Royal Family Hairy Bikers' Best of British


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You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...

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Piece de resistance!

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-Which is which?

-Lamb. Mutton.

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Baaa.

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'..outstanding food producers...'

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It's brilliant!

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'..and innovative chefs,

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'but we also have an amazing food history.'

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-Oh, wow!

-Don't eat them like that. You'll break your teeth.

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During this series,

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we're going to be taking you on a journey into our culinary past.

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Everything's ready. Let's get cracking.

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'We'll explore its revealing stories...'

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Wow!

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'..and meet the heroes who keep our culinary past alive.'

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Pontefract liquorice has been my life

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and I've loved every minute of it.

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'And of course, be cooking up a load of dishes

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'that reveal our foodie evolution.'

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Look at that! That's a proper British treat.

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We have a taste of history.

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-Quite simply...

-BOTH: The Best Of British!

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'Today, we're looking at the influence royalty has had on our food.

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'Kings and Queens have enjoyed the finest food imaginable.

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'What they ate and how they ate it

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'has inspired British food culture for centuries.'

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This is Wolvesey Castle, Winchester.

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In 1403, a great feast was held to celebrate the marriage of Henry IV and Joan of Nevarre.

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Records show that on the menu there were cygnets, capons, venison,

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griskins, rabbits and pullets.

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Er...partridges, woodcock, plovers,

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snipe, quail, kid,

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-pears and almonds.

-Crumbs.

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Royal feasts were extravagant affairs,

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as much about the visual spectacle as those wonderful exotic flavours.

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We may not eat swan for Sunday lunch,

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but many of the foods that graced the royal banqueting tables,

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from sugar and spice to meat and potatoes,

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has filtered down and become part of our great British cuisine.

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And it's a dish designed for our current Queen

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that we're cooking first in our Best Of British kitchen.

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It inspired a generation and remains a stalwart on any buffet table.

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That's right, Si, it could only be Poulet Reine Elizabeth.

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Coronation chicken to you and me.

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Mr Myers, there are few dishes

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with more royal connections than this, is that correct?

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This dish was there at the big one, Queen Elizabeth II's coronation.

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Yes, this is a dish with a crown!

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Coronation chicken, it survived from 1953 to the present day

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in many forms.

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You have it at posh garden parties or in sandwiches at a garage.

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So whether you're a King, a Queen or a bit of both, you've eaten it.

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In some way, shape or form, it's part of our British psyche.

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Paupers to princes, coronation chicken is for everybody.

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It's a democratic dish, not just for the toffs.

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It starts out with chicken.

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Take two plump chicken breasts.

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A top tip - steam the chicken breasts.

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-Then when they're cold in the salad, they'll be super-dooper juicy.

-Yes.

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-Can you pass us a chilli, please, Dave?

-Yes, sir.

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First, lube up your chicken breasts.

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In its simplest form, like my mother used to make it,

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we had this moldering tin of Veeraswamy's

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Madras curry powder in the back of the cupboard.

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Salad cream, a quarter of a teaspoonful of curry powder,

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a few sultanas and leftover chicken.

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Ours, it's quite a complicated beast.

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-You know the worst one I've seen?

-Right?

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It's a tin of condensed chicken soup...

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-Yes.

-..in a bowl, chicken leftovers, curry powder, sultanas.

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-I've got to say, that was minging.

-That's an insult to Her Majesty.

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Season the oiled chicken breast.

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-You could have got locked up in the Tower.

-Ground black pepper.

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Quite right, too. And the zest of a lemon.

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While Dave's zesting his lemon, I'm going to get on

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with preparing a shallot and some chilli.

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We're going to saute those two off in a little butter.

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This is a steamer you get from the Oriental supermarket. Dead cheap.

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Pan of boiling water.

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Bit of greaseproof in there.

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Put the chicken on there.

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Honestly, it's a good tip, this.

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If you want chicken for a sandwich, steam your chicken like this.

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It's not going to go dry. When this is cooked, leave it to go cold.

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Chop it up and that's your basic chicken for your coronation chicken.

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Just go and wash me hands.

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Now, finely chop a deseeded chilli and the onion.

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The original coronation chicken would have been milder

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than the one we're doing, with the spice coming from the curry powder.

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But these days, we like our food a bit hotter!

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This is a dish, though, with proper right royal connections.

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It was the luncheon that was devised

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after the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.

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It was a dish created by Constance Spry and Rosemary Hume,

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who were at the Cordon Bleu cookery school in 1953.

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All the royal chefs were working on it.

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-Everybody was trying to come up with their thing.

-And they got it!

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Constance Spry and Rosemary Hume were under a lot of pressure

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and they did create a belter.

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When it's done properly, it's lovely,

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but it's a much-abused dish.

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'The original recipe, however majestic,

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'was actually borne out of convenience.

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'More than a million TV sets had been bought

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'in anticipation of the big event.'

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Tomorrow, she will be crowned Queen Elizabeth II.

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'So coronation chicken was designed to be easy to prepare.

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'And you only needed a fork to eat it!

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'Voila! Britain's first TV dinner!

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'Now, back to our modern take on this retro classic.

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'From now on, it's a simple assembly of ingredients.'

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What we've got here is that we add the tomato paste.

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And then we just cook that off

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for a couple of mins.

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Then we add two teaspoons...

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of Madras curry powder.

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Now not known as Madras. It's now called Chennai.

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-You don't have Chennai curry powder.

-You don't, do you?

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Curry powder's great cos it give you a proper "curry" flavour.

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You have to use old-fashioned curry powder in this, or it doesn't work.

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Cook that through for a couple of minutes, that's all. Nothing more.

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Nothing less. You can smell, now, the spicing.

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It's starting to smell like coronation chicken.

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-And getting chickeny wafting lemon things.

-Yeah.

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-We put 100 mils of wine in here.

-That's about a big glass?

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Yeah.

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We turn the heat up slightly and reduce that liquid by half.

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Do you think that's about right?

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That's about spot-on, mate.

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-GIGGLES

-I love these little steamers!

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It's cooking in the vapour of the lemon juice. Beautiful.

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We put another 100 mil of chicken stock in

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and reduce that by half again.

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Perfect.

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Next, we add a tablespoon of apricot jam!

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This is the sweet note in the coronation chicken, remember?

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It's always a bit sweet. The background is apricot jam.

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You'll be pleased to know there are no sultanas

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in our coronation chicken.

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-No, there's not.

-We've got fresh mangoes, our fruit.

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Also, our coronation chicken is not that luminous artificial yellow.

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It's like the sunset over the Empire.

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Yeah.

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-I think that's it.

-Yeah.

-I think we're there.

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Whoo!

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It is, isn't it? Hay-ooo!

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Hadn't had that at their coronation feast, I tell you.

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That truly is coronation chicken for the future.

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It's coronation vindaloo!

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-But we like it hot.

-We do.

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'Add a dollop of creme fraiche to the mayonnaise,

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'to give it a contemporary flavour, and add a chopped spring onion.

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'Peel and dice a fresh mango, and chop the chicken.

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'Then add the spice mix to the mayonnaise.'

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Hey, look at that!

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Righty-ho. Captain mango!

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One whole diced mango.

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-That's a beautiful mango.

-It is.

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Beautiful.

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-Nice handful of coriander, Si.

-Yup.

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To that, we need the juice of a lemon.

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Just to temper that sweetness.

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We don't want to kill it, do we?

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-Juice of a lemon.

-SI LAUGHS

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It's a beautiful thing, Si.

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-Look at that, man!

-I'll go and wash me hands.

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Just a little splash of Tabasco.

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-How much have you put in?

-Just a bit.

-Look at that, man!

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-Now, is there one thing we've forgotten(?)

-The chicken.

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Yes.

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The most juiciest lemony...

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chickeny chicken.

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Never was a chicken so well dressed.

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-After all, it is the coronation.

-Absolutely.

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You know, it's a way of making two chicken breasts feed four people.

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Taste that. Are we lacking?

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No, we're not.

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Absolutely fabulous.

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Look at that. It's sunshine on a new era. Now, let's serve.

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'Finally, there's time to plate up.

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'We're serving our coronation chicken alongside mixed leaves.'

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Now, there was a very traditional garnish to this.

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It was toasted almonds.

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You just sprinkle them over the top.

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Beautiful. There we are - a dish that's certainly fit for a Queen.

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Or even a King!

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'Ah, lovely. Ah, look at it!

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'All hail the coronation chicken!

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'There are countless interpretations of this dish,

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'one to suit every palate.

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'This wasn't the first time a recipe was created in honour of a monarch

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'or a royal occasion.'

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On this, the eve of the coronation, the scene is set.

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'Whilst no dish would ever reach the cult status of coronation chicken...

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'they did have jubilee chicken in 1935.

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'Battenburg cake, to commemorate the marriage of Queen Victoria's granddaughter

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'to Prince Louis of Battenburg in 1884.

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'And for the coronation of Edward VII,

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'the new King had a potato named after him.

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'A potato! I bet he was chuffed with that(!)

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'What about one of Britain's best puddings - the queen of puddings?

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'It was said to have been inspired by Queen Victoria,

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'who was quite partial to it, apparently.

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'From one queen of puddings to another!

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'It's time to settle in for a vintage Delia recipe

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'and another commemorative dish, the Apple Charlotte.'

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-What have we got, Si?

-We've now got regal Delia

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-from 1979.

-That's going back some!

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THEY SING ALONG TO THEME TUNE

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Now I'm going to move on to another old-fashioned English favourite.

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I think this is neglected. This is a proper moulded Apple Charlotte...

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She's got to be one of the most tried and trusted TV cooks.

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She's known by her first name alone!

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Our Delia's influenced the way we shop, cook and eat.

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I've got the pudding basin almost lined...

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Ah! She hasn't finished! You never, ever get an untidy Delia.

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It's thought to be named after Queen Charlotte, wife of George III.

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It's said that she was the patron of apple growers.

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I've got a pound of apples.

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These have been sliced and cooked

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with a tablespoon of sugar and an ounce of butter.

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It's half coxes and half bramleys because, in fact,

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that gives you the very best apple flavour.

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Oh, yeah!

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Coxes and bramleys, eaters and cookers. Another Delia trick.

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Then I let them cool and then I added one beaten egg yolk,

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which binds the mixture together.

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There's the apple filling.

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We're going to do a bit of patchwork with the rest of the bread.

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How's she going to neaten that top? Delia was the best.

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..is that you put a plate on the top.

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To press it down even more, you place a weight on the top.

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Put that in a very hot oven, gas mark six, 400 degrees fahrenheit.

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Then you cook it for 30 minutes...

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-She looks very lovely, mind.

-She IS lovely.

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..leave it for another ten minutes so the top can get nice and crisp...

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-You can imagine her dancing to the Brotherhood Of Man, can't you?

-Yeah.

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-Remember them ovens with the glass doors?

-Yes.

-Me Auntie Hilda had one of them.

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-It's sizzling away...

-Oh!

-Oh!

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It should be nice and toasted

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-and crusty...

-Oh!

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-Look at that! What a belter!

-Ah!

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-GIGGLES

-Come on, Delia!

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Get it out in a oner, kid. Come on!

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What I'm going to do is put the plate on top first,

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then just switch it upside down.

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An Apple Charlotte should turn out perfectly

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and you can carry it to the table.

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Sometimes, the walls collapse and the apple puree bursts out.

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That just means you can divide it up before it goes to the table

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and it will taste the same.

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That's apple Charlotte...

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-BOTH LAUGH

-Cut the shot! It's gone!

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'Even this queen of puddings has struggled a bit with that Apple Charlotte.'

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I'm going to show you what happens to the food, but before that, I'll say goodbye and God bless.

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And now's the moment.

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Delia's still going great guns and she started out in 1973.

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That's nearly 40 years.

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I knew she'd been around for ages. I didn't realise it was that long.

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-Norwich City Football Club must keep her young.

-Goodness knows how!

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'Royal inspired food like Apple Charlotte

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'may have become part of our culinary tradition.

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'Nothing brings the country together like a royal event.

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'But while the royals were doing this...

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'we were doing this!

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'And as the royals tucked into their Eggs Drumkilbo...

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'we would be satisfied with less glamorous fare.

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'The first royal street party

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'celebrated the silver jubilee of King George V in 1935.

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'And after the war, we threw street parties

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'in honour of anything remotely patriotic.

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'Celebrating through food is what we Brits do best.

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'Queen Elizabeth's coronation on 2nd June 1953

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'brought thousands to the streets to welcome their new monarch.

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'Food was rationed but households were given a pound of sugar

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'and four ounces of margarine extra to celebrate with.'

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# Queen Elizabeth

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# Queen Elizabeth

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# Silver jubilee... #

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'The nation took to the streets once again in 1977,

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'for Her Majesty's silver jubilee.'

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It's only once, isn't it?

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I was too young for the last one. I'll be too old for the next one!

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So join in the good old British spirit!

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'Not only do street parties bring communities together,

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'they give us a chance to sample our neighbours' cooking.'

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At countless parties, there's been much drinking of orange squash,

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much eating of jelly and much cutting of jubilee cake!

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It was watched over by older and, perhaps, gastronomically wiser subjects

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who, nevertheless, hope that party tradition will be maintained

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when the children grow up.

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There is something happily British about it all.

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'The marriage of Prince Charles and Lady Diana

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'was another excuse for patriotic al fresco dining.

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'Whilst the nation had been introduced to nouvelle cuisine,

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'it certainly didn't have any impact on our street party food.

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'No, we stocked up on bunting.

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-'And Charles and Di Rubik's cubes...

-Eh?'

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If you want a good buy, come along.

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Not 4.50. We're not going to take 3.50. Not even 2.50.

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'..and joined the ten million other street party goers.

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'Food was at the centre of festivities for the golden jubilee.

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'But some thought portable party food a bit outdated.'

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Trestle tables, jellies, cups of tea and ham sandwiches

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is not what Britain is about in 2002.

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BOTH: Yes, it is!

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What's the party for, do you know?

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For the Queen's 50th... Year of being the Queen.

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'British food may have come on in leaps and bounds in 50 years.

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'Street party food is reassuringly the same as it's always been.

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'From the food of Her Majesty's subjects to a right royal feast.

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'We're heading to the Lake District.

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-'When it comes to creating a dish fit for a King...

-Or a Queen!

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'..no-one does it better than our food historian and chef, Ivan Day.

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'He's going to take our taste buds back to the 17th century,

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'to perhaps the most extravagant royal banquet in British history.'

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That's a right royal jamboree!

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What would the royals have done when they're really pushing the boat out?

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This book on the table is a record

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of what was probably the most sumptuous feast

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in the history of British royalty.

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It's the coronation feast of James II.

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His brother Charles II, the merry monarch, had just died.

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He had his coronation feast in Westminster Hall in 1685.

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This plate here shows the interior of the hall with the King

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and the Queen sitting on this great table of state.

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By themselves.

0:20:340:20:37

But they are actually sitting in front of this table...

0:20:370:20:40

Look at this!

0:20:400:20:42

This is their table.

0:20:420:20:45

-Good grief!

-Just two of them sitting in front of this meal.

0:20:450:20:49

Which consists of 145 different cold dishes,

0:20:490:20:54

with an additional 30 hot dishes

0:20:540:20:57

brought in during what was called the second course.

0:20:570:21:01

All of these have got a code number.

0:21:010:21:04

-So if we go back in the book...

-Good grief!

0:21:040:21:07

..we can find the menu.

0:21:070:21:09

Now, how can two people eat all that food?

0:21:090:21:12

Well, they didn't, because what's going on here is,

0:21:120:21:16

you honour your new sovereign and his Queen consort

0:21:160:21:20

with an array of everything, and you let them choose what they want.

0:21:200:21:24

But the rest of it is shared out.

0:21:240:21:27

Somebody on the street gets to have a dish from the King's table.

0:21:270:21:31

The King is literally sharing his food with his subjects,

0:21:310:21:35

even the poorest ones.

0:21:350:21:37

-Number 84, "Twenty four puffins, cold."

-Cold.

0:21:370:21:42

"Four fawns," Bambi, baby deer.

0:21:420:21:45

-They'd be on a huge, huge plate...

-What's a botalia pie?

0:21:450:21:49

A-ha! Well, a botalia pie was made out of little bits and pieces,

0:21:490:21:54

like sweetbreads and kidneys and testicles and things, usually in the shape of the castle.

0:21:540:22:00

-Udders.

-Roasted.

0:22:000:22:02

-Don't you like eating roasted udder in the northeast?

-Is that Elder?

0:22:020:22:06

He's got it. Elder. That's what it's called in Lancashire.

0:22:060:22:11

-What's a godwit?

-It's just a bird.

0:22:110:22:14

Bill Oddie would throw a brick through your window!

0:22:140:22:18

-Along with the puffins!

-Yes!

0:22:180:22:21

One dish I thought would be fun to do, number 98, a "Turt. de Moil".

0:22:210:22:28

Moil, in French, is marrow, bone marrow.

0:22:280:22:31

So it's a bone marrow tart, which doesn't sound terribly appetising.

0:22:310:22:36

'No, it doesn't!

0:22:360:22:38

'But to resurrect the flavour of that sumptuous coronation feast,

0:22:380:22:43

'we're going to cook the tort de moy and see for ourselves.'

0:22:430:22:47

-Si, what I'm going to get you to do...

-Yes.

0:22:470:22:50

..is to remove some of the marrow from these bones. I'll show you.

0:22:500:22:56

This is an original marrow spoon.

0:22:560:22:59

I recognise that. My mum used to have one of those.

0:22:590:23:03

It's a perfect tool for getting the marrow fat out.

0:23:030:23:07

You can just prise it out like that.

0:23:070:23:11

-Look at that!

-Beautiful.

0:23:110:23:14

They put it into a bowl of water, so you get rid of most of the blood.

0:23:140:23:19

You've got a wide end if you want to get a big amount out.

0:23:190:23:24

-My dog would be ecstatic.

-Yeah. That's right.

0:23:240:23:27

-If you look at that, it's quite bloody.

-Yeah.

0:23:270:23:31

I've soaked this for a couple of hours in water.

0:23:310:23:35

-It's perfectly clean.

-It's nice and white, which is what we want.

0:23:350:23:40

If I tip it out on here,

0:23:400:23:42

-Si, if you could chop it up into smaller pieces.

-Yeah.

0:23:420:23:48

'Ivan's pre-baked a sweet pastry case.'

0:23:480:23:52

-Put some smaller pieces in the bottom of the pie case.

-Yes.

0:23:520:23:56

The marrow's going to sit in the bottom.

0:23:560:23:59

-Most of us are familiar with candied peel.

-Yes.

0:23:590:24:04

Preserved peel is kept in syrup.

0:24:040:24:07

-It's not dried out.

-How long has that been in syrup?

0:24:070:24:10

-Some of it, maybe two years.

-Oh, right!

0:24:100:24:14

These little green guys that look like slices of courgette

0:24:140:24:18

are immature baby oranges

0:24:180:24:20

-that haven't even formed pips or any flesh inside.

-Gosh!

0:24:200:24:25

-Go on! Have a little go in there.

-Oh!

0:24:250:24:28

-That's superb!

-A wonderful flavour.

-It's not leathery.

0:24:280:24:32

-Sometimes, the commercial stuff is like shoe leather.

-That's fabulous!

0:24:320:24:38

'Chop the fruit and arrange on the pastry with the bone marrow.

0:24:380:24:43

'Then cover with small pieces of Naples biskett -

0:24:430:24:47

'a kind of dried sponge cake.'

0:24:470:24:50

There is one other citric ingredient in this

0:24:520:24:55

which, for me, is the flavour of the late 17th and 18th century.

0:24:550:25:01

Orange flower water, the distilled water from the orange blossom.

0:25:010:25:06

Oh, wow!

0:25:060:25:07

The trouble with it is that it's an amazingly strong flavour.

0:25:070:25:12

You can dribble a bit here and there. Honestly, that'll be enough.

0:25:120:25:16

It's one of these flavours that can be overpowering.

0:25:160:25:20

We've had dishes with rose flower water.

0:25:200:25:23

When too much is used, you think somebody's slipped with the eau de Cologne.

0:25:230:25:27

'Make a traditional custard with cream, sugar and egg yolks.

0:25:290:25:34

'And carefully pour over the crumb mixture.'

0:25:340:25:38

Beefy egg custard! It's not lighting me candle, Ivan.

0:25:410:25:44

-I'm sure it'll be lovely.

-It gives it a succulence.

0:25:440:25:47

-You won't really taste the meat.

-Mm. I'm glad about that.

-Yeah.

0:25:470:25:52

I'll go and stick it in the oven.

0:25:530:25:56

'Just time for us to pilfer a bit more of that delicious orange peel.'

0:25:560:26:00

Oh! Take me to Seville!

0:26:070:26:09

'After 25 minutes, our tort is ready.

0:26:090:26:13

-I'm looking forward to this!

-A tort du moy.

0:26:130:26:16

As cooked for His Majesty,

0:26:160:26:18

James II, and his Queen consort.

0:26:180:26:21

'So, is that curious combination of sweet preserved fruit

0:26:210:26:25

'and, well, bone marrow, a lost delicacy waiting to be rediscovered?

0:26:250:26:30

'We're about to find out.'

0:26:300:26:32

-It smells great!

-It does smell great.

0:26:320:26:35

For you!

0:26:350:26:37

-Very rich, isn't it?

-It's delightful.

-But subtle.

0:26:370:26:41

The fruits are fantastic.

0:26:410:26:44

-You can taste the marrow fat.

-Yeah.

0:26:440:26:46

Not unpleasant, but it's there.

0:26:460:26:49

-Yes.

-Nice. It's odd cos it's a savoury note as well.

0:26:490:26:52

-As well as that wonderful citrusy...

-Citrus.

-Yeah.

0:26:520:26:55

Citrus fruits in the syrup. They are so important.

0:26:550:26:59

What a wonderful thing.

0:26:590:27:01

If I wasn't so rotund, I think I'd probably have another bit.

0:27:010:27:06

I'll have another bit, too.

0:27:060:27:08

We could go far as a team.

0:27:080:27:10

We could call ourselves the Three Fat Gits!

0:27:100:27:13

It's rather wonderful.

0:27:130:27:15

It takes you into that engraving.

0:27:150:27:18

'Who'd have guessed that bone marrow is the secret ingredient we've been waiting for?

0:27:180:27:23

'I wouldn't go as far as that,

0:27:230:27:25

'but at the time, this recipe would have been copied across the nation.

0:27:250:27:29

'Royal banquets may not be quite as elaborate

0:27:300:27:33

'as the coronation of James II.

0:27:330:27:35

'Our monarch has simpler tastes.

0:27:350:27:38

'Whilst she's been obliged to eat some "exotic" food on her travels,

0:27:380:27:43

'when you're royalty, you just take your favourite grub with you.'

0:27:430:27:47

I name this ship Britannia.

0:27:470:27:51

'When the royal yacht Britannia was launched back in 1953,

0:27:510:27:55

'the Queen wanted it to be not just a pleasure vessel,

0:27:550:27:58

'but a royal palace at sea.

0:27:580:28:01

'In 44 years, the yacht sailed more than a million miles

0:28:010:28:04

'visiting every continent, as the Queen enjoyed numerous holidays

0:28:040:28:08

'and wined and dined world statesmen on board.

0:28:080:28:12

'As chef to the Queen, Princess Di and William and Harry,

0:28:130:28:16

'Darren McGrady travelled the world with the royal family.

0:28:160:28:21

'After 19 years, he's returned to Britannia to cook up a royal favourite.'

0:28:210:28:27

I get goose bumps every time I come on board.

0:28:270:28:30

It's the smell. It's the atmosphere on here.

0:28:300:28:33

She's incredible. I spent 11 years on here.

0:28:330:28:37

I just love coming back on board.

0:28:370:28:41

'The royal yacht could accommodate nearly 60 guests for a royal dinner

0:28:410:28:46

'or make that 200 for a meet and greet.

0:28:460:28:48

'That's a lot of meeting and greeting.

0:28:480:28:51

'All this would be prepared by just five palace chefs

0:28:510:28:55

'in two tiny kitchens.'

0:28:550:28:57

DARREN: As you sail into Miami,

0:28:570:28:59

you're in the kitchens cooking a banquet for President Reagan and President Ford.

0:28:590:29:05

There's so many happy memories on Britannia.

0:29:050:29:08

'Darren joined the kitchens at Buckingham Palace in 1981,

0:29:080:29:12

'just after Charles and Diana wed.

0:29:120:29:15

'He rose to the prestigious position of Princess Diana's private chef

0:29:150:29:19

'and remained in royal service until her death in 1997.

0:29:190:29:23

'In the same year, after an illustrious career,

0:29:260:29:29

'the royal yacht became too expensive and took her last voyage.

0:29:290:29:34

'But we haven't seen the end of Britannia.

0:29:420:29:44

'She has a permanent home in Edinburgh,

0:29:440:29:47

'where she's become a five-star tourist attraction.'

0:29:470:29:51

Being back in the royal galley is amazing, here in my chef whites, almost 30 years later.

0:29:510:29:57

I feel as if the Queen's coming on board and I should be preparing something.

0:29:570:30:03

It's not changed at all.

0:30:030:30:05

What I'm making for you is an Eggs Drumkilbo,

0:30:080:30:12

a Scottish recipe that was a favourite of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.

0:30:120:30:17

The royal family loved Eggs Drumkilbo so much

0:30:170:30:20

that it was served at the weddings

0:30:200:30:23

of Princess Anne and Captain Mark Phillips, Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson.

0:30:230:30:27

Every member of the royal family loved Eggs Drumkilbo.

0:30:270:30:30

Most the food the royal family ate,

0:30:300:30:33

during the time I was cooking for them, was traditional British food.

0:30:330:30:38

Food that comes from the royal kitchens,

0:30:380:30:41

it's all been recreated, we're seeing it come back again.

0:30:410:30:45

All it was in the olden days was local produce cooked perfectly,

0:30:450:30:50

like the Eggs Drumkilbo that's been in the family for years and years.

0:30:500:30:54

-'What did he say? Legs akimbo?

-No, Dave. Eggs Drumkilbo.

0:30:540:30:58

'It's a mixture of hard-boiled eggs, seafood, ketchup and a sherry aspic,

0:30:580:31:03

'a kind of transparent, flavourless jelly in which cold fish, poultry and meats are sometimes served.'

0:31:030:31:11

One of the things we could never do, cooking for the royal family,

0:31:110:31:15

was to have seeds in any of the food.

0:31:150:31:18

You don't want seeds in your teeth when you're talking to the Queen.

0:31:180:31:22

Whenever we prepared dishes like these,

0:31:260:31:29

we didn't take out one particular dish that we served for the Queen,

0:31:290:31:34

so you made sure everything was perfect

0:31:340:31:37

by making sure every single one of the dishes was perfect.

0:31:370:31:42

In a normal day, it would have been five chefs in here.

0:31:450:31:48

One would have been across the way, one around the corner,

0:31:480:31:52

and then three chefs working in this small kitchen area here.

0:31:520:31:58

On my tray here, I've got some nice pieces of lobster

0:32:050:32:08

that I'm just going to glaze to make it look really shiny.

0:32:080:32:13

We've got some homemade mayonnaise and some tomato sauce

0:32:130:32:17

with some Worcestershire sauce.

0:32:170:32:19

We're going to mix those together. That is perfect.

0:32:190:32:22

What we have to do next is mix the shrimp,

0:32:220:32:26

the eggs and the tomatoes.

0:32:260:32:28

Smells amazing, this. Shrimp and the lobster.

0:32:300:32:34

This size dish would serve about eight people.

0:32:420:32:46

They dig in a spoon and take a little piece.

0:32:460:32:50

The sherry aspic just stops it from drying out in the refrigerator.

0:32:500:32:55

'The dish goes into the fridge to cool and, whilst waiting,

0:32:550:32:59

'Darren can't resist a sneaky look around the yacht.

0:32:590:33:02

'Whenever Britannia arrived into a port,

0:33:040:33:08

'it was always a moment of great pomp and ceremony.'

0:33:080:33:11

Tonight, the royal yacht Britannia

0:33:110:33:14

is the centre of attention on the Huangpu River.

0:33:140:33:18

'Once off the royal yacht, Her Majesty was obliged to eat less familiar food.'

0:33:180:33:23

After sea slug, they're taking everything as it comes.

0:33:230:33:27

But what, the Duke wanted to know, was this?

0:33:270:33:31

The answer - it's a melon scooped out and filled with sweet soup.

0:33:310:33:37

'Whilst on board, the Britannia was the Queen's home from home.'

0:33:370:33:40

And smile. < WOMAN TRANSLATES

0:33:400:33:44

'Old-fashioned British food was the order of the day,

0:33:440:33:47

'but that wasn't to say it wasn't a bit fancy, like.'

0:33:470:33:51

In return for sea slug and shark's fin, the Queen is serving her guests sole mousse and duckling.

0:33:510:33:58

And instead of ten courses, a modest four.

0:33:580:34:01

'Darren's prepared only the one course, and with the aspic set,

0:34:020:34:06

'there's just time to add the finishing touches.'

0:34:060:34:10

And that, Hairy Bikers,

0:34:120:34:14

is Eggs Drumkilbo.

0:34:140:34:17

'That's a proper posh prawn cocktail, that's what that is.

0:34:170:34:21

'Next in our Best Of British kitchen

0:34:260:34:28

'we're preparing a royal favourite that epitomises fine dining.

0:34:280:34:33

'Even today, it's recreated in up-market hotels and restaurants.

0:34:330:34:37

'It's a dish that screams refinement.'

0:34:370:34:40

When you talk about the royal family you can't miss Victoria and Albert.

0:34:400:34:44

-There's a museum named after them.

-There's everything named after them.

0:34:440:34:48

A pub on EastEnders, the Albert Embankment, Albert Memorial, Albert Hall.

0:34:480:34:53

Albert Docks!

0:34:530:34:55

But we're going to cook a fillet of Beef Albert.

0:34:550:35:00

-Albert!

-Albert.

0:35:000:35:02

It's decadent. It's a fillet of beef that's stuffed with...

0:35:030:35:07

-LAUGHING:

-..foie gras pate and truffles, wrapped in bacon.

0:35:070:35:11

-Drizzled with truffle oil!

-And the sauce is really classical.

0:35:110:35:16

With your mirepoix, which is your celery, carrots, onion and garlic.

0:35:160:35:21

It's a bit of a brunoise. All these French terms find their way into British cooking.

0:35:210:35:27

-And you seem to know most of them.

-I've got that retentive memory.

0:35:270:35:31

First, I'm going to get some oil and start preparing

0:35:310:35:35

the nuts and bolts of the veggies - my bit's dead boring!

0:35:350:35:39

I'm going to chop up two sticks of celery, two carrots, an onion, some garlic and cook it in oil.

0:35:390:35:44

Over to the star turn, which Mr King has before him.

0:35:440:35:47

This is the centre cut of the fillet.

0:35:470:35:50

-Ooh!

-It's a one-kilo piece of meat.

0:35:500:35:52

And it's lovely. I mean, I confess I prefer rib-eye.

0:35:520:35:57

-But...

-No!

-Yeah.

0:35:570:36:00

There is nothing more regal than a fillet.

0:36:000:36:03

Now, Mr King, why is fillet steak the tenderest, tenderest of beef?

0:36:030:36:09

The reason that fillet steak is very tender is because it does nowt.

0:36:090:36:13

It sits underneath the sirloin.

0:36:130:36:16

The sirloin works a bit. This, not a jot.

0:36:160:36:18

What I'm going to now do,

0:36:180:36:20

while Dave's cracking on with his mirepoix brunoise...

0:36:200:36:24

The food history's fantastic.

0:36:240:36:26

The royals, being rich, were patrons of it all.

0:36:260:36:30

'As I was trying to say, slice a large pocket about halfway down,

0:36:320:36:38

'but no further, into the fillet.

0:36:380:36:39

'Then, score two more pockets either side of the main cut.'

0:36:390:36:44

This is a piece of pate de foie gras.

0:36:460:36:50

It's got in it black truffle.

0:36:500:36:52

We're just going to tuck it into the pockets that you've made.

0:36:520:36:58

Nice and neatly.

0:36:580:37:00

Because don't forget, this is a royal dish.

0:37:000:37:04

-The other addition is truffle oil.

-Mm.

0:37:060:37:09

In those days, though, the royals were rich

0:37:090:37:12

and this would be a black truffle the size of a cricket ball.

0:37:120:37:17

He'd shave it on with gay abandonment.

0:37:170:37:19

What I'm going to do, I'm going to have a nice coating of truffle oil

0:37:190:37:25

all over the fillet.

0:37:250:37:27

Of all the fancy foods in the world...

0:37:270:37:30

-Some of them are over-rated.

-Yes.

0:37:300:37:33

-You pay a fortune and a lot of it's snobbery.

-Yes.

0:37:330:37:36

Truffle, I think is unique.

0:37:360:37:38

It's worth every penny. There is nothing like a truffle.

0:37:380:37:42

The flavour is sensory. It's exciting.

0:37:420:37:46

You're one of the only people that could be hired as a truffle hound.

0:37:460:37:50

I can smell it. I can sense it.

0:37:500:37:52

I can be walking down the street in Italy and there'll be a whiff.

0:37:520:37:58

-And I'm off.

-He's off.

0:37:580:38:00

Now, that truffle oil is allowing the salt and pepper to stick.

0:38:000:38:07

That's me veggies. Leave these to molder in the frying pan.

0:38:070:38:11

'Wrap the fillet of beef in bacon.

0:38:110:38:14

'This will keep it moist as it cooks.

0:38:140:38:17

'Secure it with string and bung in a few bay leaves for good measure.'

0:38:190:38:23

I know it looks like a faff, but honestly, it's worth it.

0:38:270:38:31

A little bit of time and care taken at this point is going to produce

0:38:310:38:35

the most fabulous Prince Albert Fillet.

0:38:350:38:39

That's the bed we're going to stick the beef on.

0:38:390:38:43

The moment of truth.

0:38:430:38:45

-Bottom side foremost?

-I would have thought.

0:38:450:38:49

'To seal in the delicious flavour, brown the fillet in the pan.'

0:38:490:38:54

Mm.

0:38:540:38:55

I'm going to sprinkle some more pepper on.

0:38:550:38:58

Now, look, the key to this is just leave it alone.

0:38:580:39:02

Don't touch it. Give it a good couple of minutes.

0:39:020:39:05

What we'll do in a minute is we need that to crisp off and caramelise.

0:39:050:39:12

So no fiddling. I know it's tempting, but don't.

0:39:120:39:15

-Then we just roll it over.

-Superb, Si.

0:39:150:39:19

-I'm quite happy with the colour of that, are you?

-I'm ecstatic!

0:39:200:39:24

Lovely.

0:39:240:39:26

-Beautiful.

-Oh, look at that, man! That's a beautiful thing!

-That is.

0:39:290:39:33

Now the fun starts.

0:39:330:39:35

The huge bonus with this dish is the gravy.

0:39:350:39:38

Gor blimey, what gravy this is, guv!

0:39:380:39:41

'Add one tablespoon of flour and cook for a minute.

0:39:430:39:46

'Now for the booze!'

0:39:460:39:48

-Being a royal dish, it's not frugal.

-No.

-It's more a cocktail.

0:39:480:39:53

-Well, it's more a night out!

-It is!

-Take a bottle of cognac.

0:39:530:39:57

About 100 mil, which is a really good big glass.

0:39:570:40:02

Pour it into there.

0:40:020:40:04

'Did I say, "Watch your eyebrows, Dave"?

0:40:060:40:09

'Cos I meant to.'

0:40:090:40:11

Joan of Arc! Look at that!

0:40:110:40:14

-Shall I put the Madeira in?

-Yes!

0:40:150:40:17

Look at that! Madeira! All of it.

0:40:170:40:19

So we've got brandy. We've got Madeira.

0:40:190:40:22

Oh-h! Ho-ho!

0:40:220:40:26

Boozy old Albert!

0:40:260:40:28

Get a whisk on that.

0:40:280:40:30

-Don't want any right royal lumps in this, do we?

-No.

0:40:300:40:34

This is beef stock.

0:40:340:40:37

Bit of seasoning.

0:40:370:40:39

Ooh!

0:40:390:40:41

-Very good.

-Now, just pour that

0:40:410:40:43

over the fillet of beef, which is stuffed with foie gras and truffles

0:40:430:40:47

on that bed of wonderful veg.

0:40:470:40:49

Just imagine what that gravy's going to taste like!

0:40:490:40:53

Just pop that in a preheated oven, about 180 to 190 degrees Celsius,

0:40:550:41:00

for 35 minutes for rare,

0:41:000:41:02

40 minutes for medium rare.

0:41:020:41:05

Keep the lid off.

0:41:050:41:07

'Beef is as British as, well, roast beef,

0:41:080:41:12

'but we didn't start rearing cattle for eating until the 18th century.

0:41:120:41:18

'Before then, cows were used for farm work, so the meat would have been a bit tough, like.

0:41:180:41:24

'And after that beef interlude, sorry, your fillet is done.'

0:41:240:41:28

BOTH CHORTLE

0:41:280:41:30

How lovely! You little gorgeous piece of wonderness.

0:41:300:41:34

'Put the meat aside to rest.

0:41:340:41:36

'Put the stock back on the heat to reduce a little further.'

0:41:360:41:40

The vegetables have done their work. They're quite sacrificial.

0:41:400:41:44

We've had their love, we're going to strain them, get the good stuff

0:41:440:41:48

and throw them away, just like show business.

0:41:480:41:52

Oh! Look!

0:41:550:41:57

Look at that! That's how we want it. It's pink.

0:41:570:42:00

It's rare. It's perfect.

0:42:000:42:02

Look at the texture of that gravy. It's clinging to it.

0:42:030:42:07

SIGHS

0:42:070:42:09

Oh, man!

0:42:110:42:13

That's epic!

0:42:140:42:16

Prince Albert would be very proud to sit down to that.

0:42:160:42:20

It's a beautiful dish.

0:42:200:42:22

-A really lovely earthy note going all the way through.

-Oh, aye.

0:42:220:42:25

I think that's the truffle.

0:42:250:42:27

-For me, though, the star of this is the gravy.

-Absolutely.

0:42:270:42:32

'Our fillet of beef may cost a princely sum to make,

0:42:340:42:38

'but it's surely the crowning glory of any meal.

0:42:380:42:42

'So, from the posh nosh of the royal banquet,

0:42:420:42:46

'to dishes created to commemorate our regal events,

0:42:460:42:49

'our royal family have shaped our culinary heritage

0:42:490:42:53

'and brought us a sense of community and pride.'

0:42:530:42:57

To find out how to cook the recipes,

0:42:570:42:59

visit:

0:42:590:43:04

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food.

0:43:040:43:08

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:370:43:40

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:400:43:43

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