Bread Hairy Bikers' Best of British


Bread

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Transcript


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We believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

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-Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients.

-Piece de la resistance!

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-Which is which?

-Lamb. Mutton.

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Outstanding food producers.

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It's brilliant, isn't it?

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-Innovative chefs.

-But we also have an amazing food history.

-Oh, brilliant.

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Oh, wow!

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Don't eat them like that, you'll break your teeth.

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Now, during this series, we're going to be

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taking you on a journey into our culinary past.

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Everything is ready, so let's get cracking.

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We'll explore its revealing stories. Wow!

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And meet the heroes who keep our culinary past alive.

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Pontefract liquorice.

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It's been my life, and I've loved every minute of it.

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And of course,

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be cooking up a load of dishes that reveal our foodie evolution.

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Look at that, that's a proper British treat.

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We have a taste of history.

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Quite simply, the Best of British!

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Today's Best of British is all about bread,

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the cornerstone of our food culture.

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Bread is a British obsession!

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We eat our way through nine million loaves every day.

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In this show, we'll be celebrating bread's place in our food history -

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not just as something for our sandwiches,

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but as an ingredient in classic British dishes.

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We'll be looking at how the mighty white loaf

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came to be our national favourite.

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And the best ways of making it,

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whether that's by an artisan master baker,

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or by yourself at home when you're feeling peckish.

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-We've cooked bread all over the place, haven't we?

-All over the world, all over the place.

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We've made flatbreads on top of a Moroccan lady's roof in an oil drum.

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-It tasted amazing.

-That's true.

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We made naan breads and leavened the dough

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on the sides of our motorcycle engines.

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But we must say, there's no better place to bake bread

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than in your own home.

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Our foodie ancestors were baking bread thousands of years ago.

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And first off in the Best of British kitchen,

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we're going to show you just how easy it is to make!

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And what a cracking recipe we've got for you -

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sage and onion tear and share rolls.

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Served up with something to dip it into -

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-parsnip and Bramley apple soup.

-Delicious!

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Let's start at the very beginning.

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The beginning is a good place to start.

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When you're making bread, you start with liquid and flour and yeast.

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-He's not wrong.

-This is a rich bread, so the liquid...

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Where are you going?

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..is water and milk. It's a bit of a milk loaf.

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Heat 150 mls of milk and the same amount of water, until lukewarm.

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Now for the only other ingredients you're going to need

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to make the bread dough.

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400 grams of strong white bread flour.

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A teaspoon of caster sugar.

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A teaspoon of salt.

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And lastly, a sachet of dried yeast. Then mix it all together.

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I remember my mother doing this. Every Monday was baking day.

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She used to make baps, big flowery baps. She would bring them out of the oven,

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and I had to resist eating them. You know, I wanted to get stuck in, and she would turn to me

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with flour in her moustache, and she would say,

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"You've got to wait, son, until they're cool, or you'll get bellyache."

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Now, just see this.

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Yes, just got the chill off it.

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And just make a well in the middle, and pour it in.

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Just make a kind of a slop, use a fork for this.

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Get your hands in it. Now, once this is combined,

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this needs kneading for ten minutes.

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You will know it's coming together because it will start to form

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a dough that is cleaning the bowl as you go. I will show you what I mean.

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Look at that, see how it's cleaned the bowl?

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Now you're ready to start the knead.

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When you're kneading the dough, there is a reason for that,

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and it is to activate the gluten in the flour.

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It gives it a really lovely, springy texture.

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It's also good for stress relief.

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I use a machine, I don't get any stress with that.

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I think this little lovely is just about right.

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Put a glug of sunflower oil in the bowl,

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add the dough and rest it for about 45 minutes to an hour.

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Make sure you cover it over with cling film to keep out any dust.

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While that's rising, we can get on with the sage and onion stuffing.

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My favourite!

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First up, gently heat some oil and butter in a pan.

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You'll also need to finely chop an onion.

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Sage, the humble sage.

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In medieval times, it was thought to have very great medicinal properties.

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But, by the 16th century, all it was used for really was a culinary herb.

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But now, it's firmly on our menus.

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We need to chop about 12 sage leaves.

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It is easier to do them all at once if you fold them together.

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This recipe also works great with cheese in.

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Put the onion in the pan, and let it sweat.

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Have you dropped something on your foot? What are you crying for?

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-I'm full of onion.

-Are you having a nice time?

-I'm having a lovely time.

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Now I'm going to add

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a clove of garlic using one of my favourite kitchen toys.

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This is a really fine grater, but what's "great", ha, is that...

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if you put your garlic through it,

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it just infuses the whole dish, as opposed to

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having big lumps of it, when you haven't chopped it properly.

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Sweat the onion and garlic over a low heat for ten minutes. And finally,

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add the cleverly chopped sage and cook for two to three minutes more.

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There is something elemental about the smell of garlic, onions, butter and oil, isn't there?

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I think there is something elemental about sage and onion.

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Right, this is ready now. Oh, the last thing - black pepper.

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Black pepper with sage, oodles of black pepper.

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Once it's done, leave the mixture to cool, ready to be folded

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into the dough. You can't rush it, but there's no loafing around here!

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Your daily bread has quite a story to tell.

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Our rolls are based on a white bread recipe,

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which is by far the most popular type of Great British loaf.

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But it hasn't always been King of the crust.

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Ah, the good old days...

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The picturesque mills, powered by the breeze,

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or the gentle flow of the stream, slowly grinding flour for the miller.

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Oh, aye, can you imagine how good the bread must've tasted?

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Or maybe not.

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LOUD BANG

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Up until the Industrial Revolution,

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the problem with the wholemeal bread most people ate was that the flour

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wasn't very refined and contained lots of heavy bran,

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cornstalk and grit.

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If you wanted a soft white loaf, you had to be minted.

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Sieving out all the rough bits in the flour made it expensive

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and exclusively for the well off.

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But all that changed in the 1870s with a canny Swiss invention -

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-roller milling.

-It ran like clockwork, separating

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the grain out into different parts

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and making the flour much easier to sift.

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White bread could now be afforded by anyone and it brought about

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a golden age of tasty white loaves baked by your local baker.

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By the 1900s, only five percent of the population

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were still eating wholemeal.

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It was now more expensive than white.

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What came next would be the best thing since sliced bread.

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Sliced bread!

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But there was one problem with white bread -

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-it wasn't very good for you.

-And in the 1930s,

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the government tried to get kids

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to switch back to wholemeal.

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# Brown bread is the thing for you

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# It's better than white

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# For you'll grow big

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# And you'll grow strong... #

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Not surprisingly,

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the kids weren't convinced. They needed a little more persuading.

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During the Second World War,

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wheat imports were crippled by U-boat attacks.

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There was a wheat shortage, and so to make flour stretch further,

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the whole of the grain had to be used in the bread.

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The government banned white bread

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and introduced the wholemeal national loaf.

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It might have been good for them, but nobody really wanted it.

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As far as the nation were concerned, white bread rocked.

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When the national loaf was abolished in 1956,

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the public went straight for the white stuff.

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To satisfy demand, big business took over from the local baker.

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Mass-market production methods developed during the war

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turned the bakery into a full-scale factory.

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Only once has this bread been touched by hand, in the twisting,

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which gives the bread an even texture, and avoids crumbling.

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Then, in the 1960s, scientists discovered

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the "Chorleywood Process."

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By adding more yeast and other agents to the dough

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and mixing it at high speed, production time shrank from

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three hours to just one.

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Chorleywood gave rise to a completely different type of loaf.

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But some recipes sound more like plastic,

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with a whole host of unpronounceable additives such as -

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-Fungal Alpha Amylase.

-Transglutaminase.

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-E481.

-E920.

-E282.

-E220.

-E300.

-E260.

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-Vegetable fat.

-Dextrose.

-Phospholipase...

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But the British public loved it.

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# I'm a happy knocker-upper and I'm popular beside

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# Cos I wake 'em with a cuppa

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# And tasty Mother's Pride. #

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Today, a whopping 80% of our bread comes from the large factories,

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though less people actually eat white now than they did in 1900!

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There are more than 200 types of bread to choose from in the shops,

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and the local artisan baker is also making a bit of a comeback.

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It's all about choice, and whether it's white,

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brown, or shaped like a turtle,

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British bake it.

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Well, the sage and onion mixture is cool enough now

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to mix into our dough, so we'd better get on with it!

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-Lovely.

-Dr Frankenstein, we have life in that bowl. Look at that.

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Now, let's make baps!

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BOTH: Woo-hoo!

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Next, you've got to "knock the bread back."

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What we do, we flatten it out.

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Just pull it a little bit.

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-There we are.

-Now, spread...

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the sage and onion and garlic mixture onto the flat side.

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What we need to do is knead it, but we also need to

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make sure that it is evenly distributed

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-all the way through in the bread.

-If it starts to get a bit

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kind of soggy, like that,

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put some more flour on.

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Once it's ready, cut the dough into eight equal portions.

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Baking tray, with silicon baking parchment.

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Nothing will stick to that.

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Now, this is how to form the perfect bun.

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You've got to press down hard. When you press, it will form a ball.

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Then turn the edges under, so you get a nice smooth top.

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Look at that, a little ball of lovely.

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You want these to touch. When this bakes, it's going to stick together,

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and you tear it apart, that's why it's called tear and share!

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Cover the dough balls in oiled cling film.

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Now, we've got to wait for this to double in size.

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Which will take about 45 minutes, which gives us just time enough...

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To do the soup!

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The soup we're going to make to go with our rolls

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is creamy parsnip and Bramley apple.

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Peel and roughly chop three large parsnips

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and a couple of medium-sized onions.

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Add a glug of oil to the frying pan and

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gently fry them both for 15 minutes, until the onions are softened.

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A good tip is, if you want to liven it up a bit more,

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put some curry powder in,

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and make a good old-fashioned curried parsnip and apple soup.

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That's lovely in the winter, isn't it?

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-Now for the apples.

-A bobby dazzler! There you are, mate.

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-Thanks very much.

-And the mighty Thor was garlanded with Bramley peel.

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You'll need two large Bramleys - peeled, cored,

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then chopped into chunks.

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Chuck in two peeled and sliced cloves of garlic

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and stir for two minutes.

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-Stock?

-I would say so.

-Chicken?

-Yes.

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For vegetarians, you could, of course, use vegetable stock.

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Bring the stock to the boil

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and cook the whole lot for about 25 minutes, until the parsnips are very soft.

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And by now, the rolls should be ready to go in the oven!

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The mighty baps have risen. Look at those little belters.

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-Oh, they're mint.

-They're all puffed up with pride and bonhomie.

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They want a nice little finish on this, so what we need to do,

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we coat them with milk first,

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and then eight small sage leaves.

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To cover the eight parts of our tear and share.

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You kind of know when you're cooking something,

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whether it's going to taste great or not.

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And this has the whiff of something

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that is going to be mouth-wateringly fabulous.

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Pop them in the oven at 190 to 210 degrees centigrade

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for about 20 minutes.

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Which gives us just enough time to finish off our sloup-de-loupe.

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While they're cooking,

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use a hand blender to whizz the soup until it's smooth.

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It's quite a thick soup, you could add cream, but what we're going to do is we're going to add milk,

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just to kind of enrich it and also get it the texture we want.

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Season with white pepper and a bit of salt...

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Now, we've just got to wait for your rolls.

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-Oh, yes!

-He, he, he!

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Tear and share. Not sure I want to share.

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It's such a homely smell, isn't it?

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But that looks like the ultimate

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-homely, comfy supper.

-Yes.

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'All that's left is to serve up and tuck in.

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'Ooh, I'm hungry!'

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Ah! There is nothing better, is there?

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The sage, the onion, it's awesome.

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Look at that.

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That's kind of just warm enough for the butter to melt.

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Well, what can I say?

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-There you are.

-Bon appetit.

-Cheers.

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Look at that.

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That...is epic.

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-Mmm.

-Oh...

-The soup's fabulous.

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-Do you know what's lovely, mate?

-Mmm-hmm?

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You've got that big savoury hit with the sage and onion bread,

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and then you've got all those lovely earthy notes in the soup

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with the parsnips and the bramley apples,

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and they complement the bread superbly.

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And, you know, bread and soup are one of those things

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that we've eaten for centuries.

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And they're indivisible. They go together, hand in glove. Love it.

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But above all, this is a really good example of modern British food.

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-Food can't get much better really, can it?

-No.

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'Our sage and onion rolls are just as delicious made plain,

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'or with your own combination of herbs.'

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'And although they're called tear and share,

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'they're so tasty, you might want to keep them for yourself.'

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'Not everyone has the time to bake their own bread,

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'but it's not the only way of getting a quality handmade loaf.'

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'As you know, most of the bread we buy in Britain is made

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'quickly and cheaply in large factories,

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'using a long list of additives.'

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# I really likes bread and butter... #

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'But there's a growing movement of high street bakers

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'who, like us, believe the more traditional ways of making bread are best.'

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# ..I like bread and butter... #

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'Today's British food hero is Caroline Parkins.

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'She runs an award-winning bakery in Bridport

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'and it's her mission to get the good stuff back on to our plates.'

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'Bakeries like mine are about slow, proper mixing

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'and not putting anything else in the bread.

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'Bread made traditionally,'

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in what you might call the old-fashioned way,

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without additives and made slowly,

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and allowed to prove and mix for a proper amount of time

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is undoubtedly better. It has a better flavour,

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it's better for you, it's just a different animal, really.

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-A different vegetable.

-SHE LAUGHS

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# Got to live up Got to bake a sub... #

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'Caroline began her mission to change our eating habits when she bought the bakery ten years ago.

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'But her business still has family connections

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'back to the original owners.'

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'Jo is the granddaughter of the man who set up the business in 1914.

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'She still works there part time and has fond childhood memories.'

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We had a great life up here. The staff were all friendly with me

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and my friends came in and we used to race, we probably got in the way.

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I used to rollerskate up and down here as well!

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Jo was even here when some of the key equipment

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that gives the bakery a better tasting loaf first arrived.

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The mixer, nicknamed Gilbert, has been in use

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ever since, and only works at one speed - slow.

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I remember this one being delivered in 1962,

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and it's been going ever since.

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Old, but useful.

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The mass-market Chorleywood process mixes the dough

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for three minutes at high speed.

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Gilbert, on the other hand,

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mixes the dough slowly for around 20 minutes.

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Caroline believes this allows the gluten longer to mix

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with the other ingredients, resulting in a better taste.

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One of Caroline's most popular loaves uses spelt,

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an ancient type of wheat.

0:20:470:20:49

When they dig up neolithic sites - 5,000, 10,000 years old -

0:20:510:20:55

they find that people were eating spelt then.

0:20:550:20:58

There are husks and seeds of spelt found on those sites,

0:20:580:21:02

so it has been eaten for a long, long time.

0:21:020:21:05

This grain was regularly used in bread up until the 20th century.

0:21:060:21:09

It fell out of favour because of mechanised farming.

0:21:090:21:13

It has a lower yield per acre than bread wheat

0:21:130:21:16

and its harder outer husk was more difficult for millers to mill.

0:21:160:21:20

But in recent times, spelt has been making a comeback,

0:21:210:21:24

as it has a few advantages over modern bread wheat.

0:21:240:21:27

It's higher in protein than wheat. It has more of the B vitamins,

0:21:270:21:32

which is one of the most important things

0:21:320:21:35

we get out of our bread, and has less gluten than wheat.

0:21:350:21:40

So altogether, it's a great grain,

0:21:400:21:43

and people like the flavour of it.

0:21:430:21:46

It has a very nice,

0:21:460:21:48

slightly nutty flavour.

0:21:480:21:49

And what better way to prove its quality

0:21:500:21:53

than to see if the public prefer it to white bread?

0:21:530:21:57

We eat loads of bread. I like the white bread. It's lovely.

0:22:000:22:03

I prefer the brown, it's nice and chewy and crusty.

0:22:030:22:06

I like my brown bread, but I think this one is better.

0:22:060:22:09

I think this has got more flavour.

0:22:090:22:11

I prefer that one, it's softer.

0:22:110:22:14

With a glass of wine, either would be absolutely fabulous!

0:22:140:22:17

The white one.

0:22:170:22:19

I like the brown one.

0:22:190:22:21

Well, it may not be the most scientific test in the world,

0:22:240:22:26

but spelt did all right against the nation's favourite.

0:22:260:22:30

Some people liked the white, which, you know, some people will.

0:22:310:22:35

It's not a battle. I see it as a choice, and I just provide a choice.

0:22:350:22:42

Good bread will go on being baked.

0:22:490:22:52

It is too important a part of our diet.

0:22:520:22:55

And good bread, it's a miracle. When you see yeast and water

0:22:550:23:01

and salt and flour put in a machine,

0:23:010:23:04

mixed, moulded, weighed, scaled,

0:23:040:23:06

it's a miracle what comes out of the oven.

0:23:060:23:11

Watching cookery programmes on TV is a bit of a British obsession.

0:23:190:23:23

Over the years, TV chefs

0:23:230:23:25

have helped shape our cooking and the nation's attitudes to food.

0:23:250:23:29

Even humble bread.

0:23:290:23:31

However you make it, one of bread's best qualities is that

0:23:330:23:37

it can also be used as an ingredient

0:23:370:23:39

in savoury AND sweet recipes.

0:23:390:23:41

We're taking a trip down memory lane with '90s TV chef Pat Chapman,

0:23:420:23:47

who gave us an Indian take on one of our favourite bread puddings.

0:23:470:23:52

You'll find it in the Indian home, and it owes its ancestry to

0:23:520:23:56

the Anglo-Indian occupation of India, and here we have a pudding

0:23:560:24:00

which is called Shahi Tukri, bread and butter pudding.

0:24:000:24:04

You know, this wasn't a new thing for Pat Chapman, this was '98.

0:24:040:24:08

He founded the Curry Club in 1982,

0:24:080:24:11

so it was basically a lifelong mission to bring the cuisine

0:24:110:24:14

of India, rather than just the curry house thing, to British people.

0:24:140:24:19

Into that, I'm going to put

0:24:190:24:20

a can of condensed milk,

0:24:200:24:22

and I'm going to continue...

0:24:220:24:23

-It's going to be rich, isn't it?

-Yeah, I love condensed milk.

0:24:230:24:27

The spices that are so important, saffron,

0:24:270:24:29

the world's most expensive spice.

0:24:290:24:32

I'm going to take about half a gram of this stuff,

0:24:320:24:35

which would probably cost about 50p, and stick it in...

0:24:350:24:38

-It'd be more than 50p now, Pat.

-Oh... What?!

0:24:380:24:41

Those were the days, weren't they?

0:24:410:24:44

Certainly were. That's £3 worth now.

0:24:440:24:47

The next thing is, I'll use some concentrated vanilla.

0:24:470:24:50

This is expensive vanilla, not the cheap stuff that's diluted.

0:24:500:24:53

About three or four drops...

0:24:530:24:55

Pat Champan is interesting,

0:24:550:24:56

because he really pushed Indian cuisine on,

0:24:560:24:59

because it's such a fabulous, fabulous cuisine,

0:24:590:25:02

and he thought it was undersold.

0:25:020:25:04

I always remember the Curry Club, where you could buy the spice

0:25:040:25:08

packets, with them all blended up, and people got into the habit

0:25:080:25:13

of using fresh spices rather than bought pastes and mixes, really.

0:25:130:25:18

In goes the bread, and I've pre-shaped my bread,

0:25:180:25:20

and we'll take the bread and fry it for two or three minutes...

0:25:200:25:24

-Fry it?!

-Fried bread.

0:25:240:25:25

Lovely, crusty bread, so you get that really crusty...

0:25:250:25:28

Crikey, talk about calories!

0:25:280:25:30

And I'm going to pour the milk over it.

0:25:300:25:35

It's very, very straightforward to pour the milk over it...

0:25:350:25:38

-I bet you couldn't eat much of that, could you?

-Oh, no.

0:25:380:25:41

Here it is, straight from the oven, bubbling, golden and fragrant.

0:25:410:25:45

-That looks nice.

-It's like a golden ingot, isn't it?

0:25:450:25:49

This edible silver leaf was invented by the Moghul emperors...

0:25:490:25:53

-That's a dear old pudding, that, really.

-Yeah.

0:25:530:25:57

And it's quite expensive, but it's fun.

0:25:570:26:00

I'm just going to brush it around.

0:26:000:26:02

It has a je ne sais quoi...

0:26:020:26:04

I mean, it's nice and interesting.

0:26:040:26:06

Garnished with nuts, a bit more garnishing, a bit of pistachio nut.

0:26:060:26:11

-Look at that.

-A bit of toasted almond, because it looks so nice.

0:26:110:26:15

Sprinkle it round and make the plate interesting.

0:26:150:26:18

A little tiny bit of

0:26:180:26:20

the remaining custard. Work that round...

0:26:200:26:25

So, it's a right royal piece, that.

0:26:250:26:27

The cost of it, with all the saffron, silver.

0:26:270:26:30

-Vanilla and cardamom.

-I cannot get away with the silver thing.

0:26:300:26:33

I think people like Pat,

0:26:340:26:36

they are really food heroes.

0:26:360:26:38

They're on a mission and don't lose sight of it.

0:26:380:26:41

It's interesting food.

0:26:410:26:42

It's a fascinating pudding. Fried bread in condensed milk.

0:26:420:26:46

Perfect.

0:26:460:26:48

It's fascinating to see how the humble British loaf

0:26:550:26:59

made it into amazing Indian food.

0:26:590:27:01

But we've come to love bread from other countries just as much.

0:27:020:27:06

We've adopted breads from all kinds of different cultures,

0:27:060:27:09

like chapatis, tortillas, naans and pittas.

0:27:090:27:12

But to get the best of one of our favourites,

0:27:120:27:15

you've to go to London.

0:27:150:27:18

Britain's immigrant community have always introduced

0:27:200:27:23

new types of food into our culture, especially new types of bread.

0:27:230:27:27

And London's thriving Jewish community is no exception,

0:27:270:27:30

and there's one little bread roll in particular

0:27:300:27:33

that's made it onto our high streets, the bagel!

0:27:330:27:36

The bagel is now as much of a British staple as crumpets and bloomers.

0:27:400:27:45

So to find out more about these little savoury beauties,

0:27:450:27:48

we've come to Hendon Bagel Bakery in London, where they still make them

0:27:480:27:53

the traditional way.

0:27:530:27:55

Clive Lawton works for the London Jewish Cultural Centre,

0:27:550:27:58

and he knows all about the history of bagels.

0:27:580:28:02

Clive, where does the bagel come from and what's its history?

0:28:020:28:06

Well, the short answer is, nobody knows,

0:28:060:28:08

but the most popular story, which I don't believe,

0:28:080:28:11

is that in 1683, or something like that, the Turks attacked Vienna

0:28:110:28:16

and they were repulsed by the Polish King, Jan.

0:28:160:28:22

He was a famous horseman, apparently, and, in gratitude,

0:28:220:28:25

a Jewish-Viennese baker baked a roll in honour of Jan,

0:28:250:28:28

and he made it, apparently, looking like a stirrup.

0:28:280:28:33

And the old German word for stirrup, I'm told, is beugal.

0:28:330:28:38

One way or another, by about the 1800s,

0:28:380:28:41

they were this remarkable pre-boiled bread,

0:28:410:28:45

and then they travelled with the Jews from Eastern Europe, that huge migration,

0:28:450:28:50

about two million Jews moved from Poland and Russia and around there,

0:28:500:28:54

in the 1880s and 1900s, across Europe, all the way to America.

0:28:540:28:59

Not all the poorer Jewish families made it as far as America.

0:29:010:29:05

Large numbers of them landed at London's East End docks

0:29:050:29:08

and chose to settle in the area.

0:29:080:29:11

They set up a new life and brought a new food culture to Britain.

0:29:120:29:16

Clive, we believe that there's a bit of confusion about the name.

0:29:170:29:22

Well, in London, they never used to talk about bagels.

0:29:220:29:26

-They talked about beigals.

-Bigals?

0:29:260:29:28

Beigal was the word for London Jews.

0:29:280:29:31

Bagels is this American import,

0:29:310:29:33

and they used to spell bagel b-e-i-g-a-l.

0:29:330:29:37

So we should be saying "beigals"?

0:29:370:29:40

In London, but if you have Northern influences,

0:29:400:29:42

the Mancunians talk about bagels.

0:29:420:29:44

Whatever they're called, we want to find out how they're made.

0:29:470:29:52

And if anybody can tell us, it's Avi Avatal,

0:29:520:29:54

who's been running the bakery for over 25 years.

0:29:540:29:57

-Thank you.

-Good to see you, mate.

-Nice to meet you.

-What a treat.

-OK.

0:29:590:30:05

First, the dough needs to be shaped by giving it a twist.

0:30:050:30:10

Esaf shows us how it's done.

0:30:120:30:14

Oh, that looks easy.

0:30:180:30:19

Time to put your money where your mouth is, mate.

0:30:210:30:24

-OK?

-Not really.

0:30:310:30:33

It's like a West Highland Terrier's been going by.

0:30:390:30:42

Look at that! It's a minter, that one.

0:30:420:30:44

It's not easy, this. It's hard.

0:30:470:30:49

I'm trying to get the action.

0:30:500:30:52

'Ours might be a bit rough and ready,

0:30:520:30:56

'but Avi and his team bake 2-3,000 a day!'

0:30:560:31:00

That's better.

0:31:010:31:03

Is any cultural significance to the shape of the bagel,

0:31:030:31:06

or is it just round because it's round?

0:31:060:31:09

It's round because it's round. It's not easy to make it square!

0:31:090:31:13

-That's fair enough!

-Yes, yes.

0:31:130:31:15

'But there's only one thing I want to know.'

0:31:150:31:18

Avi, whose bagels are better?

0:31:190:31:21

They're not mine.

0:31:210:31:23

They're not mine... That's mine.

0:31:230:31:27

That's mine!

0:31:270:31:28

Here, seven out of ten,

0:31:310:31:33

but I will give you as well seven out of ten.

0:31:330:31:35

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

-OK.

-Stage two.

-This is the boiling.

0:31:360:31:41

-We're going to bake-boil the bagel.

-We're following you!

0:31:410:31:43

Unfortunately,

0:31:430:31:46

we won't get to cook our bagels, as they have to be chilled overnight.

0:31:460:31:49

What makes a bagel so special is the fact that

0:31:520:31:55

it's boiled in water before it's baked.

0:31:550:31:57

What a great thing to do.

0:31:590:32:01

'Boiling them before they go into the oven gives them

0:32:010:32:04

'that trademark chewy crust, with a slightly denser middle.'

0:32:040:32:07

-Make sure all the bagel is wet.

-They are all wet.

0:32:070:32:11

'Once they're cooled, they go into the oven on wooden boards.'

0:32:110:32:15

When you come to a proper bakery like this to buy your bagels,

0:32:150:32:18

you're baking throughout the day, so a customer comes in,

0:32:180:32:21

and wants half-a-dozen bagels, and they've been made within the hour.

0:32:210:32:25

Bagels are always fresh, always on the spot,

0:32:250:32:27

people see how you're baking.

0:32:270:32:29

-You just flip?

-Yes.

0:32:290:32:30

After they've had two or three minutes in the oven,

0:32:300:32:33

the bagels have to be flipped over and cooked for ten more.

0:32:330:32:37

That is so satisfying. It's brilliant, isn't it?

0:32:370:32:41

'It's great to see local businesses like this thriving,

0:32:410:32:45

'based on great food that's freshly made.

0:32:450:32:48

'They're the sort of places that keep our high streets alive.'

0:32:480:32:51

Yes!

0:32:520:32:55

'The bagels are ready to eat, and they look delicious. I just love our job!'

0:32:550:33:01

-Perfectly-formed, mate.

-Just enough crust, not too much.

0:33:040:33:07

-Look at that.

-No crumbs.

0:33:070:33:10

Bouncy, it's beautiful.

0:33:100:33:12

Tear and share.

0:33:140:33:17

Avi, great bagels, man.

0:33:170:33:21

It's great to eat the fresh stuff straight out of the oven,

0:33:260:33:29

but bread is even useful once it's past its best.

0:33:290:33:33

Our final recipe today is a tribute to the great British loaf,

0:33:350:33:39

and the sheer inventiveness of our food heritage.

0:33:390:33:41

It's an autumn twist on a summer fruit pudding,

0:33:440:33:47

an absolute legend of a bread dish.

0:33:470:33:50

Instead of these wet fruits like strawberries, raspberries...

0:33:520:33:56

We love summer pudding, but this has apples, pears,

0:33:560:33:59

plums and blackberries.

0:33:590:34:00

It really is a forager's delight, and it's cheap as chips, this one.

0:34:000:34:04

You start off with a couple of Bramleys.

0:34:040:34:06

Chop them into juicy chunks and pop them in the pan.

0:34:060:34:11

Along with 500 grams of halved and stoned plums,

0:34:110:34:14

and a couple of lovely peeled and sliced pears.

0:34:140:34:18

Summer pudding is an interesting dish.

0:34:180:34:20

I don't know who thought of this,

0:34:200:34:22

but I know in Victorian times, there were references to a pudding

0:34:220:34:25

which the Victorians called hydropathic pudding.

0:34:250:34:28

A bit of a kind of a healthy pud.

0:34:280:34:30

But the first recorded recipe where you actually

0:34:300:34:33

put it together like this was published in 1902.

0:34:330:34:36

But I'm not sure then if it was called summer pudding.

0:34:360:34:39

No, but I think the first reference to it being

0:34:390:34:41

called summer pudding was in a book called the Diner's Dictionary,

0:34:410:34:45

written by a man called John Ayton.

0:34:450:34:48

-Right.

-And he referred to it as a summer pudding.

0:34:480:34:52

-When was that?

-About 1930s.

0:34:520:34:54

I'm going to bring the rest of the fruit up to temperature.

0:34:560:34:59

And the blackberries, we're going to throw in later on,

0:34:590:35:02

because we want to keep the shape of these, cos they're lovely.

0:35:020:35:06

And we've got a trick to show you how you're going to get it out of the basin,

0:35:060:35:10

without ending up with an unholy mess.

0:35:100:35:13

Yes, it's a good trick, this.

0:35:130:35:15

'To turn the fruity juices into a sticky syrup,

0:35:160:35:19

'chuck in a knob of butter and 200 grams of caster sugar

0:35:190:35:23

'and simmer on a low heat.'

0:35:230:35:25

Eh, look at that!

0:35:250:35:26

Isn't that just gorgeous?

0:35:260:35:29

Now, there's a bit of heat in the pan,

0:35:290:35:31

what I'm going to do is just put the blackberries in at this point.

0:35:310:35:36

And then just give it...

0:35:360:35:38

We're not stirring it, we're just folding it. Do you know what I mean?

0:35:380:35:41

It's going to be lovely, you're going to be able to see the shape

0:35:410:35:44

of all the ingredients you've put in. It's not just going to be a big gloop of fruit.

0:35:440:35:49

That's been on now for about five or six minutes,

0:35:490:35:53

-and look at the juice that's coming out of those fruits.

-Good grief!

0:35:530:35:57

-That's not cooking, that's leaking.

-Isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:35:570:36:00

That basically goes for 15 minutes.

0:36:070:36:10

I think it's gone for 15, hasn't it?

0:36:100:36:12

I think it probably has, mate, yeah.

0:36:120:36:15

What we need to do next is to separate the solid fruit from the syrup,

0:36:150:36:19

because we soak the bread in syrup as we go,

0:36:190:36:22

and we want to pack it with that lovely fruit.

0:36:220:36:24

-That's fantastic, isn't it?

-Absolutely gorgeous.

0:36:240:36:29

And just leave that to sit, to make sure that all of those lovely juices

0:36:290:36:33

come out of the fruit.

0:36:330:36:35

Now, really, you can't do much with this until it's gone cold

0:36:350:36:39

and you want it to drain so you've got all of that fruit out.

0:36:390:36:42

So, really, you want to leave this for 20 minutes or so,

0:36:420:36:45

just to do its own thing, just for that juice to naturally come out.

0:36:450:36:49

-Quick cup of tea?

-Oh, might as well.

-Aye.

0:36:510:36:55

SNORING

0:36:550:37:00

ALARM RINGS

0:37:020:37:05

-Is it ready, do you think?

-As ready as it'll ever be.

0:37:050:37:08

Look at that, that's what happens when you milk autumn fruits.

0:37:080:37:12

You need to boil that until it's reduced in volume by half.

0:37:120:37:15

And that will be the most syrupy, fruity, dollop of gorgeousness,

0:37:150:37:20

not seen since Adam bit into the Apple.

0:37:200:37:22

Mr King, I think we're there. Look at that.

0:37:250:37:28

Sticking to the spoon like crude oil to a penguin.

0:37:280:37:31

Look at that.

0:37:310:37:32

'Before you can move on, we've got to cool down the syrup.

0:37:320:37:36

'Another Hairy hint for you -

0:37:360:37:38

'pouring it into a flat dish makes it cool much quicker.'

0:37:380:37:43

'Now, this type of pudding is notorious

0:37:440:37:46

'for being difficult to get out of the bowl in one piece.

0:37:460:37:49

'So our top tip is to line the bowl with cling film,

0:37:490:37:53

'but make sure you oil it first.

0:37:530:37:56

'That way, you can slide the cling film right down to the base.

0:37:560:37:59

'Leave plenty over, because we're going to overlap that on the top.'

0:37:590:38:03

-This is the good bit, now.

-The build.

-The build.

0:38:030:38:07

'And for the build, it's all about one thing.'

0:38:090:38:11

The bread.

0:38:110:38:12

It can be stale, it can be cheap, it can be nasty,

0:38:120:38:16

it's still bread and it works great for this.

0:38:160:38:18

You might have noticed the bottom of the basin is circular,

0:38:180:38:22

so, therefore, we need a circle of bread for the bottom.

0:38:220:38:25

Now, we need to dip this in the syrup.

0:38:250:38:27

We don't want to soak it in the syrup. It's like flick and dip.

0:38:270:38:31

One, two. This is the brilliant thing to do with the family.

0:38:310:38:36

You know, kids can see the pudding being created and crafted.

0:38:360:38:40

Yeah, cos they can get it all over their new T-shirts.

0:38:400:38:43

'Luckily, Dave's dressed for the occasion.

0:38:440:38:46

'Now we've got the top in, we need to build the sides.

0:38:480:38:51

'Cut rectangles from the bread, dip them in the syrup

0:38:510:38:55

'and place them round the bowl, making sure they overlap.'

0:38:550:38:59

-Now, the fruit.

-That looks beautiful.

-Doesn't it?

0:39:020:39:05

Just put that... Oh, yes, man.

0:39:050:39:09

Now, just push it in all the corners, you know,

0:39:090:39:12

of those overlapping bread pieces.

0:39:120:39:14

But I prefer this to a summer pudding.

0:39:140:39:18

I like the apples and pears. It's a bit more substantial.

0:39:180:39:21

That is going to be gorgeous.

0:39:210:39:23

It's just perfect.

0:39:230:39:25

'Once it's filled,

0:39:260:39:27

'we like to be really tidy and use a plate

0:39:270:39:30

'to cut perfect little segments for the base.'

0:39:300:39:33

Oh! Happy days, Kingy.

0:39:340:39:37

Four of those, we've got a perfect base to our autumn pudding.

0:39:370:39:40

Each segment has to overlap slightly to make sure you're sealing in

0:39:430:39:48

all that fruity goodness.

0:39:480:39:51

-Isn't that lovely?

-Beautiful. Right, erm, wrap it up, mate?

-I think so.

0:39:510:39:57

Wrap the clingfilm carefully over the base.

0:39:580:40:01

What we want to do is, we want a nice seal.

0:40:010:40:04

And this needs to go in the fridge for about 12 hours,

0:40:040:40:08

overnight's great.

0:40:080:40:09

It's going to, kind of, just coagulate in this big fruity mass.

0:40:090:40:13

So, to do that, rather like you would do with a patty, or a brawn,

0:40:130:40:16

or a ham, we press it.

0:40:160:40:18

So, there's a plate.

0:40:180:40:19

You can use a house brick covered in foil,

0:40:190:40:22

you can use a can of beans, or, indeed, a seven-pound weight

0:40:220:40:25

is perfect. Into the fridge until tomorrow.

0:40:250:40:29

BIRDSONG

0:40:390:40:42

'Our autumn pudding has been in the fridge for 15 hours,

0:40:440:40:47

'and now, it's the moment of truth.'

0:40:470:40:52

'We need to get it safely out of the dish.'

0:40:520:40:54

Carefully peel back the clingfilm, don't disrupt the form.

0:40:550:41:00

-Oh, it's lovely, this.

-Oh, it is.

0:41:000:41:04

'When you're ready, hold a plate over the pudding, and flip it over.'

0:41:040:41:08

Are you ready?

0:41:080:41:09

'It's the tricky bit, this.'

0:41:110:41:12

DRUMROLL

0:41:120:41:16

Thank you.

0:41:160:41:17

-Hold on.

-Yes.

-Be nice, and come out.

0:41:200:41:24

I'll hold the clingfilm, you take the bowl.

0:41:240:41:28

DRUMROLL

0:41:280:41:29

CYMBAL CRASH

0:41:340:41:36

Oh, look at that!

0:41:360:41:38

-You all right, have you hurt yourself?

-I'm in lurve!

0:41:400:41:45

THAT is an autumn pudding.

0:41:450:41:46

MUSIC: "You're the First, the Last, My Everything" by Barry White

0:41:460:41:52

That's made from wonderful British fruits,

0:41:530:41:57

old bread and a bit of native wit.

0:41:570:42:00

-Now, a wedge of that with cream, what could be better?

-Nothing.

0:42:000:42:05

-That is beautiful.

-Oh, the anticipation.

0:42:050:42:08

Look at that, that's a proper British treat.

0:42:080:42:11

And dressed with beautiful fresh British cream.

0:42:110:42:17

That's full, it just fills your mouth full of flavour and fruitiness, doesn't it?

0:42:260:42:30

Yeah. It's a wonderful harvest festival on your tonsils.

0:42:300:42:34

It's great taking a British classic and giving it a seasonal twist.

0:42:350:42:40

What better way to use some bread you've got left over

0:42:400:42:43

than in a dessert like this?

0:42:430:42:45

You can't go wrong, man.

0:42:500:42:53

Where would we be without bread?

0:42:530:42:57

Our tastes may have changed over the years, but bread is still the foundation of our everyday grub.

0:42:570:43:03

It offers something for everyone, whether it's in fancy rolls,

0:43:030:43:08

a humble loaf, or simple desserts,

0:43:080:43:12

it's an essential part of British food.

0:43:120:43:16

And if you want to know more,

0:43:160:43:18

visit...

0:43:180:43:20

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food.

0:43:230:43:27

And to find out how to cook up tonight's recipes.

0:43:270:43:31

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:490:43:51

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:510:43:53

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