Vegetarian Hairy Bikers' Best of British


Vegetarian

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Transcript


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You know, we believe Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...

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Piece de resistance.

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-Which is which?

-Lamb, mutton.

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..outstanding food producers...

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It's brilliant, isn't it?

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..and innovative chefs, but we also have an amazing food history.

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-Oh, brilliant.

-Oh, wow!

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Don't eat them like that, you'd break your teeth.

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Now, during this series, we're going to be taking you on a journey into our culinary past.

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Everything's ready, so let's get cracking.

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-We'll explore its revealing stories.

-Wow!

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And meet the heroes who keep our culinary past alive.

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Pontefract liquorice, it's been my life and I loved every minute of it.

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And of course, be cooking up a load of dishes that reveal our foodie evolution.

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Look at that, that's a proper British treat.

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We have a taste of history.

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Quite simply, the best of British!

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-Coming on lovely.

-Aren't they? They're lush.

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Fantastic. Now, us Brits are thought of as a nation of meat eaters, well, that's not entirely true

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because there's about three million of us choosing never to eat the stuff.

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And, looking at this lot, it doesn't seem to be much of a sacrifice.

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Vegetables - they're good for you, they're cheap, they're plentiful,

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and, in this country, we have the most incredible range of veg.

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And that's the good thing about our climate, isn't it? The mixture of sunshine and showers

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produces some of the most fantastic veggies.

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You might not think it, but Britain has an incredibly rich vegetarian heritage.

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We owe some great food to the cultural,

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religious and ethical convictions of British vegetarian pioneers.

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From the religious zealots of the Victorian era...

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..to well-meaning veggie revolutionaries of the '60s and the '70s...

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..and everyday families whose vegetarianism is steeped in thousands of years of history.

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In this programme, we'll be getting a taste of modern innovation...

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..and cooking up some of the dishes that sent meat-free cooking into the mainstream...

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..as we explore Britain's love of all things vegetarian.

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First up in the Great British Kitchen,

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we're going to cook a recipe that you've probably all heard of, but never eaten.

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I'm going to take you back to the summer of love.

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So dust off your loon pants.

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Get your kaftan out.

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We're going to make homity pie.

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Oh, yes!

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And homity pie was invented by the women of the land army in the Second World War.

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And it was...well, hearty.

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It was a substantial vegetarian dish

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that you could actually make with the contents of your ration book.

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Now, this delicious veggie treat is very simple to make but really flavoursome -

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it's a humble and filling British classic.

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We're going to take the vintage line-up of potato,

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onion and cheese in a pastry case,

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and give it a Hairy Biker twist

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by adding spinach leaves, cream and a hint of nutmeg.

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Now, what I've got here,

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I'm lining this deep pie dish with a wholemeal pastry base.

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I've used half wholemeal and half plain flour

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because, quite frankly, if I'd used all wholemeal,

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my pastry's going to come out like a flip-flop.

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'The pastry is really easy.

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'You just blend 250 grams of half plain,

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'half wholemeal flour, with 150 grams of butter.

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'Then add a beaten egg and whizz it until it becomes a rough dough.'

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Now, it's a deep fill base.

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Homity pie was always deep.

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So I don't even have to throw a rolling pin.

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I can feel the pastry with my fingers.

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And I just form it around the pie tin.

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Press it into the dish, up the sides of the dish.

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And you'll end up with this wonderful pastry case.

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-Look at the fibre in that...

-Look at that.

-Crikey!

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More fibrous than a coconut husk.

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For the bulk of the filling, you'll need three chopped onions

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and 850 grams of boiled potatoes.

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I'm just going to kind of break them up with a wooden spatula.

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I've got a non-stick pan, so obviously I won't use metal.

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Be fairly rustic about this.

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More chunky spuds.

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Saute the onions in butter for 15 minutes,

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then grate a couple of garlic cloves in,

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and cook for another two.

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Simple yet effective! Takes me right back to the '70s.

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I should have got me Aran jumper out.

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-I should've worn my cords. I used to wear cords.

-Did you?

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-Yeah, baggy ones, you know, for that kind of bohemian intellectual look.

-Did you?

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Big glasses like that, and alopecia.

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THEY SING: # Those were the days, my friend

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# I thought they'd never end

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# They'd sing and dance forever and a day. #

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Add the onions to the tatties.

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That's all the cooking you need to do.

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Give it a pinch of pepper and some sea salt.

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Then chuck in 100 grams of green and healthy spinach.

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Brown paper bag, eh?

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Throw me a piece of karma, man.

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See...?

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And now it's gone.

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Nutmeg always works a treat with spinach.

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It's a lovely colour, isn't it?

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'Next, chop two tablespoons of parsley leaves and stir them in.'

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The purity of curly parsley... It's beautiful.

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'To give it some richness, you need 100 grams of mature cheese, but not any old stuff!

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'Don't forget, this is a veggie recipe.'

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This is of course vegetarian cheddar. It's rennet free.

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Now, all we simply do is to pop that into the wholemeal base.

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We won't pack it too tightly, though, cos we want the cream to run through it.

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Yeah.

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I think that's enough, don't you?

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-Oh, that's tasty!

-It would be.

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-We'll put another one in.

-All right, mate.

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Actually, Dave, it might all go in.

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No, no, we've got cheese on yet...no, no!

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No!

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Right, that's fine.

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'You just can't help who you work with!

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'Grate some extra cheese onto the top.'

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And now, pop on fruit of the cow.

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'That's 250mls of cream to you and I.'

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'And it's ready to shove in the oven

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'at 180 degrees Celsius for 40 minutes.'

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And this homity pie, which started life as a frugal feast for the land girls,

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was revived by Cranks,

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that well-known vegetarian outlet that struck up in the 1960s

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in Carnaby Street.

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I can remember going there in the '80s

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and it was amazing, homity pie was on the menu.

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Everything was brown, rustic and rough.

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Cranks was opened on Carnaby street in 1961

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and by the '70s they had restaurants and shops across London.

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The name refers to the stigma attached to vegetarians at the time,

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who were seen as a bit eccentric.

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But the restaurant became so influential

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even the queen of cooking herself, Delia Smith,

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went to check it out and meet the founders, David and Kay Canter.

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I know that both you and David are vegetarian, but you haven't always been, so how did you come to it?

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Well, we were brought up as normal meat-eaters and then we both had back trouble

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and we were advised to go onto a whole food diet

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and then I started making my own bread

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and gradually we came around to not liking meat.

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We didn't like our Sunday joint so we gave that up. We didn't like chicken any more and so forth,

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and eventually we came round to being vegetarians.

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That's absolutely... we didn't set out to be vegetarians, it just happened.

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And how's the back trouble?

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Oh, much better. Absolutely marvellous.

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Good. Is it difficult to lead a vegetarian life and get enough essential protein?

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It's not difficult at all, no.

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It just requires a little more imagination as a housewife.

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Ah, times have changed -

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though Cranks did have to use their imagination to come up with a menu,

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especially as their dishes used only organic wholefood.

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They only used 100% whole-wheat stone-ground flour, not only in their bread,

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but also in pizzas, rolls, scones, cakes, flans.

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It could all be a bit of a chew!

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The wholefood chain became incredibly popular

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and made vegetarian food fashionable to eat,

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helping spread the idea far and wide.

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Can I have a fruit yoghurt, please?

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At one time, you could eat at one of their six restaurants,

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whilst their shops catered for people that wanted to try veggie and wholefood cooking themselves.

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Can you tell me a bit about wholefood rice, brown rice?

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Yes. This is the unpolished rice.

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It's grown organically and it's simply delicious.

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Once you've tasted brown rice,

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you'll never have any other rice again.

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It's got such a delicious flavour.

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Thanks to venues like this, vegetarianism moved out of the home,

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lost its eccentric image and became mainstream,

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as good food that anyone could enjoy.

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The great thing about our British food heritage is how it has absorbed different influences,

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like vegetarian cuisine.

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And our updated homity pie pays homage to the innovation of the Cranks era.

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Oh, that looks good.

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It's handsome!

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-Oh, nice!

-This looks like a super-charged quiche.

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'Let it cool for a bit, then carefully lift off the sides.'

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'Make sure you've used a spring clip cake tin.'

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-Pastry's stood up.

-Ooh!

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Mind you, I think it'd survive anything, that.

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D'you know, I'm liking the look of this. It's cutting well.

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-Eh, that pastry's good.

-Hmm.

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Eh, mate...that's all right.

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Looks like chicken and mushroom...

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..without the violence.

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-I quite like that. It'd be great with bacon.

-Shut up.

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-It's really good.

-It is, isn't it?

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It tastes good, it looks good, and it just does you good!

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I can feel the love.

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That's enough.

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Homity pie has had an interesting journey -

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from something people created to eat out of necessity,

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to being reinvented as the iconic food of the '60s veggie movement.

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But now perhaps it can simply be seen as great food in its own right.

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Up there with any meaty pies.

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Our vegetarian food heritage owes a lot to the post-war generation,

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whose focus was on animal welfare.

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ARCHIVE FOOTAGE: 'This is the kind of protest movement that young vegetarians do feel able to get into.

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'The girls are on the march against the factory farm.'

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But attitudes of the era were hard to change.

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Industrialised farming had been a hero of the Second World War,

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massively increasing our food supply at a time of crisis -

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but now it was in the firing line.

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What do you most see against this sort of thing?

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Exploitation of living creatures...

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for mankind.

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But vegetarianism in Britain goes back much further -

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and it was just as controversial and political.

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To find out more, we're off to leafy Altrincham in Cheshire, to visit the Vegetarian Society.

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It's the oldest organisation of its kind in the world!

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There's been a lot of bad press about vegetarians.

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You know, chunky knit sweaters, nutty yoghurt, mung bean-styled nut roasts, hippies.

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But there is a consistent voice to vegetarianism

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that's as passionate about the food itself as the politics.

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So we've come to vegetarian HQ here in Cheshire

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to find out about the long and distinguished movement that is vegetarianism.

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We're here to meet Liz O'Neill,

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who knows all about the history of the movement.

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-Hello, Liz.

-Hello! Good to meet you.

-Liz, I'm Si, nice to meet you. How are you?

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Thanks for coming over to the Vegetarian Society today.

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Myself and most people tend to think that vegetarianism in the UK -

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being a nation of inveterate meat-eaters -

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is quite new, but it's not, is it?

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-No.

-How far back does vegetarianism in Britain go?

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Way back. I mean, 1847 is the founding of this organisation,

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but back in 1809

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-a guy called the Reverend Cowherd...

-Cowherd!

-..I know, brilliant name!

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He founded the Bible Christian Church in Salford

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and he preached abstinence from meat

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along with a very strong social reform agenda.

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He encouraged his congregation into education.

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He provided a free burial ground,

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which was really important at the time.

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Cowherd saw meat in religious terms,

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as the ultimate symbol of the fall of man.

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He believed that eating flesh inflamed the passions

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and excited sensuality!

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He died at the age of 50, but the cause was taken up

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by Joseph Brotherton MP, who became one of the founders

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of the Vegetarian Society.

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He and his fellow veggies believed there was a link

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between eating meat and violence in society.

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All of which made them easy figures of fun for the press.

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Let me read you some stuff from the first AGM.

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There's a nice quote here from Brotherton,

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who was addressing the meeting, and he says,

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"There are two classes of persons in society.

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"One we may say lives to eat, the other eats to live.

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"I am willing to hope that we who are assembled on the present occasion

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"are of the second class. Our object is the pursuit of truth."

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Dave and I still use that phrase.

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I often say that there are two types of people -

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people that live to eat and people that eat to live.

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I'm guessing you don't put yourselves in the same class as Brotherton though.

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-No, no.

-Not at all. Not at all.

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And I'm not sure many vegetarians today would.

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-We've got the menu laid out here.

-Large savoury omelette, vegetables,

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rice fritters, vegetables,

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beetroot!

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Small vase of flowers...

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Followed by onion and sage fritters! With vegetables.

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Large vase of flowers.

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We only had a small vase at the beginning,

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but now as you go through they change the vase.

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We think this is actually laid out.

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-This is how the table is laid.

-Oh! Of course, yeah.

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Hence the mention of the flowers.

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-Mushroom pie, vegetables. Bread and parsley fritters...

-And water.

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The ONLY beverage.

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Do you think the fact vegetarianism has been seen like it is here as rather pious,

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that hasn't done the vegetarian image any favours?

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It certainly wasn't... This is in no way about indulgence.

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It is absolutely eating to live.

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I mean, I think that's something that has massively changed in modern times.

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And actually vegetarian food is now a wonderful and exciting part

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of the range of vegetarian food.

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The Vegetarian Society's run a cookery school for almost 30 years

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and the vast majority of people who come through are not vegetarians themselves,

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they just want to learn to cook great food.

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Well, it's back to school for us.

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We're going to learn some skills at the Vegetarian Society's very own cooking academy,

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run by chef Alex Connell.

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Today what I'd like to do is teach you how to make

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one of my favourite dishes which is called ocean pie.

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Alex's ocean pie hasn't got fish in it, obviously,

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but it's got seaweed to give you that flavour of the sea,

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as well as the veggie ingredient of choice - tofu.

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I sometimes think what's been the curse of vegetarian food

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is the lack of care and sophistication of ingredients.

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I'm like you, I think tofu in general is a brilliant ingredient, but you need to work it.

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Yeah, if you play around with it, add loads of flavour to it,

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you get all sorts of textures.

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You obviously have done cooking before?

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-No, never. No, it's my first time.

-Really?

-Yeah.

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It's falling apart on me!

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I just lifted that off cos it was just starting to crisp.

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-Your tofu!

-My tofu's done, is it?

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Just...it should be fine now to turn over.

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Look at that. It's lovely.

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You've got to watch tofu - it's a delicate ingredient.

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Is it working out? This is nice.

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Very good.

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-I like this recipe, Alex. I think it's going to taste great.

-Thank you.

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The tofu we're using is the smoked type and we're seasoning it with paprika and soy sauce.

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Oh, voila!

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The other main ingredients are oyster and button mushrooms,

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fried up with shallots and the seaweed.

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This really is extraordinary -

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with the seaweed and smoked garlic and the oyster mushrooms, it really does taste of the sea.

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There's a logic to this which really is working.

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'The ocean pie is made in a series of layers, starting with the mushroom mix...'

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'..which is topped with the tofu and then a pea and parsley white sauce.'

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It's a very good example of how vegetarian cuisine works with lots of interesting seasonings,

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also lots of interesting textures.

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Really good, really well thought-out recipe. It's fab.

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Perfect.

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-Have you done that before?

-Yeah!

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'And last of all, you pipe some mash potato on the top,

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'and sprinkle on some cheese.'

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I've gone for the rope effect,

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and Mr King has gone for the multiple duchess.

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Voila!

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Sir!

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-What's going on?

-Finished!

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Ready for the oven! We've finished!

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-Come here.

-I'm a bit scared.

-Come here.

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Genuinely, I am scared.

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Oh...blocked.

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Tilt!

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Do you not do that with cheese spread in the tube?

0:21:290:21:32

It's good, innit?

0:21:330:21:35

It's really good. Next time we have a class, I will show the students.

0:21:370:21:43

-It's an ice-breaker, chef.

-It is.

0:21:430:21:45

'I think we've given something back there.'

0:21:450:21:48

'After 20 minutes in the oven, the pies are ready.'

0:21:530:21:56

There is one lovely ocean pie.

0:21:560:21:58

CHEERING

0:21:580:22:01

-Look at the piping skills there!

-Oh, Mr King! Little belter.

0:22:010:22:06

Hey, that's a well-risen pie, madam.

0:22:060:22:10

-There we go, young man.

-Nice!

0:22:100:22:12

Last but not least, there we go.

0:22:130:22:16

Oh, nice, well done, that looks brilliant!

0:22:160:22:18

Well, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, so they say.

0:22:200:22:23

This is really good.

0:22:260:22:28

I shall definitely do this at home. Just fantastic.

0:22:280:22:31

I think I did it a bit wrong, cos it's still a bit not cooked.

0:22:310:22:34

I enjoyed it and it tastes delicious.

0:22:340:22:37

I think our British vegetarian food heritage, is doing very nicely -

0:22:380:22:42

like the rest of our food, it's worth celebrating.

0:22:420:22:45

-It's got a past, it's got a present.

-That's right.

-It's certainly got a future.

-Absolutely, absolutely.

0:22:450:22:50

'Vegetarian cuisine has come a very long way from its temperance days.

0:22:500:22:55

'Back then, it was all about the denial of pleasure,

0:22:550:22:58

'but now it's the exact opposite of "eating to live".'

0:22:580:23:02

Nowadays, meat-free food is good enough to entice anybody.

0:23:050:23:10

It's not just the standard of British veggie cooking

0:23:160:23:20

that's improved over the years - it's also the sheer variety.

0:23:200:23:23

One of the greatest additions to vegetarian food in Britain

0:23:230:23:27

has been Indian cooking.

0:23:270:23:29

The main religion of India is Hinduism, and, traditionally,

0:23:330:23:36

many Hindus believe a vegetarian diet benefits body and soul.

0:23:360:23:41

And their dishes have an incredible variety of flavours

0:23:410:23:45

and textures that will knock your socks off.

0:23:450:23:49

Luckily for Manchester, Monica and her mum Anita

0:23:510:23:54

are so passionate to spread the word about vegetarian Indian cuisine,

0:23:540:23:59

they've set up a private supper society called The Spice Club.

0:23:590:24:03

It's an underground restaurant that we run from our home.

0:24:030:24:07

We like to show there's more to Indian food than just curry.

0:24:070:24:10

We like to serve food that you can't really get in Indian restaurants -

0:24:100:24:15

food that I grew up on, and food that my mum grew up on in India.

0:24:150:24:19

There's so much variety.

0:24:190:24:21

There's so many different types of dishes in Indian cuisine.

0:24:210:24:25

It's nice to be able to show some of those dishes

0:24:250:24:29

at The Spice Club to some guests.

0:24:290:24:30

They don't have that concept that Indian food is so vast and diverse.

0:24:300:24:35

I think it's quite special.

0:24:350:24:37

It does bring a big smile on your face.

0:24:370:24:40

Immigration in the '60s and '70s

0:24:400:24:44

brought thousands of families from India to Britain.

0:24:440:24:48

They mainly settled in cities, and many took up employment in factories

0:24:480:24:52

or the NHS.

0:24:520:24:54

And with them came a huge diversity of regional cuisines.

0:24:540:24:59

Anita grew up in the Hindu tradition of the Punjab,

0:24:590:25:02

where delicious vegetarian food is part of family life.

0:25:020:25:06

I've learned so many vegetarian dishes from my mother,

0:25:080:25:11

and this is how I have learned and taught Monica.

0:25:110:25:16

I think this is how she developed all the interest in food.

0:25:160:25:20

Mum wanted me to be a good Indian daughter and have all the values,

0:25:200:25:23

so she made sure that I knew how to cook.

0:25:230:25:26

I'm a proud mum.

0:25:260:25:28

She makes lovely food.

0:25:280:25:31

When Anita left India for Britain in the 1980s,

0:25:370:25:41

it wasn't easy getting ingredients for northern Indian food,

0:25:410:25:44

and she had to travel miles to do her weekly shop.

0:25:440:25:48

But, since the '80s, Britain's Asian, African

0:25:520:25:55

and Middle Eastern communities have imported foods

0:25:550:25:59

from around the globe, which today we all enjoy.

0:25:590:26:01

There's just aisles of dhals and lentils, and it's really easy.

0:26:010:26:06

It's nice to see Indian food so easily accessible

0:26:060:26:11

in day-to-day English culture - it's great to see that.

0:26:110:26:14

If it's fresh, it's green.

0:26:140:26:17

Yes, it's good. ..It's good.

0:26:170:26:20

Just as well, because 13 guests have signed up

0:26:200:26:24

to tonight's supper club via social networks online.

0:26:240:26:28

Monica and Anita want to wow them

0:26:310:26:33

with the best of India's vegetarian cuisine.

0:26:330:26:36

They've planned a spectacular five course banquet -

0:26:360:26:39

a carefully crafted combination of taste, texture and colour.

0:26:390:26:43

Indian vegetarian food is really satisfying.

0:26:440:26:47

I think, also, the way the dishes are made up of so many different

0:26:470:26:51

types of flavours and spices.

0:26:510:26:53

You just kind of forget about the meat factor.

0:26:530:26:56

The main course consists of five dishes.

0:26:580:27:01

The first is lentil dumplings with a chewy texture that comes from

0:27:010:27:05

first frying, then soaking them in water.

0:27:050:27:08

So, we eat this at home quite regularly.

0:27:080:27:11

We top them with three different types of chutneys. We use yoghurt.

0:27:110:27:16

That just adds flavour to it and makes it look really colourful,

0:27:160:27:21

and it tastes really nice.

0:27:210:27:22

Punjabis can't go without a yoghurt dish

0:27:220:27:25

or else something like this.

0:27:250:27:27

It's a nice little add-on.

0:27:270:27:28

Very, very healthy dish.

0:27:280:27:30

Yes.

0:27:300:27:31

At the same time, it's yummy.

0:27:310:27:33

Colour comes in the form of pindi chole - a chickpea dish.

0:27:330:27:37

-This is a typical Punjabi dish really.

-Yes.

0:27:370:27:41

They come in two colours - white and black.

0:27:410:27:44

The good thing about chickpeas is...

0:27:440:27:47

It's not really black, black, is it? It's light brown.

0:27:470:27:49

And they come in green colour, too.

0:27:490:27:52

Mums know best.

0:27:520:27:54

It's quite filling.

0:27:540:27:56

But the star of the feast is kofta masala, made using lotus root.

0:27:560:28:00

Hi, Dad. What have you got?

0:28:000:28:04

An Asian vegetable which Monica's dad has been out to buy.

0:28:040:28:08

It's been grated, mixed with flour, herbs and spices,

0:28:100:28:14

and rolled into balls.

0:28:140:28:16

They are a family favourite, even with non-vegetarians.

0:28:160:28:20

These are the balls which taste better than meat.

0:28:200:28:24

You can bite into it and they are meaty.

0:28:240:28:27

They're absolutely delicious.

0:28:270:28:29

The secret to this kind of cuisine

0:28:290:28:32

is the layering of flavours and spices,

0:28:320:28:36

so the kofta balls are served with a masala - that's Indian for gravy.

0:28:360:28:41

It's made with tomato and cream, and, you've guessed it, more spices.

0:28:410:28:45

It's a balance of ingredients, a balance of different spices.

0:28:450:28:48

Each spice has its own flavour,

0:28:480:28:51

it has its own benefit.

0:28:510:28:53

That's the nice thing about this food -

0:28:530:28:55

it's made of so many different types of spices,

0:28:550:28:58

and they're blended together and it just creates

0:28:580:29:00

a unique flavour profile that's unlike any other cuisine.

0:29:000:29:04

And, as if the kofta balls aren't satisfying enough,

0:29:040:29:09

they're joined by fresh peas and chunks of paneer.

0:29:090:29:12

Paneer is a really typical Indian cheese.

0:29:120:29:17

It's a great meat alternative as well.

0:29:170:29:21

We're just adding this to the kofta masala dish

0:29:210:29:25

to again add a little bit of meatiness to it.

0:29:250:29:28

And a little bit more flavour as well.

0:29:280:29:30

Almost 12 hours after they first started cooking,

0:29:300:29:34

four types of lentils, seven different sauces, and 26 spices later,

0:29:340:29:38

the five course vegetarian feast is ready.

0:29:380:29:40

Fingers crossed everything turns out well and everyone enjoys it.

0:29:400:29:45

Just in time because... The supper club guests are here.

0:29:500:29:55

Hi.

0:29:550:29:57

Monica and Anita are hoping their guests' perception

0:29:570:30:00

of vegetarian food is about to change for ever.

0:30:000:30:02

We'd like to think we're taking you on a bit of a culinary journey

0:30:020:30:06

from the north of Manchester, all the way to the north of India.

0:30:060:30:10

The Indian street food starter katori chaat goes down really well.

0:30:120:30:16

It's really good. A flavour explosion.

0:30:160:30:20

Next, the lotus root balls, shahi kofta masala,

0:30:230:30:27

accompanied by the chickpeas, okra, dahl and the dumplings.

0:30:270:30:32

It was absolutely amazing.

0:30:320:30:34

I've never been a fan of okra, and the stuffed okra

0:30:340:30:37

has converted me, it's a gorgeous dish.

0:30:370:30:40

The lotus leaf koftas were delicious.

0:30:400:30:43

As meat eaters, we didn't miss the meat.

0:30:430:30:46

They were like meatballs, very fleshy, delicious tasting.

0:30:460:30:50

The highlight of the meal.

0:30:500:30:52

Far better vegetarian food than I've ever eaten out in any restaurant, I have to say.

0:30:520:30:57

I'm really proud of my wife and my daughter,

0:30:570:30:59

for the simple reason they're making people taste the real,

0:30:590:31:03

authentic Indian food that Indians eat in their own house.

0:31:030:31:08

Empty plates, a good sign.

0:31:100:31:13

No Indian meal would be complete

0:31:130:31:16

without a traditional Indian pudding.

0:31:160:31:18

I've never had cardamom ice cream before but it was gorgeous,

0:31:180:31:22

definitely have it again.

0:31:220:31:24

Vegetarian cooking doesn't get better than Monica and Anita's -

0:31:270:31:31

dishes like theirs have gone from being Indian specialities

0:31:310:31:35

to much loved British favourites.

0:31:350:31:38

So relieved everything went down well and I think the vegetarian food,

0:31:380:31:42

everyone really enjoyed it. It's been a brilliant night.

0:31:420:31:46

This is the result when you eat vegetarian food!

0:31:460:31:49

Our final Best Of British recipe fuses old and new

0:31:570:32:00

as we liven up a Welsh classic.

0:32:000:32:02

One of our favourite vegetarian dishes, this, Dave, is it not?

0:32:020:32:05

That's absolutely true.

0:32:050:32:07

It's got a bit of history and we love them, Glamorgan sausages.

0:32:070:32:11

And we're going to serve them with an onion and chilli relish,

0:32:110:32:15

a little bit of sweet, little bit of sour, a little bit of heat.

0:32:150:32:19

It's going to be really nice. So Dave is going to do the sausages

0:32:190:32:22

and I'm going to do the relish.

0:32:220:32:24

These veggie treats are full of leek, breadcrumbs,

0:32:270:32:30

herbs and good old Welsh Caerphilly cheese.

0:32:300:32:33

And King's chilli relish will give them a spicy sweet kick.

0:32:330:32:37

Start the relish by chopping up a large red onion,

0:32:400:32:44

which we're going to sweat in a saucepan for about 20 minutes.

0:32:440:32:49

Not really surprising, as they're Welsh,

0:32:490:32:52

but the sausages contain leek.

0:32:520:32:54

You only need one, sliced in half and chopped.

0:32:540:32:57

It's odd with vegetarian food

0:33:000:33:02

when people try to make it sound like meat.

0:33:020:33:05

And somehow it does the Glamorgan sausage a disservice

0:33:050:33:09

because there's no way on earth it tastes like sausage.

0:33:090:33:12

It doesn't need to pretend to be a sausage.

0:33:120:33:14

The Glamorgan sausage should stand up, be loud and proud,

0:33:140:33:17

and say, "I'm tasty and I've got no animal thingies in me."

0:33:170:33:22

A big knob of butter goes into a pan.

0:33:240:33:26

One finely-honed Welsh leek goes in there to sweat down.

0:33:280:33:32

This takes about five or six minutes. And do this gently.

0:33:340:33:37

No-one is quite sure how far back the Glamorgan sausage goes,

0:33:380:33:43

but it was first mentioned in a book called Wild Wales

0:33:430:33:46

written in 1862 by George Borrows.

0:33:460:33:50

This old fella wandered around the place. He was an explorer.

0:33:500:33:54

When he wandered through Wales and sampled the culture

0:33:540:33:57

in all its wonderfully varied ways. And he says,

0:33:570:34:01

"I put on my things, which were still not half dry, and went

0:34:010:34:04

"down into the parlour where I found an excellent fire awaiting me.

0:34:040:34:08

"The table spread for breakfast.

0:34:080:34:10

"The breakfast was delicious, consisting of excellent tea,

0:34:100:34:13

"buttered toast and Glamorgan sausages."

0:34:130:34:16

-George would have loved our sausages.

-That's good, isn't it?

0:34:160:34:21

Thing is, in the 1860s, there was a scarcity of meat,

0:34:210:34:23

so chances are the Glamorgan sausage was indeed vegetarian.

0:34:230:34:27

My leeks are just about done.

0:34:340:34:36

In this bowl I'll put a goodly quantity of breadcrumbs.

0:34:360:34:40

I've got to say some because I'm going to dust

0:34:410:34:44

the sausages in egg and breadcrumbs before I fry them.

0:34:440:34:46

I'm going to let these onions sweat.

0:34:460:34:48

They're going to go limp and slightly coloured

0:34:480:34:51

but we don't want them caramelised.

0:34:510:34:53

We just want them to be just sweated nicely.

0:34:530:34:56

And then I'm going to add one lovely red chilli, seeds as well.

0:34:570:35:02

Vegetarian food doesn't have to be bland.

0:35:040:35:07

You can really make it lovely with punchy flavours.

0:35:070:35:11

That's the vegetarian sort of food I like.

0:35:110:35:14

It's such a lovely recipe, this. Really, really, really tasty.

0:35:150:35:19

As well as the chilli,

0:35:210:35:22

I'm going to chop two cloves of garlic to add to my relish.

0:35:220:35:25

The sausages are going to get a lovely herby flavour from

0:35:290:35:33

two tablespoons of chopped parsley and a tablespoon of

0:35:330:35:36

chopped thyme leaves.

0:35:360:35:37

What I'll do is take these stalks of thyme and strip the leaves off.

0:35:390:35:45

-And the cheese. It's just superb.

-Look at that Caerphilly.

0:35:450:35:49

That's sincerely one of my favourite cheeses in the world.

0:35:490:35:52

-Let's just have a slither, eh?

-Oh, yeah.

0:35:520:35:55

Thanks, mate. Can't resist this.

0:35:550:35:59

Oh, man.

0:36:000:36:02

The British Isles produce some of the finest cheeses in the world,

0:36:020:36:05

bar none.

0:36:050:36:07

Absolutely superb.

0:36:070:36:09

I'm just grating this quite finely into the breadcrumbs,

0:36:110:36:15

parsley and the thyme.

0:36:150:36:16

Although these sausages are great with Caerphilly,

0:36:190:36:22

they originally used Glamorgan cheese made from the milk

0:36:220:36:26

of local cows.

0:36:260:36:27

However by 1920, Glamorgan cows were thought to be extinct.

0:36:270:36:31

But in 1979, an East Sussex farmer put his herd up for sale,

0:36:320:36:36

which contained Glamorgan Castle.

0:36:360:36:39

Glamorgan Council bought the cattle

0:36:390:36:42

and started to save the Glamorgan cow from extinction.

0:36:420:36:45

There has never been enough milk to produce

0:36:450:36:48

Glamorgan cheese again

0:36:480:36:49

but its close relative, Caerphilly, is available to us all

0:36:490:36:53

and it's absolutely excellent to make Glamorgan sausages.

0:36:530:36:57

I'll mix that together, the cheese, the breadcrumbs,

0:36:570:37:00

the parsley and thyme.

0:37:000:37:03

Let's look at these onions because that's how we want them.

0:37:030:37:06

Nice, soft, fabulous.

0:37:060:37:08

Now it's time to add the garlic and the chilli.

0:37:080:37:11

And this is a fiery little number this chilli,

0:37:110:37:14

so I'm only going to put half in.

0:37:140:37:18

And then we're just going to saute that off for about five minutes.

0:37:180:37:22

# In the cool of the evening when everything... #

0:37:220:37:26

Separate the yolks and whites of two eggs into different bowls.

0:37:260:37:30

Then add a teaspoon of English or Welsh mustard to the yolks.

0:37:300:37:34

Unlike any sausage, give it plenty of seasoning.

0:37:340:37:37

-Mix the yolks together a bit...

-Now let's start the build.

0:37:400:37:45

Put those softened, cooled leaks in there

0:37:450:37:48

and now the egg yolk, mustard and seasoning.

0:37:480:37:51

Mix that together.

0:37:550:37:57

And this is your vegetarian sausage meat, if such a thing exists.

0:37:570:38:02

While Dave is mixing that,

0:38:040:38:05

I'm going to add 75 grams of Muscovado sugar to the relish.

0:38:050:38:09

Now, that's going to be very, very sweet that relish,

0:38:100:38:14

so to temper that sweetness,

0:38:140:38:15

we're going to add five tablespoons of white wine vinegar.

0:38:150:38:20

We're going to give that a good mix round

0:38:220:38:24

and cook for a further five to ten minutes.

0:38:240:38:27

What I've done here, I've worked that mixture into like a dough

0:38:300:38:34

and it kind of looks like psychedelic sausage meat.

0:38:340:38:37

Wow!

0:38:370:38:38

Cut it into eight equal portions

0:38:380:38:41

and roll each piece into a sausage shape.

0:38:410:38:44

If you're going to call it a sausage,

0:38:450:38:47

let's have it looking like a sausage,

0:38:470:38:50

not a rissole.

0:38:500:38:51

Look at that.

0:38:510:38:53

I want George Burrows to be proud of that.

0:38:530:38:57

We can't be sure what we're making is the same thing that

0:38:570:38:59

George Burrows ate back in 1862 but what we do know

0:38:590:39:04

is that it was very popular in that great era of meat-free cooking.

0:39:040:39:09

No, not the '60s, the Second World War.

0:39:090:39:12

What you should do at this stage is put them in the fridge

0:39:120:39:15

to firm up for an hour but to be frank, I can't wait.

0:39:150:39:19

Remember those egg whites?

0:39:200:39:23

Lightly whisk them but don't go too hard or else they'll go frothy.

0:39:230:39:26

We're going to use them to coat the sausages in breadcrumbs.

0:39:260:39:30

Take your sausage.

0:39:300:39:32

Roll out in the egg white and then roll it in the breadcrumbs.

0:39:320:39:36

They're lovely, quite dense. They're not lacking in flavour.

0:39:370:39:41

And don't be fooled by their appearance.

0:39:450:39:48

There's far more to these than a croquette.

0:39:480:39:51

We're going to be shallow frying these little lovelies

0:39:530:39:56

so heat some oil over a medium heat.

0:39:560:39:57

To check it's ready, chuck in a few breadcrumbs and see if they sizzle.

0:39:570:40:01

That's all right, isn't it?

0:40:030:40:05

That's it.

0:40:080:40:09

And don't start moving these around until you've got a nice,

0:40:090:40:13

golden crust. There you are - a pan of Glamorgan bangers.

0:40:130:40:16

Right, I'm going to get my chilli and onion relish out.

0:40:160:40:19

Turn the sausages every now and then until they're cooked through.

0:40:290:40:32

It should only take around ten minutes.

0:40:320:40:35

Do you know, there might be something to this vegetarian lark.

0:40:350:40:38

There might be, yeah.

0:40:380:40:41

A lack of meat.

0:40:410:40:43

I reckon with a little imagination, we're not going to miss it.

0:40:430:40:46

Let's give them a little drain.

0:40:460:40:49

They've held together brilliantly.

0:40:550:40:58

There you are. Eight to the pound.

0:40:580:41:01

Good old-fashioned stuff.

0:41:010:41:03

Look at that beauty.

0:41:090:41:10

Home-made Glamorgan sausages with chilli and onion relish.

0:41:100:41:14

-A vegetarian dish with heritage.

-Indeed that.

0:41:140:41:17

They're nice and crispy, aren't they?

0:41:190:41:21

Look at that.

0:41:230:41:25

Well, if you come home to that,

0:41:350:41:38

you'd certainly know that there was a welcome the valleys.

0:41:380:41:41

Hear hear to that.

0:41:410:41:43

It's kind of cheese, pickles and hot sausagey things.

0:41:430:41:48

It's a great meal.

0:41:480:41:50

Well, this still remains one of our favourite vegetarian dishes.

0:41:510:41:56

Now that's as good as any meaty banger.

0:41:580:42:01

They're really simple and they make a great snack or meal,

0:42:010:42:04

whether you use our relish or go old school with mustard or ketchup.

0:42:040:42:08

In a country that was once the heaviest consumer of meat in Europe,

0:42:140:42:19

embracing vegetarianism was always going to be a lengthy struggle.

0:42:190:42:25

But in the process, it made us all think about what goes into our food

0:42:250:42:28

and broadened our horizons on tastes, textures and ingredients.

0:42:280:42:33

And with the new era of inspiring, modern veggie food

0:42:330:42:37

and delicious home cooking, we shouldn't forget the classics

0:42:370:42:40

that fed our curiosity, like homity pie and Glamorgan sausages.

0:42:400:42:45

Whether or not you embrace the philosophy,

0:42:470:42:50

it's a tradition with some seriously tasty grub.

0:42:500:42:53

And British cooking is all the better for it.

0:42:560:42:59

Visit:

0:42:590:43:04

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food.

0:43:040:43:08

And to find how to cook up tonight's recipes.

0:43:080:43:12

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:170:43:19

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:190:43:21

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