British Waterways Hairy Bikers' Best of British


British Waterways

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Transcript


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You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...

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-Piece de resistance.

-Ah, nice!

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-Now which is which?

-BOTH:

-Lamb. Mutton.

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Baa!

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'..outstanding food producers...'

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It's brilliant, isn't it?

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'..and innovative chefs...'

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-'but we also have an amazing food history.'

-Aw, brilliant!

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Aw, wow!

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Don't eat them like that! You'll break your teeth!

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'Now during this series,

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'we're going to be taking you on a journey into our culinary past.'

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It's all ready, so let's get cracking.

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'We'll explore its revealing stories.'

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'And meet the heroes who keep our culinary past alive.'

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Pontefract Liquorice has been my life

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and I have loved every minute of it.

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'And be cooking up a load of dishes

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'that reveal our foodie evolution.'

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Look at that, that's a proper British treat.

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We have...a taste of history.

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-Quite simply...

-BOTH:

-The Best Of British!

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Today's show is a celebration of our waterways.

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We've got 2,200 miles of them in the UK.

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As well as being beautiful,

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historically, they were an important source of grub.

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We've been getting food from our waterways for centuries.

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From shooting ducks to fishing, even harvesting watercress.

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From the poor old poacher's tickled trout

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to the mega-posh aristocratic fishing parties,

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Britain's waterways have given everybody

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nutritional food for thousands of years.

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# And if you take our advice #

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# There's nothing so nice

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# As messing about on the river. #

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We've been fishing for our supper since the Stone Age.

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But it was in the 6th Century

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when the Church banned meat on fast days and Fridays

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that fish became a regular feature in our diets.

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Fish on a Friday!

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BELL TOLLS

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By the Middle Ages, monks were stocking their moats and ponds

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with freshwater fish,

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which they served as an alternative to meat.

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They soon became inventive chefs,

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salting, smoking and drying their catch,

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creating culinary delights

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often by cooking a single fish in three different ways -

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The tail fried, the head boiled and the middle roasted.

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What started as fodder for fast days soon became the food of feasts.

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The nobility filled their castle moats and ponds

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with barbel, crayfish, chub, eel,

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dace, lamprill, lampern, perch, pike, pimpernel

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and tench from the local rivers.

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If you really wanted to flash your cash,

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you had to have an angler on your staff.

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Our waterways have provided us with more than just what's beneath the water.

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Our feathery friends who float on the surface

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have also fed us throughout history.

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In the Best Of British kitchen, we're cooking up

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a traditional wild roast duck

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with Bramley apple stuffing and sherry gravy.

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Oh, that sounds absolutely quacking!

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Ever since I was a little 'un, and I still do it now,

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I go down to the pond, the lake or the river bank with my bag of bread

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and have a pleasant half hour feeding the ducks.

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-Now, it's these beauties' chance to feed us!

-It's true.

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We're doing WILD ducks!

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That's what they look like with their kit off!

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That's our English mallard. A treasure of our English waterways.

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We've been eating those for 2,000 years.

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This works perfectly well with the ducks

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you buy from your butcher or the supermarket.

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Actually, the quantities will work just as well.

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We have three little mallards here,

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just one big fat duck from the supermarket,

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use this stuffing, satisfaction guaranteed.

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They look a bit scrawny,

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but what meat you get is good. It's rich. It's tasty.

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We'll do a mega-stuffing for the ducks.

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-I think we better get on.

-We should, mate.

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-Some oil in there.

-Could you pass me hazelnuts, Dave, please?

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These hazelnuts are part of the stuffing.

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I'm going to roughly chop them. It's not easy with the hazelnut.

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If you don't want to chop them by hand,

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you could put the hazelnuts in a plastic bag and bash them

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with a rolling pin,

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or just give them a quick whizz in a food processor.

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This is three slices of bread. All good stuffing contains bread.

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This isn't going to be crumbs, it's not going to be croutons,

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it's going to be little cubes.

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The bread cubes are fried until golden brown in oil

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and a little butter.

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Look at these. These are coming up lovely!

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Beautiful. Before that bread's completely cooked,

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a couple of teaspoons of chopped fresh rosemary.

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That frying's releasing all the flavour.

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Things will gravitate towards this bowl

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in the construction of the stuffing.

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First in is the rosemary bread cubes.

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I want to take some hazelnuts and put them in the pan

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that we have just fried the bread and the rosemary in.

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We want to toast those off.

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The thing about nuts is, keep an eye on them.

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We want them to toast, we don't want them to burn.

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If you burn them, they get really bitter

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and that's going to murder those lovely flavours in our stuffing.

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So keep any eye on them.

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That's a lovely stuffing. It's very nice with pork.

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It's very old-fashioned, isn't it?

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It's a really good, old-fashioned stuffing.

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Finely chop the onions and garlic

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and then soften in butter for three to four minutes.

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And now for the magic ingredient! Can you pass us an apple, please?

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-Bramley or eating?

-Bramley, please.

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-Incoming!

-Thank you.

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We have been eating ducks for a long time.

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It's always tradition to eat them with some fruity sauce.

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We've been doing it for years.

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I'm going to quarter a Bramley apple.

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Then we'll cut it into chunks.

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And that is also going to go into the stuffing.

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Everybody's got their own culture of fruit eating with duck.

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We have duck with apple and peas.

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Polish people have it with red cabbage and sweet sultanas.

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And the Italians have been known to have it with duck and cherry.

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French have the duck a l'orange.

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Iranians have duck with pomegranate and walnuts.

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It's not just duck has a history in our country, apples have as well.

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In our sceptred isle,

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there are more than 2,000 varieties of apples.

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That's a different type of apple for every day for six years!

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Cook the apple with the onion and garlic until soft and squishy.

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It smells fabulous.

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I love the way the apple goes so well with fatty meat

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like apple and belly pork or apple and duck.

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It's the sharpness of apples like Bramleys that offset

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the grease and the fat in the meat.

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It's that acidity. It cuts straight through it.

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-We will add some parsley and the zest of an orange!

-Oh!

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Mrs Worthington, put your slippers on,

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you're in for a treat.

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Don't you wish you had something more exciting

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than fish fingers for your tea now?!

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-Put that fish finger sandwich down.

-Go out and shoot a duck!

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Only joking! Stay in and watch this!

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Stick the apple, onion and garlic

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in with the hazelnuts and the golden brown bread cubes.

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Parsley in stuffing is great

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and the orange zest will give it a zingy citrus kick.

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The hot apple will begin to make those golden croutons go soggy.

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That will all bake in the duck.

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Now it's time to stuff a duck!

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-It's not every day you get to stuff a duck.

-They are only little.

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You can have one duck per person.

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Proper old-fashioned, earthy lovely flavours.

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In the tin, I have made a bed of sliced onions.

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It's like a trivet for the ducks to rest

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on and that will give us really good gravy.

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-Really nice.

-The problem with wild ducks

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and a lot of wild game is it going dry.

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With this, we are using butter and bacon.

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Don't be shy with the butter!

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-Beautiful.

-You will not be dry!

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You will be juicy!

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You are full of stuffing!

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You are covered in butter and now you are wrapped in bacon!

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You will be plump and juicy!

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On that note, to ensure this, we only cook it for 35 minutes.

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It's best eaten slightly on the pink side,

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you overcook this, it will be like a doggy chew.

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Place these in a pre-heated oven, a hot oven,

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about 200-220 degrees Celsius.

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It's a hot oven, it's a short, sharp shock of a cook!

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-A short time later...

-35 minutes to be exact.

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-It's ready.

-Oh, lovely.

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Let's get them out. Time to make the gravy.

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Put the roasting tin on the hob and stir in a little of the flour.

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Any flour will do.

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Then scrape up all those lovely crispy bits, and the onions.

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Fruity flavours go well with duck and game.

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I'm going to put some sherry in the gravy

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and let that bubble for a few minutes

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and then top it up with chicken stock.

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-Marvellous.

-Oh yeah, that's lovely.

-Isn't it?!

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Dave, do you ever find gravy really hypnotic?

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Mmm, gravy!

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Snap out if it, we've gotta crack on and make this gravy silky smooth.

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Saucepan for the sauce.

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-Sieve for the lumps.

-Look at that.

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That's great gravy.

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I'll put that on a low light now to cook a bit more.

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-Shall we have a tasting platter?

-I think so, me old mucker.

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A bit of crispy bacon. Never go wrong.

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-That's cooked nice.

-A little spoon full of the gravy.

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Not forgetting some of that wonderful stuffing.

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You know what, for me, I think the stuffing's the best bit.

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I thought that since I was a kid!

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Wow! I'll agree with that.

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-That's very good.

-That stuffing is great.

-Oh yes!

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The flavour of that duck breast is really big.

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It's a very different flavour. It's a different texture.

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It's in the wild. It's a wild animal. It works hard.

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The flavour is a bit deeper and it's a lot more gamier.

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Which justifies that wonderful apple and herby stuffing.

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Really, that on a plate does depict

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the British countryside and the waterways.

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We have the wild mallard from our rivers,

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the apples from our orchards, the hazelnuts,

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the rosemary, the herbs.

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-It really is kind of Britain on a plate, that.

-It is.

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And very proud we are of it, too.

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To make our Hairy Bikers' roast duck

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with apple and rosemary stuffing and sherry gravy,

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you can use any shop-bought duck.

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And although we used Bramleys,

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any nice tangy variety of English apple will do the job just as well.

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Now we're on the road to try our hand at fly-fishing

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on one of our finest waterways, the River Usk in Wales.

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The Glanusk estate is home to Tiggy Pettifer and her family.

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They've been fishing for their supper for generations.

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Growing up by the river, Tiggy learnt to fish as a young girl

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and is now a fly-fishing instructor.

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We're looking forward to improving our techniques

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with some top tips from a master!

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-Good morning.

-We're going fishing!

-We have so looked forward to this.

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Well, a bit of screaming reels, hopefully.

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Let's say our casting is not the most delicate.

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We're what's known as...

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We fish quite a lot, but we're a pair of thrashers.

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You won't be by the time I have finished with you!

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Yes, we need to know.

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As far as casting's concerned, for us, it's 10-to-2,

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10-to-2, put their eye out!

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That's a different technique than I know, but we'll give it a go.

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-We do lose a lot of fish!

-Yes.

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We have a lot of stories, but maybe not so many in the pan.

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The estate has relied on fishing to keep it fed for centuries

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and there's a room dedicated to the family's fishy history.

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With all great grandpas, his stags, and his fish, and his rods.

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If you could sum it up, what is it about fishing that you love?

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It is the most exciting thing.

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It's the anticipation of every single cast.

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You think, "This is the one! Here we go, here we go." So exciting.

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It's the most lovely feeling.

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What I love about fly-fishing

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-is you get to eat what you catch.

-Yeah, always.

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I love that. You take it to the table. You eat it.

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That is the full cycle which has gone on since prehistoric times.

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Family tradition means every fish caught is noted down

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and over the years the estate has had some impressive trophies.

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My grandfather caught 58 trout in one day.

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-It's the all-time record.

-58 trout?!

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To his own rod, him.

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They go all the way back to 1904.

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-The fishing is in your blood?

-It really is.

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One's been incredibly lucky to have a mother and a grandmother

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who both stalked fish and Dad was up for his girls

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doing exactly the same as the boys.

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So one was - it was always assumed we would want to.

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I think what's fascinating about this,

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it's a reflection of how many fish were caught for table, to eat.

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-Yes.

-Is that how the estate fed itself?

-Very much so.

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The whole estate was a community to itself.

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It had its own dairy, creamery.

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Mum can remember making the cream and the butter.

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So the whole estate was sustainable within a community

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and everybody fed everybody.

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Thanks for showing...

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-I'm itching to get on the river.

-Can we go fishing?!

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Yes, let's go catch fish!

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Ooh, I'm so excited.

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-It's time to get suited...

-And booted.

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-Marvellous!

-Lovely.

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-You look good.

-So do you. Hunter gatherer.

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Come and meet Stuart.

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-He's got some rods then we will head on down.

-Morning.

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-Very nice to meet you.

-Very nice to meet you.

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We have two rods for you. Both identical.

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-A standard river trout rod.

-That's lovely.

-Perfect.

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How long have you been fishing this river, Stuart?

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I think I have fished it for 40 seasons. As near as damn it!

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'Right we've got the best guides in the business,

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'and we've got all the right gear...

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'But no idea! And Dave's caught something already.'

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OK, Dave, creep in.

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But we're not just here to catch dinner,

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we're here to learn.

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-Rod tip down. Relax.

-OK.

-We're fishing.

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Well done. That's great.

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-That's the best cast yet.

-Very nice, Dave.

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'Fly-fishing takes years of practice to become a master caster.

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'Tiggy and Stuart's knowledge of this river is amazing.'

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There was a reasonable fish rising there.

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'And up until today I thought I knew what I was doing.'

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-Don't...

-Sorry!

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Don't drop it behind you.

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The art of fly-fishing has been around for centuries.

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The idea is to trick the trout into believing that your hook

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is actually an insect that has landed on the water.

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There's a little rise.

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That's when the trouties have come up

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and they are sucking the flies off the top

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and then he's dropping back down again.

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'It appears as if I've got the hang of it.'

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-You in?

-Oh aye!

-God love him!

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You can't eat those, they're too small!

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It's another monster.

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We are going to catch one.

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-We'll beat them.

-That's five!

-Five, mate.

-Yeah.

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This is absolute heaven.

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Izaac Walton wrote in his The Complete Angler

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"Time spent fly-fishing isn't deducted from the sum total

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"of your life, so two years on the river means you have an extra two."

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In that case I shall live to 200!

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Fishing isn't just a passion of us Hairy Bikers,

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it's a national obsession.

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And officially it's Britain's most popular pastime.

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But it was the Victorians who made fishing fashionable fun for all,

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for posh and working classes alike.

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And provided the British with

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the perfect excuse to get out of the house.

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There's nothing like it, nothing in the world.

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But it's the sense of competition that's half the fun.

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This is a float tube.

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It's a sophisticated inner tube from a lorry tyre.

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With a tube, you're so low down, they come in very close to you.

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You can get two or three shots at them.

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It's just absolutely addictive.

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So pike, carp and other coarse fish

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favoured by those foodie monks

0:19:570:19:59

of the Middle Ages now help us prove our manliness...

0:19:590:20:02

What a lovely fish.

0:20:050:20:07

'Only an expert can bring in his fish this way!'

0:20:070:20:09

..and our womanliness!

0:20:090:20:12

I think women are better than men at fishing.

0:20:130:20:16

Women have far more patience and tenacity,

0:20:160:20:19

and so, consequently, they stand a better chance of catching a fish.

0:20:190:20:22

Now relax. You can have a jolly...

0:20:240:20:25

SI LAUGHS

0:20:250:20:27

And it appears that my guide's feminine touch is paying off.

0:20:270:20:31

Dave!

0:20:310:20:33

Eat your heart out, honey!

0:20:330:20:36

You got the little ones, but we got the big one!

0:20:360:20:40

-Well done, Si.

-Thank you, darling.

0:20:410:20:44

Well dabtastic!

0:20:440:20:45

-Well done, mate.

-Thanks, mate.

0:20:450:20:47

'Right. Job done. Let's get cooking!'

0:20:470:20:50

Wow! Hunter-gathers provided dinner. You're good at this, you.

0:20:500:20:54

-Well, it's just quite fun, isn't it?

-It's fantastic.

0:20:540:20:57

-There's not many food sensations beat this, is there?

-No.

0:20:570:21:01

The river, catch the trout, put it on a fire, eat it.

0:21:010:21:05

-Can you get a better lunch?

-No, you can't beat it.

0:21:050:21:09

Here's to you, boys.

0:21:090:21:10

Well done. Yummy, yummy!

0:21:100:21:14

-That's good.

-There's something elemental about this.

0:21:140:21:18

At some point in our evolution, we have all done this.

0:21:180:21:21

Fished, cooked it, eaten it. Brilliant.

0:21:210:21:26

Mate, I've got to hand it to you. I got five, but they were so small.

0:21:260:21:32

Today, you are the man!

0:21:320:21:35

-Tig?

-Yes, Si.

-Shall we tell them?

0:21:350:21:39

Lunch has come from two pools up there two nights ago!

0:21:390:21:43

You mean, you planted them?

0:21:430:21:45

Well, I didn't!

0:21:470:21:50

I just held the rod.

0:21:500:21:53

Bless you!

0:21:530:21:54

We had to have something just in case we didn't have any luck.

0:21:540:21:57

I have learnt more the past two hours

0:21:570:22:01

than I have in 30 years of thrashing the water on my own!

0:22:010:22:04

-Does life get any better than this?

-Not really.

0:22:040:22:07

'Now us Brits have a voracious appetite for TV cooking programmes.

0:22:130:22:18

'And we Hairy Bikers owe our love of food to those classic TV chefs

0:22:180:22:21

'who helped to change British eating habits,

0:22:210:22:24

'and who inspired us as a nation to get into the kitchen.'

0:22:240:22:28

'So we're going to catch up

0:22:280:22:29

'with a legend who hit our screens in the '80s.

0:22:290:22:32

'He loved the British waterways and their produce as much as we do.'

0:22:320:22:36

-Fancy a bit of Floyd? One of the old ones - Floyd On Fish.

-Yes.

0:22:360:22:41

Brilliant.

0:22:440:22:46

Lovely!

0:22:460:22:48

FLOYD'S THEME TUNE PLAYS

0:22:480:22:50

That theme tune, when this came on you knew you were in for a treat.

0:22:540:22:59

-You did.

-He made cooking fun. He had a good time. He had a good drink!

0:22:590:23:06

Look at the size of that mouth.

0:23:060:23:08

It seems to be a terrible thing to do to your family,

0:23:080:23:10

but I always wanted my mother-in-law on one of my programmes

0:23:100:23:13

and it's taken me 25 years to catch her actually!

0:23:130:23:16

LAUGHTER

0:23:160:23:17

I'm going to show you how to cook this magnificent beast.

0:23:180:23:22

One of the first things you have to do is cut him.

0:23:220:23:26

We're going to take a superb fillet off here,

0:23:260:23:29

running the knife hopefully up the bone...

0:23:290:23:31

He's just hacked a lump off!

0:23:320:23:34

I'm sorry. I have just done that completely the wrong way round.

0:23:340:23:39

You must always start filleting a fish from its head

0:23:390:23:43

and run with the flow of the fish.

0:23:430:23:45

-Do you know what I love about him? He was dead honest.

-He was.

0:23:450:23:48

It's, like, "There it is, that is what I do. This is it."

0:23:480:23:51

I'm sorry. I will do it properly from hereon in.

0:23:510:23:54

Before that, I will have a little slurp

0:23:540:23:56

because I'm a bit nervous today.

0:23:560:23:58

I'm hot, tired, trying to do it right and make mistakes.

0:23:580:24:02

Please excuse me.

0:24:020:24:03

DAVE LAUGHS There we are.

0:24:030:24:05

I'm back at the piano, which is what we gastronauts call a cooker.

0:24:050:24:09

I'm sorry for the cock-up earlier.

0:24:090:24:11

Now I will get down to the serious business of turning a pike,

0:24:110:24:14

a fish which some people throw to their cats,

0:24:140:24:16

or even back into the river,

0:24:160:24:17

or generally despise, into a gastronomic delight.

0:24:170:24:20

I'll show you what we're doing.

0:24:200:24:23

Trust Floyd to cook up an unfashionable fish like pike.

0:24:230:24:27

It was unheard of on British menus in the '80s.

0:24:270:24:30

Yet it was a staple food for centuries.

0:24:300:24:33

In the Middle Ages, nutritionally it was as important as bread.

0:24:330:24:37

Well, Floyd got us eating all kinds of fish.

0:24:370:24:40

He got the nation cooking. He got the nation enjoying food.

0:24:400:24:43

Actually, I remember people,

0:24:430:24:45

at those times, people didn't eat much fish at all.

0:24:450:24:48

As with all fish, if you are poaching them,

0:24:480:24:50

the liquid must be still.

0:24:500:24:52

This IS cooking. It's not bubbling away.

0:24:520:24:54

If the liquid is bubbling, it will destroy the flesh of the fish.

0:24:540:24:57

-Proper cooking.

-Yeah, it is.

-It wasn't cooking made easy.

0:24:570:25:01

I can remember buying his cook books

0:25:010:25:03

-and it got me cooking properly.

-Yeah.

0:25:030:25:05

Cos he was a classically-trained French chef.

0:25:050:25:07

-He had a French restaurant in France as an Englishman!

-Yeah.

0:25:070:25:12

We can let that reduce a little.

0:25:120:25:14

THUMPING OFF-SCREEN

0:25:140:25:17

If you heard any noises there,

0:25:170:25:18

the cameramen were tripping over their equipment.

0:25:180:25:20

It's a very hot, tight kitchen.

0:25:200:25:23

He was a restaurateur who was discovered

0:25:230:25:25

-and asked to be on the telly.

-Yeah.

0:25:250:25:27

But he kind of... He strikes you as someone who thought,

0:25:270:25:31

"Well, why not? It would be good for the restaurant."

0:25:310:25:33

He didn't... He just went on and did it.

0:25:330:25:36

OK, so one egg yolk in...plop. Come on in.

0:25:360:25:38

I remember being very, very interested in food,

0:25:380:25:41

what Mam did and what my sister did and what me brother did

0:25:410:25:45

and how they cooked.

0:25:450:25:46

Then when he came along, it blew that out of the water.

0:25:460:25:49

It was, like, "Wow!"

0:25:490:25:50

It was exciting. It was an adventure.

0:25:500:25:53

And people must never forget Floyd filmed 20 television series

0:25:530:25:58

and around 25 books.

0:25:580:26:01

That is a lot of work.

0:26:010:26:02

-His programmes are still being shown in 40 countries.

-Yeah.

0:26:020:26:06

That is incredible.

0:26:060:26:08

How he propelled food into...

0:26:080:26:11

It was just wonderment and kind of excitement

0:26:110:26:16

and this kind of slightly eccentric character

0:26:160:26:20

and personality who was just having a great time with food.

0:26:200:26:24

What the French would call "nap", which is a lovely word,

0:26:240:26:27

but we're going to call it "coat".

0:26:270:26:29

Coat the fish.

0:26:290:26:31

Before then, it was instructional,

0:26:310:26:33

but Floyd took you with him as gastronauts on a great adventure.

0:26:330:26:38

Isn't that pretty? What a wonderful way to celebrate freshwater fish.

0:26:380:26:42

You could do this with perch, you could do it with trout,

0:26:420:26:45

you could do it with carp, you could do it with pike,

0:26:450:26:48

you could do it with anything.

0:26:480:26:49

One little mouthful.

0:26:490:26:51

There he goes again -

0:26:510:26:52

really bigging up all those fish we used to eat centuries ago.

0:26:520:26:55

For those of you who might be fishermen

0:26:550:26:57

and catch a pike and throw it back or feed it to your cat

0:26:570:27:00

or say it's inedible because it's full of bones and tastes earthy,

0:27:000:27:03

I have to tell you, you are quite wrong!

0:27:030:27:06

Yes, it's a real call to arms to get us fishing in our waterways

0:27:060:27:09

and eating our freshwater fish.

0:27:090:27:12

Whilst Floyd likes to delicately poach his catch...

0:27:190:27:22

..in Gloucestershire on the River Wye there's one fish

0:27:220:27:26

that provided a seasonal treat for lucky locals for generations.

0:27:260:27:29

But now this fish has almost disappeared from their diet.

0:27:290:27:33

It's not really a fish, is it?

0:27:350:27:37

Yes, it is, but it's an elongated fish.

0:27:390:27:42

And although it might not win any fish beauty pageants,

0:27:430:27:47

our Best Of British Food Hero

0:27:470:27:48

thinks the eel is Britain's loveliest fish

0:27:480:27:50

and wants to get them back on our dinner plates.

0:27:500:27:53

It is a fantastic creature.

0:27:550:27:56

It's strong, it's quick, you know.

0:27:560:28:00

And when you come to eat it, yeah, when you come to eat that product,

0:28:000:28:05

it's got genuine flavour, it's got real bite

0:28:050:28:08

It's just a fantastic fish to eat.

0:28:080:28:11

Richard Cook's passion for eels started when he was a boy,

0:28:140:28:19

fishing with his dad for elvers or baby eels,

0:28:190:28:22

which the locals used to go mad for.

0:28:220:28:23

-It is like a drug.

-It's almost a drug!

0:28:290:28:31

Yeah, yeah, the fishing gets in your blood.

0:28:310:28:33

To go home and have a feed of elvers with some good fatty bacon,

0:28:330:28:38

well, it was paradise for them.

0:28:380:28:43

It was caviar.

0:28:430:28:44

Historically, people living close to major rivers

0:28:450:28:49

have always loved their eel treats - jellied eels, eel pie -

0:28:490:28:51

but in Gloucestershire it's the baby eels, or elvers,

0:28:510:28:55

that were a specialty for hundreds of years.

0:28:550:28:57

All eels are born in the Sargasso Sea near Bermuda.

0:29:000:29:05

They spend two years swimming to the UK to grow up in our waterways.

0:29:050:29:09

And in Gloucestershire fishermen would

0:29:090:29:11

gather on the river as elvers arrived on the spring tide.

0:29:110:29:14

Fishing and eating them was major part of local life.

0:29:140:29:18

There was 1,000 men fishing eels on the Severn,

0:29:190:29:23

so this was a big industry

0:29:230:29:26

that operated under the cloak of darkness.

0:29:260:29:29

It only happens during the dark of night

0:29:290:29:31

and the tides are better during the dark for fishing.

0:29:310:29:37

-It was a great night out, wasn't it?

-Yeah.

-It was a great night out.

0:29:370:29:41

There was always a fire, there was always...

0:29:410:29:45

they'd always have a bottle of beer or a bottle of cider.

0:29:450:29:49

-It was a great craic.

-Yeah.

-It was a great craic.

-Yeah.

-You know.

0:29:490:29:54

Bear in mind, this is poor man's food.

0:29:540:29:56

This is peasant's food. Fishing for elvers was a right of the poor.

0:29:560:30:01

The salmon fishing and the sea trout

0:30:010:30:03

fishing that took place in this river,

0:30:030:30:05

that was controlled by the Crown, or by landowners and aristocracy.

0:30:050:30:08

Elver fishing was for the peasants.

0:30:080:30:11

It's a way of life.

0:30:110:30:13

It is a culture I have been involved in and Dad's taken me on the river.

0:30:130:30:16

And we've both... And our family's been involved in, yeah?

0:30:160:30:20

And it's...it's been good to us.

0:30:200:30:22

My life experiences have been built up on the river, you know.

0:30:220:30:26

Richard has turned his passion

0:30:270:30:29

for eel and all things fishy into a family business.

0:30:290:30:33

His smokehouse supplies some of the UK's top retailers.

0:30:330:30:36

And he's determined to make eel fishing and consumption sustainable

0:30:360:30:41

to keep this local tradition alive.

0:30:410:30:43

He now only sells adult eels which have been farmed in Europe...

0:30:430:30:46

Because in the UK, there's a problem.

0:30:460:30:49

In fact, there's an eel crisis.

0:30:490:30:53

Nobody can be exactly sure why, but in the last 25 years

0:30:540:30:58

the number of baby eels arriving on the spring tide

0:30:580:31:01

has decreased by 95%.

0:31:010:31:03

So tragically the Gloucestershire tradition of fishing for elvers

0:31:030:31:06

and eating them by the pint has died out completely.

0:31:060:31:10

Richard believes that one reason for the decrease in elvers

0:31:100:31:12

is that some of them get caught up in weirs and dams

0:31:120:31:15

on their way through our waterways.

0:31:150:31:17

The fish get into the river and they're stuck.

0:31:200:31:23

They can't get over the weirs.

0:31:230:31:25

They can't get out of the sluice gates.

0:31:250:31:27

We have to find a way of helping these fish.

0:31:270:31:30

But Richard's got a plan to keep eel-eating on the local menu.

0:31:310:31:35

Richard catches the elvers as they arrive,

0:31:370:31:39

before they get caught in the machinery.

0:31:390:31:42

Then he releases them into lakes and marshland where they can feed

0:31:420:31:46

and grow to adult size, ready to make the journey back to Bermuda

0:31:460:31:50

for some sun, sea, sand and...reproduction.

0:31:500:31:53

We don't conserve this eel

0:32:000:32:01

because we think it is going to be pretty to look at in the future.

0:32:010:32:05

You'll never see them. This was an important source of food locally.

0:32:050:32:10

I just want other people to enjoy what is a brilliant...

0:32:100:32:14

a brilliant fish to eat.

0:32:140:32:16

Richard also involves

0:32:180:32:20

Gloucestershire schools in his local conservation project,

0:32:200:32:23

part of a European campaign to save the eel.

0:32:230:32:26

Can you see them? There they go.

0:32:260:32:28

He wants to show a new generation that

0:32:320:32:34

sustainable farmed adult eel is tasty too.

0:32:340:32:37

He's brought Tanya, head chef in his restaurant,

0:32:370:32:39

to cook up some eel treats here on the river bank.

0:32:390:32:42

I am hoping, I am hoping, I am desperately hoping, yeah,

0:32:430:32:48

that we can engage these children

0:32:480:32:50

to try and eat and enjoy this fantastic food product.

0:32:500:32:53

Fantastic. Well done.

0:32:540:32:55

Are these slimy?

0:32:550:32:58

I did a good bit of research on the internet about eel pie,

0:32:580:33:00

trying to come up with a really sort of authentic 18th-century recipe.

0:33:000:33:04

I got a classic short suet pastry,

0:33:040:33:06

then we poached the eel in its own stock

0:33:060:33:09

after cooking them, and made a nice liquor with some bacon,

0:33:090:33:12

with a little bit of cream and parsley.

0:33:120:33:15

This is basically just the plain skinned, filleted fresh eel

0:33:150:33:21

which was done this morning.

0:33:210:33:22

We've done nothing to it. We haven't put any seasoning on it.

0:33:220:33:25

This one will be barbecued and have its natural flavour as it is.

0:33:250:33:29

Those lucky kids are getting well stuck in to smoked eel kebabs

0:33:300:33:34

and jellied eel.

0:33:340:33:35

And they're loving it!

0:33:350:33:37

There you go.

0:33:370:33:38

It is so yummy!

0:33:380:33:41

I had all the eels that you can imagine!

0:33:410:33:46

We can't believe how popular it's been.

0:33:470:33:49

The children have been coming back for seconds.

0:33:490:33:51

This has been the most popular, the smoked eel.

0:33:510:33:53

Just little skewers and simply cooked on the barbecue like this.

0:33:530:33:58

The true barometer of the success

0:33:590:34:01

is that the kids are coming back for seconds,

0:34:010:34:04

so I am absolutely delighted, yeah, that these children

0:34:040:34:07

are now engaged in smoked eel and are engaged in fresh eel.

0:34:070:34:10

It will become important to them in the future, I hope.

0:34:100:34:13

That's a really great thing for us.

0:34:130:34:16

I don't know about you, Si,

0:34:160:34:17

but that has certainly changed the way I feel about eel.

0:34:170:34:21

The great thing about fish is you can eat it fresh from the river,

0:34:300:34:33

like we did with Tiggy or with a fancy sauce like Floyd.

0:34:330:34:37

-So if you fancy a bit of sauce with your fish...

-I do!

0:34:380:34:41

..here's the Hairy Bikers homage to the great British waterways.

0:34:410:34:45

But with ingredients that you can find at your local supermarket.

0:34:450:34:50

We are going to do rainbow trout

0:34:500:34:52

with a creamy prawn sauce on a bed of watercress.

0:34:520:34:55

This is a classic fish sauce. It is good with all fish.

0:34:570:35:00

It's good with everything, with Dover sole, cod goes really nice

0:35:000:35:04

and any meaty white fish is good too.

0:35:040:35:06

Oil goes into a pan.

0:35:080:35:10

What we want to do is first brown off some onion, fennel,

0:35:100:35:14

which goes well with fish, celery and carrot.

0:35:140:35:18

This is rustic. We want the veg for flavour, not for appearance,

0:35:180:35:24

so there's none of your fancy mirepoix.

0:35:240:35:26

-Fennel is great with fish, isn't it, Kingy?

-Absolutely lovely.

0:35:300:35:33

What's nice about fennel is it has a lovely aniseed flavour.

0:35:330:35:37

It is very gentle. Really nice.

0:35:370:35:39

It's a little sweet as well, which is good.

0:35:390:35:41

Don't worry about browning this veg. You want a bit of colour on it.

0:35:410:35:46

-Celery leaves are great.

-Fabulous.

0:35:480:35:50

They are full of flavour and hardly anybody uses them, but do,

0:35:500:35:54

because they're... Ah! ..lovely, man.

0:35:540:35:56

This really will start to smell good!

0:36:060:36:10

We're shelling the prawns to use later in the sauce

0:36:100:36:13

but we're not going to waste the heads and tails,

0:36:130:36:16

they'll flavour the stock.

0:36:160:36:17

What we do now is, we take the heads off...shell 'em.

0:36:170:36:22

You can do this while that's cooking down.

0:36:220:36:25

There's the poo tube down the prawn. See that?

0:36:270:36:32

It's like a black elastic band.

0:36:320:36:35

You want that out. You don't want to eat what the prawn's been eating!

0:36:360:36:40

I know this bowl may look like a fisherman's dustbin -

0:36:400:36:43

that's full of flavour.

0:36:430:36:45

-That's the foundation stone of our sauce.

-Yes.

0:36:450:36:49

-If you can get flavour out of it, don't throw it away!

-No.

0:36:490:36:54

Now, these go in here...

0:36:540:36:56

..because this is the basis of your stock.

0:36:580:37:00

You could write a cookbook -

0:37:000:37:02

Things To Do With Stuff You Should Have Put In The Bin.

0:37:020:37:05

Now, a top tip -

0:37:070:37:09

take a wooden spoon, or two, and give them a bash,

0:37:090:37:15

just so you are extracting as much flavour as you can.

0:37:150:37:19

Give it a mush. We're going to strain this sauce,

0:37:190:37:23

so all the big chunks of veg, the prawn heads, tails

0:37:230:37:25

and everything, they go in the dustbin.

0:37:250:37:28

Once we have extracted the goodness. Smells great.

0:37:280:37:31

Next step, tomato puree. We need to cook this in for a minute.

0:37:310:37:35

A good old glug of wine in true Floyd tradition.

0:37:370:37:41

I always remember one thing that Keith Floyd said that stuck with me

0:37:410:37:45

was, "Never use wine for cooking

0:37:450:37:47

"that you wouldn't be prepared to drink."

0:37:470:37:50

-I think he's right.

-Oh, absolutely. Absolutely.

0:37:500:37:53

What's the point in putting cheap wine into great food?

0:37:530:37:56

-Let's have a bit more, then!

-Go on!

0:37:560:37:58

To this we add water...and salt.

0:38:000:38:04

And that, my friends, needs to simmer for 40 minutes.

0:38:080:38:12

Cor, look at that!

0:38:120:38:15

After the stock has simmered, we're going to make sure there's

0:38:150:38:18

no bits of prawn shell left in by straining it through a muslin cloth.

0:38:180:38:22

Make sure it's clean. Don't use dyed cloth,

0:38:220:38:25

or all of a sudden your sauce turns purple! I know. I've done it!

0:38:250:38:30

-My mother used to use her old tights, but it is not nice.

-No.

0:38:300:38:34

-Did you get many visitors for dinner after school?

-No.

0:38:360:38:39

Mash it through.

0:38:420:38:43

Next!

0:38:450:38:47

That's quite a potent broth.

0:38:520:38:54

We're going to reduce this even more.

0:38:570:38:59

Add cream and salt and then cook the prawns in that sauce

0:39:010:39:05

and that is what we're using to dress the watercress and the trout.

0:39:050:39:09

And don't forget -

0:39:090:39:10

all "reduction" means is reducing the volume to intensify the flavour.

0:39:100:39:15

That means that if we lose weight, we should get stronger,

0:39:150:39:20

which would probably be true.

0:39:200:39:22

Let's talk trout.

0:39:220:39:24

These are rainbow trout fillets.

0:39:250:39:27

Rainbow trout is what you will find in British supermarkets.

0:39:270:39:31

We first farmed trout in Britain in the 1950s

0:39:310:39:34

and it was a Danish entrepreneur who set up a trout farm in Lincolnshire.

0:39:340:39:38

Now we have 360 fish farms in Britain,

0:39:380:39:42

producing 16,000 tonnes of trout a year.

0:39:420:39:46

And that's a testament to the amount of trout that we eat.

0:39:460:39:49

We've mega-flavours going on in that sauce.

0:39:490:39:52

So the trout, it's a pure flavour, it's lovely.

0:39:520:39:55

We're not going to confuse that.

0:39:550:39:57

We simply fry them in oil and butter.

0:39:570:39:59

Place these in, skin-side down.

0:39:590:40:02

Don't forget that top Hairy Bikers tip -

0:40:020:40:04

oil in the pan first, then the butter.

0:40:040:40:06

The oil stops the butter from burning.

0:40:060:40:09

You still get the butter flavour and that lovely golden colour.

0:40:090:40:13

Now add cream to the reduced stock to give it a rich loveliness.

0:40:160:40:20

It's really quite intense, isn't it?

0:40:200:40:22

-It is.

-We're going to drop the prawns in.

0:40:220:40:26

That will add to the flavour of it.

0:40:260:40:28

We're using fresh raw prawns which will turn a lovely pink colour when cooked.

0:40:280:40:32

Be careful you don't overcook them or they will end up as a chew

0:40:320:40:36

and we don't want that, do we?

0:40:360:40:38

'Once the trout has cooked for four minutes, skin side down,

0:40:380:40:42

-'the skin is really easy to take off.'

-Beautiful.

0:40:420:40:45

'And the other side just needs to cook for another three minutes.'

0:40:450:40:49

See how the skin's coming away?

0:40:490:40:51

That's what I want. I want to lose that.

0:40:510:40:54

Easy-peasy lemon squeezy! This is good fish.

0:40:540:40:58

As soon as those prawns are pink... we're ready.

0:41:000:41:04

-We are ready to talk watercress.

-We certainly are.

0:41:040:41:09

This is watercress from the chalk streams of Hampshire.

0:41:090:41:12

It's interesting that it's sold in posies.

0:41:120:41:14

This goes back to Victorian times

0:41:140:41:16

when the train would go up to London

0:41:160:41:18

and children would go round the streets and Covent Garden market

0:41:180:41:21

selling posies of watercress.

0:41:210:41:24

Victorians would eat them like ice creams, just like a cornet.

0:41:240:41:28

What was lovely, a watercress sandwich,

0:41:280:41:30

cos it's so full of iron and purifying things for your blood.

0:41:300:41:34

People would have watercress sandwiches for breakfast.

0:41:340:41:37

It's full of vitamin C. It's full of calcium.

0:41:370:41:41

It's a bit of a super-food, watercress.

0:41:410:41:44

It's very peppery.

0:41:440:41:45

We used to mix it with samphire and serve it with fish.

0:41:450:41:48

Watercress and samphire, the samphire's salty -

0:41:480:41:49

it was like nature's salt and pepper.

0:41:490:41:52

Let's get a couple of these trout fillets out.

0:41:580:42:00

I think you'll agree... that's kind of perfect.

0:42:020:42:05

Beautiful.

0:42:080:42:09

Ho-ho-ho! Simon King - prawn sculpture.

0:42:090:42:13

That's what you call prawnography on television!

0:42:130:42:16

Some of that...over the top.

0:42:160:42:19

There we have it, our homage to the British waterways.

0:42:190:42:23

-Trout with...

-prawns on a bed of...

-Hampshire watercress. Ooh!

0:42:230:42:29

Looks good. Tastes good.

0:42:290:42:32

By golly, that's going to do you good.

0:42:320:42:34

So from the medieval tradition of fish on a Friday...

0:42:410:42:44

..to fishing becoming a national obsession...

0:42:440:42:46

..British waterways have shaped our culinary landscape

0:42:460:42:49

and our culture for thousands of years.

0:42:490:42:52

And if you want to know more...

0:42:550:42:57

Visit...

0:42:570:43:02

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food...

0:43:020:43:06

..and to find out how to cook up the recipes in today's show.

0:43:060:43:10

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0:43:310:43:34

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