Two from One James Martin: Home Comforts


Two from One

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If there's one thing I look forward to at the end of a busy day,

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it's the thought of getting back to my kitchen at home.

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For me, nothing beats cooking some simple,

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heart-warming food.

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Ho-ho-ho! it is so good.

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The kind of no-nonsense grub

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-that brings people together.

-Cheers, everyone.

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The dishes I turn to when I want to put a big smile on everyone's face.

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These are my home comforts.

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When it comes to dinner, sometimes it's impossible to please everyone.

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Kids and their parents have very different ideas about what

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makes a good meal, so, for busy families, I'm going to make

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two distinct dishes from the same set of ingredients -

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one for the kids and one for the grown-ups.

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These are dishes that'll keep everybody happy.

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# It takes two, baby

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# It takes two, baby

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# Me and you. #

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Making two from one means some snappy chopping.

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I'm the world's fastest peeler and carrot chopper,

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and I made it into the Guinness Book of Records.

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Food Historian Annie Gray tracks down a two-from-one

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wartime kids treat.

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Children were encouraged to eat carrots on sticks

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instead of lollipops.

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And for the big kid in all of us

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I make some divine banana desserts.

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It doesn't matter how old you are,

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-you can still enjoy bananas and custard.

-Of course you can.

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I'm kicking off with making a risotto,

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and then using this as a base to create a different, stylish supper,

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all using some courgettes picked from my own garden.

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This is a courgette and lemon risotto

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and a grown-up arancini supper with deep-fried courgette flowers.

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Now, this is the perfect dish that you can serve for the kids,

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first of all, and then you can have a meal later on,

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because it really is two dishes out of the same ingredients.

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So, the first thing I'm going to do is get our risotto on.

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Now, for that I'm going to use just a simple little base

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of shallots and garlic

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and just cut them quite small, really.

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Get the pan on, put in a knob of butter

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and start to slowly sweat the shallots and garlic.

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It's important, really, for this that you don't colour it,

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mainly cos you're going to end up with little black bits

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in the risotto, so you're almost just lightly sweating

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the shallots and the garlic.

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Next up is some thyme.

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Depending on the season, particularly when you grow it

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in the garden, in the winter you've got to strip it from the stalks,

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but in the summer, you can actually chop the stalks through,

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cos they're nice and soft.

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Now I can add the rice.

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Now, we're going to use some proper risotto rice.

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Arborio carnaroli rice.

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It's entirely up to you which one you use,

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but it must be risotto rice.

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Generally, I would go for around 25-30 grams of rice per portion,

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something around that.

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Even though this is for the kids, I'm still going to put

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a little bit of wine in there, cos the alcohol's

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going to burn off. But the wine will give it a nice little sharpness.

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And then, finally, we've got some stock.

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I think this is really the key to making a good risotto,

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is chicken stock. And all we want to do is just add enough stock

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to almost cover the rice.

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Now, the old way, and particularly when I've seen risottos done,

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is somebody stood there, stirring it, 15-20 minutes, mixing it,

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mixing it, mixing it. You don't need to do that, really.

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Just keep your eye on it. The main thing is

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you don't want it to dry out.

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This now needs to gently simmer.

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As it starts to dry out, add a little bit more stock.

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One thing you don't want to be doing is boiling this, like boiling

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rice in water, where you're going to drain it off afterwards.

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You want all that lovely stock to absorb into the rice.

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After about seven or eight minutes,

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it's time to add the courgettes.

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Chop them up and chuck them into the pan,

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and let it carry on cooking for another five to six minutes.

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All the while, topping up with stock, if you have to,

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but make sure you keep some back for later on.

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Now, I've had people tell me the best way of testing

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whether the rice is cooked, is to take a little bit

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and press it in your fingers. But...

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..put it in your mouth.

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That's the best way to test whether it's cooked.

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Shouldn't be any bite on there.

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When the rice is ready, grate a pile of Parmesan cheese

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and throw it into the rice.

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Now, what'll happen is Parmesan cheese will actually soak up

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the liquid and act kind of like a sponge, really,

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so, you've got to offset it with something.

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That's why I've got a little bit of stock left over.

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Next, chuck in the zest of a lemon and some of its juice.

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Some black pepper and a good pinch

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of salt and that, really, is all you need.

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Serve, and grate a bit of Parmesan cheese over the top

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to finish it off.

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Just delicious. Lovely and light.

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The kids will love it, because you've got a little bit

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of lemon in there.

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It almost excites the taste buds.

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It's delicious. But I'm not going to stop there.

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I'm going to create another dish using the leftover bits of risotto.

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Arancini are a classic Sicilian savoury dish,

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or deep-fried, savoury rice balls to you and me.

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Start off by spreading the remaining risotto over a tray

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covered with clingfilm.

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Then place it in the fridge for at least half an hour,

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allowing it to set.

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To turn this into arancini is really simple.

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What I'm going to do is take some more Parmesan cheese.

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This is quite crucial, really.

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You've got to treat this as the opposite of the risotto that you've just made.

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That liquid is going to cause a problem

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when we roll it up into little balls so, to help soak it up,

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we put a bit more Parmesan cheese on.

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To this I'm adding some Serrano ham that's chopped up nice and small

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then sprinkled over the top.

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I'm almost ready to roll, I just need a bowl of water,

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some fresh breadcrumbs, flour and two eggs beaten together.

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Now, to mould these little arancini,

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the best way you can do it is actually soak your fingers

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first in water. This is one of the great things about this recipe,

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you get two dishes for the price of one.

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Just by adding this ham, you end up with these

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lovely little arancini balls that make great dinner party dishes.

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Once these are all coated in the breadcrumbs,

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they'll also keep in the fridge nicely for when you want them.

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So they'll keep a couple of days.

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To go with the arancini balls,

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I'm making some deep-fried courgette flowers.

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This, to me, is the really fantastic part of growing courgettes.

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You end up with these amazing flowers that are delicious.

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Just remove the tops and inside here you'll have little

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sort of stamens in there. You just want to get rid of that,

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it's not very pleasant to eat, really.

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Now, to deep fry them, I use a combination

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of flour and cornflour,

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to create kind of like a tempura batter.

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Good pinch of salt and then sparking water. The idea of this is that

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the carbonation from the fizzy water helps fizz up

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the batter, as well. It really works

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and helps this crisp when it hits the fryer.

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Using this batter, I'm covering the courgette flowers.

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Both these and the arancini only take about two minutes to cook,

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so put them into the hot deep-fat fryer at the same time.

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When they're crisp, just drain them off

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and then we've got our lovely arancini.

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A pinch of salt, a squeeze of lemon over the top

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and I can dive in.

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Mm-mm-mm!

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They're just delicious and if you've never tried these,

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you've got to, because these are really special.

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And the batter is lovely and crisp.

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There's no real flavour like it.

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It's not like munching on a bunch of daffodils.

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These are really good.

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So, there you have it, two great meals, all using the same

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set of ingredients, and some of it came from my back garden.

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With all cooking, it's so important to use the best

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ingredients, and I'm constantly amazed by what's available,

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right on our doorsteps.

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Having grown up on a pig farm,

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one ingredient close to my heart is pork.

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I've eaten it every way possible and I think the ultimate

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is a banger, and what could be better

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than the Yorkshire sausage?

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The man behind this creation is butcher David Lishman.

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A few years ago, we found that customers were

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coming into our shop and asking us, "Where's the Yorkshire sausage?"

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We're selling Cumberland sausage, we're selling Lincolnshire sausage,

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so we decided to develop the official Yorkshire sausage recipe.

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David only uses the best pork in his sausages,

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getting his meat from the local pig farmers, including Colin Piercy.

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Come on, then.

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I've been amongst pigs all my life, you know, ever since me grandfather

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had pigs, ever since me father had pigs.

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I don't know nowt else.

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Sold me first pig when I was five.

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I went to York market, I used to bunk off school on a Thursday

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because it was market day.

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It was a waste of time, me being at school.

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It's very much a family business,

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with Colin's two sons working on the farm,

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and his 83-year-old dad helping out, as well.

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Next lot down there, they're coming out tomorrow.

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We run 400 sows here

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and there's about seven boars.

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We have roughly 3,500 little ones like this.

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Colin's pigs are outdoor reared, which is what David thinks

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helps to make them such good quality.

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What I look for in the best pork is the fact that it's been

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bred locally. We want the ones that are slowly matured,

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that have got a little bit more fat, had some age and some corn

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and that just produces some of the best pork that we can find.

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Today, David has come to Colin's farm to select

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a sow for some of his sausages.

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That looks a good one, Colin.

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This pig here, he will...

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Ideally, that's excellent for you, is that pig there.

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The hams on that pig - a big, hammy pig -

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and then on the front end, the shoulder,

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it'll be an ideal pig for the job.

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When Colin's hammy pigs arrive at David's butchers,

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he selects the meat he wants to use in his Yorkshire sausages,

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which is the shoulder and the belly.

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We're looking for 80% lean, 20% fat and that makes

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the best sausage that we could possibly have.

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It gives it succulence, it gives it flavour

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and it keeps it nice and moist during cooking.

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And now we need to add the seasonings, the spices,

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to make it into a real Yorkshire sausage.

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These are salt, white pepper, some English mustard powder,

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nutmeg, allspice, freshly chopped parsley and some rusk.

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We just need a little bit of water to rehydrate that rusk, because

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it's very dry. Mix it up and then we're ready to go.

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All I have to do now is wind the handle down,

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it'll extrude the sausage meat out of the filler,

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into the skin, and we'll have the perfect sausage.

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And now we just make these into butchers' links,

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into threes in a bundle.

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Beautiful Yorkshire sausages.

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A quick sizzle in the pan

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and it's time to see what the home crowd think.

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It's very nice.

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Great seasoning, so subtle, but really well-rounded.

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The pork is really nice, it's not gristly at all.

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They're really good, great.

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-Delicious, David.

-You like that?

-Yeah.

-Good.

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It puts Yorkshire on the map.

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It shows what great produce we have in this county

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and I'm rather chuffed at that.

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David's sausages are perfect for my next two recipes,

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so I've invited him down to my kitchen,

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and he's brought some of his bangers with him.

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Now, I can't believe there hasn't been a Yorkshire sausage.

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Well, we found that there was no real official Yorkshire sausage

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recipe, so we went to the people of Yorkshire, basically.

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We had six different varieties.

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We were on the streets of Scarborough, we were in

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Dalby Forest at the mountain biking championships,

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and we asked them to vote on which one they wanted.

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-This is what they came up with.

-This is the one that came out.

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I'm going to use David's sausages as the core ingredient

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to making two great dishes -

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glammed up bangers and beans on toast for the kids,

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and confit duck cassoulet with mash for the adults.

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It's kind of a dish that you can make now and eat later,

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so, it's the kind of dish, if you've got a family, it's perfect

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and then we're going to do a French-style cassoulet.

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I'm starting off by frying some of David's sausages.

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Then I'm putting some finely chopped shallots, garlic

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and a tiny bit of rosemary into the pan to start sweating them down.

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When the sausages are sealed,

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put them in the oven for 10-12 minutes to finish cooking.

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How can you tell when a sausage is really good?

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What would you be looking for? Is it that ratio of fat to meat?

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Yes. If it's too lean, it'll go quite hard and dry

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when you're cooking it.

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If it's too fat, it'll just shrink away to nothing. But the main thing

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is what's the quality of the meat that's going into the sausage?

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-You get what you pay for, don't you, really?

-That's it, yeah.

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It's time to get the toast ready.

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Slice some bread, drizzle with oil and place it on to the griddle.

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Then pour in a can of tinned tomatoes and add a little bit

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of chicken stock to loosen everything up.

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Now, it's time for the beans.

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You can use any type of bean that you want.

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I've got some flageolet beans over here.

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You want to drain this salt water off.

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Could you use butter beans like we used to get at school?

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-What, the big, massive ones?

-Yes.

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Yeah, you can use butter beans. The problem is with those

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they do soak up a lot of the liquid,

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so you end up having to put more liquid in it as it soaks up.

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But if you want to change the recipe, you can change the recipe.

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Pour in the beans, bring everything to the boil,

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then start roughly chopping up some parsley.

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Now, what breed of pigs has Colin got there?

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What we use is a Hampshire crossed with a Large White

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and we will only take the gilts, the female pigs.

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All right, why's that, then?

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If you get boar pigs, they tend not to be as good a quality meat.

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-They can have an off flavour.

-I never knew that.

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-Boar taint, yes, you can get that.

-Boar taint, it's called?

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-Yes, boar taint.

-There's a new one on me.

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Boar taint. I've never heard that.

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It's because they've not been castrated.

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I mean, in the old days when your father was probably farming,

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-they used to castrate the pigs.

-Yes.

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I've actually got, somewhere in amongst my cupboard,

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I've got that...the big pliers...

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Ah, that's probably, yes.

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And you get...and it goes, ooh, and every time you do it,

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you're just ay-ay-ay-ay.

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But I never knew that about boar taint, though.

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It's a new one on me.

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Add a decent bit of salt and pepper.

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Then put the toast on a plate, a big dollop of beans,

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then top it all with a sausage.

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One simple meal for the kids already done.

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Another more grown-up one coming up, the cassoulet.

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So, what you do with this is you take the same mixture and you can

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imagine making this, five o'clock, and if you wanted something grown-up

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for later on, what you can do is take this,

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throw the sausages in and in the same pan here,

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we'll fire this up, and then I'm going to crisp up some lardons.

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I always remember this dish, doing this in the south of France.

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Big chunks of ham, tonnes of Toulouse sausages,

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duck confit going in there. They used to put everything in.

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If it walked and it had a pulse, it went in here.

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Today, I'm going to use some duck confit

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that needs to be shredded before putting it into the pan.

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Add the lardons, and then parsley and rosemary

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to increase the flavour.

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You can allow this to go cold and then reheat it afterwards, as well.

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A good amount of salt and pepper and then, using the left-over

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bits of bread that you've got, if the kids have got any left over,

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you can blitz them to create a nice little crust.

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So, what you need to do with this, really, is then take the crumbs

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and then just sprinkle this over the top.

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Once you've got the breadcrumbs on it, it probably wants about

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five minutes in a nice, hot oven.

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This gives me time to do the mash.

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I've already boiled these potatoes for about 15 minutes.

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Put them through a potato ricer,

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mix together with 50 grams of unsalted butter and

0:18:000:18:03

90 mls of double cream.

0:18:030:18:05

Serve a healthy scoop of it on the plate, ready for the cassoulet.

0:18:050:18:09

We'd better try this then, hadn't we, really,

0:18:090:18:11

with your Yorkshire sausages?

0:18:110:18:13

-Looks fantastic, James.

-Seeing as you've come all this way.

0:18:130:18:16

Seeing as it's your Yorkshire sausage and all that. You dive in.

0:18:160:18:19

-That's fantastic.

-I'm not bad at baked beans and you're not bad

0:18:220:18:25

-at making sausages, are you?

-That's great, is that.

0:18:250:18:27

The great thing about this is you can make this for the kids.

0:18:270:18:29

I'd be quite happy to be eating this, to be honest, but then you've

0:18:290:18:32

got another elaborate dish for later on

0:18:320:18:34

and it's one of those dishes you can make, put it in the fridge

0:18:340:18:36

and eat it later.

0:18:360:18:38

Two fantastic meals, with a sausage from my home county at their heart.

0:18:390:18:44

What more could you want?

0:18:440:18:46

Making two dishes from the same ingredients isn't a new idea.

0:18:490:18:53

During the Second World War, people became masters at this.

0:18:530:18:56

It was your patriotic duty.

0:18:560:18:58

Food historian Annie Grey is peering back into the past,

0:19:000:19:03

to cook up some wartime two-for-ones.

0:19:030:19:05

Imagine being a housewife in 1940s Britain,

0:19:070:19:10

looking at the ingredients in front of you, severely restricted

0:19:100:19:13

and not knowing where to turn for advice.

0:19:130:19:16

One of the places you would turn would be your wireless,

0:19:160:19:18

your radio, and one of the key programmes you'd be listening to

0:19:180:19:21

was a thing called Kitchen Front, which was broadcast every week

0:19:210:19:24

and listened to by millions of British housewives.

0:19:240:19:27

'Good evening. It is to you,

0:19:270:19:31

'the housewives of Britain, that I want to talk tonight.

0:19:310:19:35

'We are the army that guards the Kitchen Front.'

0:19:350:19:39

One of the things that Kitchen Front did was to try

0:19:410:19:44

and get people to think differently about certain ingredients,

0:19:440:19:48

and one of the key ingredients that they really liked to push

0:19:480:19:50

was carrots. We often had a glut of them during the War.

0:19:500:19:53

People could grow them in their own gardens,

0:19:530:19:55

they were very, very versatile.

0:19:550:19:57

The Ministry of War put out pamphlets, such as this one.

0:19:570:20:00

Carrots!

0:20:000:20:01

War Cookery Leaflet number four,

0:20:010:20:03

advising housewives on the range of things that they could do

0:20:030:20:06

with a simple root vegetable.

0:20:060:20:08

So, using this leaflet and using other wartime recipes,

0:20:080:20:12

I'm going to make two-from-one using carrots.

0:20:120:20:14

My first recipe is going to be War and Peace Pudding.

0:20:160:20:19

The first thing I need to do is to grate my carrots.

0:20:260:20:29

Of course, sugar was rationed in the war years,

0:20:320:20:35

so carrots were used to sweeten the pudding.

0:20:350:20:38

And cooks were urged to use every last morsel of food,

0:20:380:20:41

even plentiful root vegetables.

0:20:410:20:43

The head of the Ministry of Food,

0:20:440:20:45

Lord Woolton, who really was an amazing figure

0:20:450:20:48

who'd kept Britain eating, and it was said of him

0:20:480:20:51

seeing peelings hurt Lord Woolton's feelings,

0:20:510:20:53

and the nation was very much encouraged to leave peel on potatoes,

0:20:530:20:57

carrots and anything else which had edible peel.

0:20:570:21:00

This means Lord Woolton will be happy.

0:21:000:21:02

A cup of grated raw potato was also added to the mix,

0:21:040:21:08

along with suet,

0:21:080:21:10

breadcrumbs, mixed fruit,

0:21:100:21:12

flour and spice.

0:21:120:21:14

Like many other foods, spice was often in short supply.

0:21:150:21:19

That meant that chefs had to be very inventive

0:21:190:21:22

with the ingredients they did have, and that included carrots.

0:21:220:21:25

Children were encouraged to eat carrots on sticks,

0:21:270:21:30

instead of lollipops. There was curried carrots,

0:21:300:21:33

there were carrot puddings, carrot cakes, there was even a thing

0:21:330:21:36

called carrolade, which was a kind of horrible-sounding

0:21:360:21:40

mixture of swede and carrot juice all mixed up.

0:21:400:21:42

All right, that's my pudding.

0:21:440:21:47

This is a steamed pudding. So, first of all,

0:21:470:21:49

I need to prepare my pudding basin.

0:21:490:21:51

Fat was another one of those things that was in very short supply

0:21:540:21:57

during World War II, so people were taught

0:21:570:22:00

to keep all the fat from any form of cooking.

0:22:000:22:03

If you cooked bacon, you would make sure that you slowly cooked

0:22:030:22:06

the rind to extract all of the fat

0:22:060:22:08

and then you would use that fat again,

0:22:080:22:10

either for baking or for frying.

0:22:100:22:12

Likewise, other substitutes, such as paraffin oil

0:22:120:22:15

that was put into lamps, were tried for cakes.

0:22:150:22:17

I don't suppose they tasted very nice.

0:22:170:22:19

Steamed puddings were a really practical way

0:22:240:22:26

to cook food during the war.

0:22:260:22:28

A house like this would have had coal fires in most rooms

0:22:280:22:31

and in the kitchen a solid fuel range,

0:22:310:22:33

and in the winter they would have been going all the time

0:22:330:22:36

in order to heat the house.

0:22:360:22:37

Fuel was rationed, as well. Of course, you want to maximise

0:22:370:22:40

what you're doing with it.

0:22:400:22:41

So, putting a steamed pudding on the hob, just idling away,

0:22:410:22:44

is a really, really good way to make sure you maximise

0:22:440:22:47

the use of that precious fuel.

0:22:470:22:49

Right, that's my pudding prepared.

0:22:490:22:51

This is going to go into boiling water

0:22:530:22:56

for about two hours.

0:22:560:22:58

Because I'm making two from one,

0:23:020:23:04

obviously my second recipe is also based on carrots

0:23:040:23:07

and I think the best thing to go with a steamed pudding is jam.

0:23:070:23:10

So, I've got some carrot jam.

0:23:100:23:12

Us Brits have always loved a bit of jam,

0:23:140:23:17

and the craving for sweet stuff didn't go away in the war years,

0:23:170:23:21

so carrots came in as a handy substitute for sugary fruits,

0:23:210:23:24

like oranges and apricots, that were rationed.

0:23:240:23:27

This recipe is from a Kitchen Front broadcast in January, 1942.

0:23:290:23:34

This one is all carrots and a bit of lemon substitute,

0:23:350:23:38

which was often made by boiling up apple peel in bags,

0:23:380:23:41

because lemons were another thing that virtually disappeared

0:23:410:23:44

for the entire duration of the war.

0:23:440:23:46

There's also lots of sugar in here.

0:23:460:23:48

Again, rationed but, from time to time, the government did allow

0:23:480:23:51

extra allowances, specifically for jam making.

0:23:510:23:54

People were actually quite proud to say

0:23:570:24:00

they were serving carrot jam, as opposed to apricot jam,

0:24:000:24:03

because it was a mark of patriotism, to show that you were

0:24:030:24:05

using your carrots.

0:24:050:24:07

MUSIC "Puttin' On The Ritz" by Harry Richman

0:24:070:24:09

It's got quite a nice quiver to it.

0:24:190:24:22

It smells lovely. I'm glad I had some

0:24:220:24:24

pre-war spice left over, is all I can say.

0:24:240:24:28

Smells quite sweet, actually, as well,

0:24:280:24:30

which is surprising, given there's no sugar in it.

0:24:300:24:32

Mm, together they're really, really good.

0:24:380:24:41

The sweetness of the jam does make up

0:24:410:24:43

for the lack of sugar in the pudding.

0:24:430:24:45

And, as things to do with carrots go,

0:24:450:24:48

I would say both of my two-from-one actually are absolute winners.

0:24:480:24:52

Carrots have to be one of the most versatile veg there are,

0:24:560:25:00

but when it comes to meat, for me, chicken is the ultimate

0:25:000:25:04

for getting two-from-one.

0:25:040:25:05

I'm starting off with a classic roast chicken with veg fricassee,

0:25:070:25:11

which the children will love,

0:25:110:25:13

followed by an asparagus and chicken quiche for the grown-ups.

0:25:130:25:17

I'm going to roast this off, first of all, with a lovely

0:25:180:25:21

fricassee of vegetables to go with it.

0:25:210:25:23

For the chicken, first of all, what I'm going to do

0:25:230:25:25

is sit this on a trivet, which is, basically,

0:25:250:25:29

a mixture of diced veg, really. What you're trying to do is keep

0:25:290:25:32

the chicken away from the fat in the tray,

0:25:320:25:35

it stops it from catching on the base.

0:25:350:25:38

So, a little bit of onion, and then some carrot.

0:25:380:25:42

Back in the days, when I was a lot younger, I've actually got

0:25:430:25:46

a certificate that I'm the world's fastest peeler and carrot chopper

0:25:460:25:51

and made it into The Guinness Book of Records.

0:25:510:25:54

I was a lot quicker back then. But I don't know how I did it.

0:25:540:25:57

I did 26 carrots, peeled and chopped, in one minute.

0:25:570:26:00

I'm slowing down with age, you see.

0:26:020:26:04

Throw the carrots in with the onion and then we've got the chicken.

0:26:060:26:09

Very simply, straight onto the trivet, bit of black pepper

0:26:090:26:13

over the top, some salt, touch of oil -

0:26:130:26:15

I like using rapeseed oil with a chicken.

0:26:150:26:18

I always put a bit of water in the bottom.

0:26:180:26:21

I remember this cos my mother used to roast chicken like this,

0:26:210:26:24

and it just creates a little bit of steam in the tray.

0:26:240:26:27

And all we do with that is just stick it in the oven.

0:26:270:26:30

I can now make the garnish for the roast chicken, a simple fricassee.

0:26:350:26:39

It's one of these things that, when you know how to do it,

0:26:400:26:42

you'll never sort of boil vegetables again. It's such a simple way

0:26:420:26:46

of cooking things like asparagus and peas, and if you've got beans,

0:26:460:26:49

that kind of stuff, any green veg.

0:26:490:26:52

So, I've got some marjoram, it's a fantastic sort of herb.

0:26:520:26:55

I grow masses of this in the garden.

0:26:550:26:57

On there we've got a lovely shallot,

0:26:570:26:59

which we can just chop this up into rings.

0:26:590:27:01

With the veg ready, I'm putting some water into a pan,

0:27:040:27:06

followed by some butter.

0:27:060:27:08

And this is the key to this.

0:27:090:27:11

It's emulsifying the water and the butter together

0:27:110:27:13

to not only create a sauce

0:27:130:27:15

but it actually cooks the veg at the same time.

0:27:150:27:17

When the butter has melted down a bit, all the veg goes in

0:27:190:27:22

and it's put on as high a heat as possible.

0:27:220:27:24

Then season.

0:27:240:27:26

I'm just going to mix this all together.

0:27:260:27:29

It's as simple as that.

0:27:290:27:31

While that's boiling down, I can prepare the chicken, making sure

0:27:310:27:34

I'm not cutting through any bone, just the joints.

0:27:340:27:38

After five minutes, the veg has cooked and everything

0:27:380:27:41

is ready to serve.

0:27:410:27:43

So, you've got a great, simple meal, just with a simple

0:27:430:27:45

little veg fricassee, but the other idea that you can do for this,

0:27:450:27:49

is utilise the leftover pieces of chicken and for that,

0:27:490:27:52

you need to rip it apart.

0:27:520:27:54

This is going to be the star ingredient

0:27:540:27:57

in my awesome chicken and asparagus quiche.

0:27:570:27:59

I'm going to let you into a little secret.

0:27:590:28:02

The best part of the chicken can be found right here, underneath.

0:28:020:28:06

Some people call this the chef's eye or the chef's oyster.

0:28:060:28:09

Now, with this bit, it doesn't need to go in the quiche,

0:28:090:28:12

it doesn't need to go on your little fricassee, this bit is for the cook.

0:28:120:28:16

The best part of the entire chicken.

0:28:170:28:19

Once that's done, I can start rolling out the pastry.

0:28:210:28:25

Short pastry here, but the most important thing with this is

0:28:250:28:28

you make sure that you roll it out nice and thin.

0:28:280:28:31

And, really, this needs to sit in a quiche tin

0:28:310:28:33

that's been well buttered.

0:28:330:28:35

You need to make sure that you've got in every little nook and cranny

0:28:350:28:39

and by using your fingers you'll find it much easier.

0:28:390:28:42

Now, really, the golden rule with this is to make sure it's got

0:28:420:28:45

as little flour as possible, because shortcrust has a habit

0:28:450:28:49

of shrinking in the mould.

0:28:490:28:50

You need to make it as thin as possible.

0:28:500:28:53

You should be able to see outside.

0:28:530:28:55

Roughly.

0:28:560:28:57

And then roll it over the rolling pin, bring over your tin.

0:28:570:29:01

Keep it away from the edge of the tin, because you don't want

0:29:010:29:03

the rolling pin to touch the tin, otherwise it cuts into the pastry.

0:29:030:29:08

Place it in the bottom and just push it up to the edge.

0:29:080:29:11

Now, my best advice to prevent the pastry from shrinking,

0:29:110:29:17

is to actually leave it on the edges like that.

0:29:170:29:19

This'll be trimmed off later on.

0:29:210:29:23

And now, it's ready to be baked blind, which has to be done

0:29:230:29:26

to make sure the pastry is cooked properly,

0:29:260:29:29

before putting the filling in.

0:29:290:29:30

I'm going to show you a little chef's trick.

0:29:320:29:35

We use this, clingfilm.

0:29:350:29:36

Now, it's not food wrap, so when you pull it,

0:29:360:29:39

it doesn't make that "schlup" sound.

0:29:390:29:41

It's clingfilm.

0:29:410:29:43

It's really important you get the right one,

0:29:430:29:45

cos food wrap will melt, big time.

0:29:450:29:48

Now, what the clingfilm will do is get right into the corners

0:29:480:29:51

and grease-proof paper doesn't do that.

0:29:510:29:54

Tinfoil doesn't have the same effect.

0:29:540:29:56

It's a little chef's trick.

0:29:560:29:58

Then, simply fill it with flour.

0:30:000:30:02

You can then just bring up the edges of the clingfilm,

0:30:040:30:06

press it down like that.

0:30:060:30:08

Once that's done, it needs to be put into a preheated oven

0:30:100:30:13

at 200 degrees centigrade for 20-25 minutes,

0:30:130:30:17

until it's golden brown.

0:30:170:30:19

Take the flour out of the base and while the pastry is still hot,

0:30:220:30:25

paint the bottom with some egg wash.

0:30:250:30:28

This'll plug any holes that may have appeared.

0:30:280:30:31

Stick it back in the oven and, while that's in,

0:30:310:30:34

I'm going to create the mixture for the quiche.

0:30:340:30:36

I'm starting by cracking eight eggs into a bowl.

0:30:370:30:40

A bit of black pepper,

0:30:410:30:43

a good pinch of salt...

0:30:430:30:45

..and then some cream.

0:30:460:30:47

I'm pouring in 600 mls of double cream and whipping it all together.

0:30:490:30:53

I've got my asparagus, which you can cut up into

0:30:550:30:57

chunks and then I'm going to use some fancy cheese.

0:30:570:31:00

If you've got a bit of comte, you can use some gruyere,

0:31:000:31:03

any cheese, just grated.

0:31:030:31:06

Now, I love this stuff and I came across it at Nantwich Cheese Show.

0:31:060:31:10

Now, it may not sound glamorous...

0:31:100:31:11

..but it's the Glastonbury of cheese, trust me.

0:31:130:31:15

40,000 people turn up for one day

0:31:150:31:19

to go see a marquee full of cheese.

0:31:190:31:21

And then, taking our quiche out,

0:31:260:31:30

we can whack our filling in.

0:31:300:31:32

Asparagus, the chicken.

0:31:320:31:35

And this is the thing with quiche, put some filling in it!

0:31:350:31:39

Every single one you ever find in a shop,

0:31:390:31:42

it's like hide and seek for a tomato.

0:31:420:31:45

You know, just chuck some filling in it!

0:31:450:31:47

Then pop it back into an open oven,

0:31:480:31:50

for a little trick to prevent spillages.

0:31:500:31:52

If you're not steady on your legs, like me,

0:31:540:31:58

chuck the filling in here

0:31:580:31:59

cos you can top it up right to the edge - right, right, right -

0:31:590:32:03

till you can't get any more in, and then grab your cheese

0:32:030:32:05

and sprinkle this over the top.

0:32:050:32:07

Once that's done, gently slide the quiche in and bake

0:32:100:32:13

at 200 degrees centigrade for half an hour.

0:32:130:32:15

Take out of the oven, trim off the edges

0:32:190:32:21

and it's ready to serve.

0:32:210:32:23

That's delicious. Unlike any quiche that I've had before,

0:32:250:32:27

certainly at weddings, anyway.

0:32:270:32:29

One thing you've got to do with quiche is have it warm

0:32:290:32:32

or at room temperature.

0:32:320:32:33

You certainly don't want to put it in the fridge.

0:32:330:32:35

And it goes to prove you can do so much with the same

0:32:350:32:37

set of ingredients, and make them look totally different.

0:32:370:32:40

One thing I love having in my kitchen at home

0:32:440:32:47

is a simple ingredient that can be used in many different ways.

0:32:470:32:50

An idea that Aude Dupont Dudley has taken to heart

0:32:510:32:54

when she started producing the French sweet staple, fruit syrup.

0:32:540:32:59

I created Blossoms Syrup after my third baby.

0:33:000:33:04

I was working in the engineering industry and I wanted

0:33:040:33:08

to be involved in food and drink.

0:33:080:33:11

We Brits are mainly used to cordials,

0:33:110:33:13

but a French syrup is very different.

0:33:130:33:16

Imagine your cordial reduced to a very heavy consistency,

0:33:160:33:22

like a honey. This is what a syrup is.

0:33:220:33:26

The syrups are really versatile.

0:33:260:33:28

You can use them in food and drink, so, for example, in drinks,

0:33:280:33:32

in milkshakes or in cocktails.

0:33:320:33:34

You can drizzle on waffles, on pancakes,

0:33:340:33:36

you can use them in stir fry,

0:33:360:33:38

you can use them as the ingredient in chutney.

0:33:380:33:42

Any dishes you need a intense fruitiness coming through,

0:33:420:33:45

you can use them.

0:33:450:33:47

Aude only works with refined ingredients,

0:33:480:33:51

expertly combining fruit extract with liquid sugar and citric acid

0:33:510:33:56

to create an intensely fruity liquid.

0:33:560:33:59

I'm now going to make the mango syrup, which is a product

0:34:000:34:03

I'm launching this month

0:34:030:34:06

and I'm going to make a batch to be able to take to the Ritz later.

0:34:060:34:11

I've got my lovely mango concentrate.

0:34:110:34:13

And, again, I've got to be very careful.

0:34:130:34:16

The balance between the fruitiness and the sweetness

0:34:190:34:22

is the most important part of making the syrup.

0:34:220:34:25

I tried hundreds and hundreds of times to get the recipe right,

0:34:260:34:30

but I'm really happy now I have managed to reach the level

0:34:300:34:34

where the syrups are perfect.

0:34:340:34:36

It's balanced, you can feel the mango's coming through,

0:34:390:34:42

the sweetness and the natural acidity. Again, it's wonderful.

0:34:420:34:46

Aude's syrups are so popular that London's Ritz hotel

0:34:470:34:50

uses a number of her flavours as fruit mixers

0:34:500:34:53

in their exclusive cocktail bar.

0:34:530:34:55

She's come along today so that the resident mixologist

0:34:570:35:00

can test-drive her latest creation.

0:35:000:35:02

So, I'd like you to try this

0:35:020:35:05

and tell me what you can do with it, please.

0:35:050:35:08

Oh, that's lovely, thank you very much.

0:35:080:35:10

I was thinking about a daiquiri with some base rum.

0:35:140:35:18

I can't wait.

0:35:180:35:19

Then I add my sour balance, my lime juice, freshly squeezed.

0:35:190:35:24

Perhaps we can try.

0:35:270:35:29

Wow.

0:35:300:35:32

Finally, this is your mango daiquiri.

0:35:370:35:39

Mm.

0:35:440:35:45

Oh, it's absolutely fabulous.

0:35:450:35:47

But don't think for a minute that Aude's syrups

0:35:490:35:52

are solely for cocktails.

0:35:520:35:54

As a mark of their versatility, their fruity flavours

0:35:540:35:57

are incredibly popular with her three daughters.

0:35:570:36:00

It is pretty cool to have a mum who makes syrups, cos you have

0:36:000:36:03

waffles, cakes, ice creams and smoothies all the time.

0:36:030:36:06

Feeding kids is never easy, but with syrups

0:36:080:36:10

all manner of snacks can be knocked up at the drop of a hat,

0:36:100:36:14

whether it's adding a drop to a fruit smoothie

0:36:140:36:16

or drizzling on a waffle.

0:36:160:36:18

How many waffles are you going to have, guys?

0:36:180:36:21

My favourite syrup probably has to be pomegranate,

0:36:210:36:24

closely followed by strawberry and pineapple.

0:36:240:36:26

You get a strong flavour of pomegranate through the pomegranate

0:36:260:36:30

and it's just really sweet and really, like, pomegranate-y.

0:36:300:36:33

I love this milk shake.

0:36:330:36:35

Oh, good.

0:36:350:36:37

My favourite flavour is pineapple,

0:36:370:36:41

because it gives me a fizzy tongue.

0:36:410:36:43

-Mm.

-That is one of the most satisfying things to see,

0:36:450:36:49

is the kids enjoying the syrups like they do.

0:36:490:36:52

Ingredients that versatile are always a winner in my house

0:36:520:36:56

because they can be used in so many different ways,

0:36:560:36:58

keeping everybody happy.

0:36:580:37:00

My last two-from-one recipes are going to do the same,

0:37:030:37:06

using what I think is the most flexible

0:37:060:37:08

fruit of all - bananas.

0:37:080:37:10

I've got some families coming over later on,

0:37:130:37:15

and I'm going to serve a classic banana split for the kids

0:37:150:37:18

and a caramel coated banana

0:37:180:37:20

with passion fruit souffle for the adults.

0:37:200:37:22

There's one dish that reminds me

0:37:270:37:29

of my childhood more than any other and that's bananas and custard.

0:37:290:37:32

The flavour, I think we all know, is just superb.

0:37:320:37:36

But this dish takes it to another level.

0:37:360:37:38

I'm going to start off with the bananas for the splits.

0:37:390:37:42

I'm going to grill them with some fresh rosemary.

0:37:420:37:45

You want about four sprigs and then, just with a knife,

0:37:450:37:48

insert the rosemary in the top.

0:37:480:37:50

And you don't want anything too pungent,

0:37:500:37:54

because it'll put the kids off,

0:37:540:37:55

but I think just a little bit of rosemary, like this,

0:37:550:37:58

makes it really special, because the flavour and the smells you get

0:37:580:38:01

while it's cooking are just great.

0:38:010:38:03

These are put onto the grill for ten minutes.

0:38:040:38:07

That'll give me time to make the grown-up version

0:38:070:38:09

of this dessert.

0:38:090:38:10

We make a batter, first of all, using some cornflour,

0:38:100:38:15

a little bit of sugar and some fizzy water.

0:38:150:38:18

Just mix this together to form a nice little paste.

0:38:180:38:21

You just want some firm bananas for this

0:38:230:38:26

and then just trim these up, then coat them in the batter

0:38:260:38:30

and then deep fry these. You want the oil reasonably hot,

0:38:300:38:34

not too hot.

0:38:340:38:35

They'll only take a couple of minutes to cook

0:38:350:38:38

and, while that's happening, I can get the caramel going.

0:38:380:38:41

Don't use granulated sugar, it must be plain caster sugar.

0:38:430:38:46

Straight out of the pot,

0:38:460:38:47

no bits of tea and coffee stains in it, as well.

0:38:470:38:50

Very, very clean, otherwise your sugar will re-crystallise.

0:38:500:38:53

You'll know when you've gone wrong, because if you're still stood here

0:38:530:38:56

in about five minutes and it still looks like a big sugar lump,

0:38:560:38:59

you've got to throw it away and start again.

0:38:590:39:01

When the bananas are done, lift them out of the hot oil

0:39:020:39:04

and drain them off.

0:39:040:39:06

Now, the whole idea of this is to cook it without colour.

0:39:070:39:10

You're not frying fish and chips,

0:39:100:39:12

this is the first stage of the cooking.

0:39:120:39:14

The kids' bananas are ready to be flipped,

0:39:140:39:17

and I can turn my attention to the caramel.

0:39:170:39:19

You want to make sure it's nice and even caramel, with no lumps in it.

0:39:210:39:25

When the lumps have disappeared, and it's got a nice, even colour,

0:39:280:39:32

throw in some sesame seeds.

0:39:320:39:34

And now I can start dipping the bananas.

0:39:340:39:36

And then, with the spoon,

0:39:370:39:39

make sure it's fully coated in this caramel, so roll it around,

0:39:390:39:42

be really careful with this, because it's extremely hot,

0:39:420:39:46

and then when they come out of the caramel, into ice.

0:39:460:39:49

This will set the caramel immediately.

0:39:510:39:53

It's better to do one at a time, really.

0:39:530:39:55

You don't want all the bananas stuck in the pan,

0:39:550:39:58

otherwise it just ends up as one congealed, big lump.

0:39:580:40:02

A big mess in the bottom of the pan.

0:40:020:40:04

Once they're done, I can start making the souffles

0:40:040:40:07

by buttering some ramekins and coating the inside with sugar.

0:40:070:40:10

After that, get three egg whites, and start whisking them,

0:40:120:40:15

which is the most crucial part of making the souffle.

0:40:150:40:18

You have to get the right amount of air into them.

0:40:180:40:20

You can speed up the process

0:40:220:40:23

by using a pinch of salt, a little bit of sugar

0:40:230:40:26

but, really, just whisk this up so it's nice and firm.

0:40:260:40:28

Once they're fully whipped up like that,

0:40:300:40:32

should be nice and firm peaked, that way you're guaranteed

0:40:320:40:35

to get the maximum amount of air into the egg whites.

0:40:350:40:38

For our filling, I'm just going to use this ready-made custard

0:40:380:40:41

and you want about two, maybe three tablespoons for two souffles.

0:40:410:40:45

I've got some lovely passion fruit. Make sure when you're buying it,

0:40:450:40:48

buy it with a wrinkled skin, there's so much more juice

0:40:480:40:50

and flavour in there.

0:40:500:40:52

The old-fashioned way would be to stand here and cut and fold

0:40:520:40:56

and figure of eight, and 20 minutes later you're still messing around.

0:40:560:41:00

The whole point about a souffle,

0:41:000:41:01

and this is when you're working as a pastry chef in a restaurant,

0:41:010:41:04

you haven't got time to be doing that,

0:41:040:41:06

so you actually learn a quick method and that's just chuck it in.

0:41:060:41:11

The sooner it is in the oven, the better.

0:41:110:41:13

Using a palette knife, I'm creating a dome

0:41:150:41:18

over the top of the souffle.

0:41:180:41:19

Then, using my thumb, I'm making a frame around the edge, as well.

0:41:190:41:24

This will stop it going wonky when it rises.

0:41:240:41:27

Then, throw the whole lot in the oven

0:41:280:41:30

at 230 degrees centigrade for eight minutes.

0:41:300:41:33

The bananas on the griddle are done.

0:41:360:41:38

And I can feel inside they're bubbling inside, as well,

0:41:390:41:42

so they're lovely and hot, and then take a knife

0:41:420:41:44

and cut this down the middle,

0:41:440:41:46

and they almost steam in their own jackets, really,

0:41:460:41:49

it's just fantastic.

0:41:490:41:51

Pop a little bit of those on the plate and you've got another thing

0:41:510:41:54

which the kids will love, the passion fruit.

0:41:540:41:56

These have got a wonderful sweet flavour,

0:41:560:41:58

which I think the kids will love.

0:41:580:42:00

It doesn't matter how old you are, you've got to have some ice cream.

0:42:000:42:03

That's the kids' dessert done,

0:42:060:42:07

and the adult one is just about ready for serving.

0:42:070:42:11

Just a touch of the custard on the plate.

0:42:110:42:14

It's a chef's thing.

0:42:150:42:17

So often, people are put off by doing souffles at home,

0:42:170:42:20

purely the fact they think it's really complicated and difficult.

0:42:200:42:24

But, you're never going to know until you actually try to do it.

0:42:240:42:27

But, by using this ready-made custard, I think you end up

0:42:270:42:30

with just fantastic results every time.

0:42:300:42:33

Not bad, eh?

0:42:370:42:39

Icing sugar over the top.

0:42:420:42:43

Ever so carefully, lift these on, and there you have it.

0:42:450:42:48

Sesame caramel-coated bananas

0:42:490:42:51

with passion fruit souffle for the grown-ups

0:42:510:42:54

and barbecued rosemary bananas with passion fruit for the kids.

0:42:540:42:59

-There you go.

-Thank you very much.

0:42:590:43:01

The proof really is in the pudding, and this is a tough crowd.

0:43:010:43:06

Time to see what they think.

0:43:060:43:08

-Dive in, everybody.

-Ooh, this looks good.

0:43:080:43:10

Doesn't matter how old you are, you can still enjoy bananas and custard.

0:43:110:43:14

Of course you can.

0:43:140:43:16

With a little bit of thought, there are loads of simple ways

0:43:170:43:20

to make two different dishes from the same set of ingredients,

0:43:200:43:24

which will keep everybody happy around the dinner table.

0:43:240:43:27

You can find all the recipes from the series

0:43:300:43:32

on bbc.co.uk/food.

0:43:320:43:35

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