Episode 11 Rachel Allen: Home Cooking


Episode 11

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You can't beat home-cooked food.

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In this series, I'm going to make every meal you cook at home a real treat.

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Today, on Home Cooking, I'll show you how to poach salmon to perfection

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and share my recipe for quick hollandaise sauce.

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I meet Michelin-starred chef Daniel Galmiche

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and discover what his family love to eat at home.

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And I teach my cookery school family how to make

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two nutritious and healthy salads,

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one with spiced chicken and the other using left-over lamb.

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Poached salmon served with hollandaise sauce is a match made in heaven.

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And salmon lends itself so well to being poached

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because of its meatiness, and it's full of natural oils.

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I'm going to make a very quick and simple hollandaise sauce

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and cook some asparagus which is a fantastic accompaniment.

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I'll begin with the fish.

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And I have a really good, lovely fresh salmon.

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This salmon, I know it's really fresh and lovely.

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The eyes are bright and shiny.

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The skin is lovely and shiny and smooth. It doesn't smell strong.

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It smells almost sweet. It doesn't have a strong fishy smell.

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So I'm going to first of all remove the head.

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When you serve salmon with hollandaise sauce,

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the best way to cook it is to poach it.

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Turn it over and cut down on the other side.

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As close to the head as possible so you don't waste any meat.

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Use the head for fish stock.

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A great tip when you're poaching salmon, cut a piece that will fit

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really snugly into your saucepan,

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so if you've got a small piece of salmon sitting in a big pot of water,

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you'll lose lots of flavour.

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So cut right down through the bone, like that,

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then ease the salmon into the water,

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but I want to season the water with some salt.

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You need quite a bit of salt when cooking salmon in the poaching water.

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Bring the water...up to the boil.

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And once the water comes back to the boil,

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carefully pop your salmon in.

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OK. That's fitting good and snugly.

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It's completely covered in water which is important.

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We need to bring this water back to the boil,

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then turn the heat down because I just want it to simmer.

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I don't want it to boil vigorously.

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If it boils too much, the fish will disintegrate around the edges.

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So just have it at a good simmer for 20 minutes.

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While the salmon is cooking, I'm going to make a hollandaise sauce.

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I'm making a very simple hollandaise sauce

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that just uses egg yolks, butter and a bit of lemon juice.

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I'm making it using quite a foolproof method.

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There's some water simmering in the saucepan,

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so put the bowl into the saucepan

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and now I'm going to put two egg yolks into the bowl.

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And it's such a simple recipe. You just whisk the egg yolks in the bowl.

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Whisk in butter bit by bit.

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For every one egg yolk, use about two ounces or 50 grams of butter.

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Just whisk the butter in bit by bit.

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I normally add one or two pieces at a time.

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The butter is chilled from the fridge.

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If you allow the water to boil too much,

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you run the risk of splitting the hollandaise sauce

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or even scrambling it if it gets really hot.

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Can you see how the sauce is already emulsifying?

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It's already taking shape, looking creamy.

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Once I've whisked in all the butter, I just turn off the heat.

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Add a bit of lemon juice into your sauce.

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I want it to have a nice zing.

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Mmm! Oh, that's delicious. OK. That's the hollandaise sauce made.

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The hollandaise sauce will sit happily like this for a few hours. It can be made in advance.

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It needs to be kept at an evenly warm temperature

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just over the hot water in the saucepan like this.

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I'm going to add a little bit of cold water into this sauce

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just to thin it out a tiny bit,

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it's got quite thick from whisking.

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I want it to be a really smooth coating consistency. Just...

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like that. Yum!

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Now, the salmon has been cooking for 20 minutes.

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So I'm going to turn off the heat under the salmon

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and allow it just to sit in the hot water for about another five minutes.

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I'm going to prepare the asparagus.

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I have lovely asparagus stalks or spears here.

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You need to remove the tough, woody end.

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So wherever it snaps at the end, that's where it is to be trimmed.

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If you like, you can just trim the ends of the asparagus,

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like that, after it's been snapped.

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I'm going to put the asparagus in to cook.

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The water has come up to the boil.

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Just add in a pinch of salt.

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Cook the asparagus in the boiling salted water just for a few minutes until it softens.

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While the asparagus is cooking, I can take the salmon out of the water.

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So really gently take it out of the water

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and sit it on a plate.

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If you've got a while before you're going to serve the salmon,

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do not peel the skin off because the skin will keep all the steam in there

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and keep the salmon really lovely and juicy, which poached salmon is.

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It's going to be juicy, succulent, delicate and absolutely fantastic.

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The asparagus is very nearly cooked.

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So, I know it's time for me to peel the salmon.

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The skin will lift off really easily, like this, as you can see.

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And the salmon naturally divides itself into segments, into portions.

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It's lifting off the bone easily, so it's beautifully cooked.

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Make sure the salmon is sitting on a warm serving plate.

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Now, the asparagus is ready to come out.

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A knife is just going through it easily.

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Pop the asparagus back into the pan.

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Just add a little bit of butter into the pan.

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Serve the asparagus. I like it all facing in the one direction.

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A little wedge of lemon on the plate will be good.

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A nice sprig of dill or fennel, bit of flat parsley. This is dill.

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And lastly, a really gorgeous spoonful of hollandaise sauce.

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So there. Poached salmon with hollandaise sauce and asparagus.

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Delicious.

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Today's cookery school students are the Hough family from Hampshire.

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Son Martin is off to university this year

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and wants ideas for healthy, cheap recipes to take with him.

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Today, we are going to be making some salads. A chicken salad.

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It's spiced chicken, so I'll use some spices.

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And we're going to serve this with really lovely tzatziki.

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The other salad is a lamb salad

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and in this we have beans, olives, feta cheese.

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It's also got a redcurrant jelly dressing which will be lovely.

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I'd like to cook something healthier, more nutritious for us,

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that we're all going to enjoy.

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It would be better to lose weight before I go to uni

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so the more healthier foods I learn to the cook, the better.

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First, we should get started on using the spices

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for the marinade for the chicken. Martin, do you like spices?

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-Er, not really.

-OK.

-I'm not a spice person.

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-Is it the heat of the spice?

-Yeah. The heat usually.

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This actually could be quite a good introduction

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because the cumin, paprika and turmeric are not hot,

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but it's the cayenne that's a little bit hot.

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So maybe if you wanted to go easy on the cayenne.

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-Mm-mm.

-I'm determined to get you to like spices. By the end of today, you're going to love spices!

-OK.

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I'll take two teaspoons of cumin seeds.

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Just let them toast.

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They cook for 30 seconds to a minute.

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So it's just a dry pan. There's no oil or anything else in here.

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It's a great idea if you can buy the cumin seeds whole.

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Toast them and grind them yourself.

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You will get much better flavour than buying ready-ground cumin because cumin seeds go stale quickly.

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There's a bit of smoke coming from them.

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They've turned a couple of shades darker and we can crush the spices.

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The smells you will get when you're crushing the cumin seeds, really just amazing.

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Just brush out the spices like this.

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We've got two teaspoons of cumin seeds, so we need the same amount of paprika.

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This gives it fantastic colour actually.

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The next spice is turmeric.

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So another two teaspoons of this.

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And cayenne pepper. And really just about a quarter to half a teaspoon.

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-Is there any in there?

-Yeah!

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Grate two cloves of garlic and cut your lemon in half and juice your lemons.

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This is a very healthy marinade, actually.

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Really, really good at full-on flavour, very low in fat, really good and healthy.

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Maybe a mean teaspoon of salt.

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And just about quarter to half a teaspoon of sugar.

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It just balances the flavours really nicely. And some pepper.

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Put in our lemon juice and just a tablespoon or two of oil.

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OK, that's the marinade prepared.

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So if you want to all cut up the chicken into finger-size pieces,

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then just throw the chicken into the marinade and that's it, that's ready.

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So let's put them into the fridge here, and we'll wash our hands.

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When I go to college and then university, I'll be in the same situation as Martin

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where I'll end up cooking for myself.

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So I'd like to learn how to cook proper meals rather than on-the-go foods.

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Let's get on with the lamb salad.

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We've got these gorgeous leaves here,

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a mixture of mizunas and mibunas... and rocket and nasturtium leaves.

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But also, because of the Greek theme, we'll put in some mint leaves

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That will give the salad a lovely fresh flavour.

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So tear the leaves off the stalks and I might ask you, girls,

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just to tear a little bit, say, smallish leaves of the lollo lettuce.

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And then we can add all these greens in together.

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Always be light-handed with salad leaves because it bruises easily.

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That's plenty, that's great.

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And into the fridge.

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While the salad leaves are sitting happily in the fridge,

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we'll make a dressing using redcurrant jelly.

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This gives you a lovely, slightly sweet dressing

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which works really well with the salty feta, intense olives,

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and the lovely beans we're going to be using.

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So into the redcurrant jelly we're going to add just two

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quite small teaspoons of red wine vinegar.

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So a few tablespoons of olive oil.

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Use a really good extra virgin olive oil, best for our health and also best for flavour.

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Add some crunchy sea salt which you can crumble in.

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And some pepper. So we just need to whisk this.

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And... that's the salad dressing made.

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Now next thing we need to do is just prepare some olives.

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Do try and buy them, for the best flavour, with the stones in.

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With the flat side of the knife, just bash it,

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so the stone comes out easily, like that.

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A good bash, Martin.

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Get in there! Yes!

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And then you just break the olive in half for this salad. OK?

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Next, pop in the cooked, drained cannellini beans into the olives.

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Crumble the feta cheese in, in nice large pieces. Chunks of feta.

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OK. Next, we need to slice the left-over roast lamb.

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This is what's called a "mise en place" - getting all the bits prepared.

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That's that salad prepared.

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All we need to do is throw it together at the last minute.

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Later, we'll see if the Houghs' salads are a hit with the family.

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Coming up, chef Daniel Galmiche welcomes me into his home

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to share a family lunch of slow-cooked lamb.

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And the Hough family put the finishing touches

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to their healthy but very tasty salads.

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Charismatic French chef Daniel Galmiche has won three Michelin stars

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during his 18-year career and is currently cooking up a storm

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at the Forbury Hotel in Reading,

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where he offers a Mediterranean menu and contemporary French food.

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Brought up on an organic farm in eastern France, Daniel was born into

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a world of fresh produce and is passionate about recreating this in both his restaurants.

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OK, service, please!

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But does his passion for French cuisine continue at home?

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I went round to discover his family piece de resistance.

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-How are you?

-Very good, very good.

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-This is Claire, my partner.

-Hi, Claire, how are you?

-Well, thank you.

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Ah, here's the boy.

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-Antoine.

-Here's...

-Hello, Antoine. Bonjour.

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-Dis bonjour a Rachel.

-Bonjour, Antoine.

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-Hello.

-So today it's only English for me.

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-You always speak French with each other?

-Yeah, absolutely.

-Antoine, where do you live?

-In Scotland.

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-So he comes for holiday every about five weeks.

-Yeah?

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-Don't tell me you want to be a chef.

-I do.

-Do you do?

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-Did you want to be a chef when you were little?

-Yes.

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When I was young at my grandma's kitchen, I said the same,

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-so it's quite bizarre.

-Really. Great. Let's get to it!

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Et voila, this is my kitchen.

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-OK.

-OK. So today we're going to do a shoulder of lamb, roasted, and some ratatouille.

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-Mmm!

-And confit of aubergine. So it's a small shoulder of lamb marinated with olive oil, garlic,

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a bit of thyme, sea salt and black pepper, and we're going to roast it now.

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-So is this a family favourite?

-Yes, it's one of them

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-but it's what we cook when Antoine is home.

-OK, he loves it?

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Yes, everybody loves it, we just tuck in and good stuff, yeah.

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OK, so now we can cover it. But I don't cover it completely.

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Just leave it there cos I don't want it to braise. OK.

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-OK.

-And when I need to, I just add a little bit more of lamb stock.

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-This is going to be divine.

-Yeah, it's made good already.

-Yeah, it's smells amazing.

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I'm really looking forward to it.

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-OK, so now we're going to leave that to cook for about an hour and 20, an hour 30 minute.

-OK.

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-Now we should go in the garden and chop veg for the ratatouille. Shall we?

-Fantastic.

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So, Antoine, will you do a courgette for me?

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OK. Rachel, do you want to do the pepper?

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-Yeah, sure.

-And I do the tomatoes.

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So who inspired you to cook in the first place, Daniel?

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My mum and officially my grandma, that was the biggest influence,

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because there was always something ready. She had a small farm and we went there every weekend.

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It was like a tradition almost and we knew always there was something to eat

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and the smell always drew me, in the kitchen.

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And she used to go in the orchard, collect the apples, the apricots from the tree, everything was there.

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-It sounds like an amazing childhood you had.

-I've been very lucky.

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-OK.

-Let's go and cook it.

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OK, everything for the ratatouille is done. We're going to do the aubergine confit.

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-Put them in the oven.

-OK.

-OK?

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-Lovely.

-There you go.

-Going to drizzle that on top.

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Actually, with Claire being half-Italian,

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I can tell you just now, olive oil doesn't last very long in here.

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-In this house.

-Some pepper.

-Are you into quite healthy eating?

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Always. Mostly I would say it was olive oil, actually.

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We use very little butter... for a French guy.

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Bit of garlic as well, and I don't mind, I always leave the...

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-All the papery skins.

-Yeah, I think it's no worries.

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We let them cook for 40 minutes, about moderate, then we leave them until they're completely confit

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and now we'll do the ratatouille.

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Onion. So I choose red onion because I really like the flavour

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of red onion because it's a bit of sweetness in it.

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Add the pepper to it as well, red pepper. Next we're going to put the courgette.

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-OK.

-we've got quite a lot. I think Antoine's been a good helper.

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-Nice colour that.

-Yeah, great colour.

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That's why I like simple food with good produce in summer

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because the colours straightaway just... They just make you happy.

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-Yeah.

-It's kind of happy cooking. So I'm going to cover the ratatouille now.

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We'll leave it at low heat. OK.

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And that's it. Then, 10 minutes before it's ready, we add the tomato

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-and chopped garlic, with chopped parsley, to finish it.

-OK.

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OK.

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Mmm!

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-Smells lovely, no?

-Oh, that looks great!

-It's all the garlic.

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That looks gorgeous.

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That is so, so good, Daniel.

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-Thank you very much.

-Claire, is this the kind of food you love?

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I do, I love Mediterranean food.

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I tend to cook Italian food more myself cos I'm half-Italian.

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-Does she cook a nice Italian, good pasta?

-Sometimes.

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-Who does the best spaghetti bolognaise?

-Claire!

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-Good answer.

-Claire won hands down.

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I gave up on that one.

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-Daniel's taught me to cook actually quite well.

-Has he?

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I've got lots of tips since I've been with Daniel.

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-Do you do most of the cooking at home, Claire?

-No, not most of it.

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I know when I'm beaten.

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-Cheers!

-Thank you so much, this has been lovely. Cheers.

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Now, it's back to cookery school

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and the Hough family put their marinated chicken into the oven.

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Just put a little, small drizzle of oil onto the tray.

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You can put a little drizzle on, Becky.

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Ooh! That's enough.

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Great.

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So let's spread the chicken and all the marinade in the bowl

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out all in a single layer out on the tray.

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OK, let's put our chicken in to cook.

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These pieces of chicken go into an oven at about 200 degrees,

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they're only going to really take about 10, 15 minutes. OK?

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Concerns I have at the moment with the children is because they're rushing in and out,

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they're just picking up rubbish food, trashy food, just for the sake of eating something.

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And that's not healthy.

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While the chicken is cooking, let's make the tzatziki.

0:18:400:18:43

Tzatziki is a little Greek cucumber yogurt, very garlicky sauce.

0:18:430:18:49

We all need some cucumber. Cut it into small cubes.

0:18:490:18:53

So cut it into pieces about half a centimetre thick.

0:18:540:18:58

Good girl, Becky.

0:18:580:18:59

Let's add the yogurt.

0:19:000:19:03

You've got natural yogurt there.

0:19:030:19:06

And then grate in the clove of garlic.

0:19:060:19:09

And just a little bit of lemon zest.

0:19:090:19:11

Cut the lemon in half and you can squeeze some juice in with your hand.

0:19:110:19:15

Stir it around and they will take some sea salt. Give it a good stir.

0:19:150:19:20

OK. That's the tzatziki ready. Let's take the chicken out of the oven.

0:19:200:19:24

Smells good, doesn't it?

0:19:240:19:26

Now, we'll just set the chicken there while we get the rest of this salad ready.

0:19:280:19:34

Would you like to just break up quite a bit of this cos lettuce?

0:19:350:19:39

And would you guys over here like to cut up some tomatoes?

0:19:390:19:43

So, scatter the red onion over the salad.

0:19:430:19:46

Look at this great colour.

0:19:460:19:50

Some great sea salt.

0:19:500:19:51

Freshly ground black pepper.

0:19:510:19:53

Place all the pieces of chicken over the top.

0:19:530:19:57

-Looks really good.

-Smells quite nice as well.

0:19:570:20:00

-Does it smell nice, Martin?

-Yeah.

-He might be converted!

0:20:000:20:04

You might still eat something spicy. Great!

0:20:040:20:06

And I'm going to drizzle it with lots of tzatziki.

0:20:060:20:11

A few little mint leaves.

0:20:110:20:13

So that's our lovely spiced chicken salad with tzatziki.

0:20:130:20:17

Next thing we need to do is assemble the lamb salad.

0:20:170:20:20

We have all got our lovely dressing and lamb, feta, beans and olives.

0:20:200:20:25

So if you want to take some of your dressing, not all of it,

0:20:250:20:29

drizzle in enough to just cover all these ingredients

0:20:290:20:33

just with a lovely light coating of dressing.

0:20:330:20:36

Add in maybe a pinch of sea salt. Some pepper if you like.

0:20:360:20:40

Green leaves.

0:20:400:20:42

Great.

0:20:430:20:44

OK, do you want to bring over your lamb, olives, feta, bean mixture

0:20:460:20:49

and we can scatter it and then give it a little tease again.

0:20:490:20:53

-My salads are so boring but these look very interesting. They just say, "Eat me".

-Oh, good!

0:20:530:20:58

Hey. So this is the fun part. We can sit down...

0:21:000:21:04

and enjoy the fruits of our labours.

0:21:040:21:07

Mmm!

0:21:070:21:09

-Oh, the lamb's beautiful.

-Martin?

-I can take it,

0:21:160:21:20

but it's still a little tingly in the mouth.

0:21:200:21:23

That's good. We're halfway there.

0:21:230:21:25

Oh, that's a big improvement from earlier.

0:21:250:21:29

I enjoyed making the salads because it's healthier for me

0:21:290:21:32

and it's also something I could do at uni.

0:21:320:21:35

-What do you think, Becky?

-The chicken's spicy, but it's too nice, I can't stop eating.

0:21:350:21:39

-Well, there's a compliment.

-That's good.

0:21:390:21:43

-What is nice is the spice with the tzatziki, it's um...

-Mmm!

-The combination is lovely.

0:21:430:21:48

I've learnt that you can really jazz salads up. They don't have to be boring lettuce on a plate.

0:21:480:21:53

I've also learnt that all five of us will eat those

0:21:530:21:56

and also learning about marinating meat to make it more flavoursome,

0:21:560:22:00

turning a piece of chicken into something quite delicious.

0:22:000:22:04

I think you've all done a fantastic job.

0:22:040:22:06

This is delicious. Thank you.

0:22:060:22:08

-Thank you.

-Thank you!

0:22:080:22:10

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