Provence Raymond Blanc: The Very Hungry Frenchman


Provence

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Raymond Blanc arrived in Britain in 1972 as a 22-year-old

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unemployed French waiter,

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with only a shaky grasp of English.

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Ten years later, he was a chef with two Michelin stars,

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which he still holds today.

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Good texture. Lovely, lovely.

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While he has been successful in his adopted home,

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he has never forgotten his first love...

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Food, food, glorious food! My God!

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..the food and wine of France.

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Beautiful!

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Now Raymond is back to his favourite French regions

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so that he can reconnect with the wonderful food and people

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that have inspired him.

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Ah, voila!

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Woah-ho-ho! Ooh, la, la!

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The flavour is intense.

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Just...

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melting.

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In each region, he will take over a restaurant for one night only...

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-Oh, la, la!

-..and cook a feast inspired by his journey.

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My beautiful Franche-Comte.

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He will be serving a menu that features his version

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of famous local dishes.

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Helping the master in his homeland will be two lucky young chefs

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from his restaurant in Oxfordshire -

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-Kush and Katie-Beth.

-Oh, la, la! Oh, la, la!

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Despite 30 years at the top in the UK,

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this will be the first time Raymond has had a chance to be Chef

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in France.

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I've never cooked in France and I'm slightly, slightly anxious.

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Ooh, la, la! Stop it!

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Stop, stop, stop! Don't go up!

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It's a daunting, nerve-wracking and exciting task,

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but one perfectly suited to Raymond Blanc -

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the very hungry Frenchman.

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Provence. It's the good life.

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Enough sunshine to bless outside living and temperate enough

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for a simple larder to flourish from the rugged landscape.

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When all the flavours of the area come together,

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the bright tomatoes,

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fruity olive oils, the fresh garlic and aromatic herbs,

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then you have a region so clear in its culinary identity,

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it sums up a lifestyle - Provencal.

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The region covers a vast area stretching all the way

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from the High Alps on the Italian border,

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to the glittering Mediterranean Sea in the south.

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Provence is drenched with sun, drenched with light pouring in.

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It's hot.

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You see sometimes the sun, the light, dazzling,

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dancing on the flora.

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It's a region that the French love. It's a region that the British love.

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It's certainly a region that I love.

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Amongst the experiences that have inspired Raymond Blanc's passion for food and cooking,

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few can rival his first visit to Provence as a 14-year-old boy

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from the cooler, landlocked region of Franche-Comte,

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some 400 miles to the north.

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It was an extraordinary moment when I discovered Provence.

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The sky was so different! It was blue, it was immense.

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Just amazed by the difference.

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The lavender, the rosemary, the "anis", the fennel everywhere.

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Even the fish looked different.

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They were spiky and red, totally different from what I'd known before.

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The taste, mostly the tastes were different.

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Suddenly, the garlic, the "basilic", the tomatoes, the olive oil!

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I used butter. Here I discovered olive oil. I didn't know olive oil.

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The textures were so incredibly different,

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that I could've been onto another planet.

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Raymond has remained fascinated with the region, and for him,

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there is no better way to remind himself of his early

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love affair with the food,

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than to drop in at a quayside restaurant

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and savour the flavours of Provence with an appetiser.

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You've got wonderful flavours from the earth, from the soil of Provence,

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like these delicious red peppers, which are just simply roasted.

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A little spread of olive oil, that's it! That's plenty.

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Now you've got a lovely tapenade, OK?

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And tapenade is so easy because it's just simply black olives

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which are pureed. Delicious.

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That is a beautiful dish. It's called caviar of aubergine.

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Of course, it's got nothing to do with caviar.

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A bit mean on the olive oil as well, but not mean on the garlic.

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That one is absolutely reeking of garlic!

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You have all of France in here! My God, you've got all the garlic of France in here!

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Those things are there to tease you.

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Tease the appetite, that's all.

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To make you salivate,

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make sure those gastric juices stir faster and faster and faster.

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It's a process, eating. You've got to prepare yourself.

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You've got to find the right place,

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the right wine and you feel good, and then you start enjoying yourself.

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For Raymond, wherever he's chef, it's the enjoyment of his guests

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that remains, for him, the joy of cooking.

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And for the next few days in Provence, his journey will deliver just that,

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as he becomes inspired by the region

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that entertained his young taste buds,

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and pulls together a Provencal feast,

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as he draws on old memories, eats with great friends...

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Woah-ho-ho! Ooh, la, la!

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..discovers new wines...

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This one, it is incredible!

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People are going to be so happy.

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..and tastes a cornucopia of Provencal life...

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Tres, tres, tres special! How lucky you are!

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You have all this fantastic fish!

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..all grown under a warming Mediterranean sky.

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Oh, la, la! Oh, la, la!

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With his Provencal ingredients gathered, Raymond will host,

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for one night only, in a local restaurant,

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his interpretation of a regional menu,

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-with just two young chefs from England to help - Kush...

-Ready, Chef!

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..and Katie-Beth.

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More flavour! More flavour!

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They are beautiful but, come on, don't be so mean, for God's sake!

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Yes, Chef!

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I feel a little bit of nerves.

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Part of me loves it and part of me is anxious. Always a bit of anxiety!

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The magical way you can sit next to the Mediterranean

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and eat the fruits of the sea, sum up life in Provence for Raymond.

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To capture the essence of the best in Provence,

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Raymond has decided to start in Marseilles,

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and drop in on good friend Gerald Passedat

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to see how a local chef

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with three Michelin stars gets the best flavours of the Med on a plate.

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Gerald's innovative food is immersed in the sea,

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from the terrace where you eat to the restaurant's own quay,

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where the fresh catch is landed.

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So I think it's fantastic. That man is lucky,

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because he's got his restaurant up there

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and he's got the fishermen down there,

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and they bring the fish to him every day.

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So the fish is very fresh here.

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-Tres bien.

-Mackereau. Little dorade, like that.

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John Dory? Oh, il est joli.

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St Peter put his fingerprint on this fish so it's a blessed fish.

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Mon pauvre, ca fait mal, hein?

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He hooked himself! The fisherman hooked himself, poor man.

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I don't want to laugh about his ill fortune experience.

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Tres bien. I think he's got a lovely girelle there.

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-Girelle royale.

-Elle est jolie, elle est jolie. That's a beautiful fish for bouillabaisse.

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These little fish won't be finding their way onto Gerald's menu -

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this fisherman is catching his lunch.

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This man is actually fishing his fish soup, that's what he does.

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At lunch he will go home, it will take him five minutes.

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He will use the fish whole, leave all the insides,

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chop it up with a bit of onions, a bit of tomato,

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a bit of garlic, fennel, a dash of white wine, water.

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Cover it, bring to the boil, puree, strain, serve.

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A lot of oil, garlic, lots of garlic, beautiful aioli. Et des croutons, hein?

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Whether the fisherman takes Raymond's recipe tip or not,

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it's the excitement of the fresh fish delivery

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that draws them into Gerald's busy kitchen.

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Messieurs, bonsoir! Bonjour, comment ca va?

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As fish is the basis for much of Gerald's cooking,

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it's no surprise he has perfected a local dish, bouillabaisse,

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A fish stew with a deep, rich liquor base.

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-So, you don't empty them? You just put it all in, everything?

-Oui.

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So that's a base for your bouillabaisse.

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Every day for the bouillabaisse, you can't keep it in the fridge.

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The bouillabaisse has been famous in the region for years

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and is often interpreted by both chefs and home cooks.

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Gerald is keen to show Raymond his Michelin-starred version.

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For the fish stock, a local catch,

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to which Gerald adds a dash of cognac and pernod.

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A little bit cognac.

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-Then the essential aromats of Provence.

-What do you have?

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Fennel.

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-Orange.

-Orange.

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-A little bouquet garni.

-Tomatoes, onion.

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Look at these colours. Already, so beautiful.

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Just chop the garlic, of course. A lot of garlic. We love our garlic!

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-When it's cooked, it's better.

-Fantastic. C'est merveilleux.

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To this, a few spices - star anise, fennel and chilli,

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and for liquid, water.

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Not just any water.

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I always add two spoons of sea water.

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The Mediterranean is such a good water, clean water

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that I can put it in my soup?

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-And it boils anyway.

-OK.

-The Mediterranean is good.

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He's seasoning effectively his soup with sea water. Brilliant, very clever.

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It's lovely. All these flavours have melted together.

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An incredible action between the sea, the air, the spices, the herbs.

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It's incredible.

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It's cuisine completely influenced by North Africa,

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all the spice trade coming to Marseilles.

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All the traders and with it, new recipes, new ideas,

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but they are lucky.

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They are really lucky to have all these fantastic fish.

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This base is merely a canvas on which Gerald's bouillabaisse is painted.

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He's truly raised this dish to an art form.

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Oh, la, la. Oh, la, la!

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Stunning. That... I understand now.

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I think that's the best bouillabaisse I've tasted, actually.

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-It's traditional to serve a spicy sauce on the side.

-A little bit.

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Whoa! Oh, la, la. Oh, that is very spicy.

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That is North Africa, completely.

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I'm on the other side of the Mediterranean.

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Time for Raymond to solicit a little local advice

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about putting a Provencal menu together.

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I think very simple recipes with olive oil first.

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"Basilic"?

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-Basilicum, yes.

-Garlic?

-Yes, garlic.

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-What else?

-Tomatoes.

-Tomatoes.

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-And what else?

-And fish.

-And fish.

-And no cream. And no butter.

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And a lot of wine.

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-A lot of wine and a lot of sun.

-A lot of sun, of course.

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-The sun, the light.

-Light.

-Brings the light. We'll pay for the light.

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-That sounds lovely. Merci. Merci bien.

-Thank you, thank you.

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It's over 20 years since the classic book A Year in Provence

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summed up the idea of living

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a romantic, simple Provencal life for a generation of Brits.

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Soaking up the atmosphere of this region is easy,

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but after his visit to Gerald's three-star kitchen,

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Raymond can see that the food game can have high stakes in Provence,

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something he will need to aspire to for his feast for locals.

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His long relationship with Provence has always been mental fuel

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for Raymond, so it's no surprise when the sight of a wild herb

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stops him in his tracks and reminds him of a past cheffing experience.

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It's incredible because when I see this fennel,

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that's also the first taste of Provence for me.

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I stopped. I came with my family in a very old van, OK.

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I stopped and I picked up all this fennel

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and I bagged it all up in big handfuls in the boot of the car.

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The whole family hated me, especially my wife, of course.

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She couldn't bear the smell of fennel, but to me, that is Provence.

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I picked up rosemary and I picked up lavender. Wild lavender.

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I picked up all sorts of wild thymes. It's incredible.

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If you knew the smell of this fennel, it is incredible.

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On that very simple recipe, quick one, you just cut it off,

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roasted fish on top, a bit of olive oil, in the oven,

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and you've got the most incredible recipe.

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Remember, always take expert guidance

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if you're going to forage in the wild.

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With the air perfumed by fennel and the memories of Gerald's advice on local fish,

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Raymond is headed to the town of Sanary-sur-Mer and the restaurant

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he's chosen to locate his feast, La P'tite Cour - the little courtyard.

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-I think you'll like it.

-OK.

-Shall we go, guys? Allez.

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With people coming to eat in a few days' time,

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he needs to start finalising his menu and organising the kitchen.

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-Rosemary and lavender?

-No, Chef.

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I love the idea of people having a feast here.

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That's what food is all about,

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to create a feast for people you don't even know, but who cares!

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It's the joy that produces chefs, creating a moment which people

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hopefully will never forget, and that's lovely.

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I feel happy. I feel very happy. Yeah.

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Being situated on the sea, the town has a gem for Raymond -

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a fish market.

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With all the local inspiration, he settles on a main course -

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fish on a bed of roasted fennel with an intense red wine jus.

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Innovate flavours that sing of Provence.

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Bonjour, bonjour!

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To balance the dish, he needs a fish with a robust flavour.

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-C'est le pageau?

-Non, dente.

-Oh, vous l'avez trouve? Parfait.

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That's the local fish that you can only find in the waters here,

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it's called dente. Why?

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Look at his teeth! Serious, eh? Wonderful meaty flesh.

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That is a perfect fish for roasting.

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What I want to create is a fish with red wine. Red wine jus,

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because that's very daring.

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Usually, people associate fish with white wine.

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Red wine with meat and with cheese.

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I will buy it now and try it later.

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-C'est combien, le dente? Le poids, le dente?

-28.

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Back in the kitchen, he sets to work on his new dish.

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Tough! Tough guy!

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A bit of a small guy, but a good, solid strengths.

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It's the first time Raymond has cooked this fish so he's interested to find out about its character.

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It looks like bream in terms of colour, but I think it'll be firmer.

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It's a local fish which moves around Sanary

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so it's very local to this particular area.

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First, Raymond sautees the fish bones from the dente in olive oil.

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-A bit of liquorice.

-Then, he adds a little liquorice root.

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Its flavour echoes the fennel Raymond will be serving with the fish.

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All the aniseed flavours are in the sauce, a great deal of Provence.

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Next, some chopped red onion, garlic and butter mushrooms.

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Voila! These mushrooms are going to round up the flavour.

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All these ingredients provide the base for an unusual red wine sauce.

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I'm going to serve with the fish some red wine, OK?

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They are not used to it here.

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Normally, you do fish with white wine and meat with red wine,

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maybe they are going to throw me out back into the sea! We'll see how it goes.

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Next, it's the key ingredient - a full bodied red wine.

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That is the richness I want.

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-See, you can taste it.

-It's quite strong.

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Hein? Serieux, hein? Oh, la la!

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But that's what we want. It's perfect for cooking.

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There you can see the Provence wine which has a lot of alcohol.

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It'll burn like that for ten minutes! HE LAUGHS

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-The reduced red wine is added to the fish bones.

-Kush, the strainer.

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Oui, Chef.

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That's a big strainer, OK.

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-Big is beautiful.

-Chef!

-You press!

-Chef!

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Voila! And there, you've got a lovely jus.

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The jus is set aside, ready to be reduced to an essence.

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As well as the red wine essence, Raymond is going to serve the fish

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with the fennel cooked in two ways. The first, he called Fennel Flames.

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Chefs are quite creative people.

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It's just as a shape of flames, as simple as that.

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It's got texture and loads of flavour.

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The fennel flames are going to be braised with fresh garlic and spices...

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Don't get emotional about your garlic!

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..and a generous helping of Provencal herbs.

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-Star anise.

-And water?

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Once braised, the fennel flames are caramelised.

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The fennel trimmings have been pureed.

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Raymond has decided to simply pan fry the seasoned dente,

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skin side down in a hot pan.

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The fish slice. Voila!

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Nice combination.

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OK, in the oven.

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Two minutes and it will be ready to serve.

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A bit of lemon juice.

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With all the elements ready, time to think about the presentation.

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-Voila, yeah!

-The fennel puree goes first.

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Voila! Beautiful!

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Then the fennel flame.

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-Really lovely. Beautiful.

-And then the dente.

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A warm garnish of chick peas, broad beans and tomatoes

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provide flavour, texture and Provencal colour.

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-And the jus red wine.

-Oui, Chef!

-Tres bien!

0:19:010:19:04

Now, for the red wine sauce which has been thickened

0:19:040:19:07

and reduced to a glossy essence.

0:19:070:19:10

It's a dish he hopes his local guests will love.

0:19:100:19:13

I'm happy! I know I'm happy. I feel like Papa Blanc now.

0:19:130:19:17

I'm feeding my children. Voila!

0:19:170:19:21

It's lovely. It's lovely. It's fresh.

0:19:240:19:27

More caraway in the point..

0:19:270:19:30

chick peas, but it's lovely.

0:19:300:19:34

Breaking the rules even further,

0:19:390:19:41

Raymond is also serving a red wine to drink with his fish dish.

0:19:410:19:45

He's hoping a local vineyard will have a red wine to harmonise with the fish.

0:19:490:19:54

So, he heads for the hills seeking a renowned winemaker.

0:19:540:19:57

The red wine Chateau du Pibarnon is exceptional

0:19:570:20:01

and Raymond has come to see the owner, Eric de Saint-Victor.

0:20:010:20:06

So, are these grapes ready to harvest?

0:20:060:20:10

First of all, what we do is like everybody else,

0:20:100:20:14

taste the grapes and we are looking at the seeds

0:20:140:20:17

to see if the seeds are brown and not too green.

0:20:170:20:21

-They are brown.

-And see if the skin breaks with the teeth.

0:20:220:20:28

No earthiness in the skin

0:20:280:20:30

so this means that the wines

0:20:300:20:34

will be smooth, well balanced, nice tannins and so on.

0:20:340:20:38

The seeds are just like coffee seeds, you know, it breaks...

0:20:380:20:43

If I was a "vigneron" - I'm not a vigneron, I'm only a chef -

0:20:430:20:48

I would harvest now. I would harvest now - wrong or right?

0:20:480:20:52

You are absolutely right because the wild boar, you know,

0:20:520:20:56

is starting to eat them.

0:20:560:20:58

-It's our biggest challenge and they never make a mistake.

-No.

0:20:580:21:03

What they take is ripe, you can make sure. It's sure!

0:21:030:21:05

You look like that... You don't look like a boar!

0:21:050:21:09

The ground the vineyard stands on, the terroir, is full of limestone

0:21:100:21:14

and Eric thinks that's highly significant.

0:21:140:21:18

It gives a sort of almost a bit of...

0:21:190:21:23

In the red wine, some elegance,

0:21:230:21:25

something quite, erm... I don't know it in English.

0:21:250:21:29

En francais, de la seve, you know?

0:21:290:21:32

-Juice.

-Juicy!

-Sap!

0:21:320:21:34

-Exactly, sap! Yes. Voila!

-Sap.

0:21:340:21:37

Sap is very important for me in the wine

0:21:370:21:39

because during the tasting, if you have some sap,

0:21:390:21:42

then you can think about matching the red wine and fish.

0:21:420:21:47

And that's the key to it for Raymond as he wants to serve a red wine,

0:21:490:21:53

not just as a jus, but to drink with his fish dish.

0:21:530:21:57

White wine, fish.

0:21:570:21:59

Red wine, cheese.

0:21:590:22:01

It's prejudice. It's all wrong because red wine doesn't go at all.

0:22:010:22:06

I believe very much that the wine produced in a place

0:22:060:22:09

goes very well with the food around it.

0:22:090:22:12

It's a matter of the flesh of the wine,

0:22:120:22:15

-the sap that we are talking about...

-A lovely word.

0:22:150:22:18

..is very important to match with the fish.

0:22:180:22:22

-You need a strong texture to go with the red wine.

-Yes, definitely.

0:22:220:22:27

What I'd like to do, what I propose to do, Eric,

0:22:270:22:30

I would like to go in your cellar...

0:22:300:22:32

-OK.

-..so we can assess if it goes or not. Shall we?

-Sure.

0:22:320:22:36

Back at the chateau, Marie, the winemaker here,

0:22:360:22:40

has looked out a 1990 bottle for Raymond to sample.

0:22:400:22:44

Eric used to call it the Latin lover, this wine.

0:22:470:22:49

When it was young, now it's an intelligent Latin lover!

0:22:490:22:54

Be careful it doesn't get too old!

0:22:540:22:57

I am really curious, really seriously curious

0:22:590:23:02

to see how this 1990 has aged.

0:23:020:23:05

Will it have melted well enough

0:23:050:23:08

to just accompany a great dish?

0:23:080:23:11

The colour! Look at that colour!

0:23:110:23:14

Just listen to the wine.

0:23:140:23:16

He's whispering right now, but...

0:23:170:23:19

Red like the blood of Christ.

0:23:210:23:24

It's a true communion, no?

0:23:240:23:26

This wine, 1990, it is incredibly good.

0:23:410:23:45

People are going to be so happy.

0:23:450:23:48

It is special.

0:23:480:23:49

With the special wine in the trunk and the main dish up to Raymond's culinary demands,

0:23:510:23:56

the fruits of Provence are happily steering his menu.

0:23:560:24:00

Raymond's faith in local delights, leads him to seek out a vegetable unique to the area -

0:24:000:24:06

the Viola de Provence, a variety of artichoke.

0:24:060:24:10

Raymond is going to use this local treasure to make barigoule,

0:24:100:24:15

a traditional artichoke dish.

0:24:150:24:17

This local artichoke is much finer and sweeter

0:24:190:24:21

than the Brittany variety common to UK supermarkets.

0:24:210:24:24

-How many are we going to need, Chef?

-We need about 40.

0:24:240:24:28

-For the recipe, we want two hearts per portion.

-Oui.

0:24:280:24:31

-So I have 20 guests, two hearts, 40, yeah?

-Yes, Chef.

0:24:310:24:35

This family have been growing artichokes for 50 years.

0:24:350:24:37

See, what's really wonderful, but you don't realise maybe, Katie,

0:24:370:24:42

is how important what we're doing here.

0:24:420:24:45

See this gentleman here? He is one of the last farmers of artichokes

0:24:450:24:49

in this particular region.

0:24:490:24:52

I think we should be very proud to use his artichokes.

0:24:520:24:56

They connect with a lovely wood of this man

0:24:560:25:00

and the keeping of this whole region.

0:25:000:25:02

Of course, the food will taste so wonderful - it's totally organic and pure.

0:25:020:25:07

-And so fresh.

-Absolutely.

0:25:070:25:09

This distinctive vegetable is a member of the thistle family,

0:25:090:25:13

hence its familiar shape.

0:25:130:25:16

-Let's go and cook. Tres bien, on y va.

-Merci.

0:25:170:25:20

Back at the restaurant, Raymond sets to work

0:25:320:25:35

making his own version of barigoule,

0:25:350:25:38

gently cooked artichokes, onions and garlic and smoked bacon,

0:25:380:25:42

it's a delicious side dish sure to make his Provencal guests

0:25:420:25:46

-particularly happy.

-Barigoule, initially, is a very old Provencal dish,

0:25:460:25:51

which used to be with mushrooms.

0:25:510:25:54

So you can see how dishes can move on from one century to another,

0:25:540:25:58

or one generation to another.

0:25:580:26:00

Here, the barigoule is made of beautiful violet.

0:26:000:26:04

First, the fiddly job of preparing the artichokes...

0:26:060:26:10

Keep going, a bit more. Voila.

0:26:100:26:11

..peeling out the hearts.

0:26:110:26:14

Like that. Slowly.

0:26:140:26:16

-Perfect! But not too much.

-Oui.

-OK?

-Oui.

0:26:160:26:20

so then with a serrated knife, you cut it just here.

0:26:200:26:23

Once the fibrous choke is removed, they're soaked in water

0:26:270:26:30

with a squeeze of lemon to stop them from turning brown.

0:26:300:26:34

Tres bien.

0:26:340:26:35

Voila.

0:26:350:26:37

Next, Raymond roughly chops the other vegetables.

0:26:370:26:40

The garlic...

0:26:400:26:42

OK? The purple garlic.

0:26:430:26:45

This belongs to Provence.

0:26:450:26:47

It's three times as strong because it's young. It's full of moisture.

0:26:470:26:51

Raymond adds a little locally smoked bacon.

0:26:510:26:54

I bought here the local Ventreche.

0:26:550:26:58

The Ventreche is the belly of the pork.

0:26:580:27:02

We just need a tiny little bit, maybe no more than that.

0:27:020:27:05

Just to give it that smoky flavour, but no more.

0:27:050:27:08

Once the ingredients are prepared,

0:27:110:27:13

they are gently sauteed in a generous quantity of olive oil.

0:27:130:27:17

Then use your best olive oil.

0:27:170:27:19

Your onions, everything in it.

0:27:190:27:22

Slowly. I don't want to hear that frying noise.

0:27:220:27:25

So now, our herbs, our belly of pork, our garlic. We've got our thyme.

0:27:250:27:31

Two, three bay leaves. Perfect.

0:27:310:27:34

Tres bien.

0:27:340:27:35

A quick stir, you go ahead. That's it. Voila.

0:27:350:27:38

And gentle. You want to be very gentle. Voila.

0:27:380:27:42

The artichokes need the least cooking, so go in last.

0:27:420:27:45

Voila. Stir.

0:27:450:27:47

While the vegetables are sauteeing,

0:27:480:27:50

Raymond heats some inexpensive white wine.

0:27:500:27:53

Always heat your pan first.

0:27:530:27:55

So when you put in the wine, it boils away immediately

0:27:550:27:58

and takes most of the alcohol away, so you have the mineral flavour.

0:27:580:28:02

Yes, Chef.

0:28:020:28:04

The warm wine goes in along with some water.

0:28:050:28:09

-Straight in?

-Yes, straight in.

0:28:090:28:11

And Raymond's special touch - some preserved lemon.

0:28:110:28:14

Remember, we are close to Marseilles here.

0:28:140:28:18

All these great flavours were brought

0:28:180:28:21

from the North Africans, the Moors, the Sarrasins,

0:28:210:28:24

who invaded this part of the world

0:28:240:28:26

and brought their spices

0:28:260:28:28

-and their cuisine, you see?

-Oui.

-That's all.

0:28:280:28:31

Gentle... Barely a little bubble, OK?

0:28:320:28:36

Just a gentle, simmering pot.

0:28:360:28:40

Once cooked, Raymond strains off the liquor and emulsifies it

0:28:400:28:44

to create a creamy consistency.

0:28:440:28:46

OK, tres bien.

0:28:490:28:51

To finish the barigoule,

0:28:510:28:53

the vegetables are topped with the emulsified liquor and sprinkled with parsley.

0:28:530:28:58

Mmm, so good.

0:29:050:29:07

Nothing distinguishes the sun-blessed bounty of Provence more than the olive trees.

0:29:100:29:15

One of the strongest memories

0:29:160:29:18

Raymond has of his first visit to the region is the use of olive oil.

0:29:180:29:23

These days, it would inconceivable for him not to have a bottle or two in the kitchen.

0:29:230:29:28

In my area, we don't use olive. I didn't see any olive trees,

0:29:280:29:32

but also we don't use olive oil,

0:29:320:29:34

because we use a lot of butter.

0:29:340:29:36

Because the Montbeliarde is a beautiful cow,

0:29:360:29:40

broad and generous with her milk.

0:29:400:29:42

If I will use butter here, they would hang me on the top of that Cedar.

0:29:420:29:46

Maybe higher!

0:29:460:29:48

Because it's inconceivable here to use anything else but olives.

0:29:480:29:54

Olive oil is basically the main oil that you use in Provence.

0:29:540:29:59

The Ancient Greeks planted the first trees deep in the region

0:29:590:30:03

and they remain at the heart of Provencal cooking.

0:30:030:30:06

So a chance to harvest the fruit that will be a flavour layered through his local feast

0:30:060:30:12

is an opportunity Raymond cannot refuse.

0:30:120:30:16

Ah, Monsieur Olive, bonjour!

0:30:160:30:18

-Comment allez-vous!

-Tres bien, merci.

0:30:190:30:22

-C'est un grand moment, hein?

-Eh, oui.

0:30:220:30:24

It's a big moment, is it? It's what you're waiting for all year round.

0:30:240:30:29

Quelles olives? Which olives are they?

0:30:290:30:32

It's the first harvest and Alain is very happy.

0:30:430:30:46

He's got a very good harvest here. This olive is very special.

0:30:460:30:50

The first harvest of the year.

0:30:500:30:52

It's called a Salonnenque type of olive.

0:30:520:30:56

And what they do here, they don't use it for tapenades,

0:30:560:30:59

they don't use it for oil,

0:30:590:31:01

they just use it break it down, OK, smash it a little bit

0:31:010:31:04

and put it in plenty of water to remove the bitterness.

0:31:040:31:08

And then, they go on the mountain here and it's full of wild fennel

0:31:080:31:12

and they just pick up the flowers and marinade it with it and serve it.

0:31:120:31:17

I would be a good picker, I think.

0:31:210:31:24

I've picked everything in my life,

0:31:240:31:26

even mangoes, oranges, plums,

0:31:260:31:29

prunes, mirabelles, strawberries, raspberries...!

0:31:290:31:32

It's the first time actually I'm picking olives.

0:31:320:31:35

Oh, la, la! Oh, la, la!

0:31:390:31:42

Oh! Oh!

0:31:420:31:43

It's...

0:31:440:31:46

The bitterness... The acid...

0:31:460:31:49

It's strange.

0:31:490:31:51

It's just...so...

0:31:510:31:55

Bitter! Bitter!

0:31:550:31:56

It's just...

0:31:580:32:01

I know very few things that taste so bad and can be turned

0:32:010:32:05

into something absolutely delicious that we all desire.

0:32:050:32:09

Turning the bitterest taste into the greatest treat

0:32:120:32:16

is the real art of an olive grower.

0:32:160:32:19

The difference between picking it fresh from the tree

0:32:370:32:41

and creating a simple process is night and day.

0:32:410:32:44

It is so delicious and delicate.

0:32:440:32:47

They are not salty, it is really such a delicious olive.

0:32:470:32:50

Thank you very much to treat me.

0:32:500:32:52

Well worth working for a whole year.

0:32:520:32:55

Raymond first came to the region when he was 14

0:33:120:33:15

to visit a childhood friend, Rene.

0:33:150:33:18

Rene's family had decided to move some 400 miles south

0:33:180:33:22

to the Provence coast.

0:33:220:33:24

Rene was my very, very best friend,

0:33:240:33:26

my pal, my friend, my confidant.

0:33:260:33:29

We grew up together from a very early age, up to the age of 14.

0:33:290:33:34

He left. He left my village and for me, that was really a big heartache.

0:33:340:33:39

It was a big break for me in my childhood.

0:33:390:33:43

We were that close.

0:33:440:33:46

We were such great pals.

0:33:460:33:49

So when Raymond's local priest, l'abbaye Simon, who was also Rene's uncle,

0:33:490:33:53

arranged a trip to the seaside, Raymond jumped at the chance

0:33:530:33:56

to visit his close friend.

0:33:560:33:58

I remember it very vividly because first,

0:33:580:34:01

you never went out of your village, or hardly ever.

0:34:010:34:04

The furthest I had been up to the age of 12 was Switzerland,

0:34:040:34:08

which is just 100km away.

0:34:080:34:10

You didn't travel.

0:34:100:34:13

Going a la mer, as the French say, going in the sea, at the sea,

0:34:130:34:17

aller a la mer, it's a big thing for a little village boy.

0:34:170:34:21

So of course, I was completely excited on two counts,

0:34:210:34:25

meeting this Provence that I had heard so much, seeing the sea

0:34:250:34:29

and of course, meeting my friend, Rene,

0:34:290:34:31

because we'd spend a whole month together in that colonie de vacances.

0:34:310:34:36

Sadly, Rene died ten years ago,

0:34:380:34:42

but Raymond keeps in touch with his family

0:34:420:34:44

and he's happy to have been invited to lunch.

0:34:440:34:47

CHEERING

0:34:470:34:49

Martine, Rene's widow, is delighted see him.

0:34:490:34:52

Rene's sister, Bernardette, is also joining the lunch party.

0:34:550:35:00

And the great thing about good friends is they love you.

0:35:010:35:05

Of course you can! OK.

0:35:070:35:10

The ladies have decided that to escape the kitchen bustle,

0:35:100:35:13

Chef should join them for a picnic.

0:35:130:35:16

It's a bread which is very much a speciality, OK?

0:35:160:35:20

And it's made with white flour and a bit of olive oil inside.

0:35:200:35:24

It's a very old bread, which is local, made back to the 13th century.

0:35:240:35:29

And that's very smart because what they would do,

0:35:290:35:32

they would have some rouille or aioli, little bits of saucisson or lettuce

0:35:320:35:38

or garlic and tomatoes and then the whole idea is it's moist.

0:35:380:35:44

When you put all that moisture inside,

0:35:440:35:47

you do it at least two hours before,

0:35:470:35:50

so the crumbs, they soak up all that lovely moisture.

0:35:500:35:54

So you have one wonderful bite of Provencal flavours and textures

0:35:540:35:59

and of course 13th-century history in one bite.

0:35:590:36:02

Then, in the spirit of the local ingredients, olive oil over butter.

0:36:050:36:09

That's a beautiful tapenade, the ripe olives. They were picked very late.

0:36:120:36:17

It's pureed with a bit of olive oil, maybe a few capers,

0:36:170:36:20

some put garlic, anchovies, whatever. It's very simple to make.

0:36:200:36:23

Chez les gens qui me donnaient mon huile depuis 27 ans!

0:36:230:36:28

-Hop!

-Hop la!

0:36:280:36:30

Voila, le classique! Raymond... Regarde, mais regarde ca.

0:36:300:36:33

-Voila!

-Bien vu.

0:36:360:36:38

Voila. Tres bien.

0:36:430:36:45

And then the sandwich is not... It's a sandwich.

0:36:470:36:51

Le sandwich was...

0:36:510:36:53

-Le sandwich a ete, en fait, cree en Provence.

-Oui.

0:36:530:36:57

The sandwich has been created in Provence, you see,

0:36:570:37:00

13 centuries ago.

0:37:000:37:01

As the sea dominates life here, they head for Raymond's treasured spot

0:37:010:37:06

on the coast, the dramatic cliffs of Les Calanques.

0:37:060:37:10

Rene's brother, Jean, is on the beach to greet them.

0:37:100:37:13

Vous avez faim?

0:37:150:37:17

This place means a lot to each of us here.

0:37:170:37:22

That's where I learned to dive.

0:37:220:37:24

And I didn't know how to swim, but I knew how to dive.

0:37:240:37:28

All I had to do was launch myself into the sea and look for that rock.

0:37:280:37:33

And hopefully the wave wouldn't take you back.

0:37:330:37:36

Very tricky place, very tricky place.

0:37:360:37:39

Once, I dived from 12 metres.

0:37:390:37:41

It was my first dive at 12 metres and the sea was quite rough.

0:37:410:37:45

Today, it's quite calm.

0:37:450:37:47

And I landed very badly...

0:37:470:37:50

..flat on my tummy, and you are winded out.

0:37:520:37:55

You cannot move. You are paralysed.

0:37:550:37:57

And Rene had to dive into the sea to get me back.

0:37:570:38:00

Thank God he's such a better swimmer than I am myself

0:38:000:38:04

because I would be at the bottom of this wonderful sea.

0:38:040:38:07

After a day at the beach,

0:38:290:38:31

Raymond is thinking about including some sunshine in his dessert.

0:38:310:38:35

The strawberries of Provence are heady with perfume.

0:38:350:38:39

Known as gariguette, the best grow wild in the mountains,

0:38:390:38:42

but Raymond has picked these up at the market.

0:38:420:38:46

C'est tres bien, c'est pour les cameramen.

0:38:460:38:48

He'll be serving them three ways - pureed, as a sorbet and macerated,

0:38:480:38:52

all topped off with a raspberry tuile and some mint and basil jelly.

0:38:520:38:58

A refreshing end for his Provencal feast.

0:38:580:39:01

You need the best fruit and it is so, so important.

0:39:020:39:06

When you have the best fruit, it's easy.

0:39:060:39:09

And they're so fresh. They're the very best variety.

0:39:090:39:13

First, Raymond macerates them in some sugar and lemon juice.

0:39:130:39:17

The sugar penetrates slowly into the fruit.

0:39:170:39:21

You can bring at least 30% more flavour, or more.

0:39:210:39:24

Now, one quantity is pureed, sieved and churned into a sorbet.

0:39:270:39:31

While it freezes, Raymond makes a raspberry tuile.

0:39:330:39:37

Voila.

0:39:370:39:38

My raspberry coulis.

0:39:380:39:41

Raspberry puree is creamed together with icing sugar, butter

0:39:410:39:44

and a little flour before being spread into a thin layer

0:39:440:39:47

on some greaseproof paper.

0:39:470:39:49

Voila.

0:39:490:39:50

That's good. That's good. That's the right thickness.

0:39:520:39:55

The tuile mixture is cooked until bubbly.

0:39:580:40:01

You can pull them down like that.

0:40:010:40:04

Directly on here.

0:40:040:40:05

Before it cools and hardens, circles are cut.

0:40:050:40:08

Well, bravo, Kate! C'est la perfection.

0:40:080:40:12

-It's perfection.

-Oui.

-Look.

0:40:120:40:14

And shaped on a rolling pin.

0:40:140:40:17

Let's fetch everything - the coulis, sorbet.

0:40:170:40:20

Coulis, parfait.

0:40:200:40:23

To serve, a base of strawberry coulis.

0:40:240:40:27

When I was young, I could do a perfect circle.

0:40:270:40:31

THEY LAUGH

0:40:310:40:33

Next, some simple macerated strawberries.

0:40:330:40:36

OK, so use the gelee, just a tiny little bit, like that.

0:40:360:40:41

And for a cooling contrast,

0:40:410:40:42

Raymond has made a little basil and mint jelly.

0:40:420:40:46

It's peppery, it's lemony, it's herby.

0:40:460:40:50

It's beautiful, it's a fresh, different texture.

0:40:500:40:53

Next, the sorbet.

0:40:530:40:56

And the final touches.

0:41:010:41:03

The most dainty one. Maybe a bit of mint?

0:41:030:41:06

Voila! Take the heart of it.

0:41:060:41:08

So that's the dessert recipe,

0:41:080:41:10

tried and tested, and glowing of Provence.

0:41:100:41:13

I think there is nothing I want to change with this dish.

0:41:160:41:19

-I think it works, it's fresh and they will like it.

-Oui.

0:41:190:41:22

The peace and ambience of the hills, just inland,

0:41:240:41:28

provide a stark contrast to the bustle of the coastal towns.

0:41:280:41:32

-Look, sage. "Sauge".

-Sage.

0:41:320:41:35

Wild sage.

0:41:350:41:37

The heat and warmth of the region

0:41:370:41:38

doesn't just make for an abundance of fruit and vegetables,

0:41:380:41:42

but surprisingly adds to a special cheese.

0:41:420:41:46

The robust herbs that grow wild

0:41:460:41:48

on the dry hills of the Provence interior,

0:41:480:41:51

provide a flavoursome diet for these Rove goats.

0:41:510:41:53

Thus, giving their milk a taste

0:41:540:41:57

that makes the much prized Brousse du Rove cheese, a local delicacy.

0:41:570:42:01

Those goats are feeding on these wonderful herbs

0:42:020:42:07

so I bet, when we taste this wonderful Brousse cheese,

0:42:070:42:12

you are going to find some incredible perfumes here.

0:42:120:42:16

-You know, you are what you eat. Remember that.

-Oui!

0:42:160:42:20

As a chef, very important to remember that.

0:42:200:42:22

WHISTLING

0:42:220:42:24

It's amazing, eh?

0:42:250:42:28

The Gourian family have been artisans of this special cheese for hundreds of years.

0:42:280:42:33

-Est-ce que ca gele de temps en temps ici?

-Oui.

0:42:330:42:35

The technique for making the cheese has been passed down

0:42:390:42:42

through 14 generations

0:42:420:42:45

to Andre's wife, Marie-Ange.

0:42:450:42:47

Marie-Ange is very, very strong.

0:42:470:42:50

The milk is simmered and one ingredient added.

0:42:500:42:54

Voila, Marie-Ange.

0:42:540:42:55

That's very interesting - Marie-Ange is using vinegar.

0:42:590:43:02

Correct?

0:43:020:43:03

Which will separate water from the solid.

0:43:030:43:06

She doesn't take all the whey.

0:43:060:43:09

Some of it to keep the moisture.

0:43:090:43:10

What I love about these things, how simple it is.

0:43:100:43:13

Finally a chance to taste the end product.

0:43:150:43:18

There's a little bit of sweetness. Milky sweet.

0:43:270:43:30

Although it's been soured, there's that lovely sweetness,

0:43:300:43:34

which gives sweet, sour lengths of flavour.

0:43:340:43:37

Raymond knows the cheese from Andre's goats

0:43:380:43:41

will make a defining centrepiece to his cheese course,

0:43:410:43:44

bringing a strong local note.

0:43:440:43:46

But he still has to create a starter

0:43:460:43:49

and two of the strong themes of his journey are forming an idea.

0:43:490:43:52

The great bouillabaisse he tasted with his friend Gerald

0:43:520:43:57

and the region's distinct use of grilled vegetables

0:43:570:44:00

will come together in a dish

0:44:000:44:02

that uses a technique he's been perfecting for decades.

0:44:020:44:06

Layers of Mediterranean fish

0:44:060:44:07

are encased in a gently set stock,

0:44:070:44:11

all wrapped in a thin layer of aubergine.

0:44:110:44:13

A jewelled mosaic of scent and flavour.

0:44:130:44:16

This is Raymond's bouillabaisse terrine.

0:44:160:44:19

Ah, they are here. They are all hidden away. For you.

0:44:230:44:26

A magnificent selection of fish has been delivered to the restaurant.

0:44:260:44:30

Raymond is spoilt for choice.

0:44:300:44:32

A lovely John Dory.

0:44:320:44:33

-What do you have here?

-A type of bream, Chef.

-Yeah.

0:44:330:44:36

-Pink.

-Yeah. It's called royal sea bream.

-Royal sea bream.

0:44:360:44:40

First, Raymond fillets the fish.

0:44:400:44:42

Voila. We're going to keep the skin on. It's delicious.

0:44:420:44:46

You've got a little gelatinous flavour as well.

0:44:460:44:49

Raymond is using classic bouillabaisse fish,

0:44:490:44:53

including John Dory and bream, but there's one that is vital.

0:44:530:44:57

-This one is a "rascasse".

-A scorpion fish.

0:44:570:44:59

It's essential for the bouillabaisse.

0:44:590:45:02

It's a hooligan of the sea. It's tough, it's hard flesh,

0:45:020:45:06

but beautiful and meaty like a steak. The steak of the sea.

0:45:060:45:09

Next, the fish is marinated.

0:45:100:45:12

The marination will be based on saffron, which is very popular. Maybe two little pinches.

0:45:120:45:18

Raymond is using powdered saffron rather then the traditional threads

0:45:180:45:22

so that the flavour and colour permeate the fish more evenly.

0:45:220:45:25

Tres bien. I'm going to dilute it with some water.

0:45:250:45:28

Voila.

0:45:280:45:29

And olive oil. Mon dieu, it's a gift from God.

0:45:290:45:33

Into the base, Raymond adds garlic

0:45:330:45:36

and Provencal herbs - fennel, thyme and rosemary.

0:45:360:45:39

Tres bien. A bit of cayenne pepper.

0:45:390:45:42

-Just here, Chef.

-Yeah. And salt.

0:45:420:45:44

-Seven big ones.

-Seven big ones.

0:45:440:45:46

Tres bien. Voila.

0:45:460:45:48

Fish.

0:45:490:45:51

You see, Kush, all the flavours of the South of France. Smell that.

0:45:510:45:56

-See?

-Yes. You can really smell the olive oil as well.

0:45:590:46:02

If you use good olive oil, that's it.

0:46:020:46:04

Good olive oil, good dish. Bad olive oil, bad dish.

0:46:040:46:07

Bad fish, bad dish, no?

0:46:070:46:09

The flavours are allowed to develop for about an hour.

0:46:090:46:12

OK.

0:46:120:46:14

Nothing goes to waste in this recipe.

0:46:140:46:16

The bones are essential to the stock that gives the dish its bouillabaisse heritage.

0:46:160:46:21

Look at that. All these wonderful flavours.

0:46:210:46:24

The stock is used to poach the marinated fish very gently.

0:46:240:46:28

-What oven temperature?

-Chef, it's just over 100 degrees.

0:46:320:46:37

The low heat helps preserve the fish's taste and texture.

0:46:370:46:40

Next, Raymond cooks thin layers of aubergine skin in olive oil.

0:46:420:46:45

-Flat. A bit of colour underneath?

-Just a bit, Chef.

-Yeah?

0:46:450:46:50

Put the skin side outside. This is going to be very dramatic.

0:46:500:46:54

When softened, they are used to line the terrine.

0:46:540:46:57

Perfect. Ready to receive the fish.

0:46:570:47:01

Once cooked, the fish is removed from the liquor.

0:47:010:47:05

The fish. Bouillabaisse fish.

0:47:050:47:07

To create the mosaic effect and add colour and flavour,

0:47:070:47:11

Raymond adds pieces of grilled pepper, courgette and fennel.

0:47:110:47:15

Gently. Very gently. Tips of my fingers.

0:47:150:47:18

Raymond mixes very gently

0:47:180:47:20

so as not to break up the fish before adding to the terrine.

0:47:200:47:23

As the fish cools,

0:47:240:47:26

Raymond adds gelatine to the stock and allows it to thicken slightly.

0:47:260:47:30

You can see now, it's quite oily. The gelee is ready to set.

0:47:300:47:34

This process is known as oiling.

0:47:340:47:37

Too little and the terrine won't set,

0:47:370:47:39

too much and the texture will be all wrong.

0:47:390:47:42

The jellified stock is poured over the fish

0:47:430:47:47

and it is allowed to set for at least 12 hours.

0:47:470:47:50

I know it's quite a lot of work, but I wanted to please them

0:47:500:47:53

and I wanted to do something a bit different for them.

0:47:530:47:56

The dish is one of my oldest dishes back in England.

0:47:560:47:59

It's what inspired me, actually. Provence inspired me.

0:47:590:48:02

It's going to be absolutely delicious. I hope, anyway.

0:48:020:48:06

OK. Tres bien.

0:48:060:48:08

He's gambling that serving the locals their beloved bouillabaisse as a terrine won't backfire.

0:48:080:48:14

For someone to whom food is almost a religious experience,

0:48:160:48:21

coming back to Provence is like a pilgrimage for Raymond.

0:48:210:48:25

He's been drawn away from the kitchen to a festival that blesses food.

0:48:250:48:29

Inland, at Aix-en-Provence,

0:48:320:48:34

he's joining the annual Blessing of the Calissons.

0:48:340:48:37

Such a wonderful little celebration.

0:48:370:48:40

Just not of food, but of community, of people and of their city.

0:48:400:48:45

Aix is the heart of the almond industry

0:48:450:48:48

and Calissons are small almond biscuits created some 400 years ago.

0:48:480:48:53

Thousands of people dressing up for these Calissons.

0:48:530:48:57

ORGAN PLAYS

0:48:570:49:00

That priest was absolutely brilliant.

0:49:160:49:19

Completely focused on the meaning of it.

0:49:190:49:22

And he was saying man ate for sustenance.

0:49:220:49:25

He killed and he ate his food and that was it.

0:49:250:49:28

Then came civilisation and food was at the heart of it.

0:49:280:49:31

Fire came in and we cooked the food

0:49:310:49:33

and we created some delicious specialities, like Calissons.

0:49:330:49:37

And it gathered families around the table

0:49:370:49:40

so food was part of the community, food was part of life,

0:49:400:49:43

food was part of the joy and celebration.

0:49:430:49:47

And that was wonderful, really to see all these Provencals,

0:49:470:49:50

their beautiful dress, in that moment.

0:49:500:49:54

Raymond was an alter boy at his local church

0:49:540:49:56

and grew up with a deep understanding of the connection between religion and food.

0:49:560:50:01

It is a very French thing to bring food into religion, or religion into food.

0:50:040:50:09

Oh, that is so lovely.

0:50:090:50:11

I think I've been given Calissons by the most beautiful girl

0:50:110:50:15

in the whole of Aux-en-Provence, two actually. Thank you very much.

0:50:150:50:19

Of course, this is made with the almonds of this region.

0:50:190:50:24

Almonds are the biggest industry of the whole of Aix-en-Provence.

0:50:240:50:28

And do you know what? Not a single feeling of guilt. Do you know why?

0:50:280:50:33

The priest has blessed my Calisson. That means I've got hands of God into this Calisson

0:50:330:50:37

so that I can eat it without guilt.

0:50:370:50:40

That is delicious! Really delicious.

0:50:440:50:48

The sunny life and the great ingredients Raymond

0:50:480:50:52

found in Provence, when he first set foot here as a 14-year-old boy,

0:50:520:50:56

changed his palate for life.

0:50:560:50:58

Now, he's come to the region armed with culinary skills in abundance,

0:50:590:51:04

although he knows pure and simple would have made an uncompromising feast,

0:51:040:51:10

that wouldn't be Raymond, who likes to raise the bar wherever he cooks!

0:51:100:51:16

It's feast day.

0:51:170:51:19

It's always complicated, different cuisine, different equipment,

0:51:190:51:22

different ovens, different produce.

0:51:220:51:25

A lot of things can happen wrong, I can assure you.

0:51:250:51:27

The kitchen of La P'tite Cour is gearing up for a busy service

0:51:280:51:31

and no French meal is complete without bread.

0:51:310:51:35

Raymond has decided to make his own. but is short of a key ingredient.

0:51:350:51:39

Kush, can you get me some yeast from the local bakery, please?

0:51:390:51:44

Rising to the challenge, Kush races out to get some yeast,

0:51:440:51:48

but he's forgotten his French isn't fluent!

0:51:480:51:51

Je voudrais acheter un peu de "levin" pour le pain.

0:51:510:51:54

-Pour la farine?

-Non, farine, non.

0:51:540:51:57

Farine, sel, l'eau...

0:51:570:51:59

"Yeast" en anglais?

0:51:590:52:02

Oui.

0:52:030:52:04

15 grammes.

0:52:090:52:10

-C'est bon?

-Oui. C'est combien?

0:52:120:52:14

-C'est bon?

-Oui.

-Pour moi?

-Oui.

-Merci beaucoup.

0:52:140:52:18

-De rien!

-De rien.

-Au revoir, et bonne journee!

0:52:180:52:20

-Thank you very much, Kush. Is it alive?

-It's alive.

0:52:230:52:27

It's not strong, but we'll try.

0:52:270:52:30

Bread prepared, it's time to get it in the oven.

0:52:300:52:34

At 300 degrees centigrade and with the door open,

0:52:340:52:37

Raymond is having a few problems.

0:52:370:52:40

Look! The paper is burning. It's incredible, I've never seen that!

0:52:400:52:45

Oh, it's ridiculous!

0:52:450:52:46

And every oven is under siege to fill his bread basket.

0:52:460:52:50

A bit of water, Kush! Throw it in.

0:52:500:52:54

That great steam giving volume, crustiness! I hope, I don't know!

0:52:540:53:00

It's all in my head!

0:53:000:53:01

The terrine has set beautifully and is sliced, ready to be served.

0:53:010:53:05

Lovely, eh?

0:53:050:53:07

The courtyard is cleared and being turned into an elegant setting

0:53:120:53:15

for Raymond's discerning guests.

0:53:150:53:18

-In the kitchen, things aren't going quite so smoothly.

-Aha.

0:53:180:53:23

Oh la la. Oh la la. Oh la la...

0:53:230:53:27

I've never seen it happen like that, never in my life.

0:53:270:53:30

It's so hot, I've never seen that.

0:53:300:53:33

It's been nearly 30 years

0:53:340:53:37

since Raymond worked in a kitchen this small.

0:53:370:53:40

In my restaurant, we've got 42 chefs.

0:53:400:53:44

Here, I've got two!

0:53:440:53:45

And it's nearly 50 years

0:53:450:53:47

since Raymond first fell in love with the food of Provence.

0:53:470:53:51

That reconnects me with my first experience

0:53:510:53:54

and the world was to be discovered.

0:53:540:53:56

As the guests arrive, nothing remains for Raymond

0:54:050:54:08

but to hope that passion in his chosen menu will bring joy to their tables.

0:54:080:54:12

First course - the bouillabaisse terrine presented with

0:54:140:54:17

a drizzle of saffron oil.

0:54:170:54:19

Normally, the bouillabaisse, it's a soup

0:54:190:54:22

and so that's the reason why it is... C'est surprenant.

0:54:220:54:27

-The fish is perfect. Perfect, perfect.

-It's really surprising.

0:54:270:54:33

And colourful and really fresh.

0:54:330:54:38

-Kush, ready?

-Yes, Chef.

-Excellent.

0:54:380:54:40

One course down and well-received.

0:54:400:54:43

Keeping things on track,

0:54:430:54:44

the fish course is lightly fried in olive oil...

0:54:440:54:49

and will be presented with two local dishes -

0:54:490:54:52

barigoule - artichoke stew -

0:54:520:54:54

and ratatouille - another local staple.

0:54:540:54:58

Then, the final touches.

0:54:580:54:59

The braised fennel with the controversial choice

0:54:590:55:02

of the red wine jus for the fish.

0:55:020:55:04

More flavour. The fennel.

0:55:040:55:07

-They are beautiful, come on - don't be so mean.

-Yes, Chef.

0:55:070:55:11

There is nothing worse than meanness for a chef, OK?

0:55:110:55:15

Apart from being a murderer, maybe.

0:55:150:55:17

-Chef.

-Service, s'il vous plait.

0:55:170:55:20

Just delicious. I think red wine goes very well with the fish.

0:55:260:55:30

It's very disorientating, obviously. I love it.

0:55:310:55:35

Actually, it's very good to drink red wine also with this fish -

0:55:350:55:38

it's very nice, it goes very well together,

0:55:380:55:42

so I think it's a great idea.

0:55:420:55:47

See, that's a Frenchman,

0:55:470:55:49

who has mopped the sauce completely with the bread!

0:55:490:55:53

Wonderful. It still doesn't diminish, that pleasure,

0:55:530:55:55

after so many years. It doesn't.

0:55:550:55:58

Then, that Provencal speciality made from aromatic milk -

0:55:580:56:02

Brousse de Rove goats' cheese, drizzled with honey.

0:56:020:56:06

And with a nod to the years Raymond has spent cooking in England,

0:56:060:56:10

home-made apricot chutney.

0:56:100:56:12

I love this idea of teasing some of my Provencal friends.

0:56:120:56:17

A bit of good English chutney, no? Voila.

0:56:170:56:20

As the meal progresses, so the guests' pleasure increases.

0:56:230:56:27

The finale - the fragrant red fruit dessert featuring the sorbet

0:56:310:56:36

and delicate, crunchy raspberry tuile.

0:56:360:56:39

Sorbet first. Put the tuile last, OK?

0:56:390:56:41

-There's more macerated fruit there.

-Merci, ma belle.

0:56:410:56:44

Raymond has forgotten to add the legendary Provencal

0:56:450:56:49

wild strawberries, but it's not too late.

0:56:490:56:52

It's a little restaurant, it's like being home for me.

0:56:550:56:58

For me, it's very good

0:56:580:57:01

and of course this is perfect!

0:57:010:57:03

Amazing experience, you know.

0:57:050:57:07

I really like... What do you say in English?

0:57:070:57:10

This is typically English, I think -

0:57:100:57:14

-la gelee?

-Jelly?

-Jelly.

0:57:140:57:17

For me, a surprising experience,

0:57:170:57:19

because I'm afraid about this kind of product, but it was nice.

0:57:190:57:23

Clean plates and happy faces mean that it's been challenging,

0:57:240:57:29

but ultimately rewarding.

0:57:290:57:31

It's been quite a day.

0:57:310:57:33

But it's been very rewarding as well.

0:57:330:57:37

We all have learned a great deal.

0:57:370:57:40

All that remains to be done is to wipe down the kitchen.

0:57:410:57:45

And soak up a well-earned round of Provencal applause.

0:57:450:57:50

Well done, OK? Et serveurs. Ces jeunes!

0:57:500:57:55

APPLAUSE

0:57:550:57:57

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