11/06/2017 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites

Good morning. There's a seriously tasty menu

lined up for you on today's show,

so there's only one thing for you to do - sit back and enjoy another

serving of Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

Welcome to the show.

Now, we have talented chefs serving up top class food and

celebrity guests galore. Trust me, you won't want to miss any of it.

Coming up on today's show,

James Martin serves a chocolate fudge brownie sundae for Ruby Wax,

Martin Blunos is here, celebrating British pork.

He pan-fries slices of pork fillet, sautes leftover potatoes

with bacon and cheese and serves with a dry tartare sauce.

Jason Atherton shows us a delicious dish, using Barbary duck.

He cooks up confit duck leg and pan-fried duck breast with

a tangy cherry sauce and a chocolate ganache.

Battling it out for omelette challenge glory

we have the laudable Lawrence Keogh and the awesome Angela Hartnett.

And with Lawrence on a time of just under 18 seconds going into

this, it should be a quick one. And then, it's over to Atul Kochhar,

who is serving up a pie that originated in a sports club.

He makes a pie filling of chicken, carrots, onions, spices,

cooked in coconut milk, and then he tops with a puff pastry lid,

sprinkled with coriander, cumin and black sesame seeds.

And finally, comedian Katy Brand faces her food heaven or food hell.

Did she get her food heaven, coriander fish curry with

coriander flatbreads, or her food hell, grilled pork chop with

crisp black pudding, cider sauce and greens?

You can find out what she got at the end of the show.

But first, it's over to a chef who runs the only two-star

restaurant in Scotland.

It's the amazing Andrew Fairlie and he's here to show us how to

home-smoke lobster.

Good to have you on the show, Andrew. First time on the show.

-And straight into it, two dishes.

-Yes.

-With a homage for two people, Michel and...

-Michel and Michel.

Michel Guerard, where I did my scholarship, and Michel Roux,

-who sent me there.

-Right, so we're going to do lobster.

Run through the sauce for this.

We've got some cream, butter, herbs, tarragon...

We've got some lime juice, some cream,

and if you can just crack on with a basic lime and butter sauce.

I'll explain how we're doing that while I'm doing it,

but this is for the smoked lobster dish.

This is for the smoked lobster, yeah.

-But your other one, which we've got...

-Is mango sauce.

So we've got some Alphonso mangoes there,

which we're going to blitz in here. Again, we're going to add some lime

juice to that with some sherry vinegar.

A little bit of hot water, just to get the mangoes going.

And then we're going to pour in some light olive oil, a little bit

of seasoning, and that's what we're going to season the salad with.

And that's that one. OK.

-So this is the smoking the lobster business.

-Yeah.

So first thing I'm going to do is to get these shells in to smoke.

-Yeah.

-So it's just actually the shell we smoke for this.

We don't actually smoke the meat.

And this comes from the restaurant. Did he actually smoke it...?

-You're doing it in shavings of whisky barrels, but...?

-Yeah.

Michel Guerard used to do it...

We had a chimney where he used to burn old vines and fruit wood

and things like that.

-Yeah.

-And then he used to grill meat and fish over that.

And it gave it this kind of really beautiful smoky flavour.

So at the restaurant, what we started to do...

Well, actually, we'd been playing around with it for a while now,

and because we don't have an old-fashioned chimney,

we just started to cold smoke it in the restaurant,

so we're going to hot smoke it today.

But normally in the restaurant,

-we would cold smoke it and it would take about six hours to do.

-Right.

Now most people looking at that meat would look at the green and just...

-But that's fine.

-It's the best part of the lobster.

-Yeah.

-Tastes absolutely fantastic.

I'm just going to wipe my hands here.

There you go. Right. Smokey. This is the shavings of the whisky barrels.

Yeah, so you can actually smell the kind of sweetness of the whisky.

Once we've finished with the barrels, we have

a deal with one of the distilleries where we get the shavings from it.

So this is actually hot smoking the shells now.

-There's a sink at the back to wash your hands.

-Yeah.

-There

you go. Right, I've made my sauce, which is basically, that's it.

You've got the lime, little bit of cream,

and the butter's been whisked to it.

Just literally whisk it off the heat.

That's fine. If you just leave that there just now.

And then you want me to prep the salad. I'll do that salad.

Meanwhile, you're going to do the rest of it.

Yeah, again, I think people are put off by lobster because they

think it's fiddly and it's difficult to eat.

But the dishes that we're going to do today,

it's completely out of the shell.

And again, to get the cartilage out of the claw meat,

basically just pull the smaller claw and it just takes the cartilage out.

-Clean.

-Now, you were 20 when you entered the competition.

-Yeah.

It's literally just happened, the 28th year, we're both judging it.

It is actually probably the most nervous competition and the

toughest competition for chefs.

It is, absolutely.

I've been judging it for a couple of years now and I really feel

for the guys.

You saw it this year, it's a terrifying experience to go through.

They're all great.

I think it's the two of these that are looking at you. The two Rouxs.

He was the youngest ever to win the competition.

-He was not quite in his nappy any more, but...

-I needed one that day!

But I'm still extremely proud of you for where you've come from,

what you've learned, and where you are today.

-Well done.

-It's a thing that you talk about quite a lot.

Because it is like a who's who, really, of chefs.

This competition.

Yeah, I mean the winners, there's some great, great cooks out there.

And as I say, we spent three days in Germany just a couple of weeks ago.

We have a thing for those that win the scholarship.

We have a kind of Roux scholars club.

Every couple of years,

Michel takes us away to exotic locations like Gleneagles and Dubai

and Italy, so we're just back just a few days ago from Germany,

a kind of study trip.

Study trip! I've heard it was like a stag do!

-It was.

-It was like a stag do, I've just heard!

-Yeah, we went to see...

-Your wife told me it was like a stag do!

Six o'clock in the morning, you were rolling in!

No, no. That was when we were closing the bar!

No, during the day, the chicken farm, the brewery,

tasting wine, and so on and so forth.

Anyway, he's cooking, I think. Andrew is cooking.

So, what have we got here? We've prepped our lobster.

Now, the chippings there - you can buy these chippings from

garden centres nowadays.

Yeah, you can.

Look at this! They just look fantastic!

Yeah, the smell really is great.

So what I'm going to do now is take one of these halves out.

So you can see that's quite heavy smoking,

so what we don't want to do is... I'll just put that there.

We really don't want to smoke the meat too much because it's

such a delicate meat.

-Probably move that over there.

-Yeah, great, thanks.

So we're just going to put a little of the lime sauce in the

bottom there.

Now I'm just going to slice the lobster meat back into the shell.

While you do that, I'll just explain what our salad is.

We've got some avocado here, some mango, which I've just diced.

In the blender there we've got some mango.

And you're going to add a little bit of lime to this?

-Yeah. Some... No. Ah, to the sauce?

-Yeah.

Yes. A bit of sherry vinegar, a bit of lime, and some light olive oil.

OK. A touch of water or not?

Yeah, you will need some water, just to get the mango going.

Yeah. OK.

And then we might add a little more water at the end, just to..

And then you add some olive oil to that. So I'll keep that blending.

-So those go back on the shell.

-Goes back in the shell.

Just going to put a little bit of water in the bottom there.

Just to create a bit of steam.

So tell us about the Gleneagles Hotel cos everybody knows

about it for obviously the golf.

But the ethos of your restaurant. It's still very classically French.

It is, yeah. I mean, all my training was done, most of it in France.

I did a classical four-year apprenticeship where we

cooked really from the Escoffier repertoire, so it was very,

very classical.

The food's moved on, it's evolved.

You know, these sauces, Michel did this sauce 30 years ago.

It's still very relevant today.

You know, I'm not sure how long a dried carrot foam is going to

be around for but the mango sauce and the smoked lobster...

I'll leave you to finish it off. There you go.

A bit of basil gone in there.

-Basil, mango, vinegar, lime juice is in there?

-Lime juice is in there.

You might want a little bit more in there.

We've got some herbs in there. Right.

So we're just adding olive oil there, just to emulsify the sauce.

Yeah.

Herbs going in there. Last minute.

-You want to pass that as well?

-Yeah, if you can pass it, please.

Let me just taste this quickly, James.

Just for...

I'll use a sieve. Here we go.

So as well as that and everything else, you're doing a book as well.

Yeah, we're in the process of...

It's the tenth anniversary of our restaurant next year,

so we're in the process of putting a book together for that.

-Which as you know is very time-consuming.

-It is a bit.

I'll leave you to put the lobster on the plate there.

And I'll be ready with this one in a second.

-Just pass that.

-Very smooth. Look at the texture. Beautiful texture.

It should be, it's your recipe!

-I've adapted it slightly.

-Well, that's your line, anyway.

-There you go.

-OK, so I'm going to take this lobster out of there.

So you can smell the smoke has just infused into the meat there.

Now, what I'm going to do is just take some of the smoking

liquid that's left in the pan, just thin that sauce down a little bit.

Yeah.

And I'm just going to put a little bit over the lobster meat.

So the meat there is just warm, it's not overcooked.

Can actually smell the smokiness from it as well.

So that's that one. I'll leave you to finish that one.

And then for the lobster salad, so we've got the avocado,

the mango, the mixed salad.

-Yeah.

-A little bit of the mango dressing in there.

Beautiful summer salad.

-Just going to take the lobster right on the top.

-Is he doing it right?

Perfectly right.

Better than I used to show him.

There you go.

And I'm just going to finish that with the claw on the top.

-Dressing.

-And then just...

-The smells from this are just...

A little dribble of the mango sauce around the outside.

There you have it. So remind us what that was again, Andrew.

So there we've got the warm smoked lobster,

with the warm lime butter and herb sauce.

And here, we've got the mango salad with the basil dressing.

The lobster salad with the mango and basil dressing.

I told you at the top of the show you were in for a treat. Check that out.

There you go. You get to dive in to this. Who would like first...?

-Right, dive in.

-Oh, my word!

Taste that!

-Dive into that.

-Which one?

-Whichever.

Taste any of them. Taste the warm one first. There you go.

Go for the smoked one first.

But like you said, that's just a classic from the restaurant

where you trained, when you won.

We've still got on the menu after 28 years, that lobster, lightly smoked.

I was there only last year.

Good dishes, good recipes, last forever.

It's like Troisgros with the escalope of salmon with

sorrel and all that sort of stuff. Should never be taken off.

When we talk about Andrew's cooking and said classic.

Of course, it's classic French, but it's modern classic.

His evolution over the last 20 years has been fantastic.

-But still keeping what I call the heritage.

-High praise indeed.

-And you're not going to get any if you don't hurry up and eat it!

-Yes.

The perfect dish for a spot of indulgence on a hot summer's day.

Thanks for that, Andrew. Coming up,

James serves a chocolate fudge brownie sundae for Ruby Wax,

but first, it's over to Rick Stein, who's in Corsica,

finding out about the fantastic famous Figatelli sausage.

'This is the centre of Bastia

'and this is why it's called Bastia, a bastion.

'And, whenever the town was threatened,

'this is where the townspeople came for protection.

'And it was where I met, quite by chance,

'a party of schoolchildren on a history tour.

'And, of course, I couldn't resist asking them

'what their favourite Corsican dishes were.'

Le meilleur plat de Corse, c'est un poulet et les figatelli.

-Celine?

-La coppa.

Er, Jean-Jacques?

HE REPLIES IN FRENCH

Et Remy?

Les canistrelli.

C'est bon.

Fantastic.

Now, I wonder if you asked the same question

of a group of English children,, British children,

very difficult thing to ask,

not trying to rub people's noses in it

but all these kids know their dishes so well

and they're all the sort of dishes that I would suspect they'd choose,

not burgers and chips.

Goodbye!

Bye!

'Most of the children said they really liked figatelli,

'Corsican sausages.

'And here, in the village of Murato -

'famous for its charcuterie -

'the best are made from the Corsican black pig.

'Pascal Fleury farms his own

'because he says farming your own pigs is the start, if you like,

'of the whole business of making charcuterie to be proud of.

'And this is it - the famous figatelli.'

And it's made with all the bloody offal, notably the heart,

liver, the kidneys, the cheek

and all those bits that don't tend to turn up on the butcher's slab.

But what makes them really special is they add salt, pepper, red wine

and then, most importantly, they smoke them over chestnut wood.

And you end up with, I think,

the best-tasting product on the island myself, too.

L'important, c'est de faire un produit...

'He says that, for him, the importance of making figatelli

'is feeding a passion.

'But it's also about improving the product all the time

'and making something that wins prizes on the island.

'Here, charcuterie is as important as local politics.

..de foot professionelle.

Pascal is saying he's very happy to be making these charcuterie products

because Corsican charcuterie is what Corsica is all about.

But he said he started life as a professional footballer

for Bastia, the football team in Bastia.

But he wasn't strong enough to make the first team

and he remembered that his aunt was a famous producer of charcuterie

and he just copied and learned what she was doing

and now, as it happens, he is possibly the best maker

of charcuterie on the island.

That evening, I went to the village of Sorio di Tenda,

to a local festival where the figatelli

were grilled over a wood fire.

They've been cooked like this for centuries.

But they didn't have pride of place. That went to this - pulenda.

Chestnut flour heated up in water and stirred and stirred

until it takes on the consistency of, well, fudge, I suppose.

I have just been watching him, it is quite hard work.

He has to do this for about half an hour.

Not only, as you can see, is he stirring it, he is twizzling the...

is it pollenday?

-Pollendayo.

-Pollendayo, that is the actual baton that he is using.

I suppose it is like poor people's food -

like the very similar-sounding polenta,

it is a poor people's food to the Italians.

But it is now more of a social thing.

'When it is stirred enough,

'it is celebrated rather like the piping in of the haggis.'

CHEERING

But to me, it is something...

I wasn't in a tremendous rush to try it.

I was fascinated to see that once it had cooled down,

it was cut by a piece of string tied to this man's finger.

Corsica moves in mysterious ways, I feel.

THEY SING

Mmm, interesting.

I don't know whether I like it on its own. It tastes very chestnutty.

But with a single sausage, it goes together very well, the smoky taste

and the chestnut taste. It just reminds you of Corsican forests.

SINGING CONTINUES

'Well, I won't be cooking that back home in Padstow.

'But I do feel very strongly about this, my interpretation of Corsica.'

Of all the islands in the Mediterranean, Corsica

is about forests and mountains.

In the winter, it gets really cold,

so this really reflects it, this dish.

We have game in the form of wild boar.

We have wild mushrooms, we have figatelli, of course.

You can't get it in the UK for some reason,

so I have had to use chorizo instead.

The other thing about this dish is chestnuts, I will finish it off

with a load of chestnuts just thrown in at the last minute.

I suppose they would be

the food symbol of the whole island of Corsica.

I came up with the idea at that village, really,

when they were celebrating all those particular foods of the area,

and for me as a cook, I think that's really quite important,

to sort of use the local ingredients, come up with a dish,

and it sort of sets a picture of the dish, and the country, in my mind.

Having marinated it in red wine for 24 hours, I drain it off,

and then fry the wild boar to brown the meat.

I'm just putting the pork in two batches, otherwise it'll boil

in its own juice, rather than caramelise.

Now, if I was still in Bastia, I would be putting in figatelli,

but because I couldn't find it anywhere, I'm using chorizo.

Corsicans watching this will be most indignant, I'm sure.

Now for a spoonful of tomato puree, and flour to thicken the stew.

That will help absorb some of the fat.

This is the new-look me.

No measured amounts of flour or anything, just bung it all in.

Next, vermouth - it has a really herby flavour -

and the residue of the red wine marinade.

It's so important to really, really sear meat

when you're making a stew.

I mean, the Corsicans know that, they stew everything.

I was reading somebody rather jokingly said, you know,

they'd stew their grandmother, if you gave them half a chance.

That was the sort of jokey implication of it.

But it's really lovely and velvety now,

and I know it's going to end up tasting - and the colour is so good

when you really caramelise the meat.

I put in some dried porcini mushrooms for a woodland flavour,

and some home-made beef stock.

I season this well.

It's a rich dish. Comforting, autumnal food, I say,

perfect for when the wind is whistling through the Mackie

in the back end of October.

I cover now, and gently simmer for an hour to an hour-and-a-half.

Then add some fresh ordinary mushrooms and chanterelles,

and then put in the essence of Corsica - chestnuts.

These come from a tin, and I am very pleased they did too,

because it would take longer to peel the blooming things

than cook this entire dish!

Add chopped parsley, cook for a further ten minutes, and serve,

with a good chunky pasta like penne.

After all, Corsica has many strong links with Italy.

Bon appetit.

How delicious did that stew look?

Now wild boar is delicious, much easier to get hold of this day,

as is chestnut flour, and Rick came across that in Corsica.

You can use it in quite a few recipes.

I'm going to show you and Ruby a simple recipe. Chocolate brownie.

A double chocolate fudge brownie,

with banana ice cream and toffee sauce.

Now there's food.

There, that's what it is.

So we are going to do - I'll explain what we have here.

We've got butter, eggs, some of this fudge.

We've got baking powder, chestnut flour,

and a little bit of the cocoa powder.

So first thing I'm going to do is throw our sugar in there,

with our eggs, and start whisking this up.

And then in the pan there,

I've got some dark chocolate, of course, and some full-fat butter.

Butter! Thank God! THEY CHEER

This is only half of it for this recipe! There you go.

So give that a quick mix. There you go. Straight on there.

And we'll whisk this up. So where have you been?

You...

Because we saw you on your TV programmes and bits and pieces.

Where did you go for five years?

Well, funnily enough, I went back to school.

I go to Oxford now to study brains, and now you're cooking them!

You ARE seriously studying at Oxford, aren't you?

Uh-huh. But then...

Well, I wanted to write a comedy show

that was really kind of dark too,

so was like a rollercoaster ride.

So I finally came up with a show called Losing It,

which is at the Menier CHOCOLATE Factory...

Chocolate factory, yeah!

..until the 19th. And it is very...

It's about how the fact that we do not have

an instruction manual, as human beings.

You know, we don't know how to live our lives.

I mean, I say, even my domestic appliances have one, you know.

My washing machine says, "Put in white powder."

If I did that, I'd end up in rehab!

So, you know, I'm an adult, and yet I dress like I'm 14.

I borrowed my daughter's thong. I can't find it.

You know, all the stuff that we never discuss.

We never compare notes. We're just winging it here.

And then, at the end of the show, it goes into, you know,

one in four people have a mental illness.

I AM that one in four.

And some of us...

it's on a spectrum, really just dive off the deep end.

So it gets dark, it gets light, it's funny.

We've been touring it for two years in mental institutions.

And if you can make THEM laugh, and you can make anybody laugh!

But it's incredibly popular,

because you've sold out as soon as you opened.

-You've increased it, what, another five weeks?

-It's on till, yeah...

And there's another woman, Judith Owen, who's a genius,

but we didn't like cabaret, so she sings under me, like a film score.

So nobody's done this before.

So whatever we're doing hasn't been done before,

which is what I was trying to do.

It's not stand-up, it's, you know, it's a great story.

-Sounds fantastic! Sounds fantastic!

-Now, you can...

Now I can whisk this up? There we go.

Right, we've got sugar and the eggs in there. Just whisk this up.

Very, very quickly, like that.

And then all we need to do now

is then grab our chocolate like that, throw that in.

So that's the chocolate and butter. There you go.

Throw all that lot in there,

and then you've you got this selection here.

-Cocoa powder, chestnut flour...

-I like hazelnuts.

-You can put hazelnuts in if you want.

-OK.

I'm keeping the theme going, so I've got fudge going in here.

But you literally just pass this through a sieve.

Now, with chestnut flour, you really do need to pass it through a sieve.

And, actually, cocoa powder,

because sometimes it has got little lumps in it.

-A little bit of that.

-You don't like lumps?

-There we go.

Give this a quick whisk. You can swap this over.

We can use our whisk for this.

Give that a quick mix.

And it all starts to come together, and then we throw in fudge pieces.

-Right.

-Throw the whole lot in. Pop it into our tray.

-But when we first saw you, of course...

-You know what's so funny?

I'm talking about Losing It, and he's cooking.

You know, it's such a great combination.

And yet, there's a soupcon of mental illness here too.

-LAUGHTER

-But when we first saw you...

One in four, I think I see the one. But, OK.

When we first saw you, it was Ruby Wax Meets...

-Yes.

-And I loved that programme!

-Thank you.

-Why didn't that continue?

Because you can't get the access to celebrities that way you could

when I was a child (!) You know, now there's...

You know, they're surrounded by their PR, their security...

They just hold up their films like it's a can of soup. Whereas...

-You didn't allow people to promote, nothing?

-They could a little,

but they had to let me live with them for three days.

But then, you know, I made them laugh, so, you know...

I lived with Hugh Hefner for three days in the mansion.

-I mean, you did some outrageous stuff on it.

-I know.

-You locked Fergie out of the house.

-No, no, that was planned.

But nobody could tell when I was faking it and when, you know,

it was the real thing. So it was good. I've never had that much fun.

I remember the Bette Midler one.

Yeah, she didn't want to leave her...

It was a ten-minute interview,

she didn't want to leave her hotel room, and then,

because I, you know, made her laugh, which was a big challenge,

I got her into Harvey Nichols

and had her singing down the escalator.

LAUGHTER And eating fish in the fish department.

But your way of doing it, it was kind of like, dare I say,

Louis Theroux is now.

Well, no, I was funny.

LAUGHTER

But you know what I mean? It was that way that you got...

No, I mean, I know how to, you know, flirt a little bit and...

so, you know, it wasn't investigative journalism.

Really, it was a relationship.

And it was fantastic, proving a huge success.

Right, we've got your toffee sauce, which is butter, cream, and sugar.

Yeah, why are you laughing at me?

All the things that are fattening in your fridge,

just chuck it all in here.

None of that olive oil in this one.

Just put it straight on my bottom, you know.

Exactly, exactly. Pass the middleman.

And then our ice cream. You're going to like this one. Frozen bananas.

All you do is blend them with buttermilk, sugar, and vanilla,

and the whole lot goes in.

But before you did the Ruby Wax Meets...

you were a writer?

I wrote some of... I script-edited Ab Fab, yeah.

-But what brought you to the UK in the first place?

-I was...

I wanted to be in the Royal Shakespeare Company,

and so I went to drama school

and I did tongue exercises for three years

to get the English accent I have today.

And then I got into the Royal Shakespeare Company,

because Trevor Nunn really liked what I could do with my tongue.

-This was all with Helen Mirren and...

-No, Rickman.

Alan Rickman and Richard Griffiths and Zoe Wanamaker, yeah.

Helen's a little older, thanks.

So why did you turn into acting, then?

Because I thought I could be a great Shakespearean actor,

and then Alan Rickman said,

"I think you better go into comedy, quick."

And he directed all of my shows

and even this one, he handed me to Thea Sharrock,

who is a brilliant director, and so the show is born.

-But this is the best thing I've ever done.

-Fantastic.

-We look forward to it.

-Can I talk about my forums?

Go on. I'm just going to blend. You don't mind me blending while...

I'll shout. OK, every... BLENDER WHIRS

-Can you hear me?

-I'll stop.

OK, every Thursday, because the audience are so interested in,

you know, so many people have problems,

but we have no place to meet,

we've started a forum every Thursday where, between two and four,

and it's free, if you come in and you need help or you're a carer,

or you know somebody that's ill,

we have a whole staff there

who can direct you where to go in the country

to get help or where medication is, or what a good shrink is.

And then we have, like,

Camila Batmanghelidjh is speaking next week.

Between two and four on Thursday at the Menier Chocolate Factory.

It's free, and I serve cookies. There!

-Sounds good. Right...

-BLENDER WHIRS

Blend this. That's just buttermilk, bananas.

Takes about 20 seconds to blend.

Meanwhile, I'm going to take that little pot here.

-We've got our chocolate brownie.

-Wow!

Our DOUBLE chocolate brownie, which we can break up.

Serve it warm as well, that's a good thing.

This has had about sort of 45 minutes in the oven.

And then very quickly, you end up with ice cream in here.

How does it end up frozen?

Because you've frozen the bananas,

cut them into chunks, freeze them, blend it with buttermilk,

a bit of sugar's gone in there, vanilla,

and we end up very, very quickly...

That's us. Just get that bit.

It turns into ice cream.

And you can do this with strawberries, with apples...

I know you like yoghurt smoothies.

You can do the same thing with that. Exactly the same thing.

-Like, I've been listening to this, you know (!)

-There we go.

You've got ice cream.

Wow...let me taste. Let me taste.

LAUGHTER

Oh, I love you. HE LAUGHS

A lot.

-Check that out!

-Yep.

-There you go.

-I'm very titillated.

Because all these people are watching this...

Oh, my God!

..at gymnasiums...

See, with your English foods, with your yellow custards

and your toad-in-the-holes...THAT'S food!

-LAUGHTER

-Yeah!

-If you are at the gym, you need to run a lot faster.

-Yeah.

Alternatively, you can eat one of these.

But I personally wouldn't bother. You might as well eat that.

I'll eat this. You come to my show, Losing It.

I will do. Tell me what you think of that.

It's very good, isn't it?

It's better than anything I've ever experienced.

I'm not just saying that. LAUGHTER

That was one very happy Ruby there.

Today, we're taking a look back at some of the tastiest recipes

from the Saturday Kitchen archives - loads of inspiring dishes to come.

Up next, it's Martin Blunos

with the perfect dish to use up leftover potatoes.

Welcome to the show, Martin.

Good to have you on the show. So, what are we cooking?

Well, it's pork medallions with Jersey Royals

and this St George cheese.

So very simple - it's a leftovers dish, really. And...

Both of which are very topical at the moment -

Jersey Royals, coming to the end of the season,

pork, particularly,

because we need to support the pork producers in the UK.

Because I think there was

a tradition that it was a bit dangerous,

you had to cook it right through,

but I think with the husbandry of animals

and the way they're fed now,

it's a good piece of meat, and we ought to embrace it.

And the price of their food has gone up quicker than petrol, really.

Absolutely, absolutely.

If pigs drove cars, that'd be the end of it! Now...

Good connotation, but, yeah, all right!

Right, what are doing with this?

Well, I've got some bacon here as well,

some nice, cured, streaky, with the pork.

I'm going to get that on, and what I need you to do,

with the Jersey Royals, I've got some here that are already cooked.

I want you to chop them up, or slice them up.

Now, you mentioned about leftovers.

The thing is with Jersey Royals, that I can't understand,

I was in a restaurant the other day,

and they'd scrubbed all the skin off.

Yeah, which is sacrilege.

It's where, you know...

It's the time as well. The time to do that,

then, you should be spending time doing something else.

You said yourself, all the goodness is under the skin.

So...what I've done with the streaky here is just chop this up

into nice, little, manageable pieces.

Now you could use ready-sliced streaky

but I think it's nice to have little cubes that you do yourself.

Into a pan, little bit of oil, not too much because

you've got to render out some of this fat

that's actually in the bacon,

nice and greasy.

Back bacon is too like the fillet,

it's much too lean, so we want the fat flavour to come out

from that bacon, that's nicely cured.

You're slicing up the potatoes.

I think the best thing with leftovers is

you never cook just what you need, you always cook more than you want.

You don't get much left in my house!

So you just render in the fat from the...

Well, there's a little bit of oil there to start it off

but what happens is the heat will actually bring it down

and as the fat starts coming out, that will flavour the potatoes.

Now, talking of pork and using the fillet, with this one

you want a dry-cured bacon, not the wet-cure?

Yeah, dry-cure. If that was wet-cure it'd go all wet and bubbly

and poach rather than cook.

Now, here's the pork fillet. This has been trimmed -

there's no sinew on it, OK?

This is a full fillet, so they're normally about this size.

They do taper off. What I'm going to do, to make it more manageable,

is cut it quite large and on the angle.

Before we cut it, the thicker end would be here with the little nodule on the end?

But if we were looking at beef, this would be the chateaubriand,

the little fillet steaks, and the little mignon steaks at the end.

The little tail bit, yeah.

And it's exactly the same - it cooks very quickly,

there's very little fat, hence putting this fat

to balance it, OK?

So what I'm going to do is just cut the pork nice and sort of thick-ish

but on the dias,

because you want to create a really nice sort of slice.

The little medallions are much too small - they dry out too much.

And then with the back of the hand, just really

bang them out a little bit, and all you're doing

is just flattening them slightly to make them even,

and also you're going to get, just to loosen the fibres up.

You mentioned about the cooking of it,

the thing about pork fillet is it's often quite dry

because it's a lean piece of meat, you don't

really want to overcook it.

Not at all.

Again, you can have pork slightly underdone,

just slightly. A little bit pink. Not too much, because then it's raw.

That's the difference, where people get a bit confused,

if it's oozing blood then you can get away with it.

Patrick, do you have much pork in your Caribbean food, or...?

Well, at the moment,

we've got a belly pork, jerk belly pork, on the menu.

Tend to use it, we confit that,

and the fat and the jerk works really well,

the spice and the fat work well together.

That combination of, the great thing about belly pork is the amount

of sort of fat to meat, isn't it?

You've got to really cook it properly.

I mean, it's key to have as much fat as possible with your pork.

It makes the dish completely lush.

There you go. What else have we got?

OK, so, the potatoes are on,

you can see the bacon starting to colour up,

and the spuds just getting a little bit of colour.

Onto a hot griddle, all I do is brush the pork

with a little bit of oil,

little bit of season, straight off the hot griddle

and you don't need to shake them round or turn them.

You want a very harsh cooking period because you want to seal

all those juices in. Otherwise it will go dry.

You're shredding up the spring onions there.

On the "dias", apparently?

On the dias, that's it. It's got to be, it creates a bit more shape.

You've got the whole thing about visual image.

It's the way you eat, visually. You're looking at me like...

-It's a chopped spring onion!

-All right.

He's chopped up the spring onions!

He's chopped them on the dias, now,

what it is, as well, these are in season now.

You can get them all year round, but this is the best time of the year.

-They are growing really well in my garden at the moment.

-Oh, right.

You're chopping up the gherkin,

we're using the big gherkins here, the

dill pickles, not the little, sweet, sharp, acidic, French cornichon.

This is a full-on gherkin. This is a man's gherkin, that, isn't it?

Well... Don't tell my missus!

So what are we doing now?

This is the St George cheese. This is amazing stuff.

Just discovered this one.

It's a raw milk cheese. From the island in the Azores,

the island of Sao Jorge.

Now, what I like about it is, the cows are left out all year round,

so the milk is the same. You don't get any crossover with winter.

Winter-tasting cheese is different,

it's a different flavour of milk. It's available in this country.

There's a little company that brings it in. Real Cheese Company.

They're bringing it into the country.

Really good stuff, because it cooks well, and it eats well raw.

So we're just going to melt this down into the potatoes.

You can see that it grates up. It's amazing.

It's a bit like, I don't know, a very, very mild Parmesan,

or a slightly sort of creamier Cheddar.

If somebody can't find this, what would be its nearest?

You could use a Gruyere, or you could get away with even a Cheddar.

I've heard about it. It's a cheeseboard cheese,

but if you cook with it, it does melt nicely.

Yeah, it's not one that goes all very stringy.

It does break down. It's got quite an intense flavour, as well.

So I'm going to turn the pork now.

As you can see, you've got the little lines on there...

I don't know if you guys are a bit of a cheese fan,

-but you can dive into that. Probably never tasted that before.

-Thank you.

Quite unusual. So we're frying off the potatoes and the bacon.

Yes, they're coming out. I'm going to pop the old spring onions in now.

What you want them to do, because they're mild, you don't

want them to cook, you just want them to soften up.

They're going to soften up in that potato mixture.

We're going to put a little bit of pepper in there now,

but no salt, because of the bacon and because of the cheese.

Because the cheese has got those little salty crystals in there.

Now, when you were last on, your restaurant was kind of being built.

It's been opened now?

-The restaurant that's within the hotel...

-I mean the pub one.

The pub is up and running in Cheltenham, doing great stuff,

12 weeks now. Simple, honest sort of pub fare.

That's what it's all about. Keep it simple, keep it honest.

But what about the Michelin sort of stuff?

You're going back into the kitchen?

Yeah, that's coming as well with the hotel group I'm involved with.

We are developing a premises in Bath, which is home,

and that will be open, we're hoping, in about 18 months' time,

so that will be the fine dining, and then we've got the pub food.

-This is the sort of thing...

-You're doing in the pub. OK.

So, cheese goes in. And I'll just give that a couple of turns

and pull it off the heat.

And what will happen is, the residual heat of everything

will just sort of soften everything down.

All I get to do is chop stuff. That's all I do. Spend my life.

So this is the gherkins, the man-sized gherkins!

The man-sized gherkins! Well, it is where I'm from, anyway.

-It's cold, you know what I mean?

-And we've just got some dill in there.

Little bit of dill, and the dill just gives it that nice perfume,

that freshness to it. And the gherkin is the acid,

it's going to cut through the richness of the cheese.

-OK.

-Into a bowl with a little bit of olive oil.

-Yes, Chef, OK.

And, a bit quicker, if you can!

-So...

-It's all right, he's only on once every six months!

It'll be once a year from now on!

Little bit of olive oil.

Salt and pepper. There you go. OK.

So, you can see this is all coming together.

Going to start dishing up the cheesy potatoes.

-So that's kind of like a dish on its own, really.

-Yeah, this is great.

You can have this one for breakfast with a fried egg on top.

You can't go wrong. I mean, it's...

We will just put those few on there.

And you can make a fancy, little, pretty quenelle with that.

The pork...

is pretty much there.

Lovely. Just turn those over.

-I'm ready.

-OK.

So, we got one there, just put the other one by the side there.

-And then...

-Put that over the top.

We've got a little bit of sweet paprika which is just going to

give it a little bit more spice.

And that is just to finish it off.

A little flourish of paprika. So remind us what that is again.

That is seared medallions of pork fillet

with Jersey Royals and Sao Jorge cheese.

And man-sized gherkins!

And man-sized gherkins!

Right, everything switched off? Come on over here.

This is where you get to dive into this.

I don't know how you feel about this at ten o'clock in the morning.

-I'm impressed.

-Dive in. Great, this. And so simple.

Cooked in real-time apart from the...

-You could actually cook the Jerseys from scratch.

-You could do.

-Tell us what you think of that.

-I'm loving it already.

The cheese is quite interesting. Where do people by that from?

-Online or something?

-I think you'd get it online.

Real Cheese Company, I know that they do

Partridges Market in London, so pop along there.

That's a top-class breakfast.

There you go, there you go!

Dive in, everybody, dive in.

Couldn't you use...? You used pork, of course,

you could use chicken or something like that.

Like I say, you could top it with an egg,

you could put chicken, veal, anything, really.

I mean, pheasant, game.

Because the cheese, I think, has got enough oomph to carry that.

-So it would be good.

-Interesting combination as well.

And get the Jersey Royals potatoes while you can because there's only a couple of weeks left.

That cheese is fantastic. It's nice as a cheeseboard cheese, but cooked...

It takes on a whole different thing. What do you think?

The man-sized gherkins made it. Absolutely lovely!

Yes, we like that one.

Martin Blunos there with his man-sized gherkin.

Who would have thought?

Now time to indulge in some vintage Floyd,

and this week he's popping out to sea for some proper pilchards.

They say that salmon is the king of fish, so to cook the king of fish, we ought to ask one of the queens

of British cookery, and I'm sure foodies will need no introduction

to Joyce Molyneux here, who is one of the best cooks in the land.

-She's operating in Dartmouth. What are you going to do with the salmon?

-I thought we'd do it two ways.

A classic way, served simply with Hollandaise, cooked with a little white wine and seasoning,

which is just a very simple, classic way of cooking it.

The other alternative is salmon in pastry, which is an old favourite of the Perry-Smith family of cooks,

and I think it's a delightful way as well.

Incidentally, I'll tell you how to make the sauce because we've got it ready to make life easier.

We'll let you know how that happens. What are you doing now?

A bit of salt and pepper on these, tossed lightly in butter,

pour a little white wine on, cover and cook,

-as lightly as possible.

-Fine, you go ahead with that.

Do you think that salmon of all fish needs to be slightly undercooked?

There's been a revolution in cooking, which came from France and is now firmly with us here.

-And fish needs to be slightly undercooked.

-Yes.

It is preferable to be slightly undercooked, it's just nice to eat, you get more of a taste of the fish.

I've got a little melted butter in a copper tray there,

on a solid hot stove.

-And that's going to cook away for...

-Just very gently start it off.

I shall turn them over with a fish slice, pour a little white wine over

then put them in a cool oven.

Do you find that here by the sea, you've got access to every kind of fish, do people appreciate fish?

Yes, they do indeed. I think they actually appreciate

unusual sorts of fish but we're most happy of course,

to serve the salmon that comes out of the Dart river here. It's lovely.

-You feel that every salmon you serve has just come out of the river.

-Driven past the front of the shop.

It's gone past us! You may not have seen it, but there it is, it has swum past us.

A little white wine on that.

-And some tinfoil if you want.

-If I may.

Did you see that all right? That's just a drop of white wine.

There's a huge myth that you've got to swamp things in white wine.

You're just using wine there to get the natural juices from the fish to combine with that.

That juice is lovely to eat with the fish. You could just finish the juices off with cream.

It's nice to have the natural juices

because you have the lovely salmon flavour with the Hollandaise sauce.

We'll cover that with tinfoil.

And we're just going to pop it in the oven here.

There's been a radical change towards cooking and eating

throughout the country in the last ten or 15 years.

People are more interested but I have a feeling

that they're over-complicating things

and they're not following the basic principles.

They're too eager about having a piece of salmon just because it's salmon, then covering it with cream,

-when in fact, they would be better off with a very simple but fresh herring.

-Yes, indeed.

There isn't anything nicer than fresh herring,

it's so lovely and moist. I think it's absolutely delicious.

Perhaps sometimes people feel that the more they add to fish,

or the more they do with things,

-the better it's going to become, and it isn't always so.

-It's like...

You feel they're paying... Particularly in a restaurant,

that they're paying a lot of money

so they want something that's been very well worked on, whereas,

what they should be paying for

-is the best ingredients cooked simply.

-And a great deal of love.

Love's the most marvellous thing. Fantastic, yes.

I was shocked the other day, I was at a point to point and we were all talking about Range Rovers...

and I was talking to a young lady, the wife of a well-known actor,

and she said, "The great thing was I went to cordon bleu, it was great,"

and I expressed my provocative views about cordon bleu cooks.

And I put the idea that she could have in fact learnt just as much

or more from her mother, and she said,

"Girls of my class don't have mothers who cook,

"we don't do such things." It's appalling.

It is. I'm sure it couldn't happen in France where it's, as you know, quite different.

In general, people are more interested in food nowadays.

-This is a new thing. Before the war, one didn't talk about food.

-It was like not talking about sex.

-Or death nowadays.

-Yes.

These unmentionable subjects, but now everybody enjoys food much more.

-And perhaps it's gone to the other extreme with so many cookery books about.

-There's too much.

Too many colour supplements telling how us how we ought to live without going into the nitty-gritty.

-Nitty-gritty as you said is the freshness, and the cooking... We are cooking aren't we?

-We are indeed!

How's that going on? We're going to try and get this out the oven if you don't mind staying with us a bit.

The thing about meeting one of these super cooks like Joyce

-is that...

-Not quite ready.

-Not quite? In again for a second?

-A couple of minutes.

Can I show you what it means by "not quite"? That's a little too pink. You want it like that.

-When it's all like that, it'll be ready.

-But a little pink in the centre.

-A little pink in the centre.

There we are. Another five minutes in the oven.

Joyce, you've done a marvellous job of that.

-You've put Hollandaise over it and a little fennel to give it a hint of aniseed...

-Yes.

-..which is nice.

-I'm looking forward to the first salmon of the season.

-Splendid.

-You eat because I've got to explain to my fans -

hello, gastronauts, haven't seen you for a while.

The Hollandaise sauce is terribly simple, I do hope Joyce won't contradict me.

As long as you've got a food-processor, break in the yolks of three eggs into it,

whisk it up till they're frothy and then pour in a half pound pack of melted unsalted butter,

very slowly whizzing the food-processor the whole time.

It'll turn into a nice thick yellow custard which you can pour over salmon, hard-boiled eggs, asparagus,

new-boiled potatoes, a leg of lamb - anything you like.

It's a versatile sauce, very simple and it's brilliant.

See you in a minute.

-Mm.

-Mm!

I think you know me well enough by now after the last five weeks,

for me to let you into a little secret.

I'll quote the Bard who said, "A surfeit of the sweetest things,

"to the stomach a certain loathing brings."

Ah, dear gastronauts, what a splendid sight.

Here we are on this pilchard boat, drifting red sails in the sunset,

this proud remnant of an industry

which once supported thousands ashore and afloat

has become, like so many fine traditions, the victims of apathy.

Or do I mean progress?

As a boy, the first fish I caught and cooked was a wild trout,

on a Somerset May morning,

so I can't get excited about trout farms.

Tanks of sullen fish waiting for the supermarket's order

make me sad, because these days, the apocryphal trout

is the gastronomic crutch of the lazy or unscrupulous restaurateur.

But here on the river Mole, Caroline Boa's recipe for trout

is intriguing, if you read the right newspaper.

-Well, it has to be a tabloid.

-It has to be a tabloid?

-Definitely.

Can't you rip up The Times? I'm sure it would taste a bit better.

Well, I suppose if you've got the time, you could rip up The Times.

Well, we haven't got the time for The Times.

Clive, I know you've been out of the business for a long time.

Come down and have a look at the trout

so we can show the good people at home the essential ingredients.

Which are fresh trout from Caroline's farm

right outside the window here,

sea salt, for seasoning it in a moment,

a little lemon juice as well,

which we're going to put on, and surprise, surprise,

a prime ingredient - one of Mr Murdoch's poorer efforts.

-OK. You're the expert here.

-All right.

You show me what we're going to do.

I'm putting the fish literally like that in the newspaper,

apart from putting some sea salt in the cavity, as we call it.

-Or its tummy.

-Tummy. I'm not going to do anything to it.

No butter, no other ingredients.

Now I'm going to make it up into, I hope, a neat parcel.

Can you make Christmas trees and things like that out of newspaper?

You could try!

I bet you were good at school, at sort of handicrafts and things.

-Girl Guides.

-Girl Guides!

-I've always wanted to cook with a Girl Guide.

-Now...

Come on, this is the important bit, you halfwit.

This is the essential preparation process.

And now you soak it until it's really wet.

I mean, not dripping, but really wet.

I'll give it a shake in a minute to get off the drips.

-OK.

-Now, that one is ready.

-Ready for what?

-To go in the oven.

-Oh, we cook it...

-We don't have to eat it out of the raw newspaper?

-You'll see.

Fine, fine. Good.

OK. Have a drink. Don't worry about the cameras, much more fun. Cheers.

-Great.

-Right.

-A mouthful of salt helps it go down.

Not bad wine, actually.

You see? You nearly forgot the salt, didn't you?

-You got overexcited!

-THEY LAUGH

It's the wine that does it.

-And then, repeat procedure.

-Repeat procedure with the tap.

Under the tap.

-We'll do this one.

-OK.

Give it a shake. Now they're going into the oven just like that.

Excellent. Of course, you know,

any sort of fish can be cooked in this way, or not?

It's a very good way for any whole fish that's got a skin on it,

and you'll see why in a minute, but it's a terrific way

for some sea fish which tend to make the house rather smelly.

Because there is no smell. The smell stays inside the newspaper.

Oh, it's really good.

So there's a smashing tip for those of you that like to eat fish

but can't stand the smell, gutless lot that you are.

Well, it does actually make the house stink

-when you've been cooking herring.

-Don't you mind having...?

I mean, surely the good thing about food are the smells that go with it.

I mean, the good thing about farming

is the smell of the dung and all that. Isn't that part of life?

I don't know, when you wake up in the morning

and you come downstairs and the kitchen stinks of sort of...

Yeah, but you're... I mean, you're here on your lovely farm.

You've got goats and geese and chickens and sheep

and things like that.

I'd rather have dung than stale herring smell.

You're not a disillusioned romantic, are you? Anyway...

-You could say that.

-Into the oven with those.

-OK.

Allow me, ma'am. I am a gentleman, after all.

-And I like to open an oven for a lady.

-OK.

So, what's happening to them now?

They're going into a hot oven, and they will take about 20 minutes,

but the thing is that you know they're cooked

-when the newspaper is dry, so it's foolproof.

-Absolutely perfect.

-And odourless.

-And odourless.

-Fine.

Now, stay down there for a second and bring the other ones out,

because, you see, we're running a bit short on time,

and the pubs will open in a minute,

and we don't want to miss the first drink of the evening.

We've done one of those things

that this programme has vowed never to do.

Just shows you can't believe everything you hear.

We have, I'm afraid, got some already ready,

just happened to have in the oven.

Bring them on, my darling, and we'll go and eat. There we are.

Two prepared beautiful newspaper trout, courtesy of Caroline.

We're going to eat them now.

-Now, I'm bound to make a pig's ear of this. Am I doing it right?

-Yes.

The outside bits, you can be fairly brutal. It's just the last layer.

I couldn't be brutal to a piece of food to save my life!

Right, I see what you mean.

The last layer, you've got to be careful how you...

Because the object now is to use the paper to peel the skin away.

That's right. It should take the skin with it.

It won't have newsprint all over the fish?

It won't have anything,

because all the skin and everything comes away with the newspaper.

Are you sure? You've done yours beautifully. Look, Clive.

Hers is perfect. Just in case I make a pig's ear of this,

look at that one to see how it really works.

But, on the other hand...

-Is it coming?

-With a masterly stroke of genius...

-There you go!

-Now...

-Turn it over with a swift...

-With a very swift plop like that.

-Yes.

That's it.

I haven't done it too well. Actually, I've done quite well, haven't I?

Those of you who don't like the head, by the way, there's a unique moment

to hack the head off, those of you who are a bit squeamish.

Let me take away all the gubbins.

-Lovely! Thanks very much.

-There you are.

-Great.

-Have some lemon.

-Good. Thank you. And some salt, probably.

Well, I'm going to taste it absolutely au naturel first of all,

because I think the idea of this is,

since it's been cooked with all the flavours kept in,

the true flavour of your wonderful fish should come out, shouldn't it?

-That's right.

-But, one thing I must say,

without wishing to cause any offence or anything at all like that,

I mean, trout farms seem to be springing up in such sort of

profligation these days, you're almost getting to the point

where it says, you know, "last trout farm before the motorway."

You know? But you reckon yours are the best trout,

and this is going to be the proof of the pudding, isn't it?

-Why are yours so good?

-Well, I think a lot of it depends on the water.

I mean, we use a river that comes straight down from Exmoor,

and therefore, the river runs over granite and is very clean.

And it has a lot of mineral salts in it and all that sort of thing.

Also, the fish get an enormous turnover of water.

They're not sitting in sort of a muddy pond like that,

they're just actually having a turnover.

-Have some salad. Have some salad.

-No, the fish is just too good.

Actually, look me in the eye, Clive, please.

I'd like to make a sincere gesture. This fish is absolutely brilliant.

It really is. I recommend it as a way of cooking it.

It's quite the nicest trout I've ever had. Absolutely splendid.

-But do you enjoy cooking, in fact?

-This is an awful admission.

-I hate cooking!

-You hate cooking?!

I'm always having to cook, and I really don't like cooking at all.

That's why, in many ways, I find this such a super recipe.

It's so easy to do.

And when I've got people for lunch or something,

I do it like this, and then do it the night before,

and then in the morning, I just cut it open, and I've got cold...

Usually, I use a big one, and I've got it cold and pink

and lovely for a buffet, and put cucumber and stuff on it.

-Makes it look pretty like scales.

-Exactly.

And that's the easiest thing you can possibly do for a lunch party.

All you've got to do is make some salad.

And you don't have to fiddle about on the day, which is so much nicer.

It's a very good source of protein,

which is now actually at a price

as low as any other source of protein.

-I mean, it's less expensive than most meat.

-Sure.

It's no longer the luxury dish it always was, are you saying?

No, that's right. That's right.

I mean, it would be nice to keep the luxury image

and for people to think that they should have it for parties

and stuff, but in actuality, it's really less expensive

than almost any of the white fish or of meat or anything like that.

-What could be done to help sell more?

-Education, I suppose.

People have got to be taught that it is not only

a good source of protein, but also a delicious meal,

and an inexpensive one.

Time and time and time again,

everybody we speak to on these programmes,

the word "education" and then a lack of it comes up.

What is actually wrong with the Brits?

Why don't they eat fish properly?

Maybe it's just that we all moan a lot!

I don't know. I don't know.

I think people are very hidebound in the type of food that they eat.

-I think more than they ought to be.

-So they're a boring old lot, really?

-You said it!

-Well, you think so, or not?

No, I don't think so.

I think that when people discover new foods

and how easy it is to eat them and to cook them and enjoy them,

then I think that they do change.

But I think that they have got to do a bit more changing.

Just brilliant, and there'll be more from Keith next week.

Now, as ever on Best Bites, we're looking back at some of

our favourite recipes from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

Still to come on today's show, Angela Hartnett and Lawrence Keogh

go head-to-head in the Omelette Challenge.

Atul Kochhar serves up a spicy pie.

He makes a tasty filling of chicken, carrots, onions and spices

cooked in coconut milk and topped with a puff pastry lid,

sprinkled with coriander, cumin and black sesame seeds.

And Katy Brand faces her food heaven or food hell.

Did she get her food heaven, coriander fish curry

with coriander flatbread,

or her food hell, grilled pork chop with crisp black pudding,

cider sauce and greens? You'll have to find out at the end of the show.

Right, up next is Jason Atherton,

who's here with a dish of duck, chocolate and cherries -

kind of like a Black Forest Duck, then.

What are we cooking, then?

We're cooking Barbary duck, good British duck,

and were going to confit the legs, roast the breast,

we're going to make a little sauce with some port, some chicken stock,

-some thyme, garlic, little bit of watercress and cherries...

-Cherries, yeah.

..and then a sort of chocolate vinegar ganache which is going to help cut the richness of the fat.

-It wouldn't be you without a chocolate vinegar ganache.

-No.

But anyway, OK. But this recipe, we're going to use the entire duck.

-You want me to reduce this vinegar down?

-Please. If you can get on with the chocolate ganache,

and I'm just going to sort of butcher my duck quickly.

I'm going to take the legs off, cos we're going to confit these.

Then I want to take the breast off, but I'm going to do the...

Rather than like you would do on a traditional duck -

you'd roast it on the breast and render the fat down - we're going to do it completely different.

-We're going to take the fat off.

-Confit meaning slow-cooking, I suppose, in duck fat.

-Yeah.

When people are doing duck at home, if they want to do a whole roast duck,

cos there's loads of different ideas of how to get a really good roast.

What's yours? Do you cook it on the skin side?

Yeah, you've got to cook it skin side, and give it a good rubbing

in a little bit of lard or something like that, and season it up with a little bit of salt

-so it helps crisp the skin.

-So that's basically cooked upside down.

-And cook it slowly?

-Yeah, nice and slow, because you don't want to...

And don't be scared to overcook duck, cos duck's one of those meats

you can either eat it rare or you can eat it cooked all the way through. It's delicious.

So all we've done there, James, is take the skin off, as you can see.

So we've got a nice breast, and then we're going to quickly pop these into a pan.

Chocolate's going on in our little bain-marie there.

So what we've got in here is duck fat.

-Yeah.

-And we're just going to lower it down like that.

Pop in a little bit of thyme.

It's become popular in the UK over the past few years,

but the French have been cooking stuff like this for years,

-haven't they?

-Well, in the olden days, especially in places...

It was a way of, you know, using the whole duck -

eating the breasts fresh, and then submerging it in duck fat

and then when they used to have leaner months,

they used to then bring it out, take it out of the fat,

-and then they would eat it, yeah.

-Yeah, exactly.

-So you want me to do the cherries for this?

-Please, yeah.

So we've got the duck legs in there. Now you're going to do the skin,

-and the skin's gone in there as well?

-Skin's gone in there. That's going to cook with the bird.

So quickly season that. Can I just take a bit of butter?

We're going to pop that in there with a little bit of oil.

And then...

This will actually cook in real time, this duck breast, as well?

-Well, I hope so.

-Yeah.

The one that you're using - what type of duck is this?

-This is a Barbary duck.

-Because you did a little tasting on duck, didn't you, back in the restaurant, Nathan?

We were trying to come up with the best breast we could,

and we basically came up with... We tried eight different ones,

and the one that we came up with was the Cornish duck.

Well, it would be, wouldn't it?

-LAUGHTER

-Funnily enough.

And also Creedy Carver, which is from Devon.

So two really good West Country ducks, really.

But this is opposed to the French one, really,

cos you find, what, the Magret ducks?

Yeah, they're a great duck, but we're in Britain at the end of the day,

and let's champion British produce. That's what it all about, you know?

We give the French far too much credit.

Yeah, right. So we're reducing the red wine vinegar here.

This is 400ml, wants reducing down to about 100mls.

That's right. That's going all the way down. And then we'll quickly make the sauce.

The reason why we reduce it down is cos otherwise it'd be too strong

when you add it to the chocolate, and then the chocolate won't set.

So in goes our shallots, into the pan.

And then what I do, and it's a good little trick for people at home,

is when you're frying those, just add a little bit of sugar to it.

Helps sweeten the sauce up, at the same time,

-it helps thicken the sauce, you know?

-Yeah.

Little bit, like, what, a teaspoon of it?

-Yeah, yeah, couple of teaspoons.

-Yeah.

Bit of chopped thyme.

That's in there like that.

Whenever I speak to you,

-you're always gallivanting all over the place.

-Yeah.

Cape Town you've just been to?

Yeah, we've been in Cape Town for five weeks,

setting up the new restaurant, and that's gone really well.

It's at the One&Only resort down in Cape Town.

Isn't it quite difficult setting up a restaurant - I mean,

-I know abroad, but that far away?

-It's a lot of hard work, yeah.

It all sounds very glamorous, but it's a lot of hard work.

But at the same time a lot of fun.

And we get work with fantastic produce and new staff,

and we got to cook for Nelson Mandela, so that was a bit of fun.

Right, so the butter is going to go into our chocolate.

-That goes in there.

-But this really is like a chocolate ganache.

It's a savoury chocolate ganache.

This is how you make chocolate truffles,

or you can use double cream instead of butter.

Do you have to use a certain amount of cocoa in the chocolate?

70% and above, I always use, because it's more bitter,

so you end up with sort of, like, a better product, you know?

If you use the stuff that's got a lot more fat in it,

then it's a little bit more gooey texture,

where this is really nice and bitter, and you get that real chocolate flavour.

Right. You've got our ganache there.

-Now the cherries, you want them lightly chopped.

-Please, yeah.

-OK. They go through.

And then you can leave that confit in the oven about two hours,

the confit will probably take with the skin.