Worcestershire The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Worcestershire

Si and Dave cook a county favourite in Malvern Priory Park and dig their own asparagus. Diners decide who has created the best taste of Worcestershire.


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Transcript


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We're on the road to find regional recipes to rev up your appetite.

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We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

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-Come on.

-Wa-hey!

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Today, we're in search of the real taste of Worcestershire.

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Look at that, Dave!

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There it is, mate, the most spectacularly beautiful Worcestershire view. Look at it.

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-It's gorgeous, isn't it?

-Yes.

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And you know, the county town of Worcestershire is Worcester. What do you know about Worcester?

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Elgar's from Worcester.

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The only thing I know about Worcester is Worcester sauce.

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They used to say at one time if you rubbed it on your head it made your hair grow.

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I'm going to try a bit on my temples.

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-And there's hills as well, in Worcestershire.

-Yes, the Malvern Hills.

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Yeah, and the fabulous Georgian spa town of Malvern.

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-I'm looking forward to this.

-Come on, let's go and sample some sauce.

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Come on, let's off.

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On our quest to find the true flavours of Worcestershire,

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we rediscover a county classic that satisfies everyone's sweet tooth.

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It's on your marks, get set, go,

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as we compete to pick the finest asparagus in the world.

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Open sesame!

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We sample a fruity tipple, made by a perry enthusiast in his very own garage.

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And, representing Worcestershire in the cook off later, it's Sue Ellis.

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Will we be able to beat her

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in a blind tasting judged by local diners?

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First stop on our tour of Worcestershire

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is a little village called Ombersley.

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We've heard it's the county's foodie capital, so let's see what it's got on offer.

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Look, Kingy! We've got a deli, a butcher.

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I bet there's a baker.

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Do you know what we're missing? A candlestick maker. Come on.

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What we are trying to ascertain is what the taste of Worcestershire is.

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Pears, the Worcester black pear in particular, because it's on the county coat-of-arms.

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And I think it's also on the county cricket club jumper.

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That's great. That's fruit. Anything else?

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Well, asparagus, especially at this time of year - it's very local.

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You can't forget the beef. A lovely bit of beef here!

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Ha! I don't mean you, sorry!

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Ah! I was moving in there as well!

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Are there any real famous things in Worcestershire that you eat?

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-Asparagus.

-Asparagus.

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-Really?

-It would have to be Worcestershire sauce.

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-The sausage is really nice.

-Big Dave's?

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Yeah, Big Dave's is fabulous - from the butcher's just there.

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We need to go and have a look at Big Dave's sausage, that's what we need.

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-Dave. Dave!

-Where's your sausage, dude?

-Oh, look at this, mate.

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Hello. How are you fellas?

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This is a taste of Worcestershire, isn't it?

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So Dave, how long have your family been here?

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I am the fourth generation. My family's been here for over 100 years.

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-The butcher's always been here, and the delicatessen next door.

-What's your best seller?

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Probably our local beef or lamb, really, from local farms, it's very popular here.

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-I think for the flavour, and the people knowing it's local.

-It certainly is in your sausages.

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We are a bit of a sausage fan.

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-Go on, be kind to yourself.

-Oh, I might as well seeing as I'm here.

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I think we're probably best known for our sausages around here.

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Certainly places do just good value sausages,

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but these are real good, free-range pork and they're good quality stuff.

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-Oh, man.

-I'm a devil for a sausage.

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Hello. We're looking for a taste of Worcestershire.

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We can recommend the Elgar mature.

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-Or the Worcester sauce cheese.

-Ooh.

-Let's have a look.

-Lea & Perrins.

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-So, these are all Worcestershire cheeses.

-All local cheeses, yes.

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This is the Worcester sauce.

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You can't get any more local than that, can you?

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-That works beautifully, doesn't it?

-Do you like it?

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-Can you imagine that melted on toast? Oh!

-Can we try some Elgar?

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-He was from Worcester.

-He was, from Broadheath.

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Thank you. I can feel a Dream of Gerontius coming on.

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He's quite a strong old fella, Elgar, isn't he?

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That's as English as Elgar, isn't it?

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-Hello.

-Oh, hello.

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-Nice to see you here.

-And you. Thanks very much, it's very lovely.

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-This is very kind of you.

-My husband did all that for you especially.

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Do you have any traditional bread of Worcestershire?

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We've got some delicious home-baked bread here. We've used...

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May's mild beer bread.

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Yes. Now, Ted May is the landlord of the pub up the road. The Fruiterers Arms.

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And they actually make their own mild ale on the premises.

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-Is this it? It's lovely, isn't it?

-Great texture as well, springy.

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-I love springy moist bread.

-Nice. Gorgeous, isn't it?

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That's lovely. What to you is typically good Worcestershire food?

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-I lived in Malvern for a while and I have actually heard of a Malvern Pudding.

-What is it?

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Well, it's a very lightly baked sponge, with some fruit in,

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obviously from the local orchards.

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And also some apple as well, the local apples.

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-And it's very tasty.

-Brilliant, thank you.

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'So we're on the trail of what could be a unique county dish.

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'Will anybody be able to tell us more? Let's keep investigating.'

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-Has anybody ever heard of the Malvern Pudding?

-Yes, I have.

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Actually, it was my daughter, a long time ago when she was at university, we used to make it.

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Has anybody heard of the Malvern Pudding?

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-No.

-No.

-I've heard of it, yeah. My husband's from Malvern.

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Do you know what it is?

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I'm not sure, actually.

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It's driving me mad, this Malvern Pudding.

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-It's a mystery.

-It is.

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We still have no idea how to make Malvern Pudding, so we need to head

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to the historic town of Malvern, and the museum for some local knowledge.

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Wa-hey. The museum.

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The fountain of knowledge, and oracle that is the Malvern Pudding.

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If we can't find it here, we'll never find it.

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Look, Kingy! They've got loads of old fashioned ingredients here.

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But will they have any clues about the Malvern Pudding?

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There it is.

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That's it, we've got it.

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Hee hee. The search is over. A pound of cooking apples.

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An ounce of butter.

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What's next?

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You can't! It's an artefact.

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Come on!

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We'll bring it back, don't worry.

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'At last, we have the traditional recipe for the Malvern Pudding.

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'Time to get into the kitchen. This ancient tasty dish is layers of

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'cooked apples with a creamy custard topping. A delicious tea time treat.'

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Hello, and welcome to Priory Park, Malvern in Worcestershire!

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CHEERING

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Back to Georgian times. This time, we've gone super traditional,

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and this is a Malvern Pudding.

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It is the sort of pudding that the Georgians would have eaten

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after they got out of their kind of sulphurous water day of hell.

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It consists of the humble apple.

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Not just any apple. What's this now?

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-Bramley.

-That's right, a Bramley apple.

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Now, we got this recipe from the Malvern Museum.

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And the base for this - we'll do a lot -

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we want 4lb of cooking apples, peeled, sliced.

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Right. 4lb of cooking apples peeled and sliced.

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That'll be about two kilos. In new money.

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Two kilos in new money.

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-I'll just turn one of these on for you, Kingy.

-Thanks.

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I need to melt four ounces of butter.

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Oh, yum yum, hubba bubba. Add the apples.

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And that'll be four ounces of sugar, that's about 125 grams of sugar.

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Butter, apples.

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Sugar.

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-Apples.

-Apples. More apples.

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We have to cook those apples until they go golden and toffee,

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and really quite soggy.

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A bit like a stewed apple pie.

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There's a lot of sugar and butter in there so it should taste great.

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It's a bit of a two-part dish, the Malvern Pudding.

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They've got it down as sauce.

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But I reckon it's a bit like custard, isn't it, this?

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So first off, I need to beat four eggs.

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And in a pan, I need to melt four ounces of butter, which

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is conveniently 125 grams, which we have left over from the apples.

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I'm going to mash into that about four ounces or 125 grams of cornflour.

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Let it cook.

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A couple of minutes, it is bubbling, without browning.

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Step two, add the milk and bring to the boil, stirring.

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Simmer for two minutes.

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There's a lot of milk.

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I've added three pints.

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I always use whole milk for custard.

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I'll just keep tickling it like that.

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It comes to the boil, two minutes, it should be a nice thickness.

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It shouldn't taste floury cos I've cooked the flour out.

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I've got basically a white sauce here. This needs to become custard.

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So I'm going to stir in about four ounces, 125 grams of brown sugar.

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-The scary bit's to come yet.

-I know.

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And that's the eggs. Because if the eggs scramble, it won't be custard.

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Looking good, captain. You see that custardy feeling.

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Oh, yes!

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Oh!

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As I live and breathe, that's proper Georgian custard.

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The Malvern Pudding is looking a good 'un.

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We need two nice dishes.

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You line the bottom of the dish with apples.

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There we are. Now, this is our home-made custard.

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There's a lovely little boy over here, look.

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Hurray. What a sweetie.

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Now, you may think it was all over, but it's not!

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What we do next, we get a bowl,

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we put a handful of brown sugar in there.

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A couple of teaspoons of cinnamon.

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This is cinnamon sugar.

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That gets sprinkled all over.

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This is good Worcestershire butter.

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We just dot this with butter.

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Dot, dot, dip, dot.

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That's going to have a lovely toffee topping.

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Put that in under the grill. Shut the door.

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We're nearly finished. You're glad you stayed, aren't you?

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-ALL: Yes!

-Yes.

-The right response.

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-How's yours doing?

-It's bubbling like Kate Winslet at the Oscars.

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It's quick, that grill.

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-Yes, very hot.

-Look at that, it's starting to skin up nice.

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It can only be helped...

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by two scoops.

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Oh, now, look at that.

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And there we have it.

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The Malvern Pudding.

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As stolen from Malvern Museum.

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THEY CHEER Let's hear it for the pudding, yay!

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'Malvern Pudding is really simple to make.

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'Time for the local people to tuck in and give us their verdict.'

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The legendary Malvern Pudding.

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Thank you very much, what a sweet talker.

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There you go, darling.

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-That's lovely.

-It's fantastic, cos it's got apple, it's got the custard.

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You can really taste the cinnamon too.

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-Did you make this yourself?

-We did.

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I've got an apple orchard and I've never tried this recipe.

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-I'm going to try it.

-I'll have a go at making my own custard, because I've never tried home-made.

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-It's pretty easy.

-Great. I've lived here all my life and never had it.

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'We've helped the locals rediscover their traditional county dish. It certainly seemed to be a hit.

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'But a bigger challenge is just around the corner.'

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'As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant, using local ingredients

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'to see who can best define the taste of the region.'

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'It's up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents

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'the true flavours of Worcestershire.'

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'Our opponent today is Sue Ellis,

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'head chef at Belle House in Pershore.'

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Recently named Worcestershire Chef Of The Year, Sue has been selected

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as one of the top ten female chefs to watch by the Independent.

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This local girl is destined for international fame.

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I started off at Worcester College Of Technology, which is obviously local.

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I worked my way up the ranks quite quickly to junior sous chef.

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I then went down to Gordon Ramsay's Hospital Road.

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From there I went to the French Laundry and did a stage.

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We first opened Belle House six years ago.

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Three years later we opened up the Deli, which is a traiteur,

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which is ready meals, all our home-cooked bread.

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All the food from there comes from the same team of chefs in the kitchen.

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We are very big on having a good rapport with all of our suppliers.

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We have a look at the asparagus, at how it's grown,

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so we've got a real respect then for the food.

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90% of all our produce is local, so we get our eggs from Bromsgrove

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Nurseries, cured ham from Oxsprings.

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And then we have Pershore Produce who is all our vegetables and fruit.

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And we design the menu around what is good and good quality.

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We have quite a lot of height in our dishes, intricate detail.

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It's quite artistic on the plate, but also it's about the flavours.

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We do what people love, so stews, broths, things like that.

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And we know where we've come from.

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We've also just started doing food demos,

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cos our customers are interested in what we do and want hints and tips.

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To take on the bikers, my taste of Worcestershire

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is local pigeon with honey, wrapped in filo pastry,

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creamed artichokes, local purple sprouting, and cabbage.

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Hurry up, mate, we're here.

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It looks a nice place, doesn't it?

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-Lovely.

-Hi there, guys, how are you doing?

-Hello.

-Nice to meet you.

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-Nice to see you.

-Do you want to come on in?

-Oh yes, chef.

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Sue, can you headline your dish for us?

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I certainly can. We're doing pigeon wrapped in filo pastry, with honey.

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Artichoke puree. Cabbage, and also some creamed potato.

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-Are they local then?

-Yes.

-From the local park?

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They are pretty local. They've been shot yesterday. Put them in this, a vac-pack bag.

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We're going to put them in a water bath. Yes, certainly.

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Don't even say boil in the bag, no.

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I can see it coming!

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So you've got butter and thyme.

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We've got some thyme in there, some honey as well.

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-Ah, I see.

-This now is going to cook this to perfection.

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Just pop this in the vac-pack machine now. Seal them up.

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Just going to put that in now.

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-There we go. 25 minutes. 68 degrees.

-Brilliant.

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Next we are going to do potatoes and the artichokes.

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Are you going to peel these for me, then?

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Give you all the good jobs!

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Just put a bit of vitamin C powder in to stop them discolouring.

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-Ah, so that's a top tip.

-It is, yes.

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-Would you say it's better than using a squidge of lemon juice?

-Yeah, definitely.

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Because you've got more control over what you put in, how acidic it is.

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You don't get that lemony flavour, just a bit of acidic flavour.

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-Top tip.

-There you go.

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You're a bit on the slow side there. I'll help you out there.

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What do you mean!

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-So are these Worcestershire potatoes, Sue?

-Yeah, these are Marfona.

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So these are just grown up the road.

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Cut the ends off. I'm just making a little cylinder out of this.

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That's an efficient way of doing this.

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So we've got mash going on, artichoke puree going on in a minute.

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I'm just going to pop this into a pan.

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Do you want water in this, chef?

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Yes please, and a bit of salt would be great.

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We're going to do the artichokes next.

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Potatoes, salt. I'll let you salt your own.

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I don't want make a mess. What did you do with those potatoes?

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I've just put a little bit of potato in. There's milk in there.

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Then our artichokes.

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-And then this is for the artichoke puree.

-So the artichoke puree has got some potatoes in.

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Yes, that just helps to thicken it.

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All I'm doing is the artichoke and the milk. Then I'm using the milk to blend it in. And that's the puree.

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-Ah, so all the flavours are retained. Brilliant.

-Yeah.

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Just to recap. In there we've got some milk, sliced potato, sliced Jerusalem artichoke.

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Yep. We are going to pop that on stove now.

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There we go.

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This is the little galette potato.

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-Just slicing these.

-They make me eyes cross!

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Put some cornflour in now.

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We add a little bit more starch, obviously there's some already in there.

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So we've got very thinly sliced potatoes.

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-We've got some salt and butter and cornflour.

-Rubbing the cornflour in.

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-This dish, you want the potatoes to stick together.

-Exactly.

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Just going to pop them on there.

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-Ah.

-Fan them around.

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Just overlap them enough so that they are sticking together.

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-Hey presto, bake it off, and you've got potato galette.

-That's it, yeah.

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What a nice thing to see happen.

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Do you know what I mean, it's lovely, it's great.

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-That's something we'll pinch, Kingy.

-For sure.

0:17:120:17:16

I'll put another one on top, it stops it from slipping.

0:17:160:17:18

Then we'll put the other one on top.

0:17:180:17:20

-I have to say, there's nothing worse...

-A tray on top.

0:17:200:17:25

-We'll get the pigeon out next.

-# Catch the pigeon! #

0:17:250:17:28

Now we are going to chill it down enough so that it starts to firm up a little bit.

0:17:280:17:33

-If you want to run that in the fridge for us.

-Of course.

-That will be great.

0:17:330:17:36

You need to be careful cos he keeps locking himself in the freezers.

0:17:360:17:39

-He was in there for a day and a half once.

-Didn't let him out?

-I thought we'd have a bit of a rest.

0:17:390:17:45

Ooh. It's those potato galettes.

0:17:450:17:49

Great.

0:17:490:17:51

CRUNCHING

0:17:510:17:52

What's eating in there?

0:17:520:17:54

MYERS! Stop eating people's stuff!

0:17:550:17:58

For God's sake, what are you eating?

0:17:580:18:02

-Nothing. I just had a peek.

-Yes, give us a look? It's nutty.

0:18:020:18:06

-I love a good fridge.

-Now he's out of the fridge.

0:18:060:18:09

-I'm really sorry.

-That's OK, that's all right.

0:18:090:18:11

-Could you drain these off for me.

-Certainly, chef.

0:18:110:18:14

What else do you need, chef?

0:18:140:18:15

Potatoes, chef.

0:18:160:18:18

I've put those potatoes back on the heat to dry out. Any excess water.

0:18:180:18:23

I'm just going to put these in.

0:18:230:18:25

And then while you're doing that, I'll get a bit of cream on and a bit of butter to reduce that.

0:18:250:18:30

Great, chef. That's it, through.

0:18:300:18:32

Great, thank you. Got our butter and our cream. We'll boil that up.

0:18:320:18:36

And we'll pop that mash in now.

0:18:360:18:39

We don't need anything else in that. A bit of salt and we are all done.

0:18:400:18:43

-We'll keep that for later until our pigeon's all ready.

-Brill.

0:18:430:18:47

We'll pop him over there. Now our artichokes are going to be ready.

0:18:470:18:51

I'm worn out, me.

0:18:510:18:52

-If you can drain half that liquor off for me.

-Yep.

0:18:520:18:55

Just blend this down now to a puree.

0:18:550:18:59

-BEEPING

-OK, that's my timer for my galettes.

0:18:590:19:01

So if you can carry on there, that would be great. Cheers my dear.

0:19:010:19:04

-Wow! They're fantastic, aren't they?

-A fine set of galettes you have there, madam.

0:19:050:19:10

They're like sunflowers, aren't they? Brill.

0:19:100:19:12

And get rid of that, that's hot.

0:19:120:19:14

That will be grand now, thank you.

0:19:160:19:18

Next, we just need a pigeon. That's all perfectly cooked now.

0:19:180:19:21

Even though it looks still quite red, it's cooked all the way through perfectly, the same temperature.

0:19:210:19:26

-Evenly.

-That's why we use it, you don't get the bull's eye effect

0:19:260:19:29

of cooking on the outside, and red in the middle.

0:19:290:19:32

Just pat all this dry.

0:19:320:19:34

Filo pastry is lovely, isn't it? Egg yolk.

0:19:360:19:40

-OK, egg yolk.

-Egg yolk on pastry.

0:19:400:19:43

Yep, we do want any water in there, we just want it thick.

0:19:430:19:46

Love it when it comes to wrapping things up into nice little parcels.

0:19:460:19:50

-It appeals to me.

-There we go.

0:19:500:19:53

So, on there.

0:19:530:19:54

OK.

0:19:570:19:58

-You'll be wanting another egg yolk, won't you?

-I will! Thank you.

0:19:580:20:01

I'll just go to the fridge!

0:20:010:20:03

< It's gone quiet.

0:20:060:20:08

MYERS!

0:20:080:20:09

Coming. >

0:20:090:20:11

Flipping heck!

0:20:110:20:13

I fell over the fridges!

0:20:130:20:15

SHE LAUGHS

0:20:150:20:16

That's that done. I'm going to pop this on the tray with a bit of the old egg wash.

0:20:160:20:21

And pop them in the oven for about six to eight minutes, just so it's nice and crunchy.

0:20:210:20:26

Then do our purple sprouting and our cabbage.

0:20:260:20:28

You can use a small part of this.

0:20:280:20:30

The spring cabbage is obviously in season right now.

0:20:300:20:33

-Purple sprouting broccoli - very fashionable, isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:20:330:20:36

So, Oxsprings oak-smoked ham.

0:20:390:20:41

Going to cut it down.

0:20:410:20:43

It's little lardons, isn't it?

0:20:430:20:45

Going to cook our cabbage first.

0:20:450:20:48

Mm-hmm?

0:20:480:20:50

We're going to pop that in there.

0:20:500:20:52

That is literally just going to take 30 seconds.

0:20:520:20:54

Meanwhile, put a knob of butter into our pan.

0:20:540:20:57

And that's the timer for the pigeon, so I'll just go and grab that.

0:20:590:21:03

Oh, it's all kicking off now, dude, isn't it?!

0:21:030:21:05

Thank you.

0:21:080:21:09

There's our little pigeons.

0:21:090:21:11

Chef, this cabbage is ready.

0:21:120:21:13

A little bit more butter. And a bit of black pepper.

0:21:130:21:16

Beautiful. Going to pop our purple sprouting in the water as well, crispen the bacon up now.

0:21:170:21:23

Tiny bit of salt in there, cos we're going to put the salty bacon in.

0:21:270:21:30

Bit of pepper.

0:21:300:21:32

Just a bit of clarified butter, good knob of butter in there for good measure.

0:21:320:21:37

At that jaunty chef angle!

0:21:370:21:39

-There you go.

-Wow!

-Still pink in the middle.

0:21:410:21:44

-That's perfect.

-There you go.

0:21:440:21:46

Yeah. You've just let them rest a bit, haven't you, Sue?

0:21:460:21:49

Yes. They've rested as they've come out of the oven. OK.

0:21:490:21:53

-Ah!

-See?

0:21:550:21:56

And then just a bit of our bacon.

0:21:560:21:58

There we go.

0:21:580:22:00

It's like a little plant pot!

0:22:000:22:03

-Artichoke puree.

-Would that be a smear or a drag quenelle?

-A swipe!

0:22:030:22:07

A swipe! Oh, that's a new one!

0:22:070:22:10

Oh! Sauce! Where's that come from?

0:22:200:22:23

All we do is chop up the bones, we've got some red currant jelly

0:22:230:22:27

and then we boil that up and then here's one we made earlier!

0:22:270:22:34

Headline your dish, kid!

0:22:340:22:35

OK, so we've got local pigeon, honey, wrapped in filo pastry,

0:22:350:22:39

creamed artichoke puree, our galette potato, purple sprouting,

0:22:390:22:44

air-dried ham, and our local cabbage.

0:22:440:22:48

It's been a pleasure!

0:22:490:22:50

-What an elegant dish! And it's executed perfectly.

-Absolutely.

0:22:500:22:56

And what's interesting is that what's actually on the plate is pretty simple.

0:22:560:22:59

But, as you say, her execution is amazing.

0:22:590:23:05

-That sauce is great.

-The sauce is awesome.

0:23:080:23:12

Mmm!

0:23:120:23:13

That was fabulous.

0:23:150:23:17

Posh crisps!

0:23:170:23:19

One thing that strikes me, though, is that presentation-wise, whatever we do, it's got to be perfect.

0:23:190:23:25

Yeah, it has. It has.

0:23:250:23:27

It's all very well what we think, but the real judges are the locals

0:23:270:23:31

who will decide whose dish is best in the blind tasting coming up.

0:23:310:23:36

Lots of people have told us about Worcestershire asparagus.

0:23:360:23:38

Quite right! It's said to be the best in the world.

0:23:380:23:41

'The Revell family have been farming in Defford for five generations

0:23:410:23:43

-'and grow 70 acres of the gorgeous green spears.'

-Look at that!

0:23:430:23:49

Fresh new season asparagus, doesn't get better than that!

0:23:490:23:51

-'Farm manager, Darren Hedges, is showing us around.'

-Hi, guys.

0:23:510:23:54

-Hello, Darren.

-How do you fancy cutting some asparagus?

0:23:540:23:56

-We've got the buggies here for you. Fancy giving it a go?

-Absolutely!

0:23:560:23:59

I think it's one of the culinary treasures.

0:23:590:24:02

OK guys, what I need you to do is cut the asparagus the length of the knife, OK?

0:24:020:24:07

So basically, what we do, we're just holding the asparagus,

0:24:070:24:09

knife in, simple as that. OK?

0:24:090:24:12

-At an angle?

-At an angle.

0:24:120:24:14

You ready, Kingy?

0:24:140:24:15

Ready!

0:24:150:24:17

On your marks, get set, go!

0:24:170:24:19

Why is it so good for asparagus round here, then?

0:24:260:24:29

We're blessed with perfect soil conditions,

0:24:290:24:31

the drainage is really good.

0:24:310:24:34

And the light conditions are perfect for growing asparagus in this area.

0:24:340:24:37

Keep up, Kingy! I've got lots more than you, I think!

0:24:370:24:40

D'you know, if I was doing this full-time, I'd pimp me ride!

0:24:400:24:44

-Would you?

-I'd bling it up, yeah!

0:24:440:24:47

Be nice to have a nice sound system, wouldn't it? You know, ddhh! Dhhh! Dhhhh!

0:24:470:24:51

Is it right the asparagus season starts on St George's Day and lasts for about six weeks?

0:24:510:24:55

-Or how long is it?

-That's how it used to be in the old days.

0:24:550:24:59

But now we're sort of running to a 12-week season with the asparagus.

0:24:590:25:03

-Right.

-Just with the light conditions and we grow some

0:25:030:25:07

under some small tunnels as well, earlier on in the season, to bring it on early as well.

0:25:070:25:12

Have you ever tried it raw?

0:25:120:25:14

-Raw, it tastes like peas, fresh peas.

-Really?

0:25:140:25:17

Oh, that's fantastic, isn't it?

0:25:170:25:19

So, don't cut that small one, let's cut that larger one just in front.

0:25:190:25:23

Perfect. Yeah, you've got a whole run here, really good.

0:25:230:25:26

Yeah, leave that one. This one's good.

0:25:260:25:29

Come on, Kingy, what's up?

0:25:290:25:30

-Get a move on!

-I've got trouble with my buggy!

0:25:300:25:34

I'm like a one-man combined harvester!

0:25:340:25:36

It's funny, asparagus is often thought to be a luxury item.

0:25:360:25:39

But what is it the locals call it?

0:25:390:25:41

Asparagrass. They call it a grass, locally.

0:25:410:25:44

Ah, this is the food of emperors!

0:25:440:25:46

And Kings. And the poor man.

0:25:460:25:49

Asparagrass. Asparagrass souffle!

0:25:490:25:52

Asparagrass puree!

0:25:520:25:54

Oh, now look. That is the king of asparagus.

0:25:550:25:58

Asparagus with hollandaise!

0:25:580:26:00

There's so much. Just blanch it with butter, salt and pepper.

0:26:000:26:04

OK guys, I think we've nearly finished this row.

0:26:040:26:07

-Brill!

-What d'you think - head back and try some?

-Oh, yes!

0:26:070:26:10

I'll race you back!

0:26:100:26:13

Hurrah! First one past the last standing spear!

0:26:130:26:16

Come on!

0:26:180:26:20

Look at that, it's so fresh!

0:26:240:26:27

Listen, you can hear the freshness.

0:26:270:26:29

That's the stuff that you cut this morning.

0:26:290:26:31

Straight into there. Washed it under a tap.

0:26:310:26:34

It doesn't get any better, does it? You've got purple asparagus here.

0:26:340:26:37

-Never seen that!

-Yes, it's the Stuart variety.

0:26:370:26:40

Originates from New Zealand. And it's grown to eat raw in salads.

0:26:400:26:43

What we found with it is if you cook it in a griddle like this,

0:26:430:26:47

not to overcook it because you lose the colour. It's a bit like purple sprouting, the colour comes out.

0:26:470:26:51

-Look, it's green in the middle. The flavour's fab!

-Sweet.

0:26:510:26:55

-Some of that purple in the pan.

-Oh, let's have a taste, Darren!

0:26:550:26:58

It's gorgeous stuff. Look at that! It's a picture, isn't it?

0:26:580:27:03

-Ee, thanks, Darren!

-Pleasure.

0:27:030:27:04

Asparagus is a true taste of Worcestershire, so we have to use it to compete against Sue.

0:27:040:27:10

It would go beautifully with some pork stuffed with black pudding.

0:27:100:27:13

But to really represent the county on a plate, there's another ingredient we can't ignore.

0:27:130:27:17

A traditional Worcestershire's speciality is perry.

0:27:170:27:19

And it's been made in the area for centuries.

0:27:190:27:22

Richard Reynolds has been making it for the last seven years

0:27:220:27:24

and his hobby has become an award-winning business.

0:27:240:27:28

There's an orchard, there's a fella, that must be Richard! Hiya!

0:27:300:27:35

Woo-oo!

0:27:350:27:36

Just make this very clear -

0:27:380:27:40

-Perry is made from...?

-Perry pears.

0:27:400:27:44

And cider is made from...?

0:27:440:27:46

-Cider apples.

-So perry's pears, cider's apples.

0:27:460:27:49

-That's the one!

-Got it.

0:27:490:27:51

This tree we're looking at is a perry pear tree.

0:27:510:27:54

Very different to culinary fruit or eating fruit.

0:27:540:27:57

-And the pears of this variety would be made traditionally into a perry for drinking.

-Right.

0:27:570:28:04

How old would this pear tree be?

0:28:040:28:06

This is about 80 years old, this tree, I would say.

0:28:060:28:08

You can't tell for sure, but pear trees take a long time to come into fruit.

0:28:080:28:14

-It could be 20 years before they become productive.

-Really?

0:28:140:28:18

Yeah, they live a long time as well.

0:28:180:28:19

It's not like these apple trees, you know, some of them are 50 years, they're finished.

0:28:190:28:23

What does the blossom tell you?

0:28:230:28:25

Well, what we're looking at this year is to see what sort of crop we're going to get in the autumn.

0:28:250:28:29

-Really?

-Can you tell now?

0:28:290:28:31

Yeah, you can tell now. Last year, we got very little fruit off these trees.

0:28:310:28:36

And this year we've got a magnificent spray of blossom, as you can see.

0:28:360:28:39

So that's an indication of a good crop to come?

0:28:390:28:42

It will be, yeah. Well, let's hope so. If it all gets pollinated.

0:28:420:28:45

Richard, what can learn from the blossom?

0:28:450:28:47

You're looking at some strong flowers

0:28:470:28:49

and making sure, really, that they're setting and not dropping off.

0:28:490:28:53

What sort of yield would you get from a tree like this?

0:28:530:28:57

What we're looking at would be a quarter to half a ton of pears off this tree.

0:28:570:29:02

It could be about 120 litres, something like that.

0:29:020:29:04

-Really?

-Yeah. Yeah.

0:29:040:29:06

-Wow!

-240-odd bottles, pints, something like that.

0:29:060:29:09

-And is this your orchard, Richard?

-No, this is not my orchard.

0:29:090:29:13

I'm lucky enough to be able to come and pick here.

0:29:130:29:15

The guys at Home Farm allow me to come in

0:29:150:29:18

and take whatever fruit I want in exchange for just a few bottles.

0:29:180:29:22

-That's really good.

-It is, yeah.

0:29:220:29:24

So I've got a few different perries for you to taste.

0:29:240:29:26

-Some from this tree, actually.

-Have you?

-Yeah!

0:29:260:29:28

-That would be fab, wouldn't it?

-Yeah.

0:29:280:29:30

Let's go!

0:29:300:29:32

'Richard makes all his Perry in his garage at home in the heart of the city of Worcester.'

0:29:320:29:37

-Open sesame!

-Hello!

-Hello, mate!

0:29:410:29:44

Dude, this is my sort of shed.

0:29:440:29:46

-Right, you want a try?

-Oh, yeah.

0:29:460:29:48

-Little nips, though.

-We've got the bikes.

-Yeah, we've gotta be steady.

0:29:480:29:51

No problem. The first one we'll taste, then, is the Tainton Squash.

0:29:510:29:54

-Tainton Squash!

-That was the tree we were looking at in the orchard.

0:29:540:29:57

Oh, brilliant! Oh, that'd be nice.

0:29:570:29:59

Tainton Squash!

0:29:590:30:01

-That's fine, thanks.

-So what should we be looking for on the nose of this, then, Richard?

0:30:010:30:06

Taynton Squash should have a sort of champagne finish to it.

0:30:060:30:10

But see what you think.

0:30:100:30:11

-Oh, it's lovely.

-It's certainly quite refreshing, isn't it?

0:30:130:30:16

Yeah. It's got that freshness, the astringency of a good champagne.

0:30:160:30:21

This is the Blakeney,

0:30:210:30:23

also known as the circus pear.

0:30:230:30:25

-Really?

-Right.

-Also known as the painted lady.

0:30:250:30:28

-Ooh, that's sweeter than the other one.

-I like that, man.

-I love that.

0:30:280:30:31

-That's totally different, isn't it?

-God, that's mad. It's floral.

0:30:310:30:33

It is floral. It does have a few citrussy notes, as well.

0:30:330:30:36

How long does it take to brew, from tree to barrel?

0:30:360:30:40

-The first pears that we press would be mid-September.

-Yeah.

0:30:400:30:43

And then they're sort of racked at about January, February time.

0:30:430:30:47

Then now, in the spring, is when they're first ready.

0:30:470:30:50

But we've made over 2,500 litres of perry this year.

0:30:500:30:54

-Really?

-Yeah!

-What do you reckon would be a good one for cooking with?

0:30:540:30:58

-Well, I think Blakeney.

-Right.

0:30:580:31:00

That's an excellent perry to choose.

0:31:000:31:02

It's balanced, it's got lots of sugar and

0:31:020:31:05

-a little bit of acidity.

-Yes.

-I think that's the one to go for.

0:31:050:31:08

Well, it'd be nice to take a couple of samples, as well.

0:31:080:31:11

-Y'know, when we're off the bikes, we can enjoy them a bit.

-I'm with you.

0:31:110:31:14

As Keith Floyd would say, to cook with it, first we need to understand it,

0:31:140:31:20

and I can feel some understanding coming on.

0:31:200:31:22

I think you're gonna be our new best mate!

0:31:220:31:24

Mmm!

0:31:260:31:27

Our dish, it's a fillet of Worcestershire pork stuffed with local black pudding...

0:31:390:31:44

..served with Worcestershire pear and perry sauce...

0:31:440:31:49

..with little roundels of fondant sweet potatoes...

0:31:490:31:52

..served with asparagus puree and some buttered asparagus tips.

0:31:520:31:57

But will the local diners think our dishes good enough to beat Sue's in a blind tasting?

0:31:570:32:02

First off,

0:32:020:32:04

the pork fillet.

0:32:040:32:06

We're gonna trim the ends. This sinew here, that all needs to come off.

0:32:060:32:10

I'm gonna make a smoky bacon blanket, which is what we're gonna wrap the loin in.

0:32:100:32:14

Take the rind off.

0:32:140:32:17

What I'm doing is I'm stretching the bacon out over the knife.

0:32:170:32:20

It makes it thinner, it'll make it crispier.

0:32:200:32:22

Plus, I get more coverage from me rasher.

0:32:220:32:24

Right, look at that! Beautiful.

0:32:240:32:28

I'm gonna cut that, taking care not to cut all the way through.

0:32:280:32:31

I'll get on with the preparation of the pears, Dave.

0:32:310:32:33

Now, one ingredient we can't ignore in Worcestershire is Worcestershire sauce.

0:32:330:32:37

Dribble that down the crevasse.

0:32:370:32:38

Look at that! A good Worcestershire black pudding.

0:32:380:32:42

Born to be mild!

0:32:420:32:44

It's funny, black pudding's different the world over, isn't it?

0:32:440:32:47

This is quite a dry one.

0:32:470:32:50

Now just crumble the black pudding

0:32:500:32:53

into the... like so.

0:32:530:32:56

I'm gonna peel a pear and cut it into eight, de-core it. Very simple.

0:32:560:33:00

And we turn that sort of scar side down onto the bacon, just near the edge there. Get some sage leaves.

0:33:000:33:07

And I want little bits of sage in each slice.

0:33:070:33:10

Some sea-salt flakes and a few lovely twists of white pepper.

0:33:100:33:15

Now we just roll that up.

0:33:150:33:17

Ohhh...

0:33:190:33:21

Get the ends tucked under.

0:33:210:33:23

Look at it!

0:33:230:33:24

Worcestershire roly-polies!

0:33:240:33:26

In this pan, I'm just gonna put a touch of vegetable oil in.

0:33:260:33:29

Doesn't need to be too much. Thirty grams of butter is about that much.

0:33:290:33:35

We're gonna melt that. The reason we've put oil in with the butter is to stop the butter burning,

0:33:350:33:40

because we're gonna caramelise the pears, you see.

0:33:400:33:43

This is dark brown muscovado sugar.

0:33:430:33:45

We just sprinkle it over the pears and let that go for the minute.

0:33:450:33:49

Then we'll start the sauce, which is in another pan.

0:33:490:33:51

I'm gonna get on with the fondant sweet potatoes.

0:33:510:33:55

There we go. There we are.

0:33:560:33:58

That'll make a fondant. We'll just

0:33:580:34:01

take off that little bit there, and it makes it look like a lozenge.

0:34:010:34:05

Right, mate, I'm gonna take these pears out.

0:34:050:34:07

What about that?

0:34:070:34:10

Look at that!

0:34:100:34:12

You can imagine it now, the pork with the black pudding,

0:34:120:34:15

the fondants, the pears down either side like that.

0:34:150:34:18

-And we haven't even got on to the asparagus.

-You'll have me nervous.

-Hey, look at those.

0:34:180:34:23

For the fondant, I need quite a lot of butter.

0:34:230:34:26

And into that I'm gonna sweat down a crushed clove of garlic and a sprig of thyme. To that,

0:34:260:34:32

the fondant sweet potatoes, a bit of salt, and when it goes golden, flip it over.

0:34:330:34:38

What I'm gonna do is get on with the sauce.

0:34:380:34:41

Now, it's a perry sauce to go with said pears, the pears that we just prepped, you see.

0:34:410:34:45

And now... OK? Have you got it so far?

0:34:450:34:48

Now, what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put some onions in...

0:34:480:34:53

Right, I'm gonna put some onions in the frying pan and put a little bit of oil,

0:34:530:34:58

and then we're gonna put some more butter. One onion, finely chopped.

0:34:580:35:02

I could be browning off the pork now, couldn't I?

0:35:020:35:05

Whilst me oil's heating up, I'm just gonna turn the fondants.

0:35:050:35:09

We'll finish cooking those off with chicken stock in there

0:35:090:35:13

and let those just moulder away till they're cooked through.

0:35:130:35:16

Now time to get on to Mr Pig.

0:35:160:35:18

-And we need to sear it joint side down, or else...

-Why?

0:35:180:35:22

Well, it'll unravel like a ball of string, won't it?

0:35:220:35:25

So once it's sealed, we'll be all right, y'know?

0:35:250:35:28

-We'll just leave that for a moment.

-Do you want the grill on?

0:35:280:35:31

-Oh, yes, please.

-Do you want me to save your bacon?

-Yeah.

-THEY GROAN

0:35:310:35:35

Hey, man, hey.

0:35:350:35:37

We just pop this under the grill, just to finish the top off.

0:35:370:35:40

Yeah. To that we add some button mushrooms, about 150g, and we just

0:35:400:35:46

cook them off for a minute, now, just to soften them, yeah?

0:35:460:35:49

And button mushrooms cook really quickly, so... Now, look at this.

0:35:490:35:52

Blakeney Red from our mate Richie.

0:35:520:35:56

For the sauce, we want about half a bottle of this.

0:35:560:35:58

I'm just gonna put it in the pan.

0:35:580:36:00

To that, we're gonna add this bouquet garni.

0:36:000:36:03

Now, that consists of some celery, a bay leaf, some thyme, some parsley.

0:36:030:36:08

Then a dessertspoon of Dijon mustard. Let that reduce.

0:36:080:36:13

That's all crisped up. One of them's gone a bit frizzly.

0:36:130:36:16

But, y'know, the bacon's there just to protect the pork.

0:36:160:36:18

Turn that over, try and make it look a bit better.

0:36:180:36:21

Pop that in the oven now. Job's a good 'un.

0:36:210:36:23

Fifteen minutes, out it'll pop.

0:36:230:36:26

Beautiful. Evesham asparagus.

0:36:260:36:29

We have green, we have purple.

0:36:290:36:31

Now, this is brilliant. It's new season. We need to prep it properly.

0:36:310:36:34

So you feel where it's gonna give naturally.

0:36:340:36:37

That's the bit you use. That bit we don't.

0:36:370:36:41

I'm gonna peel this,

0:36:410:36:43

and we want these perfectly presented tips.

0:36:430:36:46

Like that.

0:36:460:36:48

Tip.

0:36:480:36:50

And these are gonna be used for the puree.

0:36:500:36:53

-Shall I give you a hand with this?

-Yeah.

0:36:530:36:55

Eventually, what we're gonna do with these - we need them slightly soft, but we're gonna puree them.

0:37:010:37:07

All I'm gonna do with the tips are blanch them for about two minutes.

0:37:070:37:12

Let's just taste.

0:37:120:37:15

I think it's pretty much there.

0:37:150:37:17

Oh, yeah! Right, the asparagus has had precisely two minutes,

0:37:170:37:21

so they're still gonna be slightly al dente. But look at that colour.

0:37:210:37:24

That goes into cold water.

0:37:240:37:27

That'll really keep it fresh.

0:37:270:37:29

Time for the meat.

0:37:290:37:31

Nice one, mate, yes.

0:37:310:37:33

Now, let's just check it.

0:37:330:37:36

Ah, that's spot-on.

0:37:360:37:37

Yeah. Perfect. I'll just put this to rest, to chill out.

0:37:370:37:41

To have its little holiday.

0:37:410:37:43

Right...

0:37:430:37:45

I'm just gonna melt some butter for refreshing the asparagus.

0:37:450:37:49

I'm gonna put them into the Robocook here.

0:37:490:37:52

While Kingy's making the puree,

0:37:520:37:54

I'm just gonna finish the sauce off with some cream, salt and pepper and chopped parsley.

0:37:540:38:00

I'm gonna put the zest of half a lemon...

0:38:000:38:03

Give it a whizz.

0:38:040:38:06

And these pears, they're just like chutney, almost, now. Fabulous.

0:38:060:38:11

-I'll put them just to keep warm.

-All right, mate.

0:38:110:38:13

I'm not that far away. I'm putting the cream in now.

0:38:130:38:16

Brill.

0:38:160:38:17

Has this Robocook got a turbo button?

0:38:220:38:24

Well, no. It's going as fast as you guys.

0:38:240:38:27

It's slo-o-o-ow.

0:38:270:38:28

You're starting to irritate me!

0:38:280:38:31

I'm just gonna add some seasoning to it.

0:38:320:38:36

I'm just gonna strain the fat off, because underneath there

0:38:360:38:39

is some wonderful meat juices, and it's got to go in the sauce, hasn't it, really?

0:38:390:38:44

-Kingy?

-What, mate?

-I think the elements are there. We're ready to plate up.

0:38:450:38:50

-All ready to plate up.

-Right.

0:38:500:38:51

This asparagus I'll just put in some hot butter.

0:38:510:38:54

Now, first off, Mr Pork.

0:38:540:38:57

Carefully, Dave. Don't get too excited.

0:38:570:39:00

Uno.

0:39:000:39:01

Porco de gracia.

0:39:030:39:04

Fondant.

0:39:060:39:07

Asparagus fantasy.

0:39:120:39:15

-Mushrooms here?

-Yeah.

0:39:150:39:16

Right, there we are.

0:39:160:39:18

There we have it,

0:39:190:39:20

our tribute to Worcestershire on a plate,

0:39:200:39:23

a stuffed fillet of Worcestershire pork with local black pudding...

0:39:230:39:27

-..and perry-caramelised pears...

-..and fondant sweet potato...

0:39:270:39:31

..and a puree of asparagus.

0:39:310:39:34

Mm. That is beautiful.

0:39:380:39:40

Yeah, really good.

0:39:400:39:42

Mm.

0:39:420:39:44

I like that a lot. Let me try the sweet potato.

0:39:440:39:46

-It's inspirational.

-It's a cosmopolitan society.

0:39:460:39:48

-Worth it.

-Yeah, it's great fondant.

-That is stunning. Absolutely stunning.

0:39:480:39:52

Oh, thank you very much!

0:39:520:39:54

We haven't had a "stunning" before!

0:39:540:39:57

-I can feel meself flushing up!

-Ooh!

0:39:570:39:59

Oh, thank you very much.

0:39:590:40:01

I like the black pudding, I like the bacon, the pears...

0:40:010:40:04

Yeah, it's beautiful. Especially that asparagus.

0:40:040:40:07

-What is that like!

-Yeah, that's really good.

0:40:070:40:10

It's the best in the world.

0:40:100:40:12

-Thanks, Sue.

-OK.

0:40:120:40:14

It's the moment of truth. The diners here will taste both dishes but without any idea who cooked which.

0:40:140:40:18

First up is Sue's beautiful honey-glazed pigeon with artichoke puree and purple sprouting.

0:40:180:40:23

Obviously, a lot of thought had gone into how the plate was put together, and I thought it looked great.

0:40:230:40:28

Purple sprouting broccoli being served in the espresso cup was a nice touch.

0:40:280:40:33

The air-dried ham changed the flavour of the purple sprouting completely.

0:40:330:40:38

-I enjoyed that.

-I particularly liked the fan shaped like a flower, and Worcester is a very floral county.

0:40:380:40:45

Pureed artichoke, as well, was very nice. That's something I haven't had before.

0:40:450:40:48

Unfortunately, I actually found that pigeon really quite dry.

0:40:480:40:52

It had quite a livery sort of taste, for me, which I enjoyed.

0:40:520:40:56

Medium rare, which is unusual.

0:40:560:40:57

Some people overdo pigeon, but that was good.

0:40:570:41:00

Quite a lot of interesting different flavours.

0:41:000:41:03

It kind of felt like a little bit of a tour on a plate, if you like.

0:41:030:41:07

Most people seemed to like that.

0:41:070:41:09

Next to be served is our dish.

0:41:090:41:10

Ooh, fingers crossed...

0:41:100:41:12

That is gorgeous.

0:41:150:41:16

Presentation was great, possibly a little bit overcomplicated.

0:41:160:41:21

I was a little bit surprised about pureeing the asparagus.

0:41:210:41:24

We've got the best asparagus in the world,

0:41:240:41:26

so it would have been better to have it as a side dish just as it is.

0:41:260:41:28

The asparagus puree just...

0:41:280:41:31

had virtually no flavour whatsoever and a total lack of seasoning, as well.

0:41:310:41:36

I thought it was just slightly untidy.

0:41:360:41:39

The sweet potato, I thought, complemented the pork perfectly.

0:41:390:41:42

The pork was lovely mixed with the black pudding.

0:41:420:41:45

And it was so good, it could have been my own.

0:41:450:41:47

Very representative of Worcester because of it having Worcestershire sauce on the pork.

0:41:470:41:53

The pears surprised me in the mushroom sauce, but the combination was very good.

0:41:530:41:58

APPLAUSE Hello!

0:41:580:42:00

Well, thank you very much for coming.

0:42:040:42:07

Worcestershire's been great.

0:42:070:42:09

We're having a wonderful time going round the country and eating it and stripping it bare, really.

0:42:090:42:13

Worcester's been no exception.

0:42:130:42:15

-We've met some great people with some great food, and thank you again for coming.

-Now to the nitty-gritty.

0:42:150:42:22

Could I have a show of hands, please, for the pigeon?

0:42:220:42:26

So that's one, two, three.

0:42:260:42:30

Could I have a show of hands, please, for the asparagus and pork dish?

0:42:300:42:34

Five, six. OK, thank you very much.

0:42:340:42:37

The asparagus and pork dish was Dave and I, and the pigeon was our Sue's from Belle House.

0:42:370:42:44

I just feel remotely embarrassed.

0:42:440:42:46

I am blushing! Y'know, it's either that or blood pressure.

0:42:490:42:53

-I just wanted to say both dishes were absolutely fantastic.

-Thank you.

0:42:530:42:58

-The presentation on dish one, if you could put that with the flavours of dish two, would be just perfect.

-OK.

0:42:580:43:05

-Looks like you're working with us, then.

-Yeah!

0:43:050:43:08

All that remains for us to do is to thank Sue very much

0:43:080:43:10

for letting us into her kitchen. We've had a wonderful afternoon.

0:43:100:43:13

We've learnt a lot, as well, and the Belle House is a beautiful restaurant. You're very lucky.

0:43:130:43:18

-Thank you!

-Thank you. Thanks very much.

0:43:180:43:20

Sue's pigeon was fantastic and so beautifully presented, but asparagus and perry

0:43:200:43:25

are such traditional flavours of the county, we couldn't fail.

0:43:250:43:28

Worcestershire is packed with foodie treasures.

0:43:280:43:30

There's so much to choose from.

0:43:300:43:32

This county has filled us up!

0:43:320:43:34

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:390:43:42

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:420:43:45

Si and Dave explore Worcestershire, where they cook a traditional county favourite in Malvern Priory Park. They dig their own asparagus and find a man making award-winning perry in his own garage. Finally, they face the challenge of a cook-off against top chef Sue Ellis. Restaurant diners must decide who has created the best taste of Worcestershire.


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