Derbyshire The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Derbyshire

Si and Dave explore Derbyshire, where they cook a county favourite at the Buxton Pavilion Gardens. They face a cook-off against Michelin-starred chef Rupert Rowley.


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Transcript


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-BOTH: The Hairy Bikers!

-On the road to find regional recipes to rev up your appetite.

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We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

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Come on!

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Today we're in search of the real taste of Derbyshire.

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Ah, yes... Ah, lovely!

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This is Derbyshire. And we're right here up in the High Peaks.

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The High Peak district was the first National Park in Britain.

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-Really?

-Yeah, yeah.

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You know, to me, Derbyshire - there's three main towns.

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There's Derby, the city. That goes back to prehistoric times.

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Don't forget Buxton, with the spring water.

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And Chesterfield, that town with the church with the twisted spire.

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Look. The sun's shining. There's dander in wor gander. Let's gan find out.

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-I'll race ya!

-Right, done.

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'On our quest to find the true flavours of Derbyshire, we set up kitchen in Buxton,

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'to cook the county's favourite pud.

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'We hit the road to dig up some very fresh vegetables.'

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You're crying out to be in a leek and potato soup.

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'And in the grounds of Calke Abbey we find some local deer which make for some extra special venison.

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'And, representing Derbyshire in a cook-off later is Rupert Rowley.

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'Will we be able to beat him in a blind tasting with local diners?

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'First stop in Derbyshire is Chesterfield. The market's on

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'so let's pick the brains of these local foodies. What is this county on a plate?'

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What are the traditional foods of Derbyshire?

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Well, two things I always think about - one are the cheeses,

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and one is locally produced meat.

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Bakewell tarts and puddings are absolutely gorgeous.

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Bakewell tarts, lovely.

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I'd certainly say lamb from say, Chatsworth and the surrounding areas.

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The butchers in the market hall are fantastic.

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Tomato sausage is produced locally as well. That's very tasty.

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There's a murmur on the street, which is why we're here, that you guys

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are farm to shop. Is that right?

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That's right. We try and use everything off us own farm if we can. If not, we just use local farms.

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-I've never seen a hodge bag before.

-Never?

-No.

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-It is basically tripe out of a pig, that's all.

-It's pig's tripe? Got it.

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We've got some great sausages.

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There's some nice rare breeds - there's some saddleback sausages, and you know, the Brampton banger.

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Are there any that are specific to Derbyshire?

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We've actually got some tomato sausages.

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It's a traditional Chesterfield recipe, if you want to try some of them. Made on the premises.

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Seeing as we're here!

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We use pork, pinhead rusk which is just like a wheat-based binder,

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a little bit of a salt-based seasoning and then tomato puree.

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-I made them me sen.

-Did you? Good lad!

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-What's good to eat in Derbyshire?

-Bakewell tarts, obviously. Bakewell pudding.

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-Oatcakes.

-Oatcakes?

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-Derbyshire oatcakes?

-Got to have them.

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-What do you have those with?

-Fried in a pan for breakfast with bacon on top.

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-They're not hard, are they?

-No.

-Like a biscuit. No?

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-You can fry them and put anything on them.

-Similar to a pancake.

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Oh!

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-Look at this wonderful array of cheeses. There's bound to be some Derbyshire cheese.

-Got to be.

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Tell us about Derbyshire cheese.

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We've actually only got one factory in Derbyshire that actually makes cheese.

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I'm sorry to say that is actually closed now.

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-We've just got the last few batches of it.

-Oh, what a shame.

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So you're quite lucky we've got it.

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So after this has gone, there'll be no more cheese made in Derbyshire?

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Not in Derbyshire. The Hartington factory is being closed down.

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-It's like eating the dodo.

-Isn't it?

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Let's give you a taste anyway.

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-There's no bitterness to it at all. Like some Stilton.

-That's it, yeah.

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Nice salt to it. Lovely cream.

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-That's really special.

-Wonderful.

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A little bit of a bite, with the blue in there. Really nice on the palate.

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What about the sage Derby that you buy in supermarkets?

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I get it from Carron Lodge in Lancashire.

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It's done to the same recipe, the Derby recipe.

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Why do they put that sage in it?

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It's cos it had healing properties.

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So over the time, people were eating it hoping they would get better.

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Oh, that's nice. I like that, bit of anthropology.

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-Would you like a taste?

-We'd love a taste.

-Be rude not to.

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I thought you were going to say that.

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-I've never tasted proper sage Derby.

-No, I haven't.

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-Ooh, yeah.

-It's a lovely texture, it's almost like a Gruyere.

-It is.

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-Oh, yeah.

-Oh, that's lovely.

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-You can taste the sage in it.

-Yeah.

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And the creaminess... It's mild. The Derby's a mild white Cheddar.

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-Well, RIP the Derbyshire Stilton.

-Mmm.

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It were lovely.

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-What do you like to eat in Derbyshire? What's your favourite?

-Bakewell.

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-Bakewell pudding.

-Bakewell pudding.

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Bakewell pudding.

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-Bakewell pudding?

-What's the...?

-Bakewell tart.

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Pudding. You can't call it a tart.

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-What's the difference between a tart and a pudding?

-Ah!

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-Pudding I would say is pastry on top.

-It is confusing!

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Are they the same? Is one a tart, is one a pudding?

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The only difference between a tart and a pudding is the pastry.

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The actual filling is exactly the same.

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-So the pudding's a puff, and the tart's a shortcrust?

-Yeah.

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Mmm... It's a lovely almondy flavour.

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To be a traditional Bakewell, it's got to contain ground almond.

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-That's lovely.

-It is.

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-Be interesting to taste the pudding.

-The pastry gives it an entirely different taste.

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So there's a thin layer of jam down there,

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it's like the almondine mixture on top in a puff pastry.

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I like both of them. But I think they're fit for a different purpose.

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-Yeah. Yeah.

-I'd have my tart with a cup of tea - and have my pudding with some custard.

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-Cream.

-Cream would be lovely, wouldn't it?

-Nice bit of cream.

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This is a Derbyshire oatcake. These are made on a hotplate, out of oats, oatmeal.

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That would be great with some cheese, and just roll it in bacon.

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-May I?

-Fried in bacon fat.

-Yeah.

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-With eggs and bacon.

-Yes. Fabulous.

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It's lovely cos it's not too sweet.

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-It's not sweet at all, there's no sugar in it.

-Excellent.

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'We've got the lowdown about Bakewell tarts and puddings,

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'so it's time to get cooking!

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'Today we're in the spa town of Buxton,

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'to make traditional Bakewell pudding served with vanilla clotted cream.'

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We're in the Pavilion Gardens, Buxton. And mighty fine it is too.

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Now, the Bakewell pudding - it's so far away from the kind of supermarket monstrosity

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that's like...it's like fibreboard with icing and a cherry on the top.

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That's not the real deal. What are you doing with that? We're working!

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Well, somebody gave us it!

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All right. All right. So one of the first things that strikes you about a pudding

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as opposed to a tart is it's got a puff pastry bottom.

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We start off with puff pastry. Nothing wrong with bought puff.

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So I'm going to line the tin.

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It's very simple. Just roll it out.

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A bit of butter.

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I know it's nonstick,

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but everything we touch does have a propensity to get stuck.

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-Should I be doing something(?)

-Just a minute.

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Line the tin with your puff pastry, and just press it down gently.

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Trim the puff pastry, in a rustic fashion,

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and there you go. One lined tin.

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-We've got another three that we made earlier.

-See?

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-See?!

-LAUGHTER

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Now, stage two after we have these tins lined

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is the usual one when baking a pudding -

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the creaming of the sugar and the butter.

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This...is butter!

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This...is sugar.

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You put that...in there.

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Cream it together till it's white and fluffy. It's easier with softened butter.

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Look, man, the butter's rock hard! That's not...

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It's a wrestling match, not creaming!

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How does Bob Marley like his Bakewell pudding?

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-CROWD: Wi' jam in(!)

-Yeah.

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With jam in.

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-Jam in.

-LAUGHTER

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Right, if anybody laughs at another one of those really bad jokes...!

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The people of Derbyshire are talking my language.

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This is good raspberry jam.

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So in each of these pastry cases, huge dollops of Derbyshire jammy love.

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Story of my life, this - a constant struggle.

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To flavour up the base, we're going to put some almond extract in it.

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Almonds, Bakewell - it's all there.

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Don't use almond essence, cos almond essence is a chemical.

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Extract is made from almonds.

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This might loosen it up, Kingy.

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We live in hope, dude.

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Oh, that's loosened it up GREAT, aye(!) Smashin'.

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If you were to put that bowl in that oven for 20 seconds, it would be easy as anything to cream.

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We reckon, because we've got, like, raspberry jam,

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we'll use fresh raspberries.

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Take some off, cos we want garnish for the tops.

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So we squash the raspberries now... So we'll give it a thump.

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Look at that.

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GIGGLING

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# On you go... #

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Oh, look at that.

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The body of the pudding... It's a rich beast.

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-It's a mixture of ground almonds...

-Almonds.

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..and 20 eggs.

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Not 10, not 12, but 20 eggs.

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Some almonds...

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And by alternating the eggs and almonds, hopefully it won't split.

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-Now, look at that.

-That's lovely.

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Just pour it over that. But don't pat the almonds down too much,

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or else it'll force the raspberries to the top.

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And they won't take long, probably about 25 minutes.

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What do you reckon?

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Have a look, Mum.

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Nice, eh? Do you think that's done?

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-A bit dodgy in the middle.

-A bit dodgy?

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-I used to work on school dinners for 18 years.

-Right.

-We made loads of these.

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-So you reckon...?

-Just about five more minutes, I'd say. Yeah.

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-I'll take your advice.

-Right. LAUGHTER

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Just about five more minutes, and it'll be perfect!

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Meanwhile...anybody got any suggestions what we could serve with our Bakewell pudding?

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Clotted cream!

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-Clotted cream.

-Superb idea.

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I think we can improve on that. Let's make fresh VANILLA clotted cream.

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Why don't we(?)

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-This is a vanilla pod...

-No, it's not.

-It is.

-It's a cigar.

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What you do is, you get a knife,

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and just pare it down there taking care not to have your fingers off.

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And just open it, and there's, like,

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little black seeds inside.

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So you just take the knife,

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and run it down there and scrape out the black seeds.

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Mix them with the cream. And those little black spots,

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they're a sign of quality.

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You get ice cream with black bits in - don't send it back, it's good.

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-Unless it's a fly.

-LAUGHTER

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Gadzooks, that's half an hour. Let's check the oven.

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They're ready!

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One...

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Ah...!

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Oh!

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I've just taken this out and somebody's just said,

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"'Ere - I thought they were doing puddings, not quiche."

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LAUGHTER

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Well, that's all right, mate. Don't worry!

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Now, it's a simple garnish, because it's a rustic dish.

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Just a few raspberries.

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And then we'll sprinkle with icing sugar.

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Look at that.

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Reminds you of Christmas.

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An advantage of using the icing sugar is

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if one's a bit burnt, you never notice, do you?

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LAUGHTER

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There we have it - our tribute to Derbyshire.

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A traditional Bakewell pudding,

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made de luxe with the addition of fresh raspberries.

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Good for you to boot! I canna believe it.

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CHEERING

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'Time to get the verdict from the people of Buxton.

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'Will our Bakewell pudding be a hit or a miss? Only one way to find out.'

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So what do you think?

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I like the sharpness of the raspberries, in contrast with the almonds and the cream.

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A lovely cheesecake(!)

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LAUGHTER

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Lovely. Really gorgeous, yeah.

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It's amazing. I love it.

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-I wish I could make it.

-You can.

-It's dead easy.

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So, kids, what do you think on the whole?

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It's delicious.

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The vanilla cream's the best cream I've ever tasted.

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It's sweet, but not sickly-sweet.

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The raspberries give it a proper zing, and I've had Bakewell pudding

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from Bakewell before and I've always found it a bit greasy

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but this is so light.

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I've ate mine.

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LAUGHTER

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It was that nice!

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No offence to Mum and Dad, this is probably the best thing I've ever tasted.

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Thank you very much!

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-I would probably pay for some more.

-Pay for it?

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I've got £2.

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And miraculously...

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-Seconds!

-Oh, thank you.

-Take that, there you are.

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-Get a clean... Good lad.

-Thank you.

-You're very welcome.

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'Our pudding certainly satisfied the sweet tooths of Buxton,

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'but next, an even bigger challenge.

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'As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant,

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'to see who best defines the taste of the region.

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'It'll be up to local diners in a blind tasting to decide whose dish

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'best represents the true flavours of Derbyshire.

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'Our opponent today is Rupert Rowley,

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'head chef of Fischer's Baslow Hall.

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'He trained with Gordon Ramsay and Raymond Blanc,

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'and has come home to use the best local produce to create food perfection.'

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Baslow Hall is a traditional country house hotel. Very formal and elegant,

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but we try to sort of go across that,

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and we're much more into much more modern food,

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using traditional techniques with a modern interpretation.

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One of the key things about Derbyshire is, you're in the seasons.

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You know when lamb should be on the menu, or when pheasant's around.

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You're almost in a big farm in Derbyshire, so you know exactly what's growing at any one time.

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The presentation of a dish is very important, but that's secondary.

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Get the flavours right, and then you come to your presentation,

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so that when the plate comes in front of the customer they go, "Wow."

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But then you need that second hit that they go, "This is unbelievable."

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We've got a Michelin star, which has been here about ten years,

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we've got four AA rosettes...

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The awards and accolades are good for PR, and we're in all the guidebooks,

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but the key is the customers coming through the door.

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Looking after them, making sure they're happy, and then the rest will follow on from that.

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To take on the bikers, my taste of Derbyshire is slow-poached loin and braised canon of Derbyshire lamb,

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with Derbyshire oatcake crust and caramelised onion mousse.

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Hiya.

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Welcome to Baslow Hall.

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-Smashing. Thank you.

-Safe journey?

-Not so bad.

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-It was good. It was good.

-Yeah?

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-You got the kettle on?

-Yeah. Come on. Let's go and have a brew.

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Rupert, could you headline your dish?

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Today we're going to do a slow-poached and a braised shoulder of Derbyshire lamb,

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with an oatcake crust and a caramelised onion mousse.

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-Let's crack on!

-Right.

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So we've got a whole shoulder here with the bone in just to show.

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We've got it all tied and ready there.

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Season that all over. Not too much salt.

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In a pan. We want that nice and golden brown all over,

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and then we'll prepare some simple braising vegetables -

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onions, carrots, celery, some garlic.

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So if we cut them too small, the vegetables cook too quickly,

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and you get a really cloudy sauce.

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-So you want a clear sauce?

-Yeah.

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We want them really well roasted.

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Bit of garlic in as well,

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and we'll start to get our herb crust.

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I've got some different herbs, leaves, shoots, et cetera.

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This one is a wild garlic leaf.

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We've got some chives here, some parsley, a bit of rosemary,

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some bay leaf. Jimmy, can you just pass me a bit of thyme, please?

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And, again, our vegetables are getting nicely coloured.

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Into that, we're going to add

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just a little bit of tomato puree into that as well,

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and some of the thyme and some rosemary.

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We'll leave that to carry on roasting.

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We've got that lamb nicely sealed off all over.

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-Fabulous.

-So that goes in as well now.

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So we just use white wine...

0:17:110:17:13

into there, and wash all of that off from both pans. About half a bottle.

0:17:130:17:18

Once that's all reduced down a bit, that goes on the top of there.

0:17:180:17:22

Jimmy, chuck me that bucket of beef stock.

0:17:220:17:24

Some lamb bones that I've already roasted off,

0:17:240:17:27

-so they go in.

-That's beef stock.

0:17:270:17:29

That goes in over the top.

0:17:290:17:32

I've just got bubbling away on the back here some chicken stock,

0:17:320:17:35

and we'll just put in a couple of ladles of that,

0:17:350:17:38

and that'll be about three, four hours there.

0:17:380:17:41

Can you just pass me that metal tub...? That's it.

0:17:410:17:43

This is a really good machine.

0:17:430:17:45

-So what have you got there?

-We've got Derbyshire oatcakes. Fantastic.

0:17:450:17:49

They're weird. They're like a crumpet.

0:17:490:17:52

They're great for the crust -

0:17:520:17:53

Normally we'd use bread, but these are a bit doughy, and that's great for the crust.

0:17:530:17:58

So we just chop them up roughly.

0:17:580:17:59

So everything's in there now. All our thyme, garlic...

0:17:590:18:03

This machine is like a fancy food processor.

0:18:030:18:06

-Dude, it's a space shuttle(!)

-So that sits in there,

0:18:060:18:09

and then what we've got here is a blade that's going to spin round,

0:18:090:18:12

chop through everything, and mix the whole lot together.

0:18:120:18:15

So we'll just set that going.

0:18:150:18:17

We're going to start our onion mousse. We don't need to cut these up really fine.

0:18:170:18:22

So in our pan, we want some butter.

0:18:220:18:24

Now, in here...that's the shoulder there, all cooked.

0:18:250:18:28

So we just lift that out...

0:18:280:18:31

..and into there.

0:18:310:18:33

We're going to pass the stock off now, pass it through a chinois,

0:18:330:18:36

so we've got it nice and fine, to take out all the impurities.

0:18:360:18:40

-Just sieve it, really.

-Sieve it, yeah.

0:18:400:18:42

So what we're going to do...

0:18:420:18:44

is just cover that over with some clingfilm, like that,

0:18:440:18:47

and then put a weight onto that,

0:18:470:18:49

and press it.

0:18:490:18:51

-Wow.

-Jimmy, can I pass that to you?

0:18:510:18:53

-And is the pressed shoulder served cold?

-No, no, no.

0:18:530:18:56

We're going to reheat it then.

0:18:560:18:57

-Have a look at this now...

-Wow!

0:18:570:18:59

That's our crust there. Smell that.

0:18:590:19:02

-God, the flavours!

-Oh, that is amazing.

0:19:020:19:04

That is amazing.

0:19:040:19:06

We've got some cheese here.

0:19:060:19:08

We're just going to add a small amount of that to our herb crust.

0:19:080:19:12

Back in, and we'll give that one more blast.

0:19:120:19:15

-I want one of these, they're great.

-Through the magic machine.

0:19:150:19:19

This cheese is another one of our great Derbyshire products.

0:19:190:19:22

-This is called Little Derby. Fantastic cheese.

-Thank you.

0:19:220:19:26

-This is a really good old cheese.

-Good, isn't it?

0:19:260:19:29

-So you can see that now.

-Cor... Look at the colours in that!

0:19:290:19:32

Back to our other cut of lamb. We're going to cook it sous-vide.

0:19:320:19:35

So we're going to vac-pack it, and slowly cook it.

0:19:350:19:38

-Sous-vide is a water bath, isn't it?

-That's it.

0:19:380:19:41

"Sous vide" is the French term for cooking under pressure.

0:19:410:19:44

-So we're going to put this into the bag...

-Yeah.

0:19:440:19:48

We're going to add a little bit of rosemary into each bag,

0:19:480:19:51

a bit of thyme, a little bit of garlic.

0:19:510:19:53

Then we've just got a little bit of olive oil... Goes into that.

0:19:530:19:56

So we're going to vac-pack these on the machine.

0:19:560:19:59

Close that up.

0:20:000:20:01

-We've got this at 57 degrees exactly.

-Not 58, not 56...

0:20:010:20:05

-We can if you want...

-But you don't want.

-We can go 57.1,

0:20:050:20:10

but I think that'll be too hot. That goes on for exactly 20 minutes.

0:20:100:20:13

And the beauty of cooking that way,

0:20:130:20:15

-is rather than when I put the shoulder into the pan the meat instantly tightens up...

-Oh, yes.

0:20:150:20:20

-This way, it doesn't tighten up at all. It's like going in a warm bath.

-Yes.

-It just relaxes.

0:20:200:20:25

So we get our crust now, and we're going to just bin that out on some silicone paper.

0:20:250:20:30

Just lay the other sheet over the top, roll it nice and thin,

0:20:300:20:34

and then we'll put that on a tray, into the fridge...

0:20:340:20:36

-Jimmy!

-Jimmy!

0:20:360:20:38

We're going to make... I suppose you'd call it cheesy mashed potato.

0:20:380:20:42

-What would YOU call it, then?

-Pommes aligote.

-Oooh(!)

0:20:420:20:46

Can you just pass me another gadget over, please?

0:20:460:20:49

Oh, this is a man so much after my own heart.

0:20:490:20:52

-It's a Thermomix.

-Thermomix.

0:20:520:20:54

You see, this... It not only blends, purifies and pulses,

0:20:540:20:58

but it can cook at the same time!

0:20:580:21:00

We'll add some whipping cream into here,

0:21:000:21:02

we'll set the temperature to about 60 degrees,

0:21:020:21:05

and then as it's warming, we'll just keep adding the cheese to emulsify it.

0:21:050:21:10

Like a cheese puree, almost.

0:21:100:21:11

We'll just start to add our cheese to that...

0:21:110:21:14

-..and let that emulsify.

-I want one.

0:21:140:21:17

OK. So what we've got here is just a potato puree.

0:21:170:21:20

So we just take some of that, and put that into our pan here.

0:21:200:21:24

So we've come back to our cheese puree now, and we turn it right up,

0:21:240:21:27

and give it a really good blast just to get it all to mix up.

0:21:270:21:30

-And that's what we've got there.

-Look at that!

0:21:310:21:34

We're just going to warm up some milk. Just get all that out.

0:21:340:21:38

We're just going to add to that now a bit of milk,

0:21:380:21:40

and a little bit more butter.

0:21:400:21:42

You can see now that's got a few lumps in it,

0:21:420:21:45

and we want it to be silky-smooth.

0:21:450:21:47

-Behind you there's a drum sieve.

-Yes, Chef.

0:21:470:21:50

You can see I'm just taking out all those lumps... So there we go.

0:21:500:21:54

-Scrape the rest of that.

-Aww, man...!

-We'll go back to our onion puree.

0:21:540:21:58

I've actually got one here which is ready...

0:21:580:22:01

-Go on, say it - you're dying to.

-"One I prepared earlier."

0:22:010:22:04

-Good man!

-Good lad. Good lad.

0:22:040:22:06

It's like an onion jelly - but when it's hot it sets, when it's cold it melts.

0:22:060:22:10

We're going to use this product Methocel, which is what makes the jelly the opposite way round.

0:22:100:22:16

So our chicken stock goes in. Double cream goes in.

0:22:160:22:18

Into that, we put our Methocel.

0:22:180:22:21

Could you pour while I stir that in?

0:22:210:22:23

So this is our jelly mould. Take some clingfilm...

0:22:260:22:30

We pour our mousse in.

0:22:300:22:32

This is our slightly caramelised onion mousse,

0:22:320:22:34

going to wrap it in clingfilm.

0:22:340:22:36

I think our timer's just gone off for our lamb.

0:22:360:22:39

You can just feel that, it's changed the textures of the lamb.

0:22:390:22:43

So we'll just put that there.

0:22:430:22:44

Some lovely little baby beetroots - just cook those down in a little bit of water, salt, sugar.

0:22:440:22:49

The liquor they were in, we use to reheat them.

0:22:490:22:52

We've cooked some baby carrots down in carrot juice,

0:22:520:22:55

and then we've got some baby turnips, and a few baby leeks, in a little water and butter to glaze them up.

0:22:550:23:01

We've pressed our lamb shoulder. We've got a little bit of fat running through it,

0:23:010:23:06

it'll be lovely and tender when we cook that.

0:23:060:23:09

-And will that stay...?

-Well, we hope it will.

-Right, OK.

0:23:090:23:12

So we're just going to trim that up.

0:23:120:23:14

So we're just going to seal that off... We're adding that roasted flavour back to it.

0:23:140:23:19

We're going to add some of our lamb jus.

0:23:190:23:22

Just glaze that up.

0:23:220:23:23

So this is our herb crust...

0:23:260:23:28

It's like a biscuit.

0:23:280:23:30

So this is when I have to judge to get the right sort of size.

0:23:300:23:33

This is like the lovely Derbyshire grass on the top of our lamb.

0:23:330:23:38

Now we'll grab our lamb. It's not going to have a really strong flavour, so very quickly in a hot pan

0:23:380:23:43

we just seal it off on the outside.

0:23:430:23:46

I think it needs this just to finish it off.

0:23:460:23:48

Just to give it that oomph at the end.

0:23:480:23:51

So that's ready.

0:23:510:23:53

So that comes out,

0:23:530:23:55

and that goes on there.

0:23:550:23:56

The last thing we need to do is we've just got some pea shoots...

0:23:560:24:00

We've got some of the little buds off of the wild garlic,

0:24:000:24:03

and some of the garlic leaves. These, we're talking seconds,

0:24:030:24:07

just in a little bit of butter, bit of water.

0:24:070:24:09

All our vegetables are nice and hot... Onto there.

0:24:090:24:12

Lovely beetroots. Baby turnips. Which we've cut down.

0:24:120:24:17

So we've got some pea shoots and our garlic, and I've got here

0:24:170:24:20

a few really tiny young garlic leaves, which we're just going to put on raw.

0:24:200:24:24

They'll just go on the stove for literally ten seconds.

0:24:240:24:28

Just sit that along the back...

0:24:350:24:37

Just go round the front with our different vegetables.

0:24:370:24:40

I think they're going to know which dish is which!

0:24:420:24:45

I think that's highly likely, dude.

0:24:450:24:48

So now we'll come to our jellies here.

0:24:480:24:51

-We've just got some little tiny onion rings...

-Aw, man!

-..to add to the top.

0:24:550:24:59

So that's our sort of Derbyshire pommes aligote.

0:25:010:25:04

Got our lovely lamb jus,

0:25:050:25:08

and we'll just glaze up the herb crust.

0:25:080:25:11

Go round with that.

0:25:120:25:14

-There we go.

-Chef...headline your dish for us, give us the title.

0:25:150:25:19

So, we've got braised shoulder,

0:25:190:25:21

slow-poached canon of Derbyshire lamb

0:25:210:25:23

Derbyshire oatcake crust, and a caramelised onion mousse.

0:25:230:25:27

-Fabulous.

-Fantastic.

-Absolutely fantastic, Chef.

0:25:270:25:30

That's a work of art.

0:25:310:25:33

-It's an event.

-Let's just pause a moment...

0:25:330:25:36

OK, that's enough.

0:25:360:25:37

The intensity of that jelly, and the kind of texture that it is -

0:25:380:25:41

when it goes into your mouth it goes back to its original state.

0:25:410:25:46

It's onion. It's a synthesis of the taste of onions.

0:25:460:25:49

Each vegetable has the most intense flavour.

0:25:490:25:52

-This is one of the nicest meals I've ever tasted.

-Yeah.

0:25:520:25:55

That is unbelievable.

0:25:550:25:57

-It's so, so fresh.

-This meat is just sublime.

0:25:570:26:00

It's to die for.

0:26:000:26:02

Whoa, that's posh tatey, isn't it? It's great!

0:26:020:26:05

Oh, man!

0:26:060:26:07

Well, I think as a plate of food it all works together really well. And I think we're in the doop!

0:26:070:26:13

-Yeah. Fair enough!

-Fair enough.

0:26:130:26:15

'It's all very well what WE think, but the real judges are the locals

0:26:150:26:18

'who will decide whose dish is best in a blind tasting coming up.'

0:26:180:26:22

The inevitable challenge. What to cook, Kingy?

0:26:270:26:30

-Fish, dude. Let's cook seafood!

-Don't be ridiculous. Derbyshire's landlocked. It's like Switzerland.

0:26:300:26:36

-They don't do trawlers!

-Well, Switzerland has seafood.

0:26:360:26:39

Kingy, Kingy, Kingy. Vegetables.

0:26:390:26:41

Derbyshire has this great tradition of market gardening.

0:26:410:26:45

-Vegetables. We need to look to the land.

-Vegetables?!

0:26:450:26:48

-Kingy. Just say yes.

-Vegetables have never been a main event, man.

0:26:480:26:52

They're a garnish!

0:26:520:26:53

Good grief, you're so negative! Kingy - be positive, just say yes.

0:26:530:26:57

Yes!

0:26:570:26:59

SI WHINGES

0:26:590:27:00

'Between the wars, there were about 100 market gardeners

0:27:000:27:03

'in the Melbourne area of Derbyshire.

0:27:030:27:06

'Although numbers have fallen since then, there are still veg producers

0:27:060:27:10

'who sell their crops exclusively to local restaurants and shops.

0:27:100:27:13

'We met Martin Sharp, from the South Derbyshire Growers' Association.'

0:27:130:27:17

-That's PSB!

-It's PSB, isn't it?

0:27:170:27:19

-Purple sprouting broccoli.

-That's right, yeah.

0:27:190:27:22

Look at that. Still dripping with the dew from the field.

0:27:220:27:25

Martin, what do you do here, then? How does it work?

0:27:250:27:28

Well, we're the growers. We grow everything from seed,

0:27:280:27:32

plant it in the fields, harvest it, take it to market and sell it.

0:27:320:27:36

Well - from small acorns doth great oaks grow.

0:27:360:27:39

This is a great start. Can we buy some of this?

0:27:390:27:42

I'm afraid not, it's all spoken for.

0:27:420:27:44

The local guy Barry Hodgkinson's coming to pick it up. He's South Derbyshire Growers,

0:27:440:27:50

and he's having it all.

0:27:500:27:51

Well, we need to speak to and follow Barry, don't we?!

0:27:510:27:54

-Is this him in the van?

-This is him, yeah. He's coming now.

0:27:540:27:57

-You all right there, Martin?

-Hi, Barry.

-What you got here, then?

0:27:570:28:01

-You're the man that flogs the veggies, aren't you?

-Yeah.

0:28:010:28:04

-So can we buy some of the fantastic veg?

-Well, it's all spoken for.

0:28:040:28:08

But if you help me out, we'll see what we can do.

0:28:080:28:11

-Where do you want it, Barry?

-In the van.

-Hold me helmet, Martin.

0:28:110:28:14

-Anything to do with vegetables, we have to work for it.

-Come on!

0:28:140:28:18

Meat - fine, you just walk into a shop and you buy it.

0:28:180:28:22

-We're going to pop it in the van, so we can meet up with Brian. How about that?

-Yes!

0:28:220:28:27

-Barry - in Derbyshire, what produce do you sell and grow here?

-Ooh, a range of produce.

0:28:290:28:35

We start in the spring with the spring salads, lettuce,

0:28:350:28:38

and we go on to things like spring cabbage, beetroot, runner beans...

0:28:380:28:43

And what does it mean to you to do this?

0:28:430:28:46

Oh, it's not just about me making a living - it's about supporting the whole tradition of market gardening

0:28:460:28:53

and rural tradition in general in this part of Derbyshire, which is where I was born and bred.

0:28:530:28:58

-You're a proper old-fashioned market gardener.

-Yeah, cum-farm shop.

0:29:020:29:07

-So what treasures are we picking up?

-You tell them, Brian.

0:29:070:29:11

There's not a lot available for the next month or so,

0:29:110:29:14

but we've got carrots and leeks still.

0:29:140:29:16

Can we have a look, before we start humping?

0:29:160:29:19

-I'm sure they can.

-Sure, yeah.

-Go have a walk.

0:29:190:29:22

Leave it to Barry, he's a strong fella.

0:29:220:29:25

Yeah, these are the... That's a bit of a pull. These are the leeks.

0:29:250:29:29

We could do summat with these, Kingy.

0:29:290:29:33

-You cannot leave these, can you?

-Look at that.

0:29:330:29:36

I love when you've got that moisture that's from the soil - you know, the dew.

0:29:360:29:40

It's that heavy mix, isn't it? The smell of the soil, and then the wonderful smell of oniony, earthy...

0:29:400:29:47

You're crying out to be in a leek and potato soup.

0:29:470:29:50

-You love this, don't you?

-Yeah, it's your hobby, your passion, everything rolled into one.

0:29:500:29:55

It has to be, for the amount of effort that you put into it.

0:29:550:29:58

Look at that, Kingy - my leek looks like Tina Turner.

0:29:580:30:01

# Private dancer, only for money... #

0:30:010:30:05

THE BEACH BOYS: # I'm gonna keep well my vegetables Cart off and sell my vegetables

0:30:050:30:11

# I love you... #

0:30:110:30:13

Yeah, so these are the carrots that we grow.

0:30:130:30:15

That's a perfect carrot as ever I've seen.

0:30:150:30:18

These are real carrots, and they look a bit wacky. But they taste brilliant.

0:30:180:30:22

You wouldn't find them in supermarkets.

0:30:220:30:24

No. You get some weird and wonderful shapes, but they all taste the same.

0:30:240:30:28

You see - by just saying yes, we're ending up with all this wonderful food.

0:30:280:30:33

No - yes, Dave. Fair do's. Yes.

0:30:330:30:36

What we need to do now is go back and see Barry - see where he's going to take us to now.

0:30:360:30:41

-That's us! Are we all loaded, Barry?

-We are. All loaded and ready to go.

0:30:420:30:46

-Excellent.

-What's next, Barry, cos we're just gonna go with the flow!

0:30:460:30:50

-Well, we're going to have a drop-off this time - we're off to Calke Abbey.

-Yes.

0:30:500:30:55

He's like Jean-Claude Van Man - The Vegetator.

0:30:580:31:01

-BARRY LAUGHS

-Not much time for vegetating in this job.

0:31:010:31:05

We're at the restaurant, one of Barry's local drop-offs.

0:31:110:31:14

-All right, Chef?

-Hello!

0:31:140:31:17

-We've got your stuff.

-Thank you very much.

0:31:170:31:20

-Taters. You got 'em?

-Thank you.

0:31:210:31:23

-Four loose carrots.

-Four.

0:31:230:31:25

Ooh, they smell good.

0:31:250:31:27

It's not very organised, mind, is it(?) Just as well you've had your Weetabix.

0:31:280:31:32

'To celebrate Derbyshire's vegetable heritage, we'll cook up bubble and squeak

0:31:320:31:37

'topped with purple sprouting broccoli and Vichy carrots.

0:31:370:31:40

'But to accompany it, another outstanding local flavour.

0:31:400:31:44

'Here at Calke Abbey, deer roam in the 240-hectare estate.

0:31:440:31:48

'Head gamekeeper Bill Cove is making the introductions.'

0:31:480:31:53

-Are those DEER nuts(?)

-Really expensive, this lot.

0:31:530:31:57

And we'll see if they'll come across. See if they're interested in a bit of food.

0:31:570:32:02

-Sss, sss, sss...

-Come on, boys!

0:32:020:32:05

HE SHAKES THE BUCKET

0:32:050:32:06

-Aren't they elegant?

-Bit tatty right now in their winter coat.

0:32:060:32:09

They're beautiful.

0:32:090:32:11

You'll find the jackdaws'll spend a lot of time on their backs now pulling all the dead hair out.

0:32:110:32:16

-For their nests?

-Yeah, lining their nests.

0:32:160:32:18

So how many deer are on the estate, Bill?

0:32:180:32:21

Well, within this enclosed park we keep about 80 fallow deer and about 30 reds.

0:32:210:32:26

And of course those numbers are bumped up every year with all the youngsters being born.

0:32:260:32:31

And that's the surplus we have to take out -

0:32:310:32:34

it's an enclosed park, you can't keep increasing your numbers.

0:32:340:32:37

Do you take it to local butcheries and restaurants?

0:32:370:32:40

Yeah, they're all sold to farm shops. Direct to the public as well.

0:32:400:32:45

But also, a lot goes straight through the restaurant

0:32:450:32:48

-on the property.

-Have deer been in Derbyshire a long time?

0:32:480:32:51

-We've always eaten deer.

-Right.

-Always eaten it here.

0:32:510:32:54

-So it is quite appropriate for us in Derbyshire to cook venison.

-Definitely.

0:32:540:32:58

OK, let's bring you in here. This is the larder,

0:33:030:33:05

-and I think this is probably what you've come to find.

-Look at that beauty!

0:33:050:33:10

In terms of what we're wanting to do, what sort of joints are you looking for?

0:33:100:33:14

The fella that we're against has a Michelin star. It's got to be the finest cut.

0:33:140:33:19

In terms of the venison then you can have the loin, all the way down this piece...

0:33:190:33:24

Can't go wrong with that, can you?

0:33:240:33:26

-You can't.

-Just sear it, rest it and serve it.

0:33:260:33:29

Sounds good to me.

0:33:290:33:30

-What are we doing?

-We're doing a loin of venison with a sloe gin and blackberry glaze.

0:33:330:33:37

-And served with bubble and squeak!

-And candied shallots.

-Vichy carrots.

0:33:370:33:41

'But will the local diners think our dish is good enough to beat Rupert's in a blind tasting?'

0:33:410:33:47

First off, I need to make some pancetta blankets, in order to roll the venison.

0:33:470:33:52

The loin runs here... Now, that's the fillet.

0:33:520:33:55

-This is Derbyshire venison, then?

-It is, yes.

0:33:550:33:58

So what we'll do once the loin comes out is just trim it up.

0:33:580:34:01

Now, into the bowl I'm just going to put some olive oil,

0:34:010:34:05

salt and pepper, and some dried thyme.

0:34:050:34:07

Crack it in two for us, mate.

0:34:080:34:10

Fab. Just roll that in the olive oil and thyme...

0:34:110:34:15

Put that on there.

0:34:160:34:17

Just roll that, we want it nice and snug.

0:34:170:34:20

I'll cut them seam side down so that seals first. Gonna sear it, then finish it in the oven.

0:34:230:34:28

What I'm gonna do is I'm just knock off a leek...

0:34:280:34:31

So you mix the potato and the cabbage. These are your building blocks for bubble and squeak.

0:34:310:34:37

-I'm going to saute these off...

-Yeah.

-..in a little bit of butter,

0:34:370:34:41

and that'll do us really.

0:34:410:34:43

Butter... Excuse me.

0:34:430:34:44

-There you go.

-Thank you.

0:34:440:34:46

Right, now, that's on.

0:34:460:34:47

I really want this nicely combined. I'm using about an equal quantity of cabbage to potato.

0:34:470:34:53

That's what we want. We don't want them caramelised, we just want them relaxed.

0:34:530:34:57

Now, we put those leeks in there. Look at that!

0:34:570:35:01

A bit of butter...

0:35:010:35:02

-Look a that.

-Lovely.

0:35:020:35:04

I'll use the maurice for this. It's not as good as your hands, though.

0:35:040:35:08

I'll just oil those rings.

0:35:080:35:10

-Oh, yes.

-Always got to oil your ring(!)

0:35:100:35:12

-You're packin' 'em in there.

-Oh, aye.

0:35:130:35:16

-That's the bubble on.

-I'll knock the carrots out.

0:35:160:35:18

-And I'm going to make candied shallots.

-Vichy carrots. Simple.

0:35:180:35:22

Vichy carrots are carrots cooked in the alkaline qualities of Vichy water.

0:35:220:35:27

-Then we reduce them to a puree.

-So have you got Vichy water from Derbyshire?

0:35:270:35:31

No, no. Buxton!

0:35:310:35:34

Ah.

0:35:340:35:35

-It's more a method than a statement.

-Ah, right.

0:35:350:35:38

I've got some shallots. And they've just been blanched for about five, seven minutes so they're soft.

0:35:380:35:43

And the shallots go into the butter.

0:35:430:35:45

And we just do them till they're nice and golden.

0:35:450:35:48

Now, what we do with these carrots -

0:35:480:35:50

put them in a pan, just cover them with water...

0:35:500:35:53

We're going to put about two tablespoons of butter in there.

0:35:550:35:59

We're just going to put the zest of an orange.

0:35:590:36:02

Are they Derbyshire oranges, or...?

0:36:020:36:04

-Listen.

-He's getting at us.

-Isn't he?

0:36:050:36:07

-When these are cooked, we'll pass it through...

-The Thermoblaster?

-..the Thermoblaster.

0:36:070:36:12

To the onions, I'm just going to sprinkle on about a tablespoon of caster sugar.

0:36:120:36:16

-You're going to caramelise that further?

-Oh, yes.

0:36:160:36:19

Into this bowl here...

0:36:190:36:20

..I've got 250ml of stock.

0:36:210:36:24

-To that, I'm adding 75ml of red wine...

-Yes.

0:36:240:36:27

-..50ml of port...

-You're not wrong.

0:36:290:36:31

-..and 50ml of cassis.

-You're not wrong.

0:36:320:36:35

I'm adding a quarter of this, and letting it boil down. This is going to make a wonderful syrup.

0:36:350:36:40

-So you're reducing that down round them.

-Yes.

0:36:400:36:42

To that, I'm going to put a bay leaf,

0:36:420:36:44

and the zest of half a lemon.

0:36:440:36:47

So I can put the last of my stock, wine, cassis and port in there...

0:36:480:36:52

-What are we doing now?

-Well, tomatoes.

-Tomatoes.

0:36:520:36:55

Now, this really IS simple. Throwaway item.

0:36:550:36:58

Just salt, olive oil...

0:36:580:37:00

Pepparius.

0:37:020:37:04

Some balsamic vinegar.

0:37:050:37:06

-We'll set these aside. We'll put them up there, look...

-Yeah.

0:37:060:37:09

Can we have the Turboblaster!

0:37:090:37:12

My onions are just reaching critical mass.

0:37:120:37:15

-Into that, we're going to put some chervil.

-White pepper, Mr King?

-Yes.

0:37:150:37:19

It's a chervil sprinkle.

0:37:210:37:23

Do you want me to do that?

0:37:230:37:25

Ho-ho-ho...

0:37:270:37:29

-Oh!

-MACHINE WHIZZES

0:37:290:37:31

INAUDIBLE

0:37:330:37:35

I'm heating up the pan for the venison. There's a steamer on for the broccoli,

0:37:400:37:45

and those are a treacly loveliness.

0:37:450:37:47

-Are they all pureed down now?

-Yeah, that's the consistency we want.

0:37:470:37:51

-Shall I get the venison on, Kingy?

-Yeah. I'll crack on with this.

0:37:510:37:54

It's important that you put the venison in to sear with the seam side down, cos I want that to seal,

0:37:540:37:59

and once that's done we're going to roll it round till it's golden all over.

0:37:590:38:03

-Kingy?

-Hello.

-Could you pick through some purple sprouting broccoli?

-Yes.

0:38:030:38:08

That's that.

0:38:080:38:09

This goes in the oven for seven minutes,

0:38:110:38:14

along with the tomatoes. Right, seven. Yeah, seven minutes, please.

0:38:140:38:19

We've got what's called a demi-glace, and what that is

0:38:190:38:24

is a reduction of beef stock. Or any stock, actually.

0:38:240:38:26

-Veal stock, really.

-Oh, is it?

0:38:260:38:28

And then we're going to crush some juniper berries.

0:38:280:38:31

Not into a powder, we're just breaking the husks.

0:38:310:38:34

When the venison comes out, we're going to deglaze the pan with this - sloe gin.

0:38:340:38:40

Great flavours with venison.

0:38:400:38:41

That's come out nice.

0:38:410:38:43

They can just rest and roll in the juice.

0:38:430:38:46

We're going to put this back onto the heat. Tablespoon sloe gin.

0:38:460:38:50

I'm adding the demi-glace to the pan...

0:38:500:38:53

This is a bag of carrots.

0:38:530:38:55

These are juniper berries.

0:38:550:38:57

-I'm putting the broccoli on now.

-Yeah, that's good.

-Time for me to get the bubble on.

0:38:570:39:02

Now we'll sieve the sauce, to get rid of those juniper berries,

0:39:020:39:06

and add the blackberries. Put it back onto the heat.

0:39:060:39:09

-Look at that, Kingy!

-That's good. Lush, man.

0:39:100:39:13

I think that's enough.

0:39:210:39:23

They're really glazed up now, aren't they?

0:39:230:39:25

Brilliant. All we need is nine pieces.

0:39:250:39:28

That's six there...

0:39:280:39:30

There...

0:39:350:39:36

Oh, look at that.

0:39:440:39:45

-Yes.

-Yes.

0:39:480:39:50

-That's it.

-That's it.

-That's the job!

0:39:500:39:53

There we have it. Derbyshire on a plate.

0:39:530:39:55

We've got a loin of venison with a sloe gin and blackberry glaze!

0:39:550:39:59

-And we've got some bubble and squeak...

-Candied shallots.

0:39:590:40:02

And some Vichy carrots sitting underneath.

0:40:020:40:04

With an anointment...of a cherry tomato, purple sprouting broccoli

0:40:040:40:08

as an homage to the market gardeners of Derbyshire!

0:40:080:40:11

-Right...

-Judgment time, Rupert.

-Venison's one of my favourites.

0:40:110:40:15

Well, it's good Derbyshire venison.

0:40:150:40:17

Yeah, the venison's good. Carrot really comes through with the sweetness

0:40:190:40:24

and then the blackberry on the top's lovely.

0:40:240:40:26

Yeah. Lovely.

0:40:310:40:32

You get the lovely sweet and sour with the shallots coming through

0:40:320:40:37

which goes well.

0:40:370:40:38

Broccoli's nice and crunchy still. Not too cooked.

0:40:380:40:41

I think you've done Derbyshire proud on your travels.

0:40:410:40:45

-Well, coming from you that's a great compliment.

-Thanks very much.

0:40:460:40:50

No, it's good.

0:40:500:40:51

'It's crunch time. The diners here will taste both dishes,

0:40:510:40:55

'but with no idea who cooked which.

0:40:550:40:57

'First, Rupert's canon and shoulder of lamb

0:40:570:40:59

'with a herb oatcake crust and an onion mousse.'

0:40:590:41:03

The lamb was lovely and tender, particularly the shoulder cut.

0:41:030:41:06

Strong flavours. But quite a nice, light dish, really.

0:41:060:41:10

Beautifully presented, very modern.

0:41:100:41:11

The piece de resistance was the potato mash. I thought that was excellent.

0:41:110:41:16

The two lambs were very different, the shoulder and the canon.

0:41:160:41:20

That was a compliment to the dish.

0:41:200:41:22

The mash was very nice, but it had a very lasting taste

0:41:220:41:26

which spoilt it a little.

0:41:260:41:27

It represents our county very well. The spring lamb

0:41:270:41:30

is one of the best meats that we produce in the county.

0:41:300:41:34

It's the sort of dish that I would hope and expect to get

0:41:340:41:38

when I'm dining in Derbyshire.

0:41:380:41:39

'That seemed to be popular. How will OUR dish go down?

0:41:410:41:44

'Time to find out.'

0:41:440:41:45

I thought the presentation was a little contrived, a little clumsy.

0:41:460:41:50

Carrots Vichy, which is French - I don't know what that's doing in a Derbyshire dish.

0:41:500:41:55

The venison really was very tasteful, very tender.

0:41:550:41:58

The shallots were wonderful.

0:41:580:42:00

Bubble and squeak - that didn't do a thing for me.

0:42:000:42:03

I don't normally like venison,

0:42:030:42:05

but I would definitely choose it again based on that.

0:42:050:42:07

Not something I would immediately associate with Derbyshire.

0:42:070:42:11

It doesn't ring as true a bell as say, lamb or beef.

0:42:110:42:14

Derby after all means "deer park". That was its derivation.

0:42:140:42:17

So it IS Derbyshire through and through.

0:42:170:42:20

Hello, how are you?

0:42:200:42:22

Thank you very much for coming. We've had great food in Derbyshire, met some great people.

0:42:230:42:28

And this fella, here...

0:42:280:42:30

-He's a canny lad.

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you.

0:42:300:42:33

OK. This is the bit we don't like. It's decision time.

0:42:330:42:37

Could I have please a show of hands for the lamb?

0:42:380:42:42

So that's one, two, three, four, five, six for the lamb. OK, good.

0:42:420:42:47

And now could I have a show of hands, please, for the venison.

0:42:470:42:51

One, two, three. OK, good.

0:42:510:42:53

The lamb...

0:42:530:42:54

..was Rupert's dish.

0:42:550:42:57

-APPLAUSE

-He's the man.

0:42:580:42:59

I've got to say, it's one of the nicest things I've tasted as well!

0:42:590:43:03

We were kinda going, "We divven't care! Oh, it's mega."

0:43:030:43:06

I think all that remains is for us

0:43:060:43:09

to thank Rupert for his hospitality, We've learnt an awful lot. And we've had great fun.

0:43:090:43:14

-And he's a brilliant chef.

-Yes, you're very lucky to have him.

0:43:140:43:17

Time for a beer now. Lead the way, Chef!

0:43:170:43:20

See ya. Thanks very much indeed.

0:43:200:43:22

'Rupert's dish was a feast for eyes and palate,

0:43:230:43:26

'so we knew a win here would be tough. But hey - it was all good fun in the kitchen.

0:43:260:43:30

'And I've got to say Derbyshire is fit to bursting with food treasures.'

0:43:300:43:34

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Limited

0:43:520:43:54

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:540:43:56

Si and Dave explore Derbyshire, where they cook a traditional county favourite at The Buxton Pavilion Gardens. They source venison from Calke Abbey and vegetables from local market gardeners. Finally, they face a cook-off against Michelin-starred chef Rupert Rowley. Restaurant diners decide who has created the best taste of Derbyshire.


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