Monmouthshire The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Monmouthshire

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We're on the road to find regional recipes to rev up your appetite.

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We're riding county to county to discover,

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cook and enjoy the best of British.

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-Come on!

-Wayhey!

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Today, we're in search of the real taste of Monmouthshire.

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Oh, look at that, dude.

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It's beautiful.

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Monmouthshire! Oh, man, we're on the edge of Wales, you know, looking in.

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It feels like it.

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And did you know that Monmouthshire was awarded

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the best food tourist destination in Wales in 2009?

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I did, dude. That's why we're here.

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I mean, what is a food tourist? Are we food tourists?

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I see us more as food adventurers, food explorers on a food safari.

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-Right, anyway, we better get on.

-Let's head for Abergavenny.

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It's over there, nestled in the hills beyond the Sugarloaf Mountain.

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On our quest to find the true flavours of Monmouthshire

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we visit Chepstow to cook up a county favourite

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as old as the hills that it comes from.

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We find some of the best cured meats we've ever tasted

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and get our hands dirty curing some of our own.

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We taste history with a drink made here for hundreds of years.

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And representing Monmouthshire in the cook-off is Stephen Terry.

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Will we be able to beat him

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in a blind tasting judged by local diners?

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Our first port of call is Abergavenny,

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known as the gateway to Wales.

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Abergavenny, it's bonny. Nestling in Monmouth's Black Mountains.

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Fab, isn't it? And it's a Mecca of all things foodie and local.

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Look, there's some wonderful, wonderful traditional shops.

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What's the food of Monmouthshire to you?

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-I don't know. Fish and chips?

-Right?

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Nice cakes, pastries.

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Erm... Cawl soup.

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Right, what's in cawl?

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Well, anything, really. Vegetable, meat. It's a personal taste, innit?

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I like tripe, my wife doesn't.

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That's the same as me.

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I like tripe, Dave doesn't.

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But I'm not his wife, though.

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Si, I know you've been away a long time, but...

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Now, we've just popped into a lovely Welsh tea shop.

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You know, just for a little cuppa. It's lush.

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-Tea shops are really traditional in Wales, aren't they?

-Very much so.

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Look, proper cups. China, get your pinky out.

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Ah, look at that.

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Come and have a sit and a chat.

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-Now what have we got here?

-That is the traditional Welsh barrow bread.

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It is soaked in fruit and it's also soaked in the Welsh brew tea,

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exactly what you're drinking there.

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And then when it comes in lovely, we slash on the Welsh butter!

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Ah! And it's lovely with a cup of tea.

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It was made to go together.

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That is our whisky fruit cake.

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It's got plenty of organic cherries, lots of whisky, award-winning.

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Unfortunately, when it got its gold award,

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trading standards looked into it and said

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there was far too much alcohol to be able to sell that in our shop

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without an alcoholic licence.

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-How ridiculous.

-So we get it under the counter for free?

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Hey!

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Welsh products, that's what we want.

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-Oh, cheese, yes.

-Are you a big champion of Monmouthshire food?

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I am. There is some fabulous food in Monmouthshire, especially cheeses.

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This is an Abergavenny Y-Fenni cheese,

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made with mustard seed and Welsh ale.

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You can smell the mustard!

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And the ale comes through after a while.

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Very savoury.

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-Nice.

-Packed with flavour.

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The next cheese, guys, is a Harlech.

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Let's cut you a bit of this to try.

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I like that, Dave.

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Quite sweet, isn't it?

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I was just about to say, there's a sweetness to it.

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-And it's got you on the front.

-I hope I had a waist like that, dude.

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Is there anything we should look out for in Monmouthshire?

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The steak in the butcher's down here is the best steak in the world.

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I've eaten it all over the place.

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-Faggots.

-Faggots, right.

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And sausages, cos you've got such a variety of sausages.

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Go and get a hot faggot, beautiful.

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What's the difference between an English faggot and a Welsh faggot?

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-Just the ingredients.

-Right.

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What's in your faggots?

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There's a combination of everything to make them so flavoursome.

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Everything's fresh in them.

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Onions and seeds.

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-They're fantastic.

-Lovely.

-Nice flavour?

-Oh, yeah.

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You've got the most incredible selection of sausages

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I think I've ever seen.

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I started making them in 1990, I done my first competition.

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Since then, I've been Welsh champion three times in a row.

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This is our sort of place, this, it's great.

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These have just won a competition, all local grown herbs.

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-So juicy.

-Yes.

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Oh, that's heaven.

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There's no doubting Abergavenny's food pedigree,

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but we're still on the look-out for Monmouthshire's signature dish.

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Are there any dishes that you had when you were little that your mam made?

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-Well, soups and stew, Welsh cawl.

-Welsh cawl?

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Yes, soup. C-A-W-L.

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-Oh, right, what is it?

-It's a soup.

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It's made with vegetables and lamb.

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Just keep filling up the pot through the week,

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as my grandmother used to do.

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Any any chance of coming round your house

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for something to eat? It sounds great!

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Well, I suppose, being Welsh,

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-you get a lot of cawl and that sort of thing.

-What is cawl?

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Well, it's like a stew, a soup.

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The school made the best cawl ever.

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-Really?

-Yeah, a little old Welsh lady, absolutely fantastic.

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-And what was in that?

-Everything.

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Lamb, carrots, leeks, onions, potato,

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and a big chunk of cheese and chunk of bread on the side.

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Even as kids, I loved that. Dunk your cheese in

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so it goes all gooey... and then your bread.

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-Now that's a top tip.

-That's top!

-Yeah.

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Well, there isn't much doubt about this one.

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The county dish is definitely cawl.

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It's back to the butchers to get our ingredients.

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This is what makes real Welsh cawl.

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-Best end of neck.

-The neck of lamb.

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Would you put that on the bone in your cawl?

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-Yes, on the bone - traditional.

-Right.

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All of your thickening agencies

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will come from your bone, obviously, in the stock.

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-Cartilage, yeah.

-And all that lovely flavour as well.

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You'll have a little thin layer of grease on the top. Nice.

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I think we've got our traditional recipe.

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I think we have.

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We're cooking our version of cawl in Chepstow on the River Wye.

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-Have you been to Chepstow before?

-No.

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-Haven't you? It's pretty, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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The river is a natural border with England,

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but, for our recipe, our feet will be firmly on Welsh soil.

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We'll be cooking a traditional cawl, a hearty lamb stew,

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using best end of neck with potatoes, carrots, leeks, onions and swede.

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# South of the border, down Monmouthshire way. #

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Over there is England, here's Monmouthshire. We're in Wales! Shwmae, Cymru!

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THEY CHEER

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And I've got me symbols of Wales.

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# There'll be a welcome in the hillside. #

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Will you cut...! We've got to use them.

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-We'll skin them.

-That's the River Wye there, look.

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-It's beautiful, isn't it?

-Isn't it?

-It really is border country.

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Gloucestershire, Monmouthshire,

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but this is most definitely in Wales.

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-We're cooking cawl.

-Cawl.

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MOCK WELSH ACCENTS

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-Cawl.

-Cawl.

-Cawl.

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-What is it, darling?

-"Cowl"!

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No need to be rude, missus, we were only asking!

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-Cawl.

-Cawl.

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Step one in the cawl, stock.

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Now, obviously, lamb stock will be best.

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Put a couple of pints of that in a sturdy pan.

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Lamb, and this is best end of neck,

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each piece cut into three on the bone.

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Cos there's no thickener in the stew,

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the thickening comes from the gelatine in the meat.

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-You take your meat and you put it in the stock.

-Ooh!

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Like that, you see.

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So that's the one we put on and simmer for an hour.

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Here's one that's been simmering for an hour.

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So, basically, we've got a pan of boiled meat.

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Next step, it's the vegetables.

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Leeks, carrots, swede or turnip.

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-That's a potato.

-And onion. The gang of five.

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So, top and tail the leeks, get rid of the outer leaf.

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Taking the skin off, cutting the ends off

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and then moving on to the next one.

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We like the leeks cut in rings. I'm gonna wash me leeks.

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This is clean, cold water. Leave to soak there for a bit.

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Do you say swede or turnip down here?

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-ALL:

-Swede.

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-Never turnip?

-No.

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What do you mean?

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It's different, isn't it?

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Ask the Oracle.

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-Madam, what is it?

-It's a swede.

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I'll have to go with that, I'm afraid.

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So that's just best end of neck, simmered away in stock.

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We've put in chunks of swede,

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now the leeks...

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Carrots.

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See all the colours. It seems odd, there's no seasoning

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or anything gone in at this point. It's just the pure flavours.

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It's a simple dish, but tasty.

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I think we've got enough onion in there now.

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Yeah. Put in the tatties.

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So, the lid goes on and we simmer that for another hour.

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-Should we season now?

-Yes, I would, so it'll boil up nice.

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-OK, darling.

-She's great, isn't she?

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What's your name?

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-Marjorie.

-Marjorie?

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-Griffiths.

-Griffiths?

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-Mm-hmm.

-A good Welsh name.

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It is. It's either that or Marjorie Jones, isn't it?

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Marjorie Griffiths, this is your cawl.

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And we simmer that for one hour until the vegetables are soft.

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Now, here is one...

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We made earlier!

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Get out of the way!

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Two big pots of lovely cawl.

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Look at that!

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Let's taste it.

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Hmm.

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-Actually, it doesn't need that much seasoning.

-No.

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Aw, look at that.

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Lots of pepper. The history of it's very interesting,

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because working men and women used to come in from mines

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and the fields and all that sort of stuff.

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And they'd have different shift patterns, wouldn't they?

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My gran, like you said earlier, kept it boiling.

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And it would go on for a couple of days.

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-On the hob.

-And it was always there.

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"Go have some stew," you know.

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-Look at that, it's lovely, innit?

-Yeah.

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Any tips as to what you have your cawl with?

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-Bear in mind we've...

-Bread.

-Bread.

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Definitely bread.

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No butter.

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-No.

-Just bread.

-Butter on the bread.

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You have butter? With butter, without butter.

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It's all gonna kick off in a minute!

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-Any suggestions?

-Bread, it's gotta be almost stale bread.

-Oh, yeah.

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Old bread, so it sucks up the gravy.

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Sucks up the gravy. They're the girls!

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Excellent. Anything else?

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Cheese, a slice of cheese.

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I'm looking forward to this.

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Goat's cheese. Monmouthshire cawl with some goat cheese and bread.

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Monmouthshire's finest, fabulous.

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'Now it's the moment of truth.

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'Will the locals approve of our Monmouthshire cawl?'

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-Hello.

-Hello. Thank you.

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Who's got knives and forks?

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There you are. Come in, come on.

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Right, there's no pressure. What do you think?

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-Absolutely delicious.

-Very good.

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-Lovely.

-Wouldn't have thought it was that simple.

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-Have you had cawl before?

-I haven't, it won't be the last time.

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Gone. Yeah, it didn't touch the sides!

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What do you think?

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Lovely, really nice.

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It tastes like really simple stew, but it's well seasoned.

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That seems to have done well.

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Did you like it? Yeah?

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What was your favourite bit about it?

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-The lamb.

-The lamb.

-It tastes like it's full of flavour.

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Marjorie, font of all knowledge.

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-It's as good as my gran used to make. Marvellous.

-Oh, come here!

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Even our Marjorie thought the version of cawl was authentic.

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Next though, an even bigger challenge is around the corner.

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As always, we're taking one of the county's top chefs

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in their restaurant, using local ingredients,

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to see who can best define the taste of the region.

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It will be up to local diners in a blind tasting to decide whose dish

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best represents the true flavours of Monmouthshire.

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Our opponent today is Stephen Terry,

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the chef and owner of the Hardwick in Abergavenny.

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Stephen has previously worked with the likes of

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Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux Jnr.

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The Hardwick won a national award for its use of local produce

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and has been named the Welsh Restaurant of the Year.

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My inspiration comes from the produce that I can source.

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And in Monmouthshire, I am spoilt for choice.

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Local free-range chickens from Chepstow.

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We have fantastic goat from three fields back that way.

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And pork, everyone breeds pork.

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I like to put food on a plate so halfway through eating it,

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it resembles half of what arrived in the first place.

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We don't go for big towers of things,

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because you have to deconstruct the tower to eat it.

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Then it's all over the plate, it looks like a dog's dinner.

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To be awarded the Good Food Guide's Best Use Of Local Produce award,

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throughout the UK, I was blown away by that.

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We just got a letter in the post!

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We got that award from just doing what we do.

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And that is because, being in Monmouthshire, we have the produce.

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To take on the hairy bikers today, my taste of Monmouthshire is

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pressed local pork belly with black pudding,

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roasted sea scallops, broad beans and fennel.

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Have it!

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-Hello.

-Hello, guys.

-How are you, man?

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-Nice to see you.

-Lovely to meet you.

-I'm Dave.

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Now, there are a panel of nine tasters waiting outside,

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just ready to sample the fruits of your pans.

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Dude, headline your dish.

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We've got today Monmouthshire belly of pork, pressed with black pudding,

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with roasted sea scallops, fennel and broad beans.

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It's all the things I like.

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This is a Gloucester old spot pork.

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What's important is that we reserve the layer of fat underneath the skin.

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And that's what we use to moisturise the layers as we build it back together.

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Because the dish, otherwise it would be dry.

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And also, as you know yourselves, fat is flavour.

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So we need to get as much of that in there as possible,

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cos that's going to build the dish up.

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Me and him are a cannibal's dream, you know! It's true.

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It goes into a small roasting tray with a little bit of water,

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a few vegetables if you like, tin foil.

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Once that has been cooked for 12 hours, we have the end result.

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That smells brilliant.

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That protects it because sometimes tin foil breaks down.

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-You've lost nothing of the flavour there.

-No.

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-That is unbelievably wonderful.

-So that was water when it went in.

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So you can see it produces a pork stock we can use in other things. Have a little taste.

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There is no vegetables or anything, that is just water with the pork.

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-That's unbelievable.

-It just makes its own stock.

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Just remove the top layer of skin.

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As I run my finger along there,

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this is the layer of fat that I want to keep.

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You can squeeze it through your hand. There is flavour in that.

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-It's first class.

-It's like butter, isn't it?

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So you remove that. That's that fat, we'll keep that there.

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This is the first top layer, so work it off like so.

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It is sort of a man's dish, I suppose.

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Generally speaking, more men tend to order this than ladies.

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So once we've it like so, get some of the fat on there, like that.

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This is HG Edwards black pudding, that is fantastic.

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Sorts it out for me. Remove the black pudding from the skin.

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Slice the black pudding. One of the things I always find,

0:16:470:16:50

especially showing people something different, they think

0:16:500:16:54

"Oh, God, I'll never be able to produce that."

0:16:540:16:56

When you do it at home, no-one will tell you off.

0:16:560:16:58

Are you deliberately going against the grain with this piece?

0:16:580:17:02

Yeah, you can go either way. It's like the MDF of the pork world.

0:17:020:17:05

Once all that belly pork is used up with the black pudding,

0:17:050:17:08

we're just going to wrap it up in the Clingfilm, like so.

0:17:080:17:13

And then that'll be pressed overnight,

0:17:130:17:16

so what you end up with is this. It's pressed.

0:17:160:17:18

It's the pork fat that solidifies,

0:17:180:17:20

acts as the glue that keeps it all together.

0:17:200:17:22

You could do it between two baking trays, couldn't you?

0:17:220:17:25

And half a pint of water on the top.

0:17:250:17:27

As long as the Clingfilm's nice and tight,

0:17:270:17:30

it won't go anywhere, it'll hold it.

0:17:300:17:33

It would need a minimum of six hours, really.

0:17:330:17:35

-I bet it tastes nice, though, now, doesn't it?

-It's amazing.

0:17:350:17:39

So we come through the belly pork and remove the Clingfilm.

0:17:390:17:43

-That's fabulous. They chorused.

-Then slice it like that,

0:17:430:17:47

and then when you see it on the plate it's like that,

0:17:470:17:49

but with breadcrumbs around it.

0:17:490:17:51

-So, there's no problem in reheating the cooked pork?

-No.

0:17:510:17:56

That's them finished. That's the finished breadcrumb version.

0:17:560:17:59

We just pass it through a tray of flour,

0:17:590:18:01

make sure it's all coated in flour, through the egg

0:18:010:18:04

and through the breadcrumbs. That's how you breadcrumb.

0:18:040:18:06

That's the result. So that's the belly pork element.

0:18:060:18:09

Obviously, we've got the scallop element. So these are live.

0:18:090:18:13

I use a knife to separate the shell there,

0:18:130:18:17

just to break the little bond down there.

0:18:170:18:19

And then just pass the knife through there which now exposes the scallop.

0:18:190:18:23

This is the bit I'm going to use today,

0:18:230:18:24

this is the actual scallop meat here.

0:18:240:18:26

Pass the knife underneath.

0:18:260:18:29

That comes out like so.

0:18:300:18:32

Once it's like that, we need to remove the skirt

0:18:320:18:35

and the roe and this little mucky bag thing.

0:18:350:18:38

And I do that, there's a little muscle on the side here

0:18:380:18:40

and there's a slight line coming down there.

0:18:400:18:43

I rub my thumb, work it down between the two...he says...

0:18:430:18:48

like so. And then put that one around and it all sorts of...

0:18:480:18:53

comes away like this.

0:18:530:18:54

-A pure nugget of meat.

-Yeah.

0:18:540:18:57

Quickly rinse these off.

0:18:570:18:58

So, I'm gonna pop those on there and pat them dry.

0:19:000:19:03

-Look at the sheen on them.

-I could just eat those now.

0:19:050:19:09

Monmouthshire broad beans and some fantastic fennel.

0:19:090:19:13

I'm gonna pop some of those and blanch them in a bit of water.

0:19:130:19:16

There's a few there I managed to get done earlier.

0:19:160:19:18

Take this top off here,

0:19:180:19:20

slice it really thinly.

0:19:200:19:22

I remember having a salad once with just loads of this fennel

0:19:220:19:25

with lime juice and a bit of lemon zest and a carpaccio of swordfish.

0:19:250:19:29

It was just amazing. I thought, what a good idea.

0:19:290:19:33

I'm just gonna put more dressing on there.

0:19:330:19:36

The dressing is extra virgin olive oil. We use a Greek olive oil.

0:19:360:19:40

-Yeah.

-With Amalfi lemon juice.

-Oh!

0:19:400:19:44

-Do you want to just blanch those for me?

-Yeah, sure.

0:19:440:19:47

How long would you blanch the broad beans for?

0:19:470:19:49

A couple of minutes, I mean, those are tiny.

0:19:490:19:52

You want a bit of a bite to them.

0:19:520:19:53

Look at that. It looks almost like spaghetti.

0:19:530:19:56

It looks like grey tagliatelle, doesn't it? Brilliant.

0:19:560:19:59

So that's that. Broad beans can come out about now.

0:19:590:20:03

-That's out, chef.

-There we are.

0:20:030:20:06

Put cold water in there to cool them down.

0:20:060:20:08

-Thanks, chef.

-Make it a little easier so we don't burn our fingers.

0:20:080:20:13

Yeah, that's good. A little bit of that dressing.

0:20:130:20:17

And the other thing I'm going to put on here is sea salt.

0:20:170:20:19

A little bit of that on there.

0:20:190:20:21

What's that for, chef? Deep-fat frying?

0:20:210:20:23

-Do you know what they're for?

-No.

-Tell him what it says.

0:20:230:20:26

-Ah! Onion glasses, dude.

-Really?

-Yeah!

0:20:260:20:29

So all we need to do now is deep-fry these pork portions.

0:20:290:20:33

Place them on there. It is quite a thin crispy coating, so to speak.

0:20:330:20:37

-So pop those on there.

-Ah.

0:20:370:20:41

You may have noticed that chef has asbestos fingers.

0:20:410:20:45

At home, don't do it because you'll burn yourself.

0:20:450:20:47

There's not a lot of fat on there. I'll just pass the knife like that.

0:20:470:20:52

So there we have a little cross section, there.

0:20:520:20:55

Just like that for two seconds.

0:20:550:20:57

And a tiny bit of salt on each one just there as it goes in.

0:20:570:21:01

Pop that in the oven there.

0:21:010:21:02

Top shelf. It is hot, isn't it?

0:21:020:21:04

-It is hot.

-I've got a non-stick pan here,

0:21:040:21:06

so I don't need to put loads of oil on it.

0:21:060:21:09

Just toss the scallops in a little bit of the oil.

0:21:090:21:12

Did you season the scallops first?

0:21:120:21:14

I'm a big fan of seasoning them afterwards.

0:21:140:21:16

You could season them now, but where the salt makes contact

0:21:160:21:20

with the raw shellfish, it immediately starts to draw moisture.

0:21:200:21:24

It would almost blemish the scallop,

0:21:240:21:26

so I'd rather put it on after when it's sealed at the edge.

0:21:260:21:29

Because they haven't been soaked, and these are the best scallops

0:21:290:21:32

that money can buy, there's no water diluting the flavour.

0:21:320:21:36

And also when you cook them, the caramelisation, that's 100% natural

0:21:360:21:39

just from the natural sugars inside the scallops.

0:21:390:21:42

Three lots of fennel for each plate.

0:21:420:21:44

These are ready now. A little bit of salt on them,

0:21:460:21:50

set them on top like so.

0:21:500:21:52

Broad beans, they're all seasoned.

0:21:520:21:54

Salad leaves, we'll pop them in the middle.

0:21:540:21:56

A little bit of nice peppery rocket and slightly peppery watercress.

0:21:560:21:59

Your craft is just fabulous.

0:21:590:22:03

I think, anyway.

0:22:030:22:05

That's just Bramley apples cooked down to a puree

0:22:050:22:08

and a little bit of English mustard.

0:22:080:22:11

Finish with a bit of rapeseed oil.

0:22:110:22:13

-Balsamic.

-That's an absolute delight.

0:22:140:22:17

So, here we have Monmouthshire pressed pork belly

0:22:170:22:20

with black pudding, roasted sea scallops, fennel and broad beans.

0:22:200:22:23

I hate you!

0:22:230:22:25

I quite like you guys!

0:22:260:22:28

-That is beautiful.

-It is.

0:22:290:22:31

Let's just hope it tastes horrible.

0:22:310:22:34

-I think that highly unlikely.

-So do I.

0:22:340:22:37

-Fantastic.

-Oh...

0:22:400:22:43

You know that little zap of apple sauce has a really nice bit of

0:22:430:22:47

acidity that just pushes through the black pudding. Perfectly balanced.

0:22:470:22:51

-Fennel and the scallops with that dressing.

-Oh...

0:22:510:22:54

I think this is Monmouthshire on a plate, but it's modern food.

0:22:540:22:58

It is pretty perfect, isn't it?

0:22:580:23:00

Right.

0:23:000:23:01

Should we get on then, cos I think we've got quite a lot to do.

0:23:010:23:04

It's all very well what we think, but the real judges are the locals

0:23:040:23:07

who will decide whose dish is best in the blind tasting coming up.

0:23:070:23:11

We've got a real challenge on our hands

0:23:130:23:15

to compete with Stephen's dish,

0:23:150:23:17

but we've heard about a small producer

0:23:170:23:20

that might just be the answer.

0:23:200:23:21

Tucked away in an idyllic corner of Monmouthshire

0:23:210:23:24

is Trealy Farm Charcuterie.

0:23:240:23:26

Set up by three mates who are obsessed about great cured meat.

0:23:260:23:31

They source only free-range traditional breeds from local farms,

0:23:310:23:35

but they use techniques they've learned from all over Europe

0:23:350:23:38

to produce award-winning meats.

0:23:380:23:40

One of the owners, James, is showing us around.

0:23:400:23:43

This is a salami hanging room.

0:23:430:23:46

We've got a lot of different types.

0:23:460:23:48

Shut the door, dude. Me and Dave'll be fine.

0:23:480:23:51

This is fabulous.

0:23:510:23:53

We've got venison salami, wild boar and beef.

0:23:530:23:56

How did you learn to do all this?

0:23:560:23:58

Well, we went around speaking to lots of little old men

0:23:580:24:02

in mountain-top villages in Spain, Italy, Germany, Sardinia, France.

0:24:020:24:07

So, you bring your skills back to Wales,

0:24:070:24:09

a Welsh business, using Welsh products.

0:24:090:24:11

All local meat, cos we've got such great pigs in Britain.

0:24:110:24:14

Probably better than a lot of what they're using on the continent,

0:24:140:24:18

perfect for this sort of stuff.

0:24:180:24:20

-Charcuterie really is the art of preserving meat.

-It is.

0:24:200:24:23

And in that, you can have flavours and textures.

0:24:230:24:25

And it's like a whole palate of food has grown out of it.

0:24:250:24:28

Anything that's not fresh meat.

0:24:280:24:30

When I was about 12, I had my first salami.

0:24:300:24:33

And I had a friend, a little girl whose dad was Polish.

0:24:330:24:36

In my town, there's nothing like this.

0:24:360:24:38

I can remember tasting my first salami,

0:24:380:24:40

thinking it was the best thing I'd ever tasted.

0:24:400:24:43

Hams, loins and bellies.

0:24:430:24:47

Oh, this is the big boys.

0:24:470:24:48

You can always tell a person's personality by the fridge.

0:24:480:24:51

Yours is fairly impressive.

0:24:510:24:53

'It's time for a masterclass from the butcher of the team, John.'

0:24:550:24:58

-What's this cut here?

-This is a top rump.

0:24:580:25:01

We use this piece cos you can get two nice

0:25:010:25:03

really lean muscles from it for making bresaola.

0:25:030:25:06

That's the dry cured beef, isn't it? It's beautiful.

0:25:060:25:09

Thin slices on your plate.

0:25:090:25:10

I'll trim it up for you now.

0:25:100:25:12

The butchery in charcuterie is a bit different

0:25:120:25:14

-because we do all seam butchery.

-What is seam butchering?

0:25:140:25:17

It's actually breaking the meat down by muscle,

0:25:170:25:21

rather than cutting straight through into joints.

0:25:210:25:24

These two nice solid muscles,

0:25:240:25:27

once they're pressed they come out nice and round,

0:25:270:25:31

so we can get a good shape to it.

0:25:310:25:34

Next up, it's Graham and the curing.

0:25:340:25:36

This is our bresaola spices that use.

0:25:360:25:38

I dunno if you want to have a whiff of that.

0:25:380:25:41

There are cloves in there, rosemary and muscovado sugar.

0:25:410:25:44

It's our own recipe. Put these dry ingredients into your salt

0:25:440:25:47

and make sure they're really well mixed in.

0:25:470:25:50

-All of it?

-Yep. All of it.

0:25:500:25:52

That's quite difficult for the salt to penetrate.

0:25:520:25:54

What I want you to do is to give it a stab.

0:25:540:25:56

Think shower curtain and Hitchcock!

0:25:560:25:59

Really rub the mixture in,

0:26:020:26:03

and make sure it's rubbed into all of the crevices.

0:26:030:26:06

I'd really love to come on a curing holiday.

0:26:060:26:09

-Vac packs!

-If you stuff your meat right into the bottom there

0:26:090:26:13

and try to push it all the way down as much as you can.

0:26:130:26:16

It draws the salt into the product

0:26:200:26:22

and you get an equalisation between, you know.

0:26:220:26:24

This has been in the vac pack for ten days, this is the next stage on.

0:26:240:26:28

What you want is even-drying maturing throughout.

0:26:280:26:32

So, we use an intestine, a beef bone.

0:26:320:26:35

You can see it flakes quite well.

0:26:350:26:38

So what you need to do is pull this over the end quite a lot.

0:26:380:26:43

It's like Nora Batty's tights!

0:26:430:26:46

Push your bresaola, push it right through.

0:26:460:26:49

-That's it, I've got it.

-Now we'll cut this off.

0:26:490:26:52

So, the same process with that.

0:26:550:26:57

-If you put it over and pull it all up.

-Ah!

0:26:570:27:01

Because the netting is elasticated,

0:27:060:27:10

it will dry back with the product, it'll go back with the product

0:27:100:27:13

so you won't get any air between the bum and the product.

0:27:130:27:16

There it is, me first bit of charcuterie!

0:27:160:27:19

Our very own bresaola needed to be pressed and dried,

0:27:200:27:23

but James had something made for us

0:27:230:27:25

to sample along with a whole range of other meat treats.

0:27:250:27:28

OK. So, we'll have a go at that bresaola that you're holding.

0:27:280:27:32

It's been dried about three, four weeks.

0:27:320:27:35

That's about as much as we'd ever dry it.

0:27:350:27:37

-It's like tissue paper.

-It is.

0:27:370:27:40

Some people like it like that.

0:27:400:27:42

-It's fabulous.

-Such a small amount of meat, with such an intense flavour.

0:27:420:27:47

Another thing about charcuterie, you use every part of the animal.

0:27:470:27:50

This is a pig cheek.

0:27:500:27:51

Hot smoked and cured.

0:27:510:27:54

Here's one we roasted up for you to slice up.

0:27:540:27:57

Unctuous is the word for this, unctuous.

0:27:570:28:00

Oh, that is good.

0:28:020:28:04

Oh, oh! That just makes you giggle.

0:28:040:28:07

It's making me lips stick together.

0:28:070:28:09

That is awesome.

0:28:090:28:11

Call it black pudding, call it boudin noir,

0:28:110:28:14

invent a new name for it, but...

0:28:140:28:16

Let's call it boudin Welsh.

0:28:160:28:18

That's been really lightly heated through.

0:28:180:28:22

-Hardly been cooked on at all.

-Dude!

0:28:220:28:25

This is, and I mean it, this is the nicest black pudding I've eaten.

0:28:250:28:30

-Really?

-There's a sweetness to it, it's absolutely gorgeous.

0:28:300:28:33

Mm, that is really good.

0:28:330:28:37

How about having a slice of pancetta,

0:28:370:28:39

the belly version of an air-dried ham, basically.

0:28:390:28:43

That was a happy pig.

0:28:430:28:44

Oh, dude. Definitely didn't expect to taste anything like that.

0:28:440:28:48

This is some of the best charcuterie we've ever tasted.

0:28:480:28:50

It is, without a doubt. That's not for effect. It absolutely is.

0:28:500:28:54

I think it would be wonderful to turn this into a meal.

0:28:540:28:57

You know, I mean, you've done most of the work for us.

0:28:570:29:00

James, we will do our absolute utmost to make it sing.

0:29:000:29:04

Cos I tell you what, it's got a loud voice as it is.

0:29:040:29:07

Making the bresaola was a real experience,

0:29:070:29:10

but it's the piggy products that we want to use

0:29:100:29:13

for our cook-off dish.

0:29:130:29:14

We'll roast a smoked pig's cheek, and serve it on pickled cabbage.

0:29:140:29:18

We'll wrap cured ham in crispy pancetta

0:29:180:29:20

and pair Welsh boudin noir with sausages,

0:29:200:29:22

served up with caramelised apples and onions.

0:29:220:29:25

To complete the dish,

0:29:250:29:26

we're in search of a very historic taste of Monmouthshire.

0:29:260:29:29

Amongst the steep and lofty cliffs of the Wye Valley,

0:29:310:29:35

rises the imposing Tintern Abbey.

0:29:350:29:38

Monks from the abbey planted vineyards and made mead here

0:29:380:29:41

from as early as the 12th century.

0:29:410:29:43

Today in the shadow of the spectacular ruins,

0:29:430:29:45

Judith and Colin Dudley

0:29:450:29:47

are continuing the tradition at Parva Farm vineyard.

0:29:470:29:50

I didn't expect to see a vineyard in Wales.

0:29:500:29:54

There aren't many of us, I think there's about 20 altogether.

0:29:540:29:57

It's... not an ideal place for vines, I suppose you could say.

0:29:570:30:01

Perhaps a bit wet sometimes.

0:30:010:30:03

-Well drained, though, it's a steep hill!

-Oh, yeah.

0:30:030:30:07

Judith, what's the history of wine-making

0:30:070:30:09

and vineyards in this part of Wales?

0:30:090:30:11

We like to think that there was a vineyard here

0:30:110:30:13

when the monks had the abbey.

0:30:130:30:15

Tintern Abbey is only just across the hill there.

0:30:150:30:17

This vineyard was actually planted in 1979.

0:30:170:30:21

We came here in 1996.

0:30:210:30:23

-And you make mead?

-Yes, we do.

0:30:230:30:25

With the wine that you produce.

0:30:250:30:27

The traditional mead is honey and water fermented together.

0:30:270:30:31

Things like wine and cider-based meads

0:30:310:30:34

probably came about because in the old days,

0:30:340:30:36

people tended to drink alcohol rather than water,

0:30:360:30:38

because the water wasn't very safe to drink.

0:30:380:30:41

-Can we have a taste of your mead?

-You can indeed, yes.

0:30:410:30:43

This mead was actually made in 2007.

0:30:460:30:49

We find it best when it's been in the bottle for a couple of years.

0:30:490:30:53

-It's a spicy mead.

-Oh, yes!

0:30:530:30:55

-Cinnamon, cloves, ginger, things like that.

-That is lovely.

0:30:550:30:59

It is quite dry at first, not a sweet, sticky concoction.

0:30:590:31:04

The spices are fab.

0:31:040:31:06

The honey used by Judith and Colin is supplied by local beekeeper

0:31:060:31:10

Richard Liddle, who keeps two hives at the vineyard.

0:31:100:31:13

How much does the honey contribute to the mead?

0:31:130:31:15

Obviously, sort of, half of it really, isn't it?

0:31:150:31:19

When we started making it, we didn't have any beehives on the farm.

0:31:190:31:23

I knew Richard made honey,

0:31:230:31:25

so I asked him if he could supply some local honey.

0:31:250:31:28

He suggested having beehives here. He looks after them.

0:31:280:31:31

Of course they have all the natural wildflowers in this area.

0:31:310:31:35

So it's mostly wildflower honey. It definitely gives the flavour to it.

0:31:350:31:39

There is a floral end to it on the palate.

0:31:390:31:42

There is. You get the spices first, I think, but at the end

0:31:420:31:45

you're left with the honey flavour, aren't you?

0:31:450:31:48

Yes, that to me is Monmouthshire in a cup.

0:31:480:31:52

I think this could just give us the edge.

0:31:520:31:55

Cheers!

0:31:550:31:56

So, guys, as they say here in Monmouthshire, what's appertaining?

0:31:580:32:01

Well it's a celebration of Welsh charcuterie, we have a roasted

0:32:010:32:05

smoked pig's cheek, served with a lightly pickled cabbage.

0:32:050:32:08

Cured ham, wrapped in pancetta on some tiny buttered beans.

0:32:080:32:12

Some Welsh boudin noir, and Monmouthshire sausages,

0:32:120:32:15

serve with caramelised onions and apples.

0:32:150:32:17

And mead and thyme jelly to bring it all together.

0:32:170:32:20

But, will the local diners think our dish is good enough

0:32:200:32:23

to beat Stephen in the blind tasting?

0:32:230:32:25

I think mead conjures up Henry VIII or something like that.

0:32:250:32:29

He could have almost been a third hairy biker.

0:32:290:32:32

It's monks, it's monks, dude.

0:32:320:32:34

But this mead is spiced.

0:32:340:32:35

-It's slightly dry.

-This is a beautiful, beautiful cheek.

0:32:350:32:39

This is what used to be called a bath chap.

0:32:390:32:42

-Absolutely.

-It's cured and smoked.

0:32:420:32:44

We're putting it in the oven for about an hour at about 160.

0:32:440:32:48

-It's a pig fest!

-What we're going to do is a lightly pickled cabbage.

0:32:480:32:52

We've got some white wine vinegar.

0:32:520:32:57

Some sugar, allspice.

0:32:570:32:59

Just a little bit with a few sour seeds

0:32:590:33:01

and then some water.

0:33:010:33:03

Then what we're gonna do is bring that to the boil.

0:33:030:33:06

It's amazing, you think of all the things that we eat every day

0:33:060:33:10

with sugar and acidity in,

0:33:100:33:11

all the pickling things, it's enough to make your mouth water.

0:33:110:33:14

It's that thing about sweet and sour.

0:33:140:33:16

COUGHING

0:33:160:33:18

You know when you catch...

0:33:180:33:20

Do you know when the vinegar catches the back of your throat?!

0:33:200:33:24

When reducing vinegar, you normally get the new boys

0:33:240:33:27

-and say "smell that". It knocks them out.

-That'd be me!

0:33:270:33:31

That has to simmer for ten minutes.

0:33:310:33:33

-Great. What's next?

-The jelly.

0:33:330:33:36

First off, leaves of gelatine.

0:33:360:33:38

Break them up into the bowl

0:33:380:33:42

and top with cold water.

0:33:420:33:44

It won't take long to go flaccid.

0:33:440:33:47

250ml of chicken stock.

0:33:470:33:49

That's the base of the jelly.

0:33:490:33:51

Two tablespoons of mead

0:33:510:33:53

and a tablespoon of wine.

0:33:530:33:56

While it's heating up, I'll strip some thyme.

0:33:560:34:00

See, that gelatine has gone sloppy.

0:34:030:34:05

Now we can just put that into the pan.

0:34:050:34:08

That'll melt down. Give it a stir.

0:34:080:34:10

It's a fantastic thing, setting a few things up,

0:34:100:34:12

it adds an interest to the plate.

0:34:120:34:14

While Dave's chopping that, all I'll do is put butter into a pan

0:34:140:34:20

and about a teaspoon of muscovado sugar.

0:34:200:34:25

I'm just gonna add the onions to it and just let them go.

0:34:250:34:28

Nice and gently. I don't want too much.

0:34:280:34:31

All of those onions, just coated. Right, Dave, I'm off.

0:34:310:34:35

Put in a heap of chopped thyme.

0:34:350:34:36

I've got these little dishes I'll just line with Clingfilm.

0:34:360:34:42

And pour.

0:34:420:34:44

-Put that in the fridge.

-Put it in the fridge.

-Yeah.

0:34:460:34:49

Put those in there.

0:34:490:34:51

-Dude, can you pass that bowl over?

-Yeah!

-So I can...put that away.

0:34:510:34:55

Is that served at room temperature?

0:34:550:34:58

Yeah, we don't want it mega hot.

0:34:580:34:59

Do you want Clingfilm?

0:34:590:35:01

That would be great.

0:35:010:35:03

All of the steam then will drop back in the cabbage.

0:35:030:35:07

Yeah, yeah.

0:35:070:35:08

I'm gonna put the sausages on nice and slow, Dave.

0:35:080:35:11

Yeah.

0:35:110:35:13

-Do you prick them or not?

-No. No. Cos I'm gonna fry them.

0:35:130:35:17

It's a bit of an urban myth, that whole pricking sausages.

0:35:170:35:20

Oh, yes. Don't prick your sausages. You want that to cook.

0:35:200:35:23

This is your pancetta crisps, they look fantastic.

0:35:230:35:27

Nice textural difference, contrast.

0:35:270:35:29

Put that in there like that.

0:35:290:35:31

More paper on top.

0:35:310:35:33

Then a baking tray on top of that.

0:35:330:35:35

-Fabulous.

-Right, on the top. Put the sausage in the middle shelf.

0:35:350:35:40

I put it on the bottom, dude. Yeah, just to slowly roast.

0:35:400:35:43

Look at this, man, it's starting to go as we wanted.

0:35:430:35:46

-It's beautiful.

-Amazing.

0:35:460:35:49

How fantastic is that?

0:35:490:35:50

That's coming out, that's doing what we want it to do.

0:35:500:35:53

The onions are browning off.

0:35:530:35:55

Let me get the apples on now.

0:35:550:35:57

Butter, splash of oil.

0:35:570:35:59

The apples will caramelise,

0:35:590:36:00

but I don't mind if these end up being like toffee apples.

0:36:000:36:04

I've got Granny Smiths, they're pretty sour,

0:36:050:36:08

but I'll put lemon juice on to keep them fresh looking.

0:36:080:36:11

A little bit of sugar. Put the apples in.

0:36:110:36:14

So you've got the cabbage, apples, all on the go,

0:36:140:36:17

the sausages cooking, the pancetta cooking,

0:36:170:36:20

so what's the deal with this black pudding and this ham here?

0:36:200:36:23

-Ah well!

-That's next.

0:36:230:36:25

Look at this.

0:36:250:36:26

Come on!

0:36:260:36:28

-Boudin noir?

-We're both northerners.

0:36:280:36:30

We love our black pudding, but we've gotta admit we were blown away with this.

0:36:300:36:33

It's different to the black pudding you use,

0:36:330:36:36

-yours was with the fat bits.

-Yeah.

0:36:360:36:38

You're doing the butter beans, can you get on with the ham?

0:36:380:36:41

No worries, dude.

0:36:410:36:42

This is one of James' hams.

0:36:420:36:44

It's made with rosemary and thyme.

0:36:440:36:45

It's brilliant. I want this quite thin.

0:36:450:36:49

This may seem wasteful,

0:36:490:36:51

but you can use the rest of the ham in a sandwich.

0:36:510:36:55

-How's the apples?

-They're looking canny mega.

0:36:550:36:58

I'm wrapping my rondelle in the pancetta.

0:36:580:37:01

-Is that going to stand, do you want a cocktail stick?

-Yes. I think so.

0:37:010:37:04

I wouldn't want it to go wrong for you,

0:37:040:37:06

and you not win because of the cocktail stick.

0:37:060:37:09

Dude, he's trying to psyche you out. Ignore him, dude, ignore him.

0:37:090:37:12

Shall we look at the pancetta?

0:37:120:37:13

Dave, make space, quick, dude!

0:37:150:37:19

Right, fingers crossed.

0:37:220:37:24

Oh, yes.

0:37:260:37:28

-What are we reckoning?

-Oh-ho-ho!

0:37:280:37:31

That is stiffer than a crocodile with rigour mortis!

0:37:310:37:34

I've just fried off and sweated off some shallots.

0:37:340:37:37

I'm just gonna add a little bit of garlic to that.

0:37:370:37:41

I'm not gonna put too much garlic in.

0:37:410:37:43

Try not to burn it, cos if it burns, it goes bitter and awful.

0:37:430:37:48

The beans are gonna be tossed in that

0:37:480:37:50

just to warm through. I'm just gonna do that now, Dave.

0:37:500:37:52

Butterbeans, again, is fantastic with any pork products.

0:37:520:37:56

-I think we should get the pig out.

-Oh, yes.

0:37:560:37:58

That is first-class, isn't it?

0:37:580:38:00

I'm going to use this ring here,

0:38:000:38:02

-I'm gonna start searing off the rondelles.

-Great.

0:38:020:38:06

Obviously, they're already cooked so you want to caramelise them.

0:38:060:38:09

Yeah, I'm gonna try to seal this edge.

0:38:090:38:11

We're gonna add some lemon zest, as well.

0:38:110:38:13

-Are you putting thyme in there?

-Yes.

0:38:130:38:15

The pancetta is wrapped around.

0:38:150:38:17

-It is almost Clingfilm round the top of the rondelles.

-Lovely.

0:38:170:38:21

Give us those black puddings.

0:38:210:38:22

-Yeah.

-The boudin noir.

0:38:220:38:24

We could almost put them on that tin, couldn't we?

0:38:240:38:26

Are you guys worried about putting this together

0:38:260:38:28

with so many elements coming together at the same time?

0:38:280:38:31

-Oh, yeah.

-No.

0:38:310:38:32

This could be a busy plate, I think.

0:38:320:38:35

-This is the pickled cabbage, the Welsh sauerkraut.

-Look at that.

0:38:350:38:40

-That's awesome.

-That's amazing.

0:38:400:38:41

That's nice, look.

0:38:410:38:43

They're glistening.

0:38:430:38:46

Butterbeans...

0:38:470:38:49

This is the caramelised onions.

0:38:520:38:54

It would be a laugh if someone were a vegetarian.

0:38:540:38:57

They're lost on all accounts, aren't they?

0:38:570:39:00

Right, this is the jelly.

0:39:000:39:02

All you want is little cubes.

0:39:020:39:04

This is really like your chutney.

0:39:040:39:06

This is the Welsh pancetta.

0:39:060:39:08

It goes mega crispy, just cut in shards.

0:39:080:39:11

Are you happy with that, guys? What's the name of the dish?

0:39:110:39:14

It's a celebration of Monmouthshire charcuterie...

0:39:140:39:17

With a mead and thyme jelly.

0:39:170:39:20

Fair play. There is so much to choose from.

0:39:200:39:23

-The pig's face first.

-Oh, great.

0:39:230:39:25

With some cabbage.

0:39:250:39:27

Get in there.

0:39:270:39:29

A little hint of vinegar, very nice.

0:39:320:39:34

Beautiful, unctuous texture to the pig's cheek.

0:39:340:39:37

Lots of fat, a fantastic delivery of flavour.

0:39:370:39:39

Mead comes in, little sweet delivery at the end. Very nice.

0:39:390:39:42

So far, so good, dude.

0:39:420:39:44

The pancetta works nicely, a slight smokiness there.

0:39:440:39:48

The beans are fabulous. Like little parcels of mashed potatoes

0:39:480:39:51

in these little silk robes, beautiful.

0:39:510:39:52

Apples, pork, black pudding, boudin noir and onions

0:39:520:39:56

is a no-brainer. This has been very skilfully put together.

0:39:560:39:59

It's very good.

0:39:590:40:00

You guys, as far as I'm concerned, have produced

0:40:000:40:03

an incredibly high standard, first-class, fantastic dish.

0:40:030:40:06

-Thank you very much.

-Very good.

0:40:060:40:08

-Thanks, Stephen.

-Thanks very much.

0:40:080:40:10

It's crunch time. The diners here will taste both dishes,

0:40:100:40:12

but without any idea who cooked which.

0:40:120:40:14

First up is Stephen's pork belly and black pudding,

0:40:140:40:17

served with seared scallops.

0:40:170:40:19

The scallop for me was a little bit undercooked for my personal taste.

0:40:230:40:27

I'm surprised to see the scallops there

0:40:270:40:30

because I don't associate scallops with Monmouthshire at all,

0:40:300:40:33

but I'll always each scallops anywhere.

0:40:330:40:35

Belly pork can sometimes be a little greasy, but this wasn't.

0:40:350:40:39

It was very nice and crispy on the outside.

0:40:390:40:42

I enjoyed the black pudding

0:40:420:40:43

running through it which made it a little moister.

0:40:430:40:46

The fennel, the lemon was absolutely beautiful. Tender, succulent.

0:40:460:40:51

Monmouthshire is a livestock-producing county,

0:40:510:40:54

so the scallops were a surprise.

0:40:540:40:55

The pork, I really enjoyed.

0:40:550:40:58

I'm not a lover of black pudding.

0:40:580:40:59

In fact it is something that I would never choose,

0:40:590:41:02

but it went really well with the pork.

0:41:020:41:04

I really enjoyed it very much.

0:41:040:41:06

Some mixed reviews there. What will they think of our dish?

0:41:070:41:10

Fingers crossed.

0:41:100:41:12

It was a much heartier looking meal.

0:41:120:41:14

I can imagine it would appeal to the farmer type in this area.

0:41:140:41:18

You've got pig on a plate, everything but the squeal,

0:41:180:41:21

which I thought was excellent.

0:41:210:41:23

The pork cheek was very nice.

0:41:230:41:25

Something that I haven't eaten before in Monmouthshire,

0:41:250:41:29

only in Italy, previously.

0:41:290:41:30

Loved the sweetness of the onions

0:41:300:41:32

with the pork sausage - it was very good.

0:41:320:41:36

The mead and thyme jelly,

0:41:360:41:37

I had no idea what that was doing there. It did nothing for me.

0:41:370:41:41

It tasted a bit like mouth wash, I thought.

0:41:410:41:43

I've never had pig's cheek before.

0:41:430:41:45

It was a little bit on the fatty side for some people's taste,

0:41:450:41:48

but I happen to enjoy it. It was lovely.

0:41:480:41:50

Unlike some, I loved the jelly.

0:41:500:41:53

I thought it reflected Monmouthshire on the plate.

0:41:530:41:56

We do have some really good pork producers in the county.

0:41:560:41:59

I think it really identified with Monmouthshire.

0:41:590:42:01

You had pork in three different ways, so ideal.

0:42:010:42:04

Hello, how are you?

0:42:040:42:06

Well, thank you so much for coming.

0:42:100:42:12

-We've had a wonderful time in Monmouthshire.

-We have.

0:42:120:42:15

It's so pretty, isn't it? You are very lucky.

0:42:150:42:17

Now, I'm going to name both dishes.

0:42:170:42:19

I would like you to put your hands up for the dish that you think

0:42:190:42:23

represents Monmouthshire on the plate.

0:42:230:42:25

Could I have a clear show of hands, please,

0:42:250:42:29

for the scallop and belly pork dish?

0:42:290:42:33

One, two, thank you.

0:42:350:42:38

Could I have a clear show of hands, please,

0:42:380:42:43

for the charcuterie.

0:42:430:42:45

One, two, three, four, five, six, seven.

0:42:470:42:51

OK, thanks very much indeed.

0:42:510:42:53

The scallop and belly pork dish was Stephen's.

0:42:530:42:56

The charcuterie dish was ours.

0:42:560:42:59

-Guys, congratulations.

-Thank you very much, it was very, very nice.

0:43:000:43:04

You know, no hard feelings cos I loved your dish.

0:43:040:43:07

I thought it was fantastic.

0:43:070:43:09

I'm already a winner cos I live in Monmouthshire anyway.

0:43:090:43:11

I work with the produce,

0:43:110:43:14

you know, I feel very privileged and honoured to do that.

0:43:140:43:17

I thought your dish was one of the nicest meals I've had for a long time.

0:43:170:43:20

It was perfect. We've learnt a lot.

0:43:200:43:22

-Thank you very much. Thanks, Stephen.

-Thank you very much for having us.

0:43:220:43:25

'Wow! What a victory!

0:43:250:43:27

'Well, we could hardly go wrong with those fantastic meats.'

0:43:270:43:31

'Monmouthshire is a real foodie county, we'll definitely be back.'

0:43:310:43:35

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0:43:420:43:46

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0:43:460:43:49

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