Ynys Manaw, Arfordir Gorllewin Antur y Gorllewin

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-I'm on an incredible journey

-along the west coast of Europe.

-Crikey, what a place!

-My journey began in the south,

-in the Azores and Portugal.

-I've always wanted to swim

-with these.

-I travelled through Spain...

-A lynx, lads, a lynx.

-..France, the Channel Islands...

-..Cornwall and Ireland.

-There's so much more to see before

-I complete my journey in Iceland.

-I'm swimming here...

-..between two continents.

-Constant rhythms are coming

-to the fore during my journey.

-The way something common

-in one country...

-..is rare in another.

-But all these countries

-share one common link.

-That connection is the Atlantic.

-The huge ocean that shapes

-the western landscape...

-..of all the countries.

-The wind whips in

-all the way from America.

-It helps sustain all kinds

-of wildlife, in the sea...

-I have to take great care here.

-There are so many creatures.

-..on land, and in the sky

-above our heads.

-There are birds everywhere.

-I'm on my way to Scotland.

-I'm looking forward

-to experiencing more adventure.

-The Mull of Galloway lighthouse

-is behind me.

-I've reached Scotland.

-This is Scotland's

-most southerly point.

-Ireland is around 25 miles

-across the sea that way.

-This is where my journey

-along Scotland's west coast begins.

-I expect interesting experiences

-and adventures...

-There's another one.

-..frustration...

-Animals can drive you crazy!

-..natural beauty...

-..and fun.

-There are two chicks.

-This promises to be

-a cracker of a journey.

-Fantastic.

-From my starting point

-on the Mull of Galloway...

-..I head about 100 miles north

-to the Knapdale Forest in Argyll.

-Why am I here?

-An animal has been reintroduced

-to the area recently.

-I can't wait to see it in the wild

-- the European beaver.

-Beavers haven't been seen in Wales

-for over 900 years.

-In Scotland, they last swam

-in these lakes 400 years ago.

-Today, in an experiment

-supervised by Rob Needham...

-..twelve beavers from Norway

-have new homes on four lochs here.

-I'll have to wait until tonight

-to spot them...

-..because they're mainly nocturnal.

-Rob is showing me

-the fruits of their labour...

-..an incredible dam

-built from sticks and mud...

-..on the banks of Loch Coille Bharr.

-It's a big dam, Rob.

-It's approximately 30 metres.

-Wow. There's a lot of work

-gone into this.

-Three, four animals.

-It's an ongoing process.

-They'll have worked on this

-since release, so two years.

-Rob's just told me that this dam

-is about 30 metres long.

-It's a metre and a half high

-and it holds the water back here.

-This loch is the size

-of four rugby pitches.

-That's incredible.

-They use different pieces of wood

-for different sections.

-They use one type

-to pack the wall...

-..and another type,

-rowan in this case, I think...

-..to hold the wall back.

-If you look at the way

-they've gnawed through the wood...

-..they have powerful jaws and teeth.

-They only need three bites

-to gnaw their way through this.

-Since all their teeth are sharp...

-..they don't need a chainsaw

-to fell a tree of this size.

-They're very busy foresters.

-It's hard to believe that all this

-work happens in the dead of night.

-We constantly moan

-about losing our wetlands.

-Beavers create perfect wetlands

-for all kinds of creatures.

-Toads, fish, birds, insects.

-It's incredible.

-Beavers didn't disappear because

-they harmed anyone or anything...

-..but because they were hunted

-and killed for their fur.

-Night is drawing in.

-Hopefully, it's an opportunity

-to spot them.

-According to Rob, the best place

-is on the banks of Loch Buic.

-It's a lot smaller

-than Loch Coille Bharr...

-..and there's a convenient path

-along one side.

-There are gaps between the trees

-to see their lodge...

-..and them,

-if they decide to come out.

-I'm going to stand here.

-I can see the lodge

-in the distance.

-It looks like a pile of sticks.

-It's hard to see

-with the sun in my eyes.

-That's on the far side.

-According to Rob,

-they appear around eight o'clock.

-It's 7.30pm.

-I'm going to hang around quietly

-for the next half an hour.

-Despite the shabby appearance

-of this mound of sticks...

-..from the outside...

-..the inside is a cosy

-two-floor cottage...

-..with one room for the beavers

-to clean and dry their fur...

-..and a further area above

-for sleeping or raising their young.

-To stay safe,

-the front door is underwater...

-..to prevent anyone or anything

-seeing them come and go.

-And that's my problem.

-I've been here for half an hour.

-I'm not sure if I saw

-some bubbles in the water...

-..moving that way.

-The beaver's fur is so thick

-when it's in the water.

-It creates bubbles

-and you can see a path of bubbles.

-I'm not sure if I saw one or not.

-I can't see in this sunlight,

-so I'm going to head further along.

-That might mean I won't be able

-to see the lodge on the far side...

-..but if the beavers go anywhere,

-they'll head that way.

-I hope I can see one.

-There's a rock over here,

-so I'll slip in behind it.

-An animal has appeared

-right in front of the lodge.

-It's coming this way.

-I'm not going to speak or move.

-I'm going to stay as still as I can

-in case I scare it away.

-It's gone to the other side

-of the loch.

-I can see it clearly.

-Its nose, eyes and ears

-are right at the top of its head...

-..and they're barely a centimetre

-above the surface.

-If it senses any danger,

-all it has to do is submerge...

-..and disappear out of sight.

-I can see the fur on its face -

-I can see everything.

-Fantastic.

-It's a beautiful evening.

-I've seen a beaver in the wild

-for the first time.

-They're vegetarians.

-They eat plants, tree bark

-and leaves they find in the water.

-They're no threat to fish.

-There's another one,

-there's another one.

-There are two.

-The first one is still feeding

-and another has followed it.

-It's swimming along the water,

-following the other one.

-Both are feeding together,

-side by side.

-I feel so privileged.

-I'm one of the first to see

-these beavers in the wild.

-It's fantastic.

-Sixty miles north of Knapdale

-is the town of Oban...

-..and the banks of Loch Linnhe.

-It's a huge sea loch that runs

-all the way up to Fort William.

-Ben Nevis, Britain's highest peak,

-towers over the town.

-I'm not heading

-for the misty mountains today.

-I'm taking the ferry west

-to the village of Corran.

-There, waiting for me,

-is something rather unexpected.

-I've just stepped off

-the Corran ferry.

-You often think you have

-to visit wild, remote areas...

-..to find special wildlife,

-but that's not true.

-Three pairs of black guillemots

-are nesting under the walkway.

-From afar, it's as if someone

-has put boxes out for them...

-..but they're not nesting boxes.

-Whatever they are,

-they're an ideal home.

-They're pretty - black and white

-with bright red legs.

-When they open their beaks,

-it's red on the inside.

-The same happens in Wales.

-They're rare in Wales, but they nest

-in Holyhead and Fishguard harbours.

-Their numbers

-are on the increase back home.

-There's another one!

-This being the west of Scotland,

-it's no surprise...

-..to find another loch nearby,

-Loch Sunart!

-Nestled in the mountains above it

-is a national treasure.

-The Ariundle Oakwoods.

-It's a beautiful place,

-and far north for such a forest.

-The nearest oak woodland

-in terms of size...

-..is 200 miles south in Cumbria.

-Is this the only reason

-why Ariundle is so revered?

-It's time to don my detective's hat.

-I love exploring oak forests.

-Ancient trees.

-If you look around,

-it seems entirely natural.

-You wouldn't believe it...

-..but man has influenced

-this place for centuries.

-Look at this tree.

-I say tree -

-it has three trunks.

-That suggests

-that it's been trimmed low down...

-..and the wood taken away

-to make charcoal.

-That was used

-in the lead and iron industries.

-By now, the tree is covered

-in lichen, moss and ferns.

-That's what makes Ariundle

-important for naturalists...

-..and appealing to visitors.

-Not so much the trees themselves

-but what grows on and around them.

-The trees and what grows on them

-might not be here at all...

-..without man's intervention

-centuries ago.

-However,

-there has been another partner...

-..helping the process

-of turning this forest...

-..into a treasure trove

-of internationally-important plants.

-This moss is incredible.

-It's very thick. Look at this.

-I could sleep on that.

-Why does it flourish here?

-Because of the influence

-of the Atlantic Ocean.

-Clouds that sweep in from the sea

-collide with the high mountains.

-That produces rain.

-The rain is incredible.

-It's wet here throughout the year.

-You'll seldom have a dry week.

-That's why mosses,

-lichens and ferns flourish.

-Moist oak forests,

-such as this one...

-..were once in evidence

-right along the European coast...

-..in Portugal, Spain, France,

-Ireland, Wales and Scotland.

-Today, we only see small pockets

-of these ancient forests.

-We have comparable oak forests

-in many parts of Wales.

-We might be too familiar with them

-to appreciate their importance...

-..but I can assure you...

-..that Wales has nothing

-to compare to my next destination.

-The next leg of my journey

-is on the horizon - the Hebrides.

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-The Hebrides is a magical name...

-..that refers to dozens, if not

-hundreds, of individual islands.

-The ones I'm visiting...

-..are a group of three

-of the most westerly of them all.

-North Uist and South Uist...

-..and the small island

-between them, Benbecula.

-I've just arrived on Benbecula.

-What a place.

-Birds everywhere.

-I can hear a corncrake.

-There's a redshank nearby

-with its chicks.

-Lapwings, curlews -

-all kinds of birds.

-This brings back

-so many fond memories.

-As a young boy

-of four or five years old...

-..I remember going with Taid

-to the Lleyn Peninsula.

-There were fields

-full of flowers and birds.

-That's all disappeared now,

-but they can still be seen here.

-What's the secret? It's simple.

-Traditional farming.

-Look at these islands from above...

-..and it's easy to see

-why traditional farming suits them.

-A large proportion of this land

-is covered in water.

-As much as one third

-of North Uist is lakes.

-The pastures, peat bogs,

-mountains, lakes and beaches...

-..are home to all kinds of wildlife.

-Some of them choose

-rather odd places to feed.

-This bay is called Stinky Bay,

-and it's a very apt name.

-It does stink here.

-Atlantic storms carry tonnes

-of seaweed onto the beach.

-The seaweed rots slowly,

-creating this putrid smell.

-But these little birds

-make good use of it.

-These are eider ducks,

-females with their chicks.

-I think they're feeding

-on snails and slugs.

-They usually dive underwater

-to feed on mussels.

-When an eider duck makes its nest,

-it uses its breast feathers.

-They're thick and retain warmth.

-It makes a circular nest

-and lays its eggs.

-Years ago, when the eggs hatched...

-..islanders used to collect

-the nests and sell them.

-It was those feathers

-that were used to fill eiderdowns.

-They're some of the warmest feathers

-you'll find.

-I leave Stinky Bay

-for the fresher air...

-..of this glorious beach

-on North Uist.

-It's pleasant on the beach today...

-..but can you imagine it

-in stormy conditions?

-Storms sweep in

-all the way from America.

-Look at this sand.

-It's white and bright,

-just like being in the Bahamas.

-These sand dunes have formed

-as a result of the winds and storms.

-There's a unique habitat

-hiding behind them.

-That's what I'm here to see.

-Here it is - the machair.

-The machair is a unique habitat

-of pasture land.

-It sustains all kinds of plants,

-birds and insects.

-You won't find some of these plants

-anywhere else...

-..apart from the barren

-northern Scottish coast...

-..and some parts of Ireland.

-There are three reasons for this.

-Firstly, this habitat is influenced

-by the westerly winds...

-..which blow this white sand

-over the land.

-Secondly, constant rainfall

-keeps the sandy soil in place...

-..and irrigates it.

-Thirdly, man's influence.

-For hundreds, maybe thousands,

-of years...

-..the machair has been farmed

-in a traditional manner...

-..just like the fields full of birds

-I visited earlier.

-In simple terms, those are

-the ingredients of the machair.

-This place is a sea of colour.

-It feels as if someone

-picked up a giant paintbrush...

-..and set to work

-behind the sand dunes.

-I've read about the machair

-and I've seen photographs...

-..but only when you're here

-do you truly appreciate its beauty.

-These are all wild flowers,

-and they're quite common ones.

-Kidney vetch, red clovers,

-white clovers and wild pansies.

-None of them are rare,

-but when you see them together...

-..it's a magnificent sight.

-I'd like to say one more thing

-about the machair.

-It's about the word itself.

-The 'ma' in machair

-means the same as the 'ma'...

-..in 'maes', Machynlleth

-and Mathafarn.

-It means flat land.

-As the machair now only exists

-in areas where Gaelic is spoken...

-..there is a deeper meaning

-to the word.

-It's an emotional

-and cultural meaning.

-It's similar to our use

-of the words 'aelwyd' and 'bro'.

-It's no wonder

-that the Gaelic TV series...

-..which is their equivalent

-of Pobol Y Cwm is called Machair.

-There's a familiar saying

-in these parts.

-If you don't like the weather,

-come back in five minutes.

-There's a lot of truth

-in that phrase.

-The Hebrides are as close

-to the North Pole...

-..as Moscow

-and Hudson Bay in Canada.

-Here's a clear indication of that

-- an Arctic tern.

-They're more commonly found

-in the Arctic Circle.

-Of all the Earth's creatures,

-Arctic terns migrate the furthest...

-..from the Arctic all the way

-to Antarctica and back every year.

-It's a round trip of 25,000 miles.

-Not bad going for a bird

-that weighs less than four ounces.

-There is one more thing

-I'd like to see here in Lochmaddy.

-The otter.

-I've been searching

-for almost three hours.

-I've seen

-neither hide nor hair of one yet.

-Until now.

-I've hotfooted it

-over to the end of this pier.

-There's an otter in the water

-about 100 yards away.

-It's one creature I really wanted

-to see on these western islands.

-They're relatively common

-but are difficult to find.

-There are so many hiding places

-among the seaweed.

-This one is diving under the water,

-searching for fish.

-If I stay quiet and still,

-it might come closer.

-I can't see much of it right now.

-It surfaces for a short while

-and then dives back underwater.

-It's coming closer.

-Just over there.

-It's over there now.

-It's coming in, not towards me

-but towards the far side.

-It's gone around the corner.

-It had something in its mouth.

-It's gone to feed,

-but I can't see it.

-Animals can drive you crazy!

-It's coming now.

-I'm going to keep quiet and still.

-It's coming towards me slowly.

-Wow! You always hope

-you'll see an otter here.

-But I never thought

-I'd see one this close to me.

-An exhilarating experience.

-My heart's beating like a drum.

-On the next leg of my journey,

-I visit an ancient forest...

-..that could be unique.

-Why pine trees? Why not oak trees?

-I also head to another group

-of enchanting islands...

-..the Orkney Islands.

-It's greener and less wild

-than I expected.

-As well as wildlife on land...

-..I see how nature blends

-with the rusty remains of war.

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-I've now left the Hebrides

-and I'm back on the mainland.

-Further north, in Wester Ross,

-the landscape changes dramatically.

-This is picture postcard Scotland.

-My first port of call,

-nestled in the mountains...

-..is Loch Maree, which was carved

-out of the land during the Ice Age.

-Trees only reappeared thousands

-of years after the Ice Age.

-I've come to see these pine trees

-in Beinn Eighe...

-..Britain's oldest

-national nature reserve.

-I really like

-the ancient Scots pine trees.

-They're sometimes called

-granny pines.

-Each one looks like a sculpture...

-..and each one is different.

-This one is 400 years old.

-It's not very big...

-..but when this started to grow,

-wolves roamed the area.

-Caledonian trees,

-the Scots pine trees...

-..covered the Scottish highlands...

-..all the way across

-to the west coast.

-Today, less than one per cent

-of those trees remain.

-These trees are wonderful,

-but they're also rather mysterious.

-Scientists have discovered that

-the genes of Beinn Eighe's pines...

-..differ to the genes

-of other Caledonian pine trees.

-How did they start growing here

-after the Ice Age?

-Did they come from Ireland

-or lost lands under the sea?

-Or did they survive here

-through the Ice Age...

-..and remain here today,

-granny pines and their offspring...

-..as witnesses to an ancient

-landscape that was once here?

-From Loch Maree and Beinn Eighe...

-..I head to the Scottish mainland's

-most northerly point.

-I'm crossing the famous strait

-of Pentland Firth...

-..to somewhere I've never visited

-before - the Orkneys.

-I've reached the Orkney Islands.

-I've always wanted to visit,

-but I've never been here before.

-The word Orkney

-isn't an English word.

-It's a Viking word.

-The Orkney Islands are a collection

-of over 70 islands.

-Each one has been named

-by the Vikings.

-My first impression?

-It's a lot greener and less wild

-than I thought it would be...

-..but I know it's teeming

-with wildlife.

-The first place I'll look

-for wildlife is Scapa Flow.

-It's one of the world's largest

-natural harbours.

-It's around 120 square miles,

-roughly twice the size of Cardiff.

-For centuries, it has also played

-a crucial role in history.

-It's very quiet in Scapa Flow

-this morning.

-The waters are very still.

-This scene looked very different

-during both the world wars.

-At the beginning of World War II,

-a German U-boat came into the bay...

-..and sank the British battleship

-Royal Oak.

-The land mass behind me

-is a series of islands...

-..with a gap between them

-to allow the sea in.

-Winston Churchill ordered

-the closure of the four entrances.

-Initially, they scuppered ships,

-but that wasn't enough.

-They then built a barrage of stones

-and concrete to close the gaps.

-They're called

-the Churchill Barriers.

-I'm going to dive down to see

-one of the original scuppered ships.

-Diving is dangerous

-at the best of times.

-When you film a dive,

-you need a large crew.

-The underwater film crew

-and a buddy for me.

-He's a local expert who's used

-to diving down to these old wrecks.

-I think it'll all be worth it.

-At about 12 metres at most,

-it isn't very deep here...

-..but it's a very different world.

-Look at these -

-they're ship's railings.

-You can make out some of the shapes.

-Look how nature

-has taken over the entire ship.

-It's incredible.

-It looks like a natural reef.

-The wildlife that lives in, on

-and around the ships is incredible.

-There are all kinds of crabs.

-This is a spider crab -

-no bigger than a finger nail.

-Here's a hermit crab.

-It has its own shell and lives in

-another shell deep inside this ship.

-It's playing safe.

-It lives on the remains

-of dead creatures.

-The circle of life is even reflected

-in the names of these creatures.

-Look at this.

-It's so beautiful.

-It's soft coral

-called dead man's fingers.

-It's a colony of creatures

-living together.

-They anchor themselves

-to the sunken iron ship.

-They feed on the nutrition

-you can see around me in the water.

-It's the perfect place for them.

-Other colourful creatures

-also flourish here...

-..thanks to the plentiful supply

-of food.

-They filter the food in the water

-while clinging to the ships.

-Anemones and sea squirts.

-There are also fish

-and more mobile creatures here.

-This is a flounder.

-When it stays still,

-it's perfectly camouflaged...

-..against the seabed.

-Incredibly, as it grows older,

-one of its eyes moves...

-..from one side of its head to join

-the other eye on the other side.

-It's a real Picasso fish!

-This allows it to blend

-into the background...

-..and spot its prey

-at the same time.

-They used scuppered ships to block

-the four entrances to Scapa Flow.

-Today, they've built a dam

-out of huge concrete blocks.

-These blocks are home

-to all kinds of seaweed.

-The seaweed sustains sea snails,

-sea slugs, starfish and so on.

-All kinds of creatures.

-It's teeming with wildlife.

-With a bit of luck...

-..I hope to see

-another favourite animal of mine.

-As well as other wildlife...

-..I search for seals

-on the Orkney Islands.

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-One thing is true of all islands.

-If wildlife needs to visit land

-from time to time...

-..there are only a few

-suitable places to do so.

-A dozen or more seals have been seen

-on the remote Kirk Geo beach.

-These are common seals.

-When you travel along western

-and northern coasts...

-..you usually see grey seals.

-You can spot some

-along the Welsh coast.

-In the north-west of Scotland,

-and on the Orkney Islands...

-..common and grey seals

-can be seen together.

-Common seals are prettier.

-They have dog-like faces.

-The grey seal

-has a large Roman nose.

-These are resting.

-There's one scratching its skin.

-They've been fishing.

-They're resting

-and keeping warm on the rocks.

-They'll return to the water

-to fish later.

-On land, they're awkward lumps...

-..but when they're underwater,

-they're in their element.

-Seeing them like this

-explains the old Orkney legend...

-..that at certain times of the year,

-common seals shed their fur coats...

-..and turn into little people,

-or selkies.

-There is something almost human

-about their eyes.

-I came to Kirk Geo to see the seals,

-but at the top of the beach...

-..I notice something very rare,

-even for the Orkney Islands.

-The oyster plant.

-As the name suggests, the leaves

-supposedly taste of oysters.

-It's an Arctic plant, found mainly

-in Norway and Iceland...

-..but one was spotted growing

-on Abergele beach in the 1980s.

-It's such a pretty plant.

-From Kirk Geo beach...

-..I head for the rougher landscape

-of Yesnaby Head.

-In the distance

-is the Old Man of Hoy...

-..a sea stack

-towering above the waves.

-There are grass of Parnassus

-flowers everywhere, surprisingly.

-It's a pretty flower, rare in Wales,

-but found in abundance here.

-However, another flower

-also grows here.

-It only grows in a few places

-in the north of Scotland.

-Here's another

-grass of Parnassus...

-..but my main reason

-for visiting this area...

-..was to show you this flower.

-The Scottish primrose.

-This is a very rare flower.

-It is only found

-on Scotland's north coast...

-..and here on the Orkney Islands.

-It grows best on land that's used

-for grazing and hasn't been treated.

-That's why it flourishes here.

-There are so many of them,

-you must be careful where you tread.

-What a pretty flower.

-Yes, it's small,

-but it's very tough.

-It grows in the harsh, cold winds

-of the Atlantic...

-..but it's disappearing in areas

-where the land is being improved.

-Much of the main island has been

-farmed intensively for decades.

-However, there are areas

-where I feel right at home.

-The wild cliffs on the coast

-or up on Birsay Moors...

-..an RSPB reserve

-in the north of Mainland.

-I'm welcomed by a curlew overhead.

-The air is heavy with a scent that

-reminds me of the Berwyn Mountains.

-The sweet aroma of meadowsweet.

-I expected to see this up here,

-although not on meadowsweet.

-The caterpillar

-of the emperor moth.

-It usually feeds on heather

-and bilberry leaves.

-I don't think it's feeding

-on this meadowsweet.

-I think it has lost its way.

-It has a lovely light green colour

-with yellow and black spots.

-Very pretty.

-There's a special satisfaction

-in seeing familiar things...

-..in unfamiliar surroundings.

-But here on Birsay Moors...

-..you'll see sights

-that are very unfamiliar to us.

-We're far north now and can see

-a great skua, or bonxie.

-Bonxie is a local word.

-Another bird you're likely to see

-is the Arctic skua.

-You wouldn't find these birds

-on Welsh moors.

-In fact, the Arctic skua may become

-a rare sight in the near future.

-Their numbers have fallen

-dramatically recently.

-They have been placed on a list

-of threatened species.

-Another bird found on these moors

-is on that list in Wales.

-One of the main reasons

-for visiting the Orkney Islands...

-..was to see the hen harrier,

-one of my favourite birds.

-They're here in large numbers.

-There were around 100 pairs...

-..and there are still

-around 90 pairs here now.

-In a valley like this,

-there are four or five pairs.

-There's a good chance

-I'll see some of them hunting today.

-Here's a male flying in.

-The male flies low across the moors.

-It's one of the prettiest birds

-you'll see in the highlands.

-It's light grey.

-I think the nest...

-I'll keep an eye on it.

-Yes, it's carrying prey.

-Is it? Maybe not.

-The tips of its wings are black.

-It's like a ghost

-flying across the moors.

-Here it goes again.

-Where's it going? Oh, it's being

-followed by two chicks.

-There are two chicks following it.

-They have obviously fledged.

-It flew over the nest

-and the chicks followed it.

-I lost it for a second.

-I don't know if it dropped

-some prey.

-The two chicks are flying around

-and the male has flown away.

-It's still hunting.

-It was just passing over.

-That was nice!

-I enjoyed that.

-Isn't this a wonderful place

-in this warm sunshine?

-I love Scotland

-and I've enjoyed my visit here.

-I'm glad I had the opportunity

-to visit the Orkney Islands.

-The next step is a big step.

-Hundreds of miles across the sea

-to the Faroe Islands.

-There, I'm certain,

-the adventure will continue.

-On the last leg of the journey...

-..I visit the Faroe Islands

-for the first time.

-It's great to see mountains

-rising straight up out of the sea.

-I also visit Iceland to see some

-of the world's largest mammals.

-There's one over here.

-I'll roam the island's barren

-and beautiful landscape.

-I'll dive into the depths...

-..explore a cave formed by lava...

-It looks like

-the entrance to Hell!

-..and cross an invisible boundary

-into the Arctic Circle.

-It's a remote, inhospitable place

-and it's hard to live here.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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