Ynysoedd Ffaroe, Gwlad yr Ia Antur y Gorllewin

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-The Atlantic Ocean.

-An ocean that provides warmth

-and water.

-It influences the climate

-and wildlife...

-..of every country

-in Western Europe.

-The warmth and moisture

-of the Atlantic...

-..promotes the fertile growth

-we see all across Western Europe.

-These rich habitats sustain

-a wide variety of incredible life.

-There are deer everywhere.

-The sea itself

-is a treasure trove of nature.

-These are beautiful -

-jewel anemones.

-I'm on an exciting journey

-along Europe's west coast...

-..discovering the nature of the

-countries that face the Atlantic.

-The adventure started in the south,

-around the Azores.

-I've seen fantastic wildlife

-and some incredible sights...

-..in Portugal, Spain...

-A lynx, lads.

-..France...

-Here's a strange bird -

-a black-winged stilt.

-In the Channel Islands,

-I saw a green lizard.

-..Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly...

-..Ireland and Scotland.

-I'm on the final leg of my journey.

-I'm on my way

-to the Faroe Islands...

-..and Iceland.

-There's one there.

-I've reached the Faroe Islands,

-about 160 miles north of Scotland.

-The islands are located

-in the North Atlantic...

-..about halfway

-between Norway and Iceland.

-The Faroe Islands

-have a special character.

-You feel as if

-you're far from everywhere.

-The Faroe Islands' landscape...

-..is as dramatic as any I've seen

-on my journey so far.

-It's odd to find

-a group of islands...

-..in the middle

-of the North Atlantic.

-You don't expect to see

-anything like this...

-..halfway between Scotland

-and Iceland.

-Look at these huge mountains

-rising up from the sea.

-There are 18 islands in all.

-If you pushed them together...

-..they'd cover an area

-not much bigger than Anglesey.

-Some of the highest mountains

-reach a height of 880 metres.

-That's the same height as Pen y Fan.

-Very few people live here -

-some 48,000 across all the islands.

-The 70,000 unique

-Faroe Island sheep...

-..enjoy the hard life here.

-The islands' location in the middle

-of the North Atlantic...

-..is perfect for seabirds

-that need to nest.

-One of them is the Arctic tern.

-Another seabird

-has chosen the Faroe Islands...

-..as its most important

-nesting spot.

-They hide under the rocks by day...

-..since they're scared

-of larger birds.

-We know they're there

-because they're so noisy.

-Jens-Kjeld Jenson

-is the islands' Mr Nature.

-He has studied these small birds

-for many years.

-He's building a trap

-to catch the birds.

-Which way are we going to put it -

-across like this?

-I'll let you put them in.

-We're erecting these nets

-to catch the storm petrels.

-There are hundreds of thousands

-of them here.

-This is the world's largest colony.

-They can be found under these rocks.

-You won't see them now because

-they come out when it's dark.

-Storm petrels avoid daylight

-because gulls eat them.

-They venture out in darkness,

-walking along the ground...

-..before taking to the skies.

-And now we sit and wait, is it?

-Only sit and wait. In 35 minutes,

-we will see the first.

-Right. I'll keep you to that.

-Exactly 35 minutes.

-Fair play,

-Jens was pretty close to the mark.

-As the light faded,

-the birds appeared.

-They flew without any gulls

-to bother them...

-..safe from the attention

-of any predators.

-Apart from Jens's net!

-This is only

-a temporary inconvenience...

-..as Jens tries to gather

-some information about the petrels.

-Wow.

-It's already been ringed, this one.

-It's only when you see it

-in the hand...

-..you realize

-what a small bird it is.

-These nest in Wales

-and the rest of Europe.

-I've previously heard them

-in Ireland...

-..hiding in a wall

-on the Skellig Islands.

-They nest much later here...

-..because it's light

-almost around the clock...

-..on the Faroe Islands

-during May and June.

-These have a unique smell too.

-Yeah, yeah.

-They can spit on you...

-..and you can have their smell

-for the next year on your clothes.

-It's a very special smell.

-Yeah, it is.

-They have a unique smell.

-They can spit at you too.

-I associate it with my visits

-to Skomer years ago...

-..when I used to look after

-these birds.

-This smell brings back

-the memories every time.

-It's hard to tell what it is.

-It's like the smell of old fish

-but not in a bad way.

-It's a nice smell.

-It's quite a nice smell, isn't it?

-You buy my jacket?!

-It's all over you.

-It's an old jacket,

-but you can buy this.

-To take the smell home with me.

-That's very kind of you

-but no, thank you.

-I say farewell to this little bird

-and Jens's coat...

-..and leave the Faroe Islands

-bound for Iceland.

-This is the northernmost country

-on my journey.

-Just like the Azores...

-..the islands I visited

-at the start of my journey...

-..Iceland is located

-in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

-Both places are influenced

-by volcanic activity.

-Iceland is covered by the scars

-and dust of volcanoes.

-A great deal of it has come

-as a result of recent events.

-The land is volatile

-because of the island's location.

-Iceland and the Azores are part

-of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge...

-..a chain of mountains running

-south to north through the ocean...

-..near a large fissure

-in the earth's crust.

-Most of the ridge is under the sea,

-but some parts reach the surface...

-..creating the islands

-of the Azores and Iceland.

-When I visited the Azores...

-..I swam with manta rays

-above one of the ridge's mountains.

-Oh, wow! Look at these.

-The rays gathered above

-the underwater slopes to feed.

-On the island of Pico

-in the Azores...

-..Mount Pico volcano was still hot.

-In Iceland, the effects

-of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge...

-..are far more dramatic.

-The island sits across the ridge...

-..where the continents of Europe

-and America shift and collide.

-This is what produces

-all the energy on the island.

-Steam is created

-by volcanic activity underground.

-It's released almost everywhere.

-There are more hot geysers

-in Iceland...

-..than in any other country

-in the world.

-Volcanic activity isn't the only

-factor shaping the landscape.

-The cold conditions

-also have an effect...

-..especially when the ice melts

-during the summer.

-The meltwater

-creates spectacular waterfalls.

-This waterfall is called Godafoss.

-There's such a force of water

-flowing over it...

-..you can feel the earth

-shaking under your feet.

-Iceland's nature is very energetic.

-Not only the waterfalls...

-..but the geysers, the hot steam

-emerging from the ground...

-..and the volcanoes,

-which are still active today.

-Visiting a place like this

-and standing close to it...

-..reminds you

-how insignificant you are...

-..and how powerful nature can be.

-There's no better example of this...

-..than the effect of volcanoes

-on the landscape.

-There's so much volcanic activity

-on the island.

-Lava rocks and dust

-are scattered everywhere.

-Look at this place -

-it's like an alien planet.

-Much of the mainland

-looks like this...

-..stripped of any vegetation.

-Here or there,

-you'll see some plants and mosses.

-As they wilt and die, they slowly

-create another layer of soil.

-It can take decades,

-even centuries...

-..but slowly,

-the growth will return.

-Later, I'll discover more

-about Iceland's hot and cold nature.

-I'll see subterranean

-ice sculptures.

-It's the middle of summer now,

-but this ice has survived.

-I'll also visit caves

-created by volcanic activity.

-It looks like the mouth of Hell!

-It's an incredible thing.

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-I'm on the final leg

-of my European adventure...

-..visiting the countries

-that face the Atlantic.

-I've reached Iceland.

-I'm heading

-for the Reykjanes Peninsula...

-..and the Leitahraun lava field.

-I'm exploring a cave

-formed by subterranean lava flow...

-..with a group of cavers

-and local guide Kari Bjornsson.

-Like the rest of Iceland,

-the landscape is very open...

-..with ancient lava rocks

-covered in moss and small plants.

-It's the perfect habitat for upland

-birds like the golden plover.

-But I'm not here to watch birds -

-I'm heading underground.

-Nothing above ground suggests

-anything remarkable underground.

-Only a dark opening

-into the belly of the earth.

-This is a special cave.

-The stalactites and stalagmites

-are created from ice, not stone.

-Look at the incredible

-ice sculptures.

-Dear me!

-It looks as if someone

-has been here to mould it all...

-..but it's melting slowly.

-It's incredible to think

-that it's the middle of summer.

-But the temperature down here

-is between two and four degrees...

-..so the ice can survive.

-Caves are usually created when water

-erodes soft rocks like limestone.

-This magnificent cave

-was formed by hot lava.

-Perfect tunnels stretch underground.

-You could swear

-that they'd been dug out by man...

-..but they were shaped by lava.

-I'm used to going into caves...

-..and seeing stalactites

-hanging down from the ceiling.

-I thought these were the same,

-but they're not.

-This is rock that's softened.

-This was all lava -

-there was no solid rock at all.

-The lumps hanging from the ceiling

-were lava dripping down.

-As it became cold, it hardened.

-By now, what was once like treacle

-is now hard rock.

-If I'd stood here 5,000 years ago...

-..I would have been badly burnt...

-..but I would also have sunk

-into the ground.

-Kari's father discovered the cave

-about seven years ago.

-It's one of world's most incredible

-subterranean discoveries.

-The explosion that formed

-the tunnels must have been huge.

-We're now coming

-to the lava flow proper.

-You can see it now, can't you?

-This was the height

-of the lava river.

-That's what this bit here is?

-It's like a tidemark, almost.

-It would have flowed at this level

-right across here.

-And this would have been lava,

-spitting and dripping.

-It's like the mouth of Hell.

-It's an incredible thing.

-You can see the lava

-underneath our feet.

-A lava tunnel, a real lava tunnel.

-The lava flow stops suddenly

-in a dangerous pit...

-..that drops down around 17 metres.

-It ends here?

-The deepest lava pit in the world.

-The deepest lava pit in the world.

-

-Wow! That's incredible.

-Do we know why

-it has dropped down like that?

-A lot of cave experts have been here

-and no-one has a clue.

-What an amazing end to it.

-It looks like it's been sprayed

-in chocolate here.

-There are incredible volcanic scenes

-under the sea too.

-The best example can be found

-in Eyjafjordur in the north.

-The water here is heated

-by an undersea volcanic vent.

-Well, look at this.

-This is a chimney.

-It pumps boiling water out

-from the bowels of the earth.

-It cools down

-when it combines with seawater.

-It's incredible.

-Chimneys like this

-can be found across the country.

-On land, they form geysers.

-The water is pumped

-out of the ground...

-..high into the sky.

-It shows that volcanoes

-still control Iceland.

-The chimney has been releasing

-boiling water for 11,000 years.

-This is only the upper part...

-..about 15 metres under the waves.

-It stretches down about 55 metres

-to the seabed.

-It's fresh water, not seawater,

-and it's packed with minerals.

-When the minerals mix

-with seawater...

-..they solidify

-and form limestone chimneys.

-The combination of warm water

-and minerals...

-..creates a rich habitat

-for wildlife.

-It's incredible to see

-so much wildlife...

-..congregating around this chimney.

-All kinds of seaweed, starfish

-and fish of all shapes and sizes.

-It's all as a result

-of the warm water.

-It attracts all kinds of bacteria

-and plankton...

-..which provide nourishment

-for all the creatures.

-Here's a fierce-looking fish.

-Can you see those large teeth

-in its mouth?

-It's a wolf fish.

-It's actually quite harmless.

-Those large teeth are used to crush

-shells, crabs and similar creatures.

-Thankfully, they don't bite people.

-Iceland's different landscapes...

-..have to withstand

-the harsh elements of nature...

-..both in the sea and on land.

-Strong winds sweep across

-the open landscapes.

-During the summer, when the ice

-and snow have retreated...

-..any loose soil is blown away.

-The landscape has been scarred

-by earthquakes.

-It's difficult for anything

-to survive in such harsh conditions.

-The first thing that struck me

-when I reached Iceland...

-..was the lack of trees,

-bushes and hedges.

-There is growth here,

-but only very close to the ground.

-You have to get down

-to get close to it.

-I've seen some dwarf willow.

-They don't grow upwards -

-they creep along the ground.

-There's very little soil here

-and there's a very sharp wind.

-It can freeze leaves in an instant.

-There are familiar plants too.

-I've seen them

-in the uplands of Cwm Idwal.

-This is mountain avens.

-I've seen roseroot.

-They're very rare in Wales,

-but they flourish here.

-This is very similar to the Arctic.

-The soil is thin, it freezes here

-from October until April.

-When summer comes, it's very short.

-All these flowers

-appear at the same time.

-When they do appear,

-they're beautiful.

-The cold weather isn't far away,

-even in high summer.

-Snow and ice cover the mountains

-all year round.

-It's July, and this is one

-of Iceland's largest glaciers.

-It's melting in the relatively

-mild summer temperatures...

-..but the word mild

-is rather misleading.

-The temperature

-is only just above freezing.

-The glaciers in the mountains...

-..are the reason why there's

-so much water in this country.

-They melt during the summer...

-..and the water flows

-into streams and rivers...

-..creating magnificent waterfalls.

-This is a remote place,

-a frozen desert.

-It's hard to live up here.

-As they melt, the glaciers release

-thousands of gallons of water.

-The water flows down

-to the lowlands.

-That's where wildlife flourishes.

-I'm watching a female

-harlequin duck...

-..fishing right in the middle

-of the white water.

-How she can swim in that water,

-I'll never know.

-She's diving under the water...

-..to feed on the larvae

-of these black flies.

-They're flying around my head.

-The larvae are on the rocks,

-where most of the oxygen is found.

-That's where the water

-flows strongest.

-The ducks dive

-and feed on the larvae.

-There are so many larvae

-that it's like grass.

-Then they come back to the surface.

-I've just swallowed some!

-The female is pretty,

-but the male is majestic.

-Since the river freezes quickly

-in the autumn and flies disappear...

-..the male will leave soon

-to live by the sea.

-The female will follow him

-after she has raised the chicks.

-Since there are so many flies

-in the rivers and lakes...

-..during the summer,

-thousands of water birds migrate...

-..to feed and nest in Iceland.

-Many come from Europe.

-Others, such as

-the Barrow's goldeneye, stay here.

-They spend the winter in stretches

-of water that don't freeze...

-..near the hot springs.

-In Iceland, whooper swans nest.

-They can be seen in Wales

-during the winter...

-..on the Glaslyn near Porthmadog,

-on the Tywi near Dryslwyn...

-..and on the Severn near Newtown.

-These are different

-to the orange-beaked mute swans...

-..seen all year round in Wales.

-When these chicks are old enough,

-at the end of September...

-..the whole family will fly

-all the way to Southern Europe.

-This family may well end up

-in Wales.

-Later on my journey,

-I catch up with some whales.

-There's one over here.

-I'll also reach the end of the road

-and the end of my adventure.

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-I'm in the south-west of Iceland.

-I'm preparing for a dive

-with the filming crew...

-..in one of the world's

-most remarkable pools.

-The pool is in a rift

-formed in the ground...

-..by Iceland's volcanic nature.

-The Silfra rift is located

-in the Thingvellir National Park...

-..about 50 miles east

-of the capital, Reykjavik.

-The rift is filled with fresh water.

-It leads to Lake Thingvellir,

-one of Iceland's largest lakes.

-The water is as cold

-as any I've swum in.

-It's also the clearest.

-As clear as crystal.

-The water is incredibly clear.

-The source of this water

-is a glacier 50km from here.

-It works its way through the rock

-and joins the lake...

-..through a series of streams.

-That's why...

-Well, I've never dived

-in such clear water before.

-It's incredible.

-I can see for 100m ahead.

-In Wales, if I dive...

-..I'm lucky if I can see

-five metres ahead.

-To be honest, you can see as far

-as the eye can see!

-The water has taken almost a century

-to reach here.

-It has travelled

-through volcanic rock.

-Any mud or stones

-have been filtered out.

-It's like swimming through the air.

-Clear water isn't the only wonder

-that makes the Silfra rift special.

-It's also an interesting

-geological location.

-I'm swimming here

-between two continents.

-On my right is the North American

-continental plate.

-On my left,

-is the European continental plate.

-Both plates are separating slowly.

-If you want to know

-how quickly they're separating...

-..if Christopher Columbus

-set sail for America today...

-..he'd have to travel

-three feet further...

-..than he did six centuries ago.

-Silfra is one of the few places

-in the world...

-..where you can see the boundary

-between two continents clearly.

-Imagine this rift stretching

-far into the earth's core.

-It helps you learn more

-about how continents...

-..and the movement between them

-can cause earthquakes...

-..and the volcanic activity

-seen in locations like Iceland.

-I'm now at sea

-off the northern coast of Iceland.

-I'm in Skjalfandi Bay,

-20 miles north of Husavik.

-I'm searching for whales.

-We've seen a whale out here.

-It blew out some air

-before diving back down again.

-I'm not sure what it is.

-We'll have to wait a few minutes

-until it returns to the surface.

-If you look at the water, you can

-see where it was before it dived.

-Oh, wow. Oh, two.

-One in front of the other,

-over there.

-When they surface, they stay up

-for a while before diving again.

-Hopefully, we can see one

-close to the boat.

-Can you see it?

-It's surfaced on the horizon.

-Hopefully,

-we can see one that's closer.

-Look, look, look, look.

-Oh, wow.

-And a little dolphin with it.

-Here it comes.

-Oh!

-There are two whales here...

-..the fin whale

-and the world's largest whale...

-..the blue whale.

-Here's one.

-Another blue whale.

-A blue whale. Goodness me.

-We think of dinosaurs

-as large creatures.

-The diplodocus, and so on.

-There it is again.

-These whales are larger

-than all the dinosaurs.

-Anything that was around

-at that time.

-Blue whales are bigger.

-There has never been a creature

-on the planet as big as these.

-I'm looking at the largest creature

-that has ever lived.

-They're diving into the deep water

-to feed on krill.

-They eat tonnes of krill,

-they have huge mouths.

-Let me put it like this.

-The largest land animal

-is the African elephant.

-They eat the weight of one elephant

-in krill in a single day.

-In a single day!

-That's how big they are.

-They dive down,

-100 or 200 metres...

-..and return to the surface

-with a mouthful of krill.

-Oh! There's one over there.

-Look!

-Wow!

-I can see this one

-swimming under the surface.

-There it is, there it is.

-This one is a humpback whale.

-Watch out - it's coming.

-Watch the tail.

-Fantastic.

-Fantastic.

-It has dived under the water.

-Goodness me!

-Humpback whales are a lot smaller

-than blue and fin whales...

-..but are still

-around 15 metres long.

-They only feed near Iceland

-in summer.

-For the remainder of the year...

-..they migrate to more tropical

-waters to give birth to their young.

-During the summer...

-..it moves closer to the Arctic

-to find plenty of food.

-The seas near the poles are ideal.

-The crew and I

-are going to follow the whales...

-..and travel to the northernmost

-point of my journey...

-..an island in the Arctic Circle.

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-I'm in Iceland, travelling

-to the island of Grimsey...

-..the northernmost point

-of my journey...

-..and the only part of Iceland

-inside the Arctic Circle.

-It's paradise for any ornithologist

-in the middle of July.

-It's the nesting season.

-During the summer, the island

-is home to a million birds.

-These are Arctic terns, just like

-the ones I saw on the Faroe Islands.

-Grimsey is a small island,

-only some two square miles.

-Most of the land

-has been left as rough pasture.

-There are no predators here.

-No foxes, dogs, cats or rats.

-It's a perfect place

-for dunlins and golden plovers.

-These have almost stopped nesting

-on the Welsh uplands.

-There, their eggs and chicks

-are eaten by foxes and crows.

-Here, they flourish.

-Here's a special northern bird.

-This little bird singing here

-is a snow bunting.

-It's such a pretty bird.

-This is a male.

-It has black and white feathers.

-This small bird pushes further north

-than any other small bird.

-It also migrates south

-during the winter.

-The female is here somewhere.

-She's far more insignificant.

-This one's nesting

-in the rocks below me.

-He's marking his territory

-by singing.

-I can hear another male nearby,

-over in the distance.

-It's a lovely sound.

-It's hard to believe this...

-..but in winter, snow buntings

-can be spotted on Rhyl beach.

-It's one of the places

-they migrate to.

-It will have lost

-its breeding feathers by then...

-..but it's still an impressive bird.

-Most of the birds on Grimsey

-nest on the cliffs above the sea.

-We see the same species

-on the Welsh coast in spring.

-Puffins.

-Razorbills.

-And fulmars.

-The main difference here is the

-huge numbers of birds that nest...

-..because of the tranquillity

-and abundance of food...

-..found in the sea

-within the Arctic Circle.

-Some of the high cliffs

-in these northern climes...

-..are some of the best

-you're ever likely to see.

-Look at all the gulls,

-razorbills, guillemots and puffins.

-They're here in their thousands.

-They're almost like bees.

-These cliffs are so high

-and so dangerous for any predator.

-They're safe places

-for the birds to nest.

-The seas are teeming with fish,

-so there's plenty of food.

-This is the ideal place

-for them to be.

-It's easy to describe the scene...

-..but the smell is incredible.

-It's the smell of bird droppings

-- a strong smell of rotting fish.

-It all helps to build a picture

-of this incredible scene.

-On such a glorious day,

-with thousands of birds overhead...

-..I can't think of a better location

-to end my journey.

-I'm very fortunate.

-This is only one

-of several great locations...

-..I've visited on my journey

-along Europe's west coast.

-The adventure started in the Azores.

-Nine volcanic islands

-nestled in the Atlantic...

-..and Europe's

-most south-westerly point.

-In Portugal, I visited

-rich agricultural land...

-..packed with wildlife.

-In Spain, I came face-to-face

-with hundreds of vultures.

-I climbed the striking Pyrenees

-in France.

-Closer to home, I was reminded

-of Britain's beautiful west coast...

-..on the Channel Islands.

-I also visited Cornwall

-and the Isles of Scilly.

-I visited Ireland's wildest areas...

-..and Scotland's remotest areas.

-It has been a privilege

-and a tremendous adventure.

-I've descended underground and seen

-impressive hidden landscapes.

-I've swum with dangerous sharks.

-I can see the teeth clearly here.

-I've been stunned

-by rich underwater habitats.

-The Gulf Stream influences

-the entire west coast of Europe.

-I've seen some special creatures,

-such as the lynx.

-I'm so excited. Sorry!

-I've never seen such a rare animal.

-I'm not going to talk or move much.

-I'm going to stay as still as I can.

-I saw this beaver in Scotland.

-Sometimes, I saw the same creature

-in different countries.

-I saw red deer in Spain and Ireland.

-I saw golden plovers

-in Ireland and Iceland...

-..and otters in Spain and Scotland.

-Country borders

-mean nothing to wildlife.

-The quality of the habitat

-is more important.

-Sometimes, the creatures were unique

-to a particular part of Europe.

-Manta rays in the Azores.

-Marmots in the French Pyrenees.

-Green lizards on Jersey.

-Why aren't they seen in Wales?

-Rare plants

-like the Scottish primrose.

-This is such a rare plant.

-It is only found

-on Scotland's north coast.

-All kinds of wildlife

-that makes each country special.

-Sometimes,

-the landscape was similar.

-This could be the far end

-of Cornwall...

-..Pembrokeshire

-or the Lleyn Peninsula.

-Sometimes, it was very different.

-The landscape of southern Spain

-and the huge French sand dunes...

-..left a lasting impression.

-Often, the difference was down

-to the way man had treated the land.

-In Wales, this kind of land

-would have been treated.

-Nettles would have been sprayed.

-That patch of land

-was on Inishbofin in Ireland.

-It was the ideal habitat

-for the corncrake.

-Unfortunately, I saw some habitats

-being destroyed by man's folly.

-Local ornithologists

-who count the birds...

-..tell me that they lose at least

-2,000 birds to the turbines...

-..every spring and autumn.

-Hundreds of windmills built on an

-important migration path in Spain.

-I was glad to see the way

-some habitats had been saved...

-..such as this impressive

-steppe land in Portugal.

-It takes me back to my childhood...

-..when I walked through fields

-full of flowers, insects and birds.

-And this agricultural land

-in France.

-I can hear insects

-and birds singing everywhere.

-It's the sound of nature.

-I also saw some excellent wetlands.

-What would we give

-for land like this at home?

-That's one of the lessons

-of this series.

-When land is left alone,

-nature provides wonderful scenes.

-This rich tapestry of life

-is possible...

-..across the whole

-of Western Europe.

-Here, in the far north,

-on Grimsey in the Arctic Circle...

-..my journey comes to an end.

-It has been

-a very interesting journey.

-Every country has been different.

-Each one has its unique character,

-landscape and wildlife.

-But they all

-have one thing in common.

-The undeniable influence

-of the Atlantic Ocean.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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