Yr Asores, Madeira a Portiwgal Antur y Gorllewin

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-Come with me on a journey.

-Oh, wow. Look at these.

-My journey begins in the middle

-of the Atlantic, in the Azores.

-It will end in Iceland.

-An adventure from the warm south

-to the cold north.

-I'm swimming here...

-..between two continents.

-I'll take you to Western Europe's

-remotest and wildest reaches.

-I've never seen anything like this.

-We'll visit Portugal.

-Spain.

-Well, well, well.

-We've searched everywhere.

-France.

-The Channel Islands.

-Cornwall.

-The Isles of Scilly.

-Ireland.

-Scotland.

-And the Faroe Islands.

-We're going to explore

-some striking coastlines.

-We'll travel across huge wetlands.

-There are birds everywhere.

-It's a paradise for me.

-We'll climb mountains...

-..roam forests...

-..see stunning caves...

-..and come face-to-face

-with amazing marine creatures.

-I can see its teeth.

-It's going to be some journey.

-Join me.

-There's one here.

-The Atlantic Ocean.

-A sea that provides warmth

-and water.

-It influences our landscapes

-and wildlife.

-The climate of every country

-in Western Europe...

-..is warm because of the Atlantic.

-The Gulf Stream,

-which begins in the Caribbean...

-..and flows under the surface,

-provides the coastlines with warmth.

-Without it,

-our climate would be much colder.

-Our climate is fairly wet...

-..because of the prevailing

-south-westerly winds.

-They travel across the Atlantic,

-picking up moisture on the way.

-The Atlantic's warmth

-and moisture...

-..is responsible for fertile growth

-across Western Europe.

-These rich habitats provide life

-for some incredible creatures.

-During my journey, I will discover

-the nature of these habitats.

-What's similar

-and what's different about them?

-What is the true nature of the

-countries that face the Atlantic?

-My journey begins in the middle

-of the Atlantic Ocean...

-..some 900 miles west of mainland

-Europe, in the Azores.

-I'm travelling from Pico,

-the Azores' second largest island...

-..with a diving crew.

-We're going to explore the sea

-around the islands.

-These are the Azores.

-The summit in the distance

-is Mount Pico, a volcano.

-When you reach the Azores...

-..you're a third of the way

-across the Atlantic to America.

-My journey begins not on land

-but under the waves.

-The first thing you notice

-is the difference in colour...

-..above and below the surface.

-Even though the sea is stormy...

-..the water is blue and clear.

-In the middle of the ocean,

-there's little to pollute the water.

-I'm here to search for sharks,

-and to swim with them.

-It's a challenge in a calm sea,

-let alone a rough one.

-The first thing to do

-is attract them to us.

-The skipper claims that this stretch

-of ocean is packed with sharks.

-A net full of fish

-should do the trick.

-The first one arrives.

-Soon, several have gathered.

-Frenzied feeding starts

-not long after.

-The sharks will be here for a while.

-It's time for myself and the crew

-to enter the water.

-I've been advised

-not to stay close to the surface.

-It's better to be deeper.

-Sharks are more curious

-about objects near to the surface...

-..rather than objects further down.

-That doesn't make me feel

-any safer though.

-This is a mako shark.

-Wow! It's from the same family

-as the great white shark.

-I can see its teeth from here.

-I'm keeping an eye on it

-all the time.

-I'm not sure where it's gone.

-Underwater, you can see

-how perfect the shark's body is...

-..for living in the Atlantic Ocean.

-The mako shark is usually the first

-to appear when food is available.

-It's such a powerful shark.

-Above the water,

-the food has attracted the birds.

-This is a great shearwater.

-It's a large bird that spends

-most of its time fishing at sea.

-It dives underwater

-to catch the fish.

-Here, it has found a free meal.

-It's taking a chance, considering

-what lurks under the surface.

-This blue shark has come nearer now.

-It's a long, thin shark.

-It has fins behind its head

-that stick out.

-This allows the shark to swim

-effortlessly through the water...

-..as it searches for fish.

-It's being followed

-by black and white fish.

-Those are pilot fish.

-They follow the shark...

-..in the hope of finding

-some scraps of food as it eats.

-This shark has decided

-to take a closer look at me.

-To tell you the truth,

-I was starting to sweat.

-Thankfully, blue sharks

-aren't as fierce as mako sharks.

-It's a special experience

-to see sharks in their habitat.

-They send a shiver

-down everyone's spine...

-..but respect them

-and you should stay safe.

-You won't find a more majestic fish

-in the ocean.

-The Azores are volcanic islands

-that belong to Portugal.

-There are nine islands

-pushed up from the sea by volcanoes.

-The Azores are among

-the world's youngest islands.

-You can see evidence

-of volcanic craters on the land.

-The landscape is dramatic.

-It's being continually reshaped

-by the Atlantic.

-The Azores' largest island

-is Sao Miguel.

-It's also known as the Green Island,

-for obvious reasons.

-It's covered

-by thick, rich vegetation.

-I'm on the island's eastern side,

-opposite Pico da Vara.

-It's a volcano that has been dormant

-for many centuries.

-It's the same height as Snowdon.

-What a view. Look at this.

-The island's tallest mountains

-covered by vegetation...

-..all the way from the river

-right to the summit.

-This is a very rare habitat.

-These are mostly native plants.

-You don't see that in many places.

-It's the only island in the Azores

-where you'll find this.

-This is because the islands

-are out in the Atlantic Ocean.

-It rains a lot here,

-especially during the winter.

-Sometimes, clouds cover the

-vegetation throughout the summer.

-It helps the land

-retain its moisture.

-The vegetation flourishes,

-as do the insects and birds.

-Since the Azores have never been

-part of a large continent...

-..every plant and animal

-on the islands...

-..arrived by air or sea.

-The variety of species

-is limited here...

-..but they are all unique

-to the Azores and very rare.

-However, the native plants

-are all under threat.

-New plants are appearing

-on the island.

-Non-native flowers have grown

-in all parts of the island...

-..destroying natural habitats

-in the process.

-Joaquim Teodosio is a member

-of a society that studies birds.

-He's part of a team...

-..that's trying to re-establish

-the island's natural habitat...

-..by destroying and clearing

-non-native plants.

-Moving around the island,

-it looks stunning.

-It's very green and you have

-some beautiful flowers here...

-..but they're not native,

-most of these.

-It's one of the problems,

-even for local people...

-..nowadays, unfortunately,

-people believe that hydrangeas...

-..and kahili ginger are native.

-Few people now know what is

-a laurel tree and holly...

-..the Azorean holly tree

-or the blueberry.

-It's a shame because it's difficult

-to find areas of native forest...

-..in Sao Miguel.

-Where did all of these plants

-come from? From gardens?

-Most of them,

-the ones with beautiful flowers...

-..almost all of them

-came from gardens.

-Botanical gardens that people had

-one or two centuries ago.

-The problem is that hundreds

-of species were brought here.

-This was the best place for them,

-so they started spreading around.

-It takes the space, the nutrients

-and the trees cover the sun...

-..so it's very difficult for

-the native forest to recover also.

-But once you remove them,

-the native forests recover well.

-Joaquim is an ornithologist.

-The hard work he and his team does

-is mainly for a very rare bird...

-..that relies on the native plants

-for its food.

-I'm looking for a little bird

-called priolo.

-That's what the locals call it.

-It has been using this tall tree.

-It has been heard singing on it.

-I think it's looking

-for somewhere to feed.

-It flies over to the other side

-to look for berries.

-It's an Azores bullfinch.

-It's one of the rarest birds

-in the whole of Europe.

-I thought I could hear it then.

-I can hear its call over here.

-It's rare, it's shy -

-it's very difficult to spot.

-There's an adult bird

-and some young birds.

-The young birds have left the nest,

-feeding on seeds and fruit.

-I had to visit Sao Miguel.

-It's the only place in the world

-where you'll see this bird.

-At one time,

-only 200 pairs remained.

-Today,

-thanks to the society's work...

-..numbers have increased

-to around 750 pairs.

-That may sound quite impressive

-for such a small island.

-But that's all there are

-in the world, so it's still rare.

-Our bullfinch back home

-has red plumage and a black head.

-The female is brown.

-Here, the male and female...

-..I can hear them singing

-over there...

-I still can't see one.

-Both the male and female here

-are the same colour.

-They're very fond of this tree.

-Ironically, it's not a native tree.

-This chick was born this year.

-It's more adventurous

-than the adults.

-I'm here in September.

-By November, it will have

-a black head, like its parents.

-Wow, there were three of them.

-Soon, my journey will continue

-with some incredible sea creatures.

-Wow! Look at these.

-I'll also visit Portugal to see one

-of the world's most amazing birds.

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-I'm exploring nature

-in countries facing the Atlantic.

-Wow. It's from the same family

-as the great white shark.

-My journey began in the Azores...

-..about 900 miles west of Portugal.

-It's the only place in the world

-where you'll find this bird.

-Pico was the last Azorean island

-to rise from the sea...

-..about 250,000 years ago.

-Pico is also the name

-of the island's volcano.

-It rises 7,700 feet above sea level.

-It's the highest peak

-in the Azores.

-It is also Portugal's highest peak.

-Pico has been dormant

-for around 300 years...

-..but evidence

-of volcanic activity remains.

-The stones are still hot.

-With a wet climate,

-steam is produced constantly.

-Pico's history is tied

-to two main industries...

-..wine production and whaling.

-Since the climate is warm and wet...

-..the abundance of fertile land

-is perfect for growing grapes.

-Vineyards have been set

-in small fields...

-..that are divided by walls

-made of volcanic stone.

-These walls provide shade

-from the strong Atlantic winds...

-..that often hit the island.

-Since the sea is deep and rich

-around Pico...

-..whales gather here.

-Whaling was once

-an important part of life on Pico.

-The hunters would spot the whales

-from the coast.

-Once spotted, and knowing they would

-stay in the same place to feed...

-..the hunters would sail out

-to kill the whales.

-Whales aren't hunted

-in the Azores now...

-..but locals still search for them

-off the coast...

-..and take tourists out to see them.

-That's how I've had

-the opportunity to swim with them...

-..and to see one of the world's

-largest creatures close-up.

-This is an amazing sight.

-Three sperm whales together.

-Not everyone

-is permitted to swim with them.

-This is a special privilege for me.

-To show them respect,

-I won't stay with them too long.

-There are two adults and one calf.

-And a dolphin!

-There's evidently something wrong

-with the dolphin.

-Look carefully, you can see

-how its spine is bent.

-I wonder why? Was it born like this?

-Has it been injured? Is it sick?

-Despite its problem, it seems happy

-to swim with the whales.

-It has made friends with the calf.

-That's an experience

-I never thought I'd have.

-Snorkelling in the sea

-with a sperm whale.

-A unique experience and I think

-we're going back in again.

-I'd better be quiet.

-They're tame.

-They're very tame...

-..but with one swipe of their tail,

-they could cause a lot of damage...

-..but they've decided not to.

-Sperm whales are the deepest divers

-of all the mammals.

-They can reach depths of two miles.

-A normal dive

-is between 300 and 600 metres.

-This requires the whale to hold

-its breath for around 90 minutes.

-They need a big breath

-before diving down to the depths.

-This is an experience

-I never thought I'd get.

-It's a unique experience.

-Before leaving the Azores,

-I want to see one more animal.

-I'm going to search for manta rays.

-They're the world's largest rays.

-They can measure over six metres

-across their bodies.

-They live in warmer seas.

-This is my last opportunity

-to see them...

-..before I travel to colder waters

-further north.

-It's another opportunity to see

-the clear, blue water.

-It's an other-worldly experience.

-It's almost unreal.

-An expanse of unending blue water.

-Suddenly, fish appear.

-This is a triggerfish.

-It's trying to identify the alien

-in its blue world.

-Here's a shoal of barracudas.

-They can be quite fierce...

-..but thankfully,

-they almost never attack humans.

-Besides, these are far enough away.

-Here's the main event.

-This is why I've travelled so far

-into the middle of the ocean.

-Wow! Look at these.

-These are manta rays.

-I've always wanted to swim

-with these in the sea.

-Here's my chance.

-That one came out of nowhere.

-It's turning around

-to get another look.

-There are at least

-half a dozen swimming together.

-Two remora fish

-have latched on to this one.

-They're having a free ride.

-They also eat any food

-that passes the ray's mouth.

-They're like red kites underwater.

-They glide effortlessly and slowly

-through the blue water.

-It's incredible to be so close.

-It's a large creature,

-far larger than I expected.

-They roam the seas.

-It's quite shallow underneath me -

-around 30 metres deep.

-Either side,

-it plummets to 2,000 metres.

-There's a lot of food here...

-..plankton and minute creatures.

-That's what they eat.

-They glide through the water

-with their mouths open.

-They gather up all the plankton.

-Seeing them on TV and seeing

-pictures of them in books...

-..is very different

-to being in the water with them.

-They leave as quickly

-as they arrived.

-They disappear into the blue ocean.

-It's time to leave the Azores

-and the wealth of wildlife...

-..that lives in the ocean

-around the islands.

-My next stop is Portugal.

-I'll walk

-along the magnificent coast...

-..and see

-some of Europe's rarest birds.

-It's a huge bird.

-I saw some flying

-and they make a swan look small.

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-I'm exploring nature

-in countries facing the Atlantic.

-Having left the Azores,

-I'm travelling 900 miles east...

-..to Portugal

-on the European mainland.

-I've reached the Algarve, derived

-from the Arabic word al-gharb...

-..which means the western land.

-This is Europe's

-most south-westerly point.

-Cabo de Sao Vicente,

-or Cape St Vincent.

-On a stormy winter's night,

-I can imagine it's a wild place.

-Thankfully,

-it's very pleasant today.

-You can't go further south-west

-on the European mainland than here.

-It's a great place.

-The lighthouse

-acts as a beacon for ships.

-During Roman times, it was called

-the edge of the world...

-..where the sea boiled red

-at sunset.

-For them,

-this was the Empire's boundary.

-It was the end of their world.

-For me, it's the starting point

-of my journey along Western Europe.

-Cabo de Sao Vicente is famous

-as the starting point...

-..of pioneering

-Atlantic expeditions.

-In the 14th century,

-the area was home...

-..to Henry the Navigator's

-institute of seamanship.

-Here, his students learnt

-how to travel across the Atlantic.

-I'm staying on the mainland

-to explore the coast.

-I'm heading for Cabo Sardao, another

-peninsula 100 miles to the north.

-Apart from the southerly conditions

-and warm temperatures...

-..the views are similar

-to most of Europe's coastline.

-You'll find sandstone rocks

-and mudstone like this in Wales.

-The cliffs were shaped

-by geological movement...

-..over millions of years,

-creating great shapes.

-They are still being reshaped

-by the sea.

-It's a great location

-for birds to nest.

-CHITTERING

-I was sitting here

-enjoying the sunshine...

-..thinking how similar the coast is

-to parts of Pembrokeshire.

-Something you won't find

-in Pembrokeshire...

-..is the white stork.

-It's a bird I usually associate

-with farmland.

-It feeds on lizards and toads...

-..and nests in old trees

-or on barn roofs.

-This is the only place

-in the whole of Europe...

-..where they nest on cliff tops.

-You can get very close to them.

-Only when you do so do you realize

-how beautiful they are.

-They're wonderful birds.

-I'm here in March.

-There are eggs in the nests

-but no chicks.

-Some couples are still mating...

-..to strengthen the bond

-between the male and female.

-Cabo Sardao is striking.

-The blue Atlantic Ocean

-is the backdrop...

-..to a bird that's arguably

-one of Portugal's rarest.

-This is the only place in the world

-where they nest on the coastline.

-I'm travelling inland...

-..to explore two characteristic

-habitats of this part of Portugal.

-On the way,

-I see storks nesting on poles.

-This is how most nest...

-..not only in Portugal

-but across the whole of Europe.

-I'm heading

-for the Portuguese steppes...

-..a vast expanse of open land

-with incredible wildlife.

-First, I'm visiting

-a special woodland.

-This habitat is associated

-with this part of southern Portugal.

-The locals call it montado -

-open woodland.

-In truth,

-this is a traditional farm...

-..but it's a habitat

-that sustains rich wildlife.

-This unique habitat relies

-on one tree - the cork oak.

-They harvest the cork from the bark.

-They wait until the tree

-is at least 40 years old.

-If they harvested before that,

-the tree would die.

-On the first harvest,

-the cork is low in quality.

-When they harvest

-for the second and third time...

-..the cork is very special.

-It's the cork you'll find

-in the tops of wine bottles.

-It has been harvested

-from here to here.

-The bark is very thick.

-This tree bears the number six.

-The last time they harvested

-this tree was in 2006.

-They harvest every nine years.

-They will return to this tree

-in 2015.

-The unique bark of the cork oak...

-..protects it from winter frosts

-and the frequent fires...

-..that can happen

-during the hot summer months.

-Most species of trees die

-if the bark is removed...

-..because the bark is living

-and stores the trees' sap.

-The cork oak has two layers of bark.

-The internal bark is alive

-and regrows every year.

-When the old bark is pushed out,

-it dies and turns into cork.

-Because it's dead, it can be cut

-without harming the tree.

-I'm travelling further inland.

-I'm heading for Castro Verde.

-Here, I'll find another habitat

-characteristic of southern Portugal.

-It's a wonderful open landscape

-with small hills, trees and pasture.

-On the flat areas,

-there's a combination...

-..of ploughed land and pasture.

-This is steppe land.

-There are hundreds

-of acres of it here.

-In March, wild flowers grow here.

-They thrive here

-because of the rain...

-..which arrives from the Atlantic

-during Portugal's early spring.

-This is a rare sight

-throughout the whole of Europe.

-It's a protected area.

-It's managed

-by a conservation society...

-..that has bought a farm

-in the middle of the steppe land.

-This is the society's centre.

-They've bought a farm

-with over 1,000 acres...

-..in the middle of the steppe land.

-As farmland,

-it was intensively farmed.

-Since they bought it,

-the situation has changed.

-They have a farmer to manage

-the land, which is important.

-He leaves some land where grass

-and flowers are allowed to grow.

-He ploughs some of the land

-to grow oats and corn...

-..for the farmer and the birds.

-The society itself

-also does a lot of work.

-Can you see the tower

-in the distance?

-It was built for the lesser kestrel,

-a very rare bird.

-It's full of holes

-in which they nest.

-A lot of work has been done here...

-..and it has been a great success.

-It takes me back

-to when I was young.

-I used to walk through fields packed

-with flowers, insects and birds.

-I can hear the song

-of a corn bunting.

-There are only two pairs

-of these in Wales.

-There are hundreds

-in one place here.

-It's a rich habitat

-that attracts a variety of birds.

-The Montagu's harrier is one

-of Castro Verde's birds of prey.

-This is the female...

-..and this is the male.

-It looks different

-and is smaller too.

-It's putting on a display

-to attract the hen.

-A dance to prove

-that it's worthy of her.

-There are numerous places

-for lesser kestrels to nest.

-You can see the birds more clearly

-from the nearby hides.

-This bird comes from

-Mediterranean countries.

-Its numbers have dwindled

-dramatically over the past century.

-In Portugal, the most concentrated

-population can be found here...

-..in the Castro Verde region.

-There were hundreds in Portugal.

-There were thousands at one point,

-down to hundreds about 20 years ago.

-The population decreased

-to around 150.

-Since then, conservation work

-has been carried out in this area...

-..and the numbers here

-have risen to over 400.

-What the conservationists

-have done here...

-..is build several buildings

-with holes in the walls.

-This kestrel is a social nester.

-Sometimes, you'll find

-a dozen or more pairs together...

-..in an old building.

-This is ideal for them.

-There has been investment

-in local farms...

-..to farm the land as it would

-have been farmed decades ago.

-Crops such as oats and corn

-are being grown.

-This helps attract

-all kinds of insects.

-The lesser kestrels

-feed on the insects and mice.

-The male lesser kestrel

-is a very attractive bird.

-The female is similar

-to our native female kestrel.

-The male, like the kestrel,

-has no spots whatsoever.

-The orange-brown and blue colours

-are very bright.

-Over 20 pairs nest in this building.

-When they fly together,

-it's a remarkable sight.

-This is a great sight, but there is

-an even more impressive one.

-We'll see it after the break.

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-I've reached Castro Verde

-in Portugal.

-It's a special inland habitat.

-The steppe land is a combination

-of ploughed land and pasture.

-It's one of Portugal's

-largest nature reserves.

-It covers over 4,000 acres.

-Castro Verde is home

-to a very special bird.

-I'm going to look for it

-with Marisa Gomes...

-..who works for the society

-that looks after the reserve.

-It's one of the most majestic birds

-in the world, but it can be shy.

-What's the plan?

-Over the hill? See what we see?

-We're looking for the great bustard.

-I saw it when I visited Portugal

-about 20 years ago.

-I promise you it will give us

-an impressive display.

-They used to eat them.

-They hunted them

-because there were many.

-Quite common birds and probably

-quite nice birds to eat.

-Have you ever eaten one?

-Have you ever eaten one?

-

-No. My father did.

-Did he? Oh, wow.

-What's in the fields over there?

-Great bustards.

-That's what they are, up there.

-How many are there then?

-Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. One, two...

-..three, four, five.

-They're big birds,

-aren't they, in the air?

-I prefer them in the air

-than on the ground.

-Marisa has brought me over

-to a part of the reserve...

-..where a large population

-of great bustards can be found.

-There's a small group

-of male birds here.

-We hope they start to display

-because it's an impressive sight.

-They open their tails and puff up

-their bright white chests.

-When they do that,

-they can be seen for miles.

-That's the whole point

-of the display - to attract females.

-It's also a way of keeping away

-other males.

-It's a means of identifying

-the strongest male...

-..and ultimately, the one

-that will mate with the females.

-They're amazing birds -

-they're huge.

-I've seen some in flight.

-They make a swan look small.

-They're the heaviest flying birds

-in the whole of Europe.

-They're the heaviest flying birds

-in Europe, I think.

-They're bigger than a turkey.

-On we go. It's going to be

-a game of cat and mouse.

-They're going to move,

-we're going to move.

-We'll have to be more patient...

-..before we see the show.

-The steppe land

-covers a large area...

-..but they usually gather

-in groups of 20 to 30 birds.

-Look, full display.

-The beginning of the display.

-They walk...

-Slowly.

-With the tail up...

-..showing the white.

-There's another male,

-to the right, joining in. See him?

-The sun is shining on the area

-where they're displaying.

-You can see the bright

-white feathers so clearly.

-You can see the display

-from miles away.

-It's as if someone's holding

-a mirror up to reflect the sunlight.

-Here's the display.

-Many say their best display

-can be seen when the sun shines.

-When the land lights up,

-the birds use it to full effect.

-The white tail feathers

-shine brightly to attract females.

-The head almost disappears

-when the display is in full flow...

-..since the breast

-is pumped up so much.

-This ritual is done

-for mating purposes.

-The largest, strongest and brightest

-attracts the females.

-It's a striking display,

-especially against this backdrop.

-After losing their habitat

-and being hunted for their meat...

-..bustards are very rare in Europe.

-They can only survive

-in nature reserves such as this...

-..because there's plenty of room

-and food for them here.

-In the past,

-landscapes like this were common...

-..over all of Western Europe,

-from north to south.

-Rich pasture land...

-..that received its moisture

-from the Atlantic Ocean.

-Next week, my journey continues

-in Gibraltar and Spain.

-I'll see thousands of birds

-migrating.

-I'll visit Europe's largest wetland.

-I'll come face-to-face

-with vultures...

-..and see

-the world's rarest wild cat.

-I was just walking by

-and what did I see - a lynx.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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