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-Wales is a treasure trove -of special buildings. | 0:00:00 | 0:00:03 | |
-In this series, -I'll step back through the ages... | 0:00:04 | 0:00:07 | |
-..to visit several of them... | 0:00:07 | 0:00:09 | |
-..from early hall houses... | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
-..to the modern house. | 0:00:13 | 0:00:15 | |
-We can learn much -from studying history... | 0:00:16 | 0:00:19 | |
-..but only by studying -architectural history... | 0:00:19 | 0:00:23 | |
-..can we form a picture -of how people lived from era to era. | 0:00:24 | 0:00:28 | |
-Welcome -to Cartrefi Cefn Gwlad Cymru. | 0:00:28 | 0:00:30 | |
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-This remarkable book -was published 30 years ago. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:17 | |
-Houses Of The Welsh Countryside -is the work of the Royal Commission. | 0:01:17 | 0:01:22 | |
-This is the bible -of traditional Welsh architecture... | 0:01:23 | 0:01:26 | |
-..and a milestone -in our understanding of it... | 0:01:27 | 0:01:32 | |
-..and of our understanding -of British vernacular buildings. | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
-It was the first systematic study -of the history of Welsh buildings. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:48 | |
-It remains the best book -on the subject today. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:55 | |
-Many other countries, -including our closest neighbours... | 0:01:55 | 0:02:00 | |
-..don't have such resources -to refer to. | 0:02:00 | 0:02:03 | |
-In this series, I'll tell the story -of Welsh architecture... | 0:02:06 | 0:02:10 | |
-..as featured -in Peter Smith's amazing book. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:14 | |
-In this programme, I look -at the earliest medieval houses... | 0:02:22 | 0:02:26 | |
-..and visit -some of Wales's finest examples. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:29 | |
-The Royal Commission in Wales... | 0:02:35 | 0:02:38 | |
-..has no record of a house -dating from before 1400. | 0:02:38 | 0:02:41 | |
-This cut-off seems fundamental. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:44 | |
-Obviously, there were great houses -before 1400... | 0:02:44 | 0:02:48 | |
-..but we have no evidence of them. | 0:02:48 | 0:02:50 | |
-That absence of houses -can probably be attributed... | 0:02:51 | 0:02:55 | |
-..to the devastating effect -of Owain Glyndwr's rebellion. | 0:02:55 | 0:02:59 | |
-Houses built after the rebellion -were hall houses. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:03 | |
-Hall houses are splendid, -open homes... | 0:03:10 | 0:03:13 | |
-..that existed during -an exciting period in Welsh history. | 0:03:13 | 0:03:18 | |
-This was the era of the patricians -and the poets sponsored by them. | 0:03:18 | 0:03:23 | |
-It was also when carpenters -developed their incredible craft. | 0:03:23 | 0:03:28 | |
-The Royal Commission on the Ancient -and Historical Monuments of Wales... | 0:03:31 | 0:03:37 | |
-..in Aberystwyth -is our starting point. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:40 | |
-The Commission investigates -and archives historical monuments. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:45 | |
-Houses Of The Welsh Countryside's -author, Peter Smith, says... | 0:03:48 | 0:03:53 | |
-..that this is the most important -map in the whole book. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:57 | |
-It notes the distribution -of tower houses... | 0:03:57 | 0:04:00 | |
-..which were -fortified medieval dwellings. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
-This map -covers the whole of Britain. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:07 | |
-It indicates that various -architectural features... | 0:04:07 | 0:04:11 | |
-..weren't common -to all parts of Britain. | 0:04:11 | 0:04:15 | |
-Why was this? | 0:04:15 | 0:04:16 | |
-Scotland and Ireland -had lots of tower houses... | 0:04:17 | 0:04:22 | |
-..but they were rare in Wales, -which was a peaceful nation. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:27 | |
-Welsh houses were associated -with hospitality and entertainment. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:32 | |
-The architecture of hall houses -developed into a high craft form... | 0:04:32 | 0:04:37 | |
-..that was found in the dwellings -of lords and peasants alike. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:41 | |
-That remarkable fact is the crux -of Houses Of The Welsh Countryside. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:47 | |
-The first hall house we visit... | 0:04:53 | 0:04:55 | |
-..is Ty Mawr, -near Castle Caereinion. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:59 | |
-It's one of the best surviving -hall houses in Wales. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:04 | |
-It dates back to 1460. | 0:05:04 | 0:05:06 | |
-Who would live in a house like this? | 0:05:13 | 0:05:15 | |
-It would have been -the home of local gentry. | 0:05:16 | 0:05:20 | |
-It was someone -halfway up the social ladder. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:24 | |
-He would have made his money -from farming. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:28 | |
-He probably farmed cattle and sheep. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:31 | |
-In that respect, -he was quite self-sufficient. | 0:05:32 | 0:05:35 | |
-Naturally, professionals -would have built the house. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:39 | |
-We might expect a stone house, -but this is timber-framed. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:44 | |
-Yes, timber-framed houses -were common in the 15th century. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:50 | |
-They were built across Wales -in medieval times. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
-Timber-framed houses were the norm -and wood was in plentiful supply. | 0:05:54 | 0:05:59 | |
-It's a misconception that Wales -was a land of stone houses. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:03 | |
-Were any other types of houses -built in the 15th century? | 0:06:04 | 0:06:08 | |
-No, they were all hall houses, -as far as we know. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:13 | |
-They varied in size, complexity -and decoration... | 0:06:13 | 0:06:17 | |
-..but, essentially, -everyone lived in a hall house. | 0:06:17 | 0:06:20 | |
-The houses of the poor have vanished -and we know nothing about them. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:25 | |
-The Grade I listing -of Ty Mawr is remarkable. | 0:06:30 | 0:06:33 | |
-In the early 1970s, -it resembled a dilapidated barn. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:39 | |
-It was earmarked as a historic -building by the Royal Commission. | 0:06:46 | 0:06:51 | |
-Cadw then instigated -its restoration in 1998. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:54 | |
-According to Peter Smith... | 0:06:55 | 0:06:57 | |
-..Ty Mawr was one of the most -important discoveries of his career. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:02 | |
-We can now appreciate how it looked -when it was built in 1460. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:07 | |
-We're standing in the open hearth, -in the centre of the building. | 0:07:09 | 0:07:14 | |
-It's one of the main features -of a hall house. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:17 | |
-We're standing on the site -of the original open hearth. | 0:07:17 | 0:07:22 | |
-That fireplace was added -150 years later. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:28 | |
-It's irrelevant to us. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:30 | |
-The staircase is modern too. | 0:07:31 | 0:07:33 | |
-This is an open hall house. | 0:07:33 | 0:07:35 | |
-The owner, who was a member -of the gentry, would live here. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:40 | |
-He would live his public life -in this space. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:44 | |
-The top table would be behind us. | 0:07:44 | 0:07:46 | |
-The servants, the family -and members of the public... | 0:07:47 | 0:07:50 | |
-..would be around him here. | 0:07:51 | 0:07:53 | |
-His wife and his close relatives... | 0:07:53 | 0:07:55 | |
-..lived their private lives -behind the dais screen. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:59 | |
-At the bottom end of the house, -there would be a parlour... | 0:08:00 | 0:08:04 | |
-..or, in some cases, a byre. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:07 | |
-This was a three-unit hall house. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
-The crucks support this building. | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
-That's typical of a hall house. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
-What can you tell us about these? | 0:08:21 | 0:08:22 | |
-What can you tell us about these? - -This house has one pair of crucks. | 0:08:22 | 0:08:25 | |
-They're arched timber crucks. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:27 | |
-These crucks usually start -at floor level... | 0:08:27 | 0:08:31 | |
-..and reach the roof apex. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:33 | |
-These were very common -in medieval times. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
-This was the normal way -of constructing a building. | 0:08:37 | 0:08:40 | |
-Timber crucks -follow the tree's natural shape. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:44 | |
-You simply slice a tree in half, -down the middle... | 0:08:44 | 0:08:48 | |
-..to create a pair of crucks. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:50 | |
-The process of creating a cruck -starts before you fell the tree. | 0:09:05 | 0:09:09 | |
-Finding a suitable tree -is half the battle. | 0:09:10 | 0:09:13 | |
-You must select a tree -that has a sturdy branch... | 0:09:13 | 0:09:17 | |
-..and cut the crucks -from this section. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:20 | |
-You then slot them together -to create a pair of crucks. | 0:09:21 | 0:09:25 | |
-Crucks are a sign that Welsh -medieval houses have survived. | 0:09:30 | 0:09:35 | |
-To appreciate the dominance -of timber houses in Wales... | 0:09:35 | 0:09:40 | |
-..simply study the maps -in Houses Of The Welsh Countryside. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:44 | |
-If we turn to the maps... | 0:09:45 | 0:09:47 | |
-..we see different building patterns -in Wales through the ages. | 0:09:47 | 0:09:52 | |
-This one shows cruck-framed houses -in Wales. | 0:09:52 | 0:09:55 | |
-You can draw a line -from Machynlleth to Newport. | 0:09:55 | 0:09:59 | |
-Most cruck-framed houses were built -north and east of that line. | 0:10:01 | 0:10:06 | |
-Let's look at another map. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:10 | |
-This map shows the location -of stone-vaulted houses. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:15 | |
-These were primarily built -in Pembrokeshire. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:18 | |
-It's a national pattern -of architecture. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:23 | |
-The maps were vital -to Peter Smith's research. | 0:10:28 | 0:10:31 | |
-But why were they so important? | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
-From these maps, -we can see for the first time... | 0:10:38 | 0:10:41 | |
-..that Wales has many -architectural personalities. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:45 | |
-These come to light -on a regional basis. | 0:10:47 | 0:10:50 | |
-Things that appear very basic -to us today... | 0:10:51 | 0:10:55 | |
-..were groundbreaking in 1975. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:58 | |
-At that time, -these findings were revolutionary. | 0:10:58 | 0:11:02 | |
-Another defining feature of a hall -house is the cross-passage. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:15 | |
-There are doors opposite each other -at both ends. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:19 | |
-There was no chimney, so smoke -escaped through doors and windows. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:23 | |
-The original beams -are smoke-blackened. | 0:11:24 | 0:11:27 | |
-Another important feature -of Ty Mawr is its aisle posts. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:36 | |
-This post and the truss -that supports it... | 0:11:37 | 0:11:40 | |
-..create an aisle -on either side of the open hall. | 0:11:40 | 0:11:46 | |
-It gives it an ecclesiastical feel. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:50 | |
-The crucks -create a feeling of space... | 0:11:56 | 0:11:59 | |
-..but aisle posts used more wood -and were more expensive to build. | 0:11:59 | 0:12:05 | |
-This gentleman expressed his status -by spending money. | 0:12:06 | 0:12:11 | |
-By this point in Welsh history... | 0:12:15 | 0:12:17 | |
-..you needed a licence to build -anything that resembled a castle. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:23 | |
-Houses were no longer fortified. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:25 | |
-But there was no bar -on borrowing castle imagery... | 0:12:26 | 0:12:31 | |
-..such as these crenellations, -and using them as decorations. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:35 | |
-The top of this pillar -looks like a castle turret. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
-Ty Mawr is an important hall house. | 0:12:54 | 0:12:57 | |
-However, hall houses changed -over time, but in what way? | 0:12:57 | 0:13:02 | |
-. | 0:13:07 | 0:13:07 | |
-888 | 0:13:10 | 0:13:10 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:13:10 | 0:13:12 | |
-Ty Mawr was the home -of local gentry... | 0:13:28 | 0:13:31 | |
-..but this one -belonged to a higher class. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:36 | |
-Don't be fooled -by the agricultural equipment. | 0:13:36 | 0:13:40 | |
-Some splendid halls -are part of the agricultural world. | 0:13:40 | 0:13:44 | |
-Architecurally, -Bryndraenog was astonishing. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:48 | |
-It reflected the ambition -of the man who built it. | 0:13:48 | 0:13:52 | |
-According to Peter Smith, -on behalf of the Royal Commission... | 0:13:52 | 0:13:56 | |
-..this was the most glorious -timber-framed hall in Wales. | 0:13:57 | 0:14:01 | |
-Much of that external timber -has now vanished. | 0:14:02 | 0:14:05 | |
-Bryndraenog was built -in the lordship of Maelienydd... | 0:14:16 | 0:14:20 | |
-..in the county of Buddugre, -here in Cwmyrhingyll. | 0:14:20 | 0:14:24 | |
-There's a clue -in the name Cwmyrhingyll. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:27 | |
-The rhingyll, or the reeve... | 0:14:27 | 0:14:29 | |
-..was responsible for the judicial -administration of the lord. | 0:14:30 | 0:14:34 | |
-The reeve, Llywelyn Fychan ab Ieuan, -built Bryndraenog in 1436. | 0:14:39 | 0:14:46 | |
-He had connections -with the Duke of York... | 0:14:46 | 0:14:49 | |
-..the father of Edward IV -and Richard III. | 0:14:50 | 0:14:52 | |
-This hall has important -and influential connections. | 0:14:53 | 0:14:57 | |
-This hall had lordship status -and poets performed here. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:04 | |
-It was magnificent in its day. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:07 | |
-It's hard to imagine how this -looked when it was first built. | 0:15:09 | 0:15:14 | |
-We must ignore the central section, -which is a 17th century addition. | 0:15:16 | 0:15:21 | |
-This was originally a hall, -with outer wings at both ends. | 0:15:21 | 0:15:25 | |
-What makes this house -truly remarkable... | 0:15:25 | 0:15:28 | |
-..is the exceptional storeyed porch -with a first-floor room. | 0:15:28 | 0:15:34 | |
-It proves that the house -had two storeys from the outset. | 0:15:34 | 0:15:38 | |
-Look at the size of this porch -and its amazing timber. | 0:15:40 | 0:15:43 | |
-These trees were felled -over 500 years ago. | 0:15:44 | 0:15:47 | |
-You can see every hard winter -we've had since it was built! | 0:15:47 | 0:15:51 | |
-The porch establishes -the owner's status. | 0:15:52 | 0:15:55 | |
-Here we are in the main hall, Alwyn. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:15 | |
-It's big now, but was even bigger -when it was originally built. | 0:16:16 | 0:16:21 | |
-Yes, indeed. | 0:16:21 | 0:16:22 | |
-This would have been one big room. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:25 | |
-The gallery we now see wasn't here. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:28 | |
-It's rather imposing. | 0:16:29 | 0:16:30 | |
-The wall behind you -isn't original either. | 0:16:30 | 0:16:34 | |
-The top table, where the master -feasted and held court, was there. | 0:16:35 | 0:16:41 | |
-There was an open hearth here, -which is hard to believe. | 0:16:42 | 0:16:46 | |
-This wall wasn't here either. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:51 | |
-The room went all the way back -to that panelled wall. | 0:16:51 | 0:16:55 | |
-Look at it for a minute and you -can read this place like a book. | 0:16:55 | 0:16:59 | |
-The crucks make this really special. | 0:16:59 | 0:17:02 | |
-There are three bays here. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:05 | |
-The crucks which go all the way -to the roof apex... | 0:17:05 | 0:17:09 | |
-..are both very rare and amazing. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:12 | |
-The original ceiling -was made entirely of timber. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:17 | |
-It must have looked incredible. | 0:17:18 | 0:17:20 | |
-This is a gem - it's all still here, -but it's now hidden. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:24 | |
-Today, we can use computer graphics -to interpret old houses. | 0:17:31 | 0:17:35 | |
-It's an effective way to appreciate -how Bryndraenog originally looked. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:41 | |
-The detail of the roof timbers -is breathtaking. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:45 | |
-These simulations take us through -the porch, into the cross-passage. | 0:17:50 | 0:17:55 | |
-As we enter the hall... | 0:17:55 | 0:17:56 | |
-..we experience what the lord saw -when he lived here 600 years ago. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:01 | |
-The open hearth, the top table... | 0:18:02 | 0:18:04 | |
-..and beyond the dais screen, -the owner's private chamber. | 0:18:04 | 0:18:08 | |
-The hall changed, over time... | 0:18:16 | 0:18:19 | |
-..and the gallery which was added -in 1636 is still here. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:23 | |
-It's impossible to overstate -the importance of the base crucks. | 0:18:38 | 0:18:43 | |
-This sort of architecture -was quite common in England... | 0:18:43 | 0:18:47 | |
-..but by the time this was built, -it was old hat across the border. | 0:18:47 | 0:18:52 | |
-Why was Bryndraenog built -in this way? | 0:18:52 | 0:18:55 | |
-The people who lived here -knew about English fashion... | 0:18:55 | 0:19:00 | |
-..so it was a conscious decision -to use this plan. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:04 | |
-The theory is that they strove -for a link with grand families. | 0:19:04 | 0:19:09 | |
-That depth of history you get -in old families and old houses. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:13 | |
-The types of houses that stood -in Owain Glyndwr's time. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:18 | |
-The modern carpets and plaster -ceilings of Bryndraenog... | 0:19:21 | 0:19:25 | |
-..mask the astonishing craftsmanship -of the carpenters that built it. | 0:19:25 | 0:19:30 | |
-If we look carefully, we can see -trefoiled tracery in the windows. | 0:19:30 | 0:19:36 | |
-There are delicate mouldings -and chamfers on the beams. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:42 | |
-As in Ty Mawr, there are -some crenellations here. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:46 | |
-We're in the left wing of the house, -which was the service wing. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:56 | |
-Is there anything different here? | 0:19:56 | 0:19:59 | |
-This part of the building -was erected in a different way. | 0:19:59 | 0:20:04 | |
-There are no crucks here. -It's what's known as a box-frame. | 0:20:04 | 0:20:08 | |
-The timbers are still huge, -but are shorter and easier to source. | 0:20:09 | 0:20:13 | |
-A box-frame is a more common -building technique. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:19 | |
-You have a corner post and a beam, -which supports the first floor. | 0:20:19 | 0:20:24 | |
-The trusses and the roof above -are separate. | 0:20:24 | 0:20:27 | |
-They're not part of the frame, -as in a cruck-framed house. | 0:20:28 | 0:20:32 | |
-An early poem -by Ieuan ap Hywel Swrdwal... | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
-..in praise of Llywelyn ab Ieuan -of Bryndraenog... | 0:20:50 | 0:20:54 | |
-..is testament to the hall's status. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:58 | |
-Dr Dylan Foster Evans -knows a lot about this poem. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:01 | |
-How common was it for poets -to perform at medieval halls? | 0:21:03 | 0:21:08 | |
-When this poem was written -and this house was built... | 0:21:10 | 0:21:14 | |
-..was on the eve of a very -productive period for the poets. | 0:21:15 | 0:21:20 | |
-By the 1440s and 1450s, dozens -of poets visit dozens of houses... | 0:21:20 | 0:21:25 | |
-..throughout the whole of Wales. | 0:21:25 | 0:21:28 | |
-The 15th century, -more than any other century... | 0:21:28 | 0:21:31 | |
-..was the golden era -of Welsh poetry. | 0:21:32 | 0:21:35 | |
-Poets liked to think of themselves -as craftsmen. | 0:21:35 | 0:21:39 | |
-They used craftsmen's phraseology. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:41 | |
-Yes, they considered themselves -to be craftsmen. | 0:21:42 | 0:21:45 | |
-They often described their poetry -in building terms. | 0:21:46 | 0:21:50 | |
-They sang about axes -and plumb lines. | 0:21:50 | 0:21:53 | |
-They used the image -of the set square... | 0:21:53 | 0:21:56 | |
-..to express the perfection -of their poetry. | 0:21:59 | 0:22:03 | |
-This very rich imagery -comes from the carpenter's tools. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:08 | |
-What does Ieuan ap Hywel Swrdwal -say about this house in his poem? | 0:22:10 | 0:22:15 | |
-Maybe we should look -at the poem itself. | 0:22:16 | 0:22:19 | |
-It's over 500 years old, -so parts are difficult to decipher. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:24 | |
-The incredible thing is... | 0:22:25 | 0:22:27 | |
-..there are parts of it -that are easily understandable. | 0:22:27 | 0:22:31 | |
-"There is patronage here for us, -in this strath of windows." | 0:22:33 | 0:22:38 | |
-The windows that he saw are still -here, which is truly amazing. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:43 | |
-"The duke has many houses -but none shall discipline him." | 0:22:44 | 0:22:48 | |
-None of those houses -are greater than Bryndraenog... | 0:22:49 | 0:22:53 | |
-..or dominate it in any way. | 0:22:54 | 0:22:57 | |
-I can't leave without having a look -at the glorious roof. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:05 | |
-It's concealed by the plasterwork, -of course. | 0:23:06 | 0:23:09 | |
-I feel a little bit -like Indiana Jones! | 0:23:10 | 0:23:12 | |
-Here we are. We're in the roof. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:25 | |
-I'm looking down, along the roof. | 0:23:26 | 0:23:28 | |
-Well, how wonderful! | 0:23:29 | 0:23:31 | |
-I can see through the crucks, -all the way to the far end. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:36 | |
-That's incredible. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:38 | |
-Some of those cusped wind-braces -are still in place. | 0:23:41 | 0:23:45 | |
-That one, for example. | 0:23:48 | 0:23:50 | |
-Here's another one. | 0:23:52 | 0:23:53 | |
-It has fallen down. | 0:23:54 | 0:23:55 | |
-This piece of wood -and its decorative section... | 0:23:56 | 0:23:59 | |
-..is almost 600 years old. | 0:24:01 | 0:24:02 | |
-It's truly amazing. | 0:24:03 | 0:24:05 | |
-. | 0:24:09 | 0:24:09 | |
-888 | 0:24:12 | 0:24:12 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:24:12 | 0:24:14 | |
-We've now moved north, -to the Llandudno area. | 0:24:28 | 0:24:31 | |
-This is the ancestral home -of the Mostyn family... | 0:24:31 | 0:24:35 | |
-..an influential family -in both Wales and England. | 0:24:35 | 0:24:39 | |
-This is Gloddaeth Hall. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:41 | |
-It's surrounded by buildings -from various periods... | 0:24:42 | 0:24:46 | |
-..but the hall -is our main point of interest. | 0:24:46 | 0:24:49 | |
-Gloddaeth was built of stone. -There is no timber in these walls. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:54 | |
-It makes -an intentionally robust statement. | 0:24:55 | 0:24:58 | |
-The Mostyn family -were important landowners. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:08 | |
-They apparently flourished after -championing Henry VII at Bosworth. | 0:25:08 | 0:25:13 | |
-Their wealth can be seen -in the walls of Gloddaeth Hall... | 0:25:14 | 0:25:17 | |
-..which was built -in the early 16th century. | 0:25:18 | 0:25:21 | |
-So far, we've focused -on timber-framed halls. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:27 | |
-Gloddaeth Hall is a blend -of traditional carpentry... | 0:25:28 | 0:25:32 | |
-..and stone construction. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:34 | |
-This is the first time we've seen -a hall in its purest form. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:42 | |
-There's nothing here to detract -from the original, simple form. | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
-This is also the first -end-passage house that we've seen. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:51 | |
-The cross-passage runs along -the building's most westerly point. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:56 | |
-There is no service wing -beyond the passage. | 0:25:56 | 0:25:59 | |
-This was the original size -of the hall. | 0:26:00 | 0:26:02 | |
-At the far end, -we have the all-important step. | 0:26:04 | 0:26:08 | |
-It's only a couple of inches high... | 0:26:09 | 0:26:12 | |
-..but it separated the lord -from the peasants. | 0:26:13 | 0:26:17 | |
-There was a wall and a gallery -in Bryndraenog. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:20 | |
-In Ty Mawr, a chimney -and a staircase had been added. | 0:26:20 | 0:26:25 | |
-This is the first time -we've stepped to the top table. | 0:26:25 | 0:26:28 | |
-The windows are huge, -considering when they were built. | 0:26:29 | 0:26:34 | |
-They were a declaration of affluence -by the owners. | 0:26:34 | 0:26:38 | |
-Apart from the windows, -the main feature is this mural. | 0:26:44 | 0:26:49 | |
-It proudly shows -the Tudor coat of arms. | 0:26:50 | 0:26:52 | |
-At the other end, there is a mural -and a 17th century gallery. | 0:26:53 | 0:26:58 | |
-Unlike many other halls... | 0:27:08 | 0:27:10 | |
-..there was never an open hearth -in the middle of the floor. | 0:27:11 | 0:27:15 | |
-This hall was built -with this splendid fireplace... | 0:27:15 | 0:27:19 | |
-..as part of the architecture. | 0:27:19 | 0:27:21 | |
-It displays the family coat of arms -both here and on the fireguard. | 0:27:22 | 0:27:27 | |
-This is the Mostyn family motto. | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
-Without God, without anything. -God is enough. Amen. | 0:27:30 | 0:27:34 | |
-Below it, there's a French motto. | 0:27:34 | 0:27:37 | |
-Honi soit qui mal y pense... | 0:27:37 | 0:27:39 | |
-..shame be to him -who thinks evil of it. | 0:27:39 | 0:27:43 | |
-Apparently, Henry VII hid -up this chimney at some point. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:48 | |
-You can stand in there, -so it may be true. | 0:27:48 | 0:27:50 | |
-How much timber would you need -to create this roof? | 0:28:11 | 0:28:15 | |
-A dozen large trees. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:17 | |
-It probably took 20 smaller trees -to create the panels. | 0:28:17 | 0:28:21 | |
-The trees used -would be centuries old. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:25 | |
-The grain of the wood -on the end of each hammer beam... | 0:28:25 | 0:28:29 | |
-..shows that the trees used in those -were about 150 years old. | 0:28:29 | 0:28:33 | |
-Welsh oak trees grow quite slowly. | 0:28:34 | 0:28:36 | |
-They are slow-growing trees... | 0:28:37 | 0:28:40 | |
-..compared with the French -and Dutch oak trees we see today. | 0:28:41 | 0:28:45 | |
-Welsh oak tends to be hard -and extremely heavy. | 0:28:46 | 0:28:50 | |
-It takes a strong roof -to hold the weight of the wood. | 0:28:51 | 0:28:55 | |
-Some are arched, as you can see. | 0:28:56 | 0:28:58 | |
-You see that in oak trees today. | 0:28:59 | 0:29:01 | |
-Welsh oaks are arched -against the prevailing west wind. | 0:29:01 | 0:29:05 | |
-The're ideally suitable for ships, -crucks and roofs like this. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:11 | |
-It gives the hall -a very organic shape. | 0:29:11 | 0:29:15 | |
-Because the oak trees -are naturally arched? | 0:29:15 | 0:29:19 | |
-They treated the trees to ensure -that they grew with an arch... | 0:29:19 | 0:29:24 | |
-..so that they could use them -for roofs like this. | 0:29:24 | 0:29:27 | |
-Are there clues here to tell us -how this roof was constructed? | 0:29:29 | 0:29:33 | |
-The timber has darkened -quite considerably... | 0:29:33 | 0:29:37 | |
-..both by smoke and by time... | 0:29:37 | 0:29:39 | |
-..but you can see marks made by -tools such as saws and chisels. | 0:29:39 | 0:29:44 | |
-You can also see marks... | 0:29:47 | 0:29:48 | |
-..where the wood was split -in the coppice. | 0:29:49 | 0:29:52 | |
-Some of the trees -were long, straight oaks... | 0:29:52 | 0:29:57 | |
-..which were then quartered, -I should imagine. | 0:29:57 | 0:30:02 | |
-How do you know that? | 0:30:03 | 0:30:04 | |
-How do you know that? - -I know that from experience. | 0:30:04 | 0:30:06 | |
-You can see tear marks -on the face of the purlin. | 0:30:06 | 0:30:10 | |
-Those are the telltale marks. | 0:30:10 | 0:30:14 | |
-Hendre'r Ywydd Uchaf -is now at St Fagans. | 0:30:37 | 0:30:41 | |
-It was moved to the museum -from the Vale of Clwyd. | 0:30:41 | 0:30:45 | |
-We often think of the hall house -as a grand gentry house... | 0:30:48 | 0:30:52 | |
-..with a magnificent open space. | 0:30:52 | 0:30:55 | |
-As Houses Of The Welsh Countryside -has proved... | 0:30:55 | 0:30:59 | |
-..rather than being -an aristocratic dwelling... | 0:30:59 | 0:31:02 | |
-..the hall house -is a typical, medieval Welsh house. | 0:31:03 | 0:31:06 | |
-Few examples of cruck-framed -peasant halls have survived. | 0:31:17 | 0:31:21 | |
-Those that have survived -follow the same pattern. | 0:31:21 | 0:31:25 | |
-A single-bay hall, -a parlour at the top end... | 0:31:25 | 0:31:29 | |
-..a passage and, unusually here, -a byre at the bottom. | 0:31:29 | 0:31:34 | |
-Four oak crucks support the roof -of Hendre'r Ywydd Uchaf. | 0:31:43 | 0:31:48 | |
-The walls don't support the roof. | 0:31:49 | 0:31:51 | |
-They have been limewashed, -as was common practice. | 0:31:51 | 0:31:55 | |
-The structural framing wasn't used -as external decoration... | 0:31:56 | 0:32:00 | |
-..until the 16th century. | 0:32:02 | 0:32:03 | |
-When you mention a hall house, -people expect to see something huge. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:18 | |
-This is a hall house... | 0:32:19 | 0:32:20 | |
-..and what defines it as such -is the open hearth. | 0:32:20 | 0:32:24 | |
-We've touched on this many times... | 0:32:24 | 0:32:27 | |
-..but this is the first example -we've seen. | 0:32:27 | 0:32:30 | |
-It certainly proves -that it's a hall house. | 0:32:30 | 0:32:33 | |
-We've seen everything -in this house before... | 0:32:33 | 0:32:36 | |
-..but this is on a smaller scale. | 0:32:36 | 0:32:39 | |
-We can touch the framework here -and appreciate its scale. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:44 | |
-I referred to this -as a peasant hall. | 0:33:01 | 0:33:03 | |
-Is that misleading? | 0:33:04 | 0:33:06 | |
-Yes, the word 'peasant' -can be misconstrued. | 0:33:06 | 0:33:10 | |
-A successful person built this. | 0:33:10 | 0:33:12 | |
-This person may not have had -financial wealth... | 0:33:12 | 0:33:16 | |
-..but they created enough produce -to eat well, to dress well... | 0:33:16 | 0:33:21 | |
-..and to have a social life. | 0:33:21 | 0:33:23 | |
-What about this house -leads you to believe that? | 0:33:23 | 0:33:28 | |
-It's big and it's well-built. | 0:33:28 | 0:33:30 | |
-It has survived since 1504, -so the structural work was sturdy. | 0:33:31 | 0:33:36 | |
-That's usually a good pointer. | 0:33:36 | 0:33:38 | |
-One important thing that cements -the house it in its period... | 0:33:38 | 0:33:43 | |
-..is that it has no windows. | 0:33:44 | 0:33:46 | |
-Natural light is an important part -of modern architecture. | 0:33:46 | 0:33:50 | |
-At this time, if it was light, -you would be outdoors. | 0:33:50 | 0:33:54 | |
-Airing the building and keeping -people warm were the priorities. | 0:33:55 | 0:33:59 | |
-These small openings are big enough -to expel the smoke. | 0:34:00 | 0:34:04 | |
-How would people live in this room? | 0:34:13 | 0:34:16 | |
-There were benches on either side -and light work would be done here. | 0:34:16 | 0:34:21 | |
-Herbs would be hung -from the roof to dry. | 0:34:21 | 0:34:24 | |
-Meat was also smoked there. | 0:34:25 | 0:34:27 | |
-Candles were created... | 0:34:28 | 0:34:29 | |
-..by using fat from the meat -which they cooked on the fire. | 0:34:30 | 0:34:34 | |
-A reed was pulled through the fat -to create a wick for the candle. | 0:34:34 | 0:34:38 | |
-People would weave and do -more intricate work in this space. | 0:34:39 | 0:34:43 | |
-Would this have been an earth floor? | 0:34:43 | 0:34:46 | |
-Would this have been an earth floor? - -Yes, earth and reeds. | 0:34:46 | 0:34:48 | |
-We think of 16th century people -as being smelly, like Baldrick... | 0:34:48 | 0:34:52 | |
-..but they used reeds and herbs, -which include oils such as citrus... | 0:34:53 | 0:34:57 | |
-..and they brushed the floor -with them to release the aroma. | 0:34:58 | 0:35:02 | |
-It sweetened the air. | 0:35:02 | 0:35:04 | |
-By the time the peasants -caught up with the latest fashion... | 0:35:18 | 0:35:22 | |
-..the gentry who had lived in halls -for some time had moved on. | 0:35:22 | 0:35:27 | |
-What sort of houses did they build? | 0:35:27 | 0:35:29 | |
-. | 0:35:33 | 0:35:34 | |
-888 | 0:35:37 | 0:35:37 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:35:37 | 0:35:39 | |
-We've now reached -the north-west coast of Wales. | 0:36:11 | 0:36:14 | |
-This is Egryn Hall. | 0:36:14 | 0:36:16 | |
-When we enter the hall, -we step into a Victorian vestibule. | 0:36:16 | 0:36:20 | |
-It's beautiful, but far more modern -than the era we're discussing. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:25 | |
-But this was the cross-passage. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:27 | |
-The door opposite this one -has disappeared. | 0:36:27 | 0:36:31 | |
-Everything at the bottom end -has also disappeared... | 0:36:31 | 0:36:35 | |
-..and been rebuilt at a later date. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:38 | |
-This really is a hall house. | 0:36:38 | 0:36:40 | |
-Through here, we'll see a feature -that we haven't yet seen. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:44 | |
-That revolutionary feature - -a ceiling. | 0:36:45 | 0:36:47 | |
-This ceiling -isn't original to Egryn... | 0:36:53 | 0:36:56 | |
-..but it's important -because it shows that halls evolved. | 0:36:56 | 0:37:01 | |
-The hall was built in 1510. | 0:37:01 | 0:37:03 | |
-It was modified a century later. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:06 | |
-Egryn has now been restored -by the National Trust. | 0:37:07 | 0:37:11 | |
-It shows our changing attitudes -to space across the centuries. | 0:37:11 | 0:37:16 | |
-Liz, apart from the ceiling... | 0:37:24 | 0:37:26 | |
-..what else has changed at Egryn? | 0:37:27 | 0:37:29 | |
-Before the ceiling was added, -there was an open fire on the floor. | 0:37:29 | 0:37:34 | |
-The smoke would rise up -to the roof. | 0:37:35 | 0:37:37 | |
-The biggest modification -was the addition of this fireplace. | 0:37:38 | 0:37:43 | |
-The mouldings are very posh. -They were the height of fashion. | 0:37:43 | 0:37:48 | |
-They created a new lounge... | 0:37:49 | 0:37:51 | |
-..with the addition of a ceiling -and first-floor bedrooms. | 0:37:51 | 0:37:56 | |
-Windows were also added at that time. | 0:37:56 | 0:37:59 | |
-What spurred them on -to make these modifications? | 0:37:59 | 0:38:03 | |
-It was partly due -to the new fashion. | 0:38:03 | 0:38:05 | |
-Keeping up with the Joneses -was always important. | 0:38:06 | 0:38:09 | |
-We all want to create more space -in our homes. | 0:38:10 | 0:38:13 | |
-This opportunity presented itself. | 0:38:13 | 0:38:16 | |
-They created bedrooms for the family -and more private rooms. | 0:38:16 | 0:38:21 | |
-It evolved into a family home. | 0:38:23 | 0:38:25 | |
-The great advantage of a ceiling... | 0:38:48 | 0:38:51 | |
-..was that the owner could create -a private chamber for himself. | 0:38:51 | 0:38:55 | |
-In this case, several chambers. | 0:38:56 | 0:38:58 | |
-The advantage for us is a close-up -view of the roof structure. | 0:38:58 | 0:39:02 | |
-We can even embrace the apex -of the cruck, for the first time. | 0:39:02 | 0:39:06 | |
-It's wonderful -to be able to do that. | 0:39:07 | 0:39:09 | |
-We can see the old and the new, -joined together with these pegs. | 0:39:10 | 0:39:14 | |
-They've even recreated -the quatrefoil bracing... | 0:39:14 | 0:39:19 | |
-..by reconstructing -the cusped braces. | 0:39:20 | 0:39:23 | |
-There are more quatrefoils -in the roof. | 0:39:24 | 0:39:27 | |
-These are wind-braces -to strengthen the roof. | 0:39:27 | 0:39:31 | |
-Another feature -which we haven't yet seen... | 0:39:31 | 0:39:35 | |
-..is this flower, -which is known as a boss. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:38 | |
-That's an original boss -and it's a rare sight in Wales. | 0:39:39 | 0:39:43 | |
-They're becoming less rare... | 0:39:43 | 0:39:45 | |
-..because they've added a new one -on this aisle beam. | 0:39:46 | 0:39:49 | |
-It's a joy to stand here, -surrounded by this symphony of wood. | 0:39:51 | 0:39:56 | |
-Houses Of The Welsh Countryside... | 0:40:04 | 0:40:08 | |
-..has maps guiding us -to each house's important features. | 0:40:08 | 0:40:13 | |
-This map shows where to find -the bosses I mentioned earlier. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:18 | |
-It appears to be a fashion -that filtered across the border. | 0:40:19 | 0:40:23 | |
-You'll find them in Denbighshire -and Flintshire... | 0:40:23 | 0:40:27 | |
-..but bosses are rare -in the rest of Wales. | 0:40:27 | 0:40:30 | |
-This is where the 16th century -and the 21st century meet... | 0:40:52 | 0:40:56 | |
-..to create a revolutionary home. | 0:40:56 | 0:40:59 | |
-This conversion at Rhyd-y-Carw -is bold, honest and contemporary. | 0:40:59 | 0:41:04 | |
-The open spaces within hall houses -are perfect for keeping stock. | 0:41:10 | 0:41:15 | |
-It's fair to say -that many hall houses were saved... | 0:41:15 | 0:41:19 | |
-..because they were useful -agriculturally. | 0:41:19 | 0:41:22 | |
-This hall escaped the fashion -for rebuilding walls in stone... | 0:41:22 | 0:41:27 | |
-..or additions like extra doors, -internal staircases and fireplaces. | 0:41:27 | 0:41:32 | |
-Rhyd-y-Carw hall house was built -in Trefeglwys, Powys, in 1525. | 0:41:42 | 0:41:46 | |
-It was then modified into a barn -during the 17th century. | 0:41:47 | 0:41:51 | |
-This building was only a home -for 150 years. | 0:41:53 | 0:41:57 | |
-The recent contemporary conversion -has breathed new life into it. | 0:41:57 | 0:42:02 | |
-You usually enter a hall house -through a cross-passage. | 0:42:02 | 0:42:06 | |
-In this modern house, you enter -through a glorious glass tunnel... | 0:42:06 | 0:42:12 | |
-..that leads into an ultra-modern -black and white Japanese kitchen. | 0:42:12 | 0:42:17 | |
-These are elements -which belong to the 21st century. | 0:42:18 | 0:42:22 | |
-There's little here to suggest -that we're in a hall house. | 0:42:22 | 0:42:27 | |
-Only when you step into the hall... | 0:42:28 | 0:42:31 | |
-..do you see the building -in all its glory. | 0:42:31 | 0:42:34 | |
-They have recreated the top table... | 0:42:34 | 0:42:37 | |
-..where the householder would dine, -near the dais screen. | 0:42:37 | 0:42:41 | |
-They have also hung a tapestry -on the wall. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:44 | |
-There would have been a tapestry -here years ago, of course. | 0:42:44 | 0:42:49 | |
-That's a cross-passage, one end -of which has been blocked off. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:54 | |
-It amazes me to see how well -a modern lounge sits in this space. | 0:42:55 | 0:42:59 | |
-It seems to fit perfectly within -its 500-year-old surroundings. | 0:43:00 | 0:43:05 | |
-In addition to deft weaving -of the old and the new... | 0:43:17 | 0:43:21 | |
-..sustainability has been -at the core of this redevelopment. | 0:43:22 | 0:43:27 | |
-Which features -of this 16th century house... | 0:43:27 | 0:43:31 | |
-..make it suitable -for modern living? | 0:43:32 | 0:43:35 | |
-I think it's the vast possibilities -offered by Rhyd-y-Carw. | 0:43:36 | 0:43:41 | |
-It's our responsibility to strive -to reduce our carbon footprint. | 0:43:42 | 0:43:47 | |
-This house has great potential... | 0:43:48 | 0:43:51 | |
-..and the new owners -realized that potential. | 0:43:51 | 0:43:54 | |
-This side of the house -is south-facing. | 0:43:55 | 0:43:58 | |
-Most of the windows -are on this side of the house. | 0:43:59 | 0:44:03 | |
-There are a few windows -on the east and west walls... | 0:44:05 | 0:44:08 | |
-..and, wisely, almost nothing -on the north-facing wall. | 0:44:09 | 0:44:13 | |
-There's a ground source heat pump -beneath the lawn. | 0:44:15 | 0:44:20 | |
-A heated liquid is then pumped -into the underfloor heating boiler. | 0:44:21 | 0:44:26 | |
-What energy-saving technology -has been used here? | 0:44:30 | 0:44:33 | |
-If you look at the windows, you can -see the thickness of the walls. | 0:44:34 | 0:44:38 | |
-They've been insulated with cellulose -from recycled newspapers. | 0:44:39 | 0:44:45 | |
-The double-glazed windows -have low emissivity glass. | 0:44:45 | 0:44:50 | |
-It changes frequency when it's sunny -and traps heat in a room. | 0:44:50 | 0:44:55 | |
-These window frames -are made of local oak. | 0:44:56 | 0:44:59 | |
-They were custom-built -by a local craftsman. | 0:44:59 | 0:45:02 | |
-There's a heat recovery -ventilation system on the ceiling. | 0:45:03 | 0:45:08 | |
-Fresh, dry air enters the building -and it circulates. | 0:45:10 | 0:45:14 | |
-The stale air is extracted here -to minimize condensation. | 0:45:14 | 0:45:19 | |
-As an architect, -are you fond of this house? | 0:45:19 | 0:45:22 | |
-Yes, because the old and the new -interweave well. | 0:45:23 | 0:45:26 | |
-You can see the old -and you can celebrate it... | 0:45:27 | 0:45:30 | |
-..but you can also enjoy -21st century comforts. | 0:45:30 | 0:45:34 | |
-The bedroom actually slots -between the pair of crucks. | 0:45:35 | 0:45:40 | |
-On the other side, where previous -owners raised the roof level... | 0:45:42 | 0:45:47 | |
-..they have created a dressing area -and a bathroom. | 0:45:47 | 0:45:51 | |
-It's three periods in one room. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:53 | |
-The old cruck, the barn -and the new house meld perfectly. | 0:45:54 | 0:45:58 | |
-It's glorious. | 0:45:58 | 0:45:59 | |
-What they've created here -is genuinely brave. | 0:46:17 | 0:46:21 | |
-They were brave to tackle the work -in the first place. | 0:46:21 | 0:46:24 | |
-The importance of the original -hall house didn't frighten them. | 0:46:25 | 0:46:29 | |
-They didn't try to pickle it -in an ambiguous 'old' period. | 0:46:30 | 0:46:34 | |
-What they've created -belongs to the here and now. | 0:46:34 | 0:46:38 | |
-Its feet are planted in the past, -but it looks to the future. | 0:46:38 | 0:46:42 | |
-As our tour of magnificent -hall houses ends... | 0:46:53 | 0:46:58 | |
-..we return to Ty Mawr -in Castle Caereinion... | 0:46:59 | 0:47:02 | |
-..to hear from Peter Smith, author -of Homes Of The Welsh Countryside. | 0:47:03 | 0:47:08 | |
-Is Ty Mawr your favourite? | 0:47:08 | 0:47:10 | |
-Yes, it's my favourite. | 0:47:11 | 0:47:13 | |
-There are some other -magnificent hall houses in Wales... | 0:47:13 | 0:47:17 | |
-..but Ty Mawr -is probably my favourite. | 0:47:17 | 0:47:20 | |
-Look at what you see here today. | 0:47:21 | 0:47:23 | |
-When I first saw the interior -of this house... | 0:47:25 | 0:47:28 | |
-..I recalled the words -of Howard Carter in Egypt. | 0:47:32 | 0:47:37 | |
-"I can see wonderful things." | 0:47:39 | 0:47:41 | |
-The greatest triumph of my life. | 0:47:52 | 0:47:55 | |
-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones | 0:48:16 | 0:48:19 | |
-. | 0:48:19 | 0:48:20 |