Tai Eryri Cartrefi Cefn Gwlad Cymru


Tai Eryri

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-Welcome to the most rugged

-landscape in Wales...

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-..and the rugged houses

-which seem to grow from it.

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-The hall houses

-described in the first programme...

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-..were common throughout Wales,

-from Anglesey to Monmouth.

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-In the 16th and 17th centuries,

-housing culture changed...

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-..and regional variations emerged,

-as storeyed houses were built.

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-It could be argued the first type

-of storeyed houses built in Wales...

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-..were erected here in Snowdonia.

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-So much so, it is still known

-as the Snowdonian house.

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-It's important not to confuse

-the Snowdonian house type...

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-..with the thousands of central

-stair houses which developed later.

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-The exteriors were similar but

-they were fundamentally different.

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-Compared

-with cottages and longhouses...

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-..the Snowdonian house design

-is less familiar to the Welsh.

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-The Snowdonian house

-is a well-kept architectural secret.

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-In this programme, we'll trace

-the origins and development...

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-..of the Snowdonian house.

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-Peter Smith wrote the book

-Houses Of The Welsh Countryside...

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-..for the Royal Commission.

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-He was the first historian to define

-and summarize the Snowdonian house.

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-His book inspired our journey...

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-..which starts at Gwydir Castle,

-Llanrwst.

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-This isn't a Snowdonian house...

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-..so why am I here

-at the start of this programme?

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-This house set the foundation

-for that pattern of building.

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-It had a huge influence

-on this area...

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-..because the Wynn family

-lived here.

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-It was an influential

-and affluent family.

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-They owned most of Snowdonia.

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-Their tenants were

-familiar with this house...

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-..and may well have

-aspired to such a home.

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-Gwydir Castle was the template...

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-..with which wealthy farmers

-started to build Snowdonian houses.

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-The Wynns of Gwydir...

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-..claimed to be descendants

-of the Princes of Gwynedd...

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-..through Rhodri ap Owain Gwynedd.

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-In the 16th century...

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-..everyone in North Wales would have

-been aware of the powerful Wynns.

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-Sir John Wynn, who was born in 1553,

-famously founded a school here.

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-Bishop William Morgan

-was educated at the school.

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-The main building dates back

-to the start of the 16th century.

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-The porch at the front

-of the house was a later addition.

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-It's Gwydir was truly revolutionary

-when it was built.

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-This was a time when people

-lived in a single-roomed house...

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-..with a fire

-in the centre of the floor...

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-..the smoke from which drifted out

-through a hole in the roof.

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-This was a three-storey,

-three-chimney house...

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-..which symbolized

-the owners' wealth.

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-Gwydir also has three fireplaces.

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-The windows are now far larger

-than they were originally...

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-..and that's a new staircase.

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-It wasn't a real castle...

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-..but, as the sturdy structure

-suggests, it was a stronghold.

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-Gwydir formed a prototype

-for the new type of house...

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-..which was being built

-by wealthy farmers.

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-It has chimneys on the gables,

-stairs around the fireplace...

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-..and unit system developments...

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-..where wings are added

-to the main house.

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-These elements are essential to the

-development of Snowdonian houses.

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-If this was the seed,

-what grew from it?

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-Ironically, the first Snowdonian

-house we'll see in this programme...

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-..stands in Cardiff,

-some 200 miles south of Snowdonia.

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-Y Garreg Fawr was originally erected

-in Waunfawr in 1544.

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-It was re-erected here, at the

-National History Museum, in 1984...

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-..440 years later.

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-What are the external features

-of the Snowdonian house?

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-This is a classic example

-of a Snowdonian house.

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-They're solid houses and are,

-without exception, stone houses.

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-Stone was freely available

-in Snowdonia...

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-..but the hall houses built here

-were timber-framed.

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-It was a total change of style which

-was adopted in the 16th century.

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-This is an early example

-of a Snowdonian house...

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-..and all Snowdonian houses

-have a solid structure, like this.

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-Y Garreg Fawr has very tall chimneys

-which were status symbols.

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-Having a TV aerial on your roof

-in the 1950s was a sign of wealth...

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-..and it was just the same

-in the 16th century.

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-Similarly, a tall chimney was for

-someone with elevated social status.

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-What else is remarkable

-about the chimneys?

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-They're angled against the ridge

-of the roof, for decoration.

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-This was also a sign of wealth,

-as it was expensive to build.

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-That's no surprise when I tell you

-this house was commissioned...

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-..by Sir John Wynn of Gwydir.

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-It was a house on his estate.

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-The tenant happened to be

-one of his brother's friends.

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-He must have been one of the

-wealthiest tenants in the parish.

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-It's generally true to say that

-only the best houses have survived.

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-By 1560,

-Gruffydd ap Hywel ap Robert...

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-..paid an annual rent

-of 40 shillings.

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-Gruffydd would have been able

-to farm Welsh Black cattle...

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-..driving to market in southern

-England along the drovers' roads.

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-Y Garreg Fawr looked very different

-in its original setting in Waunfawr.

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-It had been converted into a barn.

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-When it was re-ereceted

-in St Fagans...

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-..it was restored to its

-original form as a Snowdonian house.

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-What Snowdonian features

-are there inside the house?

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-We're standing between two doors

-which create a cross-passage.

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-This was the main room,

-traditionally called the hall...

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-..even though this wasn't

-a hall house of course.

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-Farmers continued to use the term

-"hall" for the main living room.

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-Household chores were carried out

-in here, including the cooking.

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-There are two small rooms behind us

-which was the norm.

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-One was a dairy...

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-..and the other was a cold parlour.

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-Above our heads are the bed,

-living and storage chambers.

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-The two floors were separate for the

-first time in Snowdonian houses.

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-They were built this way.

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-Yes, they were designed

-as two-storey houses.

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-Many old hall houses

-were modified...

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-..but this 1544 house is one of the

-oldest surviving Snowdonian houses.

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-How would people have lived

-in these houses?

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-There's a lot of furniture in here.

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-Yes, some of which is familiar to us

-such as the dining table and chairs.

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-The two-piece cupboard

-has the date 1605 carved into it.

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-There are also storage chests,

-chairs and stools here.

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-The features usually associated

-with a traditional farmhouse...

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-..such as a dresser and corner

-cupboard hadn't been invented.

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-This is fairly primitive furniture.

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-Chores would be done here, as this

-is the only ground floor fireplace.

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-All the cooking would be done here.

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-The fire would burn day and night,

-throughout the year.

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-It was a work room

-and a living room.

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-Y Garreg Fawr was built in 1540,

-making it an early Snowdonian house.

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-It has a mature plan

-in all but one respect.

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-It lacks

-the stone fireplace stairs...

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-..which later became ubiquitous

-in houses of this type.

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-This shows the novelty

-of storeyed houses...

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-..and how similar early Snowdonian

-houses were to hall houses.

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-The design had yet to be perfected

-when Y Garreg Fawr was built.

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-According to

-Houses Of The Welsh Countryside...

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-..region-specific storeyed houses

-were built in Wales...

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-..in the period after hall houses

-fell from favour.

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-Previously, there were only

-hall houses throughout Wales.

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-If we then turn to a map which shows

-the location of Snowdonian houses...

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-..we see why they earned their name.

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-There's a clear concentration

-of this house type in Gwynedd.

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-This book is invaluable because

-the information is collated...

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-..and presented in a way

-we can all understand.

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-As we know, Y Garreg Fawr

-was built as a Snowdonian house...

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-..but there are different sorts

-of Snowdonian houses.

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-.

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-This is Ty Mawr,

-at the far end of Cwm Wybrnant.

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-Bishop William Morgan was born here

-in 1545.

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-He was the man who first translated

-the whole Bible into Welsh.

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-This is a Snowdonian house

-in its natural setting.

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-William Morgan's parents

-were tenants of the Gwydir estate.

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-The Wynn family's influence

-went beyond architecture.

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-It also shaped the life

-of William Morgan.

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-He received his early education

-from the Wynns' private chaplain.

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-He then studied at

-St John's College in Cambridge...

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-..and he went on

-to serve as Bishop of St Asaph.

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-Ty Mawr Wybrnant is famous

-as the home of the man...

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-..who secured the survival

-of the Welsh language.

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-This hall house was modified

-to appear to be a Snowdonia house.

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-Ty Mawr displays the main features

-of a Snowdonian house.

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-The door is set to one side.

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-The row of first floor windows

-suggests it's fully storeyed.

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-The chimneys are on the gable ends

-of the house.

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-You can see the wall which was built

-to support the chimney...

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-..when this house was modified

-and modernized.

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-This house is known

-as a two-unit dwelling.

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-The ground floor is divided into

-two units - the large kitchen...

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-..and two smaller, screened rooms

-form the second unit.

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-The classic features you'll see

-in a Snowdonian house are all here.

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-The gable-end fireplace...

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-..and a floor, which means

-there are rooms upstairs.

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-As I mentioned earlier, this house

-was modified and modernized.

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-Ty Mawr was originally

-a classic hall house.

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-It was built in the 16th century.

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-Using computer graphics...

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-..we can see this single-storey

-house in its original form.

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-The door leads to a cross-passage

-and a splendid, open hall.

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-There's an open hearth

-in the middle of the floor....

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-..and a dais screen at the top end.

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-The space is open to the roof...

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-..and we can admire the

-striking crucks which support it.

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-In the 17th-century Snowdonian

-house modification of Ty Mawr...

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-..the door at the other end

-of the cross-passage is blocked off.

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-A dais screen has been added,

-on the left...

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-..and the central hearth

-has disappeared.

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-A new fireplace has been added

-at the top end.

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-A ceiling has been fitted...

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-..and Ty Mawr is transformed

-into a two-storey home.

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-It also has a slate roof instead

-of its original stone tiles.

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-The house was restored

-by the National Trust in 1988...

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-..to mark the 400th anniversary

-of the Welsh-language Bible.

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-The only remaining evidence

-that this was indeed a hall house...

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-..when Bishop William Morgan

-was born in 1545...

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-..is this cruck fragment

-which is stuck in the wall.

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-As you can see,

-they sawed across it.

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-This proves the window over here

-isn't original.

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-The other cruck

-would have been there...

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-..and the pair met in the middle.

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-This magnificent joist supports

-all the weight of the gable end.

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-The wall behind the chimney

-isn't original, of course.

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-At the top of this joist...

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-..we can see the holes where

-the floor was originally located.

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-This is another modification,

-of course.

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-Was it a house typical of the area?

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-It's called Ty Mawr - A Great House.

-Why was it great?

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-The local residents had no means

-of building big houses.

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-It was true then, as it is now.

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-It's surrounded by animals grazing.

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-That formed the basis

-of the wealth...

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-..which financed

-the building of this house.

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-These were commercial farmers...

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-..who made substantial profits

-from rearing cattle.

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-This may not look like

-particularly fertile land...

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-..but it was a highly efficient way

-of turning resources into money.

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-Ty Mawr feels like a remote location

-to us in this day and age.

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-It must have been even more remote

-in the 16th century.

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-No, to the contrary.

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-Many of the drovers' roads from

-east to west and north to south...

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-..actually crossed each other

-in this area.

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-At the time when William Morgan,

-the great translator, lived here...

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-..the drovers' road

-which headed east towards England...

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-..passed in very close proximity

-to his home.

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-How would people live in this house?

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-This would have been

-a farmhouse kitchen.

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-Everything happened here.

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-Behind us here,

-there's a large table.

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-It's the sort of piece

-you'd see here.

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-There were platforms on either side,

-where people could sleep.

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-All the cooking was done

-on the fire, of course.

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-A chain would come from the chimney

-with a cooking pot hanging from it.

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-Curiously, they would cure or smoke

-food in order to preserve it.

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-They'd smoke food by hanging it

-from hooks inside the chimney.

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-The windows aren't glazed...

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-..but when this house was modified,

-in the 16th century...

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-..glass was being introduced

-into the windows of houses.

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-Yes, glass became increasingly

-important from the 1570s onwards.

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-I'd expect to see glass

-in large windows, such as this one.

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-In a house with an open hearth...

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-..it was important to have windows

-opposite each other to draw smoke.

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-It controlled the volume of smoke

-in the house.

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-That's the origin

-of the word "window" - wind eye.

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-On the first floor

-of a Snowdonian house...

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-..there is usually

-a gable-end fireplace.

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-This was the owner's main bedroom.

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-In some cases

-the chamber is divided in two.

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-The combination of stone walls

-and solid, good quality carpentry...

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-..is one of the main features

-of the Snowdonian house.

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-There are no timber-built

-Snowdonian houses.

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-This hall house was modified

-to make it fashionable.

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-The house we're about to see has

-developed even further than Ty Mawr.

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-We've reached Nant Gwynant

-and this is Hafod Lwyfog.

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-Although sturdy farmhouses

-on a rugged landscape...

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-..are a familiar sight

-in this part of Wales...

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-..Hafod Lwyfog

-has a fascinating history.

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-It was a house of some status.

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-Hafod Lwyfog reflects the wealth

-of Snowdonia in Tudor times.

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-It also points to the gentry's love

-of demonstrating their wealth...

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-..and of following

-architectural trends.

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-This house stands in south Snowdonia

-in the valley of Nant Gwynant.

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-Hafod Lwyfog was the home

-of Sir John Williams...

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-..goldsmith to King James I.

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-It was also the home of Efan Llwyd,

-high sheriff of Caernarvonshire.

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-The suggestion is that wealthy

-people lived in this sort of house.

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-Sir Clough Williams Ellis

-bought this farm in 1936.

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-He wanted to protect the farmhouse

-from damaging developments.

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-Today, it's owned

-by one of his descendants.

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-As we step into the hall,

-we see the door was set to one side.

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-We know the door

-was here originally...

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-..because of the style and quality

-of the wood around here.

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-Dendrochronology tests on the wood

-date it to circa 1540...

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-..which suggests

-this was originally a hall house.

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-That was the hall

-and this was the parlour, over here.

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-There's a hint of the style

-of the modification...

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-..in the timber moulding.

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-We'll see much more of it

-in the rest of the house.

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-This is the parlour,

-the room with the smaller fireplace.

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-There's a larger one

-at the other end.

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-Beyond the boxes and office

-equipment, there's a real gem.

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-There's a hint of this new

-decoration in the mantel edge.

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-It's far more prominent

-on the ceiling beams.

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-We tend to think of this part

-of Gwynedd as being rather remote.

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-It wasn't remote at all

-400 years ago.

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-The high standard of decorative

-touches on the timber...

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-..suggests whoever lived here

-kept up with architectural trends.

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-The man who did the work

-carved his name onto this beam.

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-Efan Llwyd Aedificavit 1638.

-He's saying "I did this work".

0:23:430:23:47

-A staircase in the dairy below

-the parlour led to the house above.

0:23:470:23:53

-Hafod Lwyfog

-is a four-storey house...

0:23:540:23:56

-..if we include the dairy in the

-cellar and the bedroom in the attic.

0:23:570:24:01

-Here's one feature of Snowdonian

-houses which we haven't yet seen.

0:24:020:24:06

-The stone staircase

-which curls around the fireplace.

0:24:070:24:11

-That stone staircase leads here,

-to one of the chambers.

0:24:310:24:35

-Unusually,

-there are two staircases here.

0:24:360:24:39

-That's the stone staircase which

-we link with Snowdonian houses...

0:24:390:24:44

-..and this is a wooden staircase.

0:24:440:24:46

-This space stretches all the way

-from the dairy to the attic.

0:24:480:24:52

-A staircase may have run

-from top to bottom.

0:24:520:24:56

-It's also possible the space was

-filled by cupboards on each floor.

0:24:560:25:01

-It could even have been

-a very early toilet.

0:25:010:25:04

-The decoration here is as impressive

-as it is on the ground floor.

0:25:050:25:10

-The pattern carved into the beams

-and on the dais screen are original.

0:25:100:25:16

-As you step through the dais screen

-and onto the landing...

0:25:200:25:24

-..what you see is the fruits

-of Efan Llwyd's labour.

0:25:240:25:28

-All the dais screens you see here

-were created during that period.

0:25:280:25:33

-It's rare to see 16th-century work

-which has remained unaltered.

0:25:330:25:38

-This is exceptional.

0:25:380:25:40

-We see the same decorative touches

-on all the panels.

0:25:410:25:45

-Unlike Ty Mawr Wybrnant...

0:25:460:25:48

-..there's a ceiling

-on the first floor rooms.

0:25:480:25:52

-The servants

-lived in the loft above it.

0:25:530:25:56

-The beams are blackened

-with smoke...

0:25:570:26:00

-..which proves that it was

-a hall house originally.

0:26:000:26:04

-We're back where we started.

0:26:230:26:25

-That's the passage

-and beyond it is the parlour.

0:26:250:26:28

-This is the hall.

0:26:290:26:30

-The computer graphics gave us

-an idea of how the house looked.

0:26:460:26:51

-In the book, we have dozens

-of illustrations...

0:26:510:26:54

-..which also give us an idea

-of how different houses looked.

0:26:550:26:59

-There's a cross-section

-of a Snowdonian house...

0:26:590:27:03

-..which shows all the main features.

0:27:030:27:05

-The door set to one side,

-the curving staircase...

0:27:060:27:09

-..the chimneys and the floor.

0:27:090:27:12

-This is a comprehensive

-illustration.

0:27:120:27:14

-We've seen two Snowdonian houses

-in their natural settings.

0:27:290:27:33

-How does the Snowdonian house

-develop from there?

0:27:340:27:38

-.

0:27:430:27:44

-888

0:27:450:27:45

-888

-

-888

0:27:450:27:47

-Next, we visit Bryn Rodyn,

-near Llan Ffestiniog...

0:28:060:28:09

-..a house which was built from

-the outset as a storeyed dwelling.

0:28:100:28:15

-Unlike Ty Mawr Wybrnant

-and Hafod Lwyfog...

0:28:160:28:19

-..Bryn Rodyn was never a hall house.

0:28:200:28:22

-This is the first Snowdonian house

-we've seen in its original setting.

0:28:230:28:28

-Elinor, you were given the task...

0:28:280:28:31

-..of drawing up the plans

-to renovate Bryn Rodyn.

0:28:310:28:34

-Where does that process start?

0:28:350:28:37

-What procedures

-must the owner follow?

0:28:370:28:40

-The owners approached me...

0:28:400:28:42

-..and they asked me for assistance.

0:28:430:28:46

-I helped them draw up plans...

0:28:460:28:48

-..for listed buildings

-planning consent.

0:28:490:28:53

-This ancient screen is at the heart

-of the restoration work.

0:28:540:28:58

-It divides the two units

-on the ground floor.

0:28:580:29:02

-To gain a better understanding

-of the task...

0:29:020:29:05

-..an archaeological record

-of the screens was commissioned.

0:29:060:29:11

-It bolstered

-the planning consent application.

0:29:110:29:15

-What problems does the screen raise?

0:29:150:29:18

-The bottom plate is missing.

0:29:180:29:20

-These acro props are supporting

-the whole first floor structure.

0:29:200:29:25

-I noticed that this doorway

-was a modern opening.

0:29:270:29:31

-We did some detective work...

0:29:320:29:34

-..to find out

-where the original openings were.

0:29:340:29:38

-Those findings

-form the basis of these plans.

0:29:380:29:42

-We checked

-the archaeological record.

0:29:420:29:45

-We also made enquiries

-with the Royal Commission...

0:29:460:29:49

-..and with

-Gwynedd Archaeological Trust...

0:29:500:29:53

-..and we're confident that there was

-a splendid entrance into the hall.

0:29:530:29:58

-It's large and it's rather grand.

0:29:580:30:01

-It goes from here to that point.

0:30:010:30:06

-Will you add new timber

-and make it obvious that it's new...

0:30:060:30:10

-..or will you try to blend it

-into the original screen?

0:30:100:30:14

-If you put new wood

-in an old building...

0:30:150:30:17

-..I don't believe you should

-try to make it look old.

0:30:180:30:21

-Let people appreciate

-the renovation.

0:30:220:30:24

-I'm standing in the corner

-of the main room - the hall.

0:30:340:30:38

-Behind me here

-is the enormous main fireplace.

0:30:390:30:42

-I'm facing the new kitchen,

-which was added in the 17th century.

0:30:430:30:49

-A hole in the external wall

-gives access to the kitchen.

0:30:490:30:53

-This is the first L-shaped, extended

-Snowdonian house we've seen.

0:30:540:30:59

-The stairs must be

-17th-century additions...

0:31:000:31:03

-..because this space was created

-to give access to the stairs.

0:31:030:31:08

-Without the kitchen door, there

-would be no room for the stairs.

0:31:090:31:14

-The lack of written evidence makes

-dating ancient houses difficult.

0:31:170:31:22

-Architectural historians use

-a scientific technique to date wood.

0:31:220:31:27

-Dendrochronology, or tree-ring

-dating, has proved invaluable...

0:31:280:31:33

-..and the work is now

-being carried out in Bryn Rodyn.

0:31:330:31:37

-We often hear it's possible...

0:31:400:31:42

-..to date a house

-to the month it was built.

0:31:420:31:46

-How is that possible?

0:31:470:31:49

-We date the wood which was used

-to construct the house.

0:31:490:31:53

-We use the services

-of dendrochronologists.

0:31:540:31:58

-They're specialists and they examine

-samples of the timber in the house.

0:31:580:32:03

-They use a hollow drill bit

-to extract a sample of the timber.

0:32:040:32:09

-In an ideal world, the sample

-comes with bark attached to it.

0:32:100:32:14

-The bark tells us in which season

-that tree was felled...

0:32:140:32:18

-..and we can date a house

-to within two years.

0:32:180:32:22

-This sample was taken

-from the mantel in Bryn Rodyn.

0:32:230:32:27

-We need to see the rings more

-clearly in order to measure them...

0:32:270:32:32

-..so the sample will be polished and

-a computer will measure ring widths.

0:32:330:32:38

-We'll be able to create a graph

-using those measurements...

0:32:390:32:44

-..which we'll then match

-to an existing pattern.

0:32:440:32:48

-That's how we'll find out

-when the tree was felled.

0:32:490:32:52

-Does a wide ring mean the tree

-grew a lot in that year?

0:32:530:32:57

-Yes, a wide ring

-means the tree had a good year...

0:32:570:33:00

-..with plenty of moisture

-and plenty of heat.

0:33:010:33:04

-If you have a dry year,

-the rings are narrower.

0:33:060:33:09

-This one's a real whopper!

0:33:100:33:12

-Yes, it was a hot, wet year.

0:33:120:33:14

-How do you use the results?

0:33:140:33:16

-The Commission uses the results

-to help us understand...

0:33:170:33:21

-..the chronology

-of the development of houses.

0:33:210:33:25

-With Snowdonian houses, we'll learn

-how the designs changed over time.

0:33:250:33:30

-In this house,

-the samples taken from the wing...

0:33:300:33:34

-..should tell us whether it was

-a much later addition...

0:33:340:33:38

-..or if it's almost as old

-as the main house.

0:33:380:33:42

-Dendrochronology helps us

-learn more about houses.

0:33:420:33:47

-The results of the dendrochronology

-tests at Bryn Rodyn...

0:33:500:33:55

-..reveal it was built

-between 1556 and 1560.

0:33:560:33:59

-We know the rear wing

-was built later.

0:34:010:34:05

-Tests suggest the roof timbers were

-recycled from an earlier period.

0:34:050:34:11

-Finally, and very interestingly...

0:34:110:34:14

-..the timber used for the mantel

-dates back to 1503.

0:34:150:34:19

-This suggests it was recycled.

0:34:200:34:22

-Colonel John Jones Maesygarnedd

-was born here.

0:34:310:34:35

-He was a roundhead, a puritan,

-a fervent Welshman...

0:34:350:34:39

-..and Oliver Cromwell's

-brother-in-law.

0:34:390:34:42

-Through that connection, he signed

-the death warrant of King Charles I.

0:34:420:34:47

-Dramatic changes came about

-for the republican movement...

0:34:470:34:52

-..when the monarchy was restored

-and Charles II was crowned.

0:34:520:34:56

-It's said that John Jones rejected

-the offer of a pardon...

0:34:570:35:02

-..as he felt to accept would mean

-that he couldn't live with himself.

0:35:020:35:06

-He was hung, drawn and quartered

-in London...

0:35:060:35:09

-..but he was born right here.

0:35:100:35:12

-He also had links with a house

-on the other side of the mountain.

0:35:130:35:18

-That house is Uwchlaw'r Coed.

0:35:210:35:23

-John Jones lived here with his wife,

-Katherine Whetstone...

0:35:240:35:28

-..Oliver Cromwell's sister.

0:35:280:35:30

-It nestles above Artro woods

-near Llanbedr, Meirionnydd.

0:35:300:35:35

-You enter Uwchlaw'r Coed beneath

-this huge, cyclopean door-head.

0:35:390:35:44

-The date is cut

-into the stone - 1585.

0:35:440:35:48

-Some older Snowdonian houses were

-dated through dendrochronology...

0:35:490:35:54

-..but this is the oldest

-dated example of a Snowdonian house.

0:35:540:35:58

-The date is also inscribed on what

-remains of the passage partition.

0:35:590:36:04

-Once again, it's dated 1585.

0:36:040:36:06

-You can see where the partition

-panels slotted into place.

0:36:060:36:11

-There was a door there,

-to create a cross-passage.

0:36:120:36:15

-The staircase is still there,

-behind this more recent wall...

0:36:160:36:20

-..which makes this

-a classic Snowdonian house.

0:36:200:36:24

-The amazing fact about this house is

-that it was extended.

0:36:240:36:28

-We know exactly

-when it was extended.

0:36:280:36:31

-If you remember Bryn Rodyn,

-the kitchen formed an L-shape.

0:36:310:36:35

-In this case, the house was extended

-uphill, along the same line.

0:36:350:36:40

-This is the extension.

0:36:510:36:52

-I must watch my head!

0:36:530:36:54

-This is the external wall

-of the old house.

0:36:540:36:57

-There's evidence to suggest

-there was a window here.

0:36:580:37:01

-It may have been a big window

-or perhaps a small one.

0:37:020:37:05

-It could even have been a door.

0:37:050:37:07

-What we know for certain is

-that it's an extension.

0:37:080:37:11

-We know this extension

-had been built by the year 1654.

0:37:110:37:15

-The date on the beam suggests that.

0:37:150:37:18

-We don't know why April 28th 1654

-was a significant date...

0:37:180:37:22

-..but it may commemorate

-a birth or a marriage.

0:37:230:37:26

-We have no details but this part

-of the house was built by 1654.

0:37:290:37:33

-Rhian, you're a landscape historian.

0:37:430:37:46

-Can you explain

-what a landscape historian does?

0:37:470:37:50

-It's a somewhat unusual job.

0:37:500:37:52

-I'll explain

-the field of my expertise.

0:37:520:37:55

-I use the names of fields to unravel

-the history of the landscape.

0:37:570:38:02

-I research what was here in the past

-and why the house was built.

0:38:030:38:07

-The answers to those questions are

-often in the names of the fields.

0:38:080:38:12

-Uwchlaw'r Coed, which means

-Above the Woods, is a grand house...

0:38:130:38:17

-..which is indeed above the woods.

0:38:180:38:21

-I'd expect it to be closer to town.

0:38:210:38:23

-It's a good name because

-it stands above Artro woods.

0:38:240:38:27

-These were important woods

-and this is an important location.

0:38:270:38:32

-It's a splendid plot of land

-on which to build a house.

0:38:320:38:36

-For centuries,

-it stood on a crossroads.

0:38:360:38:39

-The main road from Harlech to London

-passed Uwchlaw'r Coed.

0:38:400:38:44

-The stagecoach used that road.

0:38:450:38:47

-How old is the name Uwchlaw'r Coed?

0:38:470:38:50

-It's hard to tell

-without seeing written records.

0:38:500:38:54

-A record from 1610 describes

-Uwchlaw'r Coed not as a house...

0:38:540:38:58

-..but as the name of an area.

0:38:590:39:01

-Houses and land

-are mentioned in this record...

0:39:010:39:04

-.."In a place called Llanenddwyn,

-Uwchlaw'r Coed."

0:39:040:39:09

-It's very common in Ardudwy.

0:39:100:39:12

-It was the name of an area.

0:39:120:39:14

-The names of the fields on this map

-are familiar...

0:39:150:39:19

-..but we perhaps don't know

-what they mean.

0:39:190:39:22

-In the case of Uwchlaw'r Coed,

-two Deuparth are noted.

0:39:220:39:26

-Yes, Deuparth means two parts

-of one area of land.

0:39:260:39:30

-When fields of the same name

-border each other...

0:39:310:39:34

-..it's usually a case

-of one large field divided into two.

0:39:340:39:39

-This may have been done...

0:39:400:39:42

-..because land had to be divided

-when someone passed away.

0:39:420:39:46

-It's fascinating.

0:39:460:39:48

-Local farmers preserved

-these ancient names.

0:39:490:39:52

-They go back centuries

-and they're still significant.

0:39:520:39:56

-.

0:40:130:40:14

-888

0:40:150:40:15

-888

-

-888

0:40:150:40:17

-Our journey around Snowdonian houses

-ends in Llanfair Isaf, Harlech.

0:40:340:40:39

-We can't say

-we saved the best till last...

0:40:390:40:42

-..as they all have their merits,

-but this is the hardest to read.

0:40:420:40:47

-It looks like a Georgian house

-from this vantage point.

0:40:590:41:03

-The only clue to its true identity

-is this door.

0:41:030:41:07

-Where is the Snowdonian house?

0:41:070:41:09

-There's a classic Snowdonian house

-lurking beneath the surface.

0:41:120:41:17

-Look up and you can see

-the roof level has been raised.

0:41:180:41:21

-It was a low house, as you'd expect

-in the 16th century...

0:41:220:41:26

-..when it was built.

0:41:260:41:28

-It was extended sideways.

0:41:280:41:30

-There's a blind window over there.

0:41:310:41:35

-That's in a more recent unit.

0:41:350:41:38

-You can see from the pattern

-of the stones that this is original.

0:41:380:41:43

-The most significant feature

-is this doorway...

0:41:430:41:47

-..with the upright stones.

0:41:470:41:49

-It's typical of a Snowdonian house.

0:41:490:41:51

-The chimney on the top

-is part of the original house.

0:41:520:41:55

-The same can be said

-of the chimney on the other gable.

0:41:560:41:59

-Scratch the surface

-and you'll find a Snowdonian house.

0:42:000:42:03

-Let's step inside

-the original house...

0:42:040:42:07

-..if you're sure

-this is the original house!

0:42:070:42:10

-We're familiar

-with cross-passages...

0:42:180:42:21

-..but I can't work out which one

-of these dais screens is original.

0:42:210:42:26

-Maybe neither of them is original.

0:42:260:42:28

-The left one isn't original...

0:42:290:42:31

-..but it's built on the line

-of the original screen.

0:42:320:42:36

-Behind it are the servants' room...

0:42:360:42:38

-..and a small parlour.

0:42:390:42:41

-This is a stone or brick wall.

0:42:410:42:43

-The step at the top tells you

-it doesn't fit under the beam.

0:42:430:42:48

-It's certainly a later addition.

0:42:480:42:50

-This was probably moved here.

0:42:510:42:53

-In a Snowdonian house...

0:42:540:42:56

-..people entered through the door

-into the cross-passage.

0:42:570:43:01

-The servants' rooms and the parlour

-were on that side and this was open.

0:43:010:43:06

-The joists follow the same pattern

-on both sides of the truss...

0:43:070:43:11

-..which suggests

-this was one large room.

0:43:120:43:15

-Let's look at another section

-of this collection of buildings.

0:43:170:43:21

-This is the last phase

-of this collection of buildings.

0:43:300:43:33

-It's the third of three units.

0:43:340:43:36

-It looks far more primitive

-than the others.

0:43:360:43:40

-Is it older than the original house?

0:43:400:43:43

-When I first came here,

-that's what I thought.

0:43:430:43:46

-It isn't older and

-one of the reasons I say that...

0:43:480:43:51

-..is that it's built

-in a hall house pattern.

0:43:520:43:56

-Upon closer inspection...

0:43:560:43:58

-..of the far corner

-and particularly of this corner...

0:43:580:44:03

-..you can see

-it clearly abuts the original house.

0:44:030:44:07

-It's certainly the oldest unit.

0:44:080:44:10

-Dendrochronology tests show...

0:44:130:44:16

-.. that this house was built

-between 1535 and 1565.

0:44:160:44:20

-Unlike the longhouses of the time,

-which included a byre...

0:44:210:44:24

-..animals were kept in separate

-buildings in a Snowdonian house.

0:44:250:44:30

-A unique feature of Llanfair Isaf

-is that it's a unit system house.

0:44:330:44:37

-A unit system means...

0:44:420:44:44

-..is that the main house

-has domestic units attached to it.

0:44:440:44:48

-In essence, that means

-there are several houses here.

0:44:490:44:52

-Upon the death of the landowner, his

-wife moved out of the main house.

0:44:530:44:58

-Their son and heir

-would take over the farm...

0:44:580:45:01

-..and she'd move into another house.

0:45:010:45:04

-It was known as

-the cottage of the widow's third.

0:45:050:45:09

-The widow moved out and took a third

-of the farm's riches with her.

0:45:090:45:14

-She owned that third for life.

0:45:150:45:17

-This cottage

-is abutted to the main house.

0:45:170:45:21

-They share

-one corner of the building.

0:45:210:45:24

-That's the only connection.

0:45:250:45:27

-You can't walk through a wall.

0:45:270:45:29

-To go from one to the other...

0:45:290:45:32

-..you went out of one door

-and in through another door.

0:45:320:45:36

-It's wonderful to be in here, just

-to see the thickness of the walls...

0:45:520:45:57

-..and the beautiful stone wall

-above the fireplace.

0:45:570:46:01

-Was it ever storeyed?

0:46:010:46:02

-Part of this house was storeyed

-but this isn't one of them.

0:46:030:46:07

-This was a hall

-which was open to the roof.

0:46:070:46:10

-There are no windows on what

-would have been the first floor...

0:46:110:46:16

-..so it's unlikely it was storeyed.

0:46:160:46:18

-That part of the unit, which lies

-on the other side of this door...

0:46:190:46:23

-..it's likely there was a wall

-to create a chamber above it.

0:46:230:46:28

-A window which was once

-a narrow door lies behind the door.

0:46:290:46:33

-It led into a servant's room.

0:46:330:46:35

-There's a gable window

-in the chamber above here.

0:46:360:46:40

-It would have been used as

-a sleeping, cooking and living area.

0:46:400:46:44

-It may have been the granny flat

-of its day!

0:46:450:46:47

-It has everything you'd need.

0:46:490:46:51

-Another part of our

-architectural odyssey...

0:47:060:47:09

-..inspired by Houses Of The Welsh

-Countryside is over.

0:47:100:47:14

-This step kept me

-in one small corner of Wales.

0:47:140:47:17

-A special kind of house was built

-on the rugged Snowdonia landscape.

0:47:200:47:25

-In a homogeneous age...

0:47:260:47:28

-..it's wonderful to celebrate

-vernacular architecture...

0:47:280:47:34

-..which is deeply rooted

-in the area.

0:47:340:47:36

-We should all take immense pride

-in Snowdonian houses.

0:47:400:47:43

-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

0:48:120:48:15

-.

0:48:150:48:16

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