Hertfordshire Countryfile


Hertfordshire

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From pretty villages to ancient woodland, canals

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and fertile farmland, Hertfordshire is a Home County steeped in history.

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When we moved to this place 18 months ago, this

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orchard of 16 trees was fruitful but in need of some love.

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So today, with the help of these burly surgeons,

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this gentleman here and that lot through there,

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we're hoping to return this place to its former glory.

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With its wide-open spaces and green landscapes,

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Hertfordshire is a county that inspires.

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The world-famous sculptor Henry Moore lived here for

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He adored the landscape and he also had a passion for the sheep,

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so much so that to this day they are allowed to graze around

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I'll be finding out more about Moore and his inspirations.

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Tom's investigating the rubbish side of country life.

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A secluded glade, perfect for wildlife

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We'll be investigating the cost to you

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and to the environment but also revealing the people

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who are no longer taking this lying down,

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Meanwhile, Adam's facing an uphill struggle.

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Today I'm helping to move some rare-breed sheep onto

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Castle Island down in Tintagel in Cornwall.

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We brought them up this path, over this wooden bridge

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and now they've made a dash for it up the side of the cliff.

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I'm not quite sure how we're going to get them down

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because there's still the worst bit to come which zigzags up

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the side of this cliff, onto the top of the island.

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a rural county less than an hour from central London.

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It has the Anglo-Saxons to thank for the name Hertford which

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roughly translated means deer crossing water.

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It's a tranquil place set amongst the background of chalky

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Today there are still more acres of open countryside than towns

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Think of apples, and Hertfordshire doesn't really spring to mind.

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Kent, yes. Herefordshire, yes. Now there you've got some orchards.

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But if you rewind a few centuries money really did

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grow on trees around here because orchards were big business.

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Tim Elborn is a fifth-generation Hertfordshire fruit farmer.

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His family have grown plums, pears, greengages

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and of course apples here since 1864.

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So, Tim, why are British apples so great?

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They're great because they taste absolutely fantastic.

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We haven't got to ship the apples halfway around the world,

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so very often, especially at this time of year, the customers

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are eating something that has just been picked in the last few days.

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And we grow a lot of different varieties.

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And there's a fantastic range of flavours.

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You're eating an Ashmead's Kernel, which is a very old,

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traditional English variety that you don't often see these days.

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Exactly how important were the orchards to this area?

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In this village alone there were up to probably around 30 fruit growers.

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And it was the main industry of the village.

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We managed to survive by growing a lot of heritage varieties,

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that the supermarkets very often don't stock,

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But people are getting something different. They are.

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In this orchard alone we grow over 50 varieties of apples.

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So if you wanted to you could eat a different apple every

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Thousands of apples have to be picked by hand before

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they naturally fall from the tree and bruise.

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Since the '90s apple growers have had to diversify

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But there's no such thing as a bad apple round here.

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Everything we're picking now will be used in some way,

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The crucial thing is that 100% of the crop is turned into profit,

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makes money. In other words, nothing goes to waste.

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For instance, an apple like this one here tastes

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just as good as that apple you ate earlier. Yeah.

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But because of those blemishes on the skin, normally we'd either

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throw it away or sell it for pulp or for juice for very little money.

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So you can use 100% of your crop, no waste, which is perfect. Yep.

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Exactly. Absolutely nothing goes to waste. We like that.

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The race is now on to get the apples back to the farm.

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And it looks like I'm going to pip Tim to the post.

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Normally I'm upsetting the apple cart, not delivering it.

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Tim produces 30,000 litres of apple juice a year on this farm.

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So that means 60 tonnes of them have to be pulped through the grinder.

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We need to get through one tonne of apples to make 500 litres of juice.

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We've done all of this in just a few minutes

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but look how brown some of the apples are going already.

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It just turns like that. Well, we need to get on with the pressing.

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Because it's apple juice we want a clear juice

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so we need to press it as quickly as we can.

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Next, the pulp goes into the apple press.

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and then crushed to squeeze out every last drop of apply goodness.

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Look, you can see the juice even now seeping out of the bottom.

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The lovely thing is, your hands smell of apples.

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Yep, it's good for them. Does them the world of good.

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Listen, I've seen your hands. Don't try and sell that as a moisturiser.

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Tim adds vitamin C to keep the juice clear

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and pasteurises it for a longer life before selling.

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But I want to taste it fresh from the tree.

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The moment of truth. Tell me what you think.

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I have never, ever tasted apple juice so fresh.

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All of this done within half an hour. Absolutely. Cheers. Cheers.

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That is really, really good. I'm glad you enjoy it.

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This farm may be the apple of Tim's eye but sadly it's the last

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surviving commercial business left in Hertfordshire.

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Across this fruity county you can still find small

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And we've managed to track down a newcomer to the area with

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one of these rare orchards in his back garden.

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18 months ago, a family arrived at their new

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home in the Hertfordshire countryside.

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With three acres of land including a small orchard with

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16 apple trees, it's someone with a really familiar face.

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It's me. The trouble is... There's just a couple of problems.

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We fell in love with the place from the moment we saw it.

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And over the past year my wife, Nicola,

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and I have done our best to get this orchard to a manageable level.

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But with both of us having very little

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experience of caring for apple trees, we're now a bit stumped.

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Some of the trees have seen better days and we can only identify

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the apples as kids' packed lunch and Dad's favourite.

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We have absolutely no idea what all of these different

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varieties of apples are, but we do know that there's

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life in the old trees yet and we want to rescue them.

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So, we've called on the services of some local orchard experts to

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Mike Clarke is currently writing his second book on apple identification.

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Sounds like the right chap for the job.

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All right, Mike. Let's have a look at this one.

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If we're identifying it, then where do you start?

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The colour immediately hits you. Initially, what are the hues on it?

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Is there any marking? Are there stripes?

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The shape, it could be conical, it could be pear-shaped.

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But it's a flattened, green, nice, smooth apple

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and that immediately jumps out at me as a Bramley.

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If you're uncertain about several varieties which are very similar,

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you can cut them open and have a look at what the cavity's like.

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If you get it about bang in the middle, there we are.

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I like to look at them this way up. This is where the blossom was.

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I've got the blossom on that side and the stalk that side.

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That's interesting because everybody holds the apple up that way

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but actually it's meant to be that way because your blossom's here.

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Yep, that's how it grew. The cavity can be quite significant.

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And also the length of the stalk varies quite a lot.

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And the actual shape here, you can get different shapes.

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A funnel shape so you've got extra things to look at

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Though today man has cultivated more

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than 2,000 varieties of apple, they all can be traced back to

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wild relatives in the valleys of Kazakhstan.

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Leaving Mike to gather the samples for identification,

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it's time to look at the trees themselves.

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Just in time, here's local tree surgeon John Jones.

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John, this is one that we are very keen to rescue, as you can see.

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It's a very old apple tree. It's certainly seen better days.

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But essentially the tree is still alive,

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I don't think there's any reason to take it down.

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It's very precious to the area. We think it's one of the last

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When we came it had a brace around it.

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Or there was a brace hanging down there.

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So we wondered whether we should strap it up or strap it together.

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It's always a bit of a "do you, don't you" with bracing and strapping,

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because your intention is to put something heavy around this tree.

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Because it's still growing, even though

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it's not as healthy as it could be, by putting heavy strapping around

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it you could end up cutting into the tree and causing

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more of a problem. It is on its last legs.

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There is no denying that and I think just pruning it and trying to lessen

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the weight on one side of the tree will aid it in keeping

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OK, so the idea is to take a lot of this weight out of here.

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because the tree has got to shut down for the winter.

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So the longer you can leave it into winter the more healthy

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You don't want to start making wounds on the tree.

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Autumn is when all the funguses are out

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and you might end up cross-contaminating the tree.

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So take the weight off from around here.

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Bluetit might be the final nail in the coffin for this tree.

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We'll prune this back later in the winter

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but there is a project that we can tackle at this time of year.

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John, believe it or not, there's an apple tree in here.

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We got second place at the village show with the apples.

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That must have been some time ago. It looks a bit swamped at the moment.

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Let's see if we can get in and we can have a look

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Right, come on in. Righty-ho. Okey-dokey.

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So obviously we just want to give it some fresh air. It needs it.

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You can quite clearly see that this branch of the apple tree was

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once alive and functioning really well

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but because it's been in the dark for so long the tree has naturally

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shut it down and all this branch is completely dead now.

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Plenty to get your chain saws into later. Absolutely. Good.

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While the chain saws will be busy today,

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to help us out with the maintenance of the orchard in the long

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run I'm also calling on the skills of a four-legged workforce

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Matt's not the only enthusiastic amateur protecting these

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precious little orchards across the county.

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This bungalow and two-acre smallholding

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It was built in 1920 as part of a Homes Fit For Heroes scheme

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that helped rehouse soldiers returning from the First World War.

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The proud owners back then were Mr and Mrs Jeacock.

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Not much has changed over the last century.

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Current resident and apple enthusiast Martin Hicks likes

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So what did Mr Jeacock want with two acres? It's a lot of land.

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He wanted an area to grow some fruit trees.

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He wanted to put some pigs on the land.

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He used to put geese on here as well and a few goats, as well.

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So he wanted to be self-sufficient, really.

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Basically a smallholding as part of his normal occupation, as well,

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and making it productive, which is what the Government

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wanted for people coming back from the First World War.

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MUSIC: "How Ya Gonna Keep Em Down On The Farm" by Harry Fay

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Not much is known about Mr Jeacock apart from the fact that he

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loved his apples and he planted this orchard himself.

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Why is it so important to you to protect this land?

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Well, orchards are now considered national priority habitat and

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they're particularly valuable because they've got a range of old trees

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with lots of blossom in the spring, lots of fruit in the autumn,

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lots of crenulated bark... Crenulated bark, I love it!

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So do mosses and so do lichens and there's as many lichens

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here as there are in some of the best orchards in the county.

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There's over 50 species of lichens here.

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unimproved grassland with lots of wild flowers in it.

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So orchards are a fantastic veneer of habitat for a whole wide range

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of species and that's why they're considered really important habitats.

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I feed some of them to the sheep, I pick what I can.

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I squash all the apples and they all get used.

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The point is these habitats, these orchards were planted to be used.

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They were functional components of our countryside.

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And when that functionality disappears,

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so do the orchards and so does all the biodiversity associated

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with them and so do the landscapes and so does the culture.

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Martin's certainly passionate about this place.

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He works hard organising community projects to help spread

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and why we should cherish these precious Hertfordshire orchards.

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You can't deny the beauty of this enchanted isle,

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But there are people who profit by intentionally spoiling it.

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Tom has been investigating the growing problem of illegal

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The unlawful dumping of thousands of tonnes of rubbish

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Nails, rubble, plasterboard, wallpaper...

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It really is an infuriating thing to deal with.

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Farmer Calum Sutherland recently found this lot dumped on his land.

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It posed a danger to the environment and his livelihood.

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It made me furious and I was annoyed that people could

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Calum works on this sheep farm near Blandford Forum in Dorset.

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Not only do they have 3,500 ewes to look after,

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they're also fighting a costly and never-ending battle with fly-tippers.

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Tell me, how do you feel that you have to spend a lot of time

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clearing rubbish off your land? Furious.

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It made my blood boil that people can come out into the countryside

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and simply dump their waste to the expense of myself or my employer.

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Considerable expense and also a danger to your stock. Yeah.

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A fundamental danger to the stock and to machinery, as well.

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The stuff that was in the waste, we had nails and shrapnel

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If that punctures a tyre we're talking thousands of pounds.

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If we had stock in the field that would have been another issue

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with hoofs and nails and it's not a good combination.

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But this is just a tiny fraction of the problem.

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There's an ever-growing mountain of rubbish left in rural Britain.

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It ranges from a few bin bags of nuisance waste to criminal

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gangs who've made a business out of it.

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Fly-tippers can undercut legitimate waste businesses

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because they don't cough up for things like landfill tax or permits.

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So you pay to have your waste taken away,

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the criminals pocket the profit and the environment pays the price.

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These waste criminals are dealing in truckloads of rubbish

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Environment Agency knows only too well.

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That's quite a rogues' gallery you've got laid out, Matt. What have we got?

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We've got a selection of the kind of bad things people get up to

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This involved a case where material contaminated with lead and

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other things was going onto a site and being let to run into the river.

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We found that cos the fish were dying and we chased that upstream.

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Wow! Got another example here which is a construction of waste tyres.

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Basically they've left it abandoned on land

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and just cleared off and taken the money.

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Some are using criminal cunning to avoid paying for disposal.

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An example in this last year that sticks in my mind is mixed

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waste that's baled to make it look like bales of hay

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Of course, that's a natural thing to see in the countryside

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and it was only when those bales started to split that it was

:18:43.:18:46.

Now, we made sure that the local farmers

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and others were extra vigilant with that and two people were

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arrested earlier this year and the investigation is still ongoing

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Basically, if it's big, bad or nasty it's the Environment Agency's

:18:59.:19:06.

job to deal with it, whether on public or private land.

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Last year it shut down 1,300 illegal waste sites that were

:19:10.:19:13.

it's the local authorities who do the lion's share of the work.

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Last year they dealt with an astonishing 700,000 incidents.

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So what about the rubbish dumped on private land?

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Well, there it's up to farmers like Calum to sort it out for themselves.

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Because it's private land the farmers have to pay to clear it up

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They get the danger of the waste on their land and end up paying,

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well, can be thousands of pounds to clear up the mess.

:19:44.:19:47.

For the National Farmers Union this is putting an unfair,

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They think farmers should be getting more support.

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If they're unfortunate enough to be the victim

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they're left with the cost and the time it takes to clear up that mess.

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We'd like to see the authorities make it easier for farmers to deal

:20:10.:20:12.

If the farmer is unfortunate enough to be the victim of someone

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dumping some waste illegally on his land, we'd like to see them be able

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to see them take that waste to a local authority site free of charge.

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So how bad is the problem of fly-tipping?

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Our research suggests that the problem on farmland has increased

:20:30.:20:33.

massively in the last year or so. Up about 64%. 64% within a year? Wow.

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Why do you think we're seeing such a steep increase?

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I think the answer to that is that fly-tipping has been displaced,

:20:43.:20:48.

less on public land but happening more on farmland in particular.

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You're bearing the brunt of successful campaigns elsewhere.

:20:52.:20:54.

The NFU plans to make illegal waste dumping part of their next

:20:55.:21:03.

not only to make the public more aware

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but also to encourage the authorities to give farmers more help.

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Illegal waste dumping is costing farmers

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and taxpayers tens of thousands of pounds a day.

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And it's scarring some beautiful parts of our countryside.

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So what can we do about it? I'll be finding out later.

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Normally, I'm away from home exploring the best our lovely

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landscape has to offer. But not this week.

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This week I'm in my Hertfordshire garden.

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As well as us, it's home to an orchard that's over 100 years old,

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an increasingly rare sight in Hertfordshire,

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where 90% of all orchards have been lost.

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My wife and I want to get this orchard up and running as

:21:51.:21:52.

and these lads have already made a great start on getting as much

:21:53.:21:57.

sunlight into the trees as possible, but I've also got a few

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permanent employees in here and you can just see them through there.

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I've recently got hold of this flock of six ewes to graze the land.

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And I'm hoping to let them loose in the orchard soon.

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These are me grass cutters. Hebridean sheep.

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They're a native breed that hail from the Scottish Isles

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and we have a flock up on our farm in Durham

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so I knew the perfect breed for a plot this size.

:22:29.:22:32.

They're not big eaters and they're certainly not fussy eaters.

:22:33.:22:35.

They're brilliant for conservation grazing

:22:36.:22:37.

so all of these new brambles that are making their way up

:22:38.:22:40.

through the grass, they're going to nibble all of this and keep it down.

:22:41.:22:44.

And they're just perfect. Lovely temperament.

:22:45.:22:50.

They're also a little reminder of home.

:22:51.:22:53.

But if I'm honest the sheep aren't just for keeping the grass down,

:22:54.:22:55.

they are also a present for a new addition to the family.

:22:56.:22:59.

Last week I introduced you to our new collie pup, four-month-old Bob.

:23:00.:23:05.

I'm keen that Bob grows up familiar with sheep.

:23:06.:23:08.

He's already showing his natural instincts

:23:09.:23:10.

when he's out playing with our black Lab, Annie, and so I'm

:23:11.:23:13.

keen for him to meet who he will be working with when he grows up.

:23:14.:23:19.

and the idea is that Bob doesn't even know he's got it on, really.

:23:20.:23:28.

But if anything does happen I can just stand on that string

:23:29.:23:32.

and suddenly I've got control of him again

:23:33.:23:34.

but I really just want to see what stage he's at.

:23:35.:23:38.

We'll just see how he goes. His ears might twitch.

:23:39.:23:40.

He might just do a little bit of the old stalking, we'll see.

:23:41.:23:43.

He's definitely keen but he doesn't know how to cope at the moment.

:23:44.:23:55.

I don't want to spoil him so I've got my string here

:23:56.:24:00.

and I can just give it a little tug and say, "Bob, that'll do."

:24:01.:24:05.

What a good lad. There now. There now.

:24:06.:24:10.

Every other day we'll come out and we'll do this. OK?

:24:11.:24:14.

But we won't concentrate on any major training for a long

:24:15.:24:19.

We'll tell Annie all about it then. You want the tummy tickle, do you?

:24:20.:24:28.

Now, as we heard earlier, waste criminals are ruining

:24:29.:24:37.

beautiful parts of our environment by illegally dumping rubbish.

:24:38.:24:42.

So what's being done to clean up our countryside? Tom's been finding out.

:24:43.:24:47.

The illegal dumping of waste blights our landscape

:24:48.:24:50.

from the farmer suffering frequent fly-tipping...

:24:51.:24:55.

It made my blood boil that people can come out into the countryside

:24:56.:24:58.

and simply dump their waste to the expense of myself or my employer.

:24:59.:25:04.

..to the government agency spending millions preventing and clearing up

:25:05.:25:08.

mountains of hazardous waste, much of it dumped by organised criminals.

:25:09.:25:13.

We found that cos the fish were dying and we traced it upstream.

:25:14.:25:17.

While some are making big money from this shady business,

:25:18.:25:21.

others are being left to pick up the bill.

:25:22.:25:24.

But the authorities aren't taking the problem lying down.

:25:25.:25:28.

I'm in Carmarthenshire in South Wales spending time with

:25:29.:25:31.

a group of people who are using technology to fight

:25:32.:25:34.

back against the fly-tippers and the waste criminals.

:25:35.:25:43.

It certainly is a secluded spot coming in off the hills there.

:25:44.:25:46.

Yes, this is an ideal location for fly-tippers

:25:47.:25:48.

'Mike Roberts from Carmarthenshire County Council

:25:49.:25:55.

'is on the front line against fly-tipping

:25:56.:25:56.

'and he certainly sees more than his fair share of rubbish.'

:25:57.:26:01.

There's so much different stuff here. I don't know where to start.

:26:02.:26:06.

It must have taken a lot to bring that down here, as well.

:26:07.:26:12.

Got the sofas. Everything including the kitchen sink up there.

:26:13.:26:16.

And over there, that's asbestos. That's nasty stuff.

:26:17.:26:20.

Mike works with an organisation called Fly-Tipping Action Wales,

:26:21.:26:24.

a collection of local authorities working with people like the

:26:25.:26:27.

police, the Forestry Commission and the NFU to clean up rural Wales.

:26:28.:26:32.

There's no excuse for this but this is what every local authority,

:26:33.:26:35.

every landowner is subjected to at the moment.

:26:36.:26:38.

but I guess you're dealing with this sort of stuff all the time, are you?

:26:39.:26:42.

This is what we come across on a daily basis, unfortunately.

:26:43.:26:45.

Every year 42,000 tonnes of illegally dumped waste is reported

:26:46.:26:55.

in Wales, costing the taxpayer ?2.1 million to clear up.

:26:56.:27:00.

But Mike and his team are using some pioneering technology to turn

:27:01.:27:04.

When we arrive on site put it in camera mode.

:27:05.:27:09.

This tracking device records the location of waste sites then

:27:10.:27:16.

plots a red dot on a map to show the hotspots,

:27:17.:27:19.

and South Wales appears to have a nasty rash.

:27:20.:27:22.

Larger dots indicate there's a higher frequency of

:27:23.:27:25.

So some of those big ones, that's not just one incident,

:27:26.:27:30.

It could be multiple incidences in one location.

:27:31.:27:33.

That's giving you the prime sites, isn't it? What do you do with that?

:27:34.:27:39.

The benefits of having a mapping system shows where local

:27:40.:27:42.

authorities have got to put their resources.

:27:43.:27:44.

It will indicate the level of fly-tipping,

:27:45.:27:48.

the type of waste being left and the frequencies.

:27:49.:27:51.

So rather than just fighting blind you know where to

:27:52.:27:53.

That's where we'll put our resources.

:27:54.:27:58.

Knowing where the criminals might strike is just half the battle.

:27:59.:28:02.

These cameras are ideal because they are quite small

:28:03.:28:08.

This particular location has been subject to fly-tipping in the

:28:09.:28:14.

past so as you can see around you there are various

:28:15.:28:18.

ways in which the cameras can be hidden

:28:19.:28:20.

so that the fly-tippers don't know that they're there.

:28:21.:28:23.

There's no shortage of undergrowth and brush to put them in. Exactly.

:28:24.:28:26.

I have a feeling that's definitely not getting my best side,

:28:27.:28:30.

Hidden cameras like this are used to catch offenders red-handed

:28:31.:28:38.

We don't want to give away the tricks of the trade

:28:39.:28:44.

and make it easier for the villains so we'll let Pam hide her

:28:45.:28:47.

secret camera without showing you the details.

:28:48.:28:51.

This pioneering method of mapping illegally dumped

:28:52.:28:54.

waste before catching the criminals in the act is now being rolled

:28:55.:28:58.

out in other areas. Gary Evans has been managing the project.

:28:59.:29:02.

So how are you doing in protecting the beautiful landscape of Wales?

:29:03.:29:06.

It is beautiful and it's typical of South Wales

:29:07.:29:10.

and we're passionate at Fly-Tipping Action Wales to maintain

:29:11.:29:13.

this for local communities and future generations.

:29:14.:29:16.

There were still 36,000 incidents of fly-tipping in Wales last year.

:29:17.:29:21.

That equates to about 100 every day and that's far too many,

:29:22.:29:25.

the amount of money that's spent on clearing fly-tipping

:29:26.:29:29.

That money could be better spent in other services like education

:29:30.:29:34.

And it's because our countryside is so open

:29:35.:29:38.

and relatively isolated that fly-tippers can thrive,

:29:39.:29:41.

but you're saying there is nowhere to hide any more.

:29:42.:29:43.

Very much so. With the GPS tracking system we've got

:29:44.:29:46.

and the covert surveillance techniques that local

:29:47.:29:48.

authorities can employ now that we're helping them with.

:29:49.:29:51.

there's very few places that if we believe fly-tipping is going to

:29:52.:29:55.

go on that we couldn't target with our covert surveillance techniques.

:29:56.:30:00.

The group's efforts seem to have had a real impact

:30:01.:30:02.

But what about private landowners, like farmers?

:30:03.:30:07.

We've been working with landowners, the National Farmers Union for one,

:30:08.:30:12.

We appreciate that fly-tipping is going up in some areas

:30:13.:30:16.

and we're keen to address that and we've been working with them

:30:17.:30:21.

only this month to look at alternative ways of tackling

:30:22.:30:24.

so it doesn't become such a blight for those individuals.

:30:25.:30:28.

and surveillance things on private land as well?

:30:29.:30:32.

and there's a lot of legal implications we've got to go

:30:33.:30:37.

through before that's actually put in place

:30:38.:30:39.

but we're looking at systems and methods and processes that will help

:30:40.:30:43.

those landowners tackle fly-tipping in the future.

:30:44.:30:51.

Fly-tipping takes advantage of the tranquillity

:30:52.:30:54.

But if the enthusiastic response we've seen in South Wales

:30:55.:30:59.

and fewer places for the waste criminals to hide.

:31:00.:31:07.

And we can all help by checking our own sofas and tellies

:31:08.:31:11.

are being legally disposed of, not ending up ruining the countryside.

:31:12.:31:23.

Moving livestock can be tricky at the best of times.

:31:24.:31:27.

But throw in sheer-sided cliffs, an island, and a narrow bridge,

:31:28.:31:31.

and you've got a recipe for mayhem, as Adam's about to find out.

:31:32.:31:37.

But first he's got some of his own livestock to deal with.

:31:38.:31:44.

Somewhere in this valley are my Exmoor ponies.

:31:45.:31:47.

Looks like it's going to be one of those days.

:31:48.:31:49.

There's lots of gorse bushes and thorn bushes,

:31:50.:31:52.

I need to find them and take them back up to the farm.

:31:53.:31:59.

These Exmoor ponies are really tough and hardy

:32:00.:32:01.

and they're pretty quick on their feet.

:32:02.:32:03.

Once they get going, they can certainly motor.

:32:04.:32:05.

But I should be able to keep up with them in this.

:32:06.:32:08.

Ah, here they are. They're at the top there.

:32:09.:32:12.

They're already cantering away from me.

:32:13.:32:20.

Thankfully they're being fairly well behaved at the moment.

:32:21.:32:28.

I've almost got them now. Just a bit further to go.

:32:29.:32:36.

I'm taking them closer to the farm, to a new field for the winter.

:32:37.:32:45.

On this farm I'm very lucky with the terrain.

:32:46.:32:49.

There's some land that suits grassland

:32:50.:32:51.

but also some good-quality arable land, too.

:32:52.:32:54.

But there's plenty of farmers across the world who really aren't so lucky,

:32:55.:32:59.

and over the years I've witnessed some pretty extreme farming.

:33:00.:33:07.

Last year I visited Valais in Switzerland to witness

:33:08.:33:10.

the homecoming of the Blacknose sheep

:33:11.:33:12.

as they returned from a summer spent on the Alps.

:33:13.:33:15.

I thought farming sheep in the Cotswolds was quite hard work

:33:16.:33:18.

They're bringing 1,200 sheep off the side of this mountain,

:33:19.:33:23.

Closer to home, North Devon's Valley of the Rocks is known for

:33:24.:33:35.

And it's also where a large herd of feral goats roam free.

:33:36.:33:41.

When it comes to their annual routine checkup,

:33:42.:33:43.

The billy goats have spotted them, jumped over the wall

:33:44.:33:48.

and gone straight up the mountain like mountain goats do.

:33:49.:33:52.

And it doesn't bode well for the first part of the mission -

:33:53.:33:55.

And today I'm in Cornwall at Tintagel Castle.

:33:56.:34:03.

And I've come down here to help move some sheep onto this rocky outcrop,

:34:04.:34:08.

across some pretty unforgiving terrain,

:34:09.:34:10.

Set on the rugged North Cornwall coast,

:34:11.:34:18.

Tintagel Castle is steeped in legends and mystery.

:34:19.:34:25.

It's known for the myths surrounding King Arthur

:34:26.:34:27.

But I'm here to help make some history of our own

:34:28.:34:32.

Tintagel property manager Matt Ward is on hand

:34:33.:34:38.

We've got 30 sheep that are just arriving in a few minutes' time

:34:39.:34:44.

and I'm glad you could come and help. We've just got to move them

:34:45.:34:46.

and drive them up the steps and get them onto the castle island.

:34:47.:34:49.

We've got a little photo, if you want to see.

:34:50.:34:57.

That's the last time the sheep were up here.

:34:58.:34:59.

In fact, the breed look like Cotswolds, where I'm from.

:35:00.:35:03.

Right, OK. That's your expertise and that's why you're here.

:35:04.:35:07.

And why are you putting sheep up here again?

:35:08.:35:09.

Part of our conservation maintenance plan.

:35:10.:35:11.

We've got some very rare wild flowers up there

:35:12.:35:13.

so in conjunction with Natural England,

:35:14.:35:15.

having sheep up there hopefully will improve and increase

:35:16.:35:18.

the amount of wild flowers from their hundreds to their thousands.

:35:19.:35:21.

And the great thing about sheep is they play a vital role

:35:22.:35:24.

because they'll graze on coarse grasses

:35:25.:35:28.

Now, I know you wanted me here early, so there's a bit of a rush, is there?

:35:29.:35:34.

Well, we've got to get this walkway open by ten o'clock.

:35:35.:35:37.

I've been here putting up some temporary fences and some hurdles,

:35:38.:35:40.

so fingers crossed that it should all go according to plan.

:35:41.:35:42.

Get the sheep through and then the public arrive? Yeah, hopefully.

:35:43.:35:45.

Soays. Absolutely. You're a brave man. They're pretty lively sheep.

:35:46.:35:55.

So I've heard, you know, they are a bit sketchy.

:35:56.:35:57.

And the Soay comes from the stacks off the west coast of Scotland and so

:35:58.:36:02.

they're used to living in this kind of environment

:36:03.:36:04.

but it must get pretty rough in the winter down here. Yeah.

:36:05.:36:06.

When you're getting a gale coming in from the north all winter it's

:36:07.:36:09.

pretty wild up here so that's one of the reasons we chose these Soay.

:36:10.:36:12.

So they'll survive the winter up here. Hopefully, they'll be fine.

:36:13.:36:15.

How are your running legs? Cos they're pretty quick. Right, OK.

:36:16.:36:18.

I'm quite used to doing the steps. How are yours?

:36:19.:36:20.

I'm not sure I'll be able to keep up. Shall we let them go? Yeah, let's go.

:36:21.:36:26.

They're lively! Go on, little girls. Go on.

:36:27.:36:36.

That's it, off they go. They're going up the steps well, aren't they?

:36:37.:36:42.

That's it, stay here, stay here, let's let them come back down.

:36:43.:36:53.

It looks like we've got some problems already.

:36:54.:36:55.

They've run up the grass bank. They didn't like being on this path.

:36:56.:37:02.

'As we tried to surround them, they spot a hole in our defences.'

:37:03.:37:06.

I've done some pretty crazy things in my time.

:37:07.:37:21.

Half the flock were just too quick for us

:37:22.:37:31.

We will have to retrieve that lot later.

:37:32.:37:36.

A quick re-position to prevent this from happening again,

:37:37.:37:40.

They seem frightened of the wooden walkway

:37:41.:37:45.

but we have a plan to tempt them down.

:37:46.:37:48.

What the farmer has done is tied one of the Soay to the fence down there

:37:49.:38:04.

and because sheep are flock animals they'll hopefully draw to her.

:38:05.:38:07.

Well, we might have some sheep on your island after all. I think.

:38:08.:38:21.

There's only another 150 metres of treacherous cliff road to pass

:38:22.:38:25.

They're going well now. Oh, hang on. Where are they going?

:38:26.:38:30.

'But just as we congratulate ourselves,

:38:31.:38:33.

'they scale the cliff on the other side

:38:34.:38:35.

'and it starts to get a bit dangerous.

:38:36.:38:37.

'I've no idea how we're going to get them back from there.'

:38:38.:38:40.

And it's not safe for me to get round behind them

:38:41.:38:43.

cos I might fall to my death off the cliff.

:38:44.:38:49.

As we stand around wondering what to do,

:38:50.:38:51.

He's on top of the cliff trying to persuade the sheep to move.

:38:52.:39:03.

I can't believe my eyes when he starts to climb down the cliff.

:39:04.:39:09.

Don't come any further, you're right at the edge of the cliff there.

:39:10.:39:12.

Oh, my word, I don't think I can look.

:39:13.:39:19.

That's it, that's it. They're going, they're going.

:39:20.:39:22.

Right, now you need to get yourself safely back.

:39:23.:39:32.

It's the very first time this breed have been on Tintagel.

:39:33.:39:43.

Where have they gone? We've made it. Look.

:39:44.:39:45.

There they are. Goodness me. Wow, this is an extraordinary place.

:39:46.:39:49.

We're standing in the courtyard of a medieval castle here.

:39:50.:39:52.

This was built in 1236 by Earl Richard of Cornwall

:39:53.:39:55.

and what he basically wanted to do was build a castle on what

:39:56.:39:58.

he thought was King Arthur's birthplace.

:39:59.:40:00.

At the time it had no strategic value.

:40:01.:40:02.

There was no reason for him to build a castle here

:40:03.:40:04.

other than the legend of King Arthur.

:40:05.:40:06.

So what he built was basically a holiday cottage.

:40:07.:40:08.

His main castle was at Launceston and this is his weekend retreat.

:40:09.:40:11.

So they probably would have had sheep right back then.

:40:12.:40:15.

Yeah, sheep have been up here since the 13th century

:40:16.:40:17.

but it's a great source of meat and wool.

:40:18.:40:19.

Imagine up here in the depths of winter,

:40:20.:40:21.

you'd need a pretty big woolly jumper. You would, yeah.

:40:22.:40:23.

So where have you got to get them from here?

:40:24.:40:25.

We've got to just try and get them through that little gateway there.

:40:26.:40:28.

Nice to see you've given me the easy job.

:40:29.:40:36.

Go on. You're having a nice time up here, aren't you?

:40:37.:40:49.

We finally made it, the sheep are going to be quite happy.

:40:50.:41:11.

I've got no idea how we're going to get them off in April

:41:12.:41:13.

but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

:41:14.:41:15.

'but it should make a big difference to the wild flower population.'

:41:16.:41:22.

It's wonderful that such an important breed of primitive

:41:23.:41:25.

This may have once been home to King Arthur,

:41:26.:41:30.

On the surface, Hertfordshire boasts a familiar British landscape.

:41:31.:41:49.

Nothing too out of the ordinary here.

:41:50.:41:52.

Until, perhaps, you happen upon some sculpture so monumental

:41:53.:41:59.

and extraordinary it takes your breath away.

:42:00.:42:06.

These magnificent pieces can be none other than

:42:07.:42:09.

arguably the most outstanding sculptor of the 20th century.

:42:10.:42:23.

This piece dominating the landscape is called Large Reclining Figure.

:42:24.:42:29.

It's one of the many sculptures on display in the grounds

:42:30.:42:32.

his work has been safeguarded by the Henry Moore Foundation.

:42:33.:42:40.

This is my last chance to see his work up close this year

:42:41.:42:43.

because the collection is now closed for winter.

:42:44.:42:46.

Curator Sebastiano Barassi has offered me a special tour.

:42:47.:42:50.

he was born in Castleford in 1898 and he was the son of a coal miner.

:42:51.:42:57.

His father insisted that he should train as a school teacher

:42:58.:43:01.

And then he went on to fight in World War I and when he returned

:43:02.:43:08.

he decided that he really wanted to be an artist.

:43:09.:43:11.

He came to Perry Green and he fell in love with the place.

:43:12.:43:15.

For more than 40 years. For the rest of his life, yes.

:43:16.:43:19.

He set up his studios and also created the ideal landscape to

:43:20.:43:27.

show his sculptures and to create his sculptures.

:43:28.:43:29.

He chose very simple names for many of his sculptures -

:43:30.:43:32.

He wanted people to understand that these sculptures,

:43:33.:43:40.

although they may not look like human figures, they are of human figures.

:43:41.:43:43.

He's leaving it to you to decide and form your own opinion. Yes.

:43:44.:43:47.

You've told me a little secret about this piece. That's right.

:43:48.:43:50.

At some point, someone pointed out that the torso

:43:51.:43:54.

element of the figure looks very much like a rabbit's head.

:43:55.:43:59.

And so I think it stuck. Completely unintentional.

:44:00.:44:03.

Completely unintentional, but once you see that, I think that's

:44:04.:44:06.

All right, I'm renaming this piece Three Piece Rabbit. Wonderful.

:44:07.:44:29.

Moore was so passionate about showing off his work

:44:30.:44:31.

in the landscape he often sent it round the world to be

:44:32.:44:34.

In 1972, his work was being packed up in preparation for what

:44:35.:44:42.

was set to be the most important exhibition of his life, in Florence.

:44:43.:44:47.

There were people packing and wrapping everywhere.

:44:48.:44:51.

We're not just talking about a few padded envelopes

:44:52.:44:53.

It was organised chaos and it made it impossible for him to sculpt.

:44:54.:44:58.

And so he sat right here and he sketched instead.

:44:59.:45:02.

And the view from this window was his inspiration.

:45:03.:45:05.

I think there's something about sheep. No other animal...

:45:06.:45:11.

One of the things that I found one could do is,

:45:12.:45:21.

the sheep couldn't see inside because it's darker in here

:45:22.:45:27.

but they were curious, they could hear, and they'd stand just

:45:28.:45:32.

looking in this way, trying to find out where the noise came from.

:45:33.:45:38.

And they'd stay like that for nearly five minutes.

:45:39.:45:42.

After the birth of his daughter Mary,

:45:43.:45:44.

he became fascinated with the bond between mother and young.

:45:45.:45:49.

Many of his sheep sketches were of ewes protecting their lambs.

:45:50.:45:54.

the idea of combining a larger form with a smaller form in order

:45:55.:46:01.

to create the sense of protection and closure

:46:02.:46:04.

and I think it's something that you see up here.

:46:05.:46:06.

And he didn't mind the proximity of the animals to his pieces.

:46:07.:46:14.

Not at all, not at all. In fact, he really enjoyed that.

:46:15.:46:17.

The fact that the animals that had inspired the sculpture were

:46:18.:46:21.

actually happy to go and rub against the work really appealed to him.

:46:22.:46:26.

see the marks where the sheep have brushed up against them.

:46:27.:46:32.

It's almost sort of sheep sacrilege. Absolutely.

:46:33.:46:34.

we all love that and it's a wonderful anecdote to tell visitors the

:46:35.:46:39.

idea that the sheep actually have a physical relationship with the work.

:46:40.:46:47.

Moore also loved sheep grazing around his sculpture,

:46:48.:46:50.

because he believed they gave his work scale.

:46:51.:46:53.

Farmer Robert Pryor remembers him

:46:54.:46:55.

So, Robert, this all started for you as a schoolboy. Yes, indeed.

:46:56.:47:04.

As I was leaving school, Henry Moore asked my father - they'd been

:47:05.:47:09.

friends for many years, they were in the Home Guard together -

:47:10.:47:12.

whether we'd be interested in grazing sheep

:47:13.:47:14.

on his land amongst the sculptures that were going to be here.

:47:15.:47:18.

He was a Yorkshireman, he enjoyed to see the sheep

:47:19.:47:20.

out there with the sculptures. When I speak to farmers,

:47:21.:47:23.

they all tell me they've got the best view in the world.

:47:24.:47:25.

I haven't spoken to any farmer who gets Henry Moore

:47:26.:47:28.

sculptures on a daily basis. Yeah, we're very lucky, aren't we?

:47:29.:47:32.

It's quite nice to come out in the mornings

:47:33.:47:34.

and drive round the sheep and see this fine art.

:47:35.:47:36.

I'm not sure whether I appreciate it quite as much as I should.

:47:37.:47:38.

The important question is not whether you appreciate it,

:47:39.:47:41.

it's whether the sheep appreciate it. Indeed, yeah, yeah.

:47:42.:47:43.

Oh, I'm not sure they've got a real favourite, apart from on a real

:47:44.:47:48.

hot sunny day they like to shade under the Sheep Piece.

:47:49.:48:06.

Moore was a countryman at heart and he was happiest knowing

:48:07.:48:09.

his life's work would live on in the landscape he cherished so dearly.

:48:10.:48:19.

It is the beautiful Countryfile calendar for 2014,

:48:20.:48:25.

The theme this year was our living landscape.

:48:26.:48:31.

Here's how you get your hands on one.

:48:32.:48:36.

The calendar costs ?9 including UK delivery.

:48:37.:48:40.

You can buy yours either via our website...

:48:41.:48:47.

To order by post send your name, address and cheque to...

:48:48.:49:10.

Please make cheques payable to BBC Countryfile Calendar.

:49:11.:49:15.

A minimum of ?4 from every sale will be donated to the

:49:16.:49:19.

It is a splendid autumnal day here at the Henry Moore Foundation

:49:20.:49:24.

but what has the rest of the week got in store?

:49:25.:49:26.

Well, I know someone who has all the answers to all things weathery.

:49:27.:49:40.

Thank you. It has been hard to find a decent day in the past week. The

:49:41.:49:50.

week ahead is very autumnal. There will be sunshine tomorrow, but there

:49:51.:49:54.

will be more wet and windy weather to come. Hopefully not quite as

:49:55.:49:58.

violent as it has been in the past week. We saw some stormy conditions

:49:59.:50:02.

yesterday, the low pressure system responsible for that is still

:50:03.:50:06.

affecting the far north-east of Scotland and more wet and windy

:50:07.:50:11.

weather from another low sweeping across areas currently. A wet night

:50:12.:50:16.

in the South. Blustery yet again, very gusty conditions along the

:50:17.:50:20.

south coast. The rain extending across the Midlands into parts of

:50:21.:50:23.

East Anglia. With all the wet weather in the south it will be a

:50:24.:50:27.

mild night, a very mild night in the extreme south-east. Further north,

:50:28.:50:34.

it is going to be a cold night. Temperatures in many rural areas

:50:35.:50:40.

will drop to -10 minus two degrees. A chilly start, still some rain

:50:41.:50:48.

leftover. A few showers will graze eastern areas, one too scattered

:50:49.:50:51.

showers in North Wales and perhaps later in the day we will some patchy

:50:52.:50:55.

rain returning to the Isles of Scilly and West Cornwall. For most,

:50:56.:51:00.

tomorrow promises some autumn sunshine, temperatures struggling to

:51:01.:51:04.

double figures. It will feel cold at times on the East Coast, some clouds

:51:05.:51:07.

billing in, so turning grey in Norfolk. There will be some showers

:51:08.:51:14.

across parts of Wales. Parts of Northern Ireland and Scotland, after

:51:15.:51:17.

a cold start, looking fine for the afternoon with sunny spells. It will

:51:18.:51:21.

turn chilly again on Monday night with clear skies, a blue tinge on

:51:22.:51:27.

the map suggesting some frost. More blue in western areas, that is rain

:51:28.:51:30.

spreading in and it will change things. Temperatures starting to

:51:31.:51:35.

lift through the night but in eastern areas there could be a touch

:51:36.:51:39.

of frost on Tuesday morning. The rain arriving is from a weather

:51:40.:51:44.

front attached to low pressure. This front will tend to zip across the

:51:45.:51:48.

country during Tuesday, so we start off wet in the West on Tuesday

:51:49.:51:52.

morning, brightening up across many western areas through the day, rain

:51:53.:51:56.

lingering in eastern areas through the afternoon but the rain is

:51:57.:51:59.

getting out of the way by Tuesday evening. Tuesday is November the 5th

:52:00.:52:04.

so if you are having a bonfire on Tuesday night, it is a good chance

:52:05.:52:07.

it will be dry. But it is still breezy. Midweek, we have some

:52:08.:52:14.

questions. This rippling weather front is giving us some headaches.

:52:15.:52:19.

Some questions about how far north that weather front and the rain will

:52:20.:52:22.

get on Wednesday but be prepared for some rain in southern areas. If the

:52:23.:52:29.

weather front arrives on Wednesday, it could make for a wet night on

:52:30.:52:32.

Wednesday night and it may not have completely cleared on Thursday

:52:33.:52:36.

morning. Generally on Thursday, we are between weather systems so most

:52:37.:52:39.

places dry and bright with sunny spells. Some showers in the West,

:52:40.:52:43.

the next weather system arriving in the far north-west. That is another

:52:44.:52:48.

low which drifted north of Scotland on Friday, plenty of isobars on the

:52:49.:52:52.

chart and a set of the rippling weather front in the third. Friday

:52:53.:52:56.

provides some uncertainty but we could see perhaps a more persistent

:52:57.:52:59.

rain in the South, a breezy day with showers and some spells of pressure.

:53:00.:53:15.

This week we're exploring the Home County of Hertfordshire.

:53:16.:53:19.

Julia's been spending time on the estate of legendary sculptor

:53:20.:53:22.

because it's home to this lovely old orchard.

:53:23.:53:31.

Now, I really do love these trees, but as you can see, some of them

:53:32.:53:35.

and help them produce as much fruit as possible and extend their

:53:36.:53:41.

life for as long as we can so Nicola and I have called in a bit of help.

:53:42.:53:48.

Mike Clarke's ID-ing our varieties.

:53:49.:53:52.

And a team of tree surgeons are here to help get the orchard

:53:53.:53:55.

We've been cutting back the growth that's been blocking

:53:56.:54:00.

the light to a small apple tree hidden in the middle of that lot.

:54:01.:54:04.

And with the lovely tree now revealed,

:54:05.:54:06.

it's time for it to get a little attention.

:54:07.:54:09.

What a difference. It's just incredible, isn't it?

:54:10.:54:13.

You get a feeling now for sort of the actual space

:54:14.:54:15.

and area that all that was taking up and, you know,

:54:16.:54:19.

it's giving the apple tree a lot more light.

:54:20.:54:22.

But the tree itself, it looks absolutely beautiful, doesn't it?

:54:23.:54:25.

You would never have known it was underneath there, would you?

:54:26.:54:28.

Do you know, I've always wanted a bonsai.

:54:29.:54:31.

I think maybe now I'll just put some decking down here

:54:32.:54:34.

All that really remains is for you to remove the last dead

:54:35.:54:42.

The idea being to keep this limb here that you see all

:54:43.:54:47.

So we're going to cut this back to this branch just over here.

:54:48.:54:54.

And then it's, yeah, job done. And do we do...

:54:55.:54:57.

Are we going to do this in one cut or in stages?

:54:58.:54:59.

I'm quite confident you can do this in one cut. Just straight down there?

:55:00.:55:03.

Straight down there, yeah, absolutely. All right then.

:55:04.:55:17.

When you think of the conditions that it was producing

:55:18.:55:27.

the fruit in before, and you think now, it's going to thrive, isn't it?

:55:28.:55:30.

You're not going to have enough crates.

:55:31.:55:33.

That's good. Lovely. Well, listen, thanks for your help.

:55:34.:55:36.

Good. So am I, to be perfectly honest. I'm well pleased with it.

:55:37.:55:40.

It's up there with my favourite trees now. Yeah?

:55:41.:55:44.

Time to see if Mike can put names to our apples.

:55:45.:55:48.

That's the last one off the tree you were working on over there.

:55:49.:55:52.

That's Cox's Pomona, which is quite a local type.

:55:53.:55:55.

I haven't seen these in Hertfordshire.

:55:56.:55:59.

Hang on, you've never seen that in Hertfordshire? No. Wow.

:56:00.:56:03.

Mike can also reveal that the one we've always

:56:04.:56:10.

known as Dad's favourite is actually Brownlees' Russet.

:56:11.:56:14.

Kids' packed lunch is, in fact, Cox's Orange.

:56:15.:56:17.

I think the name comes more from the colour. It has this banana...

:56:18.:56:25.

Somebody here was very keen on apples

:56:26.:56:31.

Yeah, we almost felt the need to do a drum roll before we eat

:56:32.:56:41.

I think that would probably be Keswick Codlin but it could be

:56:42.:56:46.

a West Country cider apple, which they were very keen to have here.

:56:47.:56:51.

Again, it's a sign of people who knew their apples

:56:52.:56:53.

But you've got a wonderful mixture here.

:56:54.:56:59.

We have a Hitchin Pippin here for you.

:57:00.:57:03.

Oh, Mike. So we'll make a start to your new orchard.

:57:04.:57:07.

And it's one of the rarest trees, that's just been rediscovered.

:57:08.:57:11.

Well, listen, thank you very much indeed. Thank you.

:57:12.:57:14.

Make sure you protect it from the rabbits.

:57:15.:57:16.

'Leaving Mike and Nicola to make a map of our varieties,

:57:17.:57:19.

'and Bob and Annie cleaning up the windfall,

:57:20.:57:22.

'I'm off to plant our precious Hitchin Pippin.

:57:23.:57:26.

'And just in time - the gardener's arrived.'

:57:27.:57:29.

Hiya. I can see it now - "Baker's own apple juice."

:57:30.:57:34.

You and Nicola, picture on the label,

:57:35.:57:36.

That's a good idea, actually. We should do it, we should do it.

:57:37.:57:41.

Don't be. Full of character. Take a bite of that.

:57:42.:57:48.

Lovely, isn't it? Quite sharp. Yeah. Nice, though.

:57:49.:57:52.

Good, I'm just planting this new one in.

:57:53.:57:54.

It's going in, there we are, that's good depth.

:57:55.:58:01.

Break it up a bit. Get the old roots out.

:58:02.:58:03.

Now, next week I'm afraid you are going to have to leave your home.

:58:04.:58:10.

You're kidding me. It's very inconvenient for you, isn't it?

:58:11.:58:12.

That's it from Hertfordshire. We're going to be on Cannock Chase

:58:13.:58:17.

and I'm going to be doing a little bit of mountain biking.

:58:18.:58:19.

A little bit? Yeah, just a little bit. You know me. OK, good.

:58:20.:58:22.

Well, I'm going to be celebrating 100 years of County Council Farms,

:58:23.:58:25.

a brilliant way for young people to get involved in farming.

:58:26.:58:28.

Hope you can join us then. See you then. Bye-bye.

:58:29.:58:31.

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