Jurassic Coast Countryfile


Jurassic Coast

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The craggy and dramatic Jurassic Coast

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has hidden secrets for millions of years,

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but one man has made it his life's work to chip his way back

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to the past, with remarkable results.

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Oh, hey! Look at that, behind us.

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-What about that one?

-Oh!

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Ellie is meeting the family who, over three generations,

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have captured the essence of their farming life through photography.

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Dare I say, there's more photos of machinery than of the children.

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We like to show off our investments!

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-Yeah.

-Yeah, we do. And we still do it.

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With more animals being stolen from farms,

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Tom's investigating what's being done

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to put an end to livestock theft.

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The fact that someone else can benefit out of our hard work,

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I think that's the worst thing.

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And, in the third part of our series of special films,

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Adam's discovering how they farm on the other side of the world,

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in New Zealand.

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I arrived in this field and it was a lovely serene environment

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and now it's all kicked off and they are full at work.

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It's just remarkable. I've never seen anything like it.

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The Jurassic Coast.

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95 miles of shoreline, stretching from Exmouth in Devon

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to Studland in Dorset.

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Its layers can be read like a book,

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to reveal 185 million years of history.

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We're at the eastern end of the coast, in Kimmeridge,

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an area rich in fossilised remains that define a specific time

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in the Jurassic age.

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It's known as the Kimmeridgian period, after the Kimmeridge Clay

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that makes up most of the parish that give the area its name.

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But up until recently, not much was known about this part of history -

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but one man has changed all of that.

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Steve Etches has spent most of his working life

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as a plumber but, somehow,

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in his spare time, he's unearthed a fossil collection from this period

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that is of world significance.

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Steve's collection was deemed so important that, back in October,

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all 2,500 specimens were moved from his garage just down the road

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to this purpose-built £5 million museum.

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Steve's interest in fossils was ignited as a five-year-old,

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with the discovery of a small sea urchin.

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His passion for palaeontology has turned him from novice collector

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to leading expert.

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This rib was the first rib I found from the Kimmeridge Clay

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and realised that, when I researched it,

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there was not a lot of information about this particular formation.

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-And so, I thought, I'm going to fill this gap, you know?

-Right.

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I'm going to actually just solely collect Kimmeridgian material.

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And that's what I've done for the last 35, 40 years, I guess.

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Anyone can do it. You haven't got to go to university or do anything like

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that. If I can do it, anyone can do it.

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155 million years ago, Kimmeridge and its shoreline were 200 metres

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down at the bottom of a tropical sea.

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Many of its inhabitants haven't made it easy for Steve to find them.

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How on earth did you get this out?

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This is the lower jaw of a Pliosaur,

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so that's the top of the food chain of the Kimmeridgian.

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This was stuck out of the cliff, actually.

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These back elements fell out in a cliff fall four years prior to me

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getting this. One morning, very early on,

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I went round there and I realised it had fallen and when I just pulled

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the top of the shale back, the tip of this jaw...

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-You're kidding me?

-..stuck up.

-It was there for you?

-It was there.

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I can't believe this place.

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And all this stuff was in your garage?

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Yeah! No, it was. Well...

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My wife's a very happy woman now.

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This Lottery-funded building holds many world firsts previously unknown

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to science. Once they'd been freed from the ground, the real work

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begins - discovering how the creatures lived and died.

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It gets more exciting. This is the work area.

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Hello, Carla, how are you?

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-Hi! Good, thank you.

-Really nice to see you.

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-And you, Matt.

-Steve's daughter Carla is by his side, to help.

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It's a real family thing, this...

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-It is now, yes.

-It is.

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-After all these years.

-Back in the late '70s, early '80s,

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when Dad first started collecting,

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we used to get dragged down the beach, both my brother and I,

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but I've got a new-found respect.

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Just talk us through what we've got here, then.

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It's an ichthyosaur, so this is akin to a modern dolphin.

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It's quite a big ichthyosaur. Can you see how long the snout is?

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That fits on to there, yup.

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OK. Erm...

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You've got all the pectoral girdle here, part of the flipper here...

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-Mm-hm.

-..and then just the ribs, the dorsal ribs running down.

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This is only half of the specimen.

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Steve's ichthyosaur finds have already revealed the same diet

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as modern dolphins, with fish and squid remains

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still clearly visible millions of years later.

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And is it the life story, then,

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of these creatures that fascinates you?

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Well, the story really is, what does it yield?

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What particular aspect does this particular specimen show us that

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-another one doesn't?

-And now we've got a chance that we can document

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everything from the moment that it's found,

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we can follow that whole process through and actually have visitors

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that come to the museum see the story unravel and unlock

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those stories from deep time, for everybody to see.

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Only 10% of the collection is actually on display.

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Many more fossils fill drawer upon drawer

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in temperature-controlled storage.

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Oh, hey! Look at that behind us!

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The fine Kimmeridge Clay may preserved specimens well,

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but it's Steve's incredible skill at cleaning them that really brings

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them back to life.

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Oh, right, so what's going on in here? It's basically a fish, is it?

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It is a fish, yeah. Species unknown at the moment.

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You can start off with an air pen,

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which actually can actually just chip away the...

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-..stone, sort of, quite easily.

-Yup.

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Then, we'll perhaps use a diamond grinder...

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Just grind that just above the bone...

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So, you're about 5mm above it?

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When, I guess, you think about how raw the process is and then how fine

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it becomes. You're out there with your rucksack, obviously,

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hauling it all here and then you're chipping away for a bit and it gets

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-more and more fine.

-It's quite brutal. More and more refined, yeah,

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until we get to this sort of stage, yeah.

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The softer clay is cleaned away,

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revealing the harder fossil in all its glory.

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We're using sodium bicarbonate, which is quite sharp, but soft.

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Sometimes, though, Matt, you're cleaning just that

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particular element, you're spending all day doing this,

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but don't look at it in an overall view and then stand back

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and think, "My God!" You suddenly realise what the whole thing

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-reveals, you know?

-Yeah.

-It's quite a...

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Extremely satisfying job.

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You see all the fin just being revealed.

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OK, beautiful.

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Steve has opened the door to a little-known time in our history.

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His collection is a remarkable asset for both the public and experts.

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And all from this quiet corner of our beautiful country.

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Now, for farmers,

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losing animals to thieves has become an increasingly common problem over

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the last few years,

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so what is being done to fight back against the livestock rustlers?

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Here's Tom.

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Some crimes, it seems, are as old as time.

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Humans started farming animals around 10,000 years ago.

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From the moment we figured out the value of their meat, milk or eggs,

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we placed a price tag on livestock.

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And anything worth a lot of money, for some, is worth stealing.

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Livestock rustling is an ancient crime.

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Sports cars or smartphones may be more obvious targets these days,

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but livestock rustling still happens and more often than you might think.

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ENGINE REVS

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Four years ago, there was an unusual spike in livestock theft,

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driven by high market values.

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Stock prices have since fallen, but the thefts keep on happening.

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Since 2013,

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it's estimated a further 300,000 animals

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have vanished from farms across the UK,

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at a cost of more than £20 million to the industry.

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There are 180 lambs in this pen and you wouldn't have thought they were

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as easy to steal as a car, or as valuable, but last summer,

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a flock of 220 sheep, worth £20,000, disappeared overnight

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from this very farm.

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They belonged to Somerset farmer John Vigar.

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His family have raised sheep on this land for four generations

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but nothing could have prepared John for what happened last summer.

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Well, it was the early hours of Monday, the 25th of July...

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It looked as though they were hunted down the road a couple of hundred

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metres and loaded up in a neighbouring gateway.

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Nobody heard or saw anything.

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Eight o'clock the following morning,

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the field was empty and all the sheep gone.

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John lost a third of his flock that night -

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80 ewes and 140 fat lambs,

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ready for market. And he wasn't the only farmer to be targeted.

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600 sheep disappeared from the local area in the same month.

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What was that impact on your business?

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We valued them straight away at £20,000.

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The 80 ewes were a big part of our breeding flock.

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That was a major headache, of where to get the replacement ewes.

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And what about the impact on you and your family?

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Gutted. We began to feel mad.

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I think that's the best way to describe it and I think I've been

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livid ever since. The fact that someone else can benefit out of our

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hard work, I think that's the worst thing.

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What do you think happened to them?

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We've got no inkling, really, no trace at all.

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It's not the first time I've tried to find out what happens to stolen

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livestock. Four years ago, I asked the same question.

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We haven't really got an idea at the moment.

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I think in many cases, the evidence has literally been eaten by the time

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the investigation gets underway.

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The insurance company Tim represents, NFU Mutual,

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has paid out another £7 million in claims for stolen livestock since he

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and I last spoke.

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Good morning, Tim.

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Good morning. How are you, this fine morning?

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Not too bad at all. So what have you seen?

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Well, the big thing we've noticed is that, after the very big jump

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in livestock theft in 2013, it hasn't really gone down very much.

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Nobody is sure quite how sheep are disappearing and where the meat is

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ending up. It does seem clear that the majority are getting into

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the meat trade, simply because so few are recovered alive.

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Every animal that goes through the slaughter system is identified

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by its ear tag and paperwork.

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This ensures the meat we eat is safe and traceable, but illegal meat

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from stolen animals bypasses all those checks.

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That risk to public health means livestock theft is being taken

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seriously by the police. More so than four years ago.

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So how much has changed since we last spoke?

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The massive change is that three years ago, there was simply

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no effective solution to livestock theft out there.

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Now, there are some really encouraging schemes

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coming from police in different parts of the country.

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-So the fight-back is on?

-The fight is on.

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Indeed, the first force to fight back was Lancashire Police.

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They've teamed up with local farmers, like John Taylor,

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in a livestock-theft prevention initiative.

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Just like our control, if you

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get into that space and they'll get upset and start to move...

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You come back out again, they'll stay there.

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'John hosts police workshops on his farm near Lancaster.

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'Officers learn how to identify,

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'tag and handle sheep, in case

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'they ever have to deal with live evidence.

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'It's a challenge if you're used to working in an urban environment.'

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Go on, Carl, you can do better than that.

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That's it.

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Livestock theft in Lancashire has more than halved in the last

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two years, so the regional approach is working.

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But this is a national problem.

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We know stolen animals could turn up anywhere in the country,

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so do the police have a national strategy?

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They're working on one.

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The National Police Chief's Council says they want every single force

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to build intelligence,

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coordinate joint operations and share best practice across the UK.

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In a nutshell, that means working together.

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Back in Somerset, local police are on John Vigar's farm.

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-How are you?

-Good to see you again.

-And you, too.

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Now, you were going to tell me what progress you're making on trying

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-to find our sheep.

-Well, the investigation is still ongoing...

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Somerset has been hard-hit by livestock thieves.

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Since 2011, 3,720 animals, mainly sheep,

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have been reported stolen in Somerset alone

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and only 248 have ended up being returned to their owners.

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It sounds like this force could benefit from a few ideas from around

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the country.

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In the spirit of collaboration,

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Countryfile has invited the Lancashire team to compare notes

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with Avon and Somerset police, along with our two farmers.

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Lancashire's rural crime coordinator kicks off the discussion.

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We started off by training the officers in the basics.

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What sheep do we have in Lancashire?

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If you stop a trailer or a vehicle carrying livestock,

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what questions should you be asking?

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What documents should you be looking for?

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If you do believe they're stolen, what are you going to do with them?

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How are you going to move a trailer full of sheep at two o'clock

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in the morning, which is invariably when these things happen?

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Avon and Somerset police are interested in the practical advice

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from Lancashire farmer John Taylor.

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Hang on a minute, are these sheep or livestock,

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are they reasonably disease-free?

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Do we have to isolate them? What do we have to do?

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You're obviously part of that farming network, John.

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-Yeah.

-If we set something up in our area,

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is that something you'd be interested in, John, or not?

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Yes, it would. When I lost my 220 back in the summer,

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I expected an immediate response then,

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so I think it's only fair to offer that facility.

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You're all at it already!

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It's like some sort of police outreach conference here!

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I'm thoroughly redundant,

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but you seem to be learning a lot from each other.

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But can Avon and Somerset help with that one question I keep asking?

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Where do you think this stolen livestock is ending up?

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It does appear that some of it at least is going to abattoirs that may

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be working illegally out of hours or, indeed, illegal abattoirs,

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and we think that's a nationwide issue.

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This is organised criminality.

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And they are looking to cutting-edge

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technology to beat these organised criminals.

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The industry are developing small tagging devices,

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which would end up in the sheep's stomach.

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You'd know remotely where that she was?

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There's a potential to put a tracker into the bolus, as well,

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that could send a text message to your mobile phone, so, yes,

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if your sheep were on the move,

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you could find out, potentially, where they were.

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How does that idea strike you as a farmer?

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The bolus with a tracker that emits a signal, that would be ideal.

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But, obviously, there's a lot of work to be done on that.

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How useful has exercise been for you in Somerset?

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It's been absolutely fantastic.

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We've had the opportunity to meet the Lancashire team,

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not just have to pick up the phone to them.

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We've spent several hours already picking their brains on some

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challenges that we've come across.

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It's great we've got Lancashire here today,

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taking rural crime so much more seriously,

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because the impact on, whether it's farmers or the rural community,

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is really significant.

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John has been a relatively recent victim of one of these crimes.

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What does all this make you feel?

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It felt like a real local problem, as if it was just happening to me.

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So it is quite refreshing today to know that it is a national problem

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and it's trying to be treated with a national solution.

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It's a troubling fact that thieves are still getting away

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with this terrible crime. Farmers' prized animals driven away

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in darkness and never seen again.

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Livestock thieves have no regard for animal welfare,

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the traceability of our food or the livelihoods of farmers,

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but at least, now the industry is fighting back.

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Farmers and police forces getting together, to try and outsmart

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the criminals. Let's hope it gets results across the country.

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For me, the brightest jewels that crown Dorset's majestic coastline

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lie here, on the Isle of Purbeck.

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And from this magnificent vantage point,

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it's hard to imagine a more beautiful,

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or rural place, to live and work.

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For one typically tight-knit farming family, this is home.

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What makes them special is that, for more than 50 years,

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their life here has been documented through snapshots and slides,

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creating an exceptional record of Dorset farming through the decades.

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Meet the Holes.

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To help you - and me - get a handle on who's who,

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here's a quick guide to the family tree.

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Guy is the head of the family.

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Brothers John, Andy and Jerry share the farm tenancy.

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The grandchildren, Mark,

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Liz and Ben are carrying on the family farming tradition.

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Every morning, all year round,

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the family will gather for a pre-breakfast pow-wow,

0:20:090:20:13

to discuss who's doing what and, on a mixed arable, sheep,

0:20:130:20:16

dairy and beef farm of more than 2,000 acres,

0:20:160:20:19

there's always plenty going on.

0:20:190:20:21

Morning, everybody. Hi, John, all right?

0:20:210:20:24

-How are you doing?

-Good, morning.

0:20:240:20:25

On a farm this size, sharing out the work is vital.

0:20:250:20:28

I'm responsible for the dairy and accounts.

0:20:280:20:32

Andy has responsibility for the arable and the sheep.

0:20:330:20:37

Jerry does all the young stock - the beef cattle, the dairy heifers.

0:20:370:20:40

As the younger members of the family head off to tackle another day

0:20:460:20:49

on the farm, John's introducing me to

0:20:490:20:51

the man who got things up and running more than 60 years ago -

0:20:510:20:55

his 93-year-old dad, Guy Hole.

0:20:550:20:58

So, here we go, Ellie. This is my father.

0:20:590:21:02

Dad, this is Ellie.

0:21:020:21:03

Hello! Hi, Guy, it's lovely to meet you.

0:21:030:21:06

Nice to meet you.

0:21:060:21:07

Now, Guy isn't a native of Purbeck, or Dorset...

0:21:070:21:12

or even the UK.

0:21:120:21:14

In fact, he comes from more than 11,000 miles away - New Zealand.

0:21:140:21:19

In 1941, aged just 18,

0:21:190:21:22

he was conscripted into the New Zealand Army.

0:21:220:21:25

But a severe lack of farm workers

0:21:250:21:28

meant Guy had to swap pistols for ploughs.

0:21:280:21:31

After two years of vital farming to feed his homeland,

0:21:310:21:34

Guy went on to see military service in Italy and post-war Japan.

0:21:340:21:39

At 25, Guy was demobbed, hoping to secure a farm of his own.

0:21:390:21:44

But with opportunities scarce in New Zealand at the time,

0:21:440:21:46

he decided to take a chance on the other side of the world.

0:21:460:21:50

Did you know anyone in the UK when you made your journey over?

0:21:500:21:54

I had no-one.

0:21:540:21:56

And so, I wrote to Lord Bledisloe,

0:21:560:22:00

who was a past governor of New Zealand

0:22:000:22:04

and he wrote back and said, "Thank you for your letter,

0:22:040:22:08

"I will pass it on to the Young Farmers' Federation in London".

0:22:080:22:16

Thanks to this contact at the Young Farmers',

0:22:170:22:19

Guy was able to find his first job.

0:22:190:22:22

Just as a farm labourer,

0:22:220:22:24

at 90 shillings a week, um...

0:22:240:22:28

He found me digs at £2 a week.

0:22:290:22:32

And that was enough to get you started.

0:22:320:22:34

It...was enough to get me started.

0:22:340:22:39

Guy was on his way.

0:22:390:22:41

Following a few more lucky breaks of his own making,

0:22:410:22:44

he eventually settled in Dorset, marrying local girl Mary Ellen.

0:22:440:22:48

And now, here you are on this farm.

0:22:480:22:51

It's grown to be a fantastic size and your family are all around you.

0:22:510:22:55

It must be a great feeling to see this.

0:22:550:22:57

Extraordinary. Extraordinary.

0:22:570:23:00

I'm very proud.

0:23:000:23:02

And rightly so.

0:23:030:23:04

The family have come a long way

0:23:040:23:07

since Guy first landed on these shores.

0:23:070:23:09

And thanks to an almost continuous series of candid photos and slides

0:23:100:23:15

from the family album, we can trace not just the family's history,

0:23:150:23:19

but also that of modern farming,

0:23:190:23:20

so we've popped next door to the dining room to have a look at a few of them.

0:23:200:23:25

Spanning more than a half-century,

0:23:250:23:27

these photographs and slides of

0:23:270:23:29

the whole family are a priceless personal archive

0:23:290:23:32

that richly illustrates just how much things have changed.

0:23:320:23:36

This picture was taken in 1958.

0:23:380:23:40

It actually depicts Dad's purchase of a brand-new cab to go on top.

0:23:400:23:45

He's written on the back of the slide, "£40 I paid, good value."

0:23:450:23:49

Aw! Couple of lambs!

0:23:490:23:51

That's me on the left and Andy on the right feeding a couple of orphan

0:23:510:23:55

lambs. Mum and Dad on the steps of the house.

0:23:550:23:58

Love it.

0:23:580:23:59

This is feeding the calves.

0:24:020:24:03

Again, it's me and Mother, feeding the calves.

0:24:030:24:06

Father had made up an outside pen where we could put them in to feed them.

0:24:060:24:09

She's... Strangely enough, Dad is actually allergic to cattle.

0:24:090:24:14

Too much close handling of cattle and he reacts to it.

0:24:140:24:17

That's no good for a farmer!

0:24:170:24:18

-No, I know!

-So that was your job and your mother's job?

0:24:180:24:20

Yep, feeding the calves.

0:24:200:24:22

Dare I say, there's more photos of machinery than there are the children.

0:24:250:24:28

We like to show off our investments.

0:24:280:24:29

-Yeah.

-Yeah, we do. And we still do it.

0:24:290:24:32

Right, this was February 1979.

0:24:330:24:36

-Deep in a snowdrift!

-We were completely snowed in.

0:24:360:24:38

My mum talks about this winter,

0:24:380:24:40

about the snowdrifts being as high as this.

0:24:400:24:42

I think it's probably stuck in the memory.

0:24:420:24:43

We had no snowploughs. The council couldn't cope with it,

0:24:430:24:46

so we were left with our really rather small tractors

0:24:460:24:49

to dig our way out.

0:24:490:24:51

What a fashion statement, John! Want to talk me through this?

0:24:530:24:57

I'm slightly embarrassed that this one has got put in!

0:24:570:25:00

That's feeding the cattle, and it has to be done properly.

0:25:000:25:03

With a cowboy outfit on?

0:25:030:25:05

It's the only way to feed the cattle!

0:25:050:25:06

And a six-shooter at his hip.

0:25:060:25:09

And that's the end of the little sideshow.

0:25:110:25:13

That's good, what a show.

0:25:130:25:15

Today, it's not just John and his brothers keeping the show on

0:25:170:25:20

the road, but the whole family.

0:25:200:25:22

And to ensure the farm that their intrepid grandparents established

0:25:220:25:26

more than 50 years ago survives for another half-century,

0:25:260:25:29

the family are continuing to diversify, and in some quite unexpected ways.

0:25:290:25:34

Later, I'll discover how the tradition of family photography is

0:25:370:25:41

being used to jump-start a business plan that's far from woolly.

0:25:410:25:44

MATT: Now it's time for our winter warmer.

0:25:540:25:56

Last autumn, we asked some well-known faces, from DJs to comedians...

0:25:570:26:02

It's a seal! False alarm, everyone, it was a seal.

0:26:020:26:05

..chefs to singers...

0:26:050:26:07

# My old man said follow the van... #

0:26:070:26:11

..which part of our magnificent countryside was special to them.

0:26:110:26:15

This week, comedian Susan Calman voyages across the Firth of Clyde to

0:26:210:26:25

the beautiful Isle of Arran.

0:26:250:26:27

I've been coming to the island of Arran since I was five.

0:26:360:26:39

We came here for summer holidays every year and we've been coming

0:26:410:26:45

back ever since, so this place is really...

0:26:450:26:48

It's just part of me.

0:26:480:26:49

When we got on that CalMac ferry at Ardrossan,

0:26:520:26:55

it felt like holiday had started.

0:26:550:26:57

I always used to come up and stand on the front of the deck, here,

0:27:010:27:04

so I could see how close we were getting to the island.

0:27:040:27:07

Scotland in miniature, they call it, and it really is,

0:27:080:27:11

cos it has the lowlands, beautiful scenery, the mountain ranges,

0:27:110:27:16

and it's just extraordinary,

0:27:160:27:17

because everything that you can find across there is here.

0:27:170:27:21

This particular beach,

0:27:310:27:32

Blackwaterfoot beach, is where we spent most of our time.

0:27:320:27:35

We're Scottish - even if it was raining, we were on this beach.

0:27:360:27:40

There's a lot of wind coming along here

0:27:420:27:45

but you're not going to let a gale-force wind spoil a summer holiday,

0:27:450:27:47

so we'd put up the windbreak and we'd go swimming in that sea.

0:27:470:27:51

The temperature would vary from frozen to very frozen.

0:27:510:27:56

But do you know what?

0:27:560:27:57

It makes you hardy for life

0:27:580:28:00

having to smile for a photograph whilst freezing.

0:28:000:28:04

SHE CHUCKLES

0:28:070:28:08

I'm not going in again!

0:28:100:28:12

One of the reasons why I find this place so peaceful is...

0:28:160:28:21

..you can go for a walk for 5 or 10 minutes, 20 minutes,

0:28:230:28:26

and you find the most extraordinary things.

0:28:260:28:29

The Machrie standing stones is in the middle of this beautiful...

0:28:330:28:37

valley.

0:28:370:28:38

This feels like the heart of the island and, I mean,

0:28:410:28:45

they think these were probably erected about 2000 BC.

0:28:450:28:49

No-one quite knows why they're here, there's a theory about midsummer, but...

0:28:490:28:54

you can just feel the history that,

0:28:540:28:55

for thousands and thousands of years,

0:28:550:28:58

people have been coming and living and working on the land.

0:28:580:29:01

I brought my wife here and she said, "Oh, what's it like?"

0:29:040:29:06

And I said, "Oh, it's like Stonehenge!"

0:29:060:29:09

When she arrived, it's fair to say she was slightly disappointed.

0:29:090:29:12

But when you come and stand in this stone circle,

0:29:120:29:16

it's a slightly spiritual place and, for me,

0:29:160:29:19

this is one of the places that makes me come back again and again, and

0:29:190:29:24

I think it made her realise why it was so special, as well.

0:29:240:29:27

The wildlife on this island is just...

0:29:390:29:41

It is spectacular.

0:29:410:29:43

When we stay here,

0:29:450:29:47

we have a map of the island on the wall

0:29:470:29:49

and when you come to the island,

0:29:490:29:51

you note down where you've seen such magnificent animals.

0:29:510:29:54

I've seen lots of beautiful things - seals, sharks, birds, red squirrels,

0:29:570:30:03

but I've never seen an otter, and I understand this is the place where

0:30:030:30:07

the otters hang out. I'm going to speak to Lucy Wallace,

0:30:070:30:10

who lives on the island, who's a bona fide otter expert.

0:30:100:30:13

-Hello!

-Hi, Susan.

-Nice to see you. Beautiful morning.

0:30:140:30:18

This is the place to be for otters, is that right?

0:30:180:30:20

It's a good place for spotting otters, yes.

0:30:200:30:22

It's a rocky shore,

0:30:220:30:24

it's quite shallow.

0:30:240:30:26

We've got a lot of kelp beds out there,

0:30:260:30:28

stuffed with the kind of things that otters like to eat.

0:30:280:30:30

While we're waiting for the otters...

0:30:310:30:34

Please come out, I've never seen an otter! Please!

0:30:340:30:38

Right over there...

0:30:380:30:39

-Yeah.

-..are some rather happy seals.

0:30:390:30:42

Stunning common seals.

0:30:420:30:44

At this time of year,

0:30:440:30:46

they're moulting into their winter coats and that happens best on land.

0:30:460:30:53

I think there's one lying on his back.

0:30:530:30:55

That's wonderful!

0:30:550:30:57

My cats do that - they just lie on their back on the sofa,

0:30:570:31:00

just enjoying themselves.

0:31:000:31:01

That's a tummy that needs tickling, isn't it?!

0:31:010:31:03

I don't know if I would! What else is out there?

0:31:030:31:06

There's a little oystercatcher down on the shore.

0:31:060:31:10

And a lovely heron fishing amongst the kelp.

0:31:110:31:14

So all you need to do now...

0:31:140:31:17

is find me an otter!

0:31:170:31:18

Oh! No, it's a seal, it's a seal.

0:31:270:31:29

It's a seal.

0:31:290:31:30

False alarm, everyone. It was a seal.

0:31:300:31:32

It would be a good call, I think, if we were to pack up and move along

0:31:340:31:37

-the coast a bit.

-OK. Right, let's do it.

0:31:370:31:40

There are otters to find.

0:31:400:31:43

Marching away as quick as we can!

0:31:430:31:45

I know!

0:31:450:31:47

It's exciting.

0:31:470:31:49

On the covered rocks, there, waves breaking,

0:31:510:31:54

otter just came out onto those rocks, went back in again.

0:31:540:31:57

-So straight in line with the lighthouse?

-Straight line with the lighthouse.

0:31:570:32:00

There's loads of sort of spray and surf.

0:32:000:32:02

Right on the top, and he's eating a fish.

0:32:040:32:06

Oh, yeah!

0:32:060:32:07

Wow!

0:32:080:32:09

Wow! He's loving that!

0:32:100:32:12

It's quite far out, isn't it, actually?

0:32:170:32:19

-Yeah.

-It's quite far out.

0:32:190:32:21

-We think it's a he?

-Looks quite big from here.

0:32:210:32:25

It's a long way off, can't be sure,

0:32:250:32:26

but looks like quite a big individual and

0:32:260:32:29

my gut feeling is that that's a dog otter.

0:32:290:32:31

That's my first otter!

0:32:330:32:35

I'm so thrilled!

0:32:350:32:36

Thank you very much! I've been wanting to see an otter for years

0:32:360:32:39

and I've finally seen one...

0:32:390:32:40

sitting, bold as you like, having lunch.

0:32:400:32:44

-Oh, he's shaking - on to the next rock.

-On the next rock along.

0:32:440:32:47

Thank you so much.

0:32:480:32:50

Oh, that's grand!

0:32:500:32:51

There we go.

0:32:560:32:57

This place just makes me feel...

0:33:000:33:02

..at peace. I mean, you're surrounded by somewhere this

0:33:030:33:07

beautiful, you can't help but be happy.

0:33:070:33:09

This is October.

0:33:130:33:14

It's not always like this.

0:33:150:33:17

I could go for a swim. I'm not going to go for a swim.

0:33:190:33:22

Now Adam's in New Zealand, continuing his incredible journey.

0:33:330:33:37

This week, he's helping muster sheep on some pretty extreme terrain and

0:33:370:33:41

finding out how they keep these mountains looking so green.

0:33:410:33:44

I first visited New Zealand 30 years ago with my now business partner,

0:33:530:33:58

Duncan.

0:33:580:33:59

But a lot has changed since that trip.

0:33:590:34:02

When I arrived this time,

0:34:020:34:03

there were several farms I was hoping to visit across this vast landscape

0:34:030:34:07

but a natural disaster had struck the country and I was forced

0:34:070:34:11

to change my plans.

0:34:110:34:12

An earthquake had devastated parts of the South Island.

0:34:160:34:19

It caused mass destruction.

0:34:190:34:21

My plans have changed a bit,

0:34:250:34:26

because I was supposed to be heading down to a farm near Kaikoura,

0:34:260:34:29

but that's where the earthquake hit recently and there's a lot of

0:34:290:34:32

damage to the buildings and roads,

0:34:320:34:33

so now I'm heading to a sheep farm where things are supposed to be

0:34:330:34:36

a bit safer. But just take a look at this - this is evidence of

0:34:360:34:40

the earthquake where the road has collapsed and there's been a landslip.

0:34:400:34:43

Also, they're now talking about more aftershock quakes.

0:34:430:34:47

It's all a bit worrying, really.

0:34:470:34:49

I'm heading to a farm near the small coastal village of Havelock in the

0:34:530:34:56

Marlborough region.

0:34:560:34:57

Romney sheep thrive in this area.

0:35:050:35:07

It's a breed I farm at home

0:35:070:35:09

but the New Zealand Romneys are renowned for being a better

0:35:090:35:12

all-round sheep. I'm getting involved in a sheep muster

0:35:120:35:15

and hoping to find out what they do differently.

0:35:150:35:19

All right, Bill? Good to see you.

0:35:190:35:21

Bill Brownlee and his family have always farmed this breed.

0:35:210:35:25

-It's not a bad spot, is it?

-No, no, it's not a bad spot, here.

0:35:250:35:28

-I'd have to say that.

-And did you feel the earthquakes recently?

0:35:280:35:31

Certainly did, the first one was probably the strongest I had felt.

0:35:310:35:35

-Is it scary?

-It makes you wonder when it's going to stop, yes.

0:35:350:35:40

And if you're out in the fields, say, working on the farm,

0:35:400:35:42

can you feel it out here?

0:35:420:35:44

I can't say I have, but if you're in

0:35:440:35:46

a vehicle and stopped, or in a house,

0:35:460:35:48

-you certainly do.

-And how long have your family farmed around here, then?

0:35:480:35:52

We've been here for over 100 years.

0:35:520:35:54

-Really?

-Mm.

-I understand that pretty much half of the sheep in New Zealand

0:35:540:35:59

-are Romneys, now.

-That's right, yes.

0:35:590:36:01

Cos of their versatility, I guess.

0:36:010:36:03

I mean, back home, they obviously come from the Romney marshes and

0:36:030:36:06

they're fondly known as the Kent sheep.

0:36:060:36:07

It's flat land, very marshy, and here they are in New Zealand,

0:36:070:36:11

roaming around up on the mountains.

0:36:110:36:12

-Mm!

-But this isn't your farm, is it?

0:36:120:36:14

No, it's not. This belongs to Paul and Muff Newton, who are away, and

0:36:140:36:19

Grant, the stockman, wondered if

0:36:190:36:21

I could come over and give him a hand to shift some of them.

0:36:210:36:23

-So, can I give you a hand?

-You certainly can.

0:36:230:36:25

A bit of free labour from the other side of the world?!

0:36:250:36:28

We head into the mountains, where the muster is well under way.

0:36:350:36:38

Go on, ewes and lambs.

0:36:380:36:39

HE WHISTLES

0:36:390:36:40

We need to move the flock to another hillside,

0:36:400:36:43

where there's plenty of fresh pasture.

0:36:430:36:45

Back home, our average flock size would be a lot smaller than here in

0:36:460:36:50

New Zealand. What sort of numbers are we talking about on this farm?

0:36:500:36:53

5,000 breeding ewes on this property.

0:36:530:36:56

Some of the farms are bigger, you've got 10,000, 15,000.

0:36:560:36:59

Wow, that's a lot of sheep to look after!

0:36:590:37:00

-It is.

-Makes my 700 look like peanuts!

0:37:000:37:03

Goodness me!

0:37:030:37:04

It's just small-time for you.

0:37:050:37:06

I know! We're just playing at it.

0:37:060:37:08

-That's right.

-And it is about those economies of scale, isn't it?

0:37:080:37:12

That's why you can produce lamb so cheaply.

0:37:120:37:14

-That's right.

-But my lamb would still taste nicer, wouldn't it?

0:37:140:37:17

Ah, no, I don't think so.

0:37:170:37:18

And what makes these Romneys so suitable to New Zealand?

0:37:200:37:22

Good wool, good lambs.

0:37:220:37:25

And is that something that's been developed through selection,

0:37:250:37:28

the way the New Zealanders farm?

0:37:280:37:30

I guess, over the years, the genetics have improved.

0:37:300:37:33

So you've selectively bred for sheep that can survive,

0:37:330:37:36

-that look after themselves.

-They do, yeah.

0:37:360:37:38

They're not mollycoddled like the ones in the UK.

0:37:380:37:41

They live off this green stuff,

0:37:410:37:42

-rather than feeding them sheep nuts and grain.

-Correct, yeah.

0:37:420:37:45

Goodness me, Bill, is this earthquake damage?

0:37:470:37:50

I guess it's had a bit of a shake and the water's got in behind it.

0:37:500:37:54

-And caused the slip?

-And caused the slip, yes.

0:37:540:37:56

I remember seeing that bit on the news with those Hereford cattle caught on the top of that landslip.

0:37:560:38:00

Yes, they were very lucky.

0:38:000:38:04

Well, I think they all look very happy out on that fresh pasture,

0:38:050:38:09

-Bill.

-I think they'll appreciate that, all right.

0:38:090:38:11

And this grassland management over here is very particular, isn't it?

0:38:110:38:16

Yes, you've got to keep it

0:38:160:38:18

under control, stop it getting too long.

0:38:180:38:20

When the grass is shorter, it's full of sugars, isn't it?

0:38:200:38:23

-It is, yes.

-More palatable and more nutritious for the sheep.

0:38:230:38:25

I notice you've got the hill here blocked up so you can keep moving

0:38:250:38:29

them around. The same with the dairy cattle in these paddocks,

0:38:290:38:31

-managing the grass.

-Yes.

-Incredible, really.

0:38:310:38:34

One thing I've learned on my journey so far is that New Zealanders don't

0:38:380:38:42

do things by halves.

0:38:420:38:44

Down on Bill's farm, his fertiliser pile is...

0:38:440:38:46

well, pretty substantial.

0:38:460:38:49

Well, this is one of the secrets of keeping the countryside green.

0:38:510:38:54

-What is it, then, Bill?

-It's mussel shells.

0:38:540:38:56

This is the... When they arrive here,

0:38:570:38:59

they're the mussel shell, the green-lipped mussel shell...

0:38:590:39:02

-Oh, yes.

-..and then we crush it up into, like, a lime product.

0:39:020:39:06

And so the lime is crushed and produces nutrients for the soil, does it?

0:39:060:39:10

-It does.

-Helps the grass grow?

0:39:100:39:12

It does, yeah, and it's got a lot of nutrients in the shell.

0:39:120:39:14

-Amazing.

-Especially in the membrane alone.

0:39:140:39:17

And how do you spread it on top of those hills?

0:39:170:39:19

You can't get a tractor up there.

0:39:190:39:20

It's a bit of a secret, we can't really tell you that!

0:39:200:39:22

I'm going to push you for an answer!

0:39:220:39:24

THEY LAUGH

0:39:240:39:25

Luckily, Bill agrees to tell me.

0:39:320:39:34

So I'm off to a nearby farm.

0:39:340:39:35

I've been told to bring my earplugs and expect mayhem.

0:39:380:39:40

But when I arrive, the setting couldn't be more tranquil.

0:39:420:39:45

I'm not sure I'm in the right place.

0:39:450:39:47

But all of a sudden...

0:39:480:39:49

This process, called top dressing, was started in the 1940s.

0:40:000:40:04

Returning World War II fighter pilots, who were keen to keep flying,

0:40:040:40:08

developed ways to fertilise steep and inaccessible hillsides using

0:40:080:40:12

small aircraft.

0:40:120:40:14

I arrived in this field and it was a lovely, serene environment,

0:40:160:40:20

with bees and skylarks singing

0:40:200:40:22

and then the plane turned up and a loader

0:40:220:40:24

turned up and now it's all kicked off and they are full at work.

0:40:240:40:28

It's just remarkable, I've never seen anything like it.

0:40:280:40:31

The plane comes in, the hatch opens on top of the plane,

0:40:320:40:35

the loader goes in, the fertiliser is dumped into the top of the plane

0:40:350:40:40

and away it goes again. There's no messing around here.

0:40:400:40:43

That's it, he's fully loaded. Takeoff.

0:40:470:40:50

The turnaround - comes in, lands, loads and gone - matter of minutes,

0:40:590:41:02

-isn't it?

-Yeah, well, when you're paying an amount of money that we charge,

0:41:020:41:06

it needs to be done fairly quickly.

0:41:060:41:08

Terry Nuttall has worked in this industry for more than 20 years.

0:41:100:41:13

-We are a grass-growing country.

-Yeah.

0:41:150:41:18

Our meat and wool guys wholly and solely, really, rely on growing grass.

0:41:180:41:23

And by fertilising it, we get grass growth pretty well all year round.

0:41:230:41:27

I suppose you can use tractors down on the flat land like here,

0:41:270:41:29

but it needs a plane to be able to get that fertiliser onto

0:41:290:41:32

the hills, which there's a lot of in New Zealand.

0:41:320:41:34

There are a lot of hills.

0:41:340:41:35

That's why we have a lot of aeroplanes putting fertiliser on them.

0:41:350:41:38

Pretty scary, being up in that plane.

0:41:380:41:40

How long has the pilot been flying?

0:41:400:41:42

I think he started flying in 1966.

0:41:420:41:45

-So about 50 years of experience.

-About 50 years.

-Goodness me.

0:41:450:41:47

So he knows what he's doing.

0:41:470:41:49

He's still doing it, so obviously he does!

0:41:490:41:52

Looking at the landing strip here,

0:41:520:41:54

I imagined it to be like a bowling green -

0:41:540:41:57

mown and clean and marked out.

0:41:570:41:59

-It's just a field.

-It is.

0:41:590:42:01

When he comes in, he bounces in and then comes in to the loader.

0:42:010:42:05

That was a pretty smooth landing, that one.

0:42:060:42:08

You know, one in ten is not too bad, is it?

0:42:080:42:10

ADAM LAUGHS

0:42:100:42:12

In my visit here, it's just reminded me of that New Zealand attitude of

0:42:230:42:28

can-do, go get it, push on.

0:42:280:42:30

It's like you're still breaking the country in.

0:42:300:42:33

We've always been a nation of can-dos.

0:42:330:42:35

And I suppose that freedom from legislation has allowed you to

0:42:350:42:38

really get on and develop areas for agriculture.

0:42:380:42:40

We've been extremely fortunate, I suppose,

0:42:400:42:42

that it has been recognised that we need to have the freedom to develop.

0:42:420:42:47

And we still do, probably,

0:42:490:42:50

have a lot more freedom than lots of countries do.

0:42:500:42:53

Which is a good thing.

0:42:530:42:55

I mean, it's the only way that we probably survive.

0:42:550:42:58

And it does look beautifully green. There's a lot of grass growing

0:43:000:43:02

-right up on the tops.

-It's been a good spring for us for growing

0:43:020:43:05

grass, it really has. You look up there on the hill and watch what's going on and you

0:43:050:43:09

think, "My God, there will be some fat animals coming off there."

0:43:090:43:12

Yeah. You'll be sending them all the way over to my supermarket shelves.

0:43:120:43:15

Absolutely!

0:43:150:43:16

-Can't be doing with that!

-The best meat that you'll ever have.

0:43:170:43:20

Well, we'll have to agree to disagree on that one.

0:43:200:43:24

Next week is the grand finale of my trip and I'll be helping muster some

0:43:260:43:30

cattle with an inspirational character - Ian Brickell.

0:43:300:43:34

Well, that's the young cattle through the first gateway, there's

0:43:340:43:37

still quite a long way to go and I said to Ian,

0:43:370:43:39

"Shall I go back and get the buggy?"

0:43:390:43:41

And he said, "No, no, I'll go. I'll just run down." This guy is 78!

0:43:410:43:44

It's quite remarkable.

0:43:440:43:46

ELLIE: I've been meeting three generations of farmers who've made their home

0:43:570:44:02

in Dorset's Isle of Purbeck,

0:44:020:44:04

grandfather Guy, who hails from New Zealand, and his three sons and

0:44:040:44:08

grandchildren.

0:44:080:44:09

A few years ago, the family began taking photos of daily life on

0:44:120:44:16

the farm and posting them online, simply to share with friends.

0:44:160:44:20

But so captivating were the images that soon,

0:44:200:44:23

the account attracted more than 160,000 followers.

0:44:230:44:26

With such a huge interest being taken in the family farm

0:44:300:44:34

online, photography has become the ideal tool to spin success for

0:44:340:44:39

the family's latest business venture - selling wool direct to customers.

0:44:390:44:43

Even those on the other side of the world.

0:44:430:44:46

In charge of the wool business is photographer-in-chief Sue Hole.

0:44:480:44:52

It's amazing watching this process, isn't it?

0:44:560:44:58

Getting them scanned. This fleece looks incredible.

0:44:580:45:01

-Talk to me about that.

-The fleeces that we use for the knitting wool

0:45:010:45:05

are the Dorsets and the Dorset crosses.

0:45:050:45:08

They've got a down's type of fleece, which is very dense and springy.

0:45:080:45:11

And it's got a definite crimp to it, which is like a natural wave.

0:45:130:45:16

-OK.

-It takes dye really well and it makes a very good-quality knitting

0:45:160:45:20

-wool.

-So when will these come off, then?

0:45:200:45:22

How long until they'll have their fleeces shorn off?

0:45:220:45:25

These ones actually get sheared in a month's time.

0:45:250:45:27

OK, so not long. Little bit more growing time.

0:45:270:45:29

-Yeah.

-Oh, fantastic.

0:45:290:45:30

To process and dye the fleeces on a commercial scale,

0:45:350:45:38

they're sent off to a specialist woollen mill in Cornwall.

0:45:380:45:40

Here, the fleece is processed by scouring,

0:45:420:45:44

removing dirt and natural oils through washing,

0:45:440:45:46

before being carded - a form of brushing

0:45:460:45:49

that turns the fleece fibres into manageable strands

0:45:490:45:51

for spinning.

0:45:510:45:53

The finished yarn is proving popular with knitwear designers

0:45:540:45:57

like Sarah Hazell.

0:45:570:45:59

-Hi, Sarah.

-Hi!

-I'm Ellie, nice to meet you.

0:46:010:46:03

-Nice to meet you, Ellie.

-So you're knitting away feverishly

0:46:030:46:06

with this beautiful wool!

0:46:060:46:08

Goodness, so it goes from this and then we've got the finished product.

0:46:080:46:11

-Yes, that's right.

-What lovely colours!

0:46:110:46:14

Thank you. So, getting the colours right has been a real challenge.

0:46:140:46:18

What we found was that the Dorset wool is so white

0:46:180:46:21

that when you dye on top of it,

0:46:210:46:23

it takes the colour almost too well and it makes it quite flat.

0:46:230:46:27

So the mill did some experimenting and they actually added a percentage

0:46:270:46:32

of black first and then the main colour on top.

0:46:320:46:35

So, if you look carefully, you can see...

0:46:350:46:37

-Oh, yes, two tones.

-Yes, it's got a fleck in it.

0:46:370:46:39

-I see.

-It gives it more depth.

0:46:390:46:41

And how did you choose the kind of tones of colours that you've got here?

0:46:410:46:44

We wanted to reflect the colours of the countryside in our area,

0:46:440:46:47

so it's another connection for customers to make with the sheep,

0:46:470:46:50

but also with the colours, and we're

0:46:500:46:52

very lucky there are so many beautiful

0:46:520:46:54

colours near where we are with the sea, as well.

0:46:540:46:56

And you use this wool quite a lot, then?

0:46:560:46:57

-Yes.

-Why do you choose it, what's good about it for you?

0:46:570:47:00

I chose the yarn because...

0:47:000:47:03

obviously the colours are beautiful,

0:47:030:47:04

but also the quality of the yarn and the fact that the yarn is traceable

0:47:040:47:09

back to a farm.

0:47:090:47:11

It's becoming really important for knitters to know that the yarn

0:47:110:47:16

has been produced ethically nowadays.

0:47:160:47:19

What's the map over there?

0:47:190:47:20

-Oh, right...

-Pins, is this your travelling?

0:47:200:47:23

I'd like to think so!

0:47:230:47:25

No, actually, what it is...

0:47:250:47:27

We put pins in the map wherever we've got customers, so you can see,

0:47:270:47:32

we cover this country, we've got also in Europe, but...

0:47:320:47:35

we go right across America...

0:47:350:47:36

Yeah! Into Canada.

0:47:360:47:38

There's a couple here in Australia.

0:47:380:47:40

Yes. We communicate with our customers through social media mainly and we

0:47:400:47:45

found that's been the best way to find our market.

0:47:450:47:48

That's where the photos have come in?

0:47:480:47:50

Exactly. They follow us on Instagram and other types of social media and

0:47:500:47:54

they're following the story, really.

0:47:540:47:56

I don't think there's any other way we would have found customers

0:47:560:47:59

thousands of miles away than that.

0:47:590:48:01

While I've been admiring the family's latest enterprise,

0:48:030:48:06

over in the lambing shed, the youngest member of this farming

0:48:060:48:09

dynasty, Liz, is helping the latest arrivals settle in just as her grandfather

0:48:090:48:14

did more than 50 years ago.

0:48:140:48:15

These two are REALLY new.

0:48:170:48:19

Yeah, they were born this morning.

0:48:190:48:20

So what's the plan for them now?

0:48:200:48:22

In a minute, we'll move them from this pen into an individual pen and

0:48:220:48:26

then we can get some milk off of her and feed the lambs.

0:48:260:48:29

Good girl!

0:48:360:48:38

Good girl.

0:48:400:48:41

So you've only just graduated from agricultural college.

0:48:430:48:46

Hitting the ground running, this, isn't it?

0:48:460:48:48

Yeah, well, I'm used to it. I enjoy it, so it's OK, I don't mind.

0:48:480:48:51

Have you been doing this kind of farmwork since young, then?

0:48:510:48:53

Yes, since probably about four years old, I've been helping,

0:48:530:48:57

coming over in the evening and lambing. Absolutely love it.

0:48:570:49:00

So this is your territory, right here.

0:49:000:49:01

-Definitely.

-What's the next big challenge for you, then?

0:49:010:49:04

So, through the National Federation of Young Farmers,

0:49:040:49:07

I applied for a scholarship, which is the C Alma Baker Trust.

0:49:070:49:12

You can apply for a scholarship where you work in New Zealand for

0:49:120:49:15

three months and then you have another month out there travelling.

0:49:150:49:19

So, yeah, I get to work on a dairy, beef and sheep farm, which...

0:49:190:49:23

I can't wait. ..in the North Island. I'm really excited.

0:49:230:49:26

There's something really lovely about going back full circle like

0:49:260:49:29

your grandfather, who started out in New Zealand.

0:49:290:49:31

Yeah, no, he's really happy that I'm going over and I'll only be an hour or two

0:49:310:49:35

away from my uncle that's out there now, so really close to family,

0:49:350:49:37

-which will be really good fun.

-There's also parallels about history

0:49:370:49:40

repeating itself in reverse, there.

0:49:400:49:42

-That's amazing.

-Yeah.

0:49:420:49:43

She's actually being incredibly modest,

0:49:480:49:50

because in order to get that bursary to the land of the long white cloud,

0:49:500:49:53

Lizzie had to beat 120 other people.

0:49:530:49:57

She's clearly going places in farming, that one.

0:49:570:49:59

With such an impressive and enterprising generation ready to

0:50:020:50:05

take the reins, I think it's safe to say that

0:50:050:50:08

Guy's legacy is in very capable hands.

0:50:080:50:11

Well, are we going to continue to need hats and scarves?

0:50:130:50:16

Here's the Countryfile forecast to tell us what the weather is going to

0:50:160:50:19

be doing this week.

0:50:190:50:21

MATT: Along more than 90 miles of shoreline,

0:51:110:51:14

the craggy Jurassic Coast reveals the mysteries of our past.

0:51:140:51:17

We've been exploring its ancient landscape,

0:51:210:51:24

where flying reptiles and land-dwelling giants lived.

0:51:240:51:28

Today, the landscape is rich with their fossilised remains.

0:51:280:51:32

But there's one particular creature that's leaving its mark in a more

0:51:360:51:40

unusual way. Geologist Paddy Howe is going to tell me more.

0:51:400:51:44

Right then, Paddy, what have we got here?

0:51:460:51:48

Right, this is part of a creature called a Phragmoteuthid.

0:51:480:51:50

So, not a squid, not a cuttlefish, but sharing characteristics of both.

0:51:510:51:56

They don't have a high preservation potential.

0:51:560:51:59

Things with harder parts to their bodies tend to preserve better than

0:51:590:52:03

-these.

-Are we talking 200 million years old?

0:52:030:52:06

-Give or take a week, yes.

-Yeah!

0:52:060:52:08

As a squid-like creature,

0:52:110:52:13

the Phragmoteuthid would have defended itself from predators in the same way,

0:52:130:52:17

by shooting out ink.

0:52:170:52:18

Remarkably, 200 million years later, the ink can still be found.

0:52:190:52:25

But it's extremely rare.

0:52:250:52:26

This is fossilised ink

0:52:270:52:29

from a Phragmoteuthid. That's the ink sac itself.

0:52:290:52:32

The mind boggles how that hasn't kind of turned into stone or rock

0:52:320:52:37

and that it's kind of in the form that it would have been in so, so long ago.

0:52:370:52:40

You've got muscle fibres running across it there.

0:52:400:52:43

It contains a lot of the original constituents.

0:52:430:52:45

It contains melanin, very often.

0:52:450:52:47

You know, these have been analysed by various people and we do get

0:52:470:52:51

the original pigments still inside.

0:52:510:52:53

And what's special about this one?

0:52:530:52:54

In this rock I can see the ink sac has become detached from the rest of

0:52:540:52:58

the creature in some way,

0:52:580:52:59

shape or form, and when you get a piece like this,

0:52:590:53:03

what we can do is actually powder this stuff up and do something a bit

0:53:030:53:06

special with that.

0:53:060:53:07

This 200-million-year-old ink isn't being used for self-defence, though.

0:53:100:53:14

It's on the tip of the paintbrush of Paddy's wife Ricky.

0:53:140:53:19

Are you all right? Nice to see you.

0:53:190:53:21

-Good to see you.

-We come bearing gifts.

0:53:210:53:23

-Fantastic.

-Ricky is an artist who uses the fossilised ink to create

0:53:230:53:27

beautiful images of the creatures that lived here millions of years ago.

0:53:270:53:31

Only a handful of her paintings

0:53:350:53:38

exist, due to the scarcity of the ink,

0:53:380:53:40

one of which belongs to Sir David Attenborough.

0:53:400:53:42

How are you actually making paint from this, then?

0:53:440:53:46

What are you actually mixing it with?

0:53:460:53:48

Well, Paddy will take me a little bit out with a scalpel.

0:53:480:53:51

A tiny bit of water in there.

0:53:510:53:54

It's nice here, because we've got puddles with a bit of salt,

0:53:540:53:57

-a bit of sand...

-Oh, so you're using seawater?

0:53:570:53:59

Use a bit of seawater and, again, it adds to it.

0:53:590:54:01

And what could be more fitting in this Jurassic coastal landscape than

0:54:020:54:06

to recreate a Phragmoteuthid with its very own, very rare ink?

0:54:060:54:11

This is my interpretation.

0:54:110:54:14

Oh, isn't that something?

0:54:140:54:15

-That is lovely.

-Thank you.

0:54:150:54:17

Very, very nice.

0:54:170:54:18

There we are.

0:54:200:54:21

-Is this all right for you?

-That's good, it's good.

0:54:220:54:24

You don't know how it's been formed,

0:54:240:54:26

so you don't know how it's going to react to being ground up and how

0:54:260:54:30

the colour's going to come out.

0:54:300:54:32

Here I am using a bit of artistic licence

0:54:320:54:33

but what do you know about what it would have looked like?

0:54:330:54:36

If you see on the picture, there are ten tentacles.

0:54:360:54:39

-Yeah.

-And although the tentacles themselves aren't preserved,

0:54:390:54:42

the tentacles had pairs of hooks all the way along and they'd use those

0:54:420:54:46

hooks to catch their prey.

0:54:460:54:47

Using this material really does give us a wonderful connection to a

0:54:480:54:52

long-lost, ancient creature.

0:54:520:54:53

Well, do you know what, Ricky?

0:54:550:54:56

I have thoroughly enjoyed this, thank you so much for

0:54:560:54:59

-the opportunity.

-That's beautiful!

0:54:590:55:00

-Hi, Ellie!

-That's amazing!

0:55:000:55:02

-Is that colour by numbers?

-Well, I tell you what this is.

0:55:020:55:05

This is a Phragmoteuthid.

0:55:050:55:08

Is it, now?

0:55:080:55:09

It's a bit soggy at the moment, because obviously it's raining here,

0:55:090:55:12

but Ricky has said I can take the Phragmoteuthid ink home,

0:55:120:55:15

because that's what it's painted with.

0:55:150:55:17

-Wow!

-200 million years old, this ink.

0:55:170:55:19

You can't put a price tag on that, that is an amazing gift.

0:55:190:55:22

Wonderful. Well, listen, that's all we've got time for this week,

0:55:220:55:25

from the Jurassic Coast.

0:55:250:55:26

Next week, we're going to be up in the Peak District.

0:55:260:55:28

We'll see you then. Bye-bye!

0:55:280:55:30

I'll bring my picture next week so you can see it all finished.

0:55:300:55:32

You should sign that, it's amazing.

0:55:320:55:34

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