Browse content similar to Suffolk. Check below for episodes and series from the same categories and more!
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With golden beaches, rolling shingle, | :00:27. | :00:29. | |
and one of the most stunning wetland areas in the country, | :00:30. | :00:32. | |
has been inspiring artists for generations. | :00:33. | :00:38. | |
that the legendary composer Benjamin Britten | :00:39. | :00:43. | |
I'm going to be following in his footsteps, | :00:44. | :00:48. | |
finding out about the county he adored | :00:49. | :00:50. | |
the perfect combination for growing crops. | :00:51. | :00:59. | |
It's where man would often have been seen working alongside beast | :01:00. | :01:03. | |
Now, these magnificent Suffolk Punch horses | :01:04. | :01:08. | |
able to pull twice their own body weight, | :01:09. | :01:12. | |
but tractors took away their livelihoods | :01:13. | :01:15. | |
and now there are fewer than 500 of this breed left in the entire world. | :01:16. | :01:20. | |
those desperate to keep the Suffolk Punch horse working. | :01:21. | :01:26. | |
looking at claims that life as a hill farmer | :01:27. | :01:30. | |
Making a living from livestock in the uplands | :01:31. | :01:36. | |
But could changes to the way farmers are funded | :01:37. | :01:41. | |
But you CAN still find optimism for the future of the industry. | :01:42. | :01:50. | |
I'm here in Snowdonia, meeting up with a very lucky young lady | :01:51. | :01:53. | |
to run this beautiful and iconic Welsh hill farm. | :01:54. | :01:59. | |
And I'll be finding out what her plans are for the year ahead. | :02:00. | :02:12. | |
The East Anglian county of Suffolk is a lyrical landscape | :02:13. | :02:16. | |
rich in natural and cultural heritage. | :02:17. | :02:22. | |
I'm heading to the coastal town of Aldeburgh, | :02:23. | :02:24. | |
where one of our best-loved musicians made his home. | :02:25. | :02:30. | |
Suffolk has been inspiring creative minds for generations. | :02:31. | :02:33. | |
One of the most famous is composer Benjamin Britten. | :02:34. | :02:39. | |
This Friday marks the centenary of Britten's birth. | :02:40. | :02:43. | |
His passion for music was apparent from a young age, | :02:44. | :02:46. | |
he was always drawn back home to the county he loved. | :02:47. | :02:53. | |
he found international fame in 1945 with his opera Peter Grimes. | :02:54. | :02:59. | |
In later years, he created the Aldeburgh Music Festival | :03:00. | :03:02. | |
to educate and support young artists. | :03:03. | :03:06. | |
His career was followed closely by the media, | :03:07. | :03:09. | |
leaving us with a detailed archive of his life. | :03:10. | :03:13. | |
Benjamin Britten would walk out here for hours, | :03:14. | :03:15. | |
taking inspiration from the landscape. | :03:16. | :03:18. | |
is associated with the Suffolk coastline, | :03:19. | :03:21. | |
I'm on a walk Britten loved - Sailor's Path. | :03:22. | :03:32. | |
It's a six-mile route which follows the River Alde | :03:33. | :03:35. | |
from Snape to the coastal town of Aldeburgh, | :03:36. | :03:37. | |
where he lived with his personal and professional partner Peter Pears. | :03:38. | :03:42. | |
a man who knows all there is to know about Britten, | :03:43. | :03:46. | |
to discover more about one of his lesser-known operas. | :03:47. | :03:50. | |
the sort of slightly mystic-looking church - | :03:51. | :03:56. | |
would have been something he really gained a lot from. | :03:57. | :03:59. | |
This was his inspiration. Indeed, yeah. | :04:00. | :04:02. | |
which is very much based in East Anglian mysticism, | :04:03. | :04:06. | |
this is where he would have come to get the ideas. | :04:07. | :04:09. | |
Not one of his most famous works, by any stretch, | :04:10. | :04:12. | |
which Britten saw in the '50s on a trip to the Far East | :04:13. | :04:20. | |
and then, in a very typical way for him, he would have come back here - | :04:21. | :04:24. | |
"How can I use that in my own setting, with the place that I love?" | :04:25. | :04:29. | |
Incredible. How do you move from Japan to Anglia? Indeed. | :04:30. | :04:33. | |
Not the most logical progression, but it works very well, | :04:34. | :04:36. | |
and as a consequence it's very, very atmospheric. | :04:37. | :04:39. | |
So, I've got some of it here, so if you give it a listen... | :04:40. | :04:42. | |
FLUTE PLAYS # Curlews of the Fenland... # | :04:43. | :05:03. | |
You can hear the curlews actually, can't you, in the music? | :05:04. | :05:06. | |
Indeed, and there's a big population of curlews round here | :05:07. | :05:09. | |
and that's something that Britten would have seen, | :05:10. | :05:11. | |
and I think that's a really nice hook for him, | :05:12. | :05:13. | |
is such a nice sort of link to this location. | :05:14. | :05:22. | |
And did he wander around with a paper and pen making notes? | :05:23. | :05:25. | |
Not at all, that was the phenomenal thing. | :05:26. | :05:27. | |
He was able to hold ideas in his head, to sort of file them away, | :05:28. | :05:30. | |
and literally just soaked up everything, | :05:31. | :05:34. | |
then would have walked back, gone home, sat in his studio, | :05:35. | :05:38. | |
and this would have poured out of him. | :05:39. | :05:46. | |
At the end of the Sailor's Path walk is The Red House, | :05:47. | :05:48. | |
where Britten composed some of his most famous works. | :05:49. | :05:52. | |
His studio today feels as though he's just left the room. | :05:53. | :05:57. | |
It is quite sort of spartan in many respects - | :05:58. | :06:00. | |
Britten was someone who liked cold baths, | :06:01. | :06:02. | |
he liked that kind of puritanical thing. | :06:03. | :06:05. | |
But such beautiful artefacts in the room and everywhere. | :06:06. | :06:08. | |
In some ways both Britten and Pears were hoarders. | :06:09. | :06:12. | |
from the first jottings of his trip to Japan, | :06:13. | :06:17. | |
right up to the manuscripts and sort of costume designs | :06:18. | :06:19. | |
and things like that, it tells the story right way through. | :06:20. | :06:22. | |
And this is one of the original manuscripts. | :06:23. | :06:24. | |
and this would have been his first attempt at writing it down. | :06:25. | :06:29. | |
What's remarkable is the clarity on the page, | :06:30. | :06:32. | |
it's not sort of a torn-together, very, very roughshod, | :06:33. | :06:35. | |
which indicates, really, the clarity in his own brain. | :06:36. | :06:40. | |
This is an instrument that Britten brought back from Japan in 1956. | :06:41. | :06:47. | |
which is used to accompany the Noh theatre that Britten saw. | :06:48. | :06:53. | |
And when he brought that idea back here | :06:54. | :06:55. | |
and rooted it in his East Anglian community, | :06:56. | :06:59. | |
he mimicked the sound of this very strange oriental instrument, | :07:00. | :07:03. | |
which plays sort of clustery chords. Blow in here? | :07:04. | :07:06. | |
Yes, blow in the mouthpiece with your fingers on the little holes. | :07:07. | :07:10. | |
OK. Let's see if we can do a rendition of Curlew River. | :07:11. | :07:14. | |
It's not. There's a certain element of passing out involved, | :07:15. | :07:23. | |
there's a lot of puff required. But it's a very strange sound, | :07:24. | :07:26. | |
and I think you have to be a very skilled master to play it. | :07:27. | :07:34. | |
Curlew River was one of the three Church Operas Britten wrote. | :07:35. | :07:37. | |
It was well received, and premiered 12 years before his death. | :07:38. | :07:42. | |
By that time, he was considered to be the country's leading composer, | :07:43. | :07:46. | |
He was offered a grand funeral at Westminster Abbey, | :07:47. | :07:54. | |
but that wasn't Benjamin Britten's style. | :07:55. | :07:56. | |
He wanted to be buried here, in his beloved home county. | :07:57. | :08:03. | |
I've come here to meet one of his close friends, Stuart Bedford. | :08:04. | :08:07. | |
What's your first memory of Benjamin Britten? | :08:08. | :08:10. | |
I'm not sure that I can place it is exactly, | :08:11. | :08:12. | |
but it would have to be either 1947 or '48. | :08:13. | :08:17. | |
We got up to all sorts of wonderful games. | :08:18. | :08:21. | |
He had an enormous sense of fun, it was the thing he adored most. | :08:22. | :08:27. | |
and he would pick up a fork and twang it | :08:28. | :08:30. | |
He took his music very, very seriously though. | :08:31. | :08:36. | |
There was a lot of tension around when he was working. | :08:37. | :08:38. | |
What does this piece of music evoke in you? | :08:39. | :08:50. | |
I was intimately involved with the Church Operas. | :08:51. | :08:56. | |
What was it like, then, making this transition | :08:57. | :09:04. | |
larking around with him in the garden, | :09:05. | :09:08. | |
to actually working with him professionally one stage? | :09:09. | :09:11. | |
It was like two different worlds. It really was. | :09:12. | :09:14. | |
Because that side of him was very much covered up. | :09:15. | :09:19. | |
It was still there, you could get it out of him | :09:20. | :09:22. | |
if he was playing a game or something. | :09:23. | :09:24. | |
The music was his profession, and really serious. | :09:25. | :09:27. | |
But I worked with him for at least ten years, | :09:28. | :09:29. | |
A stained-glass window was commissioned | :09:30. | :09:43. | |
as a memorial to Britten in Aldeburgh Church. | :09:44. | :09:46. | |
It features the three Church Operas with Curlew River at its centre. | :09:47. | :09:50. | |
But his lasting legacy will always be his music. | :09:51. | :09:55. | |
Any time he touched the keyboard there was magic there. | :09:56. | :09:58. | |
to get exactly the right colour out of the piano. | :09:59. | :10:07. | |
Nobody else had ever done anything like that. | :10:08. | :10:10. | |
Did you know him as Benjamin, Mr Britten...? Ben. Always. | :10:11. | :10:15. | |
I said, "What do we call you now you're a Lord?" | :10:16. | :10:19. | |
Farming the uplands is one of the toughest jobs in agriculture. | :10:20. | :10:39. | |
things could be taking a turn for the worse. | :10:40. | :10:49. | |
Britain's uplands, bleak yet beautiful. | :10:50. | :10:53. | |
The farmers who work this land have one of the country's hardest jobs. | :10:54. | :11:00. | |
It's tough to make a living from farming up here | :11:01. | :11:03. | |
with the rugged terrain, the fierce weather, | :11:04. | :11:07. | |
and the huge areas of rough land - in fact many people say | :11:08. | :11:10. | |
without European subsidies it'd be virtually impossible. | :11:11. | :11:16. | |
Nigel Miller and his two sons farm 550 hectares - | :11:17. | :11:21. | |
Well, this is this year's land crop, that we'll be taking over the winter. | :11:22. | :11:35. | |
These are all ewe lambs, and they're getting their fluke dose, | :11:36. | :11:38. | |
to just get rid of liver fluke before the winter comes. | :11:39. | :11:43. | |
He's run this farm for over 30 years, | :11:44. | :11:46. | |
working the exposed hills in all seasons and all weather. | :11:47. | :11:50. | |
But on its own, this hard graft doesn't pay the bills, | :11:51. | :11:54. | |
and he's in no doubt where he'd be without a helping hand from Europe. | :11:55. | :12:00. | |
It looks like a tough job physically as well as economically. | :12:01. | :12:03. | |
out of the hill-farming side of this business? | :12:04. | :12:07. | |
We've got a strange business, it's about half hill land, | :12:08. | :12:10. | |
I would guess about ?10,000 a year is generated off the hill land. | :12:11. | :12:15. | |
Roughly how much of that is made from the subsidy, the farm payments? | :12:16. | :12:19. | |
we probably wouldn't be making any profit at all. | :12:20. | :12:23. | |
That's the difference it makes, it's absolutely key? It is critical. | :12:24. | :12:27. | |
Shall we get the last batch through and get these ones out? | :12:28. | :12:30. | |
'The latest farm income figures show that without support | :12:31. | :12:34. | |
'most hill farms across the UK would make a loss | :12:35. | :12:37. | |
'They're only kept afloat by cash coming from subsidies | :12:38. | :12:43. | |
'through the Common Agricultural Policy. | :12:44. | :12:46. | |
But now both the amount of cash and the way it's shared around | :12:47. | :12:54. | |
and that's likely to have a big impact in Scotland. | :12:55. | :13:03. | |
'This summer, the governments of the European Union got together | :13:04. | :13:06. | |
'to negotiate a brand-new Common Agricultural Policy.' | :13:07. | :13:10. | |
So does subsidy help you with a bit of this as well? It does, yeah... | :13:11. | :13:14. | |
'but also to money available for environmental schemes, | :13:15. | :13:22. | |
'like the one that paid for this woodland planting.' | :13:23. | :13:25. | |
This is the time of year just to check out | :13:26. | :13:27. | |
whether they've done well over the summer, | :13:28. | :13:29. | |
and if they haven't, we'll just pull the tube out | :13:30. | :13:32. | |
and we know these are blanks we've got to fill in the spring. | :13:33. | :13:34. | |
'As he's also President of Scotland's farming union, | :13:35. | :13:42. | |
'Nigel's being paying close attention to how changes to the CAP | :13:43. | :13:46. | |
'are likely to affect him and his fellow Scottish farmers.' | :13:47. | :13:50. | |
So how are the way they calculate these payments | :13:51. | :13:54. | |
Well, historically, support in Europe was very much based on production, | :13:55. | :14:00. | |
so a farm like this, the number of cows, sheep that you kept, | :14:01. | :14:04. | |
the amount of barley you grew, that fixed your payment. Right. | :14:05. | :14:07. | |
and we're going to go to an area payment system, | :14:08. | :14:11. | |
so that every hectare of land gets a standard payment. | :14:12. | :14:18. | |
There are worries that this could mean many Scottish hill farmers | :14:19. | :14:22. | |
Especially when you add into the mix the 13% reduction | :14:23. | :14:27. | |
in overall farming subsidies across the EU. | :14:28. | :14:32. | |
I think the area payment system is quite a blunt tool, | :14:33. | :14:35. | |
and in Scotland almost certainly there'll be a tiered system - | :14:36. | :14:41. | |
the lower ground will get quite high payments | :14:42. | :14:43. | |
and the hill land will get relatively low payments. | :14:44. | :14:45. | |
Now, for hill farmers that's a bit tough, | :14:46. | :14:48. | |
within the hill area the money gets averaged out | :14:49. | :14:52. | |
over all the farms, so that those that are the most active, | :14:53. | :14:55. | |
the most productive, will tend to be big losers. | :14:56. | :14:57. | |
How much of a hit is this going to be for you, do you think? | :14:58. | :15:00. | |
Well, our area payment just now, or single farm payment, | :15:01. | :15:04. | |
is moderate, it's about 180 euros a hectare, | :15:05. | :15:07. | |
and that reflects the cattle we had in the past. | :15:08. | :15:11. | |
Going into the new system, the area payment on our hill land | :15:12. | :15:14. | |
could be 40, 30, 50 euros - we're not sure yet. | :15:15. | :15:17. | |
but England's already been operating this area-based system since 2005. | :15:18. | :15:30. | |
So it seems only fair to bring Scotland | :15:31. | :15:32. | |
and the UK's other home nations into line | :15:33. | :15:36. | |
In the tangled web of European deal-making, though, | :15:37. | :15:43. | |
Time for a masterclass on current subsidy payments. | :15:44. | :15:51. | |
The total Common Agricultural Policy subsidy is decided in Brussels, | :15:52. | :15:56. | |
and it's there too that they decide how much each member state will get. | :15:57. | :16:00. | |
and they reckon that the UK deserves 229 euros per hectare on average. | :16:01. | :16:08. | |
Then, the Government in the UK, in Westminster, decide - | :16:09. | :16:12. | |
with some consultation with the individual nations - | :16:13. | :16:15. | |
Northern Ireland get the most, with 339. | :16:16. | :16:26. | |
Whereas Scotland appear to be the losers, | :16:27. | :16:31. | |
So, Northern Ireland end up with almost three times | :16:32. | :16:39. | |
the per-hectare payments of Scotland, | :16:40. | :16:41. | |
which appears to lag way behind everyone else. | :16:42. | :16:44. | |
at the Scottish Parliament they feel somewhat short-changed. | :16:45. | :16:50. | |
Scotland gets by far the lowest level per-hectare payment | :16:51. | :16:54. | |
and indeed the whole of Europe, it looks like, under the new formula. | :16:55. | :16:59. | |
That's based on historic reasons from many years ago, | :17:00. | :17:01. | |
and for all kinds of political reasons and negotiated reasons. | :17:02. | :17:04. | |
That's a bit of a scandal, it's caused huge anger in this country. | :17:05. | :17:07. | |
Europe allocates the money to the UK on the basis of the total area, | :17:08. | :17:11. | |
but then it's unequally distributed within the UK. What do you think? | :17:12. | :17:15. | |
Well, one of the reasons why Europe adopted this new formula | :17:16. | :17:19. | |
is because they want the payments right across Europe | :17:20. | :17:21. | |
to be on more of a level playing field, | :17:22. | :17:23. | |
and that should happen within the UK as well. | :17:24. | :17:25. | |
But the UK still qualifies for a bit of an uplift | :17:26. | :17:27. | |
so that's about worth about 220 million euros between 2014 and 2020. | :17:28. | :17:33. | |
So clearly, in Scotland we feel 100% of that uplift the UK is getting | :17:34. | :17:37. | |
because of Scotland's low level of payments | :17:38. | :17:39. | |
But these issues are being decided many miles from Edinburgh. | :17:40. | :17:54. | |
And claims that their northern neighbours get a rough deal | :17:55. | :17:57. | |
are met with some scepticism here at the heart of Westminster. | :17:58. | :18:03. | |
Scotland has tended to have a lower allocation per hectare | :18:04. | :18:07. | |
simply because historically its land was less productive, | :18:08. | :18:10. | |
and it's important to note that per farm in Scotland, | :18:11. | :18:13. | |
because the farm units tend to be larger, | :18:14. | :18:16. | |
per farm they tend to get greater payments than other parts of the UK. | :18:17. | :18:20. | |
For the first time, Scotland's doing its own consultation, | :18:21. | :18:23. | |
it's got much more freedom in how it implements the CAP. | :18:24. | :18:25. | |
They will be able to focus more money on the uplands, | :18:26. | :18:28. | |
It's certainly true that some of Scotland's larger landowners | :18:29. | :18:35. | |
and that the UK's individual nations have some leeway | :18:36. | :18:40. | |
to prioritise how their pots of money are spent. | :18:41. | :18:44. | |
But Scotland also insists the UK has just received | :18:45. | :18:48. | |
because generally its farmers get such low levels of cash. | :18:49. | :18:54. | |
Does Defra feel all that money should be heading up north? | :18:55. | :18:59. | |
I don't really accept the arguments being put forward - | :19:00. | :19:01. | |
as I said the reality is that Scottish farms still get per unit | :19:02. | :19:06. | |
more money than a lot of other parts of the UK. | :19:07. | :19:08. | |
Historically they've tended to have lower payments per hectare | :19:09. | :19:12. | |
simply because the land is less productive, | :19:13. | :19:14. | |
and we will listen to the representations | :19:15. | :19:16. | |
but we've got to be fair to all of the constituent parts of the UK. | :19:17. | :19:22. | |
In fact, even since we spoke to the Farming Minister, | :19:23. | :19:25. | |
Defra has decided against passing on this uplift in full. | :19:26. | :19:30. | |
Although it has promised to review the way the UK's individual | :19:31. | :19:33. | |
nation payments are calculated - in 2017. | :19:34. | :19:36. | |
At the sharp end of this political wrangling are farmers like Nigel. | :19:37. | :19:41. | |
that Scotland's lost an awful lot of sheep. | :19:42. | :19:45. | |
We've lost over 1 million sheep since 2000, | :19:46. | :19:48. | |
so things are in a very fragile state. | :19:49. | :19:51. | |
This additional cut is quite frightening. | :19:52. | :19:53. | |
But I think also, at a personal level, at a community level, | :19:54. | :19:56. | |
seeing communities running down is a pretty sad thing, | :19:57. | :20:00. | |
because the farming community is quite a close community | :20:01. | :20:03. | |
it's going to be a difficult few years. | :20:04. | :20:07. | |
probably there's never been a better time to farm. | :20:08. | :20:10. | |
So, despite the cloud of uncertainty on how this deal will play out, | :20:11. | :20:17. | |
Nigel's trying to see the silver lining. | :20:18. | :20:20. | |
Farming these hills has always demanded resilience, | :20:21. | :20:23. | |
and in the short term at least, that quality will continue to count. | :20:24. | :20:35. | |
Today we're exploring Suffolk, a landscape that stirs the imagination. | :20:36. | :20:41. | |
South-west of its wild, expansive coast lie the Claylands, | :20:42. | :20:45. | |
of one of England's finest landscape painters. | :20:46. | :21:01. | |
John Constable famously immortalised the rural character of south Suffolk | :21:02. | :21:05. | |
almost two centuries ago in his paintings. | :21:06. | :21:10. | |
But this beautiful borderland around the River Stour | :21:11. | :21:13. | |
isn't just synonymous with the works of Constable. | :21:14. | :21:18. | |
Another Suffolk great earned its status here | :21:19. | :21:21. | |
and it did so through sheer hard work. | :21:22. | :21:24. | |
A thoroughbred, revered for strength, not speed, | :21:25. | :21:31. | |
this gentle giant made light work of the county's rich yet heavy land. | :21:32. | :21:38. | |
it helped turn Suffolk into the breadbasket of England | :21:39. | :21:43. | |
and worked its way into the hearts of its people. | :21:44. | :21:47. | |
Roger Clark has farmed with the Suffolk Punch, | :21:48. | :21:50. | |
the oldest and rarest of all heavy horses, for 50 years, | :21:51. | :21:53. | |
Roger, how are you doing? Morning, Matt. Welcome to Wylands. | :21:54. | :22:08. | |
Ha-ha, thank you very much. Introduce me to them before we go. | :22:09. | :22:11. | |
Yep, this is Bugle. Bugle! Hello, my man. And that's Jester. | :22:12. | :22:15. | |
So what makes a Suffolk Punch a Suffolk Punch? | :22:16. | :22:18. | |
Face like an angel, middle like a beer barrel | :22:19. | :22:21. | |
and a backside on it like a farmer's daughter. | :22:22. | :22:24. | |
I mean, that amalgamation of power, it's standing here, I mean, | :22:25. | :22:32. | |
They get their height through their depth of heart. Yep. | :22:33. | :22:39. | |
Strong forearms, short cannon. That means they can walk, | :22:40. | :22:42. | |
and when you walk behind these, you'll realise they can walk. | :22:43. | :22:45. | |
But don't forget, with a cart horse, Matt, | :22:46. | :22:47. | |
he's not only got to pull a load, he's got to back a load as well, | :22:48. | :22:50. | |
so this is where the farmer's daughter comes in. | :22:51. | :22:53. | |
You want a good britch and a good second thigh. | :22:54. | :22:55. | |
Right. Cos that's where your strength is. | :22:56. | :22:57. | |
Yeah! And is it right, then, that they can all be traced back | :22:58. | :23:01. | |
to just one horse? Yeah, Crisp's horse of Ufford, 1760. | :23:02. | :23:05. | |
goes back in an unbroken male line to this horse. | :23:06. | :23:12. | |
Good lad. The Suffolk horse was THE agricultural horse. | :23:13. | :23:18. | |
They wouldn't go back to the stable for dinner. | :23:19. | :23:25. | |
They would be fed at five in the morning, | :23:26. | :23:27. | |
they would turn out to work at seven, half past, | :23:28. | :23:30. | |
when the chaps had something to eat during the morning | :23:31. | :23:34. | |
and then they'd finish at three o'clock in the afternoon. | :23:35. | :23:38. | |
For decades, the magnificent sight of a Suffolk Punch | :23:39. | :23:41. | |
to cultivate the land for crops day in, day out, | :23:42. | :23:46. | |
the flat fields of East Anglia were thought ideal | :23:47. | :23:55. | |
for piloting new machinery designed to increase output. | :23:56. | :23:59. | |
The petrol power of tractors would replace the muscle of the Suffolk | :24:00. | :24:03. | |
My mother made me a member of the Suffolk Horse Society in 1964 | :24:04. | :24:11. | |
and I was the only new member that year. You know, things were... | :24:12. | :24:15. | |
I mean, it was just on the verge of shutting down. | :24:16. | :24:19. | |
By the '60s, the Suffolk had become almost completely redundant. | :24:20. | :24:24. | |
In 1966, only nine foals were registered. | :24:25. | :24:30. | |
The fate of many of these proud work horses lay in the slaughterhouse. | :24:31. | :24:34. | |
To some farmers, the Suffolk Punch became worth more dead than alive. | :24:35. | :24:40. | |
You'd go to any sale and you might see 200 heavy horses there, | :24:41. | :24:44. | |
and good sorts too, and 95% of them would have gone for slaughter, | :24:45. | :24:49. | |
because there was no trade for them, you see. | :24:50. | :24:51. | |
But thanks to a small number of devotees like Roger, | :24:52. | :24:59. | |
the horse that gave so much to this county | :25:00. | :25:01. | |
has been brought back from the brink of extinction. | :25:02. | :25:06. | |
There are now nearly 500 Suffolk Punches in existence, | :25:07. | :25:09. | |
but that still makes them more critically endangered | :25:10. | :25:12. | |
than the giant panda and the Siberian tiger. | :25:13. | :25:17. | |
I'm very intrigued, Jeanie, that we're standing on what is... | :25:18. | :25:20. | |
It's like a horse version of a snowboard. It is like a sledge, yeah. | :25:21. | :25:24. | |
The plan is to go in and out the cones, find our balance, | :25:25. | :25:29. | |
Just as vital to guaranteeing the Suffolk Punch's future, | :25:30. | :25:36. | |
it's the need to keep the skills to work them alive. | :25:37. | :25:42. | |
20-year-old Jeanie Letch is one of a small number of people | :25:43. | :25:45. | |
Today she's refining her techniques with Suffolks Boxer and Sovereign. | :25:46. | :25:52. | |
I've been with horses all my life, but generally light horses. Right. | :25:53. | :25:56. | |
I wanted to learn something different. | :25:57. | :25:58. | |
And I guess the new generation coming through is so important. Yes, it is. | :25:59. | :26:02. | |
I mean, when the older generation goes, | :26:03. | :26:04. | |
Yeah. I think the history of the Suffolk | :26:05. | :26:10. | |
and how they work is good to carry on. | :26:11. | :26:13. | |
It's not good to see a horse breed die out. | :26:14. | :26:25. | |
With the responsibility of working these horses | :26:26. | :26:28. | |
being taken on by the next generation, with people like Jeanie, | :26:29. | :26:31. | |
it's obvious that these historic horses do have a future | :26:32. | :26:34. | |
'Later I'll be harnessing the pulling power of these noble beasts | :26:35. | :26:41. | |
'to help fight for the survival of another rare breed.' | :26:42. | :26:53. | |
some rather avant-garde newcomers to the region. | :26:54. | :27:00. | |
Suffolk's salty air is thick with inspiration. | :27:01. | :27:04. | |
It brought us Constable, Gainsborough and Britten, | :27:05. | :27:08. | |
all who captured its classic English charm, | :27:09. | :27:11. | |
but if Gainsborough were to paint this scene today, | :27:12. | :27:14. | |
he'd need to add a touch of South American flair. | :27:15. | :27:18. | |
On a trip to Peru, East Anglian couple Paul and Jude fell in love... | :27:19. | :27:32. | |
One thing led to another and now they've got a farm, | :27:33. | :27:38. | |
or should I say a ranch full of them. | :27:39. | :27:45. | |
A small slice of the high Andes in the flatlands of Suffolk. | :27:46. | :27:51. | |
of these curious, camel-like creatures in Britain, | :27:52. | :27:56. | |
small fry compared to our 32 million sheep, | :27:57. | :28:00. | |
and Paul and Jude's alpacas have been busy at it | :28:01. | :28:07. | |
'Paul wants to check if one of his females, Ursula, is pregnant. | :28:08. | :28:13. | |
'What happens next gives him the answer he needs.' | :28:14. | :28:18. | |
Is this Fergus, then, Paul? This is Fergus. | :28:19. | :28:20. | |
We're going to find out whether Ursula is pregnant. | :28:21. | :28:24. | |
'Watch Ursula, the one in the middle's reaction.' | :28:25. | :28:38. | |
That's enough for you to be sure she's pregnant? | :28:39. | :28:40. | |
Well, that's enough for us to be 98% sure. | :28:41. | :28:42. | |
So Fergus was keen - she definitely wasn't. | :28:43. | :28:47. | |
She would have just sat down, but she spat in his face. | :28:48. | :28:50. | |
She said, "I'm pregnant, get out of here." She spat in his face? Yep. | :28:51. | :28:53. | |
'usually happens on days 10, 20 and 30 | :28:54. | :28:59. | |
'of the female alpaca's 11-month gestation period.' | :29:00. | :29:06. | |
'It's a reliable indication, but Paul and Jude follow up | :29:07. | :29:10. | |
'with an ultrasound at two-to-three months to confirm the results.' | :29:11. | :29:14. | |
So is it quite a fleshy bit that I'm looking for? | :29:15. | :29:16. | |
You're going just here. Yes, I feel what you mean. | :29:17. | :29:20. | |
What am I..? Ah! And you're looking for that fluid-filled sac. | :29:21. | :29:27. | |
What's that, Paul? Is that any good? Oh, yeah! There you go! Yeah! | :29:28. | :29:30. | |
OK, so we'll save that. Here's the uterus. | :29:31. | :29:34. | |
What you can see here is a transverse section of the cria | :29:35. | :29:38. | |
Now, I can't tell you which bit of the cria it is, but it is there, | :29:39. | :29:44. | |
These females aren't first-time mums. | :29:45. | :29:52. | |
They already young alpacas, or cria, still at foot, | :29:53. | :29:56. | |
but because they're quite far into their pregnancy, | :29:57. | :29:58. | |
The cria need weighing and assessing. | :29:59. | :30:05. | |
Those above 25kg and strong enough can be separated from their mothers. | :30:06. | :30:09. | |
Thought it was going to be very solid. Right, here we go. | :30:10. | :30:12. | |
Well, thanks for being so good to me, little friend. | :30:13. | :30:20. | |
Off you go. 'This little one needs to put on a bit more weight.' | :30:21. | :30:24. | |
As that a good moment to do this? Ready now. | :30:25. | :30:26. | |
'But some of our chums are ready to be weaned. | :30:27. | :30:29. | |
'Paul and Jude have come up with a novel way | :30:30. | :30:31. | |
'to smooth the transition to independence for the young alpacas - | :30:32. | :30:35. | |
So, Jude, what's the story here? Why have we got little ones and a llama? | :30:36. | :30:42. | |
They've been with Spring, so they're used to the llama Spring, | :30:43. | :30:45. | |
she's going to basically behave as their nanny. | :30:46. | :30:51. | |
So they've got an adult figure there | :30:52. | :30:52. | |
so that they can feel a little bit more secure, | :30:53. | :30:55. | |
they'll follow her around in the field, | :30:56. | :30:56. | |
so the whole process of being away from their mums is less stressful. | :30:57. | :31:00. | |
And for the mothers, this is an important time for them too. | :31:01. | :31:03. | |
They're at a stage of their pregnancy now - | :31:04. | :31:07. | |
because they're already pregnant, to give birth next year - | :31:08. | :31:10. | |
where the demands of the foetus as it develops | :31:11. | :31:12. | |
so they now need to concentrate on putting their energies into that | :31:13. | :31:17. | |
rather than producing milk as well, which is an extra demand on them. | :31:18. | :31:21. | |
I love the idea of Mary Poppins llama. Yes! It's brilliant! | :31:22. | :31:25. | |
The Incas didn't keep alpacas for thousands of years just for fun. | :31:26. | :31:39. | |
Stronger and warmer than the finest wool, | :31:40. | :31:42. | |
the people of the high Andes valued alpaca fibre more than gold. | :31:43. | :31:48. | |
These days, the best-quality alpaca fleece | :31:49. | :31:51. | |
sells for 50-100 times more than sheep's wool. | :31:52. | :31:56. | |
Fleeces are graded from one to four, | :31:57. | :31:58. | |
according to the average width of individual hairs. | :31:59. | :32:02. | |
This would be a grade one, so if you have a feel of that, | :32:03. | :32:05. | |
That's about 17 1,000ths of a millimetre across. | :32:06. | :32:10. | |
Almost like a cobweb, yeah? Yeah! So this is a grade one. | :32:11. | :32:16. | |
That's a grade one. Now, this would be a grade four. | :32:17. | :32:18. | |
Oh, yeah, there's quite a clear difference, isn't there? | :32:19. | :32:21. | |
but by comparison you can see it's a thicker hair. | :32:22. | :32:25. | |
Yes, and this would be around 30 1,000ths of a millimetre across, | :32:26. | :32:28. | |
or 30 microns. And the interesting point there is once it's 30 microns, | :32:29. | :32:33. | |
you can actually feel it on your skin, | :32:34. | :32:35. | |
so it becomes what's known as the prickle factor. | :32:36. | :32:38. | |
will just feel like butter on your skin, | :32:39. | :32:42. | |
but anything over 30, you'll feel, "Ah, that's a bit itchy." | :32:43. | :32:44. | |
'This fleece is classed as a grade three, | :32:45. | :32:50. | |
'so we're sorting it into one pile for socks | :32:51. | :32:54. | |
There you go. Somebody's good night's sleep. | :32:55. | :33:01. | |
'But the Holy Grail when it comes to alpaca fleece is the grade one.' | :33:02. | :33:06. | |
We're starting to see much more demand now | :33:07. | :33:09. | |
particularly from the luxury fashion houses of Italy. | :33:10. | :33:14. | |
are gobbling up huge quantities of alpaca. | :33:15. | :33:19. | |
The demand for it really is going up exponentially, which is fabulous. | :33:20. | :33:22. | |
MUSIC: "In The Night" by The Pet Shop Boys | :33:23. | :33:26. | |
Suffolk alpaca is THE look for 2014. | :33:27. | :33:44. | |
owning or running a hill farm isn't without its challenges. | :33:45. | :33:49. | |
But for one young woman, it's a dream come true. | :33:50. | :33:54. | |
Before Adam heads to Snowdonia to meet her, | :33:55. | :33:56. | |
there are a few sheep on his own farm that need sorting out. | :33:57. | :34:01. | |
so they've been taken off their mothers | :34:02. | :34:21. | |
and they're used to following their mother's guidance | :34:22. | :34:23. | |
and the ewes would know the way into the pens, | :34:24. | :34:26. | |
but it's really difficult moving a bunch of lambs around. | :34:27. | :34:29. | |
who don't really know what they're up to. | :34:30. | :34:33. | |
It's quite hard work for us and the dogs. | :34:34. | :34:42. | |
At this time of year, the quality of the grass on this farm, | :34:43. | :34:45. | |
cos we're so high up, starts to fall off, | :34:46. | :34:48. | |
and the lambs won't be getting any benefit from it. | :34:49. | :34:51. | |
So what we're doing is going through them, sorting out any lambs | :34:52. | :34:54. | |
that are fit and heavy enough, ready to go for slaughter, | :34:55. | :34:57. | |
and the rest will be sold on to other farmers, | :34:58. | :35:00. | |
And they will finish them on better grass | :35:01. | :35:04. | |
and get them to go to slaughter in that way. | :35:05. | :35:06. | |
that we can save our grass for all our breeding ewes | :35:07. | :35:10. | |
that will be going to the rams in the autumn | :35:11. | :35:12. | |
I was very fortunate to inherit the tenancy of this farm from my dad, | :35:13. | :35:21. | |
getting on the farming ladder is nigh-on impossible. | :35:22. | :35:26. | |
So when I heard a scheme had been set up to help do just that, | :35:27. | :35:29. | |
Trystan Edwards is part of the team from the National Trust | :35:30. | :35:46. | |
Well, this is Llyndy Isaf and it was owned by Mr and Mrs Ken Owen | :35:47. | :35:56. | |
and they'd farmed it extremely sensitively | :35:57. | :35:59. | |
for the four decades that they were here | :36:00. | :36:01. | |
and they came to the trust saying, "We'd like you to take it over | :36:02. | :36:05. | |
"and manage it in the same way and protect it for the future." | :36:06. | :36:08. | |
So what sort of money did you have to raise? | :36:09. | :36:11. | |
and we went out for a public appeal last year. | :36:12. | :36:16. | |
And we managed to achieve that in six months | :36:17. | :36:18. | |
and over 20,000 people actually donated at the end of day. | :36:19. | :36:23. | |
So you ended up with a farm, then you've got to run it. | :36:24. | :36:26. | |
Well, at the end of the day, because the public donation, | :36:27. | :36:29. | |
we decided we had to have something quite special as a public benefit, | :36:30. | :36:34. | |
wouldn't it be great if we had an opportunity for a young farmer | :36:35. | :36:40. | |
to have an opportunity to start farming? | :36:41. | :36:44. | |
23-year-old Caryl Hughes grew up on a farm. | :36:45. | :36:47. | |
to run this 614-acre farm for 12 months. | :36:48. | :36:52. | |
She moved here with her dog, Mist, on the first of September. | :36:53. | :36:57. | |
Caryl, what made you decide to apply? | :36:58. | :37:00. | |
Basically, opportunity of a lifetime, isn't it? | :37:01. | :37:03. | |
key to a house, it's not a chance that comes every day. | :37:04. | :37:07. | |
I wasn't sure where I wanted to go either. | :37:08. | :37:11. | |
I'd got a degree, so I wasn't sure what I wanted to do, | :37:12. | :37:16. | |
so I'm hoping this will make or break me. | :37:17. | :37:19. | |
If I love it, then I'll be going on to manage farms and carry on, | :37:20. | :37:22. | |
or if I hate it, I won't want to see a sheep again, so we'll see. | :37:23. | :37:25. | |
I don't know. Perhaps they're crazy. I don't really know. | :37:26. | :37:30. | |
I've seen plenty of the country - plenty of the world. | :37:31. | :37:33. | |
so maybe I threw some ideas out about what I'd like to do here | :37:34. | :37:37. | |
and, obviously, I'm from a farming background as well, a sheep farm. | :37:38. | :37:44. | |
That's Snowdon up there, you can see just in the cloud area. | :37:45. | :37:52. | |
Northeast Wales, where Llangollen is, sort of thing, | :37:53. | :37:58. | |
so pretty used to this sort of terrain up there. | :37:59. | :38:01. | |
Part of the Berwyn Mountains, so it's all rock, heather and rivers, | :38:02. | :38:05. | |
like it is here, so home from home, really. | :38:06. | :38:07. | |
This is going to be hard work, isn't it? | :38:08. | :38:09. | |
It hasn't been farmed for a while, so there's no tracks, | :38:10. | :38:13. | |
I'm going to be fit as a fiddle anyway. | :38:14. | :38:25. | |
And what are your plans initially, then? | :38:26. | :38:27. | |
I'd start off with just getting the boundaries done, | :38:28. | :38:29. | |
about four and a half kilometres to do of that, | :38:30. | :38:34. | |
We've got some posts down there that need carrying up, | :38:35. | :38:38. | |
so we'll get a helicopter involved with that | :38:39. | :38:40. | |
so the contractor can do all of that work. | :38:41. | :38:43. | |
And then getting the sheep up here, getting the stock onto the farm | :38:44. | :38:46. | |
and we've actually got about 50 coming this afternoon. | :38:47. | :38:54. | |
Caryl will eventually farm more than 250 sheep. | :38:55. | :38:57. | |
The first batch is being delivered today by Arwyn Owen, | :38:58. | :39:00. | |
He'll be using all his experience to mentor Caryl over the coming year. | :39:01. | :39:06. | |
Nice new home for them! Nice new home! | :39:07. | :39:09. | |
Erm, it's very different from the summits of Snowdon, | :39:10. | :39:11. | |
or the slopes of Snowdon, where they've come from. | :39:12. | :39:13. | |
You know, they don't see grass like that up there, so... | :39:14. | :39:17. | |
So I'm sure they'll be very happy. Very happy. | :39:18. | :39:19. | |
And the Welsh is the breed that can live on those mountains, is it? | :39:20. | :39:22. | |
The thing is, it's been bred and developed | :39:23. | :39:27. | |
that this sort of climate and terrain throws at them, really. | :39:28. | :39:32. | |
I wish I was as tough as them! I often wish that! | :39:33. | :39:35. | |
And Caryl's got to be pretty tough as well, | :39:36. | :39:38. | |
hasn't she, to withstand this terrain? | :39:39. | :39:40. | |
It's wonderful that she's got someone | :39:41. | :39:44. | |
with all your years of experience of working these mountains | :39:45. | :39:47. | |
and it's going to be difficult in the winter, isn't it? | :39:48. | :39:51. | |
The winter is the most challenging period, there's no doubt. | :39:52. | :39:55. | |
and that's what makes working and farming here so interesting, | :39:56. | :40:00. | |
in that each of those seasons brings something different. | :40:01. | :40:02. | |
Caryl's a young person coming onto this farm for 12 months. | :40:03. | :40:06. | |
What are the things she's going to find difficult? | :40:07. | :40:08. | |
Maybe working with us is going to be one of those challenges! | :40:09. | :40:14. | |
You know, it's classed as a marginal farm, | :40:15. | :40:16. | |
and when you're farming on the margins, | :40:17. | :40:18. | |
I think all the challenges are that much more extreme. | :40:19. | :40:21. | |
The soils, you know, because they're thin, actually working them | :40:22. | :40:27. | |
and doing anything with them, you know, there's a big challenge there. | :40:28. | :40:30. | |
And then, in terms of the topography, | :40:31. | :40:32. | |
That combination does make farming difficult. | :40:33. | :40:37. | |
And it's great that people such as Caryl are coming through | :40:38. | :40:40. | |
and are interested in taking up these challenges, | :40:41. | :40:42. | |
and I'm sure, in 20 years' time, 30 years' time, | :40:43. | :40:46. | |
I'm sure Caryl will be one of the leaders in the industry. | :40:47. | :40:55. | |
What sort of things have you been up to? | :40:56. | :40:58. | |
Going round some fences, knocking more staples in. | :40:59. | :41:02. | |
And do you feel quite a lot of pressure, taking on the farm? | :41:03. | :41:05. | |
Erm, I wouldn't say it's, like, pressure, | :41:06. | :41:07. | |
Everyone's watching me, aren't they? It's going to be quite a big... | :41:08. | :41:12. | |
so there's a lot of people going to be watching what I'm doing | :41:13. | :41:16. | |
and, obviously, people put money in towards the farm, | :41:17. | :41:19. | |
so they're going to want to see what's come out of it. | :41:20. | :41:21. | |
because I've got enough help and support off Arwyn | :41:22. | :41:25. | |
so it's not so much pressure, but just people overlooking it. | :41:26. | :41:29. | |
Not only is Llyndy Isaf a beautiful place, | :41:30. | :41:38. | |
it's also got a very special legend attached to it. | :41:39. | :41:41. | |
Up on that hill over there, Dinas Emrys, | :41:42. | :41:43. | |
is where a red dragon and a white dragon fought. | :41:44. | :41:45. | |
The white dragon fell and lost, and fell into the lake here, | :41:46. | :41:48. | |
and then the red dragon won and became the emblem of Wales. | :41:49. | :41:54. | |
And here you are, farming the land around that legend, | :41:55. | :41:56. | |
and you'll be a legend in your own lifetime soon. | :41:57. | :41:59. | |
SHE LAUGHS Yeah, not so sure! | :42:00. | :42:07. | |
Most of it is designated as an Area Of Outstanding Natural Beauty, | :42:08. | :42:13. | |
and RSPB Minsmere sits right at its heart. | :42:14. | :42:18. | |
Every year, migratory birds touch down here | :42:19. | :42:21. | |
after thousands of miles on the wing, | :42:22. | :42:23. | |
and I'm hoping to catch some of the new arrivals. | :42:24. | :42:30. | |
On a wet day like today, the best place to see them from is the hide. | :42:31. | :42:34. | |
The RSPB's Adam Rowlands is my guide. | :42:35. | :42:37. | |
So, what have we got out there now, Adam? | :42:38. | :42:39. | |
we've got a haven for a variety of species. | :42:40. | :42:43. | |
and big numbers of teal in front of us here. | :42:44. | :42:48. | |
The ones with the white breasts and the chestnut sides, | :42:49. | :42:50. | |
asleep just beyond them, are shoveler. | :42:51. | :42:52. | |
There's widgeon, and just beyond this bund in front of us, | :42:53. | :42:57. | |
you can see black-tailed godwits feeding in the mud there. | :42:58. | :43:00. | |
Oh, they're such a great shape, the godwits. | :43:01. | :43:03. | |
And where have all these birds come from? | :43:04. | :43:05. | |
Well, they've come from a variety of different locations. | :43:06. | :43:08. | |
A lot of the duck that we can see right in front of us | :43:09. | :43:10. | |
and a lot of these birds will breed in Russia | :43:11. | :43:14. | |
and right the way across into Siberia. | :43:15. | :43:16. | |
But the godwits, they've come from the North West, | :43:17. | :43:19. | |
and spend the winter here on the Suffolk coast. | :43:20. | :43:26. | |
What impact has the warm summer had? | :43:27. | :43:28. | |
All the evidence is it's been a good breeding season. | :43:29. | :43:31. | |
The late spring had an impact, but they had a good second half, | :43:32. | :43:36. | |
and we're seeing lots of young birds arriving. | :43:37. | :43:39. | |
Here comes your very difficult question for your quizmaster - | :43:40. | :43:42. | |
how many birds do you think you'll see this year? | :43:43. | :43:45. | |
Well, it's always difficult to predict. | :43:46. | :43:47. | |
but literally thousands of birds come to spend the winter here. | :43:48. | :43:53. | |
Minsmere's a haven to a wide variety of wildlife, | :43:54. | :43:55. | |
so over 5,300 species of plant and animal recorded here. | :43:56. | :44:00. | |
More than any other reserve in the country. | :44:01. | :44:02. | |
So your pre-booking predictions are good? Well, let's hope so! | :44:03. | :44:12. | |
When you come here, you expect to see birds, | :44:13. | :44:14. | |
but there's a little spot up the coast | :44:15. | :44:16. | |
that you'd imagine wildlife thriving. | :44:17. | :44:20. | |
From the time it first started producing electricity | :44:21. | :44:31. | |
almost 20 years ago, Sizewell B power station | :44:32. | :44:34. | |
has worked alongside the local wildlife trust | :44:35. | :44:37. | |
to ensure that the natural world is cared for | :44:38. | :44:40. | |
has been to care for the environment that surrounds the plant. | :44:41. | :44:49. | |
and anything else we've got swimming around, any other mammals. | :44:50. | :45:02. | |
Right, so you've got a little pot of clay here. We have. | :45:03. | :45:05. | |
Anything that's inquisitive enough to come through the tunnel | :45:06. | :45:08. | |
will leave its footprint. Ah, you're after the footprints. | :45:09. | :45:11. | |
Right, where does it need to go, then? | :45:12. | :45:13. | |
We're going to pop it just on the edge here, on the edge of the water, | :45:14. | :45:16. | |
and we'll then wait and see what happens. | :45:17. | :45:18. | |
Are you going to drag or lift? We'll just lift. OK. | :45:19. | :45:20. | |
And then...hopefully without falling in! | :45:21. | :45:23. | |
Alan's monitoring this area for the non-native American mink. | :45:24. | :45:31. | |
They're escapees from fur farms during the '50s and '60s, | :45:32. | :45:35. | |
which have devastated our native water vole population. | :45:36. | :45:41. | |
First impression, you start to lose your moorhens, | :45:42. | :45:46. | |
but they will take things like kingfisher. | :45:47. | :45:47. | |
Again, you've got a bankside-burrowing bird, | :45:48. | :45:50. | |
and it's been known that kingfishers have been predated by them. | :45:51. | :45:54. | |
I don't think I've ever come across a conservation site - | :45:55. | :45:56. | |
an award-winning conservation site - | :45:57. | :45:58. | |
so close to a nuclear power station either. | :45:59. | :46:01. | |
Well, we've been working hand-in-hand with EDF Energy | :46:02. | :46:04. | |
and, yes, it's awarded by the Wildlife Trust | :46:05. | :46:08. | |
for good conservation work on sites owned by businesses. | :46:09. | :46:11. | |
The wildlife seems to be thriving around here. | :46:12. | :46:21. | |
The power station takes in and pumps back | :46:22. | :46:24. | |
5 million tonnes of seawater every day. | :46:25. | :46:26. | |
Rochelle Grimmer's job is to make sure that the water's safe. | :46:27. | :46:31. | |
Rochelle, am I dressed appropriately? Enough layers? | :46:32. | :46:33. | |
Good! What are you doing with this, then? | :46:34. | :46:36. | |
OK, what we're going to do is take a test of this water here. | :46:37. | :46:39. | |
What's it been doing, and where is it going? | :46:40. | :46:44. | |
It's seawater that comes through our building, | :46:45. | :46:46. | |
cools our secondary circuit, which is non-active, | :46:47. | :46:49. | |
and then comes out to our outfall here, | :46:50. | :46:51. | |
So it hasn't had any contact with anything nuclear? | :46:52. | :46:55. | |
No, this is completely from our non-active side. | :46:56. | :46:58. | |
It's a long way down, isn't it? It is. | :46:59. | :47:04. | |
Before the seawater enters the plant, | :47:05. | :47:14. | |
these drums filter out any fish, mussels and seaweed, | :47:15. | :47:17. | |
so they can be returned to the sea safely. | :47:18. | :47:21. | |
Today, we're testing the chlorine levels | :47:22. | :47:23. | |
What's that? OK, this is a powder agent | :47:24. | :47:30. | |
This will form a coloured complex, which will be proportional | :47:31. | :47:34. | |
to how much chlorine is in the sample. | :47:35. | :47:36. | |
So the chlorine becomes coloured... | :47:37. | :47:38. | |
Exactly. ..and then you can identify how much is in the water. | :47:39. | :47:41. | |
So, as you can see, it's already started | :47:42. | :47:43. | |
to turn to a pink colour here. Pale pink. | :47:44. | :47:46. | |
Is it quite a strange place to work, here at the power plant? | :47:47. | :47:53. | |
Because you're surrounded by all this amazing countryside, | :47:54. | :47:56. | |
testing for chlorine and all sorts of things. | :47:57. | :47:59. | |
Well, you say that, but you get used to it, | :48:00. | :48:01. | |
because it's your daily job, and then, on my lunch breaks, | :48:02. | :48:04. | |
I can go out, wander down the beach, get some fish and chips, | :48:05. | :48:06. | |
The wildlife that surrounds the power station | :48:07. | :48:11. | |
It's even making inroads into the heart of the site itself. | :48:12. | :48:17. | |
I suppose you could say that that is a living landscape, | :48:18. | :48:21. | |
because that is the theme this year of the Countryfile calendar. | :48:22. | :48:24. | |
But, to be absolutely honest, there are nice pictures in this. | :48:25. | :48:27. | |
Here's how you get your hands on one. | :48:28. | :48:31. | |
The calendar costs ?9 including UK delivery. | :48:32. | :48:34. | |
You can buy yours either via our website... | :48:35. | :48:41. | |
To order by post, send your name, address, and cheque to: | :48:42. | :49:06. | |
And please make cheques payable to BBC Countryfile Calendar. | :49:07. | :49:10. | |
A minimum of ?4 from the sale of every calendar | :49:11. | :49:13. | |
will be donated to the BBC Children In Need appeal. | :49:14. | :49:16. | |
Now, I'm going to get out of my hard hat. | :49:17. | :49:18. | |
Here's the weather for the week ahead. | :49:19. | :49:32. | |
Could evening. We will definitely have to exchange hard hat is for | :49:33. | :49:38. | |
woolly ones through the weekend. We are in for our first blast of winter | :49:39. | :49:42. | |
weather is arctic air descends to the country through the course of | :49:43. | :49:49. | |
tomorrow. It has been a chilly November day today, with this | :49:50. | :49:52. | |
weather front meandering. To the north of it, cold enough for Apache | :49:53. | :49:58. | |
frost and icy patches even, to the south of it, grey and misty. -- cold | :49:59. | :50:07. | |
enough for patchy frost. Hide the weather systems the cold, arctic our | :50:08. | :50:15. | |
lives. It will filter into tomorrow. Grey and misty, the rain trickles | :50:16. | :50:19. | |
southwards, but at least with the arctic air it brightens up with | :50:20. | :50:24. | |
sunshine but, boy, will it feel cold. Temperatures barely three or | :50:25. | :50:29. | |
four degrees above freezing. I that stage, snow will be settling at | :50:30. | :50:34. | |
lower levels in Scotland. Temperatures in the South on a par | :50:35. | :50:41. | |
with today, but tomorrow the cold air filter southwards, so there is | :50:42. | :50:44. | |
an increasing risk that the snow showers will descend southwards. | :50:45. | :50:50. | |
More importantly, it will dampen the ground. So with the first widespread | :50:51. | :50:55. | |
frost of the season, clearly, we are concerned about ice. It looks like | :50:56. | :51:00. | |
it will be our first significant icy venture through Monday night and | :51:01. | :51:05. | |
into Tuesday morning. It could quite slippery underfoot and on the roads. | :51:06. | :51:12. | |
There will be a bracing north-westerly wind. The risk of the | :51:13. | :51:20. | |
show was inland -- showers inland, don't be surprised to see snow. It | :51:21. | :51:26. | |
sunshine in eastern areas. Up to seven degrees on the thermometer, | :51:27. | :51:31. | |
the first cold day throughout the country. It will feel below freezing | :51:32. | :51:37. | |
in the North with the wind. Tuesday night and into Wednesday, | :51:38. | :51:41. | |
this developing area of low pressure will be a fly in the ointment. It is | :51:42. | :51:45. | |
possible that many of us will see snow, even in seven areas and even | :51:46. | :51:52. | |
at lower levels. Hopefully it will turn back to rain. It will be cold | :51:53. | :51:57. | |
and frosty on Wednesday but it looks like miserable, wet, windy and cold. | :51:58. | :52:02. | |
Despite the bracing wind, we start to push the brighter weather back in | :52:03. | :52:07. | |
by the end of Wednesday as high-pressure slips in from the | :52:08. | :52:10. | |
north. It changes the orientation of the wind and the showers, a really | :52:11. | :52:15. | |
cold day in the bracing north-east winds on Wednesday. I think the | :52:16. | :52:23. | |
wind-chill will be significant. The best of the sunshine is in the | :52:24. | :52:27. | |
south-west, although by that stage on Friday we are losing the wind, | :52:28. | :52:30. | |
especially in the north, as high-pressure establishes. Some | :52:31. | :52:35. | |
really cold starts in the morning, away from the south and east we will | :52:36. | :52:38. | |
not have such a significant wind-chill. Showers and a bracing | :52:39. | :52:43. | |
wind, not a bad day for many but it will be a lot colder through the | :52:44. | :52:47. | |
weekend. The first taste of winter, widespread night-time frost is, icy | :52:48. | :52:53. | |
roads and even snow. Stay tuned to the forecast, we will be digging out | :52:54. | :52:54. | |
the hat, We've been exploring the beautiful | :52:55. | :53:06. | |
low-lying landscape of Suffolk. While Julia's been finding local | :53:07. | :53:10. | |
wildlife in the most unusual places, I've been paying tribute to a true | :53:11. | :53:17. | |
Suffolk legend - the Suffolk Punch. Unsurpassed in its dedication | :53:18. | :53:26. | |
to work, these benevolent beasts But Britain's most historic | :53:27. | :53:30. | |
draught horse is now category 1 on the | :53:31. | :53:39. | |
Rare Breeds Survival Trust Watchlist. There are fewer than 500 Suffolk | :53:40. | :53:43. | |
Punches alive in the world today, making this horse more rare | :53:44. | :53:47. | |
than the black rhino. Well, what made these Suffolks | :53:48. | :53:53. | |
so popular for farm work Now, pulling double their body weight | :53:54. | :53:57. | |
is well within range It's almost a twig for you, | :53:58. | :54:02. | |
I'm afraid, 'In the 20th-century, the cherished | :54:03. | :54:11. | |
Suffolk lost its traditional job 'to a new kid on the block - | :54:12. | :54:19. | |
the tractor.' 'At last, the Suffolk Punch | :54:20. | :54:23. | |
is coming back into its own, And what better way | :54:24. | :54:47. | |
to employ the selfless animals than to harness their might | :54:48. | :54:53. | |
for conservation? Bruce has been working | :54:54. | :54:58. | |
on a construction project for another of the world's | :54:59. | :55:00. | |
most threatened species. but the stag beetle is among | :55:01. | :55:06. | |
the most vulnerable As a larva and pupa, it spends | :55:07. | :55:10. | |
up to seven years underground, chomping its way | :55:11. | :55:16. | |
through decaying wood. We all like to clear dead wood | :55:17. | :55:20. | |
from our gardens, but our tidying up has a devastating side effect | :55:21. | :55:24. | |
on the stag beetle's population. It is, this is | :55:25. | :55:29. | |
a stag-beetle log pile. Well, I've seen some | :55:30. | :55:33. | |
log piles in my time, Well, the stag beetles, | :55:34. | :55:35. | |
their larvae, they need soggy wood So a normal log pile | :55:36. | :55:40. | |
that isn't underground So your message would be, then, | :55:41. | :55:44. | |
if you've got some dead wood, Yeah, yeah, certainly. | :55:45. | :55:49. | |
Don't burn every bit of dead wood. Try and do imaginative | :55:50. | :55:54. | |
things with it. Make different sorts of log piles, | :55:55. | :55:55. | |
have some in the shade, some in the sun, do some modern art | :55:56. | :55:58. | |
with dead wood, yeah, like this. of what potentially | :55:59. | :56:01. | |
could be moving in very soon? Yeah, absolutely, yes. | :56:02. | :56:07. | |
I'll show you. OK, so these are some things | :56:08. | :56:10. | |
that came out of this area here. Oh, yeah. Just about | :56:11. | :56:13. | |
half an hour ago. Oh, gosh! This is what we're looking for, | :56:14. | :56:15. | |
isn't it? This is a grub of a stag beetle. | :56:16. | :56:17. | |
Look at that! And how old would this be, | :56:18. | :56:20. | |
at this stage in its life? That one's about | :56:21. | :56:23. | |
four or five years old. It's just munching away at the wood, | :56:24. | :56:25. | |
and it's helping to recycle it. And, in fact, we've got | :56:26. | :56:30. | |
this bit of wood here It's almost like | :56:31. | :56:32. | |
a bit of art form, really. Isn't it just, yeah! | :56:33. | :56:37. | |
But that's been done by the grub eating away and helping | :56:38. | :56:39. | |
to recycle the wood. Otherwise, we'd be, you know, | :56:40. | :56:41. | |
sort of 20 miles deep in dead trees. So what happens to it | :56:42. | :56:44. | |
after this state here? it forms a cocoon | :56:45. | :56:47. | |
about the size of a duck egg, and it's in the cocoon | :56:48. | :56:51. | |
for about six weeks. Right, having spent six years | :56:52. | :56:54. | |
like this? Yeah, absolutely. And then it comes out as an adult, | :56:55. | :56:57. | |
and we've got an adult here. With these amazing jaws. | :56:58. | :57:00. | |
Look at that! Only the dads have | :57:01. | :57:07. | |
the jaws like that, and they use them for rutting, | :57:08. | :57:12. | |
like a deer. Like stag deer. It may look ferocious - | :57:13. | :57:15. | |
it can't do a thing to you. And how long would it be | :57:16. | :57:19. | |
in this stage for? This four-week stage | :57:20. | :57:22. | |
is about attracting a female That's right, yes. | :57:23. | :57:28. | |
Magnificent, isn't it? But it's not just | :57:29. | :57:34. | |
beetles that benefit It can also be converted | :57:35. | :57:37. | |
into a desirable bee hotel. as opposed to the basement. | :57:38. | :57:44. | |
Absolutely. And they'll go off and help to | :57:45. | :57:47. | |
pollinate all your local orchards, and your gardens, but you can | :57:48. | :57:51. | |
use all your drill bits, because all the different-sized | :57:52. | :57:53. | |
holes you make in the wood will attract | :57:54. | :57:56. | |
different species of bees. The small ones will go for | :57:57. | :57:58. | |
the little-diameter holes, the bigger ones, like leafcutters, | :57:59. | :58:01. | |
will need the biggest holes. The perfect refuge | :58:02. | :58:07. | |
for lots of little beasties, Next week, John will be | :58:08. | :58:11. | |
in Oxfordshire, looking at the part played | :58:12. | :58:20. | |
by our British countryside It'll be nice to see you, | :58:21. | :58:23. | |
to see you... Bruce? | :58:24. | :58:30. |