The Peaks Countryfile


The Peaks

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Two very different landforms that have shaped the county's landscape,

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This fabulous limestone is what gives the White Peak its name.

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Now these rocks are the relics of an ancient reef, weathered and eroded

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over time but there are even greater treasures way down beneath my feet.

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Where the limestone of the White Peak gives way to

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the gritstone of the Dark Peak lives one of our most beautiful creatures.

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Mountain hares, and at this time of year they're moulting their

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The thing is, that could spell trouble for the population here.

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Tom's also searching for an elusive animal.

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I'm on the lookout for wild boar, which can be a bit hit-and-miss

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to be over 1,000 here in the Forest of Dean,

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that's quite a big patch and, as I'll be finding out,

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not everybody thinks they are a welcome sight.

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And Adam's taking a look at an essential piece of farming kit.

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Modern-day tractors have got onboard computers and satellite navigation.

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But, believe it or not, I learned to drive on a tractor

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they've changed, even in my short lifetime.

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The jutting crags and brooding moors of the Peak District in Derbyshire.

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Visible signs of a tale that starts long, long ago.

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Like all good stories, it's a tale of light and dark.

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But it's not about good versus evil, dragons and knights,

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The Peak District is divided into two halves.

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The White Peak of limestone formed from marine creatures that

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lived hundreds of millions of years ago when this land was underwater.

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And the Dark Peak of gritstone and shale washed down from the Highlands.

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The story begins with these two different types of rock,

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how they've shaped the landscape, its wildlife, its industry.

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And where better to begin than here near Castleton -

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where the Yin of the White Peak meets the Yang of the Dark Peak?

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And it's the ancient story of the white limestone

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that fascinates local geologist Pete Lauder.

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Of all the places in the Peak District,

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Well, the reason, really, Matt, is because this is the best place

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to have a look at a limestone reef in Derbyshire.

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We're talking about an underwater reef.

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Well, the water would have been just above our heads here.

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Just lapping over the top of us. Yeah.

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And the reef would have been going down out there into a very,

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very deep basin. That was around about 350 million years ago,

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in a period of time which we call the Carboniferous.

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And you can see that the front of the reef curves all the way

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round there, round towards Castleton and above Castleton over there.

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This rock here was made up of microorganisms,

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lime-secreting algae, along with lots of other reef-building things

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that grew through that and supported the reef.

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Just beyond that, behind us, would have been a very shallow lagoon

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Measured in sort of metres. How far did this reef extend, then, Pete?

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and probably the best way I can show you is on a map.

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So we are here and the reef continues on round here...

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You can also see it extending over here. Yeah, it is big, then.

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So this is a series of reefs over a period of time

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and that defines a very large lagoon about 35km by round about 25km.

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I mean, there must be a huge amount of evidence of an underwater habitat,

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otherwise you would have no idea that it was a reef.

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and that's exactly the reason why I brought you here. A fossil hunt?

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A fossil hunt. Oh, yeah, I'm excited about that. Let's go.

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Don't forget your rucksack. OK, let's go, right.

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And tucked away on a very windy ridge,

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we find the proof that we're looking for.

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So all these tiny little circles here, they almost look

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like that could be erosion through rain or what have you, but how do you

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know that these were sea creatures or some kind of marine life?

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And here's one that I found in Indonesia. Oh, my goodness.

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And you can see they're exactly the same. Yes.

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So it tells us here that the corals 350 million years ago

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formed in warm, clear, shallow, aerated waters.

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So looking at this horseshoe shape that's right in front of us here,

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would these corals stretch all the way around the outside?

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Well, they would. All the way round the edge

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Not just the corals, though, but here you can see that's

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covered with these little fossils which are called crinoids.

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That is just mesmerising. These are sea lilies. Right.

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They're akin today to things like sea urchins.

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OK, and it's very important, isn't it, to leave this kind of stuff here.

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For anybody that's visiting the Peak District and thinks

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and then put this on the mantelpiece...

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Well, indeed, I bring my students here

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and we like to have that left there for everyone to see.

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So this is the reason why we brought these from broken slabs that

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there are still greater treasures to be found right beneath my feet.

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And later, I'll be heading underground to see them.

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Now, it's often claimed it was here in the Peak District

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that the last of our native wild boar was killed.

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what we do know is that the wild boar is back in Britain and,

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as Tom has been discovering, not everyone's happy about it.

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The idea of reintroducing native wild animals

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to our countryside sounds romantic and it's already happening.

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Once on the brink of extinction in the UK,

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red kites have become a common sight since we brought them back.

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And released beavers have established colonies in Scotland.

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Wildlife groups say these are success stories,

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though some people, including farmers,

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are worried about their impact on their life and the landscape.

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The biggest controversy comes from plans to reintroduce

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large mammals at the top of the food chain, like wolves.

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There's been lots of speculation about what effect

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the return of large animals could have

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but there is already an example here in Gloucestershire - the wild boar.

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They became extinct in Britain more than 300 years ago but,

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in the 1990s, people imported them from Europe for commercial farming.

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Some escaped and now people are reporting sightings

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By far the biggest population is in the Forest of Dean,

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where I've come to find out about the impact they are having.

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First, though, I want to see one for myself.

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They're very inquisitive, I liken them to cows.

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They've got very bad eyesight, very good sense of smell,

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they're very curious and, very often,

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when they sense ourselves or a dog, they'll approach us.

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David Slater has become skilled at spotting the boar

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And he's going to help me to track one now.

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The paths are quite worn here, do they follow some of the same tracks?

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They roam around night and day and we're quickly on the trail.

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Here are some trees where they've been rubbing up against.

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This one, you can see they've taken a big chunk out of it.

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What they do, they sharpen their teeth for fighting.

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An adult male can weigh up to 200 kilos,

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I'd say that's a few days old. Plenty of signs.

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Suddenly, every tree stump is a potential boar shape.

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Two hours in and the most promising sign yet,

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I think even someone with limited tracking experience,

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like myself, might have a chance of following this for a while.

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We follow the trail deep into the woods.

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Slightly losing the mud but there seems to be some

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disturbance in the ground going off this way.

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A lot of ground disturbance, you can see they have been here.

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But it's gone four o'clock and getting dark.

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Sadly we haven't seen any boar yet and night has fallen

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but that isn't the end of our filming because we have an infrared

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camera, which means you can see in the dark and we have a camera trap.

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OK, Dave, where do you think we should put it?

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These night-vision cameras are motion-activated,

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so any animal passing this way should be recorded.

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And, when we review the footage, there's plenty of wildlife,

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We finally caught one on camera, an impressive beast back in the wild

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but not everyone in the Forest of Dean

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The presence of the wild boar is certainly causing a stir

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It seems that, in the Forest of Dean,

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everybody knows someone who's had a run-in with these beasts.

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The boar rumours even include claims they've taken lambs,

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something we've found no direct evidence for.

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But there certainly have been some nasty incidents involving dogs.

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Jane Morse nearly lost her springer spaniel Lily

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No lasting damage? No. She's doing OK. Good, that all seems fine.

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Lily's one of a handful of boar-injured dogs

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vet Mark Hinds has operated on in recent years.

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Tell me about the actual incident, what happened?

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Well, we just took her out into the wood where we live and we've been

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doing that walk for years and years and years

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and the next thing we know, there was horrific squealing and noise

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and, obviously, she'd disturbed a boar.

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What did she look like when she came out? There was blood everywhere.

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Across her stomach she had a piercing right through here

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and I think she had about 10 or 12 stitches across her stomach.

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Wow. I know, it was pretty horrific at the time.

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How often do you see incidents like this?

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We probably see one or two a year, not too many

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but, when we do, they're pretty major injuries.

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Its leg shattered by a boar. It's typical of stories from local vets.

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Last year, more than 100 boar were killed in car crashes,

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First thing I knew is all the airbags went off.

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I didn't even see the boar initially,

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just ploughed straight into it head-on.

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All the airbags went off, ground to a halt

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and then through a gap I could just about see this boar in the road

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and wrote my car off and he walked away.

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the boar are stumbling into another row,

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as they churn up land in their hunt for food.

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Boars can just roll up the turf like it was a piece of carpet,

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rootling around beneath for worms, grubs, roots,

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And it's not just an isolated patch. Look at that.

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Roadside verges and gardens can all get the treatment.

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Even the local community hospital's putting up a new fence after

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And there are concerns they turn woodland into mudbaths,

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destroying bluebells and other wild flowers.

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It seems the boar are courting trouble every way they turn.

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So how can a once extinct heavyweight wild animal

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fit back into the 21st-century British countryside?

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who want to reintroduce other wild animals like the lynx or the wolf?

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ELLIE: Earlier, Matt was exploring the limestone country

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I'm a few miles north in the Dark Peak.

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This landscape is defined by gritstone, a brooding presence.

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And, on a clear day, one of the best places to see it is up here

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I've come up here hoping to walk a bit of the edge with

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married couple Paul Besley and Alison Council.

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so he should be able to guide us through this fog.

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Paul, Alison, how are you doing? Hello. Hello. Good.

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Worth that hike for this incredible view that I've been promised(!)

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This is where we are here, so we're on what's called the Long Causeway

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So, we've got the gritstone behind us, and in front of us,

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this is the gritstone country we're stood in front of now,

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and then beyond that you've got the villages of Eyam and Castleton,

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and that's where the limestone country starts.

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It's inspiring stuff, isn't it, Alison?

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So lucky to be living close to the Peak District -

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'Alison's an internationally renowned artist.'

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'She draws inspiration from the rocks above her head,

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'the ground beneath her feet and the maps she uses to explore it.

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'Her work takes its cue from Ordnance Survey maps,

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'but instead of flat paper, she brings the land to life

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'in three glittering and shimmering dimensions.

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'Her first work can be seen in Sheffield's Millennium Gallery.'

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And it looks amazing against the older pieces, too, doesn't it?

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Quite abstract - what's it made out of?

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It's made out of stainless steel. And what's your idea behind it?

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I was very interested in photo etching -

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I just sort of thought I'd try etching a map.

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So, this is the first map I've done of an actual place.

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I chose an area very close to where I live,

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which is the bottom right-hand reservoir, Damflask. Right.

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We can see the thing on the map, here... Yeah.

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So, this is very local to where I live, and I used to quite regularly

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kind of run and walk around this reservoir.

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And steel because of the area we're in - cos we're here in Sheffield.

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I love stainless steel as a material,

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and I was interested in kind of making drawings into 3-D objects.

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This stainless steel here's about a millimetre thick,

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but you can still see there's quite a lot of detail in there,

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with the reservoir being etched into it.

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It's amazing - the detail on there, as you say,

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it's quite extraordinary, given how thick it is,

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and that gives it this almost draughtsman-like quality -

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the accuracy of a map - and it can kind of, as you move around,

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gives you a flight over the landscape

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that you can't really get otherwise. Mm-hm.

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From this, Alison has gone on to create

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other areas of Britain in the same exacting detail.

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Back in her studio, she's showing me how the metal maps are made.

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I've got a simple grid, so I outline the grid,

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and I enlarge it, which we see here. Oh, yeah.

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I then select the contour lines that I'm going to put on the piece...

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No. So, on this particular map, I'm doing it every 50m.

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the whole map might kind of disintegrate, so it's...

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Because they'd be too close together.

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So, that gives you a printout of what we've got,

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and I can then e-mail this for etching in stainless steel.

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Alison's drawings are printed onto film...

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..and chemicals are used to eat away at the metal,

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It does - it comes back as a flat sheet.

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Can I have a go at popping them out? You can do.

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There's the actual map. Oh, it looks amazing.

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Um, and obviously you've got to read your contours.

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Shall I just do one to kind of start you off? Yeah.

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so I would just hold it on each side of the contour...

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You're pushing down? I'm pushing that one down, and that one...

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Oh, because that one's high. ..that one's going to go up.

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A bit of map-reading's in order, as well.

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You do - you do need to know your contours. How amazing.

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Oh, a wide variety of people - it could be just general map lovers.

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People normally have some kind of association with the area, so...

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because she'd met her fiance climbing at Malham Cove... Aww.

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..and she was going to put it on his pillow

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the night before they got married. Romantic! Really romantic.

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because I've been so worried about breaking it... It won't break.

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You're doing very well, there. I'll keep working on it.

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You're doing very well. I'll keep lifting the land as I go.

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Is this is where we were? Yes - we walked up there.

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Oh, yeah! Yes, yeah. We walked up this little kind of valley, here...

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Hey! ..and then were about to go up Stanage Edge.

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There we go! So, that feels like a reward for the walk today.

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'a striking memento of the Dark Peak.'

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Now, as we know, the UK has taken a battering

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with flooding in parts of Scotland, Northern Ireland,

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One area that was particularly badly hit was Cumbria,

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where they had to cope with record amounts of rainfall.

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We've been there to see how the rural community is managing.

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This film contains images some people may find upsetting.

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Cumbria, a land of hill farms, villages and market towns.

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Last weekend, it was hit hard by record amounts of rain.

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Nature has turned this beautiful rural county upside down.

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There are 33 severe flood warnings in place across the UK,

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and Cumbria Police have declared a major incident.

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Carlisle and towns like Kendal were hit hard,

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but the floods also brought chaos to the countryside.

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Destruction, devastation - there's nothing left, you know?

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We didn't even know if we were going to survive it.

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Fierce water - not just still water, raging. Raging water.

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For many farmers, the damage has been devastating.

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John Richardson farms Swaledale sheep near the village of Dufton.

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His family have been here for four generations.

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There was news warnings on the Friday

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that the weather was going to be a little bit bleak.

:21:07.:21:09.

We made sure all the sheep were put onto high ground.

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John received a worrying phone call from his neighbour.

:21:16.:21:21.

He says, "You're going to have to come quick -

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"there's some sheep on the way down the river,"

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and where the sheep had been sheltering,

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it had all given away and washed them into the river.

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The sheer volume of water had caused a landslide,

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dragging down everything in its path.

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but altogether we had 41... missing.

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There's nowhere else for them to have gone.

:21:51.:21:58.

And for John and his son Ben, it's now a recovery operation.

:21:59.:22:02.

The water was - well, you can see, on the rock face, there.

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the river lays bare the tragedy it inflicted.

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It's our livelihood, and we've put all the work in -

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lambing them, picking the rams to get them.

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But we can't leave them in the river, or the riverside.

:22:22.:22:24.

It's only six months since I had a packet of them pinched, you know,

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and flood's come and IT'S pinched them, now, so...

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You just don't recover overnight. It takes a long while.

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You miss those best bloodlines, and it's... That's the big worry.

:22:43.:22:50.

John's not alone - other farms lost livestock, too,

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and a huge amount of rural property and land

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But the Cumbrian community is rallying round.

:22:57.:23:05.

An old fire station in the market town of Penrith

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to where we're organising the donations...

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Anne Marie Lynch is one of the volunteers

:23:18.:23:19.

helping to get aid to isolated rural areas.

:23:20.:23:23.

They have no power, they have no water.

:23:24.:23:27.

An area of Appleby last night received no help whatsoever,

:23:28.:23:30.

We have people in Patterdale who are very hard to reach,

:23:31.:23:35.

and we're actually using the army and mountain rescue to get to them.

:23:36.:23:40.

Volunteer Kerryanne Wilde is off to deliver care packages

:23:41.:23:44.

to some of the smaller villages and hamlets in the county.

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All the houses down here are uninsurable,

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so when they are flooded, they absolutely lose everything.

:23:54.:23:58.

Driving through Keswick and seeing people's homes, full homes,

:23:59.:24:02.

the dirt and the sewerage that's been left behind,

:24:03.:24:08.

It's really hard to be professional when it's your own county,

:24:09.:24:14.

it's your own people that have been so badly hit and affected.

:24:15.:24:20.

First stop is Sue and John Dust in the village of Tebay.

:24:21.:24:25.

Those garden walls that you can see across the road,

:24:26.:24:32.

it was basically level with those walls.

:24:33.:24:35.

You could have put a boat on it. It was a horrendous sight.

:24:36.:24:39.

Sue's 68-year-old neighbour Joan Smith

:24:40.:24:42.

also became stranded by the rising water.

:24:43.:24:45.

and within less than half a minute - and I mean half a minute -

:24:46.:24:55.

it was completely all across, right the way through the bottom floor.

:24:56.:24:59.

I said to my husband, "There's some candles in there,"

:25:00.:25:03.

so he grabbed some candles, and I was out there trying to light them,

:25:04.:25:08.

and my son said, "Mum, we've got to go, Mum, we've got to go.

:25:09.:25:11.

But trudging through that water from here up to my son's car...

:25:12.:25:18.

But there you go - what did they say in the war? "Keep calm and carry on."

:25:19.:25:32.

Amongst all the heartache, it's great to see how the community

:25:33.:25:35.

and the emergency services in Cumbria have rallied round

:25:36.:25:39.

even in the most isolated rural areas.

:25:40.:25:45.

But many now want to know why this happened,

:25:46.:25:48.

and whether they'll be protected in the future.

:25:49.:25:51.

It's an issue we'll be returning to in the new year.

:25:52.:26:01.

Earlier, Tom was on the trail of wild boar.

:26:02.:26:04.

These once-lost animals now seem to be on the loose all over

:26:05.:26:07.

the British Isles, and causing some concerns.

:26:08.:26:11.

So, are there lessons to learn about reintroducing wild animals

:26:12.:26:14.

Escapes from boar farms have resulted in sightings

:26:15.:26:26.

and here, in the Forest of Dean in Gloucestershire,

:26:27.:26:31.

a perfect habitat seems to be leading to a population explosion.

:26:32.:26:36.

There are said to be over a thousand here,

:26:37.:26:38.

but their apparent success isn't going down well with everyone.

:26:39.:26:42.

The wild boar root up pasture and the roadside verge,

:26:43.:26:47.

have run-ins with dogs, and are even blamed for car accidents.

:26:48.:26:50.

So, have all of you guys got stories about boar?

:26:51.:26:53.

We've had instances of boar in our garden.

:26:54.:26:54.

They've broken through our garden fence

:26:55.:26:57.

and managed to turn over the whole garden,

:26:58.:26:59.

so it looks like a vegetable patch, now.

:27:00.:27:01.

It's been rotovated all the way over,

:27:02.:27:03.

so we let the dogs out to try and shoo him away,

:27:04.:27:06.

and he chased all three dogs back into the house,

:27:07.:27:08.

is when they get onto the cricket pitches, the football pitches...

:27:09.:27:15.

So, just if I can go round - I mean, if I can ask you, sort of,

:27:16.:27:21.

leave them alone, fewer or none at all, what would you say?

:27:22.:27:24.

Get rid of them. LAUGHTER

:27:25.:27:31.

'It seems the boar are making rather a meal of this comeback.'

:27:32.:27:36.

Some locals are so annoyed they've taken the law into their own hands,

:27:37.:27:40.

and there are reports of attacks with crossbows and air guns -

:27:41.:27:44.

and Gloucestershire Police say they get a call

:27:45.:27:47.

about illegal boar hunting most weeks.

:27:48.:27:50.

But there is an official way to control the boar population.

:27:51.:27:56.

Shooting boar - with the right gun and the landowner's permission -

:27:57.:28:00.

Felix Bihlmeier gets called in to do just that

:28:01.:28:05.

when wild boar stray out of the forest and onto farmland.

:28:06.:28:09.

I've come to private woodland on the edge of the Forest of Dean

:28:10.:28:12.

that the boar have come back to the British countryside?

:28:13.:28:18.

Er, well, I'm an old romantic - I think it's wonderful.

:28:19.:28:21.

Us hunters like pursuing it, it's a very old tradition,

:28:22.:28:29.

however, boar and man will create conflict,

:28:30.:28:39.

It's a prolific breeder, and the breeding time bomb is ticking.

:28:40.:28:47.

This point you make about - you welcome them,

:28:48.:28:49.

but they need to be managed - do you think that need to manage

:28:50.:28:52.

the species applies to other things people are thinking

:28:53.:28:54.

of reintroducing, I don't know, like, lynx or wolf or beaver,

:28:55.:28:58.

but then you probably need compensation schemes

:28:59.:29:05.

for livestock that is going to get killed, et cetera, et cetera.

:29:06.:29:09.

With the necessary amount of public protection, it can be done.

:29:10.:29:13.

You can't just introduce them and sort of forget about it,

:29:14.:29:16.

and hope that everything will rub along OK?

:29:17.:29:18.

Er, it won't. You will end up with a huge problem.

:29:19.:29:22.

'The body trying to prevent that kind of problem with the boar

:29:23.:29:25.

'is the Forestry Commission, which owns most the woodland here,

:29:26.:29:29.

'and culls increasing numbers of them every year.'

:29:30.:29:32.

They want to limit the population to under 400 -

:29:33.:29:35.

the trouble is, the fast-breeding boar keep producing more young

:29:36.:29:39.

but they say the population went up by 200.

:29:40.:29:48.

think that cull may not be needed at all.

:29:49.:29:53.

with photographer and boar-lover David Slater.

:29:54.:29:57.

but it seems that the problem is with a minority of residents here,

:29:58.:30:05.

who, for one reason or another, don't like the mess they cause.

:30:06.:30:10.

So, for you, no need for a cull in the forest?

:30:11.:30:13.

No, I think that the core area should be left alone as,

:30:14.:30:16.

like, a preserve for the wild boar to become natural,

:30:17.:30:20.

and natural behaviour, and marksmen should be brought in

:30:21.:30:22.

on high chairs to shoot them once they've left the forest.

:30:23.:30:26.

Right, so, within the forest, a sanctuary - but beyond there,

:30:27.:30:29.

if they're causing problems on farmland, you can cull them?

:30:30.:30:32.

Oh, yeah, yeah - I think most of the public here do support the boar.

:30:33.:30:36.

They find it a thrill to go out in the forest, now.

:30:37.:30:39.

Previous to that, it was just deer and foxes which you already saw,

:30:40.:30:43.

and your day in the forest was a bit drab, actually.

:30:44.:30:46.

Now there's something actually to go out and find.

:30:47.:30:49.

The possibility of meeting a 200 kilo wild boar

:30:50.:30:53.

certainly adds a frisson to a walk in the woods.

:30:54.:30:57.

But will the reaction be "welcome back" or "watch out"?

:30:58.:31:01.

Reinstating native species is generally welcomed

:31:02.:31:05.

as evidence of us redressing the balance with nature and wilderness -

:31:06.:31:10.

and preventing that spiralling into undue suffering -

:31:11.:31:17.

for us or, in this case, the boar - requires management and tolerance.

:31:18.:31:27.

The story back here in the Peak District

:31:28.:31:30.

is one of rock, and time, and the actions of elements.

:31:31.:31:37.

to take fantastic limestone formations like these for granted,

:31:38.:31:42.

but this view - well, it's just a moment in time

:31:43.:31:47.

which has taken 350 million years to get here.

:31:48.:31:53.

But how can something as simple as rain on rock cause

:31:54.:31:56.

Pete, my geologist guide to the Peak District,

:31:57.:32:02.

has a simple experiment to show how this happens.

:32:03.:32:06.

and you can see limestone, as we've said,

:32:07.:32:11.

..and the shells are also calcium carbonate.

:32:12.:32:15.

is you can see these joints in here - that's very, very important.

:32:16.:32:20.

Right, so, we'll get the goggle down for this bit... Yes.

:32:21.:32:22.

..and pick up this bottle of hydrochloric acid.

:32:23.:32:25.

Indeed - this is dilute hydrochloric acid,

:32:26.:32:27.

and I'm going to pour it on the limestone here,

:32:28.:32:29.

and I want you to see what happens. OK.

:32:30.:32:32.

Oh, there's a definite reaction there, then - it's fizzing.

:32:33.:32:36.

It's fizzing - and what's coming off there is carbon dioxide gas...

:32:37.:32:40.

Mm-hm. ..and this is what happens to limestone.

:32:41.:32:42.

Limestone, when you put acid on it, it will effervesce,

:32:43.:32:45.

it will fizz - and this is weathering.

:32:46.:32:48.

Of course, it's rain - rain, also, is slightly acidic,

:32:49.:32:51.

it starts to weather away the limestone.

:32:52.:32:55.

You also notice it's going down the cracks, here,

:32:56.:32:58.

and the joints on the rock, and, of course,

:32:59.:33:00.

this limestone is very, very jointed,

:33:01.:33:02.

and so what's happening is, as the water goes down,

:33:03.:33:05.

it weathers away the rock and erodes away the rock,

:33:06.:33:10.

and this is why we have such fabulous caves

:33:11.:33:13.

right beneath us here in the Peak District. Yeah!

:33:14.:33:15.

I am going to be going and having a look at.

:33:16.:33:19.

from looking back 350 million years into the past,

:33:20.:33:26.

to looking forward to 365 days in the very near future.

:33:27.:33:29.

If you haven't got your hands on the Countryfile calendar for 2016 yet,

:33:30.:33:33.

It costs ?9.50, including free UK delivery -

:33:34.:33:39.

will be donated to the BBC Children in Need appeal.

:33:40.:33:45.

You can buy yours either via our website, at...

:33:46.:33:51.

To order by post, send your name, address and cheque to...

:33:52.:34:12.

..and please make cheques payable to BBC Countryfile Calendar.

:34:13.:34:22.

The British countryside is forever changing,

:34:23.:34:24.

moulded by the force of nature and by farming -

:34:25.:34:28.

but the land needs to be worked to provide us with food.

:34:29.:34:32.

It's something Adam knows only too well.

:34:33.:34:40.

There's one machine that's not only shaped our landscape

:34:41.:34:43.

more than any other, but also changed the future of agriculture.

:34:44.:34:47.

As a kid, I had a fascination with tractors -

:34:48.:35:02.

and why wouldn't I, growing up on a farm?

:35:03.:35:04.

And it was always on the top of my Christmas wish list

:35:05.:35:07.

to have a toy tractor just like this one.

:35:08.:35:14.

But as I got older, it was out with the toys

:35:15.:35:16.

I've owned about 20 different tractors over the years,

:35:17.:35:21.

and, like many farmers, I couldn't live without one.

:35:22.:35:24.

Tractors might have all the mod cons these days,

:35:25.:35:27.

but the latest technology isn't for everyone.

:35:28.:35:30.

Patrick Edwards from Little Clanfield in Oxfordshire

:35:31.:35:34.

has, well, just a slight obsession with vintage tractors.

:35:35.:35:40.

My word, what a beautiful traction engine. Thank you very much.

:35:41.:35:45.

It's built in 1899 - Charles Burrell and Sons.

:35:46.:35:50.

It's a seven-horse single traction engine

:35:51.:35:52.

which would have been used for agricultural work.

:35:53.:35:55.

hearing it chuntering away in the background? Yeah, yeah.

:35:56.:36:00.

How long does it take to get it going, then?

:36:01.:36:02.

From pulling out a shed, you're about three,

:36:03.:36:04.

four hours before you can go to work. Oh, goodness me!

:36:05.:36:07.

Most farmers would have turned the key and done half the farm by then!

:36:08.:36:10.

That's right. That's right, yeah, yeah.

:36:11.:36:12.

So, big effort. Shall we take her for a spin? Yes, no problem.

:36:13.:36:17.

HE LAUGHS Always wear your hat, do you?

:36:18.:36:20.

Always wear my bowler hat when I'm on the engine.

:36:21.:36:22.

Hang on, I'm on the steering wheel - does that matter? That's fine.

:36:23.:36:27.

Oh, this is exciting - it's a first for me!

:36:28.:36:29.

And when these things first appeared on the roads,

:36:30.:36:36.

it must have been an amazing scene. Well, it must have been -

:36:37.:36:38.

because obviously the transport then, in 1899,

:36:39.:36:43.

A horse could plough an acre of ground in a day,

:36:44.:36:46.

and, you know, ploughing engines could probably plough

:36:47.:36:50.

Wow, so it really was a step in mechanisation. It was.

:36:51.:36:57.

And you've got quite a collection of old tractors, haven't you?

:36:58.:37:01.

if you'd like me to show you round an old tractor or two,

:37:02.:37:05.

I can do that, that's no problem. Yeah, I'd love to do that.

:37:06.:37:08.

I'm just thankful I didn't bring my chequebook.

:37:09.:37:10.

LAUGHS: My word, Patrick! How come you've got so many?

:37:11.:37:18.

Well, it started as a hobby 35 years ago,

:37:19.:37:22.

and then we started buying and selling tractors,

:37:23.:37:25.

and it became a business which we're running today.

:37:26.:37:29.

Some lovely classics - a little Fergie, there.

:37:30.:37:32.

Yeah, the little grey and gold 35, yeah - it's a classic.

:37:33.:37:34.

I worked away on Chatsworth Estate for a year,

:37:35.:37:39.

and that was my tractor, a 135. Was it? Incredible, yeah. Yeah.

:37:40.:37:42.

I was very proud to be driving it at the time.

:37:43.:37:44.

Lots of people learn on a little 135.

:37:45.:37:47.

I've got an old standard Fordson, which was my first tractor,

:37:48.:37:51.

which was my hobby, and that was when I was 14,

:37:52.:37:55.

so I can show you that, if you like. Still got it?! Still got it!

:37:56.:37:57.

So, this is your first tractor - it's lovely, Patrick.

:37:58.:38:06.

Yeah, this is it. Why did you go for a Fordson?

:38:07.:38:09.

Well, as a seven-year-old, I came over to your farm,

:38:10.:38:11.

and your dad let me sit on his old standard Fordson.

:38:12.:38:15.

You probably didn't know that. No! No, what a connection!

:38:16.:38:18.

And that inspired me to want a Fordson -

:38:19.:38:20.

and when I was 14, I bought this tractor, and restored it, and...

:38:21.:38:24.

OK, shall we start her up? We can try!

:38:25.:38:26.

Yeah. I'll turn the handle, shall I? I'll do the controls, here.

:38:27.:38:31.

where's the satellite guidance, has it got any of that?

:38:32.:39:11.

I'm afraid it hasn't got any of that!

:39:12.:39:14.

Oh, it's just beautiful. Really lovely.

:39:15.:39:22.

Today's tractors offer a whole new level of technology,

:39:23.:39:26.

which even as a farmer, I'm struggling to keep up with.

:39:27.:39:29.

I'm visiting the largest tractor factory in the UK.

:39:30.:39:32.

This site in Basildon, Essex, has more than a mile of assembly line.

:39:33.:39:36.

It's staggering to think a brand-new tractor

:39:37.:39:39.

rolls off the production line every four minutes.

:39:40.:39:42.

From here, the machines are shipped all over the world.

:39:43.:39:46.

Plant manager Bob Shirley is on hand to tell me more.

:39:47.:39:50.

This is incredible, Bob. What's going on here, then?

:39:51.:39:53.

The transmissions and the axles start over here,

:39:54.:39:58.

we then put them onto the auto-guided vehicles,

:39:59.:40:01.

they take them, then, into sequence in this production process,

:40:02.:40:03.

They then go to the beginning of the production line.

:40:04.:40:08.

then it joins onto a continuous process for the next 2.5km.

:40:09.:40:18.

It's a full-on production line, isn't it? Absolutely, for sure.

:40:19.:40:21.

And this is one element where we need the people content

:40:22.:40:23.

This is where we now marry the cab to the chassis,

:40:24.:40:27.

and it's very much a teamwork effort.

:40:28.:40:29.

There's four people in four corners of the cab,

:40:30.:40:32.

drop it down onto the chassis in a safe way.

:40:33.:40:37.

It's really lovely - it's when the tractor sort of comes altogether

:40:38.:40:40.

Next, the tractors are tested on a dynamic rolling road -

:40:41.:40:46.

and I've been given the chance to put this one through its paces.

:40:47.:40:51.

The electronics on these modern machines are just incredible.

:40:52.:41:01.

All done through a hi-tech computer on board.

:41:02.:41:07.

Gone are the days if you could drink cider and use a scythe,

:41:08.:41:11.

farming was for you - you've got to be a techno-wizard nowadays.

:41:12.:41:19.

These modern day tractors are designed for operator comfort -

:41:20.:41:29.

but, also, the technology on here is just unbelievable.

:41:30.:41:33.

Everything's at your hand - touch screen,

:41:34.:41:36.

all on a joystick, press buttons to go up and down through the gears,

:41:37.:41:40.

and the engine is working out its optimum capacity

:41:41.:41:43.

for fuel consumption and torque and drive - just amazing.

:41:44.:41:52.

That was a lot of fun, driving that tractor on the rolling road -

:41:53.:41:55.

and it really brings home to me how much technology's on these tractors.

:41:56.:41:59.

I mean, it's like being in a helicopter or a jet.

:42:00.:42:01.

and how long before we don't need drivers any more?

:42:02.:42:05.

but certainly we're going in that direction -

:42:06.:42:08.

the same as we are in the auto world.

:42:09.:42:09.

But clearly we've got auto guidance within the tractor,

:42:10.:42:12.

we're going to precision farming, where we can actually...

:42:13.:42:15.

You can put the tractor within one or two centimetres,

:42:16.:42:17.

year on year, in exactly the same position in the field.

:42:18.:42:21.

And what sort of cost are we talking about?

:42:22.:42:23.

Again, the T7 range, which is one of the larger tractors here, that range

:42:24.:42:27.

is between ?150-180,000, so the price of a very expensive Ferrari.

:42:28.:42:32.

Depends on whether you want to earn money or not, for sure!

:42:33.:42:39.

Well, I might not get to take home a brand-new tractor,

:42:40.:42:42.

but I have been given the opportunity to drive

:42:43.:42:44.

the latest model off the end of the production line.

:42:45.:42:56.

it's just brilliant the way these machines have evolved -

:42:57.:43:00.

and who knows where they're going to be in the next 20 or 30 years?

:43:01.:43:04.

I think the future for agriculture is really exciting.

:43:05.:43:07.

While I'm in it, I wonder if anybody will notice

:43:08.:43:10.

ELLIE: The Peak District in winter can be an unforgiving place.

:43:11.:43:39.

The wind howls, it's damp, it's dark.

:43:40.:43:43.

The feeble sun, shrouded in cloud, provides little warmth.

:43:44.:43:50.

and I'm heading up onto the second highest peak in the area -

:43:51.:43:56.

This is Bleaklow, and it's easy to see how it gets its name.

:43:57.:44:04.

It's a plateau of peat bogs and open, exposed moorland,

:44:05.:44:07.

and at this time of year, it's windy, cold and undeniably bleak.

:44:08.:44:14.

To make your home up here, you'd have to be as hardy as they come -

:44:15.:44:18.

and this is its last outpost in England.

:44:19.:44:30.

An animal that, at this time of year,

:44:31.:44:34.

undergoes an amazing transformation.

:44:35.:44:38.

and, I really hope, to help me spot one -

:44:39.:44:43.

They're well adapted to this tough place, aren't they?

:44:44.:44:48.

They are - they're small, and they look cuddly,

:44:49.:44:51.

but they're extremely tough little animals.

:44:52.:44:53.

for thousands and thousands of years.

:44:54.:44:56.

They were here following the last ice age -

:44:57.:44:59.

brown hares were introduced much more recently by people,

:45:00.:45:02.

but the mountain hares are able to survive in the upland,

:45:03.:45:07.

where brown hares really don't do so well.

:45:08.:45:09.

And this time of year they're going through this moulting process.

:45:10.:45:12.

One of the really interesting things with mountain hares,

:45:13.:45:15.

and it's something we don't really see

:45:16.:45:17.

is that they change from the summer coat,

:45:18.:45:21.

which is a sort of dull brown, to white,

:45:22.:45:23.

and it happens about this time of year,

:45:24.:45:26.

through the winter, and then they start to change back in March.

:45:27.:45:32.

Their thick coat and small ears help stop heat loss.

:45:33.:45:35.

Big back feet make walking on snow easier,

:45:36.:45:39.

and that white coat makes them almost impossible to spot

:45:40.:45:42.

and even though there's no snow on the ground today,

:45:43.:45:48.

Phil reckons we'll be lucky to see one.

:45:49.:45:52.

Their Latin name - I'm going to ask you to pronounce it.

:45:53.:45:54.

Lepus timidus. "Timidus" - is that the clue that sort of tells us

:45:55.:45:58.

that it's not going to be an easy day finding them?

:45:59.:46:01.

I think that's probably a decent hint, yeah - they like to sit tight,

:46:02.:46:05.

and quite often you come across them when you're walking across the moor,

:46:06.:46:08.

and they'll jump up from underneath your feet.

:46:09.:46:17.

but with the weather closing in, the chances are slim.

:46:18.:46:24.

God, I can't believe our binoculars picked that up, even!

:46:25.:46:35.

Agh, disappointing! Little bit embarrassing, as well.

:46:36.:46:37.

That must happen a lot, though. It does, yeah.

:46:38.:46:41.

There's lots of things that look a little bit like a hare

:46:42.:46:44.

Oh, sneaky. Let's keep looking. All right, let's keep looking.

:46:45.:46:51.

And just when we're about to give up,

:46:52.:46:54.

a flash of white from right under my feet.

:46:55.:46:57.

Within moments, it's gone - a blur in the distance.

:46:58.:47:07.

So, that's absolutely typical of the way that you'd see most hares.

:47:08.:47:20.

But the hares here could be under threat.

:47:21.:47:24.

A changing climate might affect their habitat.

:47:25.:47:28.

The moorland here is part of a huge conservation project

:47:29.:47:31.

to restore peat bogs and the uplands the hares love.

:47:32.:47:35.

Sarah Proctor from Moors For The Future

:47:36.:47:37.

How are you doing, you all right? Yeah, good, thank you.

:47:38.:47:42.

Tell me about your community science project.

:47:43.:47:44.

So, the community science project is encouraging people,

:47:45.:47:47.

in the Peak District and South Pennines,

:47:48.:47:51.

to tell us when and where they see mountain hares,

:47:52.:47:54.

So, we're looking for them to tell us when they've seen them,

:47:55.:48:00.

where they've seen them, how many of each animal,

:48:01.:48:03.

and, for the mountain hares, we want to know what colour they are -

:48:04.:48:06.

because mountain hares turn white in winter.

:48:07.:48:09.

is whether or not there was snow on the ground when you've seen them,

:48:10.:48:13.

because that's quite an important thing to know, as well.

:48:14.:48:16.

What is the trigger for them moulting and changing colour?

:48:17.:48:19.

We think it's day length, which means that in future,

:48:20.:48:23.

if we continue to see a change in climate,

:48:24.:48:27.

will we see a change in the mountain hares?

:48:28.:48:29.

If they're bright white in winter and there's no snow... Yeah.

:48:30.:48:32.

..then they're quite vulnerable to predation.

:48:33.:48:35.

Much easier for predators to pick them off, then.

:48:36.:48:37.

Much easier for predators to pick them off, yes.

:48:38.:48:41.

It's a bitter irony that the very adaptations

:48:42.:48:43.

that help these hares survive in these harsh surroundings

:48:44.:48:46.

could threaten their existence if the climate were to change.

:48:47.:48:50.

I'm happy to do my bit and record my sighting.

:48:51.:48:54.

So, I've seen one... Great! ..and it was very much...

:48:55.:48:56.

Well, it wasn't fully white, but it was as good as,

:48:57.:48:59.

so I'm going to stick that down as an A.

:49:00.:49:01.

And then...no snow. Great. Just a lot of rain. Brilliant.

:49:02.:49:04.

I'll take this with me, in case I see any more. Great, wonderful.

:49:05.:49:07.

All right, cheers! See you later. All right, bye!

:49:08.:49:11.

Though we continued searching until the sun was low in the sky,

:49:12.:49:15.

which makes even the fleeting glimpse I had all the more special.

:49:16.:49:23.

Let's hope there'll be hares here for many more years to come.

:49:24.:49:32.

It's not very often I find myself wishing for bad weather,

:49:33.:49:35.

but if it helps these amazing animals,

:49:36.:49:37.

I'm willing to put up with some colder days ahead.

:49:38.:49:40.

To find out what nature has in store for the rest of us this week,

:49:41.:49:43.

here's the Countryfile five-day forecast.

:49:44.:49:56.

We have colder air across Scotland at the moment and snowfall to come

:49:57.:50:01.

tonight but the forecast this week is one again which is out of step

:50:02.:50:04.

with the season. Unusually mild weather at times throughout the

:50:05.:50:09.

week, breezy too. But with the depepgs of south-west England and

:50:10.:50:12.

parts of Wales, not as wet as it has been. -- but with the exception. You

:50:13.:50:18.

saw Adam in Cumbria earlier. The exceptional rainfall and floods.

:50:19.:50:24.

Let's put it into context. Since 1st November we have seen 90 cms of rain

:50:25.:50:30.

in Shap, representing six months of rainfall in six weeks. And after

:50:31.:50:37.

last weekend you can understand the extent of the flooding.

:50:38.:50:41.

This is all being fired by a strong jet stream. Unusually mild

:50:42.:50:44.

conditions, both combined to make things wet. The jet stream is weaker

:50:45.:50:48.

but there is mild air with us, pushing northwards behind the

:50:49.:50:51.

weather front, hitting the cold air now across Scotland and through

:50:52.:50:59.

tonight across parts of the southern Highlands. Further south

:51:00.:51:01.

temperatures continue to rise through the night. Most away from

:51:02.:51:05.

that part of Scotland will be frost-free but a grey, murky start

:51:06.:51:11.

to Monday for many. Patchy rain and drizzle around, he extensive mist

:51:12.:51:16.

and hill fog. The damp weather through the central strip fades

:51:17.:51:21.

away. Through the latter stages of the morning and afternoon,

:51:22.:51:23.

south-west England and Wales will see outbreaks of rain on a

:51:24.:51:27.

strengthening breeze. Those areas hit by the floods a dry day in

:51:28.:51:32.

prospect and temperatures by the afternoon, 5-12. Through Monday

:51:33.:51:36.

night, bouts of rain pushing northwards and generally fizzling

:51:37.:51:39.

out. Not a strong enough jet stream to push the areas of low pressure

:51:40.:51:43.

which are lingering to the west at the moment. Because they are staying

:51:44.:51:46.

there, we are stuck with a south to south-easterly flow much that's

:51:47.:51:50.

important for parts of western Scotland, Northern Ireland,

:51:51.:51:52.

north-west England and north-west Wales, affording a bit of shelter

:51:53.:51:55.

from the rain. There won't be too much rain for many on Tuesday. Damp

:51:56.:51:59.

and drizzly for many to begin. Lots of cloud around. Brighter breaks in

:52:00.:52:04.

the north-western corner of the UK but later in the day, more rain to

:52:05.:52:07.

parts of south-west England and Wales. This time strengthening

:52:08.:52:14.

winds. All linked into a push of low pressure across England and Wales,

:52:15.:52:16.

and particular into the night on Wednesday. The winds easing down but

:52:17.:52:20.

a wet and windy start it the day on Wednesday. South-easterly winds mean

:52:21.:52:25.

it'll be east of the Pennines seeing highest rainfall totals. Given the

:52:26.:52:28.

fact the ground is saturated and river levels high, we have to

:52:29.:52:31.

monitor things closely. Temperatures above where they should be for the

:52:32.:52:35.

time of year. They'll rise further through Wednesday night into

:52:36.:52:37.

Thursday. Low pressure pushing towards Iceland and we drag in wibds

:52:38.:52:41.

all the way from the south. -- winds.

:52:42.:52:44.

Through the night, temperatures may not dip below the mid-teens in some

:52:45.:52:48.

parts. Only lifting a bit throughout the day. A cold front pushing

:52:49.:52:53.

eastwards. A shift on and not too much in the way of rainfall but any

:52:54.:52:57.

wave on that delaying its progress could push things over the edge so

:52:58.:53:01.

minor flooding could be possible. It turns quieter for a time through

:53:02.:53:05.

Thursday night into Friday. A ridge of high pressure moves N enough of a

:53:06.:53:08.

breeze. Breezy conditions to stop mist and fog in the morning. A

:53:09.:53:11.

little bit of sunshine around, perhaps one of the brighter of the

:53:12.:53:16.

days before more wet and windy weather towards the west. In Friday,

:53:17.:53:19.

active jet stream I'm in the White Peak of Derbyshire -

:53:20.:53:32.

limestone country. Earlier, I saw how the actions

:53:33.:53:37.

of time and the weather have carved out

:53:38.:53:40.

this landscape, but these forces

:53:41.:53:43.

didn't just shape the scenery, they shaped the lives of the people

:53:44.:53:46.

here and their industry. Now, below my feet

:53:47.:53:52.

are tunnels and caverns They're rich in minerals,

:53:53.:53:55.

glittering in the darkness. In the 18th century,

:53:56.:54:07.

men ventured deep into the earth to extract metal ores

:54:08.:54:10.

from under these hills. Here, near Castleton,

:54:11.:54:17.

the prize they were after was lead. 'John Harrison looks after

:54:18.:54:22.

Speedwell Cavern, a former lead mine, 'where miners went to extraordinary

:54:23.:54:30.

lengths to raid the earth.' I thought we'd have to do

:54:31.:54:34.

quite a bit of crawling. Watch your head, cos it's very low

:54:35.:54:40.

and very uneven. Hence the hard hat. Is that a hard cap you've got on

:54:41.:54:44.

there? It is. Oh, right, yeah. So, all this, then,

:54:45.:54:53.

that's above our heads, so they used black powder,

:54:54.:54:56.

pickaxes and chisels and it's 400 metres long,

:54:57.:55:03.

took five years to blast through. You can see all the pick marks,

:55:04.:55:09.

can't you? You can, yeah. you can see the grooves

:55:10.:55:12.

from the blast holes. This tunnel was driven

:55:13.:55:21.

to hit a specific point, where they could then use the

:55:22.:55:24.

rivers, the water from the rivers, to flood the tunnels and bring

:55:25.:55:27.

the lead out by boat. Yeah. as you're clanking your way through

:55:28.:55:32.

it to get to the point? And you think that they were just,

:55:33.:55:37.

you know, A very unpleasant place to work.

:55:38.:55:39.

Yes. Only four men

:55:40.:55:43.

worked on a shift down here and they did that with the aid

:55:44.:55:46.

of a young lad from the age of about seven,

:55:47.:55:48.

who was known as the bellows boy, and he would sit

:55:49.:55:51.

in a little alcove down here, pumping a pair of blacksmith's

:55:52.:55:54.

bellows, to circulate to help the men breathe

:55:55.:55:57.

and work all day. 'Finally, there really is

:55:58.:56:03.

a light at the end of the tunnel.' Right, so here we go.

:56:04.:56:11.

If you follow me off, Matt. Yeah. John, it's the final destination,

:56:12.:56:15.

then, of these miners? This is it - formed on one of these

:56:16.:56:25.

east-west running faultlines It's these faultlines that have

:56:26.:56:30.

filled up with the minerals, such as lead, sphalerite, fluorspar,

:56:31.:56:36.

calcite. And I can see... Is that a ladder, then? That's

:56:37.:56:41.

a ladder working all the way up, so the miners have followed

:56:42.:56:44.

the vein up the side of the wall. That is galena, lead sulphide,

:56:45.:56:49.

from this mine. These subterranean chambers

:56:50.:57:01.

still draw people deep underground, but, these days, you're more likely

:57:02.:57:05.

to see tourists than lead miners... ..and they come to see this -

:57:06.:57:12.

fluorspar. Right, where do you want me

:57:13.:57:18.

to start, then, John? 'Normally it glistens like a jewel,

:57:19.:57:20.

so when the crowds have gone, Quite beautiful, isn't it,

:57:21.:57:24.

when you see it close up? It really is, close up. You can see

:57:25.:57:29.

little lines of lead crystals running through it and all sorts.

:57:30.:57:32.

Yeah. Slowly come down the vein now

:57:33.:57:34.

and rinse all that dirty water off. Job's done, I think.

:57:35.:57:42.

You've done a cracking job. You've got to know when to stop.

:57:43.:57:44.

This is... You've got to know

:57:45.:57:49.

when to put that down. Oh, no, you just... Hey, you get

:57:50.:57:51.

yourself back down that tunnel. Go and get me a cup of tea,

:57:52.:57:56.

I'll be quite happy. It will be cold by the time

:57:57.:57:59.

you get out. Come on. Well, it might be a jet wash

:58:00.:58:01.

instead of a pickaxe, but when working underground,

:58:02.:58:05.

it's easy to imagine the people who lived their lives in the shadow

:58:06.:58:08.

of the mighty White Peak. I could quite happily stay down here

:58:09.:58:13.

jet washing for a while, so I'm going to say

:58:14.:58:16.

goodbye from here. Listen, that's all we've got

:58:17.:58:18.

time for from the White Peak. Next week, we're going to

:58:19.:58:21.

be in Cornwall in a place where they celebrate Christmas

:58:22.:58:24.

in a big way. We'll be helping get the tiny

:58:25.:58:27.

fishing village of Coverack Hope you'll join us

:58:28.:58:31.

for a real Christmas treat.

:58:32.:58:36.

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