Tyne and Wear Countryfile


Tyne and Wear

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This is Tyne Wear, a proud landscape with a rich history.

:00:33.:00:40.

'There is a surprising amount of green space.'

:00:41.:00:49.

'There is stunning secret coastline.'

:00:50.:00:57.

The light at the end of the tunnel. There we are.

:00:58.:01:00.

Also tonight, Tom will have the first part of a special report

:01:01.:01:05.

Are these dramatic scenes we have witnessed across the UK

:01:06.:01:13.

or likely to be the shape of things to come?

:01:14.:01:20.

'And Adam is looking at Suffolk's county breeds.'

:01:21.:01:23.

A land stitched together through the seams of its coal,

:01:24.:02:42.

mined for generations to power the region's shipyards and steelworks.

:02:43.:02:50.

This steep hill is actually man-made.

:02:51.:02:54.

It's a massive pile of waste, spoil from the pursuit of coal

:02:55.:03:00.

and what was once one of the largest working coal mines in the world.

:03:01.:03:06.

The pit closed more than 40 years ago and, in that time,

:03:07.:03:18.

Today, this former pit is a country park,

:03:19.:03:27.

What do you remember about life down there, Danny?

:03:28.:04:04.

Well, it was very dangerous, I suppose,

:04:05.:04:07.

you take it in your stride, you know.

:04:08.:04:13.

As the air travels through the workings,

:04:14.:04:15.

and people would be looking for the fitter

:04:16.:04:22.

and they didn't realise it was me because I would be in short pants,

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no shirt and just a pair of boots and that, you know,

:04:26.:04:29.

because it used to get that hot. It was so hot down there?

:04:30.:04:31.

So it can be very tricky, but, at times, good fun.

:04:32.:04:38.

By the time the Rising Sun closed in 1969,

:04:39.:04:43.

Tyneside had already lost most of its collieries.

:04:44.:04:46.

in the coffin of the North East's coal industry.

:04:47.:04:52.

What do you feel when you stand here now?

:04:53.:04:56.

so I get a bit sad on that system, like.

:04:57.:05:08.

It is, it's beautiful, I mean, even that view there.

:05:09.:05:15.

Today, the Rising Sun Country Park is one of the best places

:05:16.:05:23.

for wildfowl and wading birds on Tyneside,

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acres and acres of wetland making the perfect habitat for breeding.

:05:27.:05:31.

have flooded huge areas of the park and that's a problem.

:05:32.:05:37.

I mean, look at this, Matt, it's turned into a swamp. Goodness me!

:05:38.:05:40.

Is this unprecedented? Have you seen anything like this before?

:05:41.:05:43.

we've got members of the public that walk round here

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who have loved you for 40 years and they've said this is...

:05:48.:05:49.

they've seen nothing like this before. Right.

:05:50.:05:52.

'He is concerned the high water levels may affect breeding.'

:05:53.:05:59.

And a worry, then, as far as nesting birds are concerned, for you?

:06:00.:06:02.

Yeah, I mean, the water levels have got a lot deeper,

:06:03.:06:05.

so the types of birds that would live on here,

:06:06.:06:07.

it might be too deep for them to feed.

:06:08.:06:10.

I mean, also, we've got two nesting islands that are permanent ones,

:06:11.:06:14.

the black-headed gulls and Arctic terns nest on them,

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and they are under water now, non-existent.

:06:18.:06:27.

Now, of course, the torrential rain that we've been experiencing

:06:28.:06:30.

over the last few months has led to the flooding

:06:31.:06:32.

of thousands of homes and businesses,

:06:33.:06:34.

something that we're going to have to get used in the future?

:06:35.:06:39.

In the last decade, records for the amount of rain falling

:06:40.:06:53.

on our hills, fields and homes have been broken over and over again.

:06:54.:07:05.

People have been flooded out of their homes and businesses,

:07:06.:07:14.

from Aberdeen to York, from Belfast to Bangor,

:07:15.:07:18.

in the wettest December for a century.

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but early last December, it was wetter than ever.

:07:30.:07:36.

In one 24-hour period, more than a month's worth of rain fell

:07:37.:07:41.

and in that opening weekend of December,

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14 billion litres of water came into this reservoir

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and most of it went off down the River Derwent.

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All that, together with water from the rest of the catchment area,

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passed through here - the ancient market town of Cockermouth,

:07:59.:08:03.

built where the River Cocker joins the Derwent.

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Hi. Morning. You must be Sue.

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'Sue Cashmore lives not far from the river in Cockermouth.'

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Well, I'm greeted by that post-flood buzz I hear everywhere.

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This is the sound of Christmas, you know,

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because we always flood just before Christmas and this is the sound.

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Any chance you can just knock it off now? We can, there you go.

:08:29.:08:31.

I bet that's a relief, isn't it? It is, it's lovely!

:08:32.:08:33.

So, tell me, what was it like on the day as the waters came?

:08:34.:08:39.

We knew there was a potential for flood,

:08:40.:08:41.

but I didn't actually get a call till three o'clock

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and by that time, we saw the water heading down the road at us

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because it comes really quite fast, it moves at about 35mph to 40mph

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I think, within seconds, there was four feet of water in this house.

:08:53.:08:59.

The electricity went off, so I was stood there in the dark,

:09:00.:09:01.

with water coming in, so I had no choice but to grab the dog

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and ran upstairs and we were trapped.

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'Sue can't get insurance because she's been flooded before,

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'so unlike many people, she stayed in her home

:09:16.:09:18.

That is a hell of a depth. It's incredible to think, isn't it?

:09:19.:09:22.

Seven weeks ago, this house was full of water.

:09:23.:09:26.

And how did you feel about this, bearing in mind, of course,

:09:27.:09:29.

No, this is the fourth time, in this house, that this has flooded.

:09:30.:09:34.

We honestly thought we were going to be OK,

:09:35.:09:36.

we didn't think we would flood again.

:09:37.:09:37.

The fact that we flooded again makes you think,

:09:38.:09:39.

Some, of course, would argue that it always HAS happened.

:09:40.:09:47.

The first recorded flood in Cockermouth was back in 1761.

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Since then, like many places across the UK,

:09:52.:09:54.

often in clusters, with long gaps in between.

:09:55.:10:00.

So, is the exceptional rainfall and widespread flooding

:10:01.:10:04.

we've seen in recent years just part of a natural cycle

:10:05.:10:07.

'To help me answer that question, I'm meeting BBC weather forecaster

:10:08.:10:18.

'and friend of Countryfile John Hammond.'

:10:19.:10:21.

Welcome to my open air, rather wobbly, 3-D weather studio.

:10:22.:10:26.

Well, those BBC economies are really beginning to bite!

:10:27.:10:29.

So, how does this help us understand what happened this winter?

:10:30.:10:34.

One factor we think which was behind this event, this winter,

:10:35.:10:38.

was actually El Nino at the other side of the world,

:10:39.:10:41.

We know that that heating actually affects

:10:42.:10:45.

The jet stream meanders around the northern hemisphere,

:10:46.:10:50.

and it was those winds which brought up

:10:51.:10:53.

a lot of warm, moist air from the tropics

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and headed in our direction along this atmospheric river,

:10:57.:10:59.

generating a lot of cloud up through the Irish Sea

:11:00.:11:01.

and, as it hit the high ground, here in Cumbria,

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that air was forced to rise and if you lift moist air,

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it condenses and it cools and it produces colossal amounts of rain,

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over a metre of rain this December in parts of Cumbria.

:11:12.:11:14.

So, with climate change, are we likely to see

:11:15.:11:16.

and a challenge for climate scientists, but certainly we think

:11:17.:11:22.

that with a warmer planet, warm air can hold more moisture.

:11:23.:11:25.

In fact, if you raise the temperature by one degree,

:11:26.:11:27.

so these atmospheric rivers coming up towards us

:11:28.:11:32.

and these extreme winter rainfall events are likely, we think,

:11:33.:11:38.

with a warmer planet, to become more extreme.

:11:39.:11:41.

'But this kind of extreme weather is often described as

:11:42.:11:44.

'a 1-in-100-year event, so how come we're seeing it so regularly?'

:11:45.:11:51.

Statistically, you'd expect the six to come up every six throws,

:11:52.:12:00.

but it doesn't. It's a bit like the weather.

:12:01.:12:02.

You know, a 1-in-100-year event is a long-term average.

:12:03.:12:05.

The reality is that these events can crop up in quick succession

:12:06.:12:09.

What we do think is that with a warmer world, in a sense,

:12:10.:12:15.

those more extreme events happening more often.

:12:16.:12:21.

So, could these more-frequent flooding events be the new normal?

:12:22.:12:25.

That's the challenge for climate scientists.

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We think, with a warmer climate, the odds are shortening,

:12:28.:12:30.

but we don't know what they are shortening to yet

:12:31.:12:32.

So, it could become more often than 1 in 100,

:12:33.:12:36.

but we don't know what the new figure is?

:12:37.:12:38.

Yes, one in what? That's the challenge.

:12:39.:12:42.

'So, in a world of chaotic and unpredictable weather,

:12:43.:12:45.

'planning a strategy for flood prevention

:12:46.:12:47.

Having to base our policies on odds and guesswork

:12:48.:12:52.

may sound a little bit like gambling with people's homes,

:12:53.:12:57.

so what should we do to prepare ourselves

:12:58.:13:00.

our traditional defences are up to the job.

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ELLIE: 'I'm exploring the coastline near Sunderland,

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'at the mouth of the mighty River Wear.

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'Said to have been the shipbuilding capital of the world,

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'one of the busiest industrial ports in the country.'

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ships navigating these waters have been safely guided

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by one of the North East's most elegant landmarks -

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protecting the harbour entrance and guiding ships safely into port.

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But a century of battering from the North Sea takes its toll,

:14:08.:14:11.

and three years ago, Sunderland Council decided

:14:12.:14:14.

that this grand old lady needed a bit of TLC.

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and the lighthouse fell into disrepair.

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The interior was badly damaged by salt water.

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And the lamp house had corroded to the point of collapse.

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But three years on, the restoration is almost complete.

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'Ian Smithwhite has been managing the project.'

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There's only a few little bits left to do.

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The granite is looking really fantastic,

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you've got the fantastic alternating coloured bands of red

:14:51.:14:53.

and grey Aberdeen granite, that's been repointed,

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and we have a brand-new lantern and a brand-new foghorn,

:14:57.:15:00.

offering the safety to the port that it's always had

:15:01.:15:02.

The pier and lighthouse were designed and built

:15:03.:15:08.

One of his innovations was a giant crane nicknamed Goliath,

:15:09.:15:15.

used to lay the immense concrete blocks which make up

:15:16.:15:19.

the three quarters of a mile long pier.

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'And beneath its newly restored surface lies a secret.'

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Matthew! Hello! What are you doing down there? I'm waiting for you!

:15:30.:15:32.

Can I come in? Certainly can. All right.

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'This hidden tunnel stretches all the way to the lighthouse.'

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'Matthew Storey has been working on its restoration.'

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So, the tunnel was built into the pier to house these

:15:55.:16:02.

gas and water pipes that you can see.

:16:03.:16:04.

Once the pier had been built, the tunnel was then used

:16:05.:16:08.

by the lighthouse keeper to access the lighthouse in bad weather.

:16:09.:16:12.

it was just used a couple of weeks ago to get two men off the pier.

:16:13.:16:20.

What are the plans for the tunnel now?

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So, the idea is that we'll build a new entrance structure,

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so it's a bit easier to access from the shore side.

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And we'll be opening it up to the public

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and running guided tours through the tunnel and the lighthouse.

:16:32.:16:34.

At last! Here we are. I can taste fresh air from somewhere!

:16:35.:16:43.

Oh, yeah. The light at the end of the tunnel! Here we are.

:16:44.:16:47.

I'm pleased to see this. What's this, then?

:16:48.:16:50.

So, here we are in the basement of the lighthouse.

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And just up there is the lighthouse itself.

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There's only one way up, then! OK. Give you that...

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You need to be fit to be a lighthouse keeper!

:17:05.:17:07.

'All the main structural work has now been done.

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'Day-to-day upkeep of the lighthouse is the job

:17:14.:17:15.

'of the Roker Heritage Volunteer Group.

:17:16.:17:17.

Wow, this is looking amazing! What are you doing?

:17:18.:17:23.

I'm just carrying on an old tradition.

:17:24.:17:25.

My grandfather was the lighthouse keeper, he was here for a good

:17:26.:17:29.

many years, certainly, when we were children, this was our playground.

:17:30.:17:33.

We used to come down here in school holidays and one of our jobs

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was cleaning the windows and also polishing the handrails.

:17:37.:17:40.

So, you'll know your way around this place, you can show me around?

:17:41.:17:43.

Yes, yes. Shall we wander up? We'll polish as we go, shall we?

:17:44.:17:45.

This is my favourite room, it was the day room.

:17:46.:17:55.

We had a little desk here, the binoculars, telescope,

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we used to look out of the window, looking at the ships going by.

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All the gadgets on the day. That's right.

:18:04.:18:05.

Yes, the next floor, the next rooms do get smaller

:18:06.:18:09.

and the stairs get narrower as you wander up. OK.

:18:10.:18:19.

They've left it as it is here, just to show what it was originally like.

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And it shows what a battle there still is with the water,

:18:25.:18:27.

inside and out. That's right. Yes, the condensation.

:18:28.:18:29.

Shall we go on through? You follow me up to the next level.

:18:30.:18:37.

This is what it's all about! The light. Yes, this is the new light.

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It's a bit underwhelming in size, isn't it?

:18:42.:18:43.

It's certainly not as impressive as the original light used to be.

:18:44.:18:46.

When it was originally opened, the lights were the brightest

:18:47.:18:50.

in the world and had a distance of about 15 or so miles out to sea.

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Wow, that's impressive. Really magnificent. Incredible.

:18:55.:18:57.

But then, you get something like this now, which is really small...

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Does the job. ..and does exactly the same!

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It must mean quite a lot to you to be involved in this project.

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I can see we've got something to look forward to in the future.

:19:07.:19:15.

Roker Lighthouse was a beacon of safety for nearly a century.

:19:16.:19:18.

Now restored, its guiding light will keep

:19:19.:19:21.

Now, here is a welcome reminder of warmer days.

:19:22.:19:31.

Last summer, we asked some well-known faces, from athletes...

:19:32.:19:37.

Oh, it's quite refreshing after a while!

:19:38.:19:40.

..what part of our magnificent countryside was special to them.

:19:41.:19:57.

This week, we take to the mountains on the Isle of Skye

:19:58.:20:00.

MUSIC: Over The Hills And Far Away by Led Zeppelin

:20:01.:20:10.

to climb all of the Munros in Scotland.

:20:11.:20:21.

And the Munros are mountains above 3,000 feet, of which there are 282.

:20:22.:20:31.

I don't know why people who tick off mountains are known as baggers,

:20:32.:20:35.

Well, I'm not going to argue with it.

:20:36.:20:55.

for getting me into Munro bagging specifically,

:20:56.:21:03.

who I was familiar with from the quite edgy music programme The Tube,

:21:04.:21:10.

but I then saw hosting a show called The Munro Show,

:21:11.:21:14.

"You're supposed to be interviewing Morrissey."

:21:15.:21:23.

And then I remember, many, many years later,

:21:24.:21:26.

with my now wife, then girlfriend, driving through the Peak District

:21:27.:21:30.

and thinking, we need to go hill walking again.

:21:31.:21:35.

and as I remembered there's these things, the Munros,

:21:36.:21:38.

that you can tick off, and, being quite a nerdy sort,

:21:39.:21:41.

having that target, straightaway that was it,

:21:42.:21:44.

I knew what I wanted to do and that was any chance I could get, I was

:21:45.:21:48.

going to steal myself off up to Scotland and become a Munro bagger.

:21:49.:22:00.

I have had days where it's just been torrential rain

:22:01.:22:02.

and just mist, and you never see anything

:22:03.:22:05.

and it's just a joyless trudge up a steep

:22:06.:22:08.

and featureless hill to get to the top, and not see anything

:22:09.:22:11.

and walk straight back down and get back in the car.

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but tick off a mountain that you hadn't done before.

:22:17.:22:18.

And you'd go, what was the point of that?

:22:19.:22:22.

I don't know what the point of that is.

:22:23.:22:26.

I feel sometimes that the whole concept of Munro bagging

:22:27.:22:29.

is a cruel trick that the Scottish are playing on tourists,

:22:30.:22:33.

because 3,000 feet, the minimum height

:22:34.:22:34.

coincidentally seems to be the very height

:22:35.:22:40.

that Scottish cloud tends to just sit.

:22:41.:22:48.

because this is the home of the Cuillin Ridge, which is

:22:49.:22:55.

a chain of 11 Munros that represent the most extensive

:22:56.:23:01.

mountaineering challenge that the UK has.

:23:02.:23:05.

And in the middle of the Cuillin Ridge is Sgurr Dearg,

:23:06.:23:09.

also known as the Inaccessible Pinnacle, which is

:23:10.:23:12.

unique among all the Munros in that it's the only one that you

:23:13.:23:16.

need to rock climb, you need ropes to actually get to the top of it.

:23:17.:23:22.

So, it looms large in my mind as the one I'm worried about, basically.

:23:23.:23:29.

Because even though I love mountains,

:23:30.:23:32.

I'm not actually very good with heights.

:23:33.:23:58.

Er, it's a lot bigger than I've had it described, and, er,

:23:59.:24:19.

a little bit more frightening than I was expecting.

:24:20.:24:22.

I'm feeling a certain level of trepidation about the climb.

:24:23.:24:27.

I don't want to say frightened or scared,

:24:28.:24:30.

because that would make me sound like a coward. We're ready to go.

:24:31.:24:34.

If I touch you, does that count? Well done, Ed.

:24:35.:26:15.

Thanks for your help, Martin, appreciated!

:26:16.:26:17.

Pretty wild conditions. They were... Yeah.

:26:18.:26:21.

it was unpleasant for a good 60% of it, I think.

:26:22.:26:26.

that's certainly the most hard-fought Munro I've bagged.

:26:27.:26:36.

Another 206 to go! It's all plain sailing from here.

:26:37.:26:49.

Well, as exhilarating and exciting as that was, I am glad it's over.

:26:50.:26:56.

Er, there should be a little bit of self-discovery in every journey,

:26:57.:27:00.

and the main self-discovery from today is,

:27:01.:27:05.

I'm a hill walker, I'm not a rock climber or a mountaineer,

:27:06.:27:09.

I'm a hill walker and I'm glad that the rock climbing part

:27:10.:27:13.

of my Munro adventure is now done.

:27:14.:27:18.

Right, where did I leave me rucksack?

:27:19.:27:27.

Now, earlier we heard how we should expect more of the unexpected

:27:28.:27:31.

But if that's the case, can we continue to

:27:32.:27:36.

rely on traditional flood defences for protection?

:27:37.:27:39.

Floodwater as far as the eye can see.

:27:40.:27:57.

And predictions this might happen much more frequently in the future.

:27:58.:28:01.

This is the life for many across the UK this winter,

:28:02.:28:05.

especially in Cumbria, and not for the first time.

:28:06.:28:09.

Here in Cockermouth, they've suffered frequent floods,

:28:10.:28:13.

and the response, like elsewhere in the country, has been

:28:14.:28:16.

to build bigger, supposedly better defences.

:28:17.:28:23.

there have been three major flood defence schemes

:28:24.:28:28.

built in Cockermouth, each one upgrading and adding to the last.

:28:29.:28:32.

There are now walls, gates, glass panels, waterproof windows,

:28:33.:28:36.

and in pride of place, a state-of-the-art,

:28:37.:28:40.

self-raising barrier, the first of its kind in the UK.

:28:41.:28:44.

which had proved inadequate in the floods of 2009.

:28:45.:28:51.

Last December, the new defence faced its stiffest test.

:28:52.:28:56.

This self-raising barrier that I'm walking on came up to almost

:28:57.:29:00.

and actually prevented these houses immediately behind from flooding.

:29:01.:29:06.

But the water itself carried on down the river

:29:07.:29:10.

and those just downstream weren't so lucky.

:29:11.:29:15.

Sue Cashmore is giving me a tour of Cockermouth defences.

:29:16.:29:20.

And so what worked and what didn't here?

:29:21.:29:22.

I think all the defences worked to an extent.

:29:23.:29:25.

and less shops got hit and less houses on this side of the river.

:29:26.:29:32.

It gave us more time, maybe, and we haven't lost the town

:29:33.:29:38.

as much as we did in 2009, so we can't say that they failed.

:29:39.:29:41.

Did you think those new defences were going to do their job

:29:42.:29:46.

I don't think any of us thought we would get hit as badly

:29:47.:29:52.

Throughout November, the defences were tested several times

:29:53.:29:58.

and everybody kind of breathed a little sigh of relief thinking

:29:59.:30:02.

we were going to be OK, so I think that was more traumatising

:30:03.:30:05.

for people, because we didn't think we'd ever flood or see this again.

:30:06.:30:09.

But are there some places where you think more engineering

:30:10.:30:12.

could make a difference? Yeah, I think

:30:13.:30:13.

it definitely showed some weaknesses in the defences that they built.

:30:14.:30:17.

What do you think is the future for Cockermouth and places like it?

:30:18.:30:21.

I think it's quite worrying, actually.

:30:22.:30:22.

I think it's had a big impact on our economy again.

:30:23.:30:25.

A lot of the shops are closed, and that is what our economy

:30:26.:30:30.

is about, so that means that this town could die. Really?

:30:31.:30:34.

If we don't change things, we could lose this town.

:30:35.:30:39.

The government claims that this winter, one million properties

:30:40.:30:42.

that were at risk of flooding were protected,

:30:43.:30:45.

and that in the end, only 15,000 were flooded.

:30:46.:30:49.

Not only that, it says defensive measures allowed the victims

:30:50.:30:52.

more time to prepare or evacuate safely.

:30:53.:30:55.

Even so, we've seen flooding in cities like York, Leeds

:30:56.:30:59.

and Carlisle, and in numerous smaller towns

:31:00.:31:02.

and villages across the whole of the UK.

:31:03.:31:07.

All that despite spending more than ?3 billion on flood defences

:31:08.:31:12.

since 2005 in England alone, and it's estimated that by 2035,

:31:13.:31:19.

we could be spending ?1 billion a year

:31:20.:31:23.

So, given the problem is likely to get worse, not better,

:31:24.:31:30.

can we continue to defend ourselves town by town

:31:31.:31:33.

with more and more physical barriers?

:31:34.:31:36.

'I'm meeting Alison Baptiste from the Environment Agency to find out.'

:31:37.:31:41.

So, this is the river under the bridge that got

:31:42.:31:43.

It did, yeah, and you only have to look here, to the debris

:31:44.:31:47.

in the trees, as to see how high this river came up,

:31:48.:31:50.

you know, five times higher than it normally does.

:31:51.:31:54.

In places like Cockermouth, is the solution to build bigger,

:31:55.:31:59.

Well, whenever we look at trying to reduce flooding in communities,

:32:00.:32:05.

there's a technical basis about physically

:32:06.:32:08.

whether you can do it technically, but there's also the community and

:32:09.:32:11.

what it means for the culture of the community and the atmosphere there.

:32:12.:32:15.

In order to defend from the sort of levels that you see that

:32:16.:32:18.

we had here, there would be such significant defences here,

:32:19.:32:22.

it would just destroy the character of the town.

:32:23.:32:25.

if we are going to protect places like this,

:32:26.:32:29.

people have to maybe accept perhaps bigger, uglier defences.

:32:30.:32:34.

I've just walked down the high street in Cockermouth,

:32:35.:32:37.

and to see probably half the businesses back up and running,

:32:38.:32:39.

it's been really good to see that so quickly after the floods,

:32:40.:32:43.

so there is an element of understanding the environment

:32:44.:32:47.

that you live in, and whether you stop the flooding

:32:48.:32:49.

if you can or whether you make yourselves resilient to it,

:32:50.:32:52.

so what we're looking at is a whole range of... Really a fresh look.

:32:53.:32:57.

"Are the climate change assumptions right, are the modelling,

:32:58.:33:01.

"the approach that we take to that, is the investment right?

:33:02.:33:04.

"Our critical infrastructure, are we protecting that well enough?",

:33:05.:33:07.

and so that national review will look at, what can we do better

:33:08.:33:11.

so that we can better protect this country?

:33:12.:33:17.

Better protection of our country is of course what everyone wants.

:33:18.:33:21.

But in the face of more extreme weather,

:33:22.:33:23.

that's going to be a major challenge.

:33:24.:33:26.

With one in six properties already at risk of flooding

:33:27.:33:29.

it's perhaps not surprising that the authorities believe

:33:30.:33:35.

we can't rely on man-made flood barriers to keep us dry.

:33:36.:33:40.

Next week, I'll be looking at controversial proposals

:33:41.:33:43.

to use our natural landscape as a flood defence.

:33:44.:33:55.

Today, I'm in the Rising Sun Country Park on North Tyneside.

:33:56.:34:00.

It was once a coal mine, but this 400-acre site has been transformed

:34:01.:34:04.

into an oasis of green - a phoenix rising from the industrial past.

:34:05.:34:16.

The minute the pit closed in 1969, land reclamation began.

:34:17.:34:21.

By the mid '70s, 29,000 tress had been planted.

:34:22.:34:26.

But more than six decades of mining took a heavy toll.

:34:27.:34:29.

these trees are struggling to reach their full height.

:34:30.:34:38.

I mean, all the tress you see here were planted all at the same time.

:34:39.:34:42.

This Swedish whitebeam, a non-native species.

:34:43.:34:45.

As you can see, the diameter of it, it's hardly grown at all.

:34:46.:34:49.

Not what you'd expect from a tree in its forties.

:34:50.:34:52.

Chris, the park's land officer, is showing me

:34:53.:34:54.

So, we've got a bit of a casualty here,

:34:55.:34:58.

Chris, of the north-east winds, but it's exposed the soil

:34:59.:35:01.

to get a good view of what's going on underneath. Yeah.

:35:02.:35:05.

I mean, as you can see, really poor soil.

:35:06.:35:07.

Got a bit of brick there, bit of metal there that's surfaced.

:35:08.:35:10.

Things keep just popping up every now and again. Right.

:35:11.:35:15.

The site was originally planted with hardy North American trees,

:35:16.:35:19.

The kind of trees that could cope with poor growing conditions.

:35:20.:35:25.

For native trees to have a chance, the soil quality needs to improve.

:35:26.:35:32.

With the soil itself, are you just hoping that time's going to be

:35:33.:35:35.

your friend and it will just improve with age? Yeah.

:35:36.:35:38.

we're going to get all the likes of pine needles, leaves.

:35:39.:35:43.

As you can see, everything's starting to rot down. Yes.

:35:44.:35:46.

It's looking really good for the future.

:35:47.:35:49.

The soil quality is slowly improving,

:35:50.:35:52.

but Chris and his team of volunteers are giving nature a helping hand.

:35:53.:35:56.

Fallen trees are chipped and left to decompose on the woodland floor.

:35:57.:36:04.

That's it. At the top, yeah? Yeah, that's it, perfect.

:36:05.:36:06.

'Logs are piled up to create a habitat for creepy crawlies,

:36:07.:36:13.

It's just turned into a five-star home, this one.

:36:14.:36:23.

brings with it some very particular problems.

:36:24.:36:27.

You've got a lot of people living around the outskirts of this wood.

:36:28.:36:30.

Do you find that people come here and help themselves to firewood?

:36:31.:36:33.

Yeah. The wood definitely disappears. Fairies come and get it.

:36:34.:36:38.

We need to put this wire on, cos if we just left this as it is,

:36:39.:36:42.

it'll not be there in a few weeks' time,

:36:43.:36:44.

it'll be moved about by people, so we'll wire it all up

:36:45.:36:47.

and then it will be there for years to come for the wildlife to live in.

:36:48.:36:52.

but they don't realise that it is quite a precious habitat,

:36:53.:36:56.

this, so they just come and, you know, help themselves...

:36:57.:37:00.

..just not knowing, really. Not knowing. There could be

:37:01.:37:03.

a bird's nest in there if it's the spring, wrens and... Yeah.

:37:04.:37:06.

..robins like to get in places like that. Mm-hm.

:37:07.:37:08.

As you can see from the rest of the wood, it's quite bare,

:37:09.:37:11.

so that's perfect nesting opportunity for something.

:37:12.:37:13.

Over the centuries, our native breeds have adapted to survive.

:37:14.:37:36.

these diverse landscapes have helped define the animals that live here.

:37:37.:37:51.

And every county has its own specific breeds.

:37:52.:37:55.

Adam's in Suffolk finding out some of the region's livestock.

:37:56.:38:05.

This is the proud birthplace of many wonderful breeds...

:38:06.:38:10.

..and each has its own story to tell.

:38:11.:38:14.

I'm starting with the magnificent Suffolk Punch.

:38:15.:38:17.

These horses worked and shaped this rural landscape

:38:18.:38:23.

But now, they need all the help they can get.

:38:24.:38:26.

'Nigel Oakley from Chedburgh in Suffolk

:38:27.:38:30.

'provides a safe haven for these horses.'

:38:31.:38:33.

Nigel, hi! Good to see you again. Yeah, and you.

:38:34.:38:36.

He's lovely, isn't he? He's a delight, yeah. He's a lovely animal.

:38:37.:38:40.

A good example of a Suffolk Horse, in my opinion.

:38:41.:38:43.

And how many have you got now? We've got 16 on the farm.

:38:44.:38:47.

I've had Suffolk horses the best part of 40 years,

:38:48.:38:51.

but that's the colour for a Suffolk horse.

:38:52.:39:02.

It's a really beautiful colour, isn't it? Lovely colour. Lovely.

:39:03.:39:05.

I like my ginger on a horse. You're bound to say that!

:39:06.:39:07.

And the feather, the hair on the feet that the shire has,

:39:08.:39:11.

the Suffolk's quite clean, isn't it? No, it was bred purposely for that.

:39:12.:39:14.

That's a very relevant point, actually,

:39:15.:39:16.

because a lot of Suffolk is boulder clay, heavy clays,

:39:17.:39:19.

and obviously, if you're ploughing all day,

:39:20.:39:22.

you've got yourself a job at the end of the day washing all that out.

:39:23.:39:25.

So, these were bred with less feather in the fetlock joint.

:39:26.:39:30.

They're incredibly rare now, though, aren't they?

:39:31.:39:33.

Unfortunately on category one of the Rare Breeds... Critically rare.

:39:34.:39:36.

There are only something like about 500 registered Suffolk horses.

:39:37.:39:44.

How many foals were registered last year?

:39:45.:39:46.

The Suffolk Horse Society monitors the breed.

:39:47.:39:52.

Obviously, the economic climate has meant that some of the supporters

:39:53.:39:56.

so let's hope people give the society a little bit of an uplift.

:39:57.:40:03.

These horses shape the countryside, really,

:40:04.:40:06.

and they are the living heritage of Suffolk, and if we want

:40:07.:40:10.

our grandchildren to have the privilege of doing what we're doing

:40:11.:40:13.

then we must ensure it's here for perpetuity. Yeah.

:40:14.:40:26.

'Using a traditional Suffolk harness,

:40:27.:40:28.

'we pair an experienced horse with a novice for a spot of training,

:40:29.:40:32.

'and I've been given the reins of these magnificent beasts.'

:40:33.:40:36.

Walk on, then, boys. Walk on. Walk on.

:40:37.:40:39.

What sort of weight would they pull, then, Nigel?

:40:40.:40:48.

Well, each of those horses weigh almost a tonne,

:40:49.:40:51.

and on wheels they can pull 2.5 times their own weight.

:40:52.:40:55.

So these two would pull, what, five tonne between them? Yeah, on wheels.

:40:56.:40:58.

If you were delivering beer with a brewery dray, you could put

:40:59.:41:02.

five tonne of beer on, and I have done on lots of occasions.

:41:03.:41:05.

Walk on, then. And it is right that a man could plough an acre in a day?

:41:06.:41:09.

if you get up early and have no real friends to get home to.

:41:10.:41:15.

And to plough an acre, you'd walk 11 miles. Goodness me!

:41:16.:41:24.

Nigel's passion for Suffolk breeds goes far beyond this mighty horse.

:41:25.:41:29.

The Suffolk sheep has been in existence since the late 1700s,

:41:30.:41:33.

but has a very different story to that of the Suffolk Punch.

:41:34.:41:36.

I mean, the horse became rare for obvious reasons.

:41:37.:41:50.

The tractor automation took over, so...

:41:51.:41:52.

But the Suffolk sheep, that was a success from the word go.

:41:53.:41:59.

They bred a sheep with a wonderful carcass to it.

:42:00.:42:02.

It produces good, strong lambs, good mother, good milking sheep,

:42:03.:42:08.

so it's there and it is now still a very, very commercial breed.

:42:09.:42:14.

And what other breeds are there in Suffolk?

:42:15.:42:16.

There's what's known as the Suffolk Trinity, that's the Suffolk horse,

:42:17.:42:19.

the sheep that we're now looking at, and the Red Poll cattle.

:42:20.:42:23.

So, tell me about Red Poll cattle. What are they like?

:42:24.:42:25.

They were, up to the 1950s, quite a commercial breed in East Anglia,

:42:26.:42:29.

but obviously, the Continentals came in, which were double-muscled,

:42:30.:42:33.

and so on. But now, the Red Poll has seen a resurgence

:42:34.:42:37.

Anything else in the county? Yeah, we've got a Large Black pig.

:42:38.:42:43.

Well, so's ice cream, but we make that here as well.

:42:44.:42:49.

But the thing with... From what I gather, Devon and Cornwall

:42:50.:42:54.

had the Large Black pig, which became extinct, and now Suffolk

:42:55.:42:59.

and East Anglia in general has got the Large Black,

:43:00.:43:07.

Because of their black hair on the body, we moved over to a white pig,

:43:08.:43:12.

didn't we, so they didn't have the black hair on the crackling.

:43:13.:43:15.

You know, that was not just the Large Black but sort of the Oxford

:43:16.:43:20.

and Sandy and... Gloucestershire Old Spots. Yeah, the Orchard Pig,

:43:21.:43:23.

as they used to call it. Yeah. It's just a fashion, I think,

:43:24.:43:26.

to be truthful, cos... You know, if you swallow a white hair

:43:27.:43:30.

or a black hair, does it really matter?

:43:31.:43:32.

NIGEL LAUGHS Exactly.

:43:33.:43:33.

How come Suffolk's got so many of these great breeds?

:43:34.:43:36.

Well, it's known because it's God's County.

:43:37.:43:39.

That's what they say in Yorkshire and Cornwall.

:43:40.:43:42.

Yeah, but unfortunately, they're mistaken.

:43:43.:43:44.

They're wrong, though. No, Suffolk is definitely God's County. Yeah.

:43:45.:43:53.

But there's one more county breed I must see.

:43:54.:43:56.

It originated from the village of Ixworth

:43:57.:43:58.

and is appropriately named the Ixworth chicken.

:43:59.:44:03.

is dedicated to protecting this county breed.

:44:04.:44:09.

Hi, Katie. Hello, Adam. My word, lovely to meet you.

:44:10.:44:12.

What a fantastic-looking Ixworth. Thank you.

:44:13.:44:14.

He was created by a Reginald Appleyard.

:44:15.:44:19.

He was aiming to create a dual-purpose bird

:44:20.:44:21.

so one bird to do all the jobs that you need a chicken to do.

:44:22.:44:25.

That's the name of a duck, isn't it, so is that another Suffolk breed?

:44:26.:44:29.

Yes, it is. He also created a duck pretty much for meat and eggs

:44:30.:44:33.

so he was aiming again to create that one bird for all purposes.

:44:34.:44:37.

And so was it successful, then, the Ixworth?

:44:38.:44:40.

Well, I think at the time that he was creating it,

:44:41.:44:42.

Although it maintained its popularity in the war years,

:44:43.:44:48.

after the war, unfortunately, these guys just fell out of favour.

:44:49.:44:52.

So we went for the specialised egg-laying bird

:44:53.:44:54.

and the broiler, the meat-producing chicken... Yeah.

:44:55.:44:56.

..and these dual-purpose birds were no longer needed?

:44:57.:44:59.

they nearly dropped off the face of the earth, really,

:45:00.:45:04.

and, without some really loyal breeders,

:45:05.:45:07.

So I make that six Suffolk county breeds. That's pretty impressive.

:45:08.:45:13.

I don't think many counties can claim that.

:45:14.:45:15.

No, they can't, and that's why I'm quite proud to be Suffolk

:45:16.:45:18.

and have all these wonderful breeds. Well done, you.

:45:19.:45:20.

Thanks for letting me visit. All the best. Bye-bye. Bye.

:45:21.:45:29.

England's spectacular north-east coast, where sheer limestone cliffs

:45:30.:45:34.

plunge into the steely waters of the North Sea.

:45:35.:45:38.

Six miles south of Sunderland in County Durham

:45:39.:45:41.

lies the small coastal town of Seaham.

:45:42.:45:49.

These days it's hard to imagine that Seaham's beaches were once black

:45:50.:45:53.

with the slag and slurry of colliery waste.

:45:54.:46:00.

A century's worth of spoil from the area's coal mines had taken its toll

:46:01.:46:05.

When the last mine closed in 1992, the clean-up began,

:46:06.:46:12.

and now no trace of coal waste remains.

:46:13.:46:17.

There's one legacy of Seaham's industrial past that's become

:46:18.:46:20.

highly prized, and it's been washing up on the beaches here

:46:21.:46:24.

A true treasure. Jewels borne on the tide.

:46:25.:46:35.

Glass that's been sculpted and smoothed by the restless sea.

:46:36.:46:39.

Little fragments are found on beaches all over the world,

:46:40.:46:42.

but Seaham is one of the very best places to find it.

:46:43.:46:46.

It's all thanks to the town's Victorian past.

:46:47.:46:53.

producing 20,000 bottles a day at its peak.

:46:54.:46:57.

Any broken glass was just dumped into the sea

:46:58.:47:00.

to be washed up a century later as sea glass.

:47:01.:47:07.

but people come from all over the world to look for it,

:47:08.:47:13.

and today I'm going to join in with the treasure hunt.

:47:14.:47:20.

'Sea glass has helped one man change his life completely.

:47:21.:47:23.

'Gavin Hardy is a lifelong collector

:47:24.:47:26.

'who's turned his passion into a profitable jewellery business.'

:47:27.:47:29.

You're finding some already, I see. Yeah.

:47:30.:47:35.

When's the best time of year to be looking

:47:36.:47:36.

Probably now is the best time to look,

:47:37.:47:40.

when the tides are strong and the wind's strong as well.

:47:41.:47:44.

I was made redundant from a job a couple of years ago.

:47:45.:47:48.

obviously just kind of coming down and looking for glass.

:47:49.:47:53.

What was the appeal? What makes you keep coming back?

:47:54.:47:57.

I think the excitement of finding a different piece. There's one.

:47:58.:48:01.

I think kind of the thrill of finding different pieces like this,

:48:02.:48:08.

something that we can actually use in our jewellery

:48:09.:48:11.

So pieces like that for you are the real sort of collector's items?

:48:12.:48:17.

The colourful stuff that isn't the green and the whites? Yeah. Ah.

:48:18.:48:21.

Those are the pieces that are most desirable.

:48:22.:48:23.

Shall we split up and then come back together and share treasures,

:48:24.:48:26.

It is incredibly addictive, this business.

:48:27.:48:48.

'We're not the only ones beachcombing today.'

:48:49.:48:52.

Hiya. Hi. I want to have a look at your treasures,

:48:53.:48:55.

What have you got? That's a different one there.

:48:56.:48:59.

Yeah, it's just like bits of wire, like safety glass.

:49:00.:49:02.

What do you do with it when you take it home?

:49:03.:49:04.

We've just got, like, a jar. My daughter likes to collect it.

:49:05.:49:08.

If you can get a piece with colour in... It's rare to find those.

:49:09.:49:10.

Proper treasure. Yeah, indeed. Well, I'll leave you do it.

:49:11.:49:13.

Thank you. Hope you find some more interesting pieces. See you later.

:49:14.:49:18.

'Well, I'm happy with my finds, but how's Gavin got on?'

:49:19.:49:22.

A few nice pieces. Ooh, very blue in tone.

:49:23.:49:27.

These are my best bits of the morning.

:49:28.:49:29.

I've got a two-tone green there... That's nice.

:49:30.:49:31.

..and I've got these two blue shark's teeth there, look.

:49:32.:49:33.

Yeah, those are the pieces that people are after.

:49:34.:49:35.

The brighter coloured ones are the best ones to find.

:49:36.:49:38.

It's quite a good haul. Is there something we could do with these?

:49:39.:49:41.

Yeah, I think we could make a few pieces. Excellent.

:49:42.:49:43.

Shall we go back to the workshop? Yeah, let's go. All right.

:49:44.:49:49.

'Gavin uses all the coloured gems he can find

:49:50.:49:52.

'He's going to show me how to transform my beach bounty

:49:53.:50:07.

Drill in the other. Hold it quite firm. Press down a bit?

:50:08.:50:39.

That's fine. So I'll give myself a mark for the other side? Yeah.

:50:40.:51:17.

If you're heading out on the hunt for treasure this week,

:51:18.:51:20.

you'll want to know what the weather will be doing.

:51:21.:51:23.

for strong wind and potential travel disruption and impact through the

:51:24.:52:11.

day, wind across land areas could hit 60 mph, further south around 80

:52:12.:52:14.

mph. High seas and hit 60 mph, further south around 80

:52:15.:52:22.

Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly. Away from the waves and the strong

:52:23.:52:27.

wind, heavy and thundery showers with sunshine in between. Contrast

:52:28.:52:32.

to the other half of the country, wind picking up across Northern

:52:33.:52:37.

Ireland and England to bring 40 mph gusts and some sunshine at times but

:52:38.:52:40.

the best of Monday gusts and some sunshine at times but

:52:41.:52:44.

Scotland with one or two showers but plenty of dry and sunny weather

:52:45.:52:49.

after a frosty start. Feeling even colder in the south with those

:52:50.:52:54.

potentially damaging winds. Winds will slowly ease down through Monday

:52:55.:52:59.

night into Tuesday so feeding and plenty showers initially but they

:53:00.:53:02.

will be confined across parts of northern England and Wales and

:53:03.:53:07.

south-west Scotland. Temperatures dropping below freezing and

:53:08.:53:09.

widespread frost into Tuesday morning. On Tuesday, the coldest air

:53:10.:53:17.

behind this weather front will work southwards through the day winning

:53:18.:53:21.

at mix of rain and sleet and hill snow and we could see some

:53:22.:53:25.

wintriness over higher ground. Still some gusty wind along the weather

:53:26.:53:31.

front and touching gale force at times. Sunny for a time across the

:53:32.:53:36.

North as temperatures drop. 5 degrees for many in the afternoon

:53:37.:53:39.

and that colder air will eventually go southwards as it clears the South

:53:40.:53:46.

coast into Wednesday morning. A little ridge of high pressure

:53:47.:53:50.

building infra-red Friday with the odd weather front for the south-west

:53:51.:53:54.

producing cloud and rain and some gusty wind for the North and East of

:53:55.:53:59.

Scotland and north-east England. For many, after a cold and icy start, it

:54:00.:54:07.

should be a dry day. Wednesday into Thursday, low systems push across

:54:08.:54:12.

France and for Thursday it will be largely dry but there will be old

:54:13.:54:17.

weather front 's tangling with the benign conditions producing the odd

:54:18.:54:20.

shower and if you brakes on the cloud and sunshine but overall it

:54:21.:54:25.

generally cool day. Into Friday, the jet stream pushes further north but

:54:26.:54:30.

it is half-hearted, it does not really get to the UK but it pushes

:54:31.:54:34.

blood pressure towards us which does not make inroads far north and will

:54:35.:54:39.

swing southwards and eastwards into the near continent but that means

:54:40.:54:43.

the northern half of the UK, bearing in mind this could change, but to

:54:44.:54:49.

the north it looks like Scotland and Northern Ireland will have cold

:54:50.:54:52.

easterly wind through the day, dryer and brighter conditions and

:54:53.:54:55.

outbreaks of rain further south and always that but Wilder and that

:54:56.:54:57.

process both Today we've been round

:54:58.:55:10.

and about in Tyne and Wear. Whilst Ellie has been

:55:11.:55:14.

exploring the coastline, I've been on North Tyneside taking a

:55:15.:55:18.

look at the Rising Sun Country Park, a former coal mine that's been

:55:19.:55:22.

transformed into a green haven At the edge of the park

:55:23.:55:26.

sits a mixed farm and it takes a special kind of

:55:27.:55:37.

person to make a go of farming Now, then, Matt. How we doing, Matt?

:55:38.:55:46.

Good to see you. Nice to see you. And you too. Everything all right?

:55:47.:55:49.

Yeah, fine, yeah. Good lad. 'was just 22

:55:50.:55:52.

when he took on this challenge.' So where did this passion of yours

:55:53.:55:59.

come from, cos you're not from a farming

:56:00.:56:02.

family, are you, Matt? No, I'm not. I'm not quite sure,

:56:03.:56:05.

to be honest, Matt. When did you first ever

:56:06.:56:07.

experience a farm? First time I did a bit of shooting

:56:08.:56:11.

with my grandfather, which I thoroughly enjoyed

:56:12.:56:14.

and then got quite into that and realised the countryside was

:56:15.:56:16.

the place I wanted to be in. It was a very enjoyable job from

:56:17.:56:20.

what I could see from the outside, so I decided I'd go and get some

:56:21.:56:23.

experience, so that's what I did. 'It's taken a lot of hard work,

:56:24.:56:28.

but, in just two years, 'Matt has started turning

:56:29.:56:31.

a profit from farming It looks like you're producing some

:56:32.:56:34.

wonderful stock, it really does. What is it like to farm,

:56:35.:56:41.

in general, this landscape? The whole site's 400 acres in the

:56:42.:56:44.

middle of Newcastle effectively, so it hasn't been put back

:56:45.:56:49.

the best it could have been, so it is a lot wetter,

:56:50.:56:55.

a lot muddier. We've just got to be

:56:56.:56:58.

a lot more careful. I think we have

:56:59.:57:00.

a lower stocking weight, and also we're on the urban fringe,

:57:01.:57:02.

so it's great to have so many people come on to the farm,

:57:03.:57:05.

as long as they use it responsibly. 'The farm does a lot

:57:06.:57:09.

for the local community, 'giving adults with learning

:57:10.:57:12.

disabilities and college students 'the chance to learn

:57:13.:57:15.

more about farming, 'and a bit of extra help

:57:16.:57:17.

always comes in handy.' Right,

:57:18.:57:21.

so you don't have a sheepdog, but you've got some college

:57:22.:57:22.

students over here? Yeah. Our sole purpose to be here

:57:23.:57:25.

is for the community, to provide an outlet

:57:26.:57:34.

for people to come... Yeah. ..enjoy the environment,

:57:35.:57:37.

enjoy farming and food. Yeah, we're building

:57:38.:57:40.

the stock numbers up. And the flock of sheep we're just

:57:41.:57:43.

putting into the polytunnel here now then, they're going to come in

:57:44.:57:46.

in preparation for lambing? We'll give them a little bit of feed

:57:47.:57:49.

while they're in, and, hopefully, we should be lambing

:57:50.:57:54.

the first batch 1st April. Let's hope we can get them in

:57:55.:57:57.

first time. That's when all the college students

:57:58.:58:00.

come in handy. Yeah, hopefully. Come on, get the arms waving.

:58:01.:58:03.

Get the old arms waving. There we are, Matt. Too easy, that.

:58:04.:58:09.

Yeah, something like that. I'll shut this door,

:58:10.:58:19.

keep the students out. Well, that's all we've got time for

:58:20.:58:22.

from Tyne and Wear. Next week we're going to be

:58:23.:58:29.

in Norfolk, where I'll be with the next generation of gamekeepers

:58:30.:58:31.

as they're put through their paces. And I'll be hoping to catch

:58:32.:58:35.

a glimpse of one of our most spectacular and faithful birds,

:58:36.:58:37.

so I hope you can join us then. There's something I have to do,

:58:38.:59:11.

something terrible.

:59:12.:59:15.

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