Yr Arctig / Ynys Solovetsky Iolo yn Rwsia

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-I'm travelling across Russia -

-the world's largest country.

-It's an incredible country.

-I've already visited

-the Caucasus mountains and Siberia.

-I've now reached

-the Arctic area of Russia.

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-The Arctic

-The harsh endless winters

-and snow storms...

-..force the arctic creatures

-to live under extreme conditions.

-The landscape is also harsh...

-..and even the largest animals

-in this part of Russia...

-..battle to survive.

-I've travelled up to the White Sea,

-to the island of Solovetsky.

-Solovetsky is a collection

-of six large islands...

-..and numerous small islands.

-It covers an area

-totalling 300 square kilometres.

-Today, it's a popular

-tourist attraction...

-..because of its beautiful landscape

-and rich history.

-Before I visit the village

-on the main island...

-..I'm going to sail across the White

-Sea to learn more about the islands.

-Sacha, a local fisherman,

-has offered to take me out.

-The locals rely on the White Sea.

-As I watch the sun

-shining on the open water...

-..I find it hard to believe

-that I'm in the Arctic.

-This is the scene people

-normally associate with the Arctic.

-Even in May,

-200 miles from the White Sea...

-..northern Yakutia

-is covered in snow.

-Here, the rarest birds in the world

-choose to mate.

-This is the Siberian white crane.

-There remain only 3,000

-of these birds in the whole world.

-They prefer quiet, wide-open spaces.

-The Arctic tundra in Russia

-is ideal for them.

-They're very shy creatures.

-Filming these birds

-is a very special moment.

-Wrangel Island

-is 3,000 miles from the White Sea...

-..at the far end

-of the Arctic in Russia.

-It's a difficult place to reach.

-The weather conditions are extreme

-and no-one lives there...

-..but the wildlife is incredible.

-Our wildlife camera crew

-spent many months on the island.

-In May, the snow geese

-fly over from North America.

-Over 100,000 birds

-come here to mate.

-Their visit is welcomed

-by one particular island resident.

-The Arctic fox is hungry but

-the geese are remarkably strong...

-..and more than able

-to defend themselves.

-This fox will have to be

-more cunning.

-Even though the sun is strong,

-the land is covered by snow.

-This makes is difficult

-for the geese to build nests.

-They have to be patient.

-More snow melts every day.

-The birds need food to regain their

-strength after their long journey.

-In this part of Arctic Russia...

-..the weather is changeable.

-Winter can return unexpectedly.

-As the snow starts to fall...

-..the temperature drops

-to minus 10 degrees Celsius.

-The following morning, the land

-has disappeared under the snow.

-The Arctic fox's thick coat

-keeps it warm.

-The harsh conditions

-offer a good opportunity...

-..for the fox to find animals

-that have died.

-At the moment,

-the snow geese are strong enough...

-..to survive for days without food.

-But they, like the long-tailed skua,

-remain still...

-..to conserve their energy.

-For nine months of the year, the

-Arctic is covered in ice and snow.

-During this time, it's a very bare,

-inhospitable place.

-However, between June and August...

-..spring and summer arrive

-at the same time.

-This is when the wildlife show

-really begins.

-By August,

-the thick layer of ice has melted.

-The polar bear stays on the

-floating ice near Wrangel Island.

-The bear can sense

-that the ice is fragile.

-It heads for dry land

-as quickly as it can.

-As a result of global warming...

-..the ice which floats on the sea

-melts quickly.

-The bears' hunting season

-is decreasing every year.

-Up in the highlands,

-the snow melts...

-..and creates little streams.

-For a short period,

-the taiga's rivers overflow.

-As the ice melts,

-vegetation appears.

-It's an opportunity

-for the snow geese to feed.

-However, the geese have been

-startled by an unwelcome visitor.

-A wolf is prowling

-through the valley...

-..but it has no interest

-in the geese.

-The geese make a huge show

-of sending the wolf on its way.

-In the end, the wolf flees.

-The geese remain vigilant - Arctic

-foxes steal eggs from their nests.

-The geese are ready

-to defend the nest.

-The female goose hatches the eggs

-with the male nearby.

-The fox knows better

-than to attack the male.

-Because of the extreme cold, some

-of the geese have left their nests.

-The eggs are easy pickings

-for the fox.

-It has so much choice,

-it starts feasting immediately...

-..and keeps the rest

-for bleaker times.

-It has many different hiding places.

-The cold ground provides

-natural refrigeration...

-..and the eggs stay fresh.

-It appears that the fox has stolen

-eggs from most of the nests already.

-It will be difficult for it to

-find more eggs in the near future.

-As it approaches the male goose...

-..it assesses the goose's ability

-to defend itself.

-If it sees a weakness,

-it moves closer.

-If it succeeds,

-it will steal one egg...

-..since it cannot carry any more.

-It will remember this nest

-as an easy place to find food.

-This time, it pounces immediately.

-The geese has no chance

-and it loses another egg.

-The fox leaves one behind.

-The fox returns to steal

-the final egg from the nest.

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-In June,

-the sun shines over the Arctic.

-The tundra starts to reveal

-its colourful secrets.

-On Wrangel Island,

-the mating season is in full flow.

-The snow bunting...

-..grey plover...

-..and the eider

-are basking in the sun's heat.

-Even in the summer, the temperature

-struggles to reach freezing.

-Sleet is common

-in this part of the Arctic.

-The wildlife is used to the weather.

-Soon,

-the sleet turns into heavy snow.

-It covers the ground once more.

-The beautiful landscape

-disappears in a matter of hours.

-Here, on Solovetsky, I've discovered

-a colony of very familiar birds.

-This is a very common bird

-in the Arctic region.

-The Arctic tern leaves this place

-at the end of the summer...

-..and migrates all the way down

-to the South Pole.

-In early spring,

-it heads north again.

-It migrates further

-than any other bird in the world.

-The largest nesting place in Europe

-is here on Solovetsky Island.

-There are over 500,000 pairs

-in Europe.

-This bird's main source of food

-is fish.

-The male and female choose a nest

-and defend it fiercely.

-The female lays two eggs...

-..while the male searches for food.

-The two usually stay together

-forever.

-After a short stop on land, Sacha

-is eager to return to the water.

-There are a lot of strange-looking

-animals in this part of the Arctic.

-One of them is the beluga -

-a small white whale.

-It swims into shallow water

-to give birth to its young...

-..and to feast on the thousands of

-fish and crabs that are found here.

-During the summer,

-they travel hundreds of miles...

-..to reach the Russian Arctic coast.

-The beluga prefers

-the shallow water of the Arctic...

-..because it is heated by the sun.

-During this time,

-the beluga gives birth to its young.

-They have given birth here

-for over 6,000 years.

-I talk to Tatiana Fokina,

-an expert on the whales.

-She accompanies tourists on the

-island as they look for the belugas.

-The fact that tourist numbers

-are on the increase...

-..has interfered with

-the living patterns of the whales.

-They now tend to stay away

-from the island.

-Despite this, this is an ideal place

-for them to give birth.

-The water is so clear

-with very little seaweed.

-Only when you leave the forest

-and reach the real tundra...

-..do you realize

-how short the vegetation is.

-Under the ground,

-there's only an inch of soil.

-Under that soil,

-there is a layer of permafrost.

-One animal has adapted perfectly

-to this habitat.

-During the summer, the gigantic

-muskoxen compete for a mate.

-The bulls stay together

-and battle ferociously for hours.

-They weigh about 400kgs each...

-..and charge towards each other

-at great speeds.

-The impact of the horns can been

-seen on muskoxen's forehead.

-Despite the power of the clash,

-serious injuries are rare.

-The effort and the strain

-tire the bulls.

-Soon, one loses confidence

-and turns its back on the battle.

-It's hard to believe

-that such a powerful creature...

-..can survive

-on the tundra vegetation.

-In the Arctic highlands,

-a herd of animals graze the land...

-..to survive the harsh winters.

-The Arctic provides a habitat...

-..for the world's

-largest population of reindeer.

-Thousands live here.

-They are searching for food.

-They travel through

-the snow geese's habitat...

-..but they don't destroy

-one single nest.

-Despite this,

-the geese remain vigilant.

-The hatching season has begun and a

-number of chicks have been hatched.

-The chicks leave the nest with

-their mother after a few hours...

-..but first, they have to wait

-for all the eggs to hatch.

-This can take at least a day.

-It's a dangerous time

-for the chicks.

-The Arctic fox is still prowling.

-The best place to hide

-is under the mother's wings.

-The fox has no interest

-in the chicks at the moment.

-Something else

-has caught its attention.

-Amidst the eared willow,

-a more substantial meal awaits.

-There, it catches a brown lemming.

-It will satisfy its appetite

-far more than a feeble chick.

-When the fox has disappeared,

-the chicks venture out again.

-However, a wolverine appears nearby.

-A member of the stoat family...

-..this fierce creature

-is a greater threat to the goose.

-Fortunately,

-the wolverine only steals an egg.

-This is the last opportunity

-the chicks will have to rest.

-Soon, the family will move

-to the open tundra...

-..and the safety of a giant lake.

-It's a long and dangerous journey.

-Some families migrate over 40 miles

-despite the harsh weather.

-This is the best time of year

-to travel in the Arctic.

-In the warmer conditions, the tundra

-provides food for turnstones...

-..Lapland buntings...

-..and grey plovers.

-Plenty of food for everyone.

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-In the tundra highlands, the Arctic

-fox has given birth to some cubs.

-Only two wait

-for their mother's return.

-The mother usually gives birth

-to a dozen cubs.

-Since there is a shortage of

-lemmings in this area this year...

-..most of the cubs have died.

-The mother

-seldom returns to her young.

-Even when she does,

-she has little food for them.

-Every now and then, the lemming

-population decreases substantially.

-Then, it increases

-over a number of years.

-This year, numbers are low.

-The situation is better

-on the lowlands.

-These cubs have grown quickly

-on a diet of goslings.

-These three brothers and sisters

-often fight over food.

-They're unwilling to share.

-While two fight,

-the other steals the treasure.

-Foxes which live on the tundra...

-..have a good chance

-of rearing their young this year.

-The snow owl

-can't depend on geese to survive.

-The lemming is its main prey.

-The chicks are hungry

-but the mother has nothing to offer.

-With such a dearth of lemmings...

-..sometimes,

-the owls choose not to mate.

-This owl should have given birth

-to ten chicks.

-Only two are in the nest.

-One is very weak

-and fights to stay alive.

-The weakness can be seen

-in the chick's size.

-It will only regain its strength

-after feeding.

-The mother is eager to hunt.

-She's been eyeing

-the nearby terrain for hours.

-She's spotted a lemming.

-She has to take a chance

-if she wants to save her chicks.

-The mother has caught the rodent.

-The strongest chick

-attacks the food first.

-The youngest is too weak to move.

-The mother tries to feed

-the youngest chick...

-..but the stronger brother

-is too quick for her.

-It's too late

-to save the smaller chick.

-The stronger chick

-is safe for now...

-..but the mother will struggle

-to find enough food for him...

-..over the coming weeks.

-In early spring, thick ice

-covers this part of the sea.

-Out there,

-the polar bear hunts for seals.

-By the summer, the ice has thawed...

-..and the polar bear

-hunts mainly along the coast.

-It will attack any creature,

-whatever its size.

-Polar bears keep a keen eye

-on the land around them.

-A young polar bear

-has seen something moving...

-..in the shallow water.

-The bear is trying to catch a fish

-in the water.

-This is unusual for a bear

-more used to hunting seals.

-This bear has clearly

-not caught a fish before...

-..but if it likes

-the taste of fish...

-..it will have to learn quickly

-how to catch one.

-Happy with its life,

-the bear disappears into the sunset.

-With autumn approaching, the snow

-geese gather on Wrangel Island.

-They will migrate to warmer climes

-in time for winter.

-Some will migrate

-as far as California.

-Soon, only the polar bears

-will remain on the island.

-These huge creatures are

-the true masters of Wrangel Island.

-The bears are hungry.

-They're waiting for the sea

-to freeze...

-..to allow them

-to hunt for seals on the ice.

-Like its mother, this cub roams

-the coastline looking for food.

-These bears

-haven't eaten for six months.

-Since they're all so hungry...

-..it's better for the cubs

-to stay away from the older bears.

-The mother has to be vigilant...

-..in case the cubs stray

-too close to the adult bears.

-Even innocent play-fighting

-can be dangerous for the cubs.

-An older bear can weigh 700kgs.

-It's not a good idea

-to play with him.

-Sometimes, older bears

-will kill younger bears...

-..but the mother makes sure

-her cubs don't get too close.

-Fortunately, this bear

-has no interest in the cubs.

-It's better not to venture

-too close, just in case.

-All these bears do in the autumn

-is wait for the sea to freeze.

-Then, the seals

-will be within reach again.

-One bear has found

-an interesting toy in the water.

-A walrus's skin

-is relatively tasteless...

-..but it keeps this bear happy

-for a while.

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-I'm visiting Solovetsky's

-main island.

-This island is truly unique.

-Today, the locals consider

-the island to be a symbol of Russia.

-To them, it represents

-beauty and inspiration.

-It's also a place

-which witnessed brutal cruelty...

-..at the prison, or Gulag,

-at the far end of the island.

-Today, the island is home

-to the Solovetsky monastery...

-..Russia's most famous

-and most influential.

-At one time, there were thousands

-of walruses on Solovetsky Island.

-In the 18th century,

-they disappeared...

-..after being hunted

-by the monks from this monastery.

-The best place to see

-these animals in Russia now...

-..is Wrangel Island.

-On Wrangel Island, walruses stay on

-the beach for only a short period.

-The polar bears

-are glad to see them...

-..since they offer

-the possibility of food.

-In late September,

-thousands of walruses...

-..leave the Arctic and swim for

-miles to escape the snow and ice.

-Sometimes,

-they rest along the coast.

-While the polar bears

-roam the coastline...

-..the walruses

-stay a safe distance away.

-Even on dry land, it's not

-an easy task to kill a walrus.

-The walruses are very vigilant...

-..and, unfortunately

-for the bears, stay away.

-One walrus ventures on to

-dry land. It's weak and needs rest.

-It is not alone.

-This polar bear

-can smell fresh meat.

-The following day,

-the walrus's carcass suggests...

-..that the bear

-has enjoyed a hearty feast.

-A young bear has found the carcass.

-It approaches slowly

-in case other bears are nearby.

-200 metres away, the hunter has

-feasted all night and needs a rest.

-The young bear

-grabs its chance to feed...

-..and uses its weight

-to tenderize the meat.

-Nearby,

-the larger bear struggles to move.

-It's eaten too much.

-The young bear remains vigilant.

-It must act quickly

-before it is discovered.

-The walruses stay in the water.

-They are very social creatures

-and prefer to stay in large groups.

-Even when they have plenty of room,

-they stay close to each other.

-They're heavy animals,

-weighing a ton and a half each.

-Their tusks can grow to a length

-of half a metre...

-..useful tools to use

-against a polar bear.

-Innocent play-fighting is common.

-It's important that this young

-walrus, with its small tusks...

-..makes sure it's not squeezed

-by the larger walruses.

-Even though they rest contentedly...

-..at least one walrus

-will keep watch...

-..in case the polar bear returns.

-While the walruses

-rest on Wrangel Island...

-..back on Solovetsky I visit a place

-where hundreds lost their lives.

-For hundreds of years,

-the monks controlled the prison...

-..where prisoners

-were allowed to work on the land.

-They weren't all criminals.

-Some were very able-minded -

-authors, scientists and poets...

-..people who had protested

-against the Russian Government.

-In 1937, Stalin turned the prison

-into a Gulag...

-..a remote prison where

-prisoners were brutally treated.

-Once again, I'm astounded by

-man's savagery and nature's beauty.

-Wild animals kill...

-..but they do so as they search

-for food or to defend themselves.

-Here, people were killed needlessly.

-Many suffered a painful end

-to their life.

-In 1939, the Gulag was closed down.

-The suffering has left its mark

-on Solovetsky.

-When the White Sea

-freezes in winter...

-..groups of harp seals gather

-to give birth to their young.

-The mother makes sure her pup

-stays close to a hole in the ice.

-The pup weighs 10kgs when it's born.

-The only thing the pup has to do

-is feed and grow.

-The seals only rear their young

-for the first 12 days.

-After 12 days, the young pup

-spends 10 days on the ice alone...

-..before diving into the sea.

-Until then,

-it waits patiently to be fed.

-The pup relies on its mother's milk

-for nourishment and fat.

-As a result, the pup gains weight

-quickly - two kilogrammes a day.

-When the mother leaves the pup,

-it can weigh up to 35kgs...

-..large enough

-to survive on its own.

-The mother stays close to the pup

-even when it's underwater.

-It will return to the pup

-up to seven times a day.

-The current can make it difficult

-for the mother to find her way back.

-A male seal approaches the mother.

-When she leaves her pup,

-the mating period will start again.

-The mother isn't ready yet.

-The male is determined

-to try his luck, but he fails.

-Some days later, the pup's calls

-fail to attract its mother.

-It will never see its mother again.

-The ice and cold weather

-are good news for the bears.

-Soon, the harsh winter

-will return to the Arctic.

-The bears will head for their

-frozen world on the water again.

-The bears are in high spirits.

-They're looking forward

-to their favourite time of year...

-..and the prosperous times

-that lie ahead.

-Once again, here in the Arctic...

-..I've been reminded

-about the vast size of Russia.

-It's like ten different countries

-thrown together.

-The Russian part of the Arctic

-is also vast.

-It stretches from Scandinavia

-all the way over to China.

-The Arctic itself

-is also a contradiction.

-I arrived expecting to see

-the land and the sea...

-..locked together by snow and ice

-with the odd polar bear or two.

-For three months every year,

-the snow and ice melt away...

-..and the wildlife

-explodes into life.

-The landscape is covered

-by flowers and insects.

-Birds return and animals appear.

-It's a complete contrast

-to what I was expecting to see.

-I've enjoyed every minute

-of my time here.

-S4C Subtitles by Simian 04 Cyf.

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