Mynyddoedd y Byd: Corea Mynyddoedd y Byd

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-Mountains.

-The upper reaches of the world.

-A challenge and inspiration

-for humanity.

-The people of the mountains

-are tough and inventive.

-They've learnt how to live here

-and maintain a culture.

-Below, the world is getting warmer.

-The climate is changing.

-The mountains are not separate from

-the fate of the rest of the planet.

-From the peaks of Korea to the hills

-of the Rwenzori in Africa.

-From the Alps to the Andes.

-From the Rockies to the Himalayas.

-This is the story of living

-on the high parts of Earth.

-The mountains of the world.

-Korea and Wales

-have things in common.

-But, on the whole,

-it's an unfamiliar country to us.

-I came here three years ago

-as a BBC correspondent.

-For Korean people,

-the mountains are sacred land.

-A temple for Buddha has stood on

-this mountain for a thousand years.

-Tonight, something magical

-is in the air.

-The monks

-want to awaken the universe.

-MONASTIC CHANT

-First, they awaken the heavens as

-they strike a plate called an unpan.

-Then, the mokeo fish

-will awaken life in the seas.

-This bell, beopgo,

-will awaken the entire earth.

-The capital of South Korea, Seoul,

-has been my home for three years.

-There's nowhere else on earth...

-..where the old and new

-are so close together...

-..yet so different.

-Seoul is buzzing.

-It's full of businesses and shops.

-It's easy to see

-why people want to live in the city.

-South Koreans adore everything

-that the modern world has to offer.

-But, under the surface,

-they care deeply about other things.

-What's interesting to me is the

-importance of the mountains to them.

-I've gone on a journey

-to find the other Korea.

-The Korea that's close to the heart

-of so many here.

-A Korea

-that rises high above the city.

-For personal reasons

-that will become evident...

-..it's quite a challenge for me.

-But, as the BBC's correspondent

-in the country...

-..it's important I understand...

-..what drives so many people from

-the street to the summit every week.

-A series of mountains

-run along the Korean Peninsula...

-..ignoring no-man's land,

-the demilitarized zone...

-..which stands between the South

-and the communists of the North.

-A very significant chain, therefore.

-The Korean people

-have a name for it, Baekdu-daegan.

-It runs from south to north...

-..like a spine for the country.

-The summits are quite low

-on the whole...

-..not much bigger than hills.

-But they fire

-the people's imagination.

-My heart is in Jirisan Mountain.

-It's similar to my mother's arms.

-One, two, three.

-One, two, three.

-

-OK, beautiful!

-The people of the hills

-are dear people.

-They've always looked to the summits

-for inspiration.

-Korean people say, "Under every big

-mountain, there's a big hero too."

-The old heroes are important here.

-But the mountains

-are even more important.

-When the modern world

-is oppressive...

-..the Korean people

-retreat to the mountains...

-..and try to emulate their virtues.

-When praising someone, we say,

-"That person's like a mountain!"

-Extending over the border

-to the north...

-..they offer hope that some day the

-civil war will be just a memory...

-..and the country united once more.

-I long to return.

-I was born and raised there.

-So, it's my dream.

-This is the story

-of the Korean people...

-..and the place the mountains have

-in their hearts.

-In the past, the present

-and the future.

-Seoul is a metropolis.

-Ten million inhabitants

-and it's still growing.

-Today, once again...

-..it's the success of South Korea's

-economy that's in the headlines.

-Yeah, I can hear you.

-Think back 50 years.

-This economy was dirt poor.

-A peasant economy.

-Now, it's one of the most prosperous

-economies on this planet.

-Outside the city is another Korea.

-A Korea that hasn't changed

-half as suddenly.

-Where the country's history

-can be read in the soil.

-This is rice and these

-are the famous paddy fields.

-In the mountains' shadow,

-this land is very fertile.

-However, the mountainous areas

-are finding it tough.

-The rural problems

-experienced here...

-..are similar to the rural problems

-in Wales.

-Unemployment.

-Young, talented people leaving.

-Political power

-far removed in the city.

-Very few talented people return

-to their area of birth to work.

-But here's one, Choi Sunho.

-In the Jirisan National Park,

-he's doing something very brave...

-..working on the land

-with his mother.

-I worked in Seoul for 23 years,

-as a picture editor for a newspaper.

-I was Head of Department at

-the largest such company in Korea.

-I was under a lot of stress.

-A lot of stress maybe...

-..but not many bosses in the city

-are stricter than his mother.

-There's something wrong

-with this sickle.

-It's you who's at fault

-not the sickle.

-This is how you do it.

-- Do I use force?

-- No, like this!

-Oh, I understand.

-I've learnt something again.

-It's hard to please your mother.

-But Choi Sunho is happy.

-In the city,

-they race against the clock.

-In the mountains,

-we live according to Time itself.

-In the city,

-I was running around in circles...

-..like a constantly ticking clock.

-Here, I manage my own time.

-It's nice to live

-by my own timetable.

-There's plenty of time in

-the mountains, but not enough money.

-So, Choi Sunho is keen

-to use his city connections...

-..to benefit the community.

-He's asking the local farmers

-to join a joint marketing campaign.

-It's hard to find customers

-in the city.

-Every farmer

-is doing his level best...

-..but they have hardly any

-experience of building a brand.

-It's obvious that working together

-is a good idea.

-But will it be successful?

-Time will tell.

-One local business

-is already successful.

-The village restaurant

-is run by Yun Sil...

-..Choi Sunho's sister.

-It's a social centre as well

-as a nice place to have lunch.

-Yun Sil buys everything she cooks

-locally.

-Another boost

-for the area's farmers.

-Choi Sunho is often here

-giving his sister a helping hand.

-But today, he can't stay.

-His mother insists

-he goes back to the mountain...

-..for another lesson.

-A light bite

-is enough of a lunch for her.

-And for me, apparently.

-Tasty.

-Not very. But it's alright.

-The task this afternoon

-is planting flowers.

-Common evening-primroses

-to be exact.

-The aim is to remove

-the surrounding weeds...

-..before the primroses

-appear in spring.

-Then, the family's land...

-..will become a patch

-of natural therapy for others.

-One, two, three.

-OK, beautiful!

-Jirisan mountain has a lovely shape.

-Imagine the primroses

-under the moon.

-The mountain in moonlight, yellow

-flowers under the yellow moon.

-To see that

-would do people a lot of good.

-It's only a piece of land

-on top of the mountain.

-But, for him, it's his dream.

-My heart is in Jirisan Mountain.

-It's similar to my mother's arms.

-What better for a Korean boy

-than a hug from his mother.

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-Over the past half a century...

-..the South Korean economy

-has grown and grown.

-Millions of people have moved

-from their homes in the mountains...

-..for jobs in the city.

-The depopulation

-has been sudden and astounding.

-Life in mountain villages and old

-traditions are now just a memory.

-If they want to see

-the old way of life...

-..schoolchildren have to come

-to somewhere like this...

-..a Korean St Fagans.

-The young people of today

-aren't familiar with our traditions.

-Here, they learn about

-morals and traditions.

-How to be courteous, the rules

-of the Tea Ceremony, and so on.

-I'm proud that we introduce

-these things to them.

-The children try the old crafts.

-But there's a lesson in

-pungsu-jiri too...

-..the ancient rules

-on how to situate a village.

-If a village has a river

-in front of it, it brings good luck.

-Behind it, according

-to this open-air feng shui...

-..one thing is crucial.

-A mountain.

-As the saying goes, "Under every big

-mountain, there's a big hero too."

-The mountains inspire people.

-A village with a mountain behind it

-and a river in front is blessed.

-This village is very lucky...

-..a mountain behind, a river

-in front and south-facing houses.

-But the village of Oeam

-is more than a museum.

-The villagers grow vegetables,

-collect fruit...

-..and keep house

-according to old customs.

-One family here maintains a craft...

-..that's been passed down

-from generation to generation.

-Lotus Leaf Liquor

-is our family's tipple.

-We introduced the Liquor

-to Emperor Gojong.

-The Emperor

-became very fond of the taste...

-..and of the man

-who brewed the drink...

-..Champan, or deputy minister.

-So, a century and a half ago...

-..the family started a tradition

-which continues today.

-To brew Yeonyupju, you mix yeast,

-rice and pine needles.

-It's like making bread, the way

-my grandmother would have done.

-By marrying into the family...

-..Lee Hyosuk

-has taken on great responsibility.

-She is the Jongbu,

-the wife of the eldest son.

-She brews the drink

-under her mother-in-law's guidance.

-The Champan moved to this village.

-The Emperor gave him this house

-as a gift.

-The family have lived here

-ever since - 140 years!

-In every generation, liquor-making

-falls on the wife of the eldest son.

-I'm the sixth Jongbu.

-The special taste of the drink comes

-from the pure water of the mountain.

-But it must be carefully tasted

-every time...

-..to ensure

-that all is as it should be.

-It's an honour bestowed upon

-the father-in-law.

-This time, it passes the test.

-A brew made in rural Korea.

-It's strong.

-It's good!

-I love the taste!

-Korean mountains aren't high when

-compared to others in the world.

-But they are big in people's hearts.

-It's not the mountain's height that

-counts, but its shape and colour...

-..and more than anything,

-the emotion felt when walking on it.

-For proof,

-come to Mudeongsan mountain...

-..to meet one of the country's

-most talented artists.

-When making a picture of a mountain,

-I don't draw what I see.

-I draw the emotion the mountain

-gives me - what's in my heart.

-I draw to express my feelings.

-Heo Daljae is the grandson of Uijae,

-the famous artist.

-He paints in the same tradition

-and style as his grandfather.

-There are two painting traditions

-in Korea.

-In the North, a realistic tradition.

-But here in the South,

-the focus is on emotion.

-For me, emotion is the main thing.

-In the North, a drawing of

-a mountain looks like the mountain.

-But here in the South, it's not the

-colour or shape that's important...

-..but the feeling

-the mountain gives you.

-Uijae, Heo Daljae's grandfather...

-..was fond of combining in his

-calligraphy, poetry and painting.

-Calligraphy is a very important

-art form for Korean people.

-For centuries

-here in the mountains...

-..they've made a special type of

-paper that's ideal for graphic work.

-The process starts with the bark

-of one of the mountain trees...

-..the paper mulberry.

-It's strange how easy

-it comes away from the branch.

-Then, it goes into the bath.

-The paper has a special name -

-hanji.

-Ten layers of the wash

-go into every hanji leaf.

-Here it is - paper!

-Hanji is extremely strong.

-You can do the strangest of things

-with it.

-Everything here, every piece

-of clothing, is made from paper.

-But hanji

-is usually used for graphics.

-Calligraphy has a special place

-in Korea's history.

-In the middle of the capital...

-..competitions are held

-in the name of Emperor Joseon.

-Joseon was responsible

-for creating the alphabet...

-..that Korean people

-still use today.

-It's as important to them

-as William Morgan's Bible is to us.

-Uijae's calligraphy

-won praise across Korea.

-But he didn't enjoy fame.

-He retreated here to paint

-and to campaign for the common man.

-After the War, Uijae came here...

-..not only to paint, but to lead the

-Farmers' Movement and to grow tea.

-Mudeongsan is different

-to other mountains.

-It's circular in shape, not sharp.

-Therefore, it eases your mind.

-It's easy to see how such mountains

-could inspire artists.

-The influence of his home patch

-was obvious in Uijae's work.

-Mudeongsan was a model

-for many of his best works.

-Many of them can be seen in a

-gallery at the foot of the mountain.

-Here, grandfather and grandson

-still talk to each other...

-..like they did

-when Heo Daljae was a boy.

-If something worried me,

-I'd turn to him for advice.

-But after he died,

-there was no-one to give me advice.

-So, when life is hard for me...

-..I come here to look at

-my grandfather's paintings.

-I reflect until the answer comes.

-Then, the path is clear.

-Korean mountain art.

-The wisdom of the mountains.

-Here, both of them are one.

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-As I live and work in the middle

-of the capital, Seoul...

-..it's easy to forget...

-..that South Korea and its mountains

-have a long history.

-But here, a taste of the past

-is available for tourists.

-A proper fancy dress costume.

-Echoing the age of the emperors.

-This rings a bell!

-To get a handle

-on the old spirit of the country...

-..I must escape the modern city.

-The mountains calm the mind.

-There are now more Christians in the

-country than followers of Buddha.

-But you don't have

-to go to a church or temple...

-..to take advantage of the blessings

-of South Korea's mountains.

-I'm not a person of strong faith...

-..but, I have to say,

-there is a spirituality...

-..in these hills.

-That's certainly true

-about this mountain...

-..in the far south

-of the Korean Peninsula.

-Jogyesan mountain.

-One of the country's most beautiful

-religious establishments...

-..nestles in its shadow.

-This is Seonamsa temple.

-This place is extremely beautiful.

-The mountain itself is famous

-for its beauty.

-It's not very high...

-..but its slopes are wonderful.

-The shape of the buildings reflects

-the shape of the mountain itself.

-The temple is similar to a mountain

-in another sense too.

-It's open to everyone

-who wants to come here...

-..and for those who wish to leave.

-Mountains stay in one place.

-The temple is the same.

-So, we say that the temple doesn't

-grab anyone who wants to leave...

-..or turns away anyone

-who wants to come here.

-That's the nature

-of the mountain too.

-The aim of Seonamsa's monks is

-to live in harmony with each other.

-But, occasionally,

-this is difficult.

-This side's straight. From there,

-it looks different as it's circular.

-It looks straight

-from the other side too.

-From the far side, and on all sides

-- it's fine!

-The brothers disagree.

-Is the drum straight or not?

-Look here - it isn't plumb.

-The sound of the drum

-is meant to connect with the mind...

-..of every living creature

-and awaken it to its true nature.

-Of course,

-it helps if it's hanging correctly.

-From here, it looks fine.

-Yes, but only from there.

-One side is different to the other.

-From here, it's obvious. Up there,

-you can't see the top of the drum.

-Come down to look from the bottom.

-One side is higher.

-It's different.

-Other monks

-have noticed the squabble.

-At last, it's time for a soundcheck.

-The drum is ready to awaken

-the universe once more tonight.

-In Korea, sunsets are short.

-Night falls very quickly.

-Without Seonamsa's call, will

-the world awaken again tomorrow?

-Who knows for sure.

-Maintaining such a ceremony

-every night...

-..requires discipline

-and perseverance.

-When I was a new monk...

-..I missed my home and my friends.

-My heart was breaking

-with the pressures of the world.

-It was very tough at the start.

-But now, I've realized that this

-mountain teaches me to be patient.

-To accept things,

-to wait without anger.

-To have peace of mind.

-It's what I've learnt here.

-Ordinary people

-can visit Seonamsa...

-..to learn and to revive the spirit

-here in the mountains.

-Ask the climber

-why he goes to the mountains.

-The answer would be,

-"Because they exist."

-We become one with nature here. "I'm

-the mountain, the mountain is me."

-Many of us now understand that.

-For Korean people,

-mountains are sacred land.

-According to legend,

-Baekdu, the highest summit...

-..was the birthplace of Dangun,

-founder of Korea's first kingdom.

-The famous chain which begins

-with Mount Baekdu...

-..runs all the way to Jirisan.

-The mountains are extremely

-important to us as a nation...

-..with the streams

-that create the big rivers.

-The mountains is where, according

-to legend, Korean history started.

-We are not aware of it...

-..but they control the way

-Korean people think.

-Yes... the mountains

-shape our feelings.

-Mythology helps every nation

-to remember their roots.

-Korean people turn to the mountains

-for their myths.

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-Bali, bali! Hurry, hurry!

-It's something I hear a lot

-while working in South Korea.

-Everyone here

-is under pressure at work.

-Nevertheless, they are very keen

-to get to the office first thing.

-They work extremely long hours...

-..20% more than workers

-in the United States.

-Every weekend,

-the centre of Seoul is busy...

-..but with a different type

-of traveller.

-Saturday morning, seven o'clock.

-The buses are ready to take those

-keen to leave the city...

-..to go hiking.

-I'm a member of Haeol Hiking Club.

-There are 20,000 members in all.

-I walk for an hour each morning

-on the mountain behind the house.

-I hike to benefit my health.

-I'm 65 years old.

-Walking does my body a lot of good.

-That's why I started.

-But something's bothering everyone

-this morning.

-What to wear.

-Clothes?

-I buy one garment at a time.

-You can get fashionable brands

-but I buy what I fancy.

-I've got to go - I'm busy!

-So, bali, bali, it is!

-Off we go to the mountain.

-Every nation

-is proud of its countryside.

-But there's something unique...

-..about the way Koreans

-rush from mountain to mountain.

-It was possible

-to ask them to stop long enough...

-..to take a photograph

-and to teach them a Welsh word.

-Caws! (cheese)

-For the citizens of Seoul...

-..Mount Bukhan

-is the nearest place to go hiking.

-On weekends, they throng here...

-..after they've decided

-what to wear, of course.

-It's Saturday,

-but for many who come here...

-..work cannot be avoided.

-The big companies...

-..arrange for everyone in the office

-to go on a trip together.

-The aim, of course,

-is to build team spirit...

-..and celebrate the fun

-of working together.

-Daishin company, over here!

-In your teams!

-You have to listen to the boss.

-Teams, 1, 2, 3, 4...

-in rows like this.

-After the pressures

-of the working week...

-..they've come here in their

-thousands, determined to relax.

-The workers have hardly any choice

-but to follow the bosses.

-But, before starting the climb,

-we're told we'd better do a warm-up.

-Koreans are very competitive,

-even on a day trip to the mountain.

-They stretch every muscle in order

-to be ready to reach the top first.

-But, in the race for the summit,

-I have a secret weapon.

-This is my father's stick.

-It's cut from a hedge

-in Pembrokeshire.

-It will help me

-to go to the top of the mountain.

-The rushing, the bali, bali culture,

-has turned into a national illness.

-The government

-has spent 10 million...

-..on a campaign

-called Slow Hiking...

-..to encourage people

-to take things calmly.

-And it's time I admitted

-that I have an illness too.

-I get vertigo

-when I climb a mountain.

-Once the dizziness starts,

-it's impossible to continue...

-..even on a safe path

-like this one.

-I've twice tried to reach

-the summit of Bukhansan...

-..and failed twice.

-If at first you don't succeed,

-try, try and try again.

-Oops!

-There's no turning back now.

-C'mon, mate!

-At last, the end of the journey

-is within sight.

-It's not Everest perhaps...

-..but the Korean people

-are delighted when they reach here.

-It's an escape from the pressures

-of city life for them.

-For me, it's a big victory.

-My father would be very proud!

-The Korean Civil War of the 1950s

-was a war without victory.

-For three years...

-..there was fighting between

-the South and the communist North.

-One couldn't defeat the other.

-Here's the view from the summit of

-Aegibong in the demilitarized zone.

-It's no-man's land

-that stands between South and North.

-But it's possible to come here as a

-tourist and to gaze at the North...

-..where the leader, Kim Jong-un,

-dominates everything.

-It's 60 years since the war...

-..but South and North

-aren't an inch closer.

-Only a river separates them...

-..yet they're two worlds apart.

-It's a tragedy.

-In an amphitheatre

-on top of the mountain...

-..visitors can learn more

-about the tragedy.

-They can see some of the things

-that have happened since the war...

-..as the North's missiles threatens

-to destroy the fragile ceasefire.

-But those who come here

-don't need a history lesson.

-Lee Hanseol

-is one of the displaced persons...

-..North Korean natives

-who've fled to the South.

-The mountain on the other side

-stands above his birthplace.

-For people of our village,

-we'd go to the mountain to have fun.

-On the mountain,

-we'd catch rabbits, and deer too.

-Occasionally, a fox would come down

-and eat the hens.

-I couldn't catch the fox

-- but the deer - yes!

-Lee Hanseol's happiness

-soon turned sour.

-With thousands of others,

-he had to flee...

-..leaving his mountain and family

-behind him.

-Forever.

-I went out the house to the crossing

-point, but there were no boats.

-I was shivering all night

-because of the cold.

-In the morning, the boat arrived

-from the other side.

-My mother had given me three bags

-of rice and said, "Go quickly!"

-So many people were trying to flee,

-so I boarded the boat immediately.

-There weren't enough boats. Luckily

-I got on one and crossed the river.

-A troubling experience.

-Lee Hanseol is now 84 years old...

-..but he still feels longing.

-I can't put into words how much

-I miss my home and my family.

-No-one can imagine

-the longing I feel.

-Only I know.

-I long to return.

-I was born and raised there.

-So, it's my dream.

-From the start, the mountains

-have been a support for Koreans.

-From the mountains, they say,

-the gods awakened...

-..and descended to create

-the country's first kingdom.

-The creative people of Korea...

-..still look to the mountains

-for inspiration.

-The mountains support and embrace

-like a mother's arms.

-They offer balm and a shelter

-from the stresses of modern life.

-Conquering my fear of heights...

-..and getting to know

-the mountain people...

-..has opened my eyes to the Korea

-that's behind the headlines...

-..about the South's economy

-or the North's mischief.

-Some day, Kim Jong-un and his like

-will have gone.

-But the mountains

-will still be here.

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

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