Yr Alpau: Jason Mohammad Mynyddoedd y Byd

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-Mountains.

-The upper reaches of the world.

-A challenge and inspiration

-for humanity.

-The people of the mountains

-are tough and inventive.

-They've learnt how to live here

-and maintain a culture.

-Below, the world is getting warmer.

-The climate is changing.

-The mountains are not separate from

-the fate of the rest of the planet.

-From the peaks of Korea to the hills

-of the Rwenzori in Africa.

-From the Alps to the Andes.

-From the Rockies to the Himalayas.

-This is the story of living

-on the high parts of Earth.

-The mountains of the world.

-The Alps

-In the Alps are some of the

-most famous mountains in the world.

-Quite simply,

-coming here is a real thrill.

-The Matterhorn.

-What a mountain.

-I was raised in the city.

-As a Cardiff boy,

-mountains weren't a part of my life.

-They certainly weren't

-a part of modern life.

-But here, the modern world has

-entered the heart of the mountains.

-When it broke through and the two

-tunnels met, it was very emotional.

-Tunnels and main roads make it easy

-to travel through the mountains...

-..on the train or in the car.

-In very modern ways,

-people are thronging here...

-..to share in the thrill.

-If I said I wasn't a thrill seeker,

-I'd be lying to myself.

-For scientists, the Alps is a place

-to hold unique experiments...

-..at extreme altitude.

-A huge laboratory that demonstrates

-our huge debt to nature.

-The water towers of Europe -

-that's the Alps for you.

-As the ice melts,

-the Alps gives us a warning...

-..about the damage wreaked on nature

-today all over the continent.

-I always thought of the mountains...

-..as an escape

-from the pressures of modern life.

-Here, in Switzerland...

-..they've brought the mountains

-and the modern world together.

-I've come to see how the people

-of the Alps have done it.

-Living in Switzerland.

-Living in the modern world.

-The economy is buoyant...

-..and the eight million

-living in the country have plenty.

-Trains speed through the valleys

-and flatlands.

-Each one arrives and departs

-right on time.

-But, if there is one

-European country...

-..synonymous with the word

-mountains, Switzerland is it.

-Ever since the days

-of Hannibal and his elephants...

-..the Swiss Alps

-have been a barrier...

-..to every army that wanted to cross

-the continent to Italy in the south.

-No-one was powerful enough

-to move the Alps.

-You know what they say, if the

-mountain won't come to Mohammad...

-..then Mohammad

-must go to the mountain.

-Gerard Devenes

-farms in the mountains.

-He grows apricots and keeps bees.

-But, his passion is this,

-the alpenhorn.

-Tell me about the alpenhorn.

-The alpenhorn is a wood instrument.

-It's how we used to send messages

-from valley to valley...

-..like the Red Indians'

-smoke signals.

-Messages to draw attention

-or to announce a birth or death.

-It was shorter back then - and the

-shepherds used it as a staff too.

-Today, Gerard's not the only one who

-comes to the top of the mountain.

-They come from all around

-for an annual festival...

-..celebrating the music

-and traditions of the Alps.

-This is the main attraction,

-a 100-strong orchestra...

-..each one playing the alpenhorn.

-TRADITIONAL ALPENHORN MUSIC

-It's hard to believe today...

-..but 25 years ago, almost

-no-one here played the alpenhorn.

-An uncle of Gerard

-had to re-establish the tradition.

-People talked about the alpenhorn,

-but hardly anyone played it.

-But since then, there's been

-a great deal of interest.

-The music is more challenging today.

-We play old and modern pieces.

-We have composers

-with a deep knowledge of music...

-..and we're broadening the sound

-of the alpenhorn.

-By doing that, the sound

-strengthens the old relationship...

-..between the people

-and their mountains.

-Since learning the alpenhorn,

-I feel closer to the mountains.

-I don't want to leave the mountains

-- ever! I'm in harmony with them.

-The alpenhorn's echo is beautiful.

-I love life, the mountains,

-apricots and the alpenhorn!

-Today, more than 20% of

-the Swiss population are immigrants.

-Most of them

-come from other European countries.

-I wonder what place this festival,

-an eisteddfod of the Alps...

-..has in people's lives.

-Bravo! Merci beaucoup!

-It's nice just to wander around.

-It's obvious that everyone here

-shares a great culture.

-I hope this culture

-is open to the wider world.

-I talked about this

-with Karin Niederboger...

-..president

-of this year's festival.

-What is the mountain culture?

-Hard work, freedom and nice scenery!

-With a globalizing world,

-our young people need support.

-They're returning to their roots.

-They want to learn the alpenhorn,

-how to handle flags, how to yodel.

-They want to contribute

-to Swiss culture.

-It's crucial as we all try and

-live in harmony with each other...

-..here in Switzerland and beyond.

-A festival such as this, the music

-too, is an important foundation...

-..to the multicultural society

-we live in.

-Friends, we can't depend...

-..on institutions and politics...

-..for our unity and peace.

-I'm amazed and astounded at the

-variety and magic of this festival.

-Congratulations!

-Give yourselves a round of applause

-- and a big hurrah!

-Karin herself

-maintains the yodelling tradition.

-I sang from a very early age on the

-farm with my mother and grandmother.

-My parents did the milking in the

-evening, I did the washing up...

-..and I'd sing with my grandmother,

-and then a duet with my mother.

-KARIN YODELS

-Karin makes yodelling sound easy.

-JASON TRIES TO YODEL

-It's not.

-JASON TRIES AGAIN

-KAREN YODELS

-JASON TRIES AGAIN

-AND AGAIN

-You're very good. Excellent.

-First prize

-at the National Eisteddfod!

-Thank you.

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-A festival in the Alps.

-A opportunity to taste the music

-of the mountains, and the food too!

-One of the Alpine people's

-favourite food is the raclette.

-It's cheese roasted in a small oven

-and served with potatoes and salad.

-Of course,

-it's necessary that I sample it.

-I love food.

-Thank you very much. Merci bien.

-Well, this is the raclette.

-Mmm!

-Very tasty.

-Tres bien.

-I'm keen to learn more

-about how they make the cheese...

-..and about the farms that are

-the backbone of this tradition.

-Early next morning,

-I meet Sophie Bagnoud.

-Early morning for me,

-but she's been busy for three hours!

-Sophie and her husband Jean-Marc

-got up at four to do the milking.

-The work is a passion, not a job.

-As a married couple,

-it's not easy for us.

-Between farming on the mountain...

-..with the long hours involved,

-and other workers about...

-..our relationship as a couple

-comes second.

-The cattle

-don't live here all year round.

-Alpine farmers maintain a system...

-..that's similar to traditional

-farming practices in Wales.

-The cattle come to this

-highland farm, Alpage...

-..during the summer only.

-They're magical animals.

-It's a strange thing to say, but

-they seem to sympathize with us...

-..in the way they look at us,

-or rub against us.

-If we respect animals, we'll come

-to respect our fellow man.

-But we have to respect the animals

-first.

-This breed, Herens cattle, are known

-for fighting amongst themselves.

-The Queen, the dominant one,

-gets to graze the best grass.

-Every calf fights at a young age.

-It's in their nature.

-Over the summer,

-a hierarchy becomes evident.

-In every area, a fight is arranged

-to find the Regional Queen.

-Then, the national championships

-are shown live on television...

-..across the country.

-I'm not sure

-if it would work on Final Score!

-Every cow has a name.

-That's Magalie. Ayica is the Queen.

-She's stronger than all the rest.

-This is Bandit,

-a pleasant little cow.

-That's the danger!

-That cow got driven out.

-The Queen wins the best place in the

-field - towards the bottom normally.

-When she comes, the rest stay away.

-While Sophie cares for the cattle,

-Jean-Marc handles their milk.

-He does this every morning.

-He has to complete every step

-in the process on time...

-..in order to produce cheese

-of the highest standard.

-Through making raclettes at Alpage

-in the traditional way...

-..Sophie and Jean-Marc

-can command the best prices...

-..from the fashionable delicatessens

-once the cheeses have matured.

-The cheese is ready

-after 2-3 months.

-A little more for breakfast cheese

-or to have with your evening coffee.

-We sometimes have a

-very mature raclette, 12-18 months.

-It's salty by then. You have to have

-an aperitif with it - a quiet drink!

-The old traditions

-are still strong here.

-It's more than a century now since

-the modern world reached the Alps...

-..on the train.

-A railway that cut through the

-mountains was close to a miracle.

-But it wasn't always possible

-to lay a flat track...

-..despite building

-hundreds of bridges and tunnels.

-The Alpine railways are famous

-therefore for their cog railway...

-..which enabled the trains

-to negotiate the steepest of slopes.

-I'm on the most dramatic

-of them all.

-Tourists go on it

-to enjoy the stunning views...

-..on top of the Jungfraujoch...

-..3,500m above sea level.

-For the fit ones, there's a station

-halfway up the summit.

-They can walk the rest of the way.

-Today, it's cloudy

-and the forecast doesn't look great.

-It would also be a pity to waste

-the ticket I have to the top!

-Everyone on the train wants nice

-weather on top of the mountain.

-Well, everyone apart from one man.

-Hello. Good morning.

-Ghislain Motos

-is on his way to work.

-That work requires clouds.

-To reach Ghislain's office...

-..the train must finish its journey

-in this tunnel...

-..which takes us

-through the rock and ice.

-Here we are, the highest

-railway station in Europe.

-It's three times higher

-than Snowdon.

-The station buildings

-cling to the edge of the mountain...

-..just under the summit.

-But Ghislain's office

-is higher still.

-This is the Sphinx research station.

-This high up, scientists can do

-all kinds of experiments...

-..which wouldn't

-usually be possible.

-So, Ghislain's very familiar

-with these corridors.

-He comes to stay for weeks at a time

-to study the clouds.

-This is your room.

-Ghislain's a Frenchman

-but his research is done in English.

-He wanted to use that language

-to explain it all to me.

-The first night is not so easy

-because of altitude problems.

-But you get used to it

-quite quickly.

-You must have an incredible view.

-The problem is,

-we can only see clouds today.

-Ghislain's main interest...

-..is the small particles raised

-by clouds when we burn carbon.

-That's why he likes today's weather.

-For me, it's dream weather.

-What I want to look at...

-..are the interactions between

-the fine particles and the clouds.

-This place is around 40% of the time

-in the clouds.

-Ghislain uses the conditions

-on top of the mountain...

-..to look at how the carbon

-damages the climate for everyone.

-The particles I'm working on,

-we call it black carbon.

-They are emitted

-by combustion processes.

-So when we burn fossil fuels...

-..when residential heating

-and transport emit this particle...

-..we know that when they're emitted,

-that's pure carbon.

-At the bottom of the valley,

-the particles don't affect the fog.

-But, as they rise with the clouds...

-..they grow a skin

-which carry and store water.

-Hydrophilic coating

-is the scientific term.

-These particles don't influence the

-clouds or on fog in the valley...

-..but we're not sure

-what's the influence here...

-..in the clouds

-after 10 or 20 hours of transport.

-Then you have this hydrophilic

-coating that can uptake water.

-The presence

-of water-carrying particles...

-..changes the behaviour of clouds.

-That's what Ghislain's trying to

-measure at the Sphinx laboratory.

-We know that by emitting particles

-by pollution...

-..we influence

-the life cycle of the clouds.

-We can make them bigger, whiter

-and live longer.

-This influence

-on the life cycle of the clouds...

-..influences the global climate

-of Earth.

-Ghislain

-wants to improve the models...

-..used by scientists and politicians

-as they consider climate change.

-Currently, as far as the clouds

-are concerned...

-..the models are uncertain.

-My part of the job is to help

-to decrease the uncertainty...

-..with all scientists working

-together around the world...

-..to understand what's happening

-inside the clouds...

-..and being able to predict

-really well the Earth climate.

-I'm not a scientist,

-not by a long way...

-..but through talking to Ghislain...

-..the importance of his work has

-made things a bit clearer for me.

-I've learned something today.

-Ghislain's learned something too -

-the Welsh word for cloud.

-Cwmwl.

-Cwmwl.

-

-Well done. Keep it up.

-Before catching the train

-back down the Jungfraujoch...

-..I have one more experience

-waiting for me.

-Walking inside an ice tunnel.

-It's cold here, of course...

-..but the tourists love seeing

-the fantastic sculptures.

-It's all possible,

-even in the middle of summer...

-..because we're inside one of the

-most famous features of the Alps.

-The English word is glacier.

-In Welsh, it's "rhewlif".

-There's also an old Welsh word -

-alprew (alpine ice).

-That's exactly where we are.

-In other areas,

-the glacier's melting.

-This is the glacier at the head

-of the Rhone river valley.

-Dr Andreas Bauder

-comes here regularly.

-He's one of a team of scientists

-who measure this glacier...

-..and ones in 100 locations

-across Switzerland every year.

-A glacier is like a bank account.

-The balance is what matters -

-the inflows and outflows.

-The measurements prove that

-every glacier is decreasing in size.

-At the moment,

-there's more melting than freezing.

-Climate change

-is responsible for that.

-The temperature

-has been rising for 150 years.

-But the amount of rain is the same.

-It's no wonder

-the glacier's retreating.

-More ice is melting

-and less is forming.

-Today,

-meltwater is collecting here...

-..in a bright lake

-on top of the mountain.

-It then flows to the valley below

-along its long journey to the sea.

-Many kilometres down the valley

-is the small village of Gletsch.

-In pictures from the last century...

-..the ice extends

-to the village outskirts.

-Today, it's river water

-that flows here.

-The glacier has retreated

-to the head of the valley...

-..leaving a track of bare rock

-in its wake.

-The water towers of Europe -

-that's the Alps for you.

-The glacier's

-a part of the water cycle.

-It stores water and returns it to us

-when there isn't much rainfall.

-The ice melts

-and the water flows into the rivers.

-The largest flow comes from the Alps

-giving water to half of Europe.

-In the summer especially,

-we depend on the glacier.

-The Rhone glacier.

-Magnificent scenery.

-But a bleak outlook

-for the entire continent.

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-Be it summer or winter...

-..it's difficult to convey

-the stunning beauty of the Alps.

-It's no surprise

-that people are so keen...

-..to take advantage of any

-opportunity to see these mountains.

-From every angle.

-They are very, very beautiful...

-..but the Alps isn't a paradise.

-Millions of people

-live and work here...

-..and, of course,

-they play here too.

-Every year, there's more and more

-pressure on the Alps.

-The ski season fills Switzerland...

-..with tourists from every other

-European country and beyond.

-After the snow's melted...

-..the roads to the mountains

-are open to everyone.

-It's lovely having a wander

-in the bright sunshine.

-Going through the valleys

-and climbing up and up.

-It's easy to forget one thing.

-Going up so high is no easy matter.

-We're now in the clouds.

-Since the weather has the ability

-to change so quickly...

-..there's danger

-to every mountain journey.

-It's comforting therefore

-that experienced help is at hand...

-..if needed.

-When an accident happens, we depend

-on the professionalism of rescuers.

-But, quite often, behind that

-are more personal stories.

-This centre,

-Maison Francois-Xavier Bagnoud...

-..has been built

-after a sad experience.

-But it's an uplifting story.

-My son, Francois-Xavier Bagnoud...

-..was an aeronautical engineer

-and helicopter pilot...

-Tragically, in 1986,

-he died in a helicopter accident.

-In his memory, his mother and I

-founded a rescue service for all.

-Before he died, he talked to me...

-..about the need

-for an emergency service.

-The foundation is part of

-the national emergency network.

-The demand for it is high.

-In nice weather, with the mountains

-so beautiful, people will go there.

-And when people are there, accidents

-will happen - in summer and winter.

-Families out for a walk...

-..or extreme climbing -

-everyone is in danger.

-It's a mixed team.

-The helicopter crew, doctors

-and guides all pulling together.

-Modern technology

-in an ancient landscape.

-Bringing the modern world to

-the mountains isn't a contradiction.

-It complements.

-We profit from medical technology.

-Ultrasound, defibrillators -

-the latest advances.

-But it doesn't go against nature.

-In some strange way, the

-special atmosphere at the airport...

-..is obvious to all who go there.

-It's now 30 years

-since Francois-Xavier died.

-But, the presence of the young man

-is still here.

-However, Bruno acknowledges

-that one aspect of the work...

-..has been completely transformed

-since his son's days.

-Communication is the thing. Why?

-Because it saves time.

-In a mountainous area like this one,

-fast communication was impossible.

-There were no phones in

-the ski lodges, no mobile gadgets.

-You'd have to run down the mountain

-if there was an accident.

-The work reminds everyone

-constantly...

-..how easily things can turn sour

-in the mountains.

-The mountain doesn't forgive anyone

-who makes a serious error.

-But here we rise above

-our everyday lives...

-..and see things differently.

-So, we love the mountains.

-It's our land.

-We're at home here, but we also

-respect the mountains too.

-The mountains are a raison d'etre.

-They're magnificent.

-They can't be tamed.

-You have to live with them.

-Yes, the danger is there,

-but we practise for that.

-In modern terms

-of risk and benefit...

-..there's no way we cannot go there

-- the mountain is too beautiful!

-The beauty of the mountains.

-The danger of the mountains.

-Here, they are inseparable.

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-Mountains.

-If you wanted to travel

-from one side to the other...

-..they're awkward things.

-Sometimes, you can't go over them

-and you can't go around them.

-You have to go through them.

-2,000 years since Hannibal and

-his elephants crossed the Alps...

-..the mountains are still here -

-blocking the way to Italy.

-But, in 1998...

-..the Swiss voted for a new railway

-to be built through the Alps.

-Twenty years later,

-this is the Gotthard Base Tunnel.

-At 57 kilometres, it's the longest

-railway tunnel in the world.

-One of the principal engineers

-is Christine Ebenhoeg.

-Working in a tunnel is a challenge,

-especially for a woman.

-But the technical problems

-don't care who solves them.

-Working together

-is what's difficult.

-There was a team

-at both ends of the tunnel...

-..boring a hole towards each other

-from the north and south...

-..with the aim

-of meeting in the middle.

-At last, in 2010,

-came the big moment.

-When it broke through and the two

-tunnels met, it was very emotional.

-North and south met.

-After 57 kilometres,

-the tunnel line was more accurate...

-..than in any project of its kind

-in the history of construction.

-Through the tunnels' length, we were

-accurate to the width of my hand.

-The height was within

-the thickness of a finger.

-Across, it was

-only the length of a finger.

-That's the only difference

-from south to north.

-While her team moved towards

-finishing the work...

-..interest in the tunnel turned

-into an obsession in Switzerland.

-Faced with all kinds of

-interfering questions...

-..Christine turned to her family

-for help.

-As a mother,

-my family were always on my mind.

-My four daughters

-came to the site often...

-..and learnt about

-what was going on.

-If people asked questions...

-..I'd send them to the children

-for a full explanation.

-Last year, the trains

-started running through the tunnel.

-At a speed of 250km per hour...

-..they cross the Alps

-in a quarter of an hour.

-Building a tunnel protects nature.

-We're not affecting

-the top of the mountain at all.

-It's still peaceful there,

-and time stands still...

-..but if you're in a rush - well,

-the tunnel's the place to go!

-There are many paths

-through the Alps.

-Many ways to experience its magic.

-As you go higher, the modern world

-gradually disappears.

-Only the ancient peaks remain.

-A helicopter ride above the

-fashionable resort of Zermatt...

-..teaches me one very clear lesson.

-How small we are as people...

-..and how big the mountains are.

-As a sports broadcaster...

-..I'm aware that the word 'buzz'

-is used far too often in public.

-But that's exactly what this is,

-a buzz.

-Even here, there's probably

-something spectacularly modern...

-..hiding amongst ancient slopes.

-The Matterhorn

-dwarfs everything around it.

-But I don't think recognizing

-the place will be difficult.

-The Monte Rosa Hut...

-..a cabin for people

-who walk, climb and ski here.

-It belongs

-to the Swiss Alpine Club.

-Inside its aluminium walls,

-there's accommodation for 120.

-Sam Anthamatten is a familiar face

-in the Monte Rosa.

-He works here

-as a mountain guide...

-..for visitors

-looking for adventure.

-He looks after

-their health and safety.

-Climbing the 4,000-metre mountains

-is the aim of the people I guide.

-You must understand the mountain,

-but understand the person as well.

-It's a matter of combining the two,

-and making wise decisions.

-When guiding people here, you must

-give them your time and attention.

-Some are experienced, some aren't -

-you must adapt to every situation.

-There are more than 100 guides

-working in the area.

-Sam is the youngest.

-There's a lot of responsibility

-on young shoulders, therefore.

-I was raised in Zermatt - a very

-special place in the mountains.

-For me, it was one big playground.

-The mountains call me.

-They've steered

-the course of my life.

-But it isn't as a guide

-that Sam is now famous.

-He's a master at one of the

-most exciting sports in the world...

-..freeskiing.

-The biggest challenge

-is pushing myself to the extreme...

-..but staying within safety limits.

-Staying safe is what matters most.

-But I do go close to those limits -

-that's extreme sport for you!

-When skiing, it's as if

-everything happens in slow motion.

-Every second, there are loads

-of options - but I choose rapidly.

-Sam, are you a thrill seeker?

-If I said I wasn't a thrill seeker,

-I'd be lying to myself.

-Of course, there's an adrenaline

-rush as you reach the bottom safely.

-The mountains aren't a part

-of my life - they are my life.

-I need the mountains.

-I wouldn't be happy in a city.

-The mountains have shaped my life.

-I can't live without them.

-Throughout my journey...

-..I've met people

-who are loyal to these mountains.

-They respect the heritage

-of the Alps...

-..and work towards a better future.

-They want to protect

-life as it is now...

-..and discover what exactly

-will make it possible...

-..to live here tomorrow.

-It's been astonishing to see how

-Alpine people treat their mountains.

-With pride, respect and love.

-Above all, they revel in the thrill

-of living here.

-Of leading modern lives

-in an old, old landscape.

-They're determined to enjoy

-the benefits of the modern world...

-..and combine them with

-the mountains' exceptional nature.

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