Yorkshire Dales Natur Gwyllt Iolo

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-I've been birdwatching

-and observing wildlife all my life.

-But pressures on nature

-due to man's intervention...

-..have seen some species decline

-or disappear altogether in Wales...

-..over the past half a century.

-I'm travelling to England, to

-locations teeming with wildlife...

-..to rediscover species

-no longer found at home.

-Bolton Priory...

-..is the building behind me...

-..which dates back

-almost eight centuries.

-I'm only a few miles outside

-the town of Skipton in Yorkshire.

-I'm right on

-the southern boundary...

-..of the Yorkshire Dales

-National Park.

-The Yorkshire Dales National Park

-in the north of England...

-..extends from Settle and Skipton

-to Sedbergh and Richmond.

-It's predominantly an upland area.

-It's part of the Pennines...

-..a vast mountain range

-in the north of England.

-It's a deserted landscape

-with many exposed areas.

-Between the hills are scenic valleys

-such as Wensleydale and Wharfedale.

-I've come here at the end of July,

-during a wet summer...

-..when the rivers are swollen.

-This is the River Wharfe,

-one of the largest...

-..and most famous in the area.

-Further upriver, it's relatively

-wide, as it is downriver...

-..but in this section, it

-has to pass through a narrow area.

-You could swear that this river

-follows a geological fault.

-But in actual fact,

-over millions of years...

-..the water

-has carried stones downriver...

-..and they have

-gradually dredged the riverbed.

-Nowadays,

-some of the pools further down...

-..are more than 30 feet deep...

-..which is almost 10 metres.

-It's a very dangerous place.

-It's very slippery here and it's

-easy to fall in. Many have drowned.

-This section of the River Wharfe

-is called The Strid.

-Some foolish souls have tried

-to jump across the narrower parts.

-None of those

-who have fallen in have survived.

-You're instantly dragged below...

-..into caves and tunnels

-that are hidden underwater.

-It's the end of July

-and a tranquil time for wildlife.

-Most birds have finished nesting

-at the end of spring...

-..but a few

-interesting things are happening.

-These are common ducks

-that you see everywhere.

-They're eating an abundance of

-insects which fly above the water.

-They learn this from their mother.

-In the next pool is a goosander.

-The female has a brown head.

-Rarely do you see males

-at this time of year.

-They've long migrated

-to Scandinavia in spring...

-..leaving the females

-to look after the chicks themselves.

-Like the Beacons and Snowdonia,

-the dales are perfect for walkers.

-Eight million tourists

-visit the area every year.

-The main attraction in Malham

-is the limestone.

-The best in Britain.

-You can't come to the Yorkshire

-Dales without visiting Malham Cove.

-This is

-the most famous place in the Dales.

-And you can see why.

-It's so picturesque.

-It's an amphitheatre of stone.

-It attracts

-thousands of visitors annually.

-It has inspired poets.

-William Wordsworth came here...

-..as well as a number of artists,

-one of whom was Turner.

-They even filmed

-a section of Harry Potter here.

-But I prefer its history.

-At the end of the Ice Age,

-as the glaciers thawed...

-..a large river flowed down here

-and this was one giant waterfall.

-You can see where it was,

-right in the middle.

-You can imagine

-the water gushing down here.

-As the ice melted,

-the river disappeared...

-..leaving

-this well-known site behind.

-Crikey, it's handsome!

-Most of the Dales' uplands

-lie on limestone.

-This white stone is the

-landscape's most notable feature.

-Close to Malham Cove is a lake...

-..that's unique

-because of the stone's nature.

-Here's something

-you don't get in Wales' uplands.

-Very smooth water, alkaline water.

-If you consider

-the lakes of Wales' uplands...

-..the water is acidic,

-sour and contains peat.

-But this water isn't.

-This is Malham Tarn...

-..the highest natural lake

-in England.

-We're 344 metres

-above sea level here...

-..which is 1,200 feet.

-This is

-both a rare and unique habitat.

-There are only eight of these lakes

-in the whole of Europe.

-It's a great place for wildlife,

-if you come early in the morning.

-I'm coming back

-first thing tomorrow...

-..because there's a bird observatory

-over there in the woods.

-We'll see what we find.

-It's lovely sitting here quietly

-and seeing what's around.

-There are many wild ducks -

-dozens of them.

-There's also a roe deer...

-..venturing

-right to the water's edge.

-She has no idea I'm nearby

-because I'm in an observatory.

-She looks beautiful.

-She's in optimum health.

-She's reddish brown in colour,

-whereas the young are greyish brown.

-It's a wonderful camouflage

-when she has to leave her young.

-When they're sitting quietly,

-it's almost impossible to spot them.

-I've just seen something

-completely unexpected.

-I've come from Malham Tarn

-and come across a family...

-..of yellow wagtails.

-The grey wagtail

-is common in Wales...

-..but this is a very rare bird.

-This is the first time

-I've seen one in the uplands.

-I associate them

-with the lowlands, near rivers...

-..where there's grazing pasture.

-We're more than 1,000 feet

-above sea level here.

-But looking around me,

-everything the bird needs is here.

-There's a wet meadow over there,

-where cattle graze.

-Behind the wall is a hay meadow...

-..which is full of insects,

-and that's what they eat.

-The adults

-sometimes sit on the wire.

-They're very pretty.

-They're a vibrant lemon colour.

-The young are far less conspicuous.

-I've reached Arncliffe...

-..where the fictitious

-village of Beckindale was set...

-..in the original

-Emmerdale Farm television series.

-A Welshman lives in this village.

-Rhisiart Paul

-is originally from Penrhyndeudraeth.

-Good grief, I must say, you live

-in a very smart area, don't you?

-We're very lucky.

-We've lived here for 25 years.

-You're a farmer by vocation and this

-is what you'd expect in the Dales.

-Fields, uplands...

-..and dry stone walls everywhere.

-We're about 20 miles from Skipton

-in a valley called Wharfedale.

-There are fields at the bottom

-of the valley, as it were...

-..and we're

-750 feet above sea level.

-The fields at the top are grazing

-meadows that we use in summer.

-They're around

-1,200 feet above sea level.

-I'm not familiar with this area.

-I've only been

-a couple of times before.

-Are the places I must go and see?

-It's a very unique place

-in terms of its limestone.

-There are

-what's known as limestone pavements.

-We're sitting on a hillside,

-not far from Malham Cove.

-At the top of this dale is one of

-the three peaks, as they're called.

-I'm talking about Pen-y-Ghent,

-which is worth visiting.

-This is Pen-y-Ghent...

-..just short of 700 metres,

-and the smallest of three peaks...

-..which make up the Three Peaks

-Yorkshire Dales challenge.

-These are the limestone pavements

-Rhisiart referred to.

-The Ice Age's glaciers have scarred

-the landscape and limestone...

-..leaving flat slabs like pavements

-on the surface.

-This is a very rare habitat

-in Wales, unlike here.

-Here's an interesting fact for you.

-There are 2,500 hectares

-of limestone pavement...

-..in the whole of England, and half

-of that is in the Yorkshire Dales.

-Do you know what I like most

-about places likes this?

-The flower display in summer.

-Just look at all these colours.

-This is High Brae nature reserve...

-..and the warden

-works closely with the farmer...

-..who puts cattle on the land

-throughout the year...

-..though there are few animals here.

-They graze on the long grass...

-..which promotes flower growth.

-The purple flower is wild thyme.

-The small white flower is eyebright.

-My particular favourite is this -

-the common rock rose.

-It's very uncommon in Wales,

-whereas here...

-..it carpets the entire area.

-Since the plants

-have a chance to grow...

-..insects are attracted here

-to feed on the nectar.

-As a result, birds are drawn here

-to eat the insects.

-This is a male skylark

-with a prominent crest on his head.

-He's busy hunting food

-for his chicks...

-..that are hidden

-in a nest on the ground.

-This will be the last

-of two or three broods...

-..that were conceived

-way back in April.

-Rearing a family is a long-term

-commitment for the skylark.

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-There's nothing quite like

-a steam train. What a view!

-It's not only a steam train,

-it crosses the famous viaduct...

-..between Carlisle and Settle.

-It's had to climb all the way.

-This is the highest part.

-It's about to pass

-the highest mountain in this part...

-..which is Whernside.

-Unfortunately, it's hidden by the

-clouds today. I love steam trains!

-If you should ever

-go and see the Ribblehead train...

-..a remarkable area

-of the uplands...

-..is a stone's throw

-away from the viaduct.

-There is

-limestone pavement once again.

-But this is the best limestone in

-the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

-Everywhere I've walked

-in the dales...

-..has been quite barren

-with scarcely any trees.

-But this place, Scar Close...

-..is very different

-as it's a nature reserve.

-No animals

-have grazed here for decades...

-..apart from the odd rabbit.

-There have been

-no sheep or cattle here.

-Notice the trees.

-It's a very primitive setting.

-When you think about it...

-..it would've looked like this

-5,000 years ago...

-..during the Stone Age.

-The uplands

-would've been dense with trees.

-I can imagine people

-in those early days...

-..looking up at Ingleborough,

-that enormous mountain behind me.

-They would've seen more or less

-the same as I'm seeing today.

-Since limestone

-gradually melts in water...

-..pavements split over time,

-leaving hollows.

-In turn, they fill with earth

-and plants grow.

-As the earth isn't deep enough

-for the trees' roots...

-..they remain a miniature version

-of large trees.

-During the month of July...

-..butterflies feed on the plants.

-Because

-there are so many flowers here...

-..especially

-in the sheltered areas...

-..many butterflies are attracted,

-especially when it's sunny.

-It's a little cold now,

-unfortunately.

-But I've seen

-the common blue on a few flowers.

-I've also seen the northern brown

-argus, which I've never seen before.

-It can be found

-further north in Britain...

-..but no further south

-than this area.

-The prettiest of them all...

-..is this one,

-which has landed on my hand...

-..in order to keep warm.

-The dark green fritillary.

-When you see her up close like this

-and notice her markings...

-..you realise

-how pretty this butterfly is.

-You must be wondering

-why an orange butterfly...

-..is called a dark green fritillary.

-That's the odd thing

-about names for nature.

-There are many orange butterflies,

-and somewhere under her wing...

-..are green parts,

-which give her her name.

-Apparently, there are 6,000

-traditional farm buildings...

-..in the Yorkshire Dales,

-4,000 of which are hay barns....

-..that have been built

-in the middle of meadows.

-I love

-solid, old stone barns like this.

-I used to play in them as a child

-back home in Llanwddyn.

-I'd stand on the bales

-and look for owls' nests and so on.

-These are

-very typical of the Yorkshire Dales.

-You see them everywhere,

-but what's different about them...

-..is that they're in the middle of

-the fields, not attached to farms.

-Years ago, when you'd cut the grass,

-you didn't have to move it...

-..with a horse and cart

-back to the farmhouse.

-You brought it

-into the barn on the field.

-Then, in winter, when you needed

-fodder for the sheep and cattle...

-..all you had to do

-was pop into the barn...

-..pick up the hay

-and take it out to them.

-Many farmers in the Dales

-capitalize on the help available...

-..from Natural England

-to maintain the ancient meadows.

-In terms of preservation and beauty,

-it pays handsomely.

-Look at

-all the different colour flowers.

-What's nice about Wharfedale...

-..is that they still cut the grass

-in the traditional way.

-Not just that, they store

-the grass in the old hay barns too.

-In terms of the figures...

-..98% of Britain's

-hay meadows have disappeared.

-That's certainly true in Wales

-but not here in the Dales.

-Look at these flowers. Betonies.

-Knapweed.

-Meadowsweet.

-Common spotted orchids everywhere,

-attracting bees and butterflies.

-I've seen

-more traditional hay meadows...

-..in the Yorkshire Dales

-in the past two days...

-..than I've seen in Wales

-for many years.

-I've reached Wensleydale in

-the northern region of the Dales.

-I'm here to meet Claire Moore...

-..who's originally

-from Blaenau Ffestiniog...

-..but who currently lives in

-Simonstone within the National Park.

-I have to say, Claire,

-this stream is in a lovely setting.

-Do you come here often?

-Do you come here often?

-

-Yes, I come here almost every day...

-..with the dog

-and the girls swim in the pool...

-..when the weather's warm enough.

-It's a lovely place

-for children to visit too.

-Do you see a big difference between

-Blaenau Ffestiniog and here...

-..or is it quite similar?

-..or is it quite similar?

-

-I'd say it's quite similar.

-We don't get as much rain as we did

-in Blaenau but it's quite similar.

-I've lived in picturesque places...

-..and you tend to take them

-for granted, don't you?

-I walk here every day...

-..and I haven't noticed

-the things you've noticed today.

-It's lovely to be able

-to bring your family and dog...

-..to somewhere like this nearby.

-Wensleydale is

-the longest valley in the Dales.

-Before I end my journey,

-I have one more location to visit...

-..in Aysgarth, a few miles

-down the valley from Claire's home.

-I've reached the Dales' waterfalls.

-This is the River Ure,

-Wensleydale's main river.

-It's not often you get

-to stand underneath a waterfall.

-It's easy to see

-how this was formed.

-Where I'm standing,

-this was all soft stone...

-..that was washed away by water.

-Above my head is solid stone

-that can withstand the water.

-The water flows over this

-and falls directly below.

-This is nice over here.

-This is called hartstongue...

-..which is a type of fern.

-Behind that,

-tucked away nice and dry...

-..is a ball of moss,

-which is the dipper's nest.

-The entrance is there.

-It's a great place for a nest.

-There's a series of waterfalls here.

-There are three in all,

-and this is the lowest of them.

-In the rock under foot...

-..it's possible to see

-how the limestone was formed.

-This was once coral...

-..growing in a warm ocean

-hundreds of millions of years ago.

-Here in Aysgarth,

-in the north of the Park...

-..is where I end my tour

-of the Yorkshire Dales.

-Next time, I'm exploring Dorset

-and the New Forest.

-Two wonderful locations

-on the south coast of England.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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