Crocodile People of New Guinea Tribes, Predators & Me

'My name is Gordon Buchanan.

'I'm a wildlife cameraman.

'I've filmed some of the most dangerous

'and misunderstood animals on the planet.'

Oh, my God!

'But what's it like to actually live alongside terrifying predators?

'And raise your children with neighbours that might just eat you?

'To find out, I'm going to live with three extraordinary tribal families.

'They'll teach me to see these creatures

'from a totally new perspective.'

(Whoa! Look, look, look, look!)

'In the Amazon, I discovered the secrets of the giant anaconda.'

It is just simply a monster.

'In Africa, I learned to stand up to wild lions.'

(My heart is in my mouth!)

'Now, in Papua New Guinea, I'll enter the mysterious world

'of the crocodile.'

I didn't realise it was that big!

'Spending time with these tribes will be a life-changing experience.

'One that will transform

'my understanding of the animals we fear the most.

'In this episode, I've come to Papua New Guinea.

'Much of this island paradise remains unexplored.'

BIRDSONG

It's home to over 800 individual tribes,

each with their own languages and beliefs.

Some of them only recently stopped practising cannibalism.

'I'm travelling up the country's longest river

'to meet some of its most remote people.

'People who have an extraordinary relationship

'with the world's most-feared reptile: crocodiles.'

Crocodiles do have somewhat of a reputation.

I think for maybe a lot of people, they send a shiver down their spine.

The people that share this world with the crocodile

have done for over 40,000 years.

And I want to learn all I can about these animals

from the people that know them best.

'Over the next couple of weeks, I'm going to visit two remote tribes.

'I want to see how people can live alongside such dangerous predators.

'Many of these people are wary of outsiders,

'so the chief of a tribe of crocodile hunters

'has agreed to guide me into the interior.'

-Hello.

-Hello.

-I'm Gordon.

-You're welcome.

Nice to meet you, Kowspi. You'll be looking after me?

I will. I will. I'll try.

'Kowspi's headdress, the axe over his shoulder

'and a dagger made from his grandfather's leg bone

'are all symbols of his power and authority.

'And straightaway, he's got advice for me about crocodiles.'

-Really?

-Yeah.

We're travelling 300 miles up this river, the Sepik...

..to a tribe called the Ngala.

'The Ngala speak a language that has never been documented.

'And their whole culture is based on crocodiles.'

It's the first sign of humanity in hours and hours.

Just some dugout canoes there.

One, two, three, four.

My goodness!

Like something you'd expect to find

if you sailed up this river 500 years ago.

BIRDSONG

-These people, they got their own language.

-OK.

They're independent.

-They don't speak with any village nearby.

-Oh, really?

'Kowspi's told me this tribe of just 300 people

'have learned to catch fully-grown crocodiles with their bare hands.

'It sounds extremely dangerous.'

Hello. I'm Gordon.

Sakias. Good to meet you, Sakias.

'Kowspi's grandfather helped negotiate peace between this tribe

'and warring neighbours.

'And only thanks to this connection,

'Sakias and his brother, Charles,

'have agreed to show me what they know about crocodiles.'

He can't fall.

Him OK.

OK.

It's a ramshackle,

higgledy-piggledy hut

with more floor missing than there is floor present.

My nearest neighbour is a dead, roasted crocodile.

There are some scurryings up in the roof

and I think... Yeah, a few of the village people will drift in

and come and watch this strange visitor sleeping.

Which is fine by me, because I'm absolutely knackered.

'This has got to be one of the creepiest places I've ever slept.

'With a quick dram to settle my nerves,

'I'm glad to be zipping into my mosquito net.'

CHILDREN CHATTER, DOGS BARK

Next morning, I get a chance to see the remarkable way

these people have adapted to life in the swamps.

'The houses are up on stilts because in the wet season,

'the river rises several metres and floods the village.'

Looking down at the creek, there's loads of movement in the water.

Yeah, there could be crocodiles in there.

'There are two types of crocodiles that live in these waters.

'One is a freshwater crocodile

'and the other is the saltwater.'

The saltwater crocodile is the planet's largest reptile

and can weigh over a tonne.

They can live right out at sea,

but prefer to establish their territories in rivers and lakes.

Every year, mostly in small communities,

crocodiles attack hundreds of people.

Half of these attacks result in death.

'And yet extraordinarily, for these people,

'crocodiles are the very thing that keeps their community alive.'

Morning, morning.

'The Ngala hunt crocodiles for their meat,

'but they also sell their skins.

'This helps them buy fuel and other items, like tobacco.'

BARKING

'Everything else, they get from the natural world around them,

'including breakfast.'

OK.

Good climbing, Greg. That is quite impressive.

Ah, easy-peasy! Very good.

Can I try?

-OK.

-OK, wait, Greg.

'Helping out could be a chance for me to earn the respect

'of hunters, Charles and Sakias.'

Oi! Nearly. One more. Let me try again.

OK.

Go, Greg, yeah.

Ooo!

THEY CHUCKLE

-Very, very good.

-Yeah.

'In addition to their own language,

'the men also speak a kind of pidgin English,

'which makes it easier for me to understand.'

Yeah.

That's great!

'Having seen how it's done, it's my turn.'

-Oh!

-Do I look like a climber?

No?

GORDON LAUGHS

Right, OK.

Stretches. Ah! Ah!

'With the eyes of the tribe looking on,

'this is starting to feel like a test.'

Yeah, I'm getting eaten by the ants.

Ah! LAUGHTER

I'm covered in red ants.

No. I could get to the top, if I had to.

If I was dying, dying of thirst, I could climb to the top.

Yeah.

'I may not be the best climber,

'but having a go may have won me some friends.

'Charles and Sakias have promised to teach me

'how to catch crocodiles by hand.

'But to show me what I'm in for,

'they're taking me to look at some very large crocodiles.

'To live safely around here,

'you need to find them before they find you.'

How big?

Really?

-Really?

-Yeah.

'Just a few minutes upstream is a bend in the river,

'patrolled by what the men say

'are some of the biggest crocodiles in the world.'

-Yeah.

-And I can touch the bottom.

Don't want to hang around for too long in this water!

SAKIAS CHIRPS

'Sakias is imitating the call of a baby crocodile.

'It's a vital trick for determining the presence of an adult.

'And almost immediately, it works.'

(Whoa! Look, look, look, look, look!)

MOUTHS: Enormous!

'Charles explains crocodiles' bodies

'are seven times the length of their skulls.

'And he thinks this one's head is nearly a metre long.'

How big?

-Whoa!

-Yeah.

There is not a tail, the tail is still in the water.

-Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

-He's looking.

Maybe he'll... Yeah, maybe he'll come closer.

Him go down.

So, you think, Charles, if I was to swim

to the other side, do you think I'd make it?

No. You'd die.

THEY LAUGH

This is the biggest crocodile I have ever, ever seen.

This is great.

-These ones, you...you don't hunt?

-No.

-You don't?

-Yeah.

-Why...why not?

-Because it's too big.

-Too dangerous?

-Yeah, dangerous.

OK, yeah.

So if you keep the big ones, they can produce the crocodile factory.

-Yeah.

-GORDON CHUCKLES

Charles and Sakias aren't saying, "Yeah, it'd be great to hunt it!"

No, they just let these animals be, respect them

and know that that's what's going to provide them their future.

'It's incredible to think that these crocodiles

'will keep growing for decades,

'just getting bigger... and more dangerous.

'It's an amazing example of men and prehistoric monsters

'living side by side.

'Back in the village, the tropical heat

'leaves me desperate to cool off.

'The only place to bathe is the creek.

'They say it's safe.'

If I stick my foot in, it disappears within four inches.

So to come down here, pitch-dark,

dip my toes in the water...

..it's not completely stress-free, if I'm honest,

but the chances of a big crocodile coming up here

and dragging me into the water

are very, very, very, very, very slim.

At least that's what I say to myself when I come down here to wash.

Ah!

'Charles told me not to splash about too much.

'Splashing could attract crocodiles.

'This is the quietest bath I've ever had.'

I'm settling into life in the village,

but a big crocodile hunt is planned for tomorrow.

'Charles and Sakias are concerned about my taking part

'because these hunts are dangerous and injuries are common.

'To initiate me into the swamps,

'they're taking me in search of a crocodile's nest.'

Walking through a swamp like this,

you do wonder how close the nearest crocodile is.

I reckon within 20 yards from here,

there'll be a crocodile of some size.

'The nest we're looking for belongs to a little-studied species

'called the New Guinea freshwater crocodile.

'The swamp is full of insects. Perfect food for baby crocs.'

It's all really quite boggy and marshy here.

If you stand too long, you start sinking in.

'The razor-sharp grass gets so thick

'that we have to follow paths made by crocodiles.

'When we find a nest, the men are deliberately noisy

'to warn off the mother in case she's nearby.'

A-ha!

Ah, OK, OK. I see.

THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE TONGUE

Ah, yeah!

Can we look in? Look at that!

-Can I go in?

-Yeah.

-Thank you.

Mama crocodile not here?

'Mother crocodiles will often defend their nests aggressively,

'so Charles wants us to be quick.'

Open it.

-Wow!

-OK. So, eggs.

-How many do you think?

-Maybe 20 plus.

'The New Guinea crocodile is secretive

'and scientists know very little about it.

'Yet Charles's knowledge of their biology and behaviour

'is amazingly intimate.'

Why is that?

Oh, OK! I see.

'We take the whole clutch, but it's a sustainable harvest

'because this swamp is full of healthy nests,

'ensuring future generations.

'On our way back, we cross a patch of swamp

'which Charles set fire to earlier on.'

They burn some places so you can walk through it.

And that helps with the crocodile hunting.

To walk through all this thick stuff is quite hard-going.

But there's a kind of dual purpose to it, as well.

When you burn these areas,

it gets rid of all the grass, a lot of this vegetation.

So in the rainy season, when the river comes up,

there's all these open areas where fish can feed, fish can congregate

and they've got this stuff to hide in.

So it is, yeah, in effect, a massive crocodile farm.

'It's fascinating to see the Ngala

'and crocodiles using these swamps together.

'And the men are happy,

'now that I've seen the lay of the land,

'I'm ready to join tomorrow's hunt.

'The following day, I'm sent out with Sakias's family

'to get lunch for the hunters.

'This river is a highly productive ecosystem,

'full of nutrients and fish.'

Oh! Oh-ho! Catfish.

Every stretch of water you look at is kind of bubbling and boiling.

There's always something leaping to the surface.

So I suppose it's not a surprise that where there's lots of fish,

you find lots of...lots of crocodiles.

Ooo-hoo! It's a big one!

Thank you. Oh!

Ah!

THEY CHUCKLE I'm never coming again.

Ah! Well done, Edna.

'To bring good luck in the hunt,

'we share part of our catch with these kites.

'With lunch in hand, everything is in place for the hunt.

'Over the last few days, Sakias and Charles have given me

'a crash course in crocodiles.

'But now they're taking me deep into the crocodile's world.

'They're about to show me something most of us would think impossible.

'Tackling adult crocodiles with their bare hands.'

-It looks like we're going to war.

-Yeah.

GORDON CHUCKLES

'Before we enter the swamp, we stop in the shade to fuel up.

'The atmosphere is tense.

'Kowspi tells me the Ngala are able to touch crocodiles

'with their bare hands and feet.

'They believe that by being gentle, the crocodiles won't bite.'

-Is that so the grass doesn't cut your feet?

-Yeah.

-OK.

The plan is to go into a swamp and start feeling around

for fairly large crocodiles with our toes.

And...everyone's saying,

"Watch, you might cut yourself on the grass."

No-one has mentioned the huge jaws of a crocodile.

Yeah.

BIRDSONG

'After the meal, the eldest member of our party begins a chant.

'He makes an extra wish on my behalf,

'as I could be a liability to the hunters.'

'He chews a sacred plant and the spit from it will keep us safe.'

-OK.

-Yeah.

'From here on, there's no turning back.'

-I'm ready, I'm ready.

-OK.

I'm feeling strong. Feeling brave.

-Yeah.

-OK.

-Gordon?

-Yeah?

-I have a question to ask you.

-Mm-hm.

-I'd like you to try your best so you can grab one, please.

-OK.

-Or help them to grab one.

-OK.

-That's what I'd like.

-I'll do my best.

Yes, you have to.

'The swamp is a giant mat of floating vegetation.

'Keen to escape the fierce tropical sun,

'crocodiles seek out cool pools of water under the grass.'

OK.

'The men split off into different groups to search for the pools.

'The plan is simple.

'If we find a crocodile, we grab it.'

It goes down quite a long way.

I'm not sure the crocodiles are the most dangerous thing around here.

Gosh, it's actually...fetid! It really stinks!

I'm feeling with my toes

to see if I can feel anything that resembles a crocodile.

You can actually feel under the grass, there's a layer of water,

so there's a sort of void.

So even a big crocodile could be swimming about underneath

this carpet that's sitting on top.

Do you know what? I really don't want to find a crocodile.

The thought of actually...

of even putting my hand wrist-deep in this water

freaks me out somewhat.

Putting my arm all the way down,

it is...horrible.

It feels like the worst lucky dip in the world.

Unlucky dip!

'Every so often, crocodiles come to the surface to warm up in the sun.

'And we find one doing exactly that.

ANIMATED SHOUTS

'The crocodile is cornered.

'It may try to defend itself.'

They all think there's a crocodile in...in here.

He said it was a very big one

and it was very angry.

'The men are ready to hunt it with their spears,

'but if it really is that big, they may just leave it to breed.

'To make a decision, we need a closer look.'

HISSING

OK. He's found it.

He's very angry.

This is not like sheep farming.

-Look, look, look, look!

-Yeah, look, look!

Charles has managed to part the grass so he can see it.

So I'm just going to go forward...

to see if we can get a look at it.

Do I want to do that? Not really.

It's quite hard to actually see it,

so I'm hoping if I move this in slowly, it's not going to upset it.

Maybe get a bit of a better look at it.

(OK.)

'I've offered to help determine its size

'by using this camera on a long pole.'

It's quite hard to make out.

I can just see maybe one third of the snout.

'If I can see him side-on, we'll get an idea of how big he is.'

No, I won't touch him, don't worry.

I'm definitely not going to touch him.

He is a biggie!

'At around four metres, it's the biggest New Guinea crocodile

'Charles has ever seen.

'And to the Ngala, an animal of this size

'is better left to keep breeding.

'So we're off. And soon, they find another one.

'This time, it's underwater.'

ANIMATED SHOUTS

Have you got one?

'The men are in the water with the crocodile.

'They want me to get in, too.

'I'm instructed to feel very gently for the crocodile's head.'

OK. Is it OK to put my hand down the side,

so I can feel its side?

Yeah. Don't...

I will just be very gentle, and then...

-Just don't touch this!

-OK.

Don't worry, I'm going to be very gentle.

No, no, no.

Whose foot was that?

'The final step is mind-blowing.

'By carefully raising the crocodile, it becomes mesmerised.'

Whoa! I didn't realise it was that big! My God!

I would never, ever have thought

that there was a crocodile of this size right under my feet.

And the first thing we want to do is find where the head is,

secure the head, get the hands around it.

But you can just get a real sense of how powerful this crocodile is.

-Could be a mother?

-Yeah.

So, do you think she's got eggs at the moment?

In the stomach.

'At over two metres long, this adult female

'could feed the hunters' families.

'But the fact she's pregnant is a dilemma.'

There is a real respect for crocodiles around here.

You know, there's no... No-one's laughing, no-one's cheering,

there's no bloodlust.

It just feels very much like a necessity. Um...

Yeah, it's been handled with... It has been handled with

respect and care.

'After much deliberation, they've decided to let her go.

'Today, more important than her meat and skin

'are her eggs and her future young.'

This beautiful creature has had a reprieve.

Slide her down.

Ah! You are one lucky crocodile.

There you go.

ANIMATED SHOUTS

'There's a nervous moment as she's untied.'

I see. Covering her...covering her over.

OK, OK.

OK...and she's loose.

THEY LAUGH

-Great. She's moving, she's moving.

-Yeah.

OK. Good luck, girl.

That's a lucky escape.

'To most people, crocodiles are nightmarish creatures.

'Yet the Ngala have shown me

'it's possible to handle them without fear.

'These are the toughest people I have ever met.

'But their knowledge of crocodiles

'and their respect for them is truly inspiring.'

They have to hunt to survive, they hunt the crocodiles.

And a lot of that is, um...is brutal, I suppose.

But it's a very rare thing indeed, I think,

when there's a natural resource in the form of a wild animal

that isn't overhunted.

They haven't had a negative impact on the natural environment.

And I suppose that's just what, you know,

we should all aspire to...you know, to be like.

CHILDREN SING

'I've been on the river for a week

'and today, I'm leaving the Ngala.

'I've heard about a much remoter tribe,

'who Kowspi says have a giant saltwater crocodile

'that they consider to be their friend.

'It sounds implausible and intriguing.

'But before I go, Charles and Sakias

'want to remind me of the dangers I face.

'Saltwater crocodiles can be extremely aggressive,

'especially at night, when they're hunting.

'Just a few days ago, one of them attacked two boys

'out canoeing after dark.'

Come and see this big one.

No! Very big!

My golly...gosh!

-This one.

-This is the whole belly?

-Yeah.

-Maybe this wide?

-Yeah.

What happened?

'With the massive crocodile in hot pursuit,

'the boys just managed to escape.'

-Whoa! So, this is a footprint here?

-Yeah.

OK.

They are monsters. They really are.

Look at the size of that. It's like something from Jurassic Park.

Yeah. I didn't actually... These holes in the mud are so big,

I didn't realise actually that was footprints.

But when you look close, you can see the claw marks...here.

Then a big score. My goodness!

I mean, its feet are much, much, much, much wider than my hands are.

'Charles and Sakias urge me to be very careful

'as I venture further upriver.'

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

'I'm so grateful to the Ngala tribe.

'Their amazing skills and knowledge

'have shown me that people CAN survive around crocodiles.'

Bye! Bye!

'I'm sad to leave. And what I've learnt here

'makes me worry about going in search of

'an even bigger saltwater crocodile.

'But Kowspi insists.

'He says this next tribe's relationship

'with an individual crocodile

'will change my view of crocs forever.

'The journey takes us the best part of a day upstream

'to a tiny, isolated lake, home to the Maw'pa.

'According to Kowspi,

'this tribe have been sharing their lake with a crocodile for decades.

'Saltwater crocs can live as long as humans,

'and can grow to monstrous proportions.

'The biggest on record measure over six metres.

'Crocodiles of this size become dominant.

'They can terrorise communities.

'Often resulting in their being killed, or relocated.

'I'm feeling increasingly nervous

'about where my mission is taking me.

'Approaching the village, Kowspi tells me that until recently,

'this tribe were engaged in a bitter war with their neighbours.

RHYTHMIC DRUMBEAT

'Fortunately, they seem welcoming to me.'

Hey. Hey! Incredible!

Hello.

Ah, wow! It's amazing. Thank you.

I'm Gordon.

-James.

-James. Nice to meet you, James.

What a welcome!

It's the friendliest welcome. Thank you.

'Kowspi tells me the Maw'pa first saw outsiders

'less than ten years ago.'

So, how many people in Paru?

OK.

'It feels very special to be here.'

ROOSTER CROWS

'Next morning, I get to see the Maw'pa's small, but pretty village.

'Right beside it is a serene lake dotted with trees.

'It's surrounded by beautiful hills and forests.

'These people survive by hunting wild pigs,

'cassowaries and other animals that live here.

'Just opposite the village is a beach,

'where I'm told the monster crocodile I'm looking for

'sometimes basks in the sun.

'It could be anywhere in this water.

'And yet people are splashing around without a care in the world.'

I've been given this lovely accommodation,

a house that's half-built.

So there's going to be a floor here at some point,

but I've got the under-storey.

This is the best accommodation for a crocodile hunter

because I keep on looking out,

expecting to see the enormous head of the crocodile.

'From time to time, the tribe get together

'to test their hunting skills.

'And one of the hunters, Joseph, has invited me to join in.

'I'm excited to get a glimpse of the Maw'pa's unique culture.

'And I'm hoping to find out more about this legendary crocodile.'

Yeah. Nervous...nervous-looking children over there.

HE YELLS

'As a guest, it's my turn to go first.'

-Oh!

-Ahhhhh!

FAINT LAUGHTER

'The men take over to show me how it's done.'

Whoo-whoo-whoo-whoo-whoo!

'And Joseph explains to me why these skills are so important.'

CHEERING

'Kowspi tells me the best bowman is James.

'In his younger days, James killed 14 men from a rival tribe.'

Oh!

'But despite being such skilled hunters,

'no-one has tried to kill the crocodile in the lake.

BABY WAILS

'Joseph and the others have even given it a name.

'Masalai.

'It means, spirit of the water.'

What size?

Oh, wow!

And did anyone want to try and...try and kill it?

'Dominant crocodiles are highly territorial.

'So the Maw'pa's belief

'that Masalai keeps other crocs out makes sense.

'They also believe he keeps their human enemies at bay.

'Joseph says they've known Masalai for over 50 years.

'And yet in all that time, he's not attacked a single person.'

BIRDSONG

'I would love to get a look at him.

'So I head off in a dugout to see if I can find him.

'Big saltwater crocodiles have large territories,

'so he could be anywhere.

'In the lake, out on the tributary,

'or in other lakes nearby.

'There's another factor reducing the chances of my seeing him.

'By restricting the blood flow to essential organs,

'big crocodiles can hold their breath for over an hour.

'This allows them to creep up on prey,

'but also stay hidden from me.

'We pass a number of mud banks

'where crocodiles would be likely to haul out.

'My search goes on for several days.

'But while it's great to get a sense of this country...

'..the giant crocodile is proving elusive.'

It is quite easy to imagine that this crocodile is everywhere

and nowhere at the same time.

I've got this weird feeling

that Masalai knows that I'm looking for him.

'Then, on my last night, we get a tip-off.

'Apparently, Masalai was seen in a small lake

'very close to the village.

'Small canoes are more vulnerable to attack at night...

'..but it could be my last chance to prove Masalai exists.'

CHIRPING

SPLASHING

(A crocodile just splashed into the water in these bushes.

(It sounded big, but not massive.

(I got a bit of a fright there.)

'We're nearing the spot Joseph said they saw him.'

(There's an area just up ahead, right in front of me.

(This area is completely devoid of leaves and vegetation,

(which is very unusual.)

'To find evidence, I've got to get onto the bank.

'This is nerve-racking.

'He could easily be lurking in the bushes.'

I'm just going to switch the lights on, switch off the infrared.

Don't want to be walking about here in the dark.

I actually feel safer in the canoe than I do on land.

OK. You're not around, big croc, are you?

'I follow a gap to a smooth area

'which can only have been made by the weight of a huge animal.'

Just banks off into another lake.

Look, you can see here...

..the croc's been sliding off.

So it is...

It must be about that wide.

That is an enormous crocodile.

This has to be Masalai.

It has to be this huge crocodile.

The camera trap is on.

'It's great to have found such clear signs of him.

'It would be even better to get an image of Masalai

'with these remote cameras.

'Although I still haven't seen him, I can sense his presence.

THUNDERCLAP

LIGHTNING BOLT

BIRDSONG

The next day, the remote cameras reveal some nocturnal activity.

And a rare Victoria crowned pigeon.

But no giant crocodile.

'Joseph can tell I'm disappointed.

'To cheer me up, he's brought me a baby croc he found in the lake.'

Did you paddle it in the canoe?

GORDON CHUCKLES

He is great. Did you see...? You didn't see Masalai?

-No.

-No, no.

OK. Masalai baby.

I'll get a good, firm hold of you. Look at you, you're a beaut!

These creatures have been on this planet for 200 million years

and have changed very, very little.

In these jaws, there's about 68 needle-sharp teeth.

And as the croc gets bigger, the teeth get bigger

and the jaws get more powerful.

It's quite possibly why we fear them so much.

There's all this primal power.

It is beautiful. And it's completely relaxed.

It is a very chilled-out crocodile.

'This relaxed baby makes me realise something about Masalai.

'Crocodiles look inscrutable, but they're very intelligent.

'Masalai may have worked out

'that if he doesn't harm the Maw'pa, they won't harm him.

'It's a relationship based on mutual respect.'

I think it's time to put you back where you belong.

Go and find somewhere nice to hide.

OK, you're going to like this. You're going to like it.

How's that?

GORDON CHUCKLES Oh, wow, look at it go!

Good luck. That's really lovely.

Stay out of trouble.

'It's my final day in the village.

'James has been out hunting and has brought home a wild pig.

'In preparation for a farewell feast,

'the women want me to help gather food.'

BABY WAILS

'We're heading to Masalai's favourite basking beach.'

Here, safe and sound.

Thank you.

BIRDSONG

-Gordon!

-Yes?

Hang on, I'm foraging. WOMEN LAUGH

Mm! Mm, it's nice.

SHE LAUGHS It's very sour.

It doesn't seem to be five yards that we cover

without something being pointed out to me.

And it's fascinating, um...

and also it's just quite...it's quite good fun.

The ladies seem kind of really keen just to sort of show off

what they know about the forest.

WOMEN LAUGH

Is there anything sweet in the forest? Everything's sour.

-Yes.

-Yeah!

Are they gone?

WOMEN LAUGH They haven't bitten me yet.

'On the way home, the ladies show me a warning sign

'that tells other tribes to keep out.'

I see.

'This sign reminds me of Masalai,

'and the Maw'pa's belief that he protects them.

'So I ask the women what they think.'

The big Masalai pukpuk, do you ever see it in the lake?

-Yes. Yeah.

-Yeah!

Oh, really?

'They're adamant that he is dangerous,

'but confident they can predict his behaviour.'

Do you think the crocodile's in the lake at the moment?

'This lady, Susan, is sure Masalai isn't in the lake today.'

-Shall I swim across the lake and see what happens?

-Yeah.

No, I don't think I'll bother.

I'll...I'll...I'll sit in the...sit in the canoe.

Will you swim with me, or will you be in the canoe?

SHE LAUGHS

THEY LAUGH

You're supposed to think about it.

-Are you going to swim?

-Yeah.

-Really?

-Yeah.

-It's safe?

Swim, go!

THEY LAUGH OK.

Um...I don't feel massively comfortable doing this.

'The channel is only 100 metres wide,

'but that's easily far enough to attract a crocodile

'with our splashing.

'Every instinct tells me this is wrong.

'But I decide to let go and hope that Susan is right.

'I'm relieved to have made it to the shallows by the village.

'But I feel transformed, too.

'It's like I'm losing my fear of crocodiles.'

I never, ever imagined when I first arrived here

that I'd happily get into the water and swim across a channel

where one of these giants is frequently seen.

And I think it's just learning about the crocodiles

from the people that know them best.

That's what makes me feel...that's what makes me feel safe.

I could almost say these people see crocodiles as friends, of a sort.

A kind of relationship

that's actually quite...quite profound.

For the Maw'pa, the spirit crocodile, Masalai,

is everywhere, watching over them.

Protecting this magical world which they call home.

LOW CHATTER

'Susan takes me to her house to get ready for tonight's festivities.'

-Gordon?

-Yeah?

Ah!

OK. Nice.

OK. Thank you, Susan.

This is quite nice, just chilling and letting everyone kind of relax

and then just do what everyone naturally does. And it's very nice.

Susan's decided that I'm looking a bit scruffy

in my smelly shirt and my dirty trousers

and I need a little bit of local colour.

The villagers are sending me off with a celebration,

which they call a sing-sing.

'They're giving thanks to every single animal in the forest

'for providing food,

'and to Masalai for being their protector.'

THEY SING IN NATIVE TONGUE

Every part of their costume is...is taken from nature.

These are plants that have just been picked,

there's tusks from wild pigs,

feathers from cassowaries and different birds,

grasses making up their skirts.

Kind of almost feels like the people have just become nature.

Become one of the same thing.

'This place is a paradise.

'And for these people, it's a paradise thanks to a crocodile.'

It is a real privilege to spend time and live among people

that have such a close relationship with nature.

They have their own understanding.

And their understanding is very different to mine.

Much of it is just founded in their beliefs,

in their spirituality.

But I think at the very heart of that understanding

is a respect. A respect for all living things.

And they rely on this river and these waterways,

you know, for food, for shelter.

And I think the most amazing thing of all for me

is that THE most feared,

most dangerous reptile on the planet

is...is a good neighbour.