Seas Wild UK


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Right now, nearly 4,500 miles away,

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Matt Baker and the rest of the Wild Alaska Live team are witnessing

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the world's greatest feast.

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After months of being frozen,

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the arrival of summer brings a four-month rush to feed and breed,

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attracting eagles, sharks, bears and wolves,

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all triggered by the annual arrival of Pacific salmon

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to this vast wilderness.

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Wild Alaska Live is capturing this incredible spectacle.

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And we are here every day this week bringing you to the wilder places

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closer to home, right here in the UK.

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As a wildlife cameraman, I've travelled all over the world

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but the wildlife and wild landscapes of these islands holds

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a special place in my heart and are full of surprising wildlife stories.

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As a zoologist, I love getting out

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and about to the wilder parts of the UK to check out inspirational

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conservation projects that keep places like this, Cuil Bay, wild.

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Over this series, we're travelling from rivers to mountains,

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from forest to seas,

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and even celebrating some of our wildest cities,

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to bring you the best our country has to offer.

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The UK is a lot wilder than you might think.

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This is Wild UK.

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Each day this week, we'll be looking at a different wilderness in the UK.

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Now, today, we're revealing

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the wildness of the seas that surround our islands.

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I think we're all fascinated by the sea at some level.

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I mean, just walk along a seashore like this

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and you can make all sorts of little discoveries.

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That's right. They're tantalising clues, aren't they, to the wonderful

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wildlife that is hidden in our seas.

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Like out there, in the wild Atlantic Ocean?

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Our seas and coasts are home to a vast array of wildlife that

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few of us ever get to witness.

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Later in the show, I'm visiting a place dubbed "Eagle Island",

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to witness an inspirational wild recovery project.

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That is just a magnificent beast!

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I'm enjoying a jewel of a wilderness of the Northumbrian coast,

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home to some of our largest nesting colonies of sea birds.

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I'm sorry - we're just passing through.

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And we're joined by some familiar faces sharing their best past

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experiences of the wildlife that relies on our seas and shorelines,

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and the conservation success stories that have helped them.

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The only way I'm going to estimate the size of that beast

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is to swim next to it.

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But, first, a snapshot of our seas and our marine habitats in 2017.

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As an island nation,

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the UK is surrounded by the sea.

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No-one living here is ever more than around 70 miles -

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110km - from the coast.

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And with 7,500 miles - 12,000km - of it,

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there's a lot of coastline to visit.

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And it's quite some coast.

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From the vast, white sandy beaches of the Hebrides,

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to the dramatic and iconic white cliffs of southern England.

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The UK is home to 25 species of sea bird.

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They compete for fish alongside seven species of dolphin.

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And, sometimes, even whales.

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If you take the plunge,

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a dive can reveal hidden secrets of cold water reefs...

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..and wildlife havens on stricken ships.

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And it's not just wildlife.

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Our coast attracts millions of holiday-makers every year and

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provides a living for an estimated 12,000 fishermen and women.

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Whether it's the North Sea,

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the Irish Sea, the English Channel or the Atlantic Ocean,

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our waters help define our nation.

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Of that, you can be sure.

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Now, I've always loved beachcombing,

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and this place is proving to be a little treasure trove.

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And I remember, as a kid, when I found one of these,

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it used to be incredibly exciting.

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This is actually the egg case of some kind of ray.

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Now, they're known as "mermaids' purses".

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I always thought that was a wonderful name

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and if you're ever out wandering along the shore and you find these,

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it means that the creatures that laid them are not too far away.

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There are at least 39 species of sharks

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and rays that are regularly found in UK waters, from small cat sharks to

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sleek blue sharks, but not all of them lay eggs in cases.

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They're beautiful things, I always thought.

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Yeah, that's a magnificent specimen.

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Of course, the thing about the bigger sharks is that they give

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birth to live young, so they don't leave evidence like this

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lying around on the shoreline.

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If you want to find out about those sharks,

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you've got to go into the ocean.

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And that's exactly what the naturalist, Mike Dilger did,

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on the island of Mull in 2015.

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In the summer months,

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our western shores are visited by Britain's largest fish,

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the basking shark.

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Weighing in at up to seven tonnes,

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they sustain their enormous bulk

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on a diet of tiny animals - plankton.

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I've come to the Inner Hebrides to catch up on the latest discoveries

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of these animals and to try and get close enough to see

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how big these gentle giants really are.

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They may be huge,

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but they're actually remarkably difficult to find.

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So, we've come to Mull, one of the best places to see them,

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and teamed up with skipper James Fairbairns.

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James, the basking shark is a big fish,

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but they're surprisingly tough to spot.

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Yeah, I mean, that's the thing.

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They're not like a mammal, like a whale or a dolphin,

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which needs to come to the surface to breathe.

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They are only coming up to feed. They're coming up for the plankton.

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So, the chances are it might never come up unless the plankton's there.

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And why is this area so good for them?

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Well, we think a lot to do with it is that these waters are warmed

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by the Gulf Stream.

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There's nutrients being brought into these waters.

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Also, the areas where they're being seen are relatively shallow,

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so these nutrients are been pushed up to where the plankton is

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blooming and, of course, they're gorging on that plankton.

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But, plankton are constantly moving around because of the

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currents in the water, so just knowing where the sharks are

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most likely to be is no guarantee that they'll actually be there.

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This might be a huge animal, but look around me.

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It's still, effectively, a needle in a haystack.

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But, very quickly, shark-spotter Andy sees a dark shape in the water.

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Shark!

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Shark, right of the lighthouse!

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There it is! Oh, I've just seen...I've just seen the dorsal fin

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and the tail fin together.

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It almost looks like there's two sharks.

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It isn't, it's just one very large one.

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And we don't want to lose our chance,

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so I'm getting kitted up as quickly as I can.

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I'm suited up, I've got my flippers, snorkel and mask.

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The only way I'm going to estimate the size of the beast

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is to swim next to it.

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What a monster!

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They might look slow, but they can swim a lot faster than I can,

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and they appear very quickly out of the murk.

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It's heading right for me,

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but this giant shark presents no danger to me.

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These basking sharks have absolutely enormous mouths -

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up to a metre wide.

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They can filter the equivalent of an Olympic-sized swimming pool

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of water through their gill-rakers every hour.

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That translates into about 30kg of zooplankton everyday.

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I'm actually swimming in a living soup of basking shark food.

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I'm near enough two metres tall.

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From our drone footage, that makes this fish

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an incredible seven metres long.

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These fish can grow up to 12 metres in length.

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Basking sharks are true giants,

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and yet, despite scientists' best efforts, we still don't know exactly

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where they go when they disappear from our shores.

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There's something about seeing an animal coming towards you

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with a mouth that wide, that's THAT huge,

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that weighs seven tonnes

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that's memorable and awe-inspiring in equal measure.

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And the mystery that still surrounds these giants

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only makes them even more extraordinary.

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Magnificent creatures.

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You know, I try and get to swim with them every summer.

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And you never tire of that great, big white mouth coming at you

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under water. I know they're benign creatures,

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but they just feel enormous when you're in that situation.

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But this is the time for seeing them. Not just off Scotland,

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but summer is when the plankton blooms

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and you find them off the north coast of Ireland

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or the Isle of Man or the south-west of England.

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Now, I know I said earlier that these big sharks leave no trace on

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our shores. But that's not exactly true.

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Because there was a spectacular exception to that rule

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earlier this year,

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when a basking shark washed up on the shores of Cornwall.

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It can be quite sad to see a dead shark.

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But for scientists,

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this is an unbelievable opportunity for them to learn more about this

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really poorly-understood animal.

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The thing is, when a shark does wash up on shore,

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they tend to decompose very quickly.

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So the scientists had to act really fast.

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Of course, there's no bone in a shark. They're made of cartilage.

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So the evidence doesn't last long.

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No, no bones at all, not like whales and dolphins.

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Which is a shame, because bones can be incredibly useful and tell you

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so much about the animal.

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Not just about animals that live now,

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but about long-lost beasts that once roamed this land.

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As marine biologist Miranda Krestovnikoff discovered,

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as she hit the high seas off the east coast of the UK.

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This is the North Sea, 85 miles off the Suffolk coast.

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Today, I'm on a fishing trip with a difference.

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We're trawling the sea bed about 25 metres beneath this vessel.

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But it's not fish that we're after.

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We're hoping to catch something altogether much more extraordinary -

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mammoth bones.

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50,000 years ago, this body of water didn't exist.

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Now, the Suffolk coastline is in that direction.

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And the Dutch sandy dunes are over there.

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So, beneath me, right now, was once part of mainland Europe.

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Fertile feeding grounds, home to the Ice Age giants.

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I've been invited on today's expedition by one of the world's

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leading mammoth specialists,

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Dick Mol. Now, often in the movies,

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woolly mammoths get depicted in a very snowy landscape.

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Is that what it would have been like here?

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No, the Ice Age woolly mammoth was living on a grassland environment.

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This was like a Serengeti.

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No elephants, but mammoths.

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No black rhinos, but woolly rhinos.

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There were hyenas, lions.

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It was quite spectacular.

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This giants' paradise didn't last forever, though.

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Around 11,000 years ago, dramatic changes of climate took place.

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The ice was melting,

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and the mammoths' temperate environment disappeared.

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And at the same time, it causes the extinction of these big animals.

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Britain became cut off from mainland Europe.

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And this once-perfect habitat was drowned

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in what is now the North Sea.

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The remains of its past inhabitants are still here, though.

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As the first nets are brought in, the decks are busy with activity.

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And we strike lucky on the very first trawl.

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Oh, look here, look!

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-Look!

-Wow!

-Wow!

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-Look, can you see?

-Wow, that's amazing.

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-Wow!

-Fantastic.

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-Look at that!

-This one, oh...

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-That is huge!

-So, is this exciting or not?!

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It's absolutely incredible.

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I expected a few small bits and pieces, but that's absolutely amazing.

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Next job is to get the bones out.

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You must be absolutely bursting with excitement.

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This is very, very exciting.

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Can you put it over there?

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-Don't drop it!

-I won't! Oh!

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SHE LAUGHS

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It's not all about size, though.

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Look! A very nice heel bone of a female woolly mammoth.

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How do you know it's female just by looking at it?

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Because it's so small.

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In a male, it would be twice as big.

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OK. Now, what have you got?

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-Look here.

-Wow! What is that? That looks amazing.

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It's a mammoth's molar. Of a very young individual.

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I was going to say, I thought they were really big.

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No, this is a young one, this is a milk molar, so to say.

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-It's an upper molar.

-So it's like that?

-Exactly.

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-In the tooth.

-And this here is the grinding surface.

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Wow!

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And it's not just mammoth bones we're finding.

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Look at this beautiful specimen. That's a woolly rhino.

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OK, they were around at the same time as the woolly mammoth?

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The same time. They were fellow travellers, so to say.

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But, look, it is damaged here, here and here.

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This is eaten by hyenas.

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You can see the grooves here.

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Oh, my God, you can. You're absolutely right.

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That's just mind-blowing.

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That's a little story from the past there, right there in a bone.

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Throughout the next few hours,

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we pull up more and more of these wonderful artefacts.

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So, are these bones just lying on the bottom of the sea at the moment?

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Are they not covered with layers and layers of sediment?

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No, they are embedded in the sediment, in sand,

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and this sand is covered by a layer of clay,

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preserving the bones in these conditions.

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Here, sand is dredged away from the sea bed, deep in the sea,

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so that the big tankers can enter the harbour of Rotterdam.

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And everything which is heavy, like the mammoth bones,

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remain on the sea floor.

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And then we come with our nets and take it.

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You and me, we are the first ones who are seeing these bones.

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Nobody else has seen them before.

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I'm the first person who's ever touched that bone.

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Exactly, it's 40,000 years old.

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It's really, really special.

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All these bones are from around 30-40,000 years ago.

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And they'll be added to the team's collection from the Pleistocene -

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a period in time often called the last Ice Age.

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It's now one of the most complete collections in the world.

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The collection isn't normally open to the public.

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But today, The One Show has been given exclusive access.

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This is our storage.

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It looks like a cemetery, but it isn't!

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That's incredible! And this is all from the North Sea?

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-All from the North Sea.

-Over the last few years,

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this full mammoth skeleton has been taking shape.

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This is phenomenal.

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Are these all from one individual, then?

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No, no, these are bones of many, many different individuals.

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You need to have thousands and thousands of bones,

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all remains of animals of the same sex, the same size and the same age.

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OK, so what sex and what age have we got here?

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This is a female of about 45 years at time of death.

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And tell me, what's it like when you find one of your missing bones?

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Oh, it gives you a lot of excitement!

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Because you find a missing part, it's part of a puzzle.

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So, yeah, when you find a tiny little tail vertebra, it makes me happy.

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Dick hopes this epic jigsaw and all the other Ice Age animal bones

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will educate people about the importance

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of the North Sea's vibrant past.

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I've now got a real sense of what life was once like on the land that

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stretched between here and the British Isles -

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a place home to an abundance of wildlife

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more spectacular than anything we can see today.

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Our seas and coastlines are really magical places.

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But we can't afford to take them for granted.

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But throughout this series,

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we are witnessing the extraordinary lengths that some individuals go to

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to conserve our wildlife and our wild places.

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One particularly successful conservation project

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involved Britain's largest bird of prey.

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In the 19th century in Scotland,

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the white-tailed sea eagle was a relatively common sight.

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But by 1918, it had been hunted and persecuted into extinction.

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However, a reintroduction project began in 1975 on the island of Rum.

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Neighbouring island Mull is now a hot spot for these birds.

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And just a few weeks ago, Lucy paid them a visit.

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Famed for its wild, rugged scenery,

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the island of Mull is a haven for wildlife.

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And thanks to an amazing reintroduction project,

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sea eagles have been nesting here for the last 40 years.

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I joined the RSPB's David Sexton to track down one of the nests.

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So, this is the spot.

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So if you look just down here through the gap into the forestry trees,

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there's one tree on its own, and the nest is about halfway down. Got it?

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Yes! OK, OK.

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So those birds that you are looking at are chicks.

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No!

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They are, like, eight or nine weeks old now.

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So they're fully feathered.

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They're just a week off being fully grown.

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And it's great to get to this stage.

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Because, often eagles in the nest,

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one chick hatches and might kill the sibling.

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The other... They don't often raise two.

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But sea eagles do more often than other eagles.

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And fingers crossed, all being well for the next two or three weeks,

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they'll have made it and they'll take their first flight,

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and that'll be that, they're on their way.

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And if you just go at about 11 o'clock from the nest up onto the branch,

0:19:350:19:39

there's the adult bird, sitting there.

0:19:390:19:41

-Yes!

-Got it?

-Yeah.

0:19:410:19:44

Amazing pale head, big yellow beak, and that amazing white tail.

0:19:440:19:50

And then those talons are, presumably, the size of your hands.

0:19:500:19:53

They are, and it's just phenomenal when you see them up close.

0:19:530:19:57

Eagles are really adaptable.

0:19:570:19:59

They'd be as happy in the marshes and the fens of East Anglia as they

0:19:590:20:04

are in the mountains and sea lochs of Scotland.

0:20:040:20:07

Given time and space and a bit of patience,

0:20:070:20:10

they will start to reoccupy that former range.

0:20:100:20:14

To see them in action for myself, I've joined Martin Keevers,

0:20:140:20:18

who is a bit of an expert when it comes to getting close encounters.

0:20:180:20:22

All he needs is a few mackerel to lure them in.

0:20:220:20:26

Martin's just choosing a fish to throw to our eagle, in the hope

0:20:260:20:32

that she'll come and catch it.

0:20:320:20:33

In she comes! Gosh, she's a magnificently big bird!

0:20:380:20:42

Wow! That's fantastic, isn't it?

0:20:420:20:45

-It's beautiful.

-You must never get bored of your job.

0:20:450:20:48

Oh, never. I never get tired of seeing that, ever, no.

0:20:480:20:50

So, is there a danger that, by feeding them, you'll change their behaviour?

0:20:500:20:53

If you feed them too much, then yes, it probably would do.

0:20:530:20:56

But we take advice from the RSPB and Scottish National Heritage

0:20:560:20:59

of an amount that we can give them

0:20:590:21:00

so that it won't change their natural behaviour.

0:21:000:21:02

When sea eagles have young to feed,

0:21:050:21:07

they would naturally be taking up to eight fish per day.

0:21:070:21:11

Martin knows this bird well.

0:21:110:21:12

And this year, he has one chick on the nest.

0:21:120:21:15

-Do you know that bird?

-We've done it for a couple of years now.

0:21:180:21:21

Yeah, he's not the cleanest and smartest-dressed eagle in the world,

0:21:210:21:25

so we've given him the nickname of Compo, but he's a fantastic bird,

0:21:250:21:28

he's a good dad. He's got a chick this year.

0:21:280:21:30

Obviously he's taking that fish back now to feed his youngsters.

0:21:300:21:33

And we've just got another eagle coming on the back of the boat now.

0:21:330:21:36

-Is that Compo?

-Our old friend, Compo.

-Compo's coming back for more?

0:21:360:21:39

Compo's not so shabby, actually, he's coming back for seconds.

0:21:390:21:43

Do you want to see if you can give him a fish?

0:21:430:21:45

I'd love to!

0:21:450:21:47

All right, here we go, Compo.

0:21:470:21:49

In he comes!

0:21:520:21:53

Cruising, with ease.

0:21:530:21:56

Yes!

0:21:580:22:00

That is so cool!

0:22:020:22:04

I just fed some Sea Eagle chicks.

0:22:060:22:08

That is just a great feeling.

0:22:080:22:11

Absolutely wonderful.

0:22:110:22:14

These majestic birds have made a great comeback since their reintroduction

0:22:140:22:18

over 40 years ago.

0:22:180:22:20

And their future here and across the UK is looking bright.

0:22:200:22:24

So, the sea eagle population here in Mull is actually self-sustaining.

0:22:240:22:29

And so that means that the wildlife here in Mull is absolutely thriving.

0:22:320:22:37

To be able to sustain a bird like that...

0:22:370:22:40

This is a truly wild place.

0:22:400:22:43

They really are such wonderful birds and isn't it great to have them back?

0:22:480:22:52

But, you know, we're lucky to live in a place that's got such a varied

0:22:520:22:55

coastline and has proved inspirational for photographers.

0:22:550:22:59

And many of you have been sharing your photographs and experiences with us

0:22:590:23:03

at the hashtag #MyWilderness.

0:23:030:23:06

Like this view of Arran from Seamill Beach in West Kilbride in Scotland.

0:23:060:23:11

And this of Chanters Cave on Ramsey Island in Wales.

0:23:110:23:15

Or this beauty from the Hebridean island of South Uist.

0:23:150:23:20

Now, please do keep sharing your wild experiences online with us

0:23:210:23:24

using the hashtag #MyWilderness.

0:23:240:23:27

Now, Alaska's wilderness is being revealed all this week on BBC One

0:23:270:23:31

and online and our crews have been out there travelling huge distances

0:23:310:23:36

to find the very best wildlife there is on offer.

0:23:360:23:39

And on tonight's show, we'll be introducing you to the families

0:23:390:23:42

of orcas and the scientists that are researching them.

0:23:420:23:46

To give you a taster, Wild UK have gone behind the scenes

0:23:460:23:50

to see just how do the crew get such stunning shots of orcas in the wild.

0:23:500:23:55

To capture orcas, the Wild Alaska team travelled to Kenai Fjords.

0:23:580:24:03

Their base for this five-day expedition is the Dora,

0:24:030:24:07

a fishing and research vessel which the seven-strong team first have to

0:24:070:24:11

load up with over 25 boxes of hi-tech equipment

0:24:110:24:15

they'll need in order to capture the close-up views

0:24:150:24:18

of orca they're after.

0:24:180:24:20

Director Tom Paine explains the plan.

0:24:210:24:24

We travelled 26 hours, I think it was, yesterday.

0:24:240:24:28

So, two flights to get here. A bit of a drive. We had about five hours' sleep last night,

0:24:280:24:32

and the plan was to get on the water tomorrow,

0:24:320:24:34

but the weather's looking a bit dodgy, so we're not sure.

0:24:340:24:36

We're going to make a last-minute call on that.

0:24:360:24:38

But apparently they're seeing orca, which is what we're here to do.

0:24:380:24:41

So if we can film the orca, we'll be happy, really.

0:24:410:24:44

The team are planning to film using a complicated stabilised camera

0:24:450:24:49

system to capture the orcas in smooth slow-motion,

0:24:490:24:52

and which the cameraman needs to set up on deck

0:24:520:24:56

before they can leave harbour.

0:24:560:24:58

Despite all the hard work, if the weather and sea state don't allow it, the team won't get out at all.

0:24:580:25:04

And right now it's the wind that's concerning Captain Mike Brittain.

0:25:040:25:08

The wind is supposed to be blowing, like, 25 out of the north,

0:25:080:25:11

which can be challenging in some respects, especially for filming.

0:25:110:25:15

A little rocky. There will be spots where we'll have the lee of the land, so that it's calmer.

0:25:150:25:20

But it's going to be a little challenging.

0:25:200:25:24

Thankfully, so far, the weather is on their side.

0:25:280:25:31

For now. And with the boat packed and camera ready,

0:25:310:25:34

the team head out into the Pacific Ocean in search of orca.

0:25:340:25:38

The team are hoping to make the most of the opportunity of good weather.

0:25:420:25:46

And it's not long before orca research scientist, Dan,

0:25:460:25:50

has them in his sights.

0:25:500:25:52

They have been fishing in general.

0:25:520:25:55

Right now it's hard to say if they're just travelling to another

0:25:550:25:58

spot to try fishing again. But there was a chase down here.

0:25:580:26:01

Presumably a salmon.

0:26:010:26:03

As we saw the rooster-tailing dorsal fin through the water.

0:26:030:26:06

Dan knows these orca well.

0:26:080:26:10

But even with expert guidance,

0:26:100:26:12

the team are finding it very difficult to get anything on camera.

0:26:120:26:15

So, it's just up...there you go, nine o'clock.

0:26:170:26:19

One in front has just come up again and gone back down.

0:26:190:26:22

This one we've been following recently never fully comes up.

0:26:220:26:25

You just get half a fin.

0:26:250:26:27

This one was off turning behind you.

0:26:290:26:31

He's staying there behind us.

0:26:310:26:33

-Whoa, whoa, whoa.

-Can you see him there in the water?

0:26:330:26:35

There he is. Nine o'clock.

0:26:350:26:37

How annoying.

0:26:380:26:40

Frustratingly also, if I've seen the fin already, it's too late,

0:26:400:26:43

I have to have it before the fin breaks the surface.

0:26:430:26:46

It's not easy, this.

0:26:470:26:49

And to top it all off, there's a problem with the hi-tech camera.

0:26:510:26:54

My camera's stopped working.

0:26:540:26:56

One of the problems is that the camera inside this box gets very hot.

0:26:560:27:00

But, as with most things,

0:27:000:27:01

the only way to find out is you turn it off and on again!

0:27:010:27:04

In the end, the broken camera becomes the least of the team's problems.

0:27:070:27:11

The next day, the crew are stuck in harbour.

0:27:130:27:16

The weather has taken a turn for the worse,

0:27:160:27:18

and the equipment needs extra protection.

0:27:180:27:21

The following day, the sun is out and so is the team

0:27:250:27:28

in search of orca.

0:27:280:27:30

Oh, nine o'clock, 200 yards, 300 yards.

0:27:320:27:36

Oh, yeah, I got one.

0:27:380:27:40

Oh!

0:27:400:27:41

Dan's work involves identifying the individual orcas,

0:27:420:27:46

to help keep a record of their movements.

0:27:460:27:48

And for that he needs close-up images of their dorsal fins.

0:27:480:27:51

And that's also what the crew are trying to capture.

0:27:530:27:56

The conditions may be perfect,

0:27:560:27:57

but the orcas are still proving a bit tricky.

0:27:570:28:00

It's quite hard, this. You know they're there, but you can't see a thing.

0:28:000:28:03

And suddenly they're off. They may be sharp,

0:28:030:28:06

they may be in the frame, they may be on the edge of frame.

0:28:060:28:08

Slowly but surely, Ted and the team start to get the shots they were after -

0:28:100:28:14

orcas in slow motion, patrolling the seas.

0:28:140:28:17

The last couple of days have been a bit of a nightmare.

0:28:180:28:21

We've enjoyed the experience, but the weather's been awful,

0:28:210:28:24

the swell's been awful,

0:28:240:28:25

and now, finally, we've got a nice weather day and we're actually getting what we came here for.

0:28:250:28:30

So, the satisfaction is huge.

0:28:300:28:31

Just fingers crossed we can stay with these guys for long enough,

0:28:310:28:34

and maybe their behaviour will change, or maybe we'll see something different, that's the ideal.

0:28:340:28:38

Who knows?

0:28:380:28:39

It's been five long days.

0:28:400:28:42

But the crew and scientist Dan have finally got what they came for.

0:28:420:28:46

Now, the perseverance of the orca team really did pay off,

0:28:540:28:57

and they got some extraordinary footage, didn't they?

0:28:570:29:00

And there's more of that tonight on BBC One, 8pm, on Wild Alaska Live.

0:29:000:29:06

Now, you don't have to go to Alaska to see orcas, do you, Colin?

0:29:060:29:10

No, you don't. They're also found in UK waters,

0:29:100:29:13

particularly off the northern islands,

0:29:130:29:16

places like Shetland and Orkney.

0:29:160:29:18

And earlier in the year, they came much closer than usual

0:29:180:29:22

and gave the local residents quite a surprise.

0:29:220:29:25

This family pod turned up just off the shore and was captured on a

0:29:260:29:29

mobile phone by diver and photographer Richard Shucksmith.

0:29:290:29:33

It just goes to show that Britain is a lot wilder than you might think

0:29:360:29:39

and to experience it you just need to get out there

0:29:390:29:42

and find the wild places near you.

0:29:420:29:44

But if you need some extra inspiration,

0:29:440:29:46

then here's our guide to where the wild things are.

0:29:460:29:51

40% of the world's population of grey seals breed

0:29:570:30:01

on Britain's beaches.

0:30:010:30:03

The end of September to December is the best time to see pups

0:30:050:30:09

as they take their first swimming lessons, supervised by mum.

0:30:090:30:13

The Moray Firth, just north of Inverness in Scotland,

0:30:160:30:19

is home to Britain's largest resident population

0:30:190:30:22

of bottlenose dolphins, 130 strong.

0:30:220:30:25

We have five species of jellyfish in the UK

0:30:300:30:34

and the most often spotted is the moon jellyfish.

0:30:340:30:36

The south-west seems to be where they are seen the most.

0:30:380:30:41

Autumn brings more visitors.

0:30:430:30:45

This breathtaking murmuration of starlings in Aberystwyth has

0:30:450:30:48

gathered from as far afield as Russia.

0:30:480:30:51

It's a sight repeated in countless seaside resorts

0:30:510:30:54

all around the coast.

0:30:540:30:57

The coast of Northumberland in spring and summer

0:31:050:31:07

plays host to thousands of sea birds, including the shag.

0:31:070:31:11

You can follow their breeding behaviour,

0:31:120:31:15

including the entertaining race to make their nests with a limited supply of resources.

0:31:150:31:19

Yes, we really do have some of the great sea bird spectacles here in

0:31:260:31:30

the UK, but Alaska's not so shabby, you know.

0:31:300:31:33

They've got about double the amount of breeding pairs

0:31:330:31:36

that we have from about the same amount of species,

0:31:360:31:40

but they are six times larger than the UK.

0:31:400:31:43

If you want to go and see one of these sea bird colonies for yourself,

0:31:430:31:48

one of the really great ones lies just off the coast of Northumberland.

0:31:480:31:51

I have always wanted to go there and I got the opportunity

0:31:510:31:55

just a couple of weeks ago.

0:31:550:31:58

Lying off the Northumberland coast are the rugged volcanic rocks

0:32:000:32:03

of the Farne Islands.

0:32:030:32:05

Thanks to their location in the North Sea,

0:32:050:32:07

this wild landscape is a haven for sea birds,

0:32:070:32:11

with over 150,000 nesting here at the height of the breeding season.

0:32:110:32:16

I have never been to the Farnes before.

0:32:160:32:18

I can't wait to get out exploring

0:32:180:32:20

but I've been warned to bring a hat.

0:32:200:32:23

The first to greet me here are the Arctic terns

0:32:290:32:32

and they're not entirely pleased to see me.

0:32:320:32:34

The reason they are so aggressive is they are just

0:32:340:32:37

trying to defend their youngsters.

0:32:370:32:39

Some of them are on eggs, some of them have little chicks.

0:32:390:32:42

They have these beautiful blood-red bills.

0:32:440:32:47

It is actually incredibly off-putting

0:32:470:32:50

and that's why they do it.

0:32:500:32:51

Their bites don't really hurt in any way but when they nest in a colony

0:32:510:32:57

and they scream and they fly about in your face,

0:32:570:33:00

they see me as a potential predator.

0:33:000:33:02

Hello.

0:33:030:33:04

I'm sorry, we're just passing through.

0:33:040:33:07

Beautiful creatures.

0:33:080:33:10

Thousands of them here.

0:33:110:33:12

And you don't have to look far to see the nests they're protecting.

0:33:130:33:17

If you can stop for a moment and look around,

0:33:170:33:20

you'll see that there are lots of nests here.

0:33:200:33:23

Some of them are still on eggs, some are little chicks,

0:33:230:33:25

some with big chicks, but they're absolutely everywhere.

0:33:250:33:30

It is very hard to figure out who belongs to who.

0:33:300:33:33

With just over 1,500 pairs,

0:33:360:33:38

the Arctic terns are doing really well here

0:33:380:33:41

and they are not the only ones.

0:33:410:33:44

Puffins are another of the island's most famous residents.

0:33:440:33:47

They come here to breed,

0:33:470:33:49

returning to the same underground burrows every year.

0:33:490:33:52

Jennifer Clark from the National Trust has been monitoring these

0:33:520:33:55

characterful birds and checking the progress of their youngsters.

0:33:550:33:59

Are you feeling anything?

0:34:000:34:02

-Oh.

-Have you got something?

0:34:020:34:04

Oh, I just felt a warm body.

0:34:040:34:06

Hello.

0:34:060:34:08

-I've got it.

-What have you got?

0:34:080:34:11

There we go, it's a puffin.

0:34:110:34:12

-Well done.

-Look at that.

0:34:120:34:14

That's great. So we'll just pop its wings in.

0:34:140:34:16

It's quite a big one, that one, so that's maybe got another week

0:34:160:34:19

or two before it's going to leave the burrow.

0:34:190:34:21

It's still very fluffy.

0:34:210:34:23

They can't go into the sea whilst they are fluffy like this because

0:34:230:34:25

the downy feathers will become waterlogged.

0:34:250:34:28

It needs to wait until it loses all that down.

0:34:280:34:30

How long does it take them from egg to leaving?

0:34:300:34:33

It's as an egg for 40 days and then it is a chick in the burrow

0:34:330:34:35

for 40 days before it leaves

0:34:350:34:37

and it will leave under the cover of darkness because

0:34:370:34:39

it is much safer to do that, less likely to get attacked by gulls,

0:34:390:34:43

and it will go straight into the water,

0:34:430:34:45

straight out to sea and that will be them until they are ready to breed

0:34:450:34:49

in a few years' time and they will come back to land again.

0:34:490:34:52

What is it being fed on?

0:34:520:34:53

It is being fed on sand eels,

0:34:530:34:55

and you will see puffins with their beaks jam-packed

0:34:550:34:57

full of sand eels, and they have to run a bit of a gauntlet

0:34:570:35:00

through the black-headed gulls because they will try and steal them

0:35:000:35:03

off them before they get to the burrow.

0:35:030:35:05

I'll let you put this little one back in the burrow.

0:35:050:35:07

And you see, that's the sea out there.

0:35:070:35:10

That's where you're going to spend the rest of your life, yeah?

0:35:100:35:13

The Farnes are home to an incredible 80,000 puffins.

0:35:150:35:19

Like other sea birds here, they have been thriving thanks to the

0:35:190:35:22

conservation efforts of the National Trust,

0:35:220:35:25

which manages these wild islands. With so many birds,

0:35:250:35:28

the rocks are often jam-packed and nesting sites are at a premium.

0:35:280:35:32

It is like a little city of guillemots here.

0:35:320:35:35

They really live cheek by jowl,

0:35:350:35:36

and I think they have one of the tiniest territories

0:35:360:35:39

in the bird world because, really, when you think about it,

0:35:390:35:42

it is just where they lay their egg.

0:35:420:35:44

That is the little bit of Mother Earth that they defend.

0:35:440:35:47

They all seem to get on somehow.

0:35:480:35:50

It's really a stunningly beautiful place here.

0:35:540:35:58

Tens of thousands of puffins.

0:35:580:36:00

Kittiwakes, guillemots, fulmar - all living out their lives here.

0:36:010:36:07

I think, in many ways, sea bird colonies are our wildest places.

0:36:070:36:11

It was great to get to the Farne Islands at last.

0:36:180:36:20

It is a place I'd always wanted to get to but the one thing you don't

0:36:200:36:23

notice on television, of course, is how bad they smell.

0:36:230:36:27

The place is full of guano and the smell of that,

0:36:270:36:31

I can still smell it now.

0:36:310:36:32

I can smell it on you actually, Colin, if I'm honest!

0:36:320:36:35

But I reckon sea bird colonies are about the closest things we've got

0:36:350:36:39

to the Serengeti, that real sense of wildlife all around you.

0:36:390:36:43

It did look fantastically wild, I have to say,

0:36:430:36:46

but the sad thing is that although these are spectacular wild places,

0:36:460:36:52

man is having an impact and some sea bird colonies you will find now

0:36:520:36:56

nests are being built with bits of plastic,

0:36:560:36:59

where birds have mistaken those for seaweed.

0:36:590:37:02

On the island of Grassholm off West Wales, for instance,

0:37:030:37:06

the nesting gannet population is really suffering the effects of

0:37:060:37:10

plastic pollution and volunteers regularly save over 50 birds a year.

0:37:100:37:15

Yeah, it's shocking really.

0:37:180:37:19

There's been a study that was published fairly recently that said

0:37:190:37:22

that perhaps 90% of the sea birds in the world now contain plastic

0:37:220:37:27

in their stomachs. So what can we do about it?

0:37:270:37:30

That's you and I.

0:37:300:37:32

Use less plastic, try and avoid it at all costs wherever possible

0:37:320:37:36

and if you find it, dispose of it properly.

0:37:360:37:38

And plastic pollution isn't just a problem for our shorelines

0:37:390:37:43

and wild spaces above the waves.

0:37:430:37:45

As the One Show's Miranda Krestovnikoff discovered in 2013

0:37:450:37:49

when she headed to Pembrokeshire.

0:37:490:37:51

The Pembrokeshire coast is the only coastal National Park in the UK,

0:37:540:37:58

reflecting the importance and beauty of this area above the waves.

0:37:580:38:02

And life below the waves here is just as stunning.

0:38:020:38:05

In 2004, around 1,400 square kilometres of sea

0:38:050:38:09

off this coastline was designated a special area of conservation.

0:38:090:38:14

Yet just because it is highly protected by law it doesn't mean

0:38:140:38:17

the underwater world is out of harm's way.

0:38:170:38:19

A national beach clean-up held in 2012 showed that the amount of

0:38:190:38:24

litter on our shores had increased by 15% in just one year.

0:38:240:38:28

And that rubbish can easily make its way from our beaches

0:38:310:38:34

into the marine environment

0:38:340:38:35

where the problem becomes much less visible.

0:38:350:38:38

Out of sight is often out of mind, but not for Neptune's Army,

0:38:390:38:43

Britain's only dedicated marine rubbish collecting team.

0:38:430:38:47

Their mission, to keep the underwater world pristine.

0:38:470:38:51

Davy Jones has been volunteering with them for five years.

0:38:510:38:55

We all know the shopping trolleys, they turn up quite regularly,

0:38:550:38:59

plastic bowls, rod tips.

0:38:590:39:01

-Loads of lead weights.

-Loads of lead weights, yeah.

0:39:010:39:04

I think our record is 730 in one dive.

0:39:040:39:08

No way.

0:39:080:39:09

Satellite dishes, computers,

0:39:090:39:11

a whole range of things you wouldn't expect us to find in the sea.

0:39:110:39:14

Everything including the kitchen sink.

0:39:140:39:17

And where is that coming from them?

0:39:170:39:18

Sadly I think this sort of stuff is probably fly-tipped.

0:39:180:39:21

I think people probably find it easier to throw things in the sea,

0:39:210:39:25

perhaps, than go to their local tip, which is a bit of shame.

0:39:250:39:29

And today I am joining in with the clean-up.

0:39:290:39:31

My dive buddy is Dave Kennard,

0:39:310:39:33

the man who brought this cleaning army together.

0:39:330:39:36

The group's been running since 2005

0:39:360:39:39

and it always amazes us how much we keep coming back and finding.

0:39:390:39:43

The site we have come to today hasn't been dived by Neptune's Army yet this year.

0:39:430:39:47

We are armed with a collecting crate because Dave is expecting plenty of rubbish.

0:39:470:39:52

A very pretty dive site.

0:39:580:40:00

Beautiful. Oh!

0:40:000:40:02

I love the sort of diving where you feel you've entered this underwater

0:40:020:40:07

kingdom, the water encrusted with all sorts of sea life.

0:40:070:40:11

Today is not a pleasure dive, though,

0:40:110:40:13

and it doesn't take long before we find what we are looking for.

0:40:130:40:16

Look, Dave, I bet you find a lot of that sort of stuff, don't you?

0:40:170:40:20

Line and weights and hooks and everything.

0:40:240:40:27

Just a fishing weight lying here, metre and metres of it.

0:40:270:40:31

Look at that. One more for the bag.

0:40:330:40:36

'It's staggering just how much broken fishing line we are finding

0:40:360:40:40

'and it doesn't just look unsightly, it can be really damaging too.'

0:40:400:40:43

Just imagine if you're a crab,

0:40:430:40:47

a spider crab with all those little spiky edges

0:40:470:40:50

and you are walking along the rocks and you meet one of those.

0:40:500:40:54

Ow!

0:40:540:40:55

This footage shot by Neptune's Army

0:40:570:40:59

shows that much of the clean-up diver's time is spent

0:40:590:41:03

untangling animals caught in old fishing equipment.

0:41:030:41:06

Lots of the rubbish they find can leak poisonous chemicals

0:41:070:41:10

which can kill wildlife.

0:41:100:41:12

It's astonishing, all that rubbish off the sea bed.

0:41:150:41:19

'Time to send today's haul to the surface so the boat can pick it up.'

0:41:190:41:23

I was quite depressed actually.

0:41:270:41:29

I was quite pleased with what we were doing.

0:41:290:41:31

We were doing a really important job.

0:41:310:41:34

As divers, I felt there was a real purpose to our dive,

0:41:340:41:36

but this made me feel quite upset, really.

0:41:360:41:39

There is lots more out there to be cleaned, sadly.

0:41:390:41:42

If you see a bit of rubbish, just pick it up.

0:41:420:41:44

You have an impact straight away, really.

0:41:440:41:46

On one dive you feel like you've made a difference.

0:41:460:41:49

Experiences like this remind me of

0:41:490:41:51

just how critical volunteers are to wildlife conservation.

0:41:510:41:55

These guys may be the only dedicated team of marine rubbish collectors in

0:41:550:41:59

Britain, but I hope through their work they will inspire more people

0:41:590:42:02

to get involved. Our seas certainly need it.

0:42:020:42:06

They really do, but the good thing is,

0:42:080:42:11

that particular team have completed over 100 dives now

0:42:110:42:15

on the Pembrokeshire coast

0:42:150:42:16

and they are on an awareness-raising mission.

0:42:160:42:19

And that really is the most important thing

0:42:190:42:22

because the fundamental answer to this problem, really,

0:42:220:42:24

is to stop plastic getting into our oceans in the first place.

0:42:240:42:27

Tomorrow on Wild UK,

0:42:310:42:33

we turn our attention to mountains

0:42:330:42:34

and the wildlife that makes our Highlands their home.

0:42:340:42:39

Colin discovers the secret past of Snowdonia.

0:42:390:42:42

It really feels very isolated

0:42:420:42:44

and I've just realised I can't see another living soul.

0:42:440:42:48

Lucy encounters the king of corvids, the raven.

0:42:480:42:51

And, on a remote island in the sea, we go behind the scenes with

0:42:510:42:55

the Wild Alaska team as they say, they are the walrus.

0:42:550:42:59

You can keep up with all the latest news from the Wild Alaska team

0:42:590:43:03

online all this week

0:43:030:43:06

and don't forget to tune in tonight on BBC One at 8pm

0:43:060:43:10

for all the latest wild happenings from Alaska.

0:43:100:43:14

And join us again tomorrow, BBC One, 9.15 am

0:43:140:43:18

for more Wild UK - because the UK is wilder than you think.

0:43:180:43:24

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