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Nestled in the far north-west of England, this is the Lake District... | 0:00:04 | 0:00:09 | |
..a land defined by its natural beauty. | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
Known to millions who love the Lakes was the late Alfred Wainwright, | 0:00:21 | 0:00:26 | |
author, guide writer and talented artist, but above all, he was the greatest fell walker. | 0:00:26 | 0:00:33 | |
Wainwright's guides have inspired generations of walkers to roam these glorious fells, | 0:00:35 | 0:00:41 | |
and now, a century after his birth, it's my turn to go in search of the real Wainwright experience. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:49 | |
From this steady flow of traffic on the A591, you get a clear view | 0:01:09 | 0:01:14 | |
of one of Lakeland's most recognisable and famous spots. | 0:01:14 | 0:01:18 | |
That is Helm Crag. Today I want to find out why this miniature fell made it into AW's top six summits, | 0:01:18 | 0:01:25 | |
despite being the only peak that he never got to the very top of. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:29 | |
Situated in the very heart of the Lake District, | 0:01:38 | 0:01:41 | |
Helm Crag is one of the lowest summits in volume three of Wainwright's pictorial guides. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:47 | |
It sits prominently at the end of a ridge which is easily reached from the village of Grasmere. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:52 | |
It's the cluster of distinctive summit rocks that give Helm Crag its alternative name. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:59 | |
"Generations of wagonette and motor-coach tourists | 0:02:00 | 0:02:04 | |
"have been tutored to recognise its appearance in the Grasmere landscape. | 0:02:04 | 0:02:08 | |
"It is the one feature of their Lakeland tour they hail at sight and in unison, | 0:02:08 | 0:02:15 | |
"but the cry on their lips is not 'Helm Crag', | 0:02:15 | 0:02:18 | |
"but 'the Lion and the Lamb'." | 0:02:18 | 0:02:21 | |
From down here on the roadside, you can see exactly what Wainwright means. | 0:02:21 | 0:02:26 | |
Helm Crag is a modest 1,328 feet. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:29 | |
It's a walk that's known for being short and easy. | 0:02:29 | 0:02:32 | |
In fact, Wainwright even says if it has a fault, it's that it's too short. | 0:02:32 | 0:02:36 | |
My early-evening walk to Helm Crag begins in one of the Lake District's most popular villages - Grasmere. | 0:02:40 | 0:02:46 | |
Home to the 18th-century poet William Wordsworth and his family, | 0:02:48 | 0:02:53 | |
this place inspired 40 years of romantic poetry. | 0:02:53 | 0:02:55 | |
The churchyard is today home to the Wordsworth family grave. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:04 | |
Before I head off on my walk, I'm meeting Mark Richards, a local writer and broadcaster, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:24 | |
who's also one of the few people who knew Alfred Wainwright personally. | 0:03:24 | 0:03:27 | |
See, I'm a bit torn today | 0:03:27 | 0:03:29 | |
because I'm not sure if I'm more excited about tackling Helm Crag or chatting to you | 0:03:29 | 0:03:34 | |
because you are actually somebody who has walked with AW. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:37 | |
You're rare these days, Mark - can't find many of you. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:40 | |
How did you come to be introduced to AW in the first place? | 0:03:40 | 0:03:44 | |
I was very fortunate. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:45 | |
Back in the early '70s, I got a great passion for drawing - pen and ink drawing - | 0:03:45 | 0:03:50 | |
and through a family connection, a family friend sent one of my drawings to him, | 0:03:50 | 0:03:55 | |
and he was very encouraging, and over a period of... all through the '70s, | 0:03:55 | 0:04:01 | |
I came and spent long weekends with him and his wife Betty. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
It was clear that he was an enigma within the walking world, | 0:04:04 | 0:04:08 | |
and it was very much a small world at the time because he hadn't been exposed to the media at all. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:15 | |
Walking with him, side by side with Alfred Wainwright... | 0:04:15 | 0:04:19 | |
how does that work? | 0:04:19 | 0:04:20 | |
Certainly, you wait until he stops. Even in his more senior years, he had a marvellous stride. | 0:04:20 | 0:04:28 | |
I remember going up Nine Standards Rigg, and we were repelled by drifts at Farady Gill | 0:04:28 | 0:04:36 | |
and at moments of hiatus, moments like that, he would talk a little bit then. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:40 | |
But you'd wait to be spoken to. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:42 | |
-In sort of a way. -He'd sort of stop and then... -Talk. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
But I've always been a bit of an enthusiast. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:47 | |
And I'd have chipped in, and he'd have responded. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:50 | |
It was a shared passion. You're clutching a valuable book. | 0:04:50 | 0:04:53 | |
Now, he gave this to you as a gift, because it was a gift to him, in turn. | 0:04:53 | 0:04:58 | |
Yes, he did. When he left Blackburn, his colleagues | 0:04:58 | 0:05:02 | |
at the Treasurer's office went down to the market, the street market, | 0:05:02 | 0:05:06 | |
and picked this up, and it embodied so many of the details | 0:05:06 | 0:05:10 | |
that later became part and parcel of what he was about. | 0:05:10 | 0:05:15 | |
This comes from the time of... before the age of photography, | 0:05:15 | 0:05:19 | |
when people went on grand tours of the Alps. | 0:05:19 | 0:05:23 | |
There are wonderful drawings in here of the Matterhorn - the Matterhorn, there. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:28 | |
When you just see that page, it screams Wainwright, doesn't it? | 0:05:28 | 0:05:32 | |
-Clearly the inspiration - the shading, style... -Texture. | 0:05:32 | 0:05:36 | |
Texture. And the little walk. | 0:05:36 | 0:05:38 | |
And the integration of text and artwork. | 0:05:38 | 0:05:40 | |
At the beginning, there is an amazing picture | 0:05:40 | 0:05:43 | |
that looks like the Newlands Valley, but there's this Victorian traveller with his Swiss guide, | 0:05:43 | 0:05:50 | |
and he's opening up a guidebook, a classic little wallet book, | 0:05:50 | 0:05:54 | |
and it says, "Consulting Murray". | 0:05:54 | 0:05:56 | |
You can see AW looking at this book and thinking, "Hmm...consulting Wainwright." | 0:05:57 | 0:06:02 | |
We know Wainwright never made it to the summit of Helm Crag | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
because he left a space, didn't he, ready to fill? But you have been. | 0:06:05 | 0:06:09 | |
-You've made it. -I've made it. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:10 | |
I learned my skills in mountain craft from my mountaineering club | 0:06:10 | 0:06:14 | |
like a lot of people of my generation, | 0:06:14 | 0:06:16 | |
but it is an interesting little climb, and it's something that you'll enjoy, I'm sure. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:21 | |
Do you call the summit Helm Crag or the Lion and the Lamb? | 0:06:21 | 0:06:24 | |
Helm Crag, because that's the name of the whole fell, and one tends to do that. | 0:06:24 | 0:06:29 | |
You can't actually see the final summit from here, can you? | 0:06:29 | 0:06:33 | |
It's just around the bend a bit. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
It's a sneaky one. This is the Grasmere Lion and the Lamb you're looking at. | 0:06:36 | 0:06:40 | |
Wainwright would describe this as the official Lion and the Lamb, | 0:06:40 | 0:06:43 | |
but to my mind, it's the... Howitzer's the real summit. | 0:06:43 | 0:06:47 | |
The view you get from Dunmail Raise... It's an amazing place to be. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:51 | |
-What more could you ask for? -Nothing at all. Mark, thank you. It's been a pleasure. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:55 | |
-It's been a delight to see you. -Hold onto that book. -I will. Au revoir. -Au revoir. | 0:06:55 | 0:07:00 | |
As I head off to begin my walk, let's take a look at the route. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:05 | |
My walk begins in the heart of Grasmere village. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:18 | |
The footpath takes me away from the tourist crowds and towards the western side of the fell. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:25 | |
Here my route takes me across the National Trust estate at Allan Bank. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:29 | |
I'll head along the tarmacked Easedale Road | 0:07:29 | 0:07:32 | |
before heading into the woodland at the foot of Helm Crag. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:36 | |
The engineered, rocky stairway snakes up the breast of the fell, | 0:07:37 | 0:07:42 | |
passing by Lancrigg Crag, Jackdaw Crag and White Crag. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:47 | |
From the path, there's a view across Easedale Beck to Easedale Tarn | 0:07:49 | 0:07:54 | |
and the spectacular waterfall of Sour Milk Gill. | 0:07:54 | 0:07:58 | |
But as my path hairpins to the right, I'll climb onto a ridge | 0:08:00 | 0:08:04 | |
that gives me a view into the opposite valley, | 0:08:04 | 0:08:07 | |
looking towards the pass of Dunmail Raise and the peak of Fairfield. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:11 | |
Here, the final ascent leads to the summit ridge path. | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
First, I'll approach the distinctive rocks of the Lion and the Lamb | 0:08:17 | 0:08:22 | |
and then cross the boulder-strewn, craggy and desolate ridge top | 0:08:22 | 0:08:27 | |
to reach the cannon-shaped barrel of rock, the Howitzer, which is the mountain's true top. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:33 | |
Dove Cottage is Wordsworth's most famous home which now houses the Wordsworth Museum, | 0:08:53 | 0:08:58 | |
but perhaps a lesser-known house is that one through the trees. | 0:08:58 | 0:09:02 | |
That's Allan Bank, where he lived with his wife Mary, their five children | 0:09:02 | 0:09:06 | |
and his poet friend Samuel Coleridge, between 1808 and 1811. | 0:09:06 | 0:09:10 | |
In 1917, this impressive house was to have another important owner. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:17 | |
It was purchased by Canon Hardwicke Rawnsley, | 0:09:17 | 0:09:20 | |
co-founder of the National Trust, who retired here. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
When he died in 1920, | 0:09:23 | 0:09:25 | |
he left the estate to the Trust, who still manage it today. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
I can see the summit, but first on this route, | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
there's a fair bit of low-level walking to do before I reach the foot of the fell. | 0:09:36 | 0:09:41 | |
In book three, there's a tiny diagram which shows Helm Crag | 0:09:44 | 0:09:47 | |
in relation to Grasmere, and Wainwright says, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:49 | |
"This is the smallest and most accurate map in the book." | 0:09:49 | 0:09:53 | |
We know it's the smallest map in Wainwright's pictorial guides, | 0:09:53 | 0:09:57 | |
and it's the smallest map I've seen. | 0:09:57 | 0:09:59 | |
It's the size of a stamp! | 0:09:59 | 0:10:01 | |
Ordinarily, this would be a pretty late start for a walk. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:14 | |
However, in this case, Wainwright recommends it. | 0:10:14 | 0:10:17 | |
"For the evening of the day of arrival in Grasmere on a walking holiday, it's just the thing... | 0:10:17 | 0:10:22 | |
"an epitome of Lakeland concentrated in the space of two hours | 0:10:22 | 0:10:26 | |
"and an excellent foretaste of happy days to come." | 0:10:26 | 0:10:30 | |
Now, this way is towards Easedale Tarn and a spectacular waterfall, Sour Milk Gill. | 0:10:50 | 0:10:55 | |
The thing about this walk is that it gives you access | 0:10:55 | 0:10:58 | |
to so many beautiful spots that, at the height of the season, it can get really busy. | 0:10:58 | 0:11:03 | |
A short detour from the route to Helm Crag takes you across the valley to Easedale Tarn | 0:11:06 | 0:11:11 | |
from where you have a fine view back to Helm Crag's profile. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:15 | |
The thing about a low-level walk like this is that you really get | 0:11:17 | 0:11:21 | |
the time to just soak in the atmosphere and enjoy the magic. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:25 | |
That house over there at the foot of Helm Crag is Lancrigg, | 0:11:54 | 0:11:58 | |
where the Lakeland poets used to meet and socialise, | 0:11:58 | 0:12:01 | |
and it's easy to see how their creative juices would have been set off by this. | 0:12:01 | 0:12:05 | |
As Wainwright did with his guides, Wordsworth immortalised the beauty of the Lakes in his poetry. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:14 | |
He was often seen wandering in this valley and surrounding fells, | 0:12:14 | 0:12:17 | |
dictating his poetry to his sister Dorothy. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:20 | |
It starts to get a bit interesting here | 0:12:43 | 0:12:45 | |
in the canopy of trees - it blocks out all light. | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
Helm Crag that way... | 0:12:57 | 0:12:59 | |
last chance to visit Easedale Tarn, that way. | 0:12:59 | 0:13:03 | |
The route to Helm Crag also features in Wainwright's 192-mile coast-to-coast walk, | 0:13:11 | 0:13:18 | |
from St Bee's Head in the west, crossing three National Parks along the way, | 0:13:18 | 0:13:24 | |
to Robin Hood's Bay in the east... | 0:13:24 | 0:13:26 | |
..making this a well-trodden route. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
"This is one of the few hills | 0:13:36 | 0:13:37 | |
"where ascent and descent by the same route is recommended. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:43 | |
"An alternative route has nothing in its favour." | 0:13:43 | 0:13:47 | |
Suddenly, it's not so gentle, but thankfully, somebody's put a handrail up. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:55 | |
The footpath is slightly altered from the route in volume three, | 0:14:02 | 0:14:05 | |
as this path has been pitched and repaired by the National Trust. | 0:14:05 | 0:14:09 | |
Now, although it's unlikely you'll go astray, | 0:14:10 | 0:14:13 | |
it's a good reminder that you should carry an Ordnance Survey map, as the guidebook is nearing 50 years old. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:19 | |
SHE SIGHS | 0:14:20 | 0:14:21 | |
When Wainwright started walking, of course, the OS maps were drawn to a much smaller scale, | 0:14:26 | 0:14:31 | |
so the detail wouldn't be there. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:32 | |
Helm Crag would have looked just like a little blob. | 0:14:32 | 0:14:35 | |
The new scale of the OS maps doubled, liberating Wainwright's work. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:42 | |
"They fascinated me. | 0:14:44 | 0:14:45 | |
"The one-inch maps we had to be content with before suffered from an absence of detail. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:52 | |
"They were magnificent maps, | 0:14:52 | 0:14:55 | |
"magnificently drawn and magnificently accurate, | 0:14:55 | 0:14:59 | |
"but on the rough country of Lakeland, | 0:14:59 | 0:15:02 | |
"where summits and crags and tarns and streams were bewilderingly crowded in small compass, | 0:15:02 | 0:15:09 | |
"and where the ground was so steeply sculptured that the contours almost touched, | 0:15:09 | 0:15:14 | |
"there was simply not room on the one-inch maps to show every feature | 0:15:14 | 0:15:19 | |
"that a walker would encounter on his travels." | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
And that, winking at us over there, | 0:15:34 | 0:15:37 | |
is Sour Milk Gill. | 0:15:39 | 0:15:41 | |
Fed from the waters of Easedale Tarn is the spectacular waterfall Sour Milk Gill. | 0:15:45 | 0:15:50 | |
It gets its name from its foaming waters, | 0:15:53 | 0:15:56 | |
which resemble milk when it's being churned into butter. | 0:15:56 | 0:15:59 | |
At just under 1,300 feet, and only a mile and a half in distance, this fell is deceptively steep. | 0:16:19 | 0:16:27 | |
This is starting to feel like a more serious walk. | 0:16:28 | 0:16:31 | |
What a splendid view of Grasmere! | 0:16:54 | 0:16:57 | |
The lake is to the south of the village, | 0:17:04 | 0:17:06 | |
and there are some beautiful gentle walks around the water. | 0:17:06 | 0:17:10 | |
But if you fancy some of the tougher challenges the Lakes have to offer, | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
Grasmere is perfectly situated to tackle Helvellyn, the Langdale Pikes and the Scafells. | 0:17:13 | 0:17:19 | |
The 214 fells included in the series of pictorial guides are commonly known as the Wainwrights. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:31 | |
These range in height from the diminutive 985 feet at Castle Crag | 0:17:33 | 0:17:39 | |
to the towering 3,210 feet of Scafell Pike. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:46 | |
Completing all the fells is a popular peak-bagging challenge. | 0:17:48 | 0:17:54 | |
Jonathan Broad is among an elite group of youngsters | 0:17:54 | 0:17:57 | |
who have bagged all 214 Wainwrights before their tenth birthday. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:01 | |
-Good to meet you, how are you? -Fine. -Good, good. | 0:18:01 | 0:18:05 | |
An extraordinary thing you've done to get through | 0:18:05 | 0:18:06 | |
all of those fells before your tenth birthday. | 0:18:06 | 0:18:09 | |
-Did you set out to do that? Is it what you wanted to do? -Yeah. | 0:18:09 | 0:18:12 | |
How did you first come across a Wainwright book? | 0:18:12 | 0:18:15 | |
Well, my dad sort of, like, asked me to do the Wainwrights, | 0:18:15 | 0:18:19 | |
and then my mum started buying the Wainwright books for my dad, and then I started to look at them. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:24 | |
Wow, I am so far behind you. You've done 214 of them. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:27 | |
I've done just a handful. | 0:18:27 | 0:18:30 | |
What are your favourites? | 0:18:30 | 0:18:31 | |
-Helm Crag. -So, where we are right now? -Yeah. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:35 | |
Why? Why do you love Helm Crag? It's a miniature fell. | 0:18:35 | 0:18:38 | |
Well, I like the...like - looking from that road down there - | 0:18:38 | 0:18:42 | |
looking at the Lion and the Lamb and climbing on top of it. | 0:18:42 | 0:18:45 | |
What would you do next if you could do another one again and again? | 0:18:45 | 0:18:48 | |
Which one would it be, that you really enjoyed the journey of? | 0:18:48 | 0:18:52 | |
Probably this one, Helm Crag. | 0:18:53 | 0:18:54 | |
-Really? This one again? -Yeah. | 0:18:54 | 0:18:56 | |
How many fells have you walked in one day? | 0:18:56 | 0:18:58 | |
-12 at the most. -12? Blimey! | 0:18:58 | 0:19:03 | |
-That's a lot. -It was 18 miles as well. | 0:19:03 | 0:19:06 | |
Phew! I don't know if I could keep up with you! | 0:19:06 | 0:19:09 | |
HE GIGGLES | 0:19:09 | 0:19:10 | |
Have you ever done any camping outside, bivouacking? | 0:19:10 | 0:19:13 | |
Yeah. We had to do loads of fells, and we didn't think we could do them in time, | 0:19:13 | 0:19:17 | |
so we just camped out at night and waited till morning | 0:19:17 | 0:19:20 | |
and got up at, like, four in the morning to do them. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:23 | |
You're a very dedicated fell walker. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:26 | |
Can you remember a time when you started on a walk | 0:19:28 | 0:19:31 | |
and it was a sunny day and it turned into a horrible, rainy day? | 0:19:31 | 0:19:34 | |
Yeah, cos we started on this walk where we did three fells, and when we got to the, um... | 0:19:34 | 0:19:40 | |
Well, it was sort of sunny at the start, and then when we got | 0:19:40 | 0:19:44 | |
near the end at High Spire, it was really windy and wet and cold. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:49 | |
-Were you prepared? Did you have everything you needed? -Yep. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:52 | |
-What do you pack normally when you're going? -Well, a whistle, a map, a coat and... | 0:19:52 | 0:19:59 | |
-food. -That's pretty good. | 0:19:59 | 0:20:01 | |
So how long do you think you could survive on a fell for? | 0:20:01 | 0:20:04 | |
Probably about two days, maybe. | 0:20:04 | 0:20:07 | |
Blimey. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:09 | |
Now, have you got any tips for me? Because you've done all 214 fells. | 0:20:09 | 0:20:13 | |
I'm a long way behind you, so I've got quite a lot to learn, I think. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:17 | |
Hmm. Well... | 0:20:17 | 0:20:18 | |
really, you need to, like, have all your stuff ready for when it gets bad weather | 0:20:18 | 0:20:24 | |
and just, like, keep going. | 0:20:24 | 0:20:26 | |
So just keep going? | 0:20:26 | 0:20:27 | |
Yeah, even if it's really bad weather, | 0:20:27 | 0:20:30 | |
but I suppose if it's like thunder and lightning, then you should come back to be safe. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:35 | |
So, what future plans have you got, Jonathan? What's next? | 0:20:35 | 0:20:38 | |
-Well, my dad was talking about doing the Pennine Way... -Yeah. | 0:20:38 | 0:20:42 | |
and we might do it in a few years, | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
and once he actually talked about doing Kilimanjaro in Africa when I'm about 20. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:51 | |
-So, a little wait to go. -Yeah. | 0:20:51 | 0:20:53 | |
-Jonathan, thank you very much. -Thank you. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:55 | |
-It's a pleasure to meet you. I'm going to make my way right to the top. -OK. | 0:20:55 | 0:21:00 | |
See if we can do what Wainwright didn't do. See you! | 0:21:00 | 0:21:03 | |
Bye, Julia! | 0:21:03 | 0:21:04 | |
The final stretch to the summit gets a bit stonier underfoot, | 0:21:15 | 0:21:20 | |
but that's always a good sign. | 0:21:20 | 0:21:22 | |
It means you're nearly there. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:26 | |
Wainwright said the hills are not death traps. | 0:21:27 | 0:21:30 | |
You don't go on the hills to break your neck. | 0:21:30 | 0:21:33 | |
You go on the hills to get away from places where other people can break your neck. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:38 | |
And now you can see what Wainwright made such a fuss about. | 0:21:50 | 0:21:53 | |
"The summit is altogether a rather weird and fantastic place. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:29 | |
"Well worth not merely a visit, but a detailed and leisurely exploration." | 0:22:34 | 0:22:40 | |
Well, this is the Lion and the Lamb, but from such close proximity, you actually can't make it out at all. | 0:23:02 | 0:23:08 | |
There's the A591. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:25 | |
And now I'm one of those little ants you can see from down there | 0:23:26 | 0:23:31 | |
scuttling along the rocky profile. | 0:23:31 | 0:23:33 | |
Although this is a short walk and a low fell by Lakeland standards, | 0:23:36 | 0:23:40 | |
it does make it into Wainwright's top six summits, | 0:23:40 | 0:23:43 | |
and when you look across that ridge towards the other pinnacle of rock, | 0:23:43 | 0:23:48 | |
you can see why. | 0:23:48 | 0:23:49 | |
"The ridge path is a joy to tread | 0:23:58 | 0:24:01 | |
and leads majestically to the main summit outcrop... | 0:24:01 | 0:24:05 | |
"a tilted, jagged mass of rock which will draw a camera from many a bag." | 0:24:05 | 0:24:11 | |
There is an alternative easier path down to the left. | 0:24:15 | 0:24:18 | |
That would be cheating! | 0:24:18 | 0:24:20 | |
But this is a good path to obey Wainwright's golden rule of watching your feet. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:24 | |
He describes it as "boulder strewn" | 0:24:24 | 0:24:26 | |
and it's certainly a good route to twist an ankle. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:29 | |
That jagged mass of rock on the north of the summit | 0:24:42 | 0:24:45 | |
is known as the Howitzer, and that's really the mountain's true top. | 0:24:45 | 0:24:49 | |
As I approach the Howitzer, the looming top looks to be about 30 feet above the path. | 0:25:00 | 0:25:07 | |
And perhaps it's a trickier proposition than I first imagined. | 0:25:07 | 0:25:11 | |
Now it's time to see for myself how difficult that final scramble up to the top really is, | 0:25:19 | 0:25:24 | |
because, of course, AW never actually made it up there. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:27 | |
Although, of course, he was considerably older than I am when he tried. | 0:25:27 | 0:25:31 | |
"The virtues of Helm Crag have not been lauded enough. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:39 | |
"It gives an exhilarating little climb, a brief essay | 0:25:39 | 0:25:43 | |
"in real mountaineering, and in a region where all is beautiful, | 0:25:43 | 0:25:49 | |
"it makes a notable contribution | 0:25:49 | 0:25:51 | |
"to the natural charms and attractions of Grasmere." | 0:25:51 | 0:25:55 | |
This is one of the very few summits in Lakeland | 0:26:03 | 0:26:06 | |
reached only by climbing rocks. | 0:26:06 | 0:26:08 | |
Wainwright described it as one of the very best. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:12 | |
"In scenic values, the summits of many high mountains are a disappointment | 0:26:21 | 0:26:27 | |
"after the long toil of ascent, yet here, on top of little Helm Crag, | 0:26:27 | 0:26:33 | |
a midget of a mountain, | 0:26:33 | 0:26:35 | |
"is a remarkable array of rocks, upstanding and fallen, | 0:26:35 | 0:26:40 | |
"of singular interest and fascinating appearance, | 0:26:40 | 0:26:44 | |
"that yield a quality of reward out of all proportion to the short and simple climb." | 0:26:44 | 0:26:50 | |
"The uppermost inches of Scafell and Hellvellyn and Skiddaw | 0:26:52 | 0:26:55 | |
"can show nothing like Helm Crag's | 0:26:55 | 0:26:57 | |
"crown of shattered and petrified stone." | 0:26:57 | 0:27:01 | |
The whole feel of this walk from Grasmere to Helm Crag's summit | 0:27:21 | 0:27:25 | |
is completely different from my other walks. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:28 | |
Here, the low-level journey to the foot of the fell makes a significant and enjoyable part of the route. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:35 | |
The steep but relatively short hike up the fellside may deliver amazing views, | 0:27:35 | 0:27:40 | |
but as Wainwright clearly realised, it's the rocky and desolate summit | 0:27:40 | 0:27:44 | |
with its stark contrast to the valley below | 0:27:44 | 0:27:47 | |
that delivers the walker the most inspiration and reward. | 0:27:47 | 0:27:51 | |
Wainwright left a little corner | 0:27:53 | 0:27:55 | |
in book three's Helm Crag section - | 0:27:55 | 0:27:58 | |
"Reserved for an announcement | 0:27:58 | 0:28:00 | |
"that the author had succeeded | 0:28:00 | 0:28:01 | |
"in surmounting the highest point," | 0:28:01 | 0:28:04 | |
which, of course, he never did. | 0:28:04 | 0:28:06 | |
Sitting in this evening light on the summit of Helm Crag, | 0:28:09 | 0:28:12 | |
it's easy to see how this miniature fell winged its way | 0:28:12 | 0:28:16 | |
into Wainwright's affections, | 0:28:16 | 0:28:18 | |
and having struggled to the top of this pinnacle, | 0:28:18 | 0:28:21 | |
I can tell you it's not as easy as it looks from down in Grasmere. | 0:28:21 | 0:28:25 | |
I think we can forgive AW for not making it to the very, very top... | 0:28:25 | 0:28:30 | |
a small fell with a tricky proposition. | 0:28:30 | 0:28:32 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media | 0:28:51 | 0:28:54 |