Helm Crag Wainwright Walks


Helm Crag

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Nestled in the far north-west of England, this is the Lake District...

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..a land defined by its natural beauty.

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Known to millions who love the Lakes was the late Alfred Wainwright,

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author, guide writer and talented artist, but above all, he was the greatest fell walker.

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Wainwright's guides have inspired generations of walkers to roam these glorious fells,

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and now, a century after his birth, it's my turn to go in search of the real Wainwright experience.

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From this steady flow of traffic on the A591, you get a clear view

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of one of Lakeland's most recognisable and famous spots.

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That is Helm Crag. Today I want to find out why this miniature fell made it into AW's top six summits,

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despite being the only peak that he never got to the very top of.

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Situated in the very heart of the Lake District,

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Helm Crag is one of the lowest summits in volume three of Wainwright's pictorial guides.

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It sits prominently at the end of a ridge which is easily reached from the village of Grasmere.

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It's the cluster of distinctive summit rocks that give Helm Crag its alternative name.

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"Generations of wagonette and motor-coach tourists

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"have been tutored to recognise its appearance in the Grasmere landscape.

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"It is the one feature of their Lakeland tour they hail at sight and in unison,

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"but the cry on their lips is not 'Helm Crag',

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"but 'the Lion and the Lamb'."

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From down here on the roadside, you can see exactly what Wainwright means.

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Helm Crag is a modest 1,328 feet.

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It's a walk that's known for being short and easy.

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In fact, Wainwright even says if it has a fault, it's that it's too short.

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My early-evening walk to Helm Crag begins in one of the Lake District's most popular villages - Grasmere.

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Home to the 18th-century poet William Wordsworth and his family,

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this place inspired 40 years of romantic poetry.

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The churchyard is today home to the Wordsworth family grave.

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Before I head off on my walk, I'm meeting Mark Richards, a local writer and broadcaster,

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who's also one of the few people who knew Alfred Wainwright personally.

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See, I'm a bit torn today

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because I'm not sure if I'm more excited about tackling Helm Crag or chatting to you

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because you are actually somebody who has walked with AW.

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You're rare these days, Mark - can't find many of you.

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How did you come to be introduced to AW in the first place?

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I was very fortunate.

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Back in the early '70s, I got a great passion for drawing - pen and ink drawing -

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and through a family connection, a family friend sent one of my drawings to him,

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and he was very encouraging, and over a period of... all through the '70s,

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I came and spent long weekends with him and his wife Betty.

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It was clear that he was an enigma within the walking world,

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and it was very much a small world at the time because he hadn't been exposed to the media at all.

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Walking with him, side by side with Alfred Wainwright...

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how does that work?

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Certainly, you wait until he stops. Even in his more senior years, he had a marvellous stride.

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I remember going up Nine Standards Rigg, and we were repelled by drifts at Farady Gill

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and at moments of hiatus, moments like that, he would talk a little bit then.

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But you'd wait to be spoken to.

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-In sort of a way.

-He'd sort of stop and then...

-Talk.

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But I've always been a bit of an enthusiast.

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And I'd have chipped in, and he'd have responded.

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It was a shared passion. You're clutching a valuable book.

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Now, he gave this to you as a gift, because it was a gift to him, in turn.

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Yes, he did. When he left Blackburn, his colleagues

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at the Treasurer's office went down to the market, the street market,

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and picked this up, and it embodied so many of the details

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that later became part and parcel of what he was about.

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This comes from the time of... before the age of photography,

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when people went on grand tours of the Alps.

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There are wonderful drawings in here of the Matterhorn - the Matterhorn, there.

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When you just see that page, it screams Wainwright, doesn't it?

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-Clearly the inspiration - the shading, style...

-Texture.

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Texture. And the little walk.

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And the integration of text and artwork.

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At the beginning, there is an amazing picture

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that looks like the Newlands Valley, but there's this Victorian traveller with his Swiss guide,

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and he's opening up a guidebook, a classic little wallet book,

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and it says, "Consulting Murray".

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You can see AW looking at this book and thinking, "Hmm...consulting Wainwright."

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We know Wainwright never made it to the summit of Helm Crag

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because he left a space, didn't he, ready to fill? But you have been.

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-You've made it.

-I've made it.

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I learned my skills in mountain craft from my mountaineering club

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like a lot of people of my generation,

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but it is an interesting little climb, and it's something that you'll enjoy, I'm sure.

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Do you call the summit Helm Crag or the Lion and the Lamb?

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Helm Crag, because that's the name of the whole fell, and one tends to do that.

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You can't actually see the final summit from here, can you?

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It's just around the bend a bit.

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It's a sneaky one. This is the Grasmere Lion and the Lamb you're looking at.

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Wainwright would describe this as the official Lion and the Lamb,

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but to my mind, it's the... Howitzer's the real summit.

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The view you get from Dunmail Raise... It's an amazing place to be.

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-What more could you ask for?

-Nothing at all. Mark, thank you. It's been a pleasure.

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-It's been a delight to see you.

-Hold onto that book.

-I will. Au revoir.

-Au revoir.

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As I head off to begin my walk, let's take a look at the route.

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My walk begins in the heart of Grasmere village.

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The footpath takes me away from the tourist crowds and towards the western side of the fell.

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Here my route takes me across the National Trust estate at Allan Bank.

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I'll head along the tarmacked Easedale Road

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before heading into the woodland at the foot of Helm Crag.

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The engineered, rocky stairway snakes up the breast of the fell,

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passing by Lancrigg Crag, Jackdaw Crag and White Crag.

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From the path, there's a view across Easedale Beck to Easedale Tarn

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and the spectacular waterfall of Sour Milk Gill.

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But as my path hairpins to the right, I'll climb onto a ridge

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that gives me a view into the opposite valley,

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looking towards the pass of Dunmail Raise and the peak of Fairfield.

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Here, the final ascent leads to the summit ridge path.

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First, I'll approach the distinctive rocks of the Lion and the Lamb

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and then cross the boulder-strewn, craggy and desolate ridge top

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to reach the cannon-shaped barrel of rock, the Howitzer, which is the mountain's true top.

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Dove Cottage is Wordsworth's most famous home which now houses the Wordsworth Museum,

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but perhaps a lesser-known house is that one through the trees.

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That's Allan Bank, where he lived with his wife Mary, their five children

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and his poet friend Samuel Coleridge, between 1808 and 1811.

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In 1917, this impressive house was to have another important owner.

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It was purchased by Canon Hardwicke Rawnsley,

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co-founder of the National Trust, who retired here.

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When he died in 1920,

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he left the estate to the Trust, who still manage it today.

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I can see the summit, but first on this route,

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there's a fair bit of low-level walking to do before I reach the foot of the fell.

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In book three, there's a tiny diagram which shows Helm Crag

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in relation to Grasmere, and Wainwright says,

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"This is the smallest and most accurate map in the book."

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We know it's the smallest map in Wainwright's pictorial guides,

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and it's the smallest map I've seen.

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It's the size of a stamp!

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Ordinarily, this would be a pretty late start for a walk.

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However, in this case, Wainwright recommends it.

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"For the evening of the day of arrival in Grasmere on a walking holiday, it's just the thing...

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"an epitome of Lakeland concentrated in the space of two hours

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"and an excellent foretaste of happy days to come."

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Now, this way is towards Easedale Tarn and a spectacular waterfall, Sour Milk Gill.

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The thing about this walk is that it gives you access

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to so many beautiful spots that, at the height of the season, it can get really busy.

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A short detour from the route to Helm Crag takes you across the valley to Easedale Tarn

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from where you have a fine view back to Helm Crag's profile.

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The thing about a low-level walk like this is that you really get

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the time to just soak in the atmosphere and enjoy the magic.

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That house over there at the foot of Helm Crag is Lancrigg,

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where the Lakeland poets used to meet and socialise,

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and it's easy to see how their creative juices would have been set off by this.

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As Wainwright did with his guides, Wordsworth immortalised the beauty of the Lakes in his poetry.

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He was often seen wandering in this valley and surrounding fells,

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dictating his poetry to his sister Dorothy.

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It starts to get a bit interesting here

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in the canopy of trees - it blocks out all light.

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Helm Crag that way...

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last chance to visit Easedale Tarn, that way.

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The route to Helm Crag also features in Wainwright's 192-mile coast-to-coast walk,

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from St Bee's Head in the west, crossing three National Parks along the way,

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to Robin Hood's Bay in the east...

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..making this a well-trodden route.

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"This is one of the few hills

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"where ascent and descent by the same route is recommended.

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"An alternative route has nothing in its favour."

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Suddenly, it's not so gentle, but thankfully, somebody's put a handrail up.

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The footpath is slightly altered from the route in volume three,

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as this path has been pitched and repaired by the National Trust.

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Now, although it's unlikely you'll go astray,

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it's a good reminder that you should carry an Ordnance Survey map, as the guidebook is nearing 50 years old.

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SHE SIGHS

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When Wainwright started walking, of course, the OS maps were drawn to a much smaller scale,

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so the detail wouldn't be there.

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Helm Crag would have looked just like a little blob.

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The new scale of the OS maps doubled, liberating Wainwright's work.

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"They fascinated me.

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"The one-inch maps we had to be content with before suffered from an absence of detail.

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"They were magnificent maps,

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"magnificently drawn and magnificently accurate,

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"but on the rough country of Lakeland,

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"where summits and crags and tarns and streams were bewilderingly crowded in small compass,

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"and where the ground was so steeply sculptured that the contours almost touched,

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"there was simply not room on the one-inch maps to show every feature

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"that a walker would encounter on his travels."

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And that, winking at us over there,

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is Sour Milk Gill.

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Fed from the waters of Easedale Tarn is the spectacular waterfall Sour Milk Gill.

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It gets its name from its foaming waters,

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which resemble milk when it's being churned into butter.

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At just under 1,300 feet, and only a mile and a half in distance, this fell is deceptively steep.

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This is starting to feel like a more serious walk.

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What a splendid view of Grasmere!

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The lake is to the south of the village,

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and there are some beautiful gentle walks around the water.

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But if you fancy some of the tougher challenges the Lakes have to offer,

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Grasmere is perfectly situated to tackle Helvellyn, the Langdale Pikes and the Scafells.

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The 214 fells included in the series of pictorial guides are commonly known as the Wainwrights.

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These range in height from the diminutive 985 feet at Castle Crag

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to the towering 3,210 feet of Scafell Pike.

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Completing all the fells is a popular peak-bagging challenge.

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Jonathan Broad is among an elite group of youngsters

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who have bagged all 214 Wainwrights before their tenth birthday.

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-Good to meet you, how are you?

-Fine.

-Good, good.

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An extraordinary thing you've done to get through

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all of those fells before your tenth birthday.

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-Did you set out to do that? Is it what you wanted to do?

-Yeah.

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How did you first come across a Wainwright book?

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Well, my dad sort of, like, asked me to do the Wainwrights,

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and then my mum started buying the Wainwright books for my dad, and then I started to look at them.

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Wow, I am so far behind you. You've done 214 of them.

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I've done just a handful.

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What are your favourites?

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-Helm Crag.

-So, where we are right now?

-Yeah.

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Why? Why do you love Helm Crag? It's a miniature fell.

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Well, I like the...like - looking from that road down there -

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looking at the Lion and the Lamb and climbing on top of it.

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What would you do next if you could do another one again and again?

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Which one would it be, that you really enjoyed the journey of?

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Probably this one, Helm Crag.

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-Really? This one again?

-Yeah.

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How many fells have you walked in one day?

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-12 at the most.

-12? Blimey!

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-That's a lot.

-It was 18 miles as well.

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Phew! I don't know if I could keep up with you!

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HE GIGGLES

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Have you ever done any camping outside, bivouacking?

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Yeah. We had to do loads of fells, and we didn't think we could do them in time,

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so we just camped out at night and waited till morning

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and got up at, like, four in the morning to do them.

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You're a very dedicated fell walker.

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Can you remember a time when you started on a walk

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and it was a sunny day and it turned into a horrible, rainy day?

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Yeah, cos we started on this walk where we did three fells, and when we got to the, um...

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Well, it was sort of sunny at the start, and then when we got

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near the end at High Spire, it was really windy and wet and cold.

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-Were you prepared? Did you have everything you needed?

-Yep.

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-What do you pack normally when you're going?

-Well, a whistle, a map, a coat and...

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-food.

-That's pretty good.

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So how long do you think you could survive on a fell for?

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Probably about two days, maybe.

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Blimey.

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Now, have you got any tips for me? Because you've done all 214 fells.

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I'm a long way behind you, so I've got quite a lot to learn, I think.

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Hmm. Well...

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really, you need to, like, have all your stuff ready for when it gets bad weather

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and just, like, keep going.

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So just keep going?

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Yeah, even if it's really bad weather,

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but I suppose if it's like thunder and lightning, then you should come back to be safe.

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So, what future plans have you got, Jonathan? What's next?

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-Well, my dad was talking about doing the Pennine Way...

-Yeah.

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and we might do it in a few years,

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and once he actually talked about doing Kilimanjaro in Africa when I'm about 20.

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-So, a little wait to go.

-Yeah.

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-Jonathan, thank you very much.

-Thank you.

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-It's a pleasure to meet you. I'm going to make my way right to the top.

-OK.

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See if we can do what Wainwright didn't do. See you!

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Bye, Julia!

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The final stretch to the summit gets a bit stonier underfoot,

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but that's always a good sign.

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It means you're nearly there.

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Wainwright said the hills are not death traps.

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You don't go on the hills to break your neck.

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You go on the hills to get away from places where other people can break your neck.

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And now you can see what Wainwright made such a fuss about.

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"The summit is altogether a rather weird and fantastic place.

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"Well worth not merely a visit, but a detailed and leisurely exploration."

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Well, this is the Lion and the Lamb, but from such close proximity, you actually can't make it out at all.

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There's the A591.

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And now I'm one of those little ants you can see from down there

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scuttling along the rocky profile.

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Although this is a short walk and a low fell by Lakeland standards,

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it does make it into Wainwright's top six summits,

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and when you look across that ridge towards the other pinnacle of rock,

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you can see why.

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"The ridge path is a joy to tread

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and leads majestically to the main summit outcrop...

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"a tilted, jagged mass of rock which will draw a camera from many a bag."

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There is an alternative easier path down to the left.

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That would be cheating!

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But this is a good path to obey Wainwright's golden rule of watching your feet.

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He describes it as "boulder strewn"

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and it's certainly a good route to twist an ankle.

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That jagged mass of rock on the north of the summit

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is known as the Howitzer, and that's really the mountain's true top.

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As I approach the Howitzer, the looming top looks to be about 30 feet above the path.

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And perhaps it's a trickier proposition than I first imagined.

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Now it's time to see for myself how difficult that final scramble up to the top really is,

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because, of course, AW never actually made it up there.

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Although, of course, he was considerably older than I am when he tried.

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"The virtues of Helm Crag have not been lauded enough.

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"It gives an exhilarating little climb, a brief essay

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"in real mountaineering, and in a region where all is beautiful,

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"it makes a notable contribution

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"to the natural charms and attractions of Grasmere."

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This is one of the very few summits in Lakeland

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reached only by climbing rocks.

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Wainwright described it as one of the very best.

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"In scenic values, the summits of many high mountains are a disappointment

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"after the long toil of ascent, yet here, on top of little Helm Crag,

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a midget of a mountain,

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"is a remarkable array of rocks, upstanding and fallen,

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"of singular interest and fascinating appearance,

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"that yield a quality of reward out of all proportion to the short and simple climb."

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"The uppermost inches of Scafell and Hellvellyn and Skiddaw

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"can show nothing like Helm Crag's

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"crown of shattered and petrified stone."

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The whole feel of this walk from Grasmere to Helm Crag's summit

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is completely different from my other walks.

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Here, the low-level journey to the foot of the fell makes a significant and enjoyable part of the route.

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The steep but relatively short hike up the fellside may deliver amazing views,

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but as Wainwright clearly realised, it's the rocky and desolate summit

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with its stark contrast to the valley below

0:27:440:27:47

that delivers the walker the most inspiration and reward.

0:27:470:27:51

Wainwright left a little corner

0:27:530:27:55

in book three's Helm Crag section -

0:27:550:27:58

"Reserved for an announcement

0:27:580:28:00

"that the author had succeeded

0:28:000:28:01

"in surmounting the highest point,"

0:28:010:28:04

which, of course, he never did.

0:28:040:28:06

Sitting in this evening light on the summit of Helm Crag,

0:28:090:28:12

it's easy to see how this miniature fell winged its way

0:28:120:28:16

into Wainwright's affections,

0:28:160:28:18

and having struggled to the top of this pinnacle,

0:28:180:28:21

I can tell you it's not as easy as it looks from down in Grasmere.

0:28:210:28:25

I think we can forgive AW for not making it to the very, very top...

0:28:250:28:30

a small fell with a tricky proposition.

0:28:300:28:32

Subtitles by Red Bee Media

0:28:510:28:54

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