Our Holiday Coast Coast


Our Holiday Coast

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City life. It's too much.

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Get me to the coast!

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Getting away from the daily grind

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and going on a seaside holiday

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is a ritual that we know and love.

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Escape, adventure, rest or play...

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..they all offer a quick pick-me-up on our Holiday Coast.

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Being by the sea is one of the greatest joys of my life.

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This is me aged nine on one of our annual family holidays.

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Happy memories.

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But why do our salty margins make us feel good?

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As I head coastward from London for the answer,

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the team are on their own holiday quests.

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In North Wales, Miranda's camping. Her aim? To be at one with nature.

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Everybody's bedding down for the night, but not me. I'm going out.

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Ruth's investigating a crime that set the seaside alight.

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They were about to unleash a terror

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that would reverberate around the globe.

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Oh!

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And aeronautical engineer Brendan Walker is flying high

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in pursuit of a holiday attraction with a difference.

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Oh! Yes!

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Suitcase packed, knotted hanky optional,

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this is the Holiday Coast.

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As an island nation, our beaches are our playground.

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We revel in the pleasure of sun, sand and salty air.

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But are our seaside holidays doing more than making us feel good?

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I'm on a mission to find out.

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Is our beeline for the beach biological?

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I'll be taking on as much city stress as I can

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before escaping to the coast to test the theory.

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The tidal Thames sweeps to the sea and back twice a day,

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but with eight million people ebbing and flowing through this city,

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London couldn't feel further from the coast.

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The rush hour, a heaving mass of commuters.

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It's bedlam! Even I, as a hardened Londoner, find this stressful.

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It's easy to see why we crave the peace and quiet of the beach.

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But is our hankering for a holiday all in the mind?

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I'm meeting human geographer Jon Anderson to find out.

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'He's got a nifty bit of kit to take care of the science.'

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By using a small piece of technology we can measure how your body

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responds to the different environments that you're in.

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It measures the electro-dermal activity of your skin

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-and it attaches to your wrist...

-OK.

-..like a straightforward wristwatch.

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-So it's like a stress meter.

-That's exactly what it is.

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OK, Nick. We've set you up now, so your mission, if you chose to

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accept it, is to go off into the city and see how your body responds

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to the different stresses that are around in an urban environment,

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and then we'll meet you later at the coast to look at the results.

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-See you later.

-See you later, bye.

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HEARTBEAT

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'Above and below ground, London's packed.'

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It's going to be very interesting to see whether

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John's machine is detecting any stress levels yet.

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'But swapping two feet for two wheels is a true test of nerve.'

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Riding a bike around Trafalgar Square,

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my heart rate has gone through the roof.

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HEART BEATS FASTER

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Well, I wonder if that was stressful enough to show up on John's meter.

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'Right now I certainly feel the need to escape the city.'

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Next stop, the coast.

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I'm following a route London holiday-makers have been taking

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for centuries,

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heading out of the capital for Margate

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on the Thanet coast.

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Southend-on-Sea will be my first stop.

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'But our love affair with the seaside started much further north

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'at Scarborough, 400 years ago.'

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This is a fascinating view, there's a hugely long sandy beach.

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You've got what looks like a spa, a bathing machine

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and some people floundering in the sea

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and the whole scene's been painted by this artist here.

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He's looking at what would then have been a very unusual scene.

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But it was royalty who made the seaside fashionable to the masses.

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This is George IV, who visited Brighton in 1783.

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Where the King went, others followed.

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The holiday resort was born and quickly bred,

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fuelled by the growth of the railways.

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At Southend, I'm winding down with a shoreline stroll

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before meeting Jon for the test results.

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-HE SNIFFS THE AIR

-The coast!

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'I'm eager to know if the difference between city and sea

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'is reflected in the science.'

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-Hi, Nick.

-Good to see you again.

-How was your walk?

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It was great, I feel very relaxed.

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Shall I give you the stress-o-meter?

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-Fantastic. So we'll just take it off you there.

-There you go.

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And we'll plug it into the computer and upload the data.

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When we see this depicted on this graph,

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we can see actually when you're just ambling through

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the streets of London it's pretty low,

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-we're talking less than one here.

-Right.

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But as soon as you cross a heavy road,

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congestion, engaging with traffic,

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-you get an immediate spike.

-Yeah!

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So we have two immediate spikes there, which are doubling

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and sometimes tripling the nervous energy that your body is

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giving off at that period of time.

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This point here coincides directly with you beginning to get

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on the London Underground.

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We're up to about three or four there, greater than what it was

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when you were crossing the busy streets.

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Something serious happens here.

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-Well, you're getting ready to go cycling at that point.

-Right.

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And then we see an immediate peak when you actually engage with

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that traffic, and we are talking a serious rise. 10, 11, 12, 14.

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-How interesting.

-And not simply

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is it going up in terms of its magnitude,

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it's peaking and troughing at a rapid rate.

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Yeah.

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'But what about walking along a beach?

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'Are the sands at Southend really so soothing?'

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OK, so the data is saying here that there is something

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about the physical environment of the coast that is really

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calming for you, we're talking less than one here.

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Your body was actually far less stressed than it was

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in an urban environment.

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Does that echo in your own experiences of it?

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Absolutely, yeah, I mean I think it's the sound of the waves,

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hypnotic and soothing, it's the feel of the sand under my feet,

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it's the breeze. So I guess it's a combination of all of those

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natural elements kind of washing through the soul.

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What's interesting is that we have a cultural idea

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that going to the coast is good for you,

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but actually we can measure that here, we can put

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a quantifiable figure to the feelings that you've experienced.

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So, there we are.

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The desire to escape the daily grind and head off on holiday

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is a powerful part of our psyche, and, so it seems, our biology.

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# Down by the seaside

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# See the boats go sailing... #

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For most holiday-makers, getting away from it all

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is all that matters.

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But when we do, we're not alone.

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Down by the sea, we're at one with nature.

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We share our holiday coast with a cast of thousands

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day and night.

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And there's nowhere better to see them than our campsites.

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Miranda's taking to the great outdoors

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at Shell Island in North West Wales.

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Her mission, to unearth a natural world that operates

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under cover of darkness.

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At the height of the summer,

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up to 3,000 visitors pitch their tents in these sand dunes.

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This is Europe's largest wild campsite.

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You know I've been camping for as long as I can remember. I've got

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a picture here of me and my mum and my brother. There was something

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really magical about just a thin sheet between you and the stars.

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But today I'm on a holiday with a difference, a dusk-till-dawn safari.

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So when my neighbours are wriggling into their sleeping bags, I want to

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find out what's coming out to play on the other side of the canvas.

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'We aren't the only ones making the most of the holiday coast.

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'With just a few hours before the sun goes down, I'm heading out

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'to get the lie of the land.'

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This place is a microcosm of every coastal habitat.

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Half a square mile of wildlife heaven.

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Shell is a tidal island,

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a stunning mix of sand dunes,

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salt marshes and mudflats,

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with a breathtaking rocky beach too.

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And the name?

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Well, in the spring up to 200 different types of shell

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can be found washed up on the shore here,

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and some of them are so tiny.

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Just look how many you can fit on a 5p piece.

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Nature's all around us here, but I'm on the hunt for the creatures

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that normally stay hidden on our holiday coast.

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'Richard Workman's family run the campsite.

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'They have proof that the rich pickings provided

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'by campers are a magnet for wildlife, like this weasel.

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'It has little body fat so has to feed frequently.'

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How brilliant is that?

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-And he just runs out.

-MIRANDA LAUGHS

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It's a great place to hide.

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-There he is, sticking his head up.

-Bold as brass!

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Very cheeky little fellow.

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Every day there's something different.

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You've got the badger setts.

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It's really unusual to have a badger sett right by the sea.

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Yeah, you get people coming in about food

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getting robbed out of their tents.

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When you ask them was there any beer or anything stolen,

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they say no, and you know then straight away it's the badgers, cos

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people won't go into the tents and take food and not the beer as well.

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MIRANDA LAUGHS Haven't worked out how to get the tops off yet.

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'So, why have the badgers come here to the coast?

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'Wildlife expert Brian McDonald is taking me to their sett.'

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-What a lovely spot.

-The badgers' summer home.

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It's amazing to be in this location, really.

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Why on earth are they digging a sett here, right on the coast?

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Well, several reasons. It's easy to dig in this light soil, but more

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importantly cos the campsite is behind, so lots of grassland,

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lots of worms, lots of cockchafers

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and lots of campers' food.

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They're omnivores like us, and they do eat a big range of food.

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The Welsh name for them translates as earth pig,

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and you've only got to hear them snuffling and grunting. And the grip

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they've got in their jaws is just very reminiscent of pigs. Yeah.

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Seaside badgers. That's one for the family album.

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But I'll have to go hi-tech.

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Like any holiday-maker I want to make sure

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I go home with some holiday snaps to remember.

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Infrared cameras will record their behaviour, as badgers come out

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between dusk and dawn.

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'I'll put another camera in the tent,

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'and in the morning we'll see what's been going on.'

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It's really quiet here on the campsite.

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Everybody's bedding down for the night. But not me, I'm going out.

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After dark this holiday coast comes alive.

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But what is the wildlife getting up to?

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First stop, the rock pools.

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I love going rock pooling, but I have never ever done it at night.

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I've got a UV light cos a lot of the things in the rock pools

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actually fluoresce under UV.

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Loads of the seaweed just lights up.

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It's just the maddest thing, there's all sorts of things glowing.

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Just look at these snakelocks anemones down here, look.

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Woo-hoo! It's disco!

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This light show is caused by proteins.

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For the natural world it's just like the illuminations.

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And those little brown shrimp, they've just gone green!

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And his gut, orange.

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'The glow is created by chlorophyll in the algae shrimps eat.

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'Just a little way down the shore, another natural spectacle.

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'The performers? Sandhoppers.'

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Thousands come out at night to perform this aerial ballet.

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Marine biologist David Wilcockson knows all about these tiny

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crustaceans. Amphipods living between shore and sea.

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They are everywhere, aren't they?

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Yep, in the weed line. OK.

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-Oh!

-There you go.

-SHE LAUGHS

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There's...There's too many!

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And why is it important they come out at night?

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At night-time of course there's no sun,

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so they don't dry out. They don't desiccate.

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And this jumping behaviour,

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I mean, if they were a human, how high would they be jumping?

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I did some rough calculations and I reckon about 25-50 metres,

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so they're pretty athletic.

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Jumping keeps them one step ahead of predators.

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Flexing their curved tail propels them forward to cover huge ground.

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Around about dusk they move down and feed on all the washed-up seaweed.

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They're very important in clearing the beach of all this detritus,

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they're called detritivores.

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Sandhoppers aren't the only creatures that clean up at night.

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Badgers are opportunistic hunters, seeking out high-energy foods.

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But have they been caught on camera?

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SHE LAUGHS Oh, no.

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Something's been at my biscuits.

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Look at this, I've been robbed.

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I've got a good idea who that might be.

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Those are definitely all gone.

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SHE LAUGHS Brilliant.

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Right, the moment of truth. I'm going to play

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some of the clips from the stealth cameras and see what we've got.

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SHE LAUGHS

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And we've definitely got badgers. Oh, yeah.

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Sniffing around, walking right in front of the camera.

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It's absolutely brilliant.

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We've got one or two larger ones who look very well fed.

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Of course badgers are social mammals

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so they have quite a sophisticated range of vocalisation

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so they can communicate effectively with each other.

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There's a whole list of different sounds that they can make.

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There's a cluck...

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CLUCK

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..and that's made during play

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and when they're grooming each other.

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And then they've got this sound called kecker which is a long single

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harmonic sound...

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KECKER

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..and that's like a threat sound.

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It's great. Such an insight into what they're doing

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when we're all tucked up in bed.

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Oh, he's going in the tent! He's going in the tent.

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SHE CHUCKLES

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There's one seeing the other one off. Like, "This is my territory,

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"this is my food source."

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SHE LAUGHS He's in the tent,

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he's grabbed the whole thing of biscuits and exited.

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Didn't even stop to eat them.

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Perfect. Oh, that's so brilliant.

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Nature thrives on and sustains our holiday coast.

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Witnessing magical moments, from a beach of shells

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to biscuit-eating badgers, makes us feel pretty good too.

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Our coast is awash with spectacular campsites,

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but for me it's outside the tent where you see the real

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holiday attractions. Nature just quietly getting on with it.

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Nature's adorned our coast with a wealth of wonders.

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Beauty is an obvious lure.

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Basalt columns in the Hebrides and the Giant's Causeway in Ireland.

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But some resorts create their own attractions.

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In the 19th century, every seaside town worth its salt wanted a pier,

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an elegant architectural extension stretching out into the sea.

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It took an impressive feat of engineering to connect

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Southend-on-Sea to the London holiday crowds.

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At almost a mile-and-a-half,

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this is the longest pleasure pier in the world.

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Why did they build this whopper HERE?

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The answer lies in Southend's geology.

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'The tidal estuary is made up of silt, sand and London Clay.

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'At low tide, more than a mile of this slippery stuff

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'lies between the water's edge and dry land.'

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Even at high tide the shallow bay is never more than six metres -

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or 20 feet deep.

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Until the pier was built, large passenger boats carrying Londoners

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out of the city simply sailed straight past.

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The solution?

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An engineering triumph that trumped the troublesome geography

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and put this unapproachable place squarely on the holiday-makers' map.

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'But Southend didn't need a pier to take people out to sea -

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'they needed it to bring people in.'

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The boats might have sailed away, but the pier is no relic of history.

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'The locals keep it alive. Peggy Dowie's passionate about it.'

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It's a love affair really I've had with the pier, coming up here.

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Perhaps riding the train back, the noise of the train, the smell

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of the pier, and to walk right to the end and watch the boats go by

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it was like being in another world. You know, it was really lovely.

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Like any love affair, Peggy and the pier have had turbulent times.

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In 1980, the council actually decided

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the pier was to close indefinitely

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and so, you know, all of us that were there we said, "No we've got

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"to do something," and so my husband and I formed a committee.

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We put on a festival and once the word went out

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people were coming in from all over

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offering their help, and we stopped the pier from closing.

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You're looking as if you're loving being out here.

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Yes, we were both very happy to be doing what we could for the pier.

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Do you think one of the reasons people love piers so much

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is that they're really quite romantic, aren't they?

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Well, they are, because people meet on the end of the pier

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and someone said that they were conceived on the end

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of the pier by their parents.

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Did you spend time courting out here with your husband?

0:22:400:22:43

We used to come up here quite often, have a little kiss and a cuddle...

0:22:430:22:46

-NICK LAUGHS

-..in the corner, a few corners, you know?

0:22:460:22:50

And it was lovely because in the evening sometimes

0:22:500:22:54

when it was off-season

0:22:540:22:55

you'd be quite cold and it was a good excuse to have a cuddle.

0:22:550:22:59

The love of piers is powerful.

0:23:010:23:04

You get to the edge of land

0:23:040:23:06

and have the option to carry on.

0:23:060:23:08

'Walking on water is otherworldly.'

0:23:090:23:12

And what I love about this pier is not only its audacious length

0:23:150:23:19

but what it means to the people of Southend-on-Sea.

0:23:190:23:23

John Betjeman describes it perfectly.

0:23:230:23:26

"The pier is Southend, and Southend is the pier."

0:23:260:23:30

This extension into the sea made Southend

0:23:310:23:35

a quick and easy destination for Londoners.

0:23:350:23:37

'At the end of the pier I'm hitching a lift,

0:23:390:23:42

'just as city visitors of old, for the next leg of my journey.'

0:23:420:23:46

I'm heading for the main attraction, Margate.

0:23:470:23:50

'All around our coast it was by sea that early holiday-makers

0:23:530:23:57

'reached our first resorts.'

0:23:570:23:59

Later, railways connected city and seaside.

0:24:010:24:04

Scots headed for Stonehaven.

0:24:070:24:09

Cromer pulled in Norfolk's crowds.

0:24:110:24:13

On Cornwall's Atlantic coast there was Newquay.

0:24:150:24:19

And in Wales, Llandudno took its share of the tourist trade.

0:24:200:24:24

But for Midlanders wanting some sea air, Weston-super-Mare beckoned.

0:24:270:24:34

A destination of dreams...

0:24:380:24:41

..where generations first saw the sea and smiled.

0:24:460:24:50

In 1963, the NSPCC filmed a trip from Birmingham.

0:24:530:24:57

50 years on, the McArdles,

0:24:590:25:01

sisters Ronnie,

0:25:010:25:04

Carole

0:25:040:25:06

and the eldest, June, are recreating the experience.

0:25:060:25:09

We were all excited and happy and clapping and singing.

0:25:100:25:15

# My bonnie lies over the ocean... #

0:25:150:25:19

We was a family that hadn't got anything, but we had each other,

0:25:190:25:23

and you made your fun with your family.

0:25:230:25:25

-We were playing in the street all the time.

-Yeah, yeah.

0:25:250:25:29

# Oh bring back my bonnie to me...

0:25:290:25:33

# Bring back, bring back

0:25:330:25:37

# Oh bring back my bonnie to me. #

0:25:370:25:40

-Do you remember?

-Yes!

0:25:410:25:44

The day before we came I don't think any of us slept that night properly.

0:25:440:25:48

-No, no.

-No.

0:25:480:25:49

Because all we could think of is coming to the sea.

0:25:490:25:52

We were just so excited, weren't we?

0:25:520:25:54

-Yeah.

-We'd never seen the sea.

0:25:540:25:56

When you got to Weston it was like a different world. There was

0:25:590:26:04

all this sea and all these children just running about,

0:26:040:26:07

just really having fun.

0:26:070:26:09

To feel the sea under our feet, it was absolutely lovely. So excited.

0:26:120:26:16

You didn't think about how cold it felt or nothing.

0:26:160:26:18

It was absolutely marvellous.

0:26:180:26:20

You know, it was just huge.

0:26:200:26:22

You didn't know where it was going to end.

0:26:220:26:24

It was an adventure, weren't it, the donkeys?

0:26:260:26:28

-I mean we'd never been near a donkey, had we?

-No, no.

0:26:280:26:31

We had our little buckets and spades,

0:26:480:26:50

that's something else we had.

0:26:500:26:51

We were just so happy with these buckets and spades

0:26:510:26:54

cos a sandcastle to us was just like, you know,

0:26:540:26:56

a wonderful thing to do.

0:26:560:26:58

When we came here it wasn't just a day trip to us.

0:27:000:27:03

It was a big adventure

0:27:030:27:04

and a big holiday.

0:27:040:27:05

Weston's always special, isn't it, now?

0:27:070:27:09

Oh, it is special, yeah.

0:27:090:27:11

Because of that day.

0:27:110:27:13

That day affected me, the excitement of it,

0:27:130:27:16

and I wanted to share that with my family

0:27:160:27:20

'and I still talk about the sea and that with the grandchildren.'

0:27:200:27:24

-It was a lovely time, wasn't it?

-It was, yeah, yeah. You know.

0:27:240:27:27

Beautiful, nice memories.

0:27:270:27:28

# Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside

0:27:300:27:34

# Oh, I do like to be beside the sea... #

0:27:340:27:38

This is the Holiday Coast.

0:27:550:27:57

'Year-round, our great British resorts call us to the edges

0:28:010:28:04

'of our island.

0:28:040:28:05

'On this seaside sojourn we're exploring why

0:28:070:28:10

'being beside the seaside really does make us feel better.'

0:28:100:28:14

Something many resorts have claimed over time.

0:28:150:28:18

Long before its illuminations, Blackpool advertised

0:28:190:28:22

the health-giving properties of its shores.

0:28:220:28:24

And on offer in Pembrokeshire, the benefits of getting close to nature.

0:28:270:28:31

I'm on my way to Margate, on Kent's Thanet coast.

0:28:340:28:37

This place was a curative cut above the rest.

0:28:400:28:43

'I'm here to investigate why people came to Margate as a last resort

0:28:480:28:51

'to literally save their lives.'

0:28:510:28:55

Back in the 18th century it was the ultimate life-saving holiday.

0:28:570:29:01

Making the voyage down from London weren't tourists but patients,

0:29:010:29:06

and they were heading here for a very special treatment.

0:29:060:29:09

The exodus was thanks to this man,

0:29:090:29:12

Dr John Coakley Lettsom.

0:29:120:29:16

Margate's fresh air and clean water were the perfect ingredients

0:29:190:29:23

for a new treatment.

0:29:230:29:25

Sea bathing.

0:29:260:29:28

And in 1791, he founded the Royal Sea Bathing Hospital

0:29:280:29:33

here in Margate.

0:29:330:29:36

The hospital's aim?

0:29:360:29:38

To treat the scrofulous poor of London.

0:29:380:29:41

'But what is scrofula, and why was it so rife among London's poor?'

0:29:430:29:47

-Hello, Shirley.

-Hello.

0:29:470:29:49

'I'm meeting nurse Shirley Bowskill to find out more.'

0:29:490:29:53

Scrofula is tuberculosis of the lymph glands,

0:29:530:29:57

so you had boils in your neck, under your arms, in your groins

0:29:570:30:01

and anywhere that you would actually find a lymph gland.

0:30:010:30:04

Most of the patients that came down to the Sea Bathing

0:30:040:30:07

were actually quite young, from the East End of London.

0:30:070:30:10

I have a book, which is the medical register

0:30:100:30:12

of the Sea Bathing Hospital, dated 1828,

0:30:120:30:15

and if we have a look we have five patients coming in from a workhouse.

0:30:150:30:20

This child, who's 12,

0:30:200:30:22

has enlargement on the right side of his face,

0:30:220:30:25

and most of these you see have gone home with great benefit.

0:30:250:30:29

They were bathed once a day for a quarter of an hour,

0:30:290:30:33

they had three square meals and they weren't all crammed together

0:30:330:30:37

in the slums of the East End of London.

0:30:370:30:39

With the disease running riot, this sea bathing treatment

0:30:490:30:53

was a lifeline for desperate patients.

0:30:530:30:56

This is one of the open-air wards. Its roof of cast iron and glass

0:30:580:31:03

is still intact, and this is all the patients had to protect themselves

0:31:030:31:08

from the elements as they lay out here for months at a time.

0:31:080:31:11

Doctors were trying to harness the power of vitamin D

0:31:120:31:16

from the sun to help tubercular joints,

0:31:160:31:19

and cleanse dirt-ridden London lungs with the fresh sea air.

0:31:190:31:24

This is rather beautiful. It's very peaceful,

0:31:260:31:30

and the building itself is still standing strong.

0:31:300:31:33

Over here is the all-important walkway to the sea

0:31:330:31:37

where patients were wheeled in their beds down to the water.

0:31:370:31:42

'I want to experience what it was like for those first patients

0:31:450:31:49

'taking the plunge in Margate's bracing seas.

0:31:490:31:53

'I'm meeting retired orthopaedic surgeon Ian Stephen.

0:31:530:31:56

'He knows all about the Sea Bathing Hospital

0:31:560:31:59

'and has studied the use of this treatment.'

0:31:590:32:02

Right, this had better work, Ian.

0:32:020:32:03

Well, I'll come with you as far as the water's edge, but no further.

0:32:030:32:07

'I've a feeling this isn't going to be a routine consultation.'

0:32:070:32:11

Now, how far did they used to go? Up to neck, head under?

0:32:110:32:14

Full immersion.

0:32:140:32:15

Is this deep enough, Ian?

0:32:190:32:21

Yes, but get right under.

0:32:210:32:22

HE CRIES OUT

0:32:260:32:28

Oh!

0:32:280:32:29

Ian, it's very cold!

0:32:300:32:32

That's to be expected. It's the North Sea.

0:32:320:32:35

What exactly is the water doing to my body

0:32:350:32:39

apart from giving me hypothermia?

0:32:390:32:41

The salt water is washing out your open sores and helping them to heal.

0:32:410:32:47

I can't feel my body, does that mean its working?

0:32:470:32:50

I think it's probably time you came in.

0:32:500:32:53

'With the London grime washed away I might well have felt some benefit,

0:32:540:32:57

'once I'd warmed up.

0:32:570:33:00

'But it wasn't a cure.'

0:33:000:33:01

TB continued to be a scourge

0:33:050:33:08

until the development of antibiotics in 1944.

0:33:080:33:11

Meanwhile, Margate pioneered new treatments for a different form

0:33:130:33:17

of the disease,

0:33:170:33:18

tuberculosis of the joints.

0:33:180:33:20

So these dolls were used to teach...

0:33:220:33:25

To show the patients what was involved,

0:33:250:33:27

and also to teach nurses what was going to happen.

0:33:270:33:30

This looks excruciatingly uncomfortable,

0:33:300:33:33

-what this model is being subjected to.

-Well,

0:33:330:33:35

it WAS pretty uncomfortable, that's quite right.

0:33:350:33:37

What exactly is this strange cover?

0:33:370:33:40

-This is splintage of the spine.

-The whole-body splintage?

0:33:400:33:44

A whole-body splintage, it's called a plaster bed,

0:33:440:33:47

and in order to prevent sores on the body, the patient

0:33:470:33:50

had to be turned regularly from the front to the back.

0:33:500:33:54

-In the whole splint?

-In the whole splint.

0:33:540:33:56

Forgive me for asking an obvious question,

0:33:560:33:58

but were you ever allowed out of the splint to go to the loo, or...

0:33:580:34:00

No. No, it was a full-time splintage.

0:34:000:34:05

The principle was that in order to allow the bone to heal

0:34:050:34:09

or the joint to heal, you had to splint it 24 hours a day.

0:34:090:34:13

-For how long?

-Probably about two years.

0:34:130:34:16

-Two years locked in that?

-Two years, that's right.

0:34:160:34:19

It was what was referred to

0:34:190:34:22

as long-stay, low-technology treatment.

0:34:220:34:25

What contribution do you think the coast made to the treatment?

0:34:250:34:29

Would it have made any difference, do you think?

0:34:290:34:31

They'd have got the view, the fresh air. The sea air and the winds

0:34:310:34:35

very much helped the psychological treatment, as well.

0:34:350:34:40

Do you really believe that, as a medic, that actually the location

0:34:400:34:43

of your ward, the ambience of the ward, that does make a difference?

0:34:430:34:46

Absolutely. I'm absolutely convinced of it.

0:34:460:34:49

Full-body splints were used into the 1940s

0:34:510:34:54

until antibiotics took over.

0:34:540:34:57

And the hospital?

0:34:580:34:59

It continued to thrive up to the 1990s.

0:34:590:35:02

'Medicinal Margate, recreating body, mind

0:35:050:35:09

'and care-worn spirit.

0:35:090:35:11

'Here, the seaside really was good for you.'

0:35:110:35:15

We're exploring our holiday coast,

0:35:330:35:35

finding out how the seaside can improve our health

0:35:350:35:38

and raise our spirits.

0:35:380:35:40

But while most come to the seaside to put troubles behind them,

0:35:500:35:54

some seek out trouble.

0:35:540:35:56

In 1913, the seaside became the front line

0:35:580:36:01

in an extraordinary episode

0:36:010:36:03

of explosive politics.

0:36:030:36:05

World events shattered the peace of Edwardian St Leonards,

0:36:050:36:09

part of Hastings in Sussex.

0:36:090:36:11

Ruth's investigating a visitor who hid among the holiday crowds.

0:36:120:36:17

100 years ago, St Leonards, with its fun and frivolity,

0:36:240:36:29

was where all manner of visitors rubbed shoulders.

0:36:290:36:32

The strict social boundaries of the time forgotten.

0:36:330:36:37

And among the holiday-makers, someone was using this bustling anonymity

0:36:400:36:45

as perfect cover.

0:36:450:36:47

A mysterious stranger with dark intentions had arrived

0:36:510:36:54

in this unsuspecting seaside town.

0:36:540:36:58

They were about to unleash a terror that would reverberate

0:36:580:37:00

around the globe.

0:37:000:37:02

There's little left to show now.

0:37:040:37:06

'The scene of the crime has a new life as a smart block

0:37:060:37:10

'of upmarket flats. But on the 15th of April 1913,

0:37:100:37:15

'dark deeds were afoot.

0:37:150:37:17

'The target?

0:37:180:37:19

'Levetleigh, one of the town's most prestigious mansions

0:37:190:37:23

'and home to the local MP, Arthur Du Cros.'

0:37:230:37:26

In the still small hours someone crept up to the windows and smeared

0:37:280:37:32

them with jam and brown paper to stifle the sound of smashing glass.

0:37:320:37:38

Once they were inside they set fire after fire in room after room.

0:37:380:37:43

Soon the flames broke through the roof, illuminating the night.

0:37:430:37:47

The hungry fire devoured everything in its path.

0:37:500:37:53

In the cold light of dawn crowds gathered

0:37:540:37:57

clamouring for the answer to one question.

0:37:570:37:59

Who did it?

0:38:010:38:02

It seems they left their calling card.

0:38:020:38:04

Suffragettes.

0:38:060:38:08

News that a holiday resort, of all places, had been targeted

0:38:090:38:13

sent shock waves across the world.

0:38:130:38:15

Reports spread that the long-running campaign for women's votes

0:38:170:38:21

had brought violence to the holiday coast.

0:38:210:38:24

So why did this new style of suffragette attack happen here

0:38:260:38:30

in sleepy St Leonards?

0:38:300:38:32

And who was the woman or women who carried it out?

0:38:320:38:35

'St Leonards has a little-known past as a hotbed

0:38:390:38:44

'of formidable female campaigners.

0:38:440:38:46

'There were even suffragette meetings on the beach.'

0:38:530:38:56

'But by 1912 they were losing patience.

0:39:020:39:06

'They had lobbied their MP, Arthur du Cros, to back votes for women

0:39:060:39:09

'in Parliament. When he failed, they accused him of breaking promises.

0:39:090:39:14

'There was a bitter war of words,

0:39:160:39:18

'and yet local campaigners were never questioned about the attack.'

0:39:180:39:23

It seems that the local ladies of St Leonards and Hastings

0:39:260:39:29

didn't have the resolve for an arson attack.

0:39:290:39:32

So who did? Who hid in the holiday crowds?

0:39:340:39:38

Perhaps someone who'd been here before?

0:39:380:39:41

I'm meeting historian Fern Ridell. She's studied the attack

0:39:410:39:45

and has a prime suspect.

0:39:450:39:48

-Hi, Fern.

-Hi, Ruth.

0:39:480:39:50

Hiya. So who do you think carried out these arson attacks?

0:39:500:39:54

Well, for me, the evidence points to really just one person

0:39:540:39:56

and that's Kitty Marion.

0:39:560:39:58

-Gosh, she's rather glamorous, isn't she?

-Isn't she?

0:39:580:40:01

She was a militant suffragette and a music hall star from London.

0:40:010:40:04

And did she have any links to St Leonards?

0:40:040:40:06

Yes, well, she actually performed on the pier behind us

0:40:060:40:09

for a benefit in 1910,

0:40:090:40:12

but part of her life as a music hall star would have been travelling

0:40:120:40:15

around the country, so she obviously had time to make links to Hastings.

0:40:150:40:19

Kitty had been appalled by her experience of the casting couch

0:40:220:40:25

when she toured with end-of-the-pier shows and reviews.

0:40:250:40:28

'She became a committed activist and increasingly militant.'

0:40:280:40:32

And this is not her first act of militancy?

0:40:340:40:36

No, before this point Kitty is doing something that all

0:40:360:40:39

the militant suffragettes are doing and that's breaking windows,

0:40:390:40:42

she is cutting telegraph and telephone wires,

0:40:420:40:44

she's really doing everything that she can to be socially disruptive.

0:40:440:40:47

And has she been in trouble for this? Has she been prosecuted?

0:40:470:40:50

She has. She's had a number of prosecutions relating to

0:40:500:40:53

those sort of offences, and so she's been through the horrific,

0:40:530:40:57

the absolutely awful experience of force-feeding.

0:40:570:41:01

Suffragettes went on hunger strike as a protest against arrest.

0:41:020:41:07

Force-feeding was the brutal response.

0:41:070:41:10

But could that drive someone like Kitty to violence?

0:41:120:41:16

I'm meeting Professor June Purvis to find out.

0:41:160:41:19

I have here some of the original apparatus

0:41:200:41:23

so you can see what it was like.

0:41:230:41:25

Your mouth would be held open with clamps,

0:41:250:41:28

and then these tubes were stuck into you.

0:41:280:41:32

They were either put up your nose or down your throat,

0:41:320:41:37

which was the most horrible process,

0:41:370:41:40

and the women often experienced it as a form of rape,

0:41:400:41:45

because of the overpowering physical force that accompanied the very act.

0:41:450:41:49

-Kitty Marion, for example, she was forcibly fed 232 times.

-Gee.

0:41:490:41:55

Kitty wrote about this experience in her autobiography.

0:41:570:42:01

"At times I felt I should go stark staring mad.

0:42:010:42:05

"The agony was so intense.

0:42:050:42:07

"It made me wrench my head. Now I'm a physical wreck."

0:42:070:42:11

So Kitty had a motive, and the ferocity of the attack in this

0:42:120:42:16

sleepy resort certainly put votes for women centre stage.

0:42:160:42:20

But there's another question.

0:42:210:42:23

How on earth did these women know how to cause such destruction?

0:42:230:42:28

Dr Sidney Alford is an explosives expert.

0:42:290:42:32

Using police reports he's reconstructed devices

0:42:320:42:35

from suffragette attacks.

0:42:350:42:37

This is a bomb. It's a container of gunpowder capable of causing

0:42:370:42:42

very serious damage to a building.

0:42:420:42:44

So these sorts of things were really quite widely available then?

0:42:440:42:47

Widely available,

0:42:470:42:49

but not everyone of course was conversant with their use.

0:42:490:42:52

I noticed in the reports here that we've also got mention

0:42:520:42:55

of things other than gunpowder.

0:42:550:42:56

We've got this rather strange "mixture of lycopodium and pepper".

0:42:560:43:00

-Ah, yes.

-What on earth is that?

0:43:000:43:04

Lycopodium, it is a very, very fine powder, which I'll show you,

0:43:040:43:08

and it burns quite spectacularly. Indeed that is actually what

0:43:080:43:12

used to be used to herald the arrival or departure of a devil

0:43:120:43:16

from a stage. Remember on a stage in Victorian times it would be dark.

0:43:160:43:20

Like flash powder?

0:43:200:43:21

In a dark room,

0:43:210:43:23

if you puffed that across a flame, it gives a spectacular flash.

0:43:230:43:27

Oh!

0:43:280:43:29

Now, this is an ingredient Kitty, as an actress, would have known about.

0:43:320:43:36

Their devices were so concocted that they could cause serious

0:43:360:43:41

damage to the right sort of target structure.

0:43:410:43:44

So it's not an explosive as such?

0:43:440:43:47

Not really.

0:43:470:43:48

Killing people was almost certainly not the primary intention

0:43:480:43:53

of these weapons, but it was a political campaign

0:43:530:43:56

and they wanted to scare people, no doubt.

0:43:560:43:58

'Striking at a seaside town shook society,

0:44:010:44:04

'and in St Leonards it sparked other acts of violence.'

0:44:040:44:07

No-one was ever charged with the MP's house bombing, but Kitty is the

0:44:090:44:14

prime suspect and Fern's uncovered one final piece of evidence.

0:44:140:44:19

When she's arrested for a later attack, she's found to have pictures

0:44:190:44:23

of Arthur Du Cros' house in her possession.

0:44:230:44:25

She also keeps a scrapbook in which she puts newspaper cuttings

0:44:250:44:29

and references and other pictures of all of her attacks in,

0:44:290:44:33

and she keeps Arthur Du Cros' house in amongst that.

0:44:330:44:38

Kitty's actions created stark headlines.

0:44:390:44:42

Ironic then, that just months later a greater conflict overtook

0:44:430:44:48

the campaign of terror.

0:44:480:44:49

World War I. In the run-up to the Great War the suffragettes'

0:44:500:44:54

campaign of violence had been escalating,

0:44:540:44:57

but now the political landscape was to change completely.

0:44:570:45:01

Their fight, and backing for the war effort, paid off.

0:45:010:45:06

In 1918, some women over 30 won their suffrage.

0:45:060:45:11

By then, Kitty had fled to America.

0:45:110:45:13

'But the bombing on this holiday coast had played its part

0:45:150:45:19

'in re-shaping society.

0:45:190:45:22

'Women now had a voice

0:45:220:45:24

'and a vote.'

0:45:240:45:26

Across Britain's holiday coast even resorts that helped

0:45:360:45:40

make our history have seen their fortunes wax and wane.

0:45:400:45:44

Over time tastes change.

0:45:480:45:51

Resorts must change too or lose their appeal.

0:45:510:45:54

Margate's first visitors came to improve their health.

0:45:560:45:59

But more recently it's the town itself that's needed a little TLC

0:46:020:46:07

to restore flagging fortunes.

0:46:070:46:09

It was cheap foreign travel that stole the glamour

0:46:110:46:14

from towns like Margate.

0:46:140:46:15

The British holiday may have been down,

0:46:180:46:21

but it wasn't out for the count.

0:46:210:46:23

The seaside resort had to reinvent itself for a new generation.

0:46:230:46:27

'So how do you teach an old resort new tricks?'

0:46:320:46:36

Here they blend the old with the new.

0:46:360:46:39

And to help me navigate the old town,

0:46:420:46:44

there's nothing like a bit of local knowledge.

0:46:440:46:47

Shall we go?

0:46:470:46:48

Stan the local rickshaw man knows what's bringing tourists here today.

0:46:520:46:57

In the summer, Margate gets absolutely flooded.

0:46:570:47:00

It's the beach mainly,

0:47:000:47:02

the beach brings people from all over the place.

0:47:020:47:04

It has a ripple effect out into the town.

0:47:040:47:08

It's very pretty, isn't it?

0:47:080:47:09

It's lovely. It's the heart really of Margate, the old town.

0:47:090:47:12

You get a lot of tourism from London.

0:47:120:47:14

-Londoners coming down for the day out?

-Yeah, it's all happened because of the Turner, I think.

0:47:140:47:18

It just shows that Margate's on the map, really.

0:47:180:47:21

The Turner Contemporary is the seafront art gallery

0:47:230:47:27

dedicated to the artist who loved this town most, JMW Turner,

0:47:270:47:32

one of our foremost painters of seascapes.

0:47:320:47:35

He came here when the coast called, and in return the town's

0:47:380:47:43

taken him as inspiration for their newest holiday attraction.

0:47:430:47:47

Born in the heart of London, Turner was inspired

0:47:510:47:54

by Margate's ever-changing light.

0:47:540:47:56

He said, "The skies over Thanet

0:47:590:48:03

"are the loveliest in all Europe."

0:48:030:48:06

Three centuries on,

0:48:090:48:11

Turner and those skies are still drawing visitors

0:48:110:48:15

to this holiday coast.

0:48:150:48:17

# Go down to the sea

0:48:290:48:32

# And tell me what it is that you want to be... #

0:48:340:48:37

Beyond sea and sand,

0:48:400:48:42

resorts carve their niche to capture the holiday crowds.

0:48:420:48:47

From the picture-postcard perfection of the Isle of Mull

0:48:480:48:52

to the ride of your life in Blackpool.

0:48:520:48:55

It's all about escaping the drudgery of daily life

0:49:000:49:04

and getting your coastal kicks.

0:49:040:49:06

When post-war holiday-makers flocked to Worthing on the south coast

0:49:080:49:13

they weren't after peace and quiet. They wanted thrills,

0:49:130:49:18

and they found them, in the sky.

0:49:180:49:20

Aeronautical engineer Brendan Walker is investigating an aerial

0:49:220:49:26

extravaganza that would open up new horizons for holiday-makers.

0:49:260:49:31

If you were walking on this beach in the 1950s you would have

0:49:340:49:37

witnessed a glimpse of the future.

0:49:370:49:40

High above the heads of holiday-makers,

0:49:400:49:42

daredevil pilots pushed sleek new jets to their limits.

0:49:420:49:46

Their aim? To set a new world airspeed record.

0:49:480:49:53

Propeller planes were old hat. This was the dawn of the jet age.

0:49:530:49:57

Now I'm on my own mission to uncover who set the records,

0:49:580:50:02

how they did it, and why it all happened here.

0:50:020:50:04

It was an irresistible draw.

0:50:070:50:09

'People came here on holiday to watch the drama unfold.'

0:50:090:50:14

An extraordinary experience for Barry Sprules and Mary Taylor.

0:50:140:50:18

We were always seeing jets whizzing up and down the beach,

0:50:180:50:21

and as a boy of course this was amazing, you know?

0:50:210:50:24

On holiday, and you could see an air show at the same time.

0:50:240:50:27

Have you seen this? It's wonderful.

0:50:270:50:29

That's a group of the people who were watching.

0:50:290:50:31

There it goes, look.

0:50:310:50:32

-Wow, what a fantastic photograph.

-Isn't that a wonderful photograph?

0:50:320:50:35

The fact was it was almost the entire length...

0:50:350:50:37

Yes, of course, where you

0:50:370:50:39

happened to live, you came to the nearest part of the beach to stand

0:50:390:50:41

and watch it, and then when it came we all waved to it.

0:50:410:50:44

-THEY LAUGH

-It was just excitement, you know?

0:50:440:50:48

"Is he going to do it?" "I'm sure he is," you know.

0:50:480:50:50

It was that sort of expectation.

0:50:500:50:53

But who was the man in the plane hoping to steal

0:50:570:51:00

the record back from America?

0:51:000:51:02

Neville Duke. In the summer of 1953, Duke and his record attempts

0:51:040:51:09

were the star attraction holiday-makers flocked to see.

0:51:090:51:12

A decorated war veteran before his 22nd birthday, Duke was a cool,

0:51:130:51:18

calculating risk-taker.

0:51:180:51:21

But every time test pilots pushed these prototype jets

0:51:210:51:24

to their limits, they put their lives on the line.

0:51:240:51:27

Idolised as a Boy's Own hero, Duke had the drive and desire

0:51:290:51:33

to be the fastest man in the air.

0:51:330:51:35

I've come to RAF Tangmere, just a stone's throw from the coast.

0:51:470:51:51

Now a museum, its home to Duke's custom-designed red

0:51:530:51:57

Mk III Hawker Hunter.

0:51:570:52:00

Tangmere had played a vital role in the Battle of Britain.

0:52:070:52:11

Post-war, it was the home of the RAF high-speed flight,

0:52:110:52:15

a team of ace pilots and engineers.

0:52:150:52:17

To find out why they chose this stretch of coastline, I'm meeting

0:52:230:52:26

aviation expert Andy Saunders.

0:52:260:52:29

The optimum conditions that are required were often to be found

0:52:290:52:32

on this particular bit of coast. You know, nice sunny skies,

0:52:320:52:36

calm seas. Conditions were perfect.

0:52:360:52:38

The best conditions in the UK

0:52:380:52:40

for flying a world airspeed record.

0:52:400:52:43

So what was the exact course that they flew?

0:52:430:52:45

Well, it was basically between here and the other side of Littlehampton,

0:52:450:52:49

and I've actually got a map here.

0:52:490:52:50

It was a 3km course

0:52:500:52:52

so the aircraft would have flown around here, right past Worthing pier

0:52:520:52:56

and then the actual measured course is this bit here. And it had

0:52:560:53:00

to be a perfectly level flight,

0:53:000:53:02

because obviously if they went into a dive

0:53:020:53:04

then they could build up extra speed and that would be cheating.

0:53:040:53:08

But what was behind the air speed record? Was it just a bit of fun?

0:53:080:53:12

It was deadly serious. This was, you know, the dawn of the Cold War,

0:53:130:53:17

so we wanted to show the Russians that we'd got the fastest

0:53:170:53:19

and the best fighters, but there were also commercial reasons,

0:53:190:53:22

because if they had the aeroplane that was going

0:53:220:53:26

the fastest in the world, then that was a very good sales point.

0:53:260:53:29

So there's a clear reason why this coast is ideal for setting records.

0:53:310:53:36

It's the same reason why holiday-makers are attracted here,

0:53:360:53:38

the wonderful summer weather.

0:53:380:53:41

Cloudless skies mean great visibility,

0:53:410:53:44

and the warm temperature means drier air,

0:53:440:53:46

so fewer sound waves building up to slow the aeroplane down.

0:53:460:53:50

-ARCHIVE:

-From Tangmere airfield in Sussex, Duke takes off to make four runs

0:53:500:53:54

across a 3km course between Rustington and Kingston Gore.

0:53:540:53:58

But with each electrifying record-breaking attempt came danger.

0:53:580:54:03

It's the 1st September 1953.

0:54:030:54:07

Duke accelerates to 550 knots over the coast.

0:54:070:54:11

But as he turns on his afterburners he hears a sickening bang.

0:54:130:54:17

BANGING

0:54:170:54:20

The plane goes into a spin.

0:54:200:54:23

A force of 6.5G crashed down on my ribs and nearly blacked me out.

0:54:230:54:28

Beach and sea were coming closer every second.

0:54:280:54:31

The plane's undercarriage had ripped through the wing. It took all Duke's

0:54:310:54:36

skills to pull the plane up and limp back to base, landing on one wheel.

0:54:360:54:41

Undeterred, just six days later he was ready to try again.

0:54:440:54:48

Summer was ending and the Cold War was hotting up.

0:54:520:54:56

National pride got Neville Duke back in the cockpit.

0:54:560:54:59

What was it like for those early pilots?

0:55:000:55:03

'I want to understand how it felt to race ever faster

0:55:030:55:06

'in those prototype jets.'

0:55:060:55:08

That's why I'm heading up in a Hawker Hunter myself.

0:55:100:55:13

Even 60 years on, this is a truly impressive piece of engineering.

0:55:180:55:23

-RADIO:

-The speed we're picking up is just incredible.

0:55:290:55:33

I wish the camera could see just how much I was smiling right now.

0:55:330:55:36

THEY LAUGH

0:55:360:55:37

And away we go.

0:55:420:55:44

BRENDAN LAUGHS

0:55:440:55:46

Ah, this is fantastic.

0:55:460:55:48

Immediately you can feel the G-force just pushing you

0:55:480:55:51

into the chair, and we're so close to the ground.

0:55:510:55:54

HE LAUGHS

0:55:540:55:56

'Pilots like Duke coped with immense pressures, making split-second

0:55:570:56:02

'decisions that not only set records but could cost them their lives.'

0:56:020:56:06

Picking up some speed now, putting the full power on.

0:56:080:56:10

-You can hear that. It's fantastic.

-Yep.

0:56:100:56:13

Ah...

0:56:130:56:15

That's 4G now.

0:56:150:56:17

-I'm trying to put my hand out there.

-HE LAUGHS

0:56:170:56:20

'At 4G I'm losing my ability to react,

0:56:210:56:24

'and we're way off the pace of Neville Duke.'

0:56:240:56:27

'There are no crowds on the coast today for us, but when Duke set out

0:56:320:56:36

'on that last record-breaking run, holiday-makers lined the route.'

0:56:360:56:40

Here comes the Hunter.

0:56:420:56:43

'So what did Duke feel flying above those holiday crowds?'

0:56:480:56:52

O-o-o-o-oh, yes...!

0:56:530:56:56

HE LAUGHS GLEEFULLY

0:56:560:56:59

'Sheer pleasure.'

0:56:590:57:00

Now it has been revealed that the shy, modest young pilot has

0:57:040:57:07

recaptured the World Speed Record for Britain with an average

0:57:070:57:10

of 727.6 miles an hour.

0:57:100:57:12

Beating the Americans by just 12mph.

0:57:130:57:16

The record was Britain's once more.

0:57:170:57:20

Above these very beaches a battle had been won.

0:57:200:57:23

The quest for speed and air supremacy had become

0:57:230:57:27

a holiday attraction for the whole of Britain.

0:57:270:57:30

Now we take the jet age for granted, flying off on holiday on a whim...

0:57:310:57:36

..all thanks to the pioneers who pushed the limits here

0:57:380:57:41

on our holiday coast.

0:57:410:57:43

We're drawn to our holiday coast for restoration and recreation,

0:57:590:58:06

to refresh body and mind.

0:58:060:58:08

The coast really is good for us.

0:58:100:58:12

'No wonder, then, that we do like to be beside the seaside.'

0:58:170:58:21

But the essence of the coast isn't to be found in the crowds

0:58:240:58:27

and the attractions and the gimmicks.

0:58:270:58:28

For me, it's in the simple pleasure of walking along a beach feeling

0:58:280:58:33

the warmth of the sun and listening to the rustle of the ocean.

0:58:330:58:37

Wish you were here.

0:58:380:58:39

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