Bounty from the Sea Coast


Bounty from the Sea

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This is Coast!

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As islanders, we're surrounded by the sea.

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It shapes and sustains us.

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Beneath the waves lie watery riches, food and other treasures.

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Bounty that defines coastal living,

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and forges fruitful relationships across our seas.

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I'm heading for a unique place,

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a North Atlantic neighbour famous for its bounty.

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Out there is somewhere I've never been, yet always wanted to.

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People call it "nature's larder", and it's simply breathtaking.

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I'm touching down in the Faroe Islands.

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An archipelago of 18 islands, 200 miles north west of Shetland,

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the Faroe Islands are a self-governing nation

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within the Kingdom of Denmark.

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While I'm in lands afar, the rest of the team are casting off

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on their own search for bounty.

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Mark's venturing into unknown waters in the wake of our earliest fishermen.

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We're trying to fish, the boat is burning...

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This is such a risky operation!

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Hermione's discovering how a microscopic bounty

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aroused passions in Victorian art and science.

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Plankton opened up a whole new world of mystery, of the magic of nature.

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Tess is finding out how help from the seashore was

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enlisted to keep Britain flying during the Second World War.

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A German scientist stepped in with a unique solution,

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he would save our skies with seaweed.

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And I'm searching up top and down deep

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for an array of Faroese fodder!

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This is bounty from the sea.

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I'm in the Faroe Islands, a place totally dependent on the sea

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and its riches.

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Out there is a world of opportunity,

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oceans awash with bounty, a natural larder.

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I want to discover what makes the Faroe Islands so reliant on the sea.

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What makes this coast and these waters so fertile?

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To find out, I'm embarking on an island odyssey.

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My journey will take me around the islands, starting in the capital,

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Torshavn, I'm making my way

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to Muli on Bordoy, then to Gjogv on

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Eysturoy where I'll attend a Faroese gathering - including a feast.

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I might be miles from home,

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but Britain has long been linked to this place by bounty.

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The British supplied the first fishing smack in the 1850s

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that took the Faroese fishing fleet offshore,

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creating a population explosion and changing this archipelago forever.

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Today, the Faroe Islands are one of the six biggest suppliers

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of fish into the UK.

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An astonishing 90% of the Faroese export is fish.

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Flourishing North Atlantic waters are home to species such as cod,

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herring, mackerel and salmon.

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Bounty from these seas defines this isolated community

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and surviving the harsh winter months means nothing is off-limits.

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For 400 years, the Grindadrap whale hunt has been a ritual which continues today.

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This custom is controversial

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and draws objections from the wider world.

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Gathering food for the table is a tradition handed down through

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the generations here.

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Be it on land or in the sea, I want to unlock the secrets of these

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bountiful waters by doing some Faroese foraging of my own.

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I'll see what I can bring to the table at the end of my journey.

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But what, beyond fish, thrives in these waters.

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Birgir Enni, a local diver and lifelong underwater forager,

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is taking me in search of other edible treasures.

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-Hello, Birgir!

-Hello. Welcome.

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We're sailing north out of the main town of Torshavn,

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the capital of this little archipelago.

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I'm aboard the Nordslyd, a traditional Faroese schooner,

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built here in the 1940s.

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-What are we looking for, Birgir?

-The mussels, the horse mussels.

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And where do we find Faroese horse mussels?

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Yeah, all around the island you can find them.

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-Yeah?

-Yeah, in the Fjord especially.

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Back home, we predominantly eat the blue mussel.

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Here, on the Faroes, appetites are somewhat bigger.

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-This is one from the British water.

-OK, I'm familiar with these.

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I have one here, this is, this is our mussels.

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That's enormous! It's like a small boat.

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Yeah, yeah. They can be up to 45-years-old.

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They grow very, very slowly.

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They are full of meat - I like them best of all.

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-It's for health, fire food - it makes you strong.

-OK.

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Finding these monsters from the deep means taking the plunge

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and getting wet.

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This is a Faroese swimming costume.

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As Birgir dives into the depths, I'm charged with searching closer to shore.

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But I'm the world's worst snorkeler,

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so the chances of me finding anything are slight.

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Despite its northerly latitude, the water is surprisingly temperate.

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That's because the Faroe Islands sit right in the path

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of the Gulf Stream - a warm Atlantic current that brings nutrient-rich

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waters from the Gulf of Mexico right up into the North Atlantic.

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It makes for waters that never drop below six or seven degrees all year round.

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Such clear conditions are courtesy of strong currents

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and little heavy industry.

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Coupled with a steady temperature and rich supply of plankton,

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it's the perfect habitat for horse mussels.

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These sleeping giants can lie undisturbed for decades,

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growing and growing.

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Living part-buried in the sediment and amongst all this kelp,

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they're not an easy bounty to spot.

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But Birgir has come up trumps!

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Look what Birgir has found.

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Catch a gander at this.

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HE STRUGGLES

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Look at the size of them! Birgir, how old do you think this one is?

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Yeah. 30 years, 30 years..

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-30 years it's been growing just here.

-Yes.

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This is the first contribution to my Faroese feast.

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Look at these.

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You are very welcome.

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Welcome to our garden.

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Surviving on the coast requires ingenuity and resolve.

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It characterises its people who make a life on the edge.

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Our seas promise rich pickings if we can harvest them.

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From the fruitful North Atlantic to the fish-rich North Sea,

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fishing has united coastal communities for thousands of years.

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And this shared heritage stretches back to a time

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when this sea didn't even exist.

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Mark's heading for Ertebolle on the north west coast of Denmark

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to investigate archaeological evidence of the very first

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Europeans to fish at sea.

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7,000 years ago in the Mesolithic period,

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this fjord would have been a lush, bountiful landscape.

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Now flooded, these waters hold the secret to a Stone Age technology

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that would forever change our coast.

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In the 1970s, archaeologists made a remarkable discovery,

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some three metres down on the seabed they found a perfectly preserved

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Stone Age village.

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It would transform our understanding of how people lived in the past.

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I might be in Denmark, but our two coasts were once linked.

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There's the mountains of Scotland.

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That's because a landmass used to connect

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Britain and mainland Europe.

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So, let's put seaweed in, which was once dry land.

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It's known as Doggerland.

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Over the centuries, sea levels rose

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and flat flood plains were reclaimed by the North Sea.

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People were forced to choose which shrinking landmass to follow,

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one towards Britain or one towards mainland Europe.'

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We were once connected across the North Sea with a common culture.

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I've come here to Denmark to find out how discoveries made here

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shed light on our Stone Age ancestors back in Britain.

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Soren Andersen was a principal investigator at the excavation

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of Tybrind Vig, a 7,000-year-old settlement found

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submerged in a fjord.

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Discoveries included pots, tools and graves,

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but there was something more surprising - three boats.

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And I have a slide here where you can see one.

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That's a big one lying on the dry land, on the beach,

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for the first time in 6,500 years!

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I mean, that must be some of the oldest boats in Europe.

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It is, it is. And what surprised us mostly,

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it was ten metres long.

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So, it's an enormous trunk has been used for that boat.

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The boat was proof of a shifting way of life from hunting on land

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to hunting at sea.

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Prior to this, Stone Age people were transient hunter-gatherers.

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By building the first boats, they could now fish from the sea

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and settle on the coast.

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The local museum has built a replica of one of the original boats,

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which contained an unexpected feature.

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What is surprising is that we have had a fireplace or

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hearth to the rear of the boat.

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I mean, it's a completely mad idea, isn't it?

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-Lighting a fire in a wooden boat?

-They had a fire in a wooden boat.

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THEY LAUGH

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It was a discovery that confounded archaeologists.

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Not only had they found evidence the first fishing boats,

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7,000 years ago, Stone Age people

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were taking fire out to sea.

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What was going on?

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This might look like an empty field, but it could unlock the answer.

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In the 1890s, a huge Stone Age rubbish dump or midden was uncovered here.

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It dated to the same period as the boats

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and it was full of millions of shells and fish bones.

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Look! Here we've got some of the shells that have been thrown

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up by animals. Oyster and scallops and all sorts of things here.

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When the midden was originally excavated, it produced many

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really important finds, including this extraordinary, exquisite

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fish hook from the Stone Age.

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This coastal bounty, masses of bones from protein-rich fish

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together with the boats, suggests these people were prolific

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and successful fishermen.

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Among the bones found in the midden, were a number of species that

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were typically caught at night.

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Could that perhaps be the reason for the fires on the boats?

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Eel bones were found in their thousands among the Stone Age rubbish.

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These are fish most active after dark,

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as retired fisherman Enjar Grevy remembers.

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-Hello, Enjar!

-Yes.

-Hi!

-Hi, hi.

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-Can I come on-board?

-Yes.

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Enjar fished for the elusive eel at night using lamp light,

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a practice now banned.

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-Did that attract the eels?

-Yes. Where the lights end,

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you can see the eels come slowly passing by.

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-Sometimes just opposite the boat.

-And then how did you catch them?

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When the light was on and I saw the eel...

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Very slowly, down...

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ding-a-ling-ling...

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-..then pull them in.

-As easy as that?

-Yes.

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The idea that this type of fishing might have origins dating

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back over 7,000 years on this fjord, is something I want to test.

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We've been given special permission by the government to do some

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experimental archaeology to find out how and why

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our Stone Age ancestors might have fished at night.

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Stone Age expert Jacqui Wood is helping me.

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-That should be enough.

-You reckon so?

-Yeah.

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-Right!

-In it goes.

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Findings from the Stone Age boats revealed that embers

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sat on a bed of sand and clay to protect the wood from burning.

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Leave that to settle a little bit and we'll take some logs with us

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to keep it going.

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Off we go!

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Jacqui and assistant Kif have brought along a prehistoric fishing

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kit of harpoons and flares,

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all based on archaeological findings.

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While Stone Age man would have known what to do, for us

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it's more error than trial,

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and it's not long before we're in trouble.

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-Hang on we've got a problem here, Jacqui.

-OK.

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-I've dumped a whole lot of bark at the back there...

-No!

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-..and it's actually burning the boat!

-OK, well...

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This is completely mad, isn't it?

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We're in the middle of the North Sea, in a dug-out canoe.

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I mean, we're trying to fish,

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the boat is burning - this is such a risky operation.

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But it must have been a really sort of profitable one to the

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people in the Mesolithic, or they wouldn't have done it, would they?

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You either drown or you starve.

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With the fire under control, the fishing can get underway.

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Jacqui believes our ancestors used bundles of birch bark

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slotted into sticks as flares.

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-OK, Jacqui. There you go.

-Oh, wow!

-Wow!

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It's amazing how deep you can see into the water.

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Fire had a dual purpose, to light the way and lure the fish.

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It appears that light fools the fish into thinking it's a

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different time of day, or they mistake it for luminescent prey.

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-Isn't that beautiful?

-Isn't that amazing?

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It's just like tea lights, isn't it?

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They're like little tar boats.

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Tar, found in the birch bark, acts as an accelerant,

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creating brilliant candles that burn on the water.

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Do you think they knew about this bark and this extraordinary characteristic of it?

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Oh, absolutely. Because they actually cooked the bark

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underground in pits with fires to get the actual tar off.

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So, there it is. It's burning still on the surface.

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Like little candles, aren't they?

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-You can see how that, that will actually, that light will then go through the water...

-Yep.

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-..and really attract the eel.

-So, basically this would fascinate

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the eels and they'd come to see what it is

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and then we'd actually harpoon them.

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There's something down there, actually.

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My harpoon with a bone point tip is designed for trapping eels.

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But I'm not having much luck.

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I don't think I'd make a very good Mesolithic fisherman!

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THEY CHUCKLE

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We haven't matched the skills of our Stone Age ancestors

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and with eel numbers down and wind conditions less than favourable,

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we leave empty handed.

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But we've proved the principle that you can take fire to sea

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and fish at night.

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After this experiment, I'm completely convinced that

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Stone Age people used lights to fish at night

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here on this fjord.

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A practice they started continued for thousands of years.

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Our forebears were some of the first boat builders

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and advanced fishermen.

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Pioneers in coastal living.

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Their ingenuity enabled them

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to exploit the incredible bounty that lay underneath the sea.

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Our Stone Age ancestors fished to survive.

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The bounty they ate was one they caught themselves

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from unsullied seas.

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Today, our world is one of cleaned, processed, pre-packed bounty.

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And some of what we take out of our waters is wrapped in a problem

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that goes back in - plastic.

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A billion tonnes has been discarded since the '50s, a floating

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coastal scrapheap, which may take thousands of years to degrade.

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In Orford Ness, on the east coast of England, artist Fran Crowe

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is on a mission to turn one person's rubbish into another's bounty.

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I came across a United Nations report

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that estimated on average there are 46,000 pieces of plastic

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floating on every square mile of sea.

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And in a rather mad, crazy moment I decided to set myself a challenge

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of saving one square mile of sea by collecting

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46,000 plastic pieces whilst walking my local beaches.

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It took me a year to do.

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On a typical walk, I'd find maybe 700 pieces,

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even on a beach that looked pristine when you went there.

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And on Orford Ness, I could probably pick up several thousand,

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but I couldn't actually carry everything I saw.

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When I get the stuff home, first of all I have to dry it,

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get the sand off it and so on, but then I start to sort it.

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And I'll sort it by colour, for instance,

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putting all the pink and red plastics together or the blue.

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I also sort it by type,

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so I'm putting bottle tops together, I've got cotton bud sticks here.

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These have definitely been flushed from homes.

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It's the materials for my art and it's my personal bounty from the sea.

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I am making something beautiful with them often.

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That isn't my main purpose,

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but I do hope that what I'm doing will inspire people

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to think differently about these kind of objects and how we use them.

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Today, what I've collected from this tiny bit of Orford Ness,

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I'm going to just put into one big pile.

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This is going to be...

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a seafood soup, harvested by hand from the North Sea.

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To serve, just add water and salt.

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I'm 200 miles offshore from Britain in the Faroe Islands.

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Here, you're never more than three miles from the sea.

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It's made the Faroese experts in coastal living,

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reliant on, and defined by, bounty from these waters.

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I'm on a quest to find out how they survive in the middle of the North Atlantic.

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I've already bagged, with a little bit of help, some giant mussels

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from the deep, now I want to unearth whatever delicacies lurk on land.

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It might look green,

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but this treeless coast is battered by the elements.

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I want to know what can thrive in these conditions and how.

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The Faroes' position in the path of the Gulf Stream

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creates verdant waters,

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rich in bounty, but things are tougher on land.

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Four seasons in one day is the norm

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and being a tiny archipelago in a vast ocean

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means growing anything is a struggle.

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So the locals have learned to harvest other things.

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Sea birds flock to towering cliffs,

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guillemots, scavenging great skuas,

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parading puffins.

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Past and present, the Faroese risk life and limb,

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swinging on a wing and a prayer to net this feathered quarry

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and gather their eggs.

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But when it comes to greens,

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there's a four-legged competitor for these scarce riches.

0:24:450:24:49

Sheep.

0:24:510:24:52

And they're everywhere.

0:24:520:24:54

Already here when the Vikings, the first documented settlers,

0:24:550:24:58

arrived 1,000 years ago,

0:24:580:25:01

they gave this place its name - The Faroes or Land Of The Sheep.

0:25:010:25:06

Today, there are more of them on the islands than there are people.

0:25:060:25:11

As a result, mutton, like fish,

0:25:110:25:14

forms a large part of the Faroese diet.

0:25:140:25:18

But here it doesn't come in its freshest form.

0:25:180:25:21

It's called skerpikjot and it's dried outside in ocean winds,

0:25:230:25:28

another bounty from these seas.

0:25:280:25:31

I'm heading for the tiny hamlet of Muli on Bordoy

0:25:310:25:36

to meet shepherd Archie Black.

0:25:360:25:38

-Hello, Archie.

-Hello, nice meeting you.

0:25:380:25:41

He's going to introduce me to this peculiar Faroese delicacy.

0:25:420:25:46

What do you call this little house?

0:25:480:25:50

This is wind drying house for sheep meat.

0:25:500:25:53

So, this is the meat here hanging up drying, is it?

0:25:530:25:56

Yes, it's the back legs of the sheep.

0:25:560:25:58

This storehouse, as you see, it's very close to the sea

0:25:580:26:01

and during storms the sea salt gets up in the air.

0:26:010:26:05

So the salty air from the sea blows through

0:26:050:26:08

these gaps in the timber walls.

0:26:080:26:10

It blows through, yes. This storehouse is from around 1600.

0:26:100:26:14

There were no refrigerators in those times,

0:26:140:26:16

so it's a way to preserve the meat. It's the only way.

0:26:160:26:20

The skerpikjot can hang for up to six months

0:26:210:26:25

in these little houses, curing in the salt-rich sea air.

0:26:250:26:30

Salt draws out moisture, drying the mutton.

0:26:300:26:33

It also prevents the growth of mould and microbes

0:26:330:26:37

that can turn the meat rancid, making it safe for us to eat.

0:26:370:26:40

But it doesn't do much for the smell.

0:26:410:26:43

Oh, Archie. I really hesitate to ask,

0:26:460:26:49

-but may I try a very, very small piece?

-A very small piece.

0:26:490:26:54

-This is softer than this one.

-Yeah.

-These soft ones - hanging for around

0:26:550:27:01

four, maybe five months.

0:27:010:27:03

And these are harder - seven to eight months.

0:27:030:27:06

I think I'll start with a soft one.

0:27:060:27:09

-A small piece.

-And do you eat it raw?

-Yes.

0:27:140:27:18

Just straight in, this hasn't been cooked?

0:27:180:27:20

Sometimes... No, no. This is just wind dried. You manage.

0:27:200:27:24

HE EXHALES

0:27:240:27:26

Mm.

0:27:310:27:33

You get used to it!

0:27:330:27:35

-I can see you might get used to it.

-Yes.

-It's, um...

0:27:350:27:38

It has two consistencies - the outside that's been dried in

0:27:390:27:43

the wind, which is quite tough, and the inside that's quite soft

0:27:430:27:50

-and like soft cheese.

-Yes.

0:27:500:27:52

But the aroma in your mouth is fantastically powerful.

0:27:520:27:56

-It's very powerful, yeah.

-Yeah.

0:27:560:27:58

-It really goes around your whole mouth.

-Yeah.

0:27:580:28:01

-It goes up the back of your brain...

-Yes.

-..round the back of your head

0:28:010:28:04

and back down.

0:28:040:28:06

Skerpikjot might be an acquired taste,

0:28:090:28:12

but curing and salting meat in remote places like this,

0:28:120:28:16

surrounded by an often angry sea,

0:28:160:28:19

provides a lifeline.

0:28:190:28:21

The isolation of these islands has created a hardy people,

0:28:220:28:26

who, past and present, have used all their resources to survive.

0:28:260:28:31

Food is not the only bounty provided by our seas.

0:28:410:28:46

Artists have long looked to the changing moods

0:28:570:29:01

of our coast for inspiration.

0:29:010:29:03

From the rousing music of Vaughan Williams

0:29:050:29:08

and the epic art of Constable,

0:29:080:29:10

to Coleridge's Rime Of The Ancient Mariner

0:29:100:29:13

and Shakespeare's Tempest.

0:29:130:29:16

And hidden beneath the waves, nature forms its own art.

0:29:190:29:24

An unexpected bounty that fires the imagination.

0:29:250:29:30

It's just a little harder to see.

0:29:300:29:32

On Devon's south coast, Hermione's peering into the deep to uncover

0:29:370:29:42

one of the most fundamental and beautiful bounties within our seas.

0:29:420:29:47

Torquay, a resort built and invented by the Victorians.

0:29:520:29:56

150 years ago, people weren't just promenading up and down the piers,

0:29:590:30:04

they were making the most of the mild climate and the sheltered coves

0:30:040:30:07

in an altogether different way.

0:30:070:30:09

For many Victorians, Torquay was the home of marine zoology and botany.

0:30:110:30:17

The English Riviera once teemed

0:30:170:30:19

with bonneted and bespectacled naturalists.

0:30:190:30:23

And with ready access to sandy beaches and plentiful rock pools,

0:30:230:30:27

they were all prospecting for wonders from the sea.

0:30:270:30:31

They were exploring a life aquatic.

0:30:340:30:37

Now, inside here are some of the world's drifters,

0:30:370:30:40

little algae and animals that float with the currents.

0:30:400:30:44

The Victorians were captivated by the microscopic world of plankton.

0:30:440:30:49

A collective of plants and animals that drift with our tides.

0:30:520:30:57

Most of these tiny floaters are almost impossible to spot with the naked eye.

0:30:590:31:04

They are no one species, shape or size.

0:31:050:31:09

Found in vast numbers throughout the world's ocean,

0:31:090:31:13

they underpin the marine food chain.

0:31:130:31:16

But 150 years ago,

0:31:180:31:21

how on Earth could the Victorians even see this minute bounty from the sea?

0:31:210:31:25

I'm meeting historian Kate Williams to find out.

0:31:270:31:30

The Victorians were completely obsessed by

0:31:320:31:34

the microscope and particularly with plankton.

0:31:340:31:37

Plankton opened up a whole new world of mystery, of the magic of nature,

0:31:370:31:41

and also about all this incredible, beautiful detail they could see.

0:31:410:31:46

Microscopes were first invented in the 16th century.

0:31:460:31:50

But it was one Victorian man's obsession with them

0:31:500:31:53

that introduced plankton to the masses.

0:31:530:31:56

Amateur naturalist John Quekett was a microscope fanatic

0:31:580:32:02

who hand made one at aged 15.

0:32:020:32:05

His dream was to develop microscopes for professionals and hobbyists alike.

0:32:060:32:11

Quekett was really leading the way in the idea of what you could see

0:32:120:32:16

under the microscope, particularly with plankton -

0:32:160:32:19

he was obsessed with plankton.

0:32:190:32:20

So, where does plankton come into the story, then?

0:32:200:32:22

Well, plankton is the number one focus of the story.

0:32:220:32:25

He used plankton as essentially a kind of eye test

0:32:250:32:29

for the microscope, so he could check whether

0:32:290:32:31

the microscope's resolution, the magnification was correct.

0:32:310:32:35

And one kind of plankton, known as diatoms,

0:32:380:32:41

would forever be the microscopist's friend.

0:32:410:32:44

Because at every stage of magnification

0:32:440:32:46

their cells reveal new details.

0:32:460:32:49

So much so that they're still used today

0:32:490:32:52

to check microscope resolution.

0:32:520:32:55

As technology advanced, so Quekett's obsession grew.

0:32:550:32:59

He wrote a book which sparked a passion for microscopy

0:32:590:33:03

and plankton amongst the middle classes.

0:33:030:33:05

The Practical Treatise On The Use Of The Microscope,

0:33:050:33:09

-not really a catchy title.

-It's a bestseller!

0:33:090:33:12

No, it is a catchy title, this was a best seller!

0:33:120:33:14

So, this... If we were two Victorian ladies,

0:33:140:33:16

I'd say, "Miss Hermione, give it to me, I want it!"

0:33:160:33:19

Because it was so fascinating.

0:33:190:33:22

He persuaded your average middle class person that

0:33:220:33:24

looking down a microscope was the most fun you could possibly have.

0:33:240:33:30

"The microscope is the most important instrument ever yet

0:33:300:33:34

"bestowed by art on the investigator of nature."

0:33:340:33:37

Microscopes flew off the shelves into the parlours

0:33:400:33:43

of the Victorian middle classes, but they didn't just look at plankton,

0:33:430:33:49

they arranged it into astonishing displays to show to their friends.

0:33:490:33:54

This is a rosette slide.

0:33:570:34:00

Each individual element of the picture

0:34:000:34:03

is a single piece of plankton.

0:34:030:34:05

Dazzled by nature, the Victorians had created a new art form,

0:34:050:34:10

one that you had to gaze down a microscope to admire.

0:34:100:34:14

But how do you manipulate something so tiny into such stunning arrangements?

0:34:150:34:21

One man keeping this Victorian craft alive today

0:34:220:34:25

is plankton arranger Klaus Kemp.

0:34:250:34:27

-Hi, Klaus. Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you, yes.

0:34:300:34:33

Klaus, plankton are so tiny,

0:34:350:34:36

how did the Victorians go about picking them up.

0:34:360:34:39

They were using a thing called a pig's eyelash.

0:34:390:34:42

A pig's eyelash is a long stem

0:34:420:34:46

with a slightly...arrowhead to it,

0:34:460:34:49

which allows them to individually pick up a diatom

0:34:490:34:54

and place it into position.

0:34:540:34:57

Instead of a pig's eyelash, Klaus uses a fine glass needle

0:34:580:35:03

to pick up individual diatoms to place in his artworks.

0:35:030:35:07

I'm desperate to have a go to see if I can pick up a plankton.

0:35:090:35:13

Oh, wow.

0:35:150:35:17

It's just a slide covered in little... Oh, gosh!

0:35:170:35:20

..little, tiny fragments. It's a bit like looking at a slide of glitter.

0:35:200:35:24

OK, I've got the needle positioned over one.

0:35:240:35:27

Right, now drop the needle to touch the diatom.

0:35:270:35:30

Oh, it's lost it. No, it's coming up. It's got...

0:35:300:35:33

-Keep going, keep going. You're going to clear the slide.

-Right, OK.

0:35:330:35:36

-Then move the slide out of the way.

-Klaus, I think it's fallen off.

0:35:360:35:39

-HE GASPS

-What?!

0:35:390:35:41

-I think it's fallen off.

-You're not supposed to make it fall off.

0:35:410:35:45

Klaus, I just don't know how you do this all day.

0:35:450:35:48

It's absolutely impossible.

0:35:480:35:50

Klaus has taken this Victorian art form into the 21st century

0:35:550:36:00

with his own unique style.

0:36:000:36:02

The Victorians and their microscopes opened up the minute world

0:36:050:36:10

of plankton, but they were only beginning to understand

0:36:100:36:14

this bounty's full importance.

0:36:140:36:16

Today, we know that plankton is not only fundamental to life

0:36:170:36:21

in our seas, but to life on dry land, too.

0:36:210:36:24

It emits half of all the oxygen we breathe.

0:36:240:36:28

So, without plankton there would be no fish in the sea

0:36:280:36:31

and probably no you and no me.

0:36:310:36:33

Plankton underpin the very existence of every living thing on Earth.

0:36:330:36:39

And with climate change affecting our seas,

0:36:420:36:45

it's more important than ever to know what's happening to it.

0:36:450:36:48

Marine biologist Richard Kirby is on a mission to measure plankton

0:36:490:36:53

levels around the world, using nothing more than a secchi disc,

0:36:530:36:58

which looks a lot like a dinner plate on a piece of string.

0:36:580:37:01

-Got it?

-Yeah.

0:37:010:37:03

You're measuring the depth at which

0:37:030:37:05

it just disappears from sight beneath the surface.

0:37:050:37:07

The disappearing disc allows Richard to measure

0:37:070:37:11

the density of plankton in the water.

0:37:110:37:14

So, as the disc disappears, the only thing that's preventing us

0:37:140:37:18

from seeing it is the phytoplankton in the water?

0:37:180:37:21

That's right. The creatures that start the whole marine food chain.

0:37:210:37:24

It's just disappearing out of sight now.

0:37:240:37:27

And the depth we're at is 10.4 metres.

0:37:270:37:31

But Richard is just one man and our oceans are vast,

0:37:320:37:35

so he's enlisting the help of sailors around the world to get their own

0:37:350:37:39

secchi discs and submit their data to his survey

0:37:390:37:42

via a mobile phone app.

0:37:420:37:44

Got the app on. Secchi. And now we can input our depth.

0:37:440:37:49

-And we measured 10.4 metres, spot on.

-10.4.

0:37:490:37:52

-And submit.

-And submit.

0:37:520:37:54

Richard's work, like that of the Victorian John Quekett,

0:37:550:37:59

is putting these tiny creatures on the map.

0:37:590:38:01

By engaging seafarers with plankton,

0:38:020:38:05

he's safeguarding the future of this vital bounty from our seas.

0:38:050:38:09

I'm on an overseas treasure hunt.

0:38:340:38:37

My prize?

0:38:370:38:38

Bounty from the sea.

0:38:380:38:40

The Faroe Islands have been dubbed nature's larder.

0:38:420:38:45

I'm on a journey to discover

0:38:450:38:48

why plentiful seas make for rich pickings.

0:38:480:38:52

But when foul tides bring hard times,

0:38:520:38:54

you need a back-up.

0:38:540:38:58

And for the Faroese, that bounty is farmed Atlantic salmon,

0:38:580:39:03

their biggest export.

0:39:030:39:05

There are 25 salmon farms in the Faroes, one in almost every fjord.

0:39:070:39:13

They produce 70,000 tonnes of these slippery slabs of silver every year,

0:39:130:39:19

worth a whopping £265 million.

0:39:190:39:22

They're the number one foreign supplier of salmon into the UK.

0:39:240:39:28

But keeping salmon contained in large numbers like this

0:39:280:39:32

doesn't come without complications.

0:39:320:39:35

The biggest threat to farmed salmon around the world

0:39:380:39:41

is sea lice, a marine parasite.

0:39:410:39:44

These copepods are a member of the crustacean family,

0:39:450:39:49

like crabs and lobsters.

0:39:490:39:51

Problematic for captive salmon, sea lice also target passing wild fish.

0:39:520:39:57

But here in this tiny archipelago,

0:39:580:40:01

they believe they could have a global solution.

0:40:010:40:04

-Hello, Arni.

-Hello, Nick. Welcome on-board.

-Thank you very much.

0:40:040:40:08

Arni Olsen works for the biggest producer of salmon in the Faroes

0:40:080:40:12

and they're exploiting their unique location.

0:40:120:40:15

We're pioneers when it comes to farming in rough waters,

0:40:150:40:18

because it's probably the farming area where you farm salmon

0:40:180:40:21

with the strongest currents in the world.

0:40:210:40:23

Doesn't it make it difficult for farming?

0:40:230:40:25

It does make it difficult,

0:40:250:40:27

but the current optimises the welfare of the salmon.

0:40:270:40:29

We don't see the same kind of problems. For example, the sea lice

0:40:290:40:33

numbers are much lower than in comparatively weaker currents.

0:40:330:40:36

Farming in fjords with strong currents can stop sea lice

0:40:370:40:41

taking hold, but doesn't eradicate them completely.

0:40:410:40:44

To do that, the Faroese want to move their commercial treasure offshore,

0:40:460:40:50

into the open ocean.

0:40:500:40:52

But colossal seas present mountainous challenges.

0:40:560:41:01

Marine scientist Oystein Patursson is overseeing trials

0:41:010:41:05

that could make this ambition a reality.

0:41:050:41:07

This was deployed on our test site in the open ocean.

0:41:070:41:11

Is this a standard mooring line?

0:41:110:41:13

No, these are more heavy-duty than would be used on a fish farm.

0:41:130:41:18

-And what's the breaking strain on this?

-It's about 100 tonnes.

0:41:180:41:22

-100 tonnes. So, it will hold 100 tonnes of force?

-Yes, yes.

0:41:220:41:25

-And how many of these would hold the...?

-There would be 12 of these.

0:41:250:41:28

-12 of these?!

-Yes.

0:41:280:41:31

That gives you...

0:41:310:41:32

That's an incredible insight into the power of the ocean.

0:41:320:41:36

Sea pens are tethered by a complex mooring system

0:41:370:41:41

of heavy-duty ropes and chains.

0:41:410:41:44

But there's more to open sea farming

0:41:440:41:46

than simply holding the rigs in place.

0:41:460:41:49

-This is all broken.

-Yeah, you see the steel is broken here.

0:41:490:41:52

That's amazing! This has been snapped by the power of the ocean?

0:41:520:41:57

Yeah, just where the... Twist and twist...

0:41:570:41:59

When the waves are moving by,

0:41:590:42:01

-it keeps on twisting and twisting.

-The forces must be fantastic.

0:42:010:42:05

Yeah, we had very large waves during this winter.

0:42:050:42:08

It was 16 or 18 metres and, er...

0:42:080:42:11

-16 or 18 metres? That's taller than a house!

-Yeah.

0:42:110:42:14

The pens need to be strong enough to contain the fish,

0:42:160:42:20

yet flexible enough to roll with wild waters.

0:42:200:42:24

Trials are ongoing to perfect this challenging design.

0:42:240:42:28

By working with all nature can throw at them,

0:42:300:42:33

the Faroese could be the first to solve the sea lice problem.

0:42:330:42:38

If they succeed, they'll be enhancing their own bounty

0:42:380:42:41

and that of salmon farmers around the world.

0:42:410:42:44

Making the most of their seas comes naturally to the Faroese people.

0:42:460:42:51

This resourcefulness was a life saver in World War II.

0:42:510:42:56

With Britain short of food, Faroese fishermen came to our aid,

0:43:120:43:17

landing much-needed bounty at Aberdeen.

0:43:170:43:20

The North Sea was awash with mines, German U-boats lurking.

0:43:210:43:27

And to the south the Battle of the Atlantic raged,

0:43:270:43:30

to keep food and supplies flowing.

0:43:300:43:33

From a quiet corner of Cornwall, Tess is investigating

0:43:370:43:41

how Britain's defence of this precious trade route,

0:43:410:43:44

bringing in vital bounty from the sea, was launched.

0:43:440:43:48

This coastline looks peaceful enough now,

0:43:480:43:50

but during World War II, the Lizard Peninsula was home

0:43:500:43:54

to a crack Air Force squadron,

0:43:540:43:56

flying the deadliest, fastest aircraft, the Mosquito.

0:43:560:44:01

This miraculous aircraft was a product of war,

0:44:080:44:12

built with the sole purpose of taking on the Germans.

0:44:120:44:16

It was the brainchild of aviation pioneer Geoffrey de Havilland.

0:44:160:44:21

In an age of sluggish metal-clad bombers, he broke with convention -

0:44:210:44:26

he made this one out of wood.

0:44:260:44:29

This is a piece of an actual De Havilland Mosquito.

0:44:300:44:33

It was part of the fuselage fished out of the Thames after a crash.

0:44:330:44:37

And if you look here, you can see the outer and inner ply,

0:44:370:44:40

between which is balsa wood, which is incredibly light.

0:44:400:44:44

This whole piece is featherweight.

0:44:440:44:47

De Havilland's wooden aircraft might have seemed vulnerable,

0:44:480:44:51

but it solved the problem of metal shortages

0:44:510:44:54

to become our fastest and most manoeuvrable bomber.

0:44:540:44:57

It was constructed like a giant model plane,

0:44:570:45:01

built in two halves and literally stuck together with glue.

0:45:010:45:05

But what was it like to fly one of these timber terrors?

0:45:080:45:12

I'm meeting Flight Lieutenant Des Curtis,

0:45:140:45:18

one of the last surviving Mosquito crew.

0:45:180:45:21

He flew from an RAF base here on the Lizard Peninsula

0:45:210:45:26

to fight in the Battle of the Atlantic.

0:45:260:45:28

Des, what was it actually like to be in a Mosquito, to fly one?

0:45:280:45:33

Oh, very exhilarating

0:45:330:45:35

because it was the fastest aircraft at the time,

0:45:350:45:38

it was the most versatile aircraft.

0:45:380:45:41

People say that the Spitfire was the most beautiful aircraft,

0:45:410:45:44

but anybody who's ever flown in a Mosquito will tell you

0:45:440:45:47

that was the best aircraft they ever flew.

0:45:470:45:50

During the war, German U-boats sank 15 million tonnes

0:45:520:45:56

of Allied shipping as they sought to starve supplies

0:45:560:46:00

and cripple our war effort.

0:46:000:46:02

The Mosquito's mission was to take these deadly submarines on.

0:46:020:46:07

Our job then was to use this very fast moving Mosquito

0:46:070:46:11

to seek out German U-boats in the Bay of Biscay

0:46:110:46:16

and attack them as they were going in and out of the U-boat pens.

0:46:160:46:20

All this noise going on while you were diving at 30 degrees

0:46:200:46:25

onto the sea, by the time you got near the water level you were

0:46:250:46:28

doing nearly 400 miles an hour,

0:46:280:46:30

which was the maximum speed of a Mosquito.

0:46:300:46:33

This wooden wonder seemed set to win the Battle of the Atlantic,

0:46:360:46:40

but it wasn't long before it, too, came under threat.

0:46:400:46:44

As the German blockade tightened its grip, concerns grew that

0:46:440:46:49

the one vital ingredient needed to make the Mosquito would be cut off.

0:46:490:46:54

Balsa wood was perfect for the job -

0:46:550:46:57

light, strong and just the right compression strength

0:46:570:47:01

for the manufacturing of Mosquitos.

0:47:010:47:03

Only one problem, it came from Ecuador.

0:47:030:47:07

With a raw material from the far side of the world

0:47:090:47:12

and nothing even remotely similar on home soil,

0:47:120:47:15

the race was on to create a substitute.

0:47:150:47:19

The answer would come from an unexpected source.

0:47:190:47:23

A German scientist stepped in with a unique solution -

0:47:240:47:28

he would save our skies with bounty from our seas.

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Seaweed.

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With or without the German blockade,

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this was one resource we had in abundance around our shores.

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But who would think of building an aircraft out of seaweed?

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Step forward this man, Peter Plesch, a chemist.

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He was tasked with finding a home-grown material

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to keep Mosquitos rolling off the production line.

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Peter was born in Frankfurt,

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but the rise of Nazism in the 1930s forced his Jewish family

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to uproot themselves and flee to England.

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This German scientist had come to the aid of Britain's war effort.

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To tell me more is Philippa Neilson, his granddaughter.

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What do you think was his inspiration as a child?

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Why did he become a scientist?

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Well, his father was a doctor, a medical doctor,

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and one of his patients was Albert Einstein,

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who went on to become a family friend.

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That's not any old scientist, is it?

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No. So, as a child, Einstein would be in and around the family home.

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And here he is, Einstein with that unmistakable brainy hair.

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And Peter, then, in his own right,

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becomes a really eminent professor eventually, doesn't he?

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Yes, he was a specialist in polymer chemistry.

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He went on to write over 160 papers himself

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and, in fact, he wrote the last one when he was aged 90.

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In 1942, Peter Plesch joined a company called Cefoil,

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who were exploring the potential of transforming seaweed

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into a solid material.

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I've actually got a recording here of Peter talking about his first encounter with seaweed.

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Somebody at the Ministry of Aircraft production

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saw this very light and flimsy foam

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and said, "If you can make this material up to a certain standard

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"of mechanical strength, then we would be interested in this."

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So, the professor buried himself away in his laboratory,

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calculating and concocting experiments using alginates,

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a substance derived from seaweed,

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in a bid to create a substitute for the balsa wood used in the Mosquito.

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His work was top secret.

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This is a letter between staff members at the Ministry of Supply

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and it refers to the company Peter worked for.

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It reads, "MAP," Ministry of Aircraft Production,

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"are contemplating starting a production unit for the manufacture

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"of a solid foam from alginates

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"as a substitute for balsa wood for aircraft."

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"Experiments are understood to have been successful

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"and if the war goes on, this requirement may grow in importance."

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Peter Plesch turned seaweed into this material,

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which is as light and as strong as balsa wood.

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So, how did he do it?

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This is the last surviving piece of Peter Plesch's seaweed substitute

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suitable for the Mosquito.

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But the only evidence for how he created it lies in complex scientific equations.

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To us mere mortals, Peter's research is as clear as mud,

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so in order to crack the code

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I've enlisted the help of a top notch scientist

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and, together, we're going to conduct our own seaweed experiment.

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Dr Katherine Haxton is from Keele University.

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She's brought along some powdered alginate, extracted from seaweed.

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This is what Peter would have had to work with.

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OK, so we've got our solid alginate, and then we add the water to it.

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Alginate doesn't dissolve readily, so it clumps together...

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-It's clotted. So, can I have a go?

-Sure.

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'With a bit of a blend and some foaming agent to add air bubbles

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'to the material and make it light,

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'we have a thick, sticky, gel-like substance.'

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-It's kind of like crystals, almost, isn't it?

-It's quite fibrous.

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Yeah.

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'But this is still a long way from Peter's solid block.

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'So now we need to dry it.'

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So on his scale, to make, say, eight tonnes of alginate,

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he would have to remove 92 tonnes of water.

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That's about 1,000 bath tubs.

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'To do this, Peter turned to an innovative but dangerous method of

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'using electricity and water to dry his material from the inside out.'

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Katherine, I was looking forward to doing this...

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..but, well, nothing's really happening, is it?

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No, we wouldn't necessarily expect to see anything happening,

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but that doesn't mean that nothing's happening on a chemical basis.

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The modern equivalent, or what a 21st-century scientist

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might have reached for, would be a microwave.

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So, last stop is the microwave.

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-Yeah, we'll put it in a microwave and start it drying.

-Great.

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The microwave may speed things up,

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but this could still take a long time.

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I do have a gel that I tried making earlier in the lab,

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-which I can show you.

-OK.

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This was microwaved for about an hour.

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-Right.

-Then it was dried in an oven.

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If you turn it over, you can start to see a sort of

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gel-like structure with bubbles in it to indicate the foamy nature.

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It's incredible to think he came up with this idea

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and worked it and worked it and worked it and made it happen.

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Yeah, it's no insignificant effort. It took a lot of ingenuity,

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a lot of perseverance, to get to the stage he did with the alginates.

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-And, Katherine, he didn't have a microwave.

-No.

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Even with 21st century know-how, we failed to replicate Peter's work,

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a testament to his inventiveness.

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The ingenious German professor had transformed a bounty

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from the sea into a balsa wood replacement destined for the skies.

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So, why didn't we see a fleet of seaweed Mosquitos

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take on the German military?

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I'll let Peter Plesch tell you that.

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By the summer of '44, I had solved the problem.

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I'd produced a material which was good enough

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for the De Havilland engineers, but by then the Battle of the Atlantic

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had turned and the supply of balsa wood was no longer a problem.

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So I solved the problem but not in time.

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If it had been necessary, there was a solution there.

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Using seaweed, an everyday bounty from our seas,

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Peter Plesch achieved the seemingly impossible.

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That it never took off was down to the endeavours

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of the Allied Forces, including the Mosquito pilots

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who gained the upper hand

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and brought the Battle of the Atlantic to a close.

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One of the strange side-effects of war

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is the way it can set imaginations free.

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In the desperate search for solutions,

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there can be extraordinary flashes of inspiration,

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transforming humble seaweed into this, an ingenious wartime bounty.

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I'm nearing the end of my Faroese odyssey.

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I've discovered how the bounty from these seas nourishes a unique people,

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sustaining and maintaining a way of life steeped in tradition,

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but one where both eyes are firmly on the future.

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More than anywhere else, these islands thrive on their bounty.

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I've reached my final destination,

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and having netted my catch on land and sea,

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all that's left to do is eat it.

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I'm heading to a traditional Faroese gathering.

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But rather than bring a bottle, it's bring your bounty.

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TRADITIONAL FAROESE FOLK SINGING

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The setting for my feast is a spectacular natural cut

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in the coastline called a Gjogv, giving this place its name.

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Bounty of all descriptions has been landed here,

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including tradition, like this one, the chain dance.

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TRADITIONAL FAROESE FOLK SINGING

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It was a medieval popular music craze that swept through Europe in the 1200s.

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Dances were a way to share dramatic stories and legends about ancient times.

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They soon spread with travelling sea trade

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and that's how they washed up here in the 13th century.

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Stranded in the middle of the North Atlantic,

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this is now the only place on Earth to still practice this tradition.

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This is storytelling with a real passion,

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which is just rising from the sea and the rock.

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With 70,000 verses, dances can go on all night.

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So a pit-stop for some fuel is a must!

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Time to share my Faroese treasures from the sea.

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Does the Faroese food help make a certain kind of character?

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Yes, of course, of course.

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Because Faroese food is our food and we eat a lot from the sea.

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We're also eating from hills.

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This food comes from around our islands and in our islands.

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Bounty from the sea has shaped these people,

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carving them out like their rocky coastline.

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The Faroese use everything the seas offer to survive.

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In nature's larder nothing is wasted.

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I've learned so much from Faroese Islanders -

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finding bounty on land and sea,

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making a few resources go a very long way.

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It might be tradition here on the Faroes

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but it's a lesson for the rest of the world.

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Our waters are rich with wondrous surprises.

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They inspire, sustain and connect communities across the world.

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Bounty from the sea defines a way of life that all coastal people share.

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