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This is Coast! | 0:00:13 | 0:00:15 | |
As islanders, we're surrounded by the sea. | 0:00:17 | 0:00:21 | |
It shapes and sustains us. | 0:00:21 | 0:00:24 | |
Beneath the waves lie watery riches, food and other treasures. | 0:00:28 | 0:00:34 | |
Bounty that defines coastal living, | 0:00:34 | 0:00:37 | |
and forges fruitful relationships across our seas. | 0:00:37 | 0:00:42 | |
I'm heading for a unique place, | 0:00:43 | 0:00:46 | |
a North Atlantic neighbour famous for its bounty. | 0:00:46 | 0:00:50 | |
Out there is somewhere I've never been, yet always wanted to. | 0:00:50 | 0:00:54 | |
People call it "nature's larder", and it's simply breathtaking. | 0:00:56 | 0:01:01 | |
I'm touching down in the Faroe Islands. | 0:01:10 | 0:01:13 | |
An archipelago of 18 islands, 200 miles north west of Shetland, | 0:01:16 | 0:01:21 | |
the Faroe Islands are a self-governing nation | 0:01:21 | 0:01:24 | |
within the Kingdom of Denmark. | 0:01:24 | 0:01:26 | |
While I'm in lands afar, the rest of the team are casting off | 0:01:27 | 0:01:31 | |
on their own search for bounty. | 0:01:31 | 0:01:34 | |
Mark's venturing into unknown waters in the wake of our earliest fishermen. | 0:01:34 | 0:01:38 | |
We're trying to fish, the boat is burning... | 0:01:38 | 0:01:41 | |
This is such a risky operation! | 0:01:42 | 0:01:44 | |
Hermione's discovering how a microscopic bounty | 0:01:46 | 0:01:49 | |
aroused passions in Victorian art and science. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:53 | |
Plankton opened up a whole new world of mystery, of the magic of nature. | 0:01:53 | 0:01:58 | |
Tess is finding out how help from the seashore was | 0:01:59 | 0:02:02 | |
enlisted to keep Britain flying during the Second World War. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:07 | |
A German scientist stepped in with a unique solution, | 0:02:07 | 0:02:11 | |
he would save our skies with seaweed. | 0:02:11 | 0:02:14 | |
And I'm searching up top and down deep | 0:02:16 | 0:02:19 | |
for an array of Faroese fodder! | 0:02:19 | 0:02:21 | |
This is bounty from the sea. | 0:02:21 | 0:02:25 | |
I'm in the Faroe Islands, a place totally dependent on the sea | 0:02:51 | 0:02:56 | |
and its riches. | 0:02:56 | 0:02:58 | |
Out there is a world of opportunity, | 0:03:01 | 0:03:04 | |
oceans awash with bounty, a natural larder. | 0:03:04 | 0:03:08 | |
I want to discover what makes the Faroe Islands so reliant on the sea. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:13 | |
What makes this coast and these waters so fertile? | 0:03:13 | 0:03:18 | |
To find out, I'm embarking on an island odyssey. | 0:03:18 | 0:03:21 | |
My journey will take me around the islands, starting in the capital, | 0:03:23 | 0:03:28 | |
Torshavn, I'm making my way | 0:03:28 | 0:03:30 | |
to Muli on Bordoy, then to Gjogv on | 0:03:30 | 0:03:34 | |
Eysturoy where I'll attend a Faroese gathering - including a feast. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:40 | |
I might be miles from home, | 0:03:41 | 0:03:43 | |
but Britain has long been linked to this place by bounty. | 0:03:43 | 0:03:47 | |
The British supplied the first fishing smack in the 1850s | 0:03:48 | 0:03:52 | |
that took the Faroese fishing fleet offshore, | 0:03:52 | 0:03:55 | |
creating a population explosion and changing this archipelago forever. | 0:03:55 | 0:04:01 | |
Today, the Faroe Islands are one of the six biggest suppliers | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
of fish into the UK. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:06 | |
An astonishing 90% of the Faroese export is fish. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:13 | |
Flourishing North Atlantic waters are home to species such as cod, | 0:04:14 | 0:04:19 | |
herring, mackerel and salmon. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:21 | |
Bounty from these seas defines this isolated community | 0:04:24 | 0:04:29 | |
and surviving the harsh winter months means nothing is off-limits. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:34 | |
For 400 years, the Grindadrap whale hunt has been a ritual which continues today. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:41 | |
This custom is controversial | 0:04:42 | 0:04:44 | |
and draws objections from the wider world. | 0:04:44 | 0:04:47 | |
Gathering food for the table is a tradition handed down through | 0:04:49 | 0:04:53 | |
the generations here. | 0:04:53 | 0:04:55 | |
Be it on land or in the sea, I want to unlock the secrets of these | 0:04:55 | 0:04:59 | |
bountiful waters by doing some Faroese foraging of my own. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:05 | |
I'll see what I can bring to the table at the end of my journey. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:07 | |
But what, beyond fish, thrives in these waters. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:19 | |
Birgir Enni, a local diver and lifelong underwater forager, | 0:05:19 | 0:05:23 | |
is taking me in search of other edible treasures. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:26 | |
-Hello, Birgir! -Hello. Welcome. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:31 | |
We're sailing north out of the main town of Torshavn, | 0:05:31 | 0:05:35 | |
the capital of this little archipelago. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:37 | |
I'm aboard the Nordslyd, a traditional Faroese schooner, | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
built here in the 1940s. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:46 | |
-What are we looking for, Birgir? -The mussels, the horse mussels. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
And where do we find Faroese horse mussels? | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
Yeah, all around the island you can find them. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
-Yeah? -Yeah, in the Fjord especially. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:00 | |
Back home, we predominantly eat the blue mussel. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:08 | |
Here, on the Faroes, appetites are somewhat bigger. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:13 | |
-This is one from the British water. -OK, I'm familiar with these. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:16 | |
I have one here, this is, this is our mussels. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:21 | |
That's enormous! It's like a small boat. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:23 | |
Yeah, yeah. They can be up to 45-years-old. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:26 | |
They grow very, very slowly. | 0:06:26 | 0:06:28 | |
They are full of meat - I like them best of all. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:31 | |
-It's for health, fire food - it makes you strong. -OK. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:35 | |
Finding these monsters from the deep means taking the plunge | 0:06:36 | 0:06:40 | |
and getting wet. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:42 | |
This is a Faroese swimming costume. | 0:06:44 | 0:06:46 | |
As Birgir dives into the depths, I'm charged with searching closer to shore. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:54 | |
But I'm the world's worst snorkeler, | 0:06:55 | 0:06:57 | |
so the chances of me finding anything are slight. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:00 | |
Despite its northerly latitude, the water is surprisingly temperate. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:17 | |
That's because the Faroe Islands sit right in the path | 0:07:17 | 0:07:21 | |
of the Gulf Stream - a warm Atlantic current that brings nutrient-rich | 0:07:21 | 0:07:26 | |
waters from the Gulf of Mexico right up into the North Atlantic. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:30 | |
It makes for waters that never drop below six or seven degrees all year round. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:35 | |
Such clear conditions are courtesy of strong currents | 0:07:41 | 0:07:45 | |
and little heavy industry. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:47 | |
Coupled with a steady temperature and rich supply of plankton, | 0:07:47 | 0:07:51 | |
it's the perfect habitat for horse mussels. | 0:07:51 | 0:07:55 | |
These sleeping giants can lie undisturbed for decades, | 0:07:56 | 0:08:00 | |
growing and growing. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:03 | |
Living part-buried in the sediment and amongst all this kelp, | 0:08:03 | 0:08:07 | |
they're not an easy bounty to spot. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:11 | |
But Birgir has come up trumps! | 0:08:11 | 0:08:13 | |
Look what Birgir has found. | 0:08:15 | 0:08:19 | |
Catch a gander at this. | 0:08:21 | 0:08:23 | |
HE STRUGGLES | 0:08:23 | 0:08:25 | |
Look at the size of them! Birgir, how old do you think this one is? | 0:08:27 | 0:08:31 | |
Yeah. 30 years, 30 years.. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:34 | |
-30 years it's been growing just here. -Yes. | 0:08:34 | 0:08:37 | |
This is the first contribution to my Faroese feast. | 0:08:37 | 0:08:42 | |
Look at these. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:45 | |
You are very welcome. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:47 | |
Welcome to our garden. | 0:08:47 | 0:08:49 | |
Surviving on the coast requires ingenuity and resolve. | 0:08:51 | 0:08:56 | |
It characterises its people who make a life on the edge. | 0:08:57 | 0:09:02 | |
Our seas promise rich pickings if we can harvest them. | 0:09:03 | 0:09:08 | |
From the fruitful North Atlantic to the fish-rich North Sea, | 0:09:09 | 0:09:15 | |
fishing has united coastal communities for thousands of years. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:20 | |
And this shared heritage stretches back to a time | 0:09:21 | 0:09:25 | |
when this sea didn't even exist. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
Mark's heading for Ertebolle on the north west coast of Denmark | 0:09:31 | 0:09:35 | |
to investigate archaeological evidence of the very first | 0:09:35 | 0:09:39 | |
Europeans to fish at sea. | 0:09:39 | 0:09:41 | |
7,000 years ago in the Mesolithic period, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:51 | |
this fjord would have been a lush, bountiful landscape. | 0:09:51 | 0:09:55 | |
Now flooded, these waters hold the secret to a Stone Age technology | 0:09:55 | 0:10:02 | |
that would forever change our coast. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:05 | |
In the 1970s, archaeologists made a remarkable discovery, | 0:10:07 | 0:10:11 | |
some three metres down on the seabed they found a perfectly preserved | 0:10:11 | 0:10:17 | |
Stone Age village. | 0:10:17 | 0:10:19 | |
It would transform our understanding of how people lived in the past. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:24 | |
I might be in Denmark, but our two coasts were once linked. | 0:10:30 | 0:10:35 | |
There's the mountains of Scotland. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:37 | |
That's because a landmass used to connect | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
Britain and mainland Europe. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:44 | |
So, let's put seaweed in, which was once dry land. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:47 | |
It's known as Doggerland. | 0:10:47 | 0:10:51 | |
Over the centuries, sea levels rose | 0:10:51 | 0:10:53 | |
and flat flood plains were reclaimed by the North Sea. | 0:10:53 | 0:10:57 | |
People were forced to choose which shrinking landmass to follow, | 0:10:57 | 0:11:02 | |
one towards Britain or one towards mainland Europe.' | 0:11:02 | 0:11:07 | |
We were once connected across the North Sea with a common culture. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:12 | |
I've come here to Denmark to find out how discoveries made here | 0:11:12 | 0:11:17 | |
shed light on our Stone Age ancestors back in Britain. | 0:11:17 | 0:11:21 | |
Soren Andersen was a principal investigator at the excavation | 0:11:25 | 0:11:30 | |
of Tybrind Vig, a 7,000-year-old settlement found | 0:11:30 | 0:11:34 | |
submerged in a fjord. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
Discoveries included pots, tools and graves, | 0:11:37 | 0:11:42 | |
but there was something more surprising - three boats. | 0:11:42 | 0:11:47 | |
And I have a slide here where you can see one. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
That's a big one lying on the dry land, on the beach, | 0:11:50 | 0:11:55 | |
for the first time in 6,500 years! | 0:11:55 | 0:11:57 | |
I mean, that must be some of the oldest boats in Europe. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
It is, it is. And what surprised us mostly, | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
it was ten metres long. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:07 | |
So, it's an enormous trunk has been used for that boat. | 0:12:07 | 0:12:12 | |
The boat was proof of a shifting way of life from hunting on land | 0:12:12 | 0:12:17 | |
to hunting at sea. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
Prior to this, Stone Age people were transient hunter-gatherers. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:24 | |
By building the first boats, they could now fish from the sea | 0:12:24 | 0:12:29 | |
and settle on the coast. | 0:12:29 | 0:12:31 | |
The local museum has built a replica of one of the original boats, | 0:12:32 | 0:12:36 | |
which contained an unexpected feature. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
What is surprising is that we have had a fireplace or | 0:12:39 | 0:12:42 | |
hearth to the rear of the boat. | 0:12:42 | 0:12:45 | |
I mean, it's a completely mad idea, isn't it? | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
-Lighting a fire in a wooden boat? -They had a fire in a wooden boat. | 0:12:48 | 0:12:51 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:12:51 | 0:12:53 | |
It was a discovery that confounded archaeologists. | 0:12:53 | 0:12:57 | |
Not only had they found evidence the first fishing boats, | 0:12:57 | 0:13:01 | |
7,000 years ago, Stone Age people | 0:13:01 | 0:13:05 | |
were taking fire out to sea. | 0:13:05 | 0:13:08 | |
What was going on? | 0:13:08 | 0:13:10 | |
This might look like an empty field, but it could unlock the answer. | 0:13:14 | 0:13:20 | |
In the 1890s, a huge Stone Age rubbish dump or midden was uncovered here. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:27 | |
It dated to the same period as the boats | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
and it was full of millions of shells and fish bones. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:34 | |
Look! Here we've got some of the shells that have been thrown | 0:13:34 | 0:13:37 | |
up by animals. Oyster and scallops and all sorts of things here. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:43 | |
When the midden was originally excavated, it produced many | 0:13:43 | 0:13:47 | |
really important finds, including this extraordinary, exquisite | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
fish hook from the Stone Age. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:54 | |
This coastal bounty, masses of bones from protein-rich fish | 0:13:54 | 0:13:59 | |
together with the boats, suggests these people were prolific | 0:13:59 | 0:14:03 | |
and successful fishermen. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:06 | |
Among the bones found in the midden, were a number of species that | 0:14:06 | 0:14:10 | |
were typically caught at night. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:13 | |
Could that perhaps be the reason for the fires on the boats? | 0:14:13 | 0:14:18 | |
Eel bones were found in their thousands among the Stone Age rubbish. | 0:14:20 | 0:14:24 | |
These are fish most active after dark, | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
as retired fisherman Enjar Grevy remembers. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:32 | |
-Hello, Enjar! -Yes. -Hi! -Hi, hi. | 0:14:32 | 0:14:34 | |
-Can I come on-board? -Yes. | 0:14:34 | 0:14:37 | |
Enjar fished for the elusive eel at night using lamp light, | 0:14:37 | 0:14:42 | |
a practice now banned. | 0:14:42 | 0:14:44 | |
-Did that attract the eels? -Yes. Where the lights end, | 0:14:44 | 0:14:49 | |
you can see the eels come slowly passing by. | 0:14:49 | 0:14:53 | |
-Sometimes just opposite the boat. -And then how did you catch them? | 0:14:53 | 0:14:58 | |
When the light was on and I saw the eel... | 0:14:58 | 0:15:05 | |
Very slowly, down... | 0:15:05 | 0:15:09 | |
ding-a-ling-ling... | 0:15:09 | 0:15:11 | |
-..then pull them in. -As easy as that? -Yes. | 0:15:13 | 0:15:16 | |
The idea that this type of fishing might have origins dating | 0:15:17 | 0:15:22 | |
back over 7,000 years on this fjord, is something I want to test. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:27 | |
We've been given special permission by the government to do some | 0:15:29 | 0:15:33 | |
experimental archaeology to find out how and why | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
our Stone Age ancestors might have fished at night. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:42 | |
Stone Age expert Jacqui Wood is helping me. | 0:15:48 | 0:15:52 | |
-That should be enough. -You reckon so? -Yeah. | 0:15:55 | 0:15:58 | |
-Right! -In it goes. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:01 | |
Findings from the Stone Age boats revealed that embers | 0:16:01 | 0:16:05 | |
sat on a bed of sand and clay to protect the wood from burning. | 0:16:05 | 0:16:09 | |
Leave that to settle a little bit and we'll take some logs with us | 0:16:09 | 0:16:12 | |
to keep it going. | 0:16:12 | 0:16:14 | |
Off we go! | 0:16:14 | 0:16:15 | |
Jacqui and assistant Kif have brought along a prehistoric fishing | 0:16:17 | 0:16:21 | |
kit of harpoons and flares, | 0:16:21 | 0:16:23 | |
all based on archaeological findings. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:27 | |
While Stone Age man would have known what to do, for us | 0:16:27 | 0:16:32 | |
it's more error than trial, | 0:16:32 | 0:16:34 | |
and it's not long before we're in trouble. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:37 | |
-Hang on we've got a problem here, Jacqui. -OK. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:40 | |
-I've dumped a whole lot of bark at the back there... -No! | 0:16:40 | 0:16:43 | |
-..and it's actually burning the boat! -OK, well... | 0:16:43 | 0:16:47 | |
This is completely mad, isn't it? | 0:16:47 | 0:16:50 | |
We're in the middle of the North Sea, in a dug-out canoe. | 0:16:50 | 0:16:53 | |
I mean, we're trying to fish, | 0:16:53 | 0:16:55 | |
the boat is burning - this is such a risky operation. | 0:16:55 | 0:17:00 | |
But it must have been a really sort of profitable one to the | 0:17:00 | 0:17:02 | |
people in the Mesolithic, or they wouldn't have done it, would they? | 0:17:02 | 0:17:05 | |
You either drown or you starve. | 0:17:05 | 0:17:07 | |
With the fire under control, the fishing can get underway. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:13 | |
Jacqui believes our ancestors used bundles of birch bark | 0:17:13 | 0:17:17 | |
slotted into sticks as flares. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
-OK, Jacqui. There you go. -Oh, wow! -Wow! | 0:17:21 | 0:17:26 | |
It's amazing how deep you can see into the water. | 0:17:26 | 0:17:29 | |
Fire had a dual purpose, to light the way and lure the fish. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:35 | |
It appears that light fools the fish into thinking it's a | 0:17:35 | 0:17:39 | |
different time of day, or they mistake it for luminescent prey. | 0:17:39 | 0:17:43 | |
-Isn't that beautiful? -Isn't that amazing? | 0:17:43 | 0:17:46 | |
It's just like tea lights, isn't it? | 0:17:46 | 0:17:49 | |
They're like little tar boats. | 0:17:49 | 0:17:51 | |
Tar, found in the birch bark, acts as an accelerant, | 0:17:51 | 0:17:55 | |
creating brilliant candles that burn on the water. | 0:17:55 | 0:17:59 | |
Do you think they knew about this bark and this extraordinary characteristic of it? | 0:17:59 | 0:18:03 | |
Oh, absolutely. Because they actually cooked the bark | 0:18:03 | 0:18:06 | |
underground in pits with fires to get the actual tar off. | 0:18:06 | 0:18:10 | |
So, there it is. It's burning still on the surface. | 0:18:10 | 0:18:13 | |
Like little candles, aren't they? | 0:18:13 | 0:18:15 | |
-You can see how that, that will actually, that light will then go through the water... -Yep. | 0:18:16 | 0:18:21 | |
-..and really attract the eel. -So, basically this would fascinate | 0:18:21 | 0:18:24 | |
the eels and they'd come to see what it is | 0:18:24 | 0:18:27 | |
and then we'd actually harpoon them. | 0:18:27 | 0:18:29 | |
There's something down there, actually. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:33 | |
My harpoon with a bone point tip is designed for trapping eels. | 0:18:35 | 0:18:41 | |
But I'm not having much luck. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:43 | |
I don't think I'd make a very good Mesolithic fisherman! | 0:18:43 | 0:18:45 | |
THEY CHUCKLE | 0:18:45 | 0:18:48 | |
We haven't matched the skills of our Stone Age ancestors | 0:18:48 | 0:18:51 | |
and with eel numbers down and wind conditions less than favourable, | 0:18:51 | 0:18:56 | |
we leave empty handed. | 0:18:56 | 0:18:58 | |
But we've proved the principle that you can take fire to sea | 0:18:58 | 0:19:02 | |
and fish at night. | 0:19:02 | 0:19:04 | |
After this experiment, I'm completely convinced that | 0:19:05 | 0:19:09 | |
Stone Age people used lights to fish at night | 0:19:09 | 0:19:14 | |
here on this fjord. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:16 | |
A practice they started continued for thousands of years. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:23 | |
Our forebears were some of the first boat builders | 0:19:23 | 0:19:27 | |
and advanced fishermen. | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
Pioneers in coastal living. | 0:19:29 | 0:19:32 | |
Their ingenuity enabled them | 0:19:32 | 0:19:34 | |
to exploit the incredible bounty that lay underneath the sea. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:40 | |
Our Stone Age ancestors fished to survive. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:54 | |
The bounty they ate was one they caught themselves | 0:19:55 | 0:19:59 | |
from unsullied seas. | 0:19:59 | 0:20:01 | |
Today, our world is one of cleaned, processed, pre-packed bounty. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:07 | |
And some of what we take out of our waters is wrapped in a problem | 0:20:08 | 0:20:13 | |
that goes back in - plastic. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:16 | |
A billion tonnes has been discarded since the '50s, a floating | 0:20:17 | 0:20:22 | |
coastal scrapheap, which may take thousands of years to degrade. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:28 | |
In Orford Ness, on the east coast of England, artist Fran Crowe | 0:20:36 | 0:20:41 | |
is on a mission to turn one person's rubbish into another's bounty. | 0:20:41 | 0:20:47 | |
I came across a United Nations report | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
that estimated on average there are 46,000 pieces of plastic | 0:20:50 | 0:20:55 | |
floating on every square mile of sea. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
And in a rather mad, crazy moment I decided to set myself a challenge | 0:20:58 | 0:21:02 | |
of saving one square mile of sea by collecting | 0:21:02 | 0:21:05 | |
46,000 plastic pieces whilst walking my local beaches. | 0:21:05 | 0:21:10 | |
It took me a year to do. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:14 | |
On a typical walk, I'd find maybe 700 pieces, | 0:21:14 | 0:21:17 | |
even on a beach that looked pristine when you went there. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:20 | |
And on Orford Ness, I could probably pick up several thousand, | 0:21:20 | 0:21:24 | |
but I couldn't actually carry everything I saw. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:26 | |
When I get the stuff home, first of all I have to dry it, | 0:21:30 | 0:21:33 | |
get the sand off it and so on, but then I start to sort it. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:36 | |
And I'll sort it by colour, for instance, | 0:21:36 | 0:21:38 | |
putting all the pink and red plastics together or the blue. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:42 | |
I also sort it by type, | 0:21:42 | 0:21:45 | |
so I'm putting bottle tops together, I've got cotton bud sticks here. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:49 | |
These have definitely been flushed from homes. | 0:21:49 | 0:21:52 | |
It's the materials for my art and it's my personal bounty from the sea. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:58 | |
I am making something beautiful with them often. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:07 | |
That isn't my main purpose, | 0:22:07 | 0:22:09 | |
but I do hope that what I'm doing will inspire people | 0:22:09 | 0:22:13 | |
to think differently about these kind of objects and how we use them. | 0:22:13 | 0:22:19 | |
Today, what I've collected from this tiny bit of Orford Ness, | 0:22:21 | 0:22:26 | |
I'm going to just put into one big pile. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:30 | |
This is going to be... | 0:22:30 | 0:22:33 | |
a seafood soup, harvested by hand from the North Sea. | 0:22:33 | 0:22:37 | |
To serve, just add water and salt. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:40 | |
I'm 200 miles offshore from Britain in the Faroe Islands. | 0:22:52 | 0:22:57 | |
Here, you're never more than three miles from the sea. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:02 | |
It's made the Faroese experts in coastal living, | 0:23:03 | 0:23:08 | |
reliant on, and defined by, bounty from these waters. | 0:23:08 | 0:23:13 | |
I'm on a quest to find out how they survive in the middle of the North Atlantic. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:20 | |
I've already bagged, with a little bit of help, some giant mussels | 0:23:21 | 0:23:25 | |
from the deep, now I want to unearth whatever delicacies lurk on land. | 0:23:25 | 0:23:30 | |
It might look green, | 0:23:30 | 0:23:32 | |
but this treeless coast is battered by the elements. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:37 | |
I want to know what can thrive in these conditions and how. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:41 | |
The Faroes' position in the path of the Gulf Stream | 0:23:46 | 0:23:49 | |
creates verdant waters, | 0:23:49 | 0:23:51 | |
rich in bounty, but things are tougher on land. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:55 | |
Four seasons in one day is the norm | 0:23:55 | 0:23:59 | |
and being a tiny archipelago in a vast ocean | 0:23:59 | 0:24:03 | |
means growing anything is a struggle. | 0:24:03 | 0:24:06 | |
So the locals have learned to harvest other things. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:10 | |
Sea birds flock to towering cliffs, | 0:24:10 | 0:24:13 | |
guillemots, scavenging great skuas, | 0:24:13 | 0:24:17 | |
parading puffins. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:19 | |
Past and present, the Faroese risk life and limb, | 0:24:21 | 0:24:26 | |
swinging on a wing and a prayer to net this feathered quarry | 0:24:26 | 0:24:30 | |
and gather their eggs. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:32 | |
But when it comes to greens, | 0:24:42 | 0:24:45 | |
there's a four-legged competitor for these scarce riches. | 0:24:45 | 0:24:49 | |
Sheep. | 0:24:51 | 0:24:52 | |
And they're everywhere. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:54 | |
Already here when the Vikings, the first documented settlers, | 0:24:55 | 0:24:58 | |
arrived 1,000 years ago, | 0:24:58 | 0:25:01 | |
they gave this place its name - The Faroes or Land Of The Sheep. | 0:25:01 | 0:25:06 | |
Today, there are more of them on the islands than there are people. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:11 | |
As a result, mutton, like fish, | 0:25:11 | 0:25:14 | |
forms a large part of the Faroese diet. | 0:25:14 | 0:25:18 | |
But here it doesn't come in its freshest form. | 0:25:18 | 0:25:21 | |
It's called skerpikjot and it's dried outside in ocean winds, | 0:25:23 | 0:25:28 | |
another bounty from these seas. | 0:25:28 | 0:25:31 | |
I'm heading for the tiny hamlet of Muli on Bordoy | 0:25:31 | 0:25:36 | |
to meet shepherd Archie Black. | 0:25:36 | 0:25:38 | |
-Hello, Archie. -Hello, nice meeting you. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:41 | |
He's going to introduce me to this peculiar Faroese delicacy. | 0:25:42 | 0:25:46 | |
What do you call this little house? | 0:25:48 | 0:25:50 | |
This is wind drying house for sheep meat. | 0:25:50 | 0:25:53 | |
So, this is the meat here hanging up drying, is it? | 0:25:53 | 0:25:56 | |
Yes, it's the back legs of the sheep. | 0:25:56 | 0:25:58 | |
This storehouse, as you see, it's very close to the sea | 0:25:58 | 0:26:01 | |
and during storms the sea salt gets up in the air. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:05 | |
So the salty air from the sea blows through | 0:26:05 | 0:26:08 | |
these gaps in the timber walls. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:10 | |
It blows through, yes. This storehouse is from around 1600. | 0:26:10 | 0:26:14 | |
There were no refrigerators in those times, | 0:26:14 | 0:26:16 | |
so it's a way to preserve the meat. It's the only way. | 0:26:16 | 0:26:20 | |
The skerpikjot can hang for up to six months | 0:26:21 | 0:26:25 | |
in these little houses, curing in the salt-rich sea air. | 0:26:25 | 0:26:30 | |
Salt draws out moisture, drying the mutton. | 0:26:30 | 0:26:33 | |
It also prevents the growth of mould and microbes | 0:26:33 | 0:26:37 | |
that can turn the meat rancid, making it safe for us to eat. | 0:26:37 | 0:26:40 | |
But it doesn't do much for the smell. | 0:26:41 | 0:26:43 | |
Oh, Archie. I really hesitate to ask, | 0:26:46 | 0:26:49 | |
-but may I try a very, very small piece? -A very small piece. | 0:26:49 | 0:26:54 | |
-This is softer than this one. -Yeah. -These soft ones - hanging for around | 0:26:55 | 0:27:01 | |
four, maybe five months. | 0:27:01 | 0:27:03 | |
And these are harder - seven to eight months. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:06 | |
I think I'll start with a soft one. | 0:27:06 | 0:27:09 | |
-A small piece. -And do you eat it raw? -Yes. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:18 | |
Just straight in, this hasn't been cooked? | 0:27:18 | 0:27:20 | |
Sometimes... No, no. This is just wind dried. You manage. | 0:27:20 | 0:27:24 | |
HE EXHALES | 0:27:24 | 0:27:26 | |
Mm. | 0:27:31 | 0:27:33 | |
You get used to it! | 0:27:33 | 0:27:35 | |
-I can see you might get used to it. -Yes. -It's, um... | 0:27:35 | 0:27:38 | |
It has two consistencies - the outside that's been dried in | 0:27:39 | 0:27:43 | |
the wind, which is quite tough, and the inside that's quite soft | 0:27:43 | 0:27:50 | |
-and like soft cheese. -Yes. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:52 | |
But the aroma in your mouth is fantastically powerful. | 0:27:52 | 0:27:56 | |
-It's very powerful, yeah. -Yeah. | 0:27:56 | 0:27:58 | |
-It really goes around your whole mouth. -Yeah. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:01 | |
-It goes up the back of your brain... -Yes. -..round the back of your head | 0:28:01 | 0:28:04 | |
and back down. | 0:28:04 | 0:28:06 | |
Skerpikjot might be an acquired taste, | 0:28:09 | 0:28:12 | |
but curing and salting meat in remote places like this, | 0:28:12 | 0:28:16 | |
surrounded by an often angry sea, | 0:28:16 | 0:28:19 | |
provides a lifeline. | 0:28:19 | 0:28:21 | |
The isolation of these islands has created a hardy people, | 0:28:22 | 0:28:26 | |
who, past and present, have used all their resources to survive. | 0:28:26 | 0:28:31 | |
Food is not the only bounty provided by our seas. | 0:28:41 | 0:28:46 | |
Artists have long looked to the changing moods | 0:28:57 | 0:29:01 | |
of our coast for inspiration. | 0:29:01 | 0:29:03 | |
From the rousing music of Vaughan Williams | 0:29:05 | 0:29:08 | |
and the epic art of Constable, | 0:29:08 | 0:29:10 | |
to Coleridge's Rime Of The Ancient Mariner | 0:29:10 | 0:29:13 | |
and Shakespeare's Tempest. | 0:29:13 | 0:29:16 | |
And hidden beneath the waves, nature forms its own art. | 0:29:19 | 0:29:24 | |
An unexpected bounty that fires the imagination. | 0:29:25 | 0:29:30 | |
It's just a little harder to see. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:32 | |
On Devon's south coast, Hermione's peering into the deep to uncover | 0:29:37 | 0:29:42 | |
one of the most fundamental and beautiful bounties within our seas. | 0:29:42 | 0:29:47 | |
Torquay, a resort built and invented by the Victorians. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:56 | |
150 years ago, people weren't just promenading up and down the piers, | 0:29:59 | 0:30:04 | |
they were making the most of the mild climate and the sheltered coves | 0:30:04 | 0:30:07 | |
in an altogether different way. | 0:30:07 | 0:30:09 | |
For many Victorians, Torquay was the home of marine zoology and botany. | 0:30:11 | 0:30:17 | |
The English Riviera once teemed | 0:30:17 | 0:30:19 | |
with bonneted and bespectacled naturalists. | 0:30:19 | 0:30:23 | |
And with ready access to sandy beaches and plentiful rock pools, | 0:30:23 | 0:30:27 | |
they were all prospecting for wonders from the sea. | 0:30:27 | 0:30:31 | |
They were exploring a life aquatic. | 0:30:34 | 0:30:37 | |
Now, inside here are some of the world's drifters, | 0:30:37 | 0:30:40 | |
little algae and animals that float with the currents. | 0:30:40 | 0:30:44 | |
The Victorians were captivated by the microscopic world of plankton. | 0:30:44 | 0:30:49 | |
A collective of plants and animals that drift with our tides. | 0:30:52 | 0:30:57 | |
Most of these tiny floaters are almost impossible to spot with the naked eye. | 0:30:59 | 0:31:04 | |
They are no one species, shape or size. | 0:31:05 | 0:31:09 | |
Found in vast numbers throughout the world's ocean, | 0:31:09 | 0:31:13 | |
they underpin the marine food chain. | 0:31:13 | 0:31:16 | |
But 150 years ago, | 0:31:18 | 0:31:21 | |
how on Earth could the Victorians even see this minute bounty from the sea? | 0:31:21 | 0:31:25 | |
I'm meeting historian Kate Williams to find out. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:30 | |
The Victorians were completely obsessed by | 0:31:32 | 0:31:34 | |
the microscope and particularly with plankton. | 0:31:34 | 0:31:37 | |
Plankton opened up a whole new world of mystery, of the magic of nature, | 0:31:37 | 0:31:41 | |
and also about all this incredible, beautiful detail they could see. | 0:31:41 | 0:31:46 | |
Microscopes were first invented in the 16th century. | 0:31:46 | 0:31:50 | |
But it was one Victorian man's obsession with them | 0:31:50 | 0:31:53 | |
that introduced plankton to the masses. | 0:31:53 | 0:31:56 | |
Amateur naturalist John Quekett was a microscope fanatic | 0:31:58 | 0:32:02 | |
who hand made one at aged 15. | 0:32:02 | 0:32:05 | |
His dream was to develop microscopes for professionals and hobbyists alike. | 0:32:06 | 0:32:11 | |
Quekett was really leading the way in the idea of what you could see | 0:32:12 | 0:32:16 | |
under the microscope, particularly with plankton - | 0:32:16 | 0:32:19 | |
he was obsessed with plankton. | 0:32:19 | 0:32:20 | |
So, where does plankton come into the story, then? | 0:32:20 | 0:32:22 | |
Well, plankton is the number one focus of the story. | 0:32:22 | 0:32:25 | |
He used plankton as essentially a kind of eye test | 0:32:25 | 0:32:29 | |
for the microscope, so he could check whether | 0:32:29 | 0:32:31 | |
the microscope's resolution, the magnification was correct. | 0:32:31 | 0:32:35 | |
And one kind of plankton, known as diatoms, | 0:32:38 | 0:32:41 | |
would forever be the microscopist's friend. | 0:32:41 | 0:32:44 | |
Because at every stage of magnification | 0:32:44 | 0:32:46 | |
their cells reveal new details. | 0:32:46 | 0:32:49 | |
So much so that they're still used today | 0:32:49 | 0:32:52 | |
to check microscope resolution. | 0:32:52 | 0:32:55 | |
As technology advanced, so Quekett's obsession grew. | 0:32:55 | 0:32:59 | |
He wrote a book which sparked a passion for microscopy | 0:32:59 | 0:33:03 | |
and plankton amongst the middle classes. | 0:33:03 | 0:33:05 | |
The Practical Treatise On The Use Of The Microscope, | 0:33:05 | 0:33:09 | |
-not really a catchy title. -It's a bestseller! | 0:33:09 | 0:33:12 | |
No, it is a catchy title, this was a best seller! | 0:33:12 | 0:33:14 | |
So, this... If we were two Victorian ladies, | 0:33:14 | 0:33:16 | |
I'd say, "Miss Hermione, give it to me, I want it!" | 0:33:16 | 0:33:19 | |
Because it was so fascinating. | 0:33:19 | 0:33:22 | |
He persuaded your average middle class person that | 0:33:22 | 0:33:24 | |
looking down a microscope was the most fun you could possibly have. | 0:33:24 | 0:33:30 | |
"The microscope is the most important instrument ever yet | 0:33:30 | 0:33:34 | |
"bestowed by art on the investigator of nature." | 0:33:34 | 0:33:37 | |
Microscopes flew off the shelves into the parlours | 0:33:40 | 0:33:43 | |
of the Victorian middle classes, but they didn't just look at plankton, | 0:33:43 | 0:33:49 | |
they arranged it into astonishing displays to show to their friends. | 0:33:49 | 0:33:54 | |
This is a rosette slide. | 0:33:57 | 0:34:00 | |
Each individual element of the picture | 0:34:00 | 0:34:03 | |
is a single piece of plankton. | 0:34:03 | 0:34:05 | |
Dazzled by nature, the Victorians had created a new art form, | 0:34:05 | 0:34:10 | |
one that you had to gaze down a microscope to admire. | 0:34:10 | 0:34:14 | |
But how do you manipulate something so tiny into such stunning arrangements? | 0:34:15 | 0:34:21 | |
One man keeping this Victorian craft alive today | 0:34:22 | 0:34:25 | |
is plankton arranger Klaus Kemp. | 0:34:25 | 0:34:27 | |
-Hi, Klaus. Nice to meet you. -Nice to meet you, yes. | 0:34:30 | 0:34:33 | |
Klaus, plankton are so tiny, | 0:34:35 | 0:34:36 | |
how did the Victorians go about picking them up. | 0:34:36 | 0:34:39 | |
They were using a thing called a pig's eyelash. | 0:34:39 | 0:34:42 | |
A pig's eyelash is a long stem | 0:34:42 | 0:34:46 | |
with a slightly...arrowhead to it, | 0:34:46 | 0:34:49 | |
which allows them to individually pick up a diatom | 0:34:49 | 0:34:54 | |
and place it into position. | 0:34:54 | 0:34:57 | |
Instead of a pig's eyelash, Klaus uses a fine glass needle | 0:34:58 | 0:35:03 | |
to pick up individual diatoms to place in his artworks. | 0:35:03 | 0:35:07 | |
I'm desperate to have a go to see if I can pick up a plankton. | 0:35:09 | 0:35:13 | |
Oh, wow. | 0:35:15 | 0:35:17 | |
It's just a slide covered in little... Oh, gosh! | 0:35:17 | 0:35:20 | |
..little, tiny fragments. It's a bit like looking at a slide of glitter. | 0:35:20 | 0:35:24 | |
OK, I've got the needle positioned over one. | 0:35:24 | 0:35:27 | |
Right, now drop the needle to touch the diatom. | 0:35:27 | 0:35:30 | |
Oh, it's lost it. No, it's coming up. It's got... | 0:35:30 | 0:35:33 | |
-Keep going, keep going. You're going to clear the slide. -Right, OK. | 0:35:33 | 0:35:36 | |
-Then move the slide out of the way. -Klaus, I think it's fallen off. | 0:35:36 | 0:35:39 | |
-HE GASPS -What?! | 0:35:39 | 0:35:41 | |
-I think it's fallen off. -You're not supposed to make it fall off. | 0:35:41 | 0:35:45 | |
Klaus, I just don't know how you do this all day. | 0:35:45 | 0:35:48 | |
It's absolutely impossible. | 0:35:48 | 0:35:50 | |
Klaus has taken this Victorian art form into the 21st century | 0:35:55 | 0:36:00 | |
with his own unique style. | 0:36:00 | 0:36:02 | |
The Victorians and their microscopes opened up the minute world | 0:36:05 | 0:36:10 | |
of plankton, but they were only beginning to understand | 0:36:10 | 0:36:14 | |
this bounty's full importance. | 0:36:14 | 0:36:16 | |
Today, we know that plankton is not only fundamental to life | 0:36:17 | 0:36:21 | |
in our seas, but to life on dry land, too. | 0:36:21 | 0:36:24 | |
It emits half of all the oxygen we breathe. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:28 | |
So, without plankton there would be no fish in the sea | 0:36:28 | 0:36:31 | |
and probably no you and no me. | 0:36:31 | 0:36:33 | |
Plankton underpin the very existence of every living thing on Earth. | 0:36:33 | 0:36:39 | |
And with climate change affecting our seas, | 0:36:42 | 0:36:45 | |
it's more important than ever to know what's happening to it. | 0:36:45 | 0:36:48 | |
Marine biologist Richard Kirby is on a mission to measure plankton | 0:36:49 | 0:36:53 | |
levels around the world, using nothing more than a secchi disc, | 0:36:53 | 0:36:58 | |
which looks a lot like a dinner plate on a piece of string. | 0:36:58 | 0:37:01 | |
-Got it? -Yeah. | 0:37:01 | 0:37:03 | |
You're measuring the depth at which | 0:37:03 | 0:37:05 | |
it just disappears from sight beneath the surface. | 0:37:05 | 0:37:07 | |
The disappearing disc allows Richard to measure | 0:37:07 | 0:37:11 | |
the density of plankton in the water. | 0:37:11 | 0:37:14 | |
So, as the disc disappears, the only thing that's preventing us | 0:37:14 | 0:37:18 | |
from seeing it is the phytoplankton in the water? | 0:37:18 | 0:37:21 | |
That's right. The creatures that start the whole marine food chain. | 0:37:21 | 0:37:24 | |
It's just disappearing out of sight now. | 0:37:24 | 0:37:27 | |
And the depth we're at is 10.4 metres. | 0:37:27 | 0:37:31 | |
But Richard is just one man and our oceans are vast, | 0:37:32 | 0:37:35 | |
so he's enlisting the help of sailors around the world to get their own | 0:37:35 | 0:37:39 | |
secchi discs and submit their data to his survey | 0:37:39 | 0:37:42 | |
via a mobile phone app. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:44 | |
Got the app on. Secchi. And now we can input our depth. | 0:37:44 | 0:37:49 | |
-And we measured 10.4 metres, spot on. -10.4. | 0:37:49 | 0:37:52 | |
-And submit. -And submit. | 0:37:52 | 0:37:54 | |
Richard's work, like that of the Victorian John Quekett, | 0:37:55 | 0:37:59 | |
is putting these tiny creatures on the map. | 0:37:59 | 0:38:01 | |
By engaging seafarers with plankton, | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
he's safeguarding the future of this vital bounty from our seas. | 0:38:05 | 0:38:09 | |
I'm on an overseas treasure hunt. | 0:38:34 | 0:38:37 | |
My prize? | 0:38:37 | 0:38:38 | |
Bounty from the sea. | 0:38:38 | 0:38:40 | |
The Faroe Islands have been dubbed nature's larder. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:45 | |
I'm on a journey to discover | 0:38:45 | 0:38:48 | |
why plentiful seas make for rich pickings. | 0:38:48 | 0:38:52 | |
But when foul tides bring hard times, | 0:38:52 | 0:38:54 | |
you need a back-up. | 0:38:54 | 0:38:58 | |
And for the Faroese, that bounty is farmed Atlantic salmon, | 0:38:58 | 0:39:03 | |
their biggest export. | 0:39:03 | 0:39:05 | |
There are 25 salmon farms in the Faroes, one in almost every fjord. | 0:39:07 | 0:39:13 | |
They produce 70,000 tonnes of these slippery slabs of silver every year, | 0:39:13 | 0:39:19 | |
worth a whopping £265 million. | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
They're the number one foreign supplier of salmon into the UK. | 0:39:24 | 0:39:28 | |
But keeping salmon contained in large numbers like this | 0:39:28 | 0:39:32 | |
doesn't come without complications. | 0:39:32 | 0:39:35 | |
The biggest threat to farmed salmon around the world | 0:39:38 | 0:39:41 | |
is sea lice, a marine parasite. | 0:39:41 | 0:39:44 | |
These copepods are a member of the crustacean family, | 0:39:45 | 0:39:49 | |
like crabs and lobsters. | 0:39:49 | 0:39:51 | |
Problematic for captive salmon, sea lice also target passing wild fish. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:57 | |
But here in this tiny archipelago, | 0:39:58 | 0:40:01 | |
they believe they could have a global solution. | 0:40:01 | 0:40:04 | |
-Hello, Arni. -Hello, Nick. Welcome on-board. -Thank you very much. | 0:40:04 | 0:40:08 | |
Arni Olsen works for the biggest producer of salmon in the Faroes | 0:40:08 | 0:40:12 | |
and they're exploiting their unique location. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:15 | |
We're pioneers when it comes to farming in rough waters, | 0:40:15 | 0:40:18 | |
because it's probably the farming area where you farm salmon | 0:40:18 | 0:40:21 | |
with the strongest currents in the world. | 0:40:21 | 0:40:23 | |
Doesn't it make it difficult for farming? | 0:40:23 | 0:40:25 | |
It does make it difficult, | 0:40:25 | 0:40:27 | |
but the current optimises the welfare of the salmon. | 0:40:27 | 0:40:29 | |
We don't see the same kind of problems. For example, the sea lice | 0:40:29 | 0:40:33 | |
numbers are much lower than in comparatively weaker currents. | 0:40:33 | 0:40:36 | |
Farming in fjords with strong currents can stop sea lice | 0:40:37 | 0:40:41 | |
taking hold, but doesn't eradicate them completely. | 0:40:41 | 0:40:44 | |
To do that, the Faroese want to move their commercial treasure offshore, | 0:40:46 | 0:40:50 | |
into the open ocean. | 0:40:50 | 0:40:52 | |
But colossal seas present mountainous challenges. | 0:40:56 | 0:41:01 | |
Marine scientist Oystein Patursson is overseeing trials | 0:41:01 | 0:41:05 | |
that could make this ambition a reality. | 0:41:05 | 0:41:07 | |
This was deployed on our test site in the open ocean. | 0:41:07 | 0:41:11 | |
Is this a standard mooring line? | 0:41:11 | 0:41:13 | |
No, these are more heavy-duty than would be used on a fish farm. | 0:41:13 | 0:41:18 | |
-And what's the breaking strain on this? -It's about 100 tonnes. | 0:41:18 | 0:41:22 | |
-100 tonnes. So, it will hold 100 tonnes of force? -Yes, yes. | 0:41:22 | 0:41:25 | |
-And how many of these would hold the...? -There would be 12 of these. | 0:41:25 | 0:41:28 | |
-12 of these?! -Yes. | 0:41:28 | 0:41:31 | |
That gives you... | 0:41:31 | 0:41:32 | |
That's an incredible insight into the power of the ocean. | 0:41:32 | 0:41:36 | |
Sea pens are tethered by a complex mooring system | 0:41:37 | 0:41:41 | |
of heavy-duty ropes and chains. | 0:41:41 | 0:41:44 | |
But there's more to open sea farming | 0:41:44 | 0:41:46 | |
than simply holding the rigs in place. | 0:41:46 | 0:41:49 | |
-This is all broken. -Yeah, you see the steel is broken here. | 0:41:49 | 0:41:52 | |
That's amazing! This has been snapped by the power of the ocean? | 0:41:52 | 0:41:57 | |
Yeah, just where the... Twist and twist... | 0:41:57 | 0:41:59 | |
When the waves are moving by, | 0:41:59 | 0:42:01 | |
-it keeps on twisting and twisting. -The forces must be fantastic. | 0:42:01 | 0:42:05 | |
Yeah, we had very large waves during this winter. | 0:42:05 | 0:42:08 | |
It was 16 or 18 metres and, er... | 0:42:08 | 0:42:11 | |
-16 or 18 metres? That's taller than a house! -Yeah. | 0:42:11 | 0:42:14 | |
The pens need to be strong enough to contain the fish, | 0:42:16 | 0:42:20 | |
yet flexible enough to roll with wild waters. | 0:42:20 | 0:42:24 | |
Trials are ongoing to perfect this challenging design. | 0:42:24 | 0:42:28 | |
By working with all nature can throw at them, | 0:42:30 | 0:42:33 | |
the Faroese could be the first to solve the sea lice problem. | 0:42:33 | 0:42:38 | |
If they succeed, they'll be enhancing their own bounty | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
and that of salmon farmers around the world. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:44 | |
Making the most of their seas comes naturally to the Faroese people. | 0:42:46 | 0:42:51 | |
This resourcefulness was a life saver in World War II. | 0:42:51 | 0:42:56 | |
With Britain short of food, Faroese fishermen came to our aid, | 0:43:12 | 0:43:17 | |
landing much-needed bounty at Aberdeen. | 0:43:17 | 0:43:20 | |
The North Sea was awash with mines, German U-boats lurking. | 0:43:21 | 0:43:27 | |
And to the south the Battle of the Atlantic raged, | 0:43:27 | 0:43:30 | |
to keep food and supplies flowing. | 0:43:30 | 0:43:33 | |
From a quiet corner of Cornwall, Tess is investigating | 0:43:37 | 0:43:41 | |
how Britain's defence of this precious trade route, | 0:43:41 | 0:43:44 | |
bringing in vital bounty from the sea, was launched. | 0:43:44 | 0:43:48 | |
This coastline looks peaceful enough now, | 0:43:48 | 0:43:50 | |
but during World War II, the Lizard Peninsula was home | 0:43:50 | 0:43:54 | |
to a crack Air Force squadron, | 0:43:54 | 0:43:56 | |
flying the deadliest, fastest aircraft, the Mosquito. | 0:43:56 | 0:44:01 | |
This miraculous aircraft was a product of war, | 0:44:08 | 0:44:12 | |
built with the sole purpose of taking on the Germans. | 0:44:12 | 0:44:16 | |
It was the brainchild of aviation pioneer Geoffrey de Havilland. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:21 | |
In an age of sluggish metal-clad bombers, he broke with convention - | 0:44:21 | 0:44:26 | |
he made this one out of wood. | 0:44:26 | 0:44:29 | |
This is a piece of an actual De Havilland Mosquito. | 0:44:30 | 0:44:33 | |
It was part of the fuselage fished out of the Thames after a crash. | 0:44:33 | 0:44:37 | |
And if you look here, you can see the outer and inner ply, | 0:44:37 | 0:44:40 | |
between which is balsa wood, which is incredibly light. | 0:44:40 | 0:44:44 | |
This whole piece is featherweight. | 0:44:44 | 0:44:47 | |
De Havilland's wooden aircraft might have seemed vulnerable, | 0:44:48 | 0:44:51 | |
but it solved the problem of metal shortages | 0:44:51 | 0:44:54 | |
to become our fastest and most manoeuvrable bomber. | 0:44:54 | 0:44:57 | |
It was constructed like a giant model plane, | 0:44:57 | 0:45:01 | |
built in two halves and literally stuck together with glue. | 0:45:01 | 0:45:05 | |
But what was it like to fly one of these timber terrors? | 0:45:08 | 0:45:12 | |
I'm meeting Flight Lieutenant Des Curtis, | 0:45:14 | 0:45:18 | |
one of the last surviving Mosquito crew. | 0:45:18 | 0:45:21 | |
He flew from an RAF base here on the Lizard Peninsula | 0:45:21 | 0:45:26 | |
to fight in the Battle of the Atlantic. | 0:45:26 | 0:45:28 | |
Des, what was it actually like to be in a Mosquito, to fly one? | 0:45:28 | 0:45:33 | |
Oh, very exhilarating | 0:45:33 | 0:45:35 | |
because it was the fastest aircraft at the time, | 0:45:35 | 0:45:38 | |
it was the most versatile aircraft. | 0:45:38 | 0:45:41 | |
People say that the Spitfire was the most beautiful aircraft, | 0:45:41 | 0:45:44 | |
but anybody who's ever flown in a Mosquito will tell you | 0:45:44 | 0:45:47 | |
that was the best aircraft they ever flew. | 0:45:47 | 0:45:50 | |
During the war, German U-boats sank 15 million tonnes | 0:45:52 | 0:45:56 | |
of Allied shipping as they sought to starve supplies | 0:45:56 | 0:46:00 | |
and cripple our war effort. | 0:46:00 | 0:46:02 | |
The Mosquito's mission was to take these deadly submarines on. | 0:46:02 | 0:46:07 | |
Our job then was to use this very fast moving Mosquito | 0:46:07 | 0:46:11 | |
to seek out German U-boats in the Bay of Biscay | 0:46:11 | 0:46:16 | |
and attack them as they were going in and out of the U-boat pens. | 0:46:16 | 0:46:20 | |
All this noise going on while you were diving at 30 degrees | 0:46:20 | 0:46:25 | |
onto the sea, by the time you got near the water level you were | 0:46:25 | 0:46:28 | |
doing nearly 400 miles an hour, | 0:46:28 | 0:46:30 | |
which was the maximum speed of a Mosquito. | 0:46:30 | 0:46:33 | |
This wooden wonder seemed set to win the Battle of the Atlantic, | 0:46:36 | 0:46:40 | |
but it wasn't long before it, too, came under threat. | 0:46:40 | 0:46:44 | |
As the German blockade tightened its grip, concerns grew that | 0:46:44 | 0:46:49 | |
the one vital ingredient needed to make the Mosquito would be cut off. | 0:46:49 | 0:46:54 | |
Balsa wood was perfect for the job - | 0:46:55 | 0:46:57 | |
light, strong and just the right compression strength | 0:46:57 | 0:47:01 | |
for the manufacturing of Mosquitos. | 0:47:01 | 0:47:03 | |
Only one problem, it came from Ecuador. | 0:47:03 | 0:47:07 | |
With a raw material from the far side of the world | 0:47:09 | 0:47:12 | |
and nothing even remotely similar on home soil, | 0:47:12 | 0:47:15 | |
the race was on to create a substitute. | 0:47:15 | 0:47:19 | |
The answer would come from an unexpected source. | 0:47:19 | 0:47:23 | |
A German scientist stepped in with a unique solution - | 0:47:24 | 0:47:28 | |
he would save our skies with bounty from our seas. | 0:47:28 | 0:47:32 | |
Seaweed. | 0:47:32 | 0:47:34 | |
With or without the German blockade, | 0:47:38 | 0:47:40 | |
this was one resource we had in abundance around our shores. | 0:47:40 | 0:47:45 | |
But who would think of building an aircraft out of seaweed? | 0:47:45 | 0:47:49 | |
Step forward this man, Peter Plesch, a chemist. | 0:47:49 | 0:47:53 | |
He was tasked with finding a home-grown material | 0:47:53 | 0:47:56 | |
to keep Mosquitos rolling off the production line. | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
Peter was born in Frankfurt, | 0:48:01 | 0:48:02 | |
but the rise of Nazism in the 1930s forced his Jewish family | 0:48:02 | 0:48:07 | |
to uproot themselves and flee to England. | 0:48:07 | 0:48:11 | |
This German scientist had come to the aid of Britain's war effort. | 0:48:11 | 0:48:15 | |
To tell me more is Philippa Neilson, his granddaughter. | 0:48:15 | 0:48:19 | |
What do you think was his inspiration as a child? | 0:48:20 | 0:48:23 | |
Why did he become a scientist? | 0:48:23 | 0:48:25 | |
Well, his father was a doctor, a medical doctor, | 0:48:25 | 0:48:27 | |
and one of his patients was Albert Einstein, | 0:48:27 | 0:48:30 | |
who went on to become a family friend. | 0:48:30 | 0:48:32 | |
That's not any old scientist, is it? | 0:48:32 | 0:48:34 | |
No. So, as a child, Einstein would be in and around the family home. | 0:48:34 | 0:48:37 | |
And here he is, Einstein with that unmistakable brainy hair. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:42 | |
And Peter, then, in his own right, | 0:48:42 | 0:48:44 | |
becomes a really eminent professor eventually, doesn't he? | 0:48:44 | 0:48:47 | |
Yes, he was a specialist in polymer chemistry. | 0:48:47 | 0:48:50 | |
He went on to write over 160 papers himself | 0:48:50 | 0:48:54 | |
and, in fact, he wrote the last one when he was aged 90. | 0:48:54 | 0:48:58 | |
In 1942, Peter Plesch joined a company called Cefoil, | 0:49:00 | 0:49:05 | |
who were exploring the potential of transforming seaweed | 0:49:05 | 0:49:08 | |
into a solid material. | 0:49:08 | 0:49:10 | |
I've actually got a recording here of Peter talking about his first encounter with seaweed. | 0:49:12 | 0:49:17 | |
Somebody at the Ministry of Aircraft production | 0:49:21 | 0:49:23 | |
saw this very light and flimsy foam | 0:49:23 | 0:49:28 | |
and said, "If you can make this material up to a certain standard | 0:49:28 | 0:49:35 | |
"of mechanical strength, then we would be interested in this." | 0:49:35 | 0:49:39 | |
So, the professor buried himself away in his laboratory, | 0:49:41 | 0:49:45 | |
calculating and concocting experiments using alginates, | 0:49:45 | 0:49:49 | |
a substance derived from seaweed, | 0:49:49 | 0:49:51 | |
in a bid to create a substitute for the balsa wood used in the Mosquito. | 0:49:51 | 0:49:56 | |
His work was top secret. | 0:49:58 | 0:49:59 | |
This is a letter between staff members at the Ministry of Supply | 0:49:59 | 0:50:03 | |
and it refers to the company Peter worked for. | 0:50:03 | 0:50:05 | |
It reads, "MAP," Ministry of Aircraft Production, | 0:50:05 | 0:50:09 | |
"are contemplating starting a production unit for the manufacture | 0:50:09 | 0:50:12 | |
"of a solid foam from alginates | 0:50:12 | 0:50:15 | |
"as a substitute for balsa wood for aircraft." | 0:50:15 | 0:50:18 | |
"Experiments are understood to have been successful | 0:50:18 | 0:50:21 | |
"and if the war goes on, this requirement may grow in importance." | 0:50:21 | 0:50:25 | |
Peter Plesch turned seaweed into this material, | 0:50:29 | 0:50:33 | |
which is as light and as strong as balsa wood. | 0:50:33 | 0:50:37 | |
So, how did he do it? | 0:50:37 | 0:50:39 | |
This is the last surviving piece of Peter Plesch's seaweed substitute | 0:50:41 | 0:50:46 | |
suitable for the Mosquito. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:48 | |
But the only evidence for how he created it lies in complex scientific equations. | 0:50:48 | 0:50:54 | |
To us mere mortals, Peter's research is as clear as mud, | 0:50:57 | 0:51:01 | |
so in order to crack the code | 0:51:01 | 0:51:03 | |
I've enlisted the help of a top notch scientist | 0:51:03 | 0:51:06 | |
and, together, we're going to conduct our own seaweed experiment. | 0:51:06 | 0:51:10 | |
Dr Katherine Haxton is from Keele University. | 0:51:15 | 0:51:18 | |
She's brought along some powdered alginate, extracted from seaweed. | 0:51:18 | 0:51:23 | |
This is what Peter would have had to work with. | 0:51:23 | 0:51:26 | |
OK, so we've got our solid alginate, and then we add the water to it. | 0:51:27 | 0:51:31 | |
Alginate doesn't dissolve readily, so it clumps together... | 0:51:31 | 0:51:35 | |
-It's clotted. So, can I have a go? -Sure. | 0:51:35 | 0:51:38 | |
'With a bit of a blend and some foaming agent to add air bubbles | 0:51:42 | 0:51:46 | |
'to the material and make it light, | 0:51:46 | 0:51:48 | |
'we have a thick, sticky, gel-like substance.' | 0:51:48 | 0:51:52 | |
-It's kind of like crystals, almost, isn't it? -It's quite fibrous. | 0:51:52 | 0:51:56 | |
Yeah. | 0:51:56 | 0:51:58 | |
'But this is still a long way from Peter's solid block. | 0:51:58 | 0:52:02 | |
'So now we need to dry it.' | 0:52:02 | 0:52:04 | |
So on his scale, to make, say, eight tonnes of alginate, | 0:52:04 | 0:52:07 | |
he would have to remove 92 tonnes of water. | 0:52:07 | 0:52:10 | |
That's about 1,000 bath tubs. | 0:52:10 | 0:52:12 | |
'To do this, Peter turned to an innovative but dangerous method of | 0:52:12 | 0:52:16 | |
'using electricity and water to dry his material from the inside out.' | 0:52:16 | 0:52:22 | |
Katherine, I was looking forward to doing this... | 0:52:22 | 0:52:25 | |
..but, well, nothing's really happening, is it? | 0:52:27 | 0:52:31 | |
No, we wouldn't necessarily expect to see anything happening, | 0:52:31 | 0:52:34 | |
but that doesn't mean that nothing's happening on a chemical basis. | 0:52:34 | 0:52:37 | |
The modern equivalent, or what a 21st-century scientist | 0:52:37 | 0:52:40 | |
might have reached for, would be a microwave. | 0:52:40 | 0:52:43 | |
So, last stop is the microwave. | 0:52:43 | 0:52:45 | |
-Yeah, we'll put it in a microwave and start it drying. -Great. | 0:52:45 | 0:52:48 | |
The microwave may speed things up, | 0:52:50 | 0:52:52 | |
but this could still take a long time. | 0:52:52 | 0:52:55 | |
I do have a gel that I tried making earlier in the lab, | 0:52:57 | 0:53:01 | |
-which I can show you. -OK. | 0:53:01 | 0:53:03 | |
This was microwaved for about an hour. | 0:53:03 | 0:53:05 | |
-Right. -Then it was dried in an oven. | 0:53:05 | 0:53:08 | |
If you turn it over, you can start to see a sort of | 0:53:08 | 0:53:11 | |
gel-like structure with bubbles in it to indicate the foamy nature. | 0:53:11 | 0:53:15 | |
It's incredible to think he came up with this idea | 0:53:15 | 0:53:18 | |
and worked it and worked it and worked it and made it happen. | 0:53:18 | 0:53:21 | |
Yeah, it's no insignificant effort. It took a lot of ingenuity, | 0:53:21 | 0:53:25 | |
a lot of perseverance, to get to the stage he did with the alginates. | 0:53:25 | 0:53:29 | |
-And, Katherine, he didn't have a microwave. -No. | 0:53:29 | 0:53:33 | |
Even with 21st century know-how, we failed to replicate Peter's work, | 0:53:34 | 0:53:39 | |
a testament to his inventiveness. | 0:53:39 | 0:53:42 | |
The ingenious German professor had transformed a bounty | 0:53:43 | 0:53:47 | |
from the sea into a balsa wood replacement destined for the skies. | 0:53:47 | 0:53:52 | |
So, why didn't we see a fleet of seaweed Mosquitos | 0:53:54 | 0:53:57 | |
take on the German military? | 0:53:57 | 0:53:59 | |
I'll let Peter Plesch tell you that. | 0:53:59 | 0:54:01 | |
By the summer of '44, I had solved the problem. | 0:54:03 | 0:54:07 | |
I'd produced a material which was good enough | 0:54:07 | 0:54:11 | |
for the De Havilland engineers, but by then the Battle of the Atlantic | 0:54:11 | 0:54:14 | |
had turned and the supply of balsa wood was no longer a problem. | 0:54:14 | 0:54:18 | |
So I solved the problem but not in time. | 0:54:18 | 0:54:22 | |
If it had been necessary, there was a solution there. | 0:54:22 | 0:54:25 | |
Using seaweed, an everyday bounty from our seas, | 0:54:25 | 0:54:29 | |
Peter Plesch achieved the seemingly impossible. | 0:54:29 | 0:54:32 | |
That it never took off was down to the endeavours | 0:54:32 | 0:54:35 | |
of the Allied Forces, including the Mosquito pilots | 0:54:35 | 0:54:39 | |
who gained the upper hand | 0:54:39 | 0:54:41 | |
and brought the Battle of the Atlantic to a close. | 0:54:41 | 0:54:44 | |
One of the strange side-effects of war | 0:54:44 | 0:54:47 | |
is the way it can set imaginations free. | 0:54:47 | 0:54:50 | |
In the desperate search for solutions, | 0:54:50 | 0:54:52 | |
there can be extraordinary flashes of inspiration, | 0:54:52 | 0:54:55 | |
transforming humble seaweed into this, an ingenious wartime bounty. | 0:54:55 | 0:55:01 | |
I'm nearing the end of my Faroese odyssey. | 0:55:12 | 0:55:15 | |
I've discovered how the bounty from these seas nourishes a unique people, | 0:55:17 | 0:55:21 | |
sustaining and maintaining a way of life steeped in tradition, | 0:55:21 | 0:55:27 | |
but one where both eyes are firmly on the future. | 0:55:27 | 0:55:31 | |
More than anywhere else, these islands thrive on their bounty. | 0:55:33 | 0:55:37 | |
I've reached my final destination, | 0:55:38 | 0:55:41 | |
and having netted my catch on land and sea, | 0:55:41 | 0:55:44 | |
all that's left to do is eat it. | 0:55:44 | 0:55:47 | |
I'm heading to a traditional Faroese gathering. | 0:55:50 | 0:55:53 | |
But rather than bring a bottle, it's bring your bounty. | 0:55:53 | 0:55:57 | |
TRADITIONAL FAROESE FOLK SINGING | 0:56:01 | 0:56:05 | |
The setting for my feast is a spectacular natural cut | 0:56:08 | 0:56:12 | |
in the coastline called a Gjogv, giving this place its name. | 0:56:12 | 0:56:16 | |
Bounty of all descriptions has been landed here, | 0:56:16 | 0:56:20 | |
including tradition, like this one, the chain dance. | 0:56:20 | 0:56:24 | |
TRADITIONAL FAROESE FOLK SINGING | 0:56:26 | 0:56:28 | |
It was a medieval popular music craze that swept through Europe in the 1200s. | 0:56:32 | 0:56:39 | |
Dances were a way to share dramatic stories and legends about ancient times. | 0:56:39 | 0:56:43 | |
They soon spread with travelling sea trade | 0:56:43 | 0:56:47 | |
and that's how they washed up here in the 13th century. | 0:56:47 | 0:56:52 | |
Stranded in the middle of the North Atlantic, | 0:56:52 | 0:56:55 | |
this is now the only place on Earth to still practice this tradition. | 0:56:55 | 0:56:59 | |
This is storytelling with a real passion, | 0:57:02 | 0:57:05 | |
which is just rising from the sea and the rock. | 0:57:05 | 0:57:08 | |
With 70,000 verses, dances can go on all night. | 0:57:09 | 0:57:14 | |
So a pit-stop for some fuel is a must! | 0:57:14 | 0:57:17 | |
Time to share my Faroese treasures from the sea. | 0:57:17 | 0:57:20 | |
Does the Faroese food help make a certain kind of character? | 0:57:20 | 0:57:24 | |
Yes, of course, of course. | 0:57:24 | 0:57:27 | |
Because Faroese food is our food and we eat a lot from the sea. | 0:57:27 | 0:57:32 | |
We're also eating from hills. | 0:57:32 | 0:57:35 | |
This food comes from around our islands and in our islands. | 0:57:35 | 0:57:38 | |
Bounty from the sea has shaped these people, | 0:57:40 | 0:57:43 | |
carving them out like their rocky coastline. | 0:57:43 | 0:57:46 | |
The Faroese use everything the seas offer to survive. | 0:57:47 | 0:57:52 | |
In nature's larder nothing is wasted. | 0:57:52 | 0:57:54 | |
I've learned so much from Faroese Islanders - | 0:58:04 | 0:58:08 | |
finding bounty on land and sea, | 0:58:08 | 0:58:12 | |
making a few resources go a very long way. | 0:58:12 | 0:58:16 | |
It might be tradition here on the Faroes | 0:58:16 | 0:58:19 | |
but it's a lesson for the rest of the world. | 0:58:19 | 0:58:22 | |
Our waters are rich with wondrous surprises. | 0:58:26 | 0:58:30 | |
They inspire, sustain and connect communities across the world. | 0:58:30 | 0:58:36 | |
Bounty from the sea defines a way of life that all coastal people share. | 0:58:36 | 0:58:42 |