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When we've such a spectacular coastline, | 0:00:40 | 0:00:44 | |
it seems a shame to leave it behind. | 0:00:44 | 0:00:46 | |
For some, the Channel isn't a way out, it's a way round. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:54 | |
These are outdoor swimmers, a hardy breed, experienced in the water. | 0:00:54 | 0:01:01 | |
I'm Kate Rew, and I'm an outdoor swimmer. | 0:01:01 | 0:01:04 | |
There is nowhere more exhilarating than the sea. | 0:01:04 | 0:01:06 | |
Whatever mood I'm in, whatever kind of day I've had, | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
however many spreadsheets, worries, or just tedious traffic jams, | 0:01:09 | 0:01:13 | |
if you go for a swim, your day is made. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:16 | |
I always make a point of talking to locals before I get in, | 0:01:16 | 0:01:20 | |
and if I'm doing a sea swim | 0:01:20 | 0:01:23 | |
I generally tell the coastguard where I'm going, | 0:01:23 | 0:01:25 | |
because they're unused to the idea that anybody might swim | 0:01:25 | 0:01:28 | |
along a length of coast. They'll try and rescue you | 0:01:28 | 0:01:31 | |
unless you forewarn them. | 0:01:31 | 0:01:33 | |
You just go along a length of coastline | 0:01:33 | 0:01:35 | |
and you get to see everything from a very different perspective. | 0:01:35 | 0:01:39 | |
Swimming at the bottom of the cliffs | 0:01:39 | 0:01:41 | |
is just a wonderful experience because they look so majestic | 0:01:41 | 0:01:45 | |
when you're bobbing along beneath them, 300ft of pure chalk above. | 0:01:45 | 0:01:50 | |
Most outdoor swimmers around here | 0:01:52 | 0:01:54 | |
would be heading off across the Channel, which I find remarkable, | 0:01:54 | 0:01:57 | |
because like most people I share this universal fear of deep water. | 0:01:57 | 0:02:01 | |
I get a feeling as I get further and further from the shore | 0:02:01 | 0:02:04 | |
that something awful might be under the water. | 0:02:04 | 0:02:07 | |
So, for me, I'm going to do two miles along the coastline | 0:02:07 | 0:02:10 | |
and stay quite close to shore. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:12 | |
I love the fact that it makes you fit, that it gets you outdoors, | 0:02:16 | 0:02:20 | |
but I mostly like its psychological effects, | 0:02:20 | 0:02:23 | |
that whatever mood you're in, by the time you get out, | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
you feel you've had a really good day. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:29 | |
25 miles on from Dover, | 0:02:40 | 0:02:42 | |
and the chalk cliffs have temporarily run their course, | 0:02:42 | 0:02:46 | |
although their presence is still felt at Romney. | 0:02:46 | 0:02:50 | |
Ten centuries ago, this was a sandy bay, | 0:02:52 | 0:02:55 | |
but flint pebbles washed out of the nearby chalk formed a huge barrier, | 0:02:55 | 0:03:01 | |
drying out the land behind and creating the Romney Marshes. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:06 | |
Across the sparse terrain, a strange chorus rings out. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:16 | |
CHIRRUPING AND CROAKING | 0:03:16 | 0:03:18 | |
Like so many of us on these islands, | 0:03:22 | 0:03:25 | |
these noisy little frogs can trace their ancestors to foreign shores. | 0:03:25 | 0:03:30 | |
The local story says they were brought to Romney in the 1930s | 0:03:32 | 0:03:36 | |
by a Mrs Percy Smith. | 0:03:36 | 0:03:38 | |
She'd acquired them in France, intending to eat them. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:42 | |
Unfortunately for Mrs Smith, | 0:03:43 | 0:03:46 | |
they weren't the edible variety of frog. | 0:03:46 | 0:03:49 | |
In fact, they weren't even French. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:52 | |
They're actually Hungarian marsh frogs, not very tasty, | 0:03:54 | 0:03:57 | |
but right at home in the wetlands of Romney. | 0:03:57 | 0:04:01 | |
When Mrs Smith thoughtfully released them into her garden pond, | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
they wasted no time escaping, | 0:04:06 | 0:04:08 | |
and they've been making themselves heard ever since. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:12 | |
Despite being Europe's busiest seaway, | 0:04:19 | 0:04:22 | |
the Channel is rich in wildlife, | 0:04:22 | 0:04:24 | |
and people take every opportunity to land a catch... | 0:04:24 | 0:04:27 | |
..although sometimes it can be a frustrating business. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:34 | |
The cliffs make it impossible to launch fishing boats. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:41 | |
Even when there is a gap, nature doesn't make things easy. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:46 | |
In Hastings, the efforts to build a harbour have either been washed away | 0:04:55 | 0:05:01 | |
or run out of money, | 0:05:01 | 0:05:02 | |
so the fishermen were forced to think again. | 0:05:02 | 0:05:06 | |
Miranda Krestovnikoff wants to discover their ingenious solutions. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:11 | |
When you don't have a harbour to launch your boat from, | 0:05:14 | 0:05:17 | |
there's only one place you can go, the beach. | 0:05:17 | 0:05:20 | |
Hastings is home to Europe's largest beach-launched fishing fleet. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:31 | |
They've had to modify their boats, | 0:05:31 | 0:05:33 | |
but for centuries they've also adapted their fishing techniques | 0:05:33 | 0:05:37 | |
to suit the seasons and the different catches they bring. | 0:05:37 | 0:05:40 | |
In winter, it's cuttlefish, | 0:05:43 | 0:05:44 | |
a creature I've had a few encounters with myself off Selsey Bill. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:48 | |
It's very big, couple of feet long. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
They're a popular dish in Italy and Spain, | 0:05:53 | 0:05:56 | |
and for Paul Joy, who reckons his family have been in Hastings | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
since William the Conqueror, it's a relatively new catch. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:03 | |
These are cuttlefish pots, and we've worked with these generally | 0:06:03 | 0:06:08 | |
-for the last 15-16 years. -How does it work, then? | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
Well, you put a female cuttlefish in, | 0:06:11 | 0:06:14 | |
then the males and females go through and they congregate. | 0:06:14 | 0:06:18 | |
Next morning you pick it up, pour the cuttlefish out | 0:06:18 | 0:06:20 | |
and put a fresh female back in, and so on the next day. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
What I find ironic about cuttlefish nets | 0:06:23 | 0:06:26 | |
is that cuttlefish really like to lay their eggs here, | 0:06:26 | 0:06:29 | |
and it seems a shame that those eggs are wasted. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
No, they're not wasted, we get them back in the sea as soon as possible | 0:06:32 | 0:06:35 | |
-for our next generation. -Great stuff. | 0:06:35 | 0:06:37 | |
Equal care and stealth is required for the summer catch, Dover sole. | 0:06:37 | 0:06:44 | |
These flatfish live on the seabed, burying themselves for protection, | 0:06:44 | 0:06:48 | |
and so require a very specific kind of net. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:51 | |
-This is one of your trammel nets then. -Yes, this is a trammel net. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:55 | |
-How does it work? -Effectively, visualise a tennis net | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
sitting on the bottom of the sea and the lines are tied. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:01 | |
It only stands about four foot high at most in the slack water, | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
and when the tide is running, it's very low. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:07 | |
The fish comes swimming along near the bottom. It hits, | 0:07:07 | 0:07:10 | |
goes through the larger outer mesh, hits the inner mesh, | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
then forms a pocket behind the fish, like a system of traps. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:18 | |
Where does this net originate from? | 0:07:18 | 0:07:21 | |
We believe it originated from France, | 0:07:21 | 0:07:23 | |
but it could have come from the Mediterranean | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
where they've used this type of net, but much smaller mesh, | 0:07:25 | 0:07:28 | |
-for many generations. -So it's a very ancient tradition. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:32 | |
Trammel nets are an ancient fishery. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:34 | |
Flatfish are most active when it's dark, | 0:07:35 | 0:07:38 | |
so the trammel nets have to be left out overnight. | 0:07:38 | 0:07:40 | |
It's the crack of dawn, and it's a real struggle | 0:07:44 | 0:07:47 | |
just getting the boats down the beach into the water | 0:07:47 | 0:07:50 | |
so they can go and catch fish. | 0:07:50 | 0:07:51 | |
We're off to check the nets for Dover Sole, and it takes a while. | 0:07:54 | 0:08:00 | |
Each boat is painstakingly launched using ropes, winches and bulldozers. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:05 | |
Most of the craft are less than 10 metres long. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
Any larger and they couldn't get off the beach. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:13 | |
And we're off, it's an absolutely beautiful morning. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:21 | |
We've got about 2.5 miles to sail out to sea to check the nets | 0:08:21 | 0:08:24 | |
and see if all that hard work's really going to pay off. | 0:08:24 | 0:08:27 | |
For Graham and his crew, the first haul is always an anxious moment. | 0:08:35 | 0:08:40 | |
There are no guarantees with this method of fishing, | 0:08:43 | 0:08:47 | |
even with their years of experience. | 0:08:47 | 0:08:50 | |
It looks as if they've hardly caught anything. | 0:08:50 | 0:08:53 | |
In fact, with their trammel nets, | 0:08:53 | 0:08:55 | |
they've managed to target exactly what they were after, flatfish. | 0:08:55 | 0:08:59 | |
This is average for this time of the year, not bad, just average. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:04 | |
I'm amazed at how selective the nets are here, | 0:09:04 | 0:09:08 | |
very little's coming up that's not a flatfish. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:10 | |
No, these are a selective way of fishing. | 0:09:10 | 0:09:12 | |
What's the smallest size you're allowed to take? | 0:09:12 | 0:09:15 | |
Cos there's a measurement, isn't there? | 0:09:15 | 0:09:17 | |
-9.5 inches. -9.5 inches. -Just under three years old. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:20 | |
-So you're not catching fish so young they haven't bred yet? -Yes. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:24 | |
Understanding the behaviour of the fish and their lifecycle, | 0:09:24 | 0:09:27 | |
-how important is that when you're fishing? -Very important. | 0:09:27 | 0:09:30 | |
We've had scientists onboard doing surveys with us, and they said | 0:09:30 | 0:09:35 | |
it is the most eco-friendly way of fishing that can be devised. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:39 | |
Working with the rhythms of nature in small boats with specialist nets | 0:09:39 | 0:09:44 | |
doesn't bring in a huge catch, but it has brought other benefits. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:49 | |
Fish stocks here have remained healthy, in some cases increasing, | 0:09:53 | 0:09:59 | |
which means the ancient beach fleet of Hastings | 0:09:59 | 0:10:01 | |
could be here for the long haul. | 0:10:01 | 0:10:04 | |
A stone's throw from the shingle beach | 0:10:10 | 0:10:13 | |
is a miniature Battle of Hastings. | 0:10:13 | 0:10:16 | |
There are golf courses all along this coast. | 0:10:17 | 0:10:20 | |
Even the smallest ones attract players from foreign shores. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:25 | |
It may seem crazy to us, but it's a serious business for them. | 0:10:25 | 0:10:30 | |
My name is Jouni Valkjarvi, | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
I come from Finland. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:37 | |
I came over here to Britain to play miniature golf. | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
I'm here in Hastings to prepare for the British Open. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:45 | |
Now that I've warmed up at the crazy golf course, | 0:10:51 | 0:10:55 | |
I'm going to try out this adventure golf course. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:58 | |
Adventure golf is more about the surroundings than the course itself, | 0:10:59 | 0:11:04 | |
with waterfalls and stuff like this. | 0:11:04 | 0:11:06 | |
When I approach a new hole I haven't played before, | 0:11:06 | 0:11:11 | |
I take many practice shots, I make a note of where I placed the ball, | 0:11:11 | 0:11:16 | |
where I tried to aim to find the best line. | 0:11:16 | 0:11:20 | |
Oh, dear! | 0:11:20 | 0:11:22 | |
We do have a lot of different balls we are allowed to use. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:26 | |
Those balls have different properties | 0:11:26 | 0:11:29 | |
in jump, weight and hardness. | 0:11:29 | 0:11:32 | |
If I think I need to play a rebound shot, or go straight to the hole, | 0:11:32 | 0:11:37 | |
I choose the right ball for that particular hole. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
I've been coming to England for this tournament...this is my fourth time. | 0:11:42 | 0:11:46 | |
I hope to win. It won't be easy, | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
but I just hope I'm happy with my own game. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:54 | |
NEIL OLIVER: And if you're wondering, Jouni finished the British Open | 0:11:58 | 0:12:03 | |
in a creditable third place, beaten by two Swedish players. | 0:12:03 | 0:12:07 | |
Selsey Bill. | 0:12:29 | 0:12:31 | |
Its shallows and riptides have made it treacherous for shipping for centuries. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:37 | |
As a result, much of the history of this headland lies at the bottom of the sea. | 0:12:37 | 0:12:43 | |
But these divers from Southsea Sub-Aqua Club aren't hunting for shipwrecks, | 0:12:46 | 0:12:50 | |
they're in search of shells, | 0:12:53 | 0:12:55 | |
World War II shells. | 0:12:55 | 0:12:58 | |
And the tanks that never got to fire them. | 0:13:00 | 0:13:04 | |
There are two tanks and two bulldozers from D-Day, | 0:13:04 | 0:13:10 | |
they didn't actually make it across to the Normandy Beaches, and | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
we're trying to find out the types of tanks they are, | 0:13:13 | 0:13:17 | |
and also how they ended up lying on the seabed. | 0:13:17 | 0:13:20 | |
There are around 20 officially protected wreck sites along this stretch of coast. | 0:13:22 | 0:13:27 | |
Much of the initial measuring and recording is done by amateur divers. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:31 | |
Most recreational divers, they go down to dive | 0:13:33 | 0:13:35 | |
to just have a pleasant time, | 0:13:35 | 0:13:37 | |
to enjoy themselves, and hopefully come back safe and sound. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:40 | |
These divers have actually challenged themselves | 0:13:40 | 0:13:42 | |
to do a job of work, and they're doing it really well. | 0:13:42 | 0:13:46 | |
And finally they find those shells. | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
Intended for D-Day, they've been at the bottom of the sea for more than 60 years. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:58 | |
Just coming up should be the metal round plates which says that they're Centaurs. | 0:13:58 | 0:14:04 | |
There it is, there you go, definitely. | 0:14:04 | 0:14:07 | |
So there's your identification. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:09 | |
These Centaur tanks are pinpointed, recorded, and put on the map of the British coastline, | 0:14:09 | 0:14:16 | |
to become part of our maritime history. | 0:14:16 | 0:14:19 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:14:24 | 0:14:27 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:14:27 | 0:14:30 |