Invaders of the Isles Coast


Invaders of the Isles

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This is Coast.

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The wild islands of the British Isles.

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Splinters of land, oceans of water.

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At times the sea protects, at others, it attacks!

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Rocky islets rise like sparkling jewels, ripe for the taking,

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a tempting target for invaders.

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From hostile incursions to the welcome influx of wildlife.

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We'll reveal surprising stories of invasions around our shores.

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My base of operations is on the Channel Islands,

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where remarkably, some German strongholds are still unexplored.

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Now I'm gearing up for an invasion of my own.

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I'm breaking into a sealed Nazi bunker.

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Nobody's seen this for more than 60 years.

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And the team are gearing up for invasions too.

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Out on the Isle of Man,

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Ruth is bracing herself for a mighty seaborne assault.

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The leather clad clans are gathering.

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The TT is in town.

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On a tiny Scottish isle,

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Andy is hunting for animal invaders, little furry ones!

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The amazing thing is this entire colony

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are hundreds of individuals from one pregnant female.

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And Tessa is flying back to the First World War

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as she's blown away by aerial invaders.

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Beware the Zeppelins!

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Terrifying dogfights to the death, pitting biplanes against airships.

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These stories tell of the Invaders of the Isles.

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My island destination

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sits in the firing line between England and France.

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I'm heading to Guernsey.

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Guernsey's the ideal place to recall both the risks

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and the rewards of invasion.

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Its islanders made good money from historic battles with France.

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I'll be exploring how swashbuckling Guernsey sailors

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ran rings around Napoleon's navy.

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But in the Second World War

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the people felt the full force of Hitler's invading army.

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Now the heavens explode each year to mark the end of German occupation.

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Guernsey is celebrating its liberty.

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A night that burns bright with the memories of invasion.

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In June 1940, it wasn't friendly fire that lit up the skies.

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The dark hand of the Third Reich was about to grasp the Isle of Guernsey.

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With invasion inevitable, islanders had a stark choice, stay or go.

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I've got here a copy of the Guernsey newspaper, The Evening Press,

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dated Wednesday June 19th, 1940. It reads, "Evacuation of Children.

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"Parents must report this evening."

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Well, these parents were being given just a few hours to decide

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whether to stay or to leave the island.

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The following morning, that quayside over there was packed with people

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queuing up to board ships back to England.

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CHILD CRIES

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Seven-year-old Paulette Tapp's mother was dead

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and her father was away fighting,

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so her grandmother decided Paulette should be evacuated.

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Is this you in this photograph?

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This is my grandmother. And that was me when I was three years old.

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-Did she go with you?

-No, no.

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I was on my own. Completely on my own, there was nobody.

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While Paulette left for an uncertain future in England,

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on Guernsey, a little boy remained on the quayside.

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-Very good to meet you.

-How do you do?

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'Stanley Bichard was the middle one of three boys,

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'who with their mum and dad were about to experience invasion.'

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Just days after the evacuations Guernsey's harbour was bombed,

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many were killed.

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Two days later the island was occupied.

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'The German invaders took their pick of the houses

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'including the one next door to Stanley's family.'

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-Strange neighbours.

-Yeah. And the week after,

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they came and they knocked at the back door at my mum's

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and said, "We'd like you to do some washing for the Germans."

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So Mum said, "No, I don't do a wash for the German soldiers."

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They said, "You will wash for the soldiers

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"or you will vacate your premises by the end of the week."

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And, of course, there's five of us in the family,

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you know, where are we going?

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Many island children had gone to seek safety on the mainland.

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Seven-year-old Paulette, travelling alone, was evacuated to Cheshire,

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to be looked after by nuns.

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This homesick little girl

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was about to acquire a very special guardian angel.

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Remember, in this country

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the gift must be based on your ability to give.

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First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt

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was coaxing American women to do their bit for the war effort.

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Mrs Roosevelt sought a young pen pal,

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she received a letter from a lonely girl in Cheshire.

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"Dear Mrs Roosevelt, first of all,

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"I hope you are well and in good health.

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"Please give my best regards to President Roosevelt.

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"Thank you very much for the pretty green dress. It fits me just fine

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"and I love the blouse to go with it.

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"Your loving foster child, Paulette."

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Meanwhile, guardian angels were in short supply on Guernsey.

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As the occupation wore on, rations were meagre.

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Four ounces of meat a week for the family of five.

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-That's nothing!

-Eggs were very hard to come by,

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because everybody killed the chickens to have food for eating.

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"We had a lovely supper, lemonade, cakes and biscuits.

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"Then for tea we all had a bar of chocolate."

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-Remember being hungry?

-Oh, yeah. Yeah.

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Yes, a few times.

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-It must have been very difficult for your mother knowing that.

-Yeah.

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Mum and Dad suffered a lot at different times.

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-Yeah. How do you feed a family of five when you've got nothing?

-Yeah.

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Paulette had a full stomach but an empty heart.

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Her gran on occupied Guernsey couldn't get letters out.

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My only person that I really loved was my grandmother,

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I missed her cuddles and hugs, you know, because we didn't get many.

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They were good, the nuns, but we didn't have the love.

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Paulette's safe surroundings were tinged with sadness.

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For young Stanley, the lush landscape of Guernsey may have been

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a war zone, but it was still his playground.

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A favourite prank was pelting passing cars with lumps of turf.

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It was just along there somewhere,

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lovely turf about as big as my hand there.

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So when a car came, if the window was open,

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I didn't know it was a German,

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I wasn't being brave or anything like that,

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but I spiffed the turf over the edge,

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it went straight through the window

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and hit the officer straight in the face.

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And, of course, there was a squeak of the tyres and we hid.

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We were petrified then.

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The headmaster of the school said they were going to take hostages,

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because they thought it was an act of sabotage,

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it wasn't sabotage, it was a game, like, you know?

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And we got away with it by writing a letter of apology

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to the Commandant. They let us get away with it.

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German rule ground on for nearly five years.

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By the end the invaders were as much prisoners as the islanders -

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both were starving.

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After D-Day in Normandy there was nothing coming in at all

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and also the Germans were suffering,

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a lot of cats went missing during the war.

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-They ate them?

-Oh, yeah. And dogs. They had my dog.

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-They ate your dog?

-Oh, yeah.

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But you couldn't buy anything cos nothing was coming in.

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The desperate days ended on the 8th of May, 1945.

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With the war over, Paulette came home,

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but she's never met Stanley

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to share their different experiences of invasion.

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Is it better to leave home and be fed

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or to stay with your family and go hungry?

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I couldn't let my children go.

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I'd want them with me. I would try and do everything I could.

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If somebody had been able to cuddle me, you know.

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-And you miss that, don't you, when you're children?

-Oh, yeah.

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So in that way, I suffered more emotionally

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-and you suffered more with your food.

-Oh, without a doubt.

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Without a doubt.

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BOTH CHUCKLE

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Guernsey still counts the human cost of occupation.

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But elsewhere there are invasions we're happy to see.

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Migrating birds re-colonise some remote outposts each year.

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Perfect perches to breed and feed.

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Seabirds come and go as they please. But journey to Scotland

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and you'll discover an odd group of animal invaders

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trapped on the outcrop of Coreisa.

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Andy Torbet is in search of creatures

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living like Robinson Crusoe, castaways on a forgotten isle.

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The tiny island of Coreisa is a pinprick of rock out there.

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It's only five miles from the shore,

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but for most, it might as well be Mars.

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No scheduled boats go there,

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so you have to find a local willing to take you.

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I'm seeking four-legged invaders

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discovered on a small isle near here in 1964 by an inquisitive explorer.

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This is Gordon Corbett,

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a curator of mammals at the Natural History Museum in London.

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He'd heard whispers of a mysterious creature living on an island

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in these waters, a colony that had no place being there.

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Locals thought they might be rats, but Gordon had his own suspicions.

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He travelled out to the island

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to catch one and take a specimen back to London.

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This is the animal he caught, he'd found a freshwater vole.

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How had this shy river creature crossed miles of seawater,

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how had it survived marooned on the island?

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It was astonishing to discover water voles

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on tiny isles off Western Scotland.

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Normally they thrive in freshwater, avoiding the perils of the open seas.

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So how did water voles get to this rocky outcrop, Coreisa?

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Did a pregnant female find herself on a passing boat?

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Or where they washed out on sea currents?

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However it happened, once ashore, these invaders were quite alone.

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People pass by the island,

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but it's very rarely that I ever see anybody go on the island

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or even looking in on it. No, it's pretty well untouched, aye.

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The island of Coreisa is about the size of three football pitches.

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There's little shelter and no running water.

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But for the next two days... this is home.

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'And I've got company.

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'Scientists from Aberdeen University are studying how over generations

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'the voles have adapted to this alien environment.

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'Helping me get settled is biologist Matt Oliver.'

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Well, interestingly the water voles here have a very different

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behaviour and eco type from water voles in the Scottish mainland.

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We've got very little fresh water on this island at all,

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and instead the water voles have a more mole-like existence,

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they live in burrows underneath the ground eating roots and shoots,

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and they don't have many competitors,

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so they've got more or less a free reign of the place.

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And I can see just from sitting here lots of vole signs,

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so you're not far away from a vole right now.

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These shy creatures aren't too keen to meet us,

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so team leader Stuart Piertney

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is laying a trap baited with tatties and carrots.

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-Put a bit of extra bedding material in.

-OK.

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The door closes behind him, simple as that.

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And it doesn't do the vole any harm to be trapped?

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Absolutely not. These guys think of these

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as little mini hotel rooms, they really like the idea

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they can get a good feed. We know that

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because from one day to the next, we'll be catching the same voles.

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With the traps set, we work on our own survival strategy.

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Good morning and good news.

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The water voles have checked into the traps overnight,

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so now it's rise and shine for them too.

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-Right. So let's process this little guy and see what we've got.

-OK.

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-So the first job is to get him out of the trap.

-Yep.

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-And there he is.

-They're much bigger than I thought they'd be.

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Yes. They've got hardy tails,

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so you can keep hold of them with the tail

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and he's as happy as Larry in the hand there.

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Just grab him by the tail first,

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make sure he doesn't give you a bit of a nip. There we go.

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The amazing thing is this entire colony is from one pregnant female.

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So, hundreds of individuals from just one.

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In essence these guys are all related,

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it's all brothers and uncles and aunties.

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Theory would predict that with a small isolated population like this

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they should have lost their genetic variation,

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which should make them not very fit,

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they should be prone to the effects of parasites,

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but you can see that's not the case at all,

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these guys are looking really healthy,

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so they seem to be bucking the trend one way or another.

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The researchers expected inbreeding to produce sickly animals

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prone to infection, but in fact they are thriving.

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The team are unravelling the genetic puzzle

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of how a healthy colony may have flourished from just one female.

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The findings could help preserve endangered species

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that have dwindled to a few individuals.

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As for the descendants of the original water vole invader,

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they may have become inmates on this island,

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but I can think of worse places to be marooned.

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In our fights for survival,

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we've created some remarkable artificial islands.

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Forts that helped keep foreign aggressors at bay.

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But some in the British Isles have suffered conquest in living memory.

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I'm on Guernsey.

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In the Second World War on the Channel Islands,

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attackers soon became defenders.

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The invaders of these isles left a grim legacy.

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German bunkers that outlasted the Third Reich.

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Some 1,000 Nazi fortifications were embedded in the rock of Guernsey,

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potent symbols of the propaganda value to be gained

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by occupying British Crown Territory.

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Hitler wouldn't give up the Channel Islands without a fight.

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Now I'm gearing up for an invasion of my own.

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Many of these tombs of tyranny were sealed at the end of the last war,

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but one of the bunkers is about to be re-opened

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for the first time in over 60 years.

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I'm going to be a Nazi tomb raider.

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On a beach-side golf course,

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they're excavating the entrance to the forgotten underground bunker.

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To see what could lie in store, I'm visiting another site.

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This gun emplacement was only re-opened in 2010.

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My guide is bunker specialist Paul Bourgaize.

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-Chilly and dark, isn't it?

-Just watch these steps here.

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We're in a small square... room, what have we got over here?

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This is actually a fortress telephone.

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So this is a hand-cranked telephone?

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-Yep.

-So what does this say?

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"Achtung Feind host nit!" was a warning you'd find above all phones,

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and it basically says, "Warning, the enemy is listening,"

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so it was just, "Watch what you're saying."

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-Very smooth, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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It's approximately a tonne of steel that's moving there.

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-Top quality German engineering.

-Yeah.

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This portal cut into the concrete

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was the firing position for an anti-tank gun.

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Its crew were charged with repelling a possible beach invasion.

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Historians on Guernsey are re-discovering

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the secrets of fortifications across the island.

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The digger's scoop has just revealed the top of a doorway.

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Nobody's seen this for more than 60 years.

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Buried for decades.

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Now we're the first to enter a forgotten lair of Hitler's army.

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This was once a staircase

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that a six-foot man could walk down,

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now... it's like a cave entrance.

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Incredible! Look at this on the roof, miniature stalactites of rust.

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Very nasty gunk all over the floor,

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this seems to be oil more than water.

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Cos this is a personnel bunker, these are the hooks for the beds

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or the bunks, still original, all fixed to the wall.

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-So these hooks...?

-That's where the bunks would have been.

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-Hooked on there?

-There would have been a chain

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hanging from the ceiling attached to those hooks.

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-Oh, here?

-Yeah.

-So these are like ship's bunks. Did they fold away?

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They do fold away, yes.

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'Up to ten men slept in this windowless tomb -

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'their job, to man the gun emplacements.'

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This is smaller, what was this space for?

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Yeah, this is a ventilation escape shaft as well.

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Where did you escape? There's no way out.

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This is the escape shaft here.

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It would have been quite tricky to get out of here,

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you've got a steel door, you'd have had two rows of steel girders

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across there in those recesses that had to be pulled out,

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you've then got a brick wall that needs to be demolished,

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and then the whole escape shaft which goes right up to the surface

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was filled with sand. All that had to come in

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before anybody could go out.

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Why did they make it so difficult to get out?

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Well, they don't want people coming in either, so...

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So this was a last resort if you were completely trapped down here?

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A gas attack or anything like that.

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-You'd dig your way out?

-Absolutely.

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This up here, by the looks of it,

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was some sort of newspaper or article but it's all in German.

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-The second word is "Fuhrer".

-That's very exciting, that.

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'It translates as, "Sworn to the Fuhrer".'

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-Perhaps there was a picture.

-Of Hitler?

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-Definitely a possibility.

-Yeah.

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You might think the soldiers who once sheltered in these dank vaults

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would want to purge the island from their memories.

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But some, like Fritz Kunz, who was stationed in a bunker,

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still return to Guernsey.

0:22:460:22:49

In 1943, aged just 17, Fritz found himself in charge of a gunnery crew.

0:22:490:22:55

All the other soldiers came to Russia,

0:22:570:23:02

and I was the only who knows the gun

0:23:020:23:05

and so became high commander of the gun.

0:23:050:23:08

-But you were lucky not to go to Russia.

-Of course.

0:23:080:23:11

-Yeah. The Eastern Front was a bad place to be.

-Yes.

0:23:110:23:14

We came here and we was thinking we came in the paradise.

0:23:140:23:20

-Really?

-Yes.

-You thought it was paradise?

-Yes.

0:23:200:23:23

What did you think when you saw the bunker being opened over there,

0:23:230:23:28

how did you find that?

0:23:280:23:30

Oh, it was... awful.

0:23:300:23:33

It was a horrible thing.

0:23:330:23:37

-Do you remember when Guernsey was liberated?

-Yes.

0:23:370:23:42

-What happened?

-It was... going out.

0:23:420:23:48

-A huge relief?

-Oh, now it is peace.

0:23:480:23:52

-Finished?

-Finished.

0:23:520:23:55

We're on a journey to explore invasions of our isles.

0:24:100:24:15

It's a story they know all too well on the Isle of Man.

0:24:150:24:20

This island has been occupied by the Norse...

0:24:320:24:35

the Scots...

0:24:350:24:38

and the English.

0:24:380:24:40

Today, though, it's fiercely independent.

0:24:440:24:48

Surprising then, that the Manx people open their arms to one race

0:24:480:24:52

that lays siege to their isle every year.

0:24:520:24:56

Ruth Goodman is bracing herself for an epic invasion.

0:24:580:25:02

Out there beyond the sea, the leather-clad clans are gathering.

0:25:040:25:08

An army is assembling from around Britain and far beyond.

0:25:110:25:16

They mount their two-wheeled chariots bound for the Isle of Man.

0:25:160:25:20

The locals, ready to do battle... for business.

0:25:220:25:25

Burgers, buns, beer - the TT is in town.

0:25:250:25:29

For two weeks in early summer, the sound of high-speed combustion

0:25:310:25:36

and the smell of leather cover the island...whatever the weather.

0:25:360:25:42

Day and night, wave after wave of boats

0:25:420:25:44

disgorge disciples of the most dangerous bike-fest on Earth.

0:25:440:25:49

TT stands for Tourist Trophy, and these days it attracts

0:25:490:25:54

over 30,000 tourists, who bring around 10,000 motorbikes.

0:25:540:25:59

So what's in it for the bikers, and how do the locals feel about

0:26:000:26:04

this friendly invasion of their small isle?

0:26:040:26:07

The hotels can't accommodate the sudden influx of bodies.

0:26:150:26:18

Bikers are berthed in private houses all over the island.

0:26:200:26:23

Everybody mucks in to keep the TT on track.

0:26:250:26:27

And the restaurants stock up for a briefly lived bonanza.

0:26:310:26:36

He's huge...!

0:26:360:26:37

That's the female.

0:26:370:26:39

It's a female. How can you tell?

0:26:390:26:42

And that's the male. That bit there carries the eggs.

0:26:420:26:46

Beautiful colour.

0:26:460:26:48

This is probably our busiest time.

0:26:480:26:51

It's a big part of the year. Eat and drink, isn't it?

0:26:510:26:53

-Yeah, party time.

-Party time.

0:26:530:26:55

As long as they eat it, we'll catch it.

0:26:550:26:57

Look at that, it's like one enormous giant prawn. Delicious.

0:27:010:27:04

Every bite, lick and chip swells the bank balance of the Isle of Man.

0:27:060:27:12

This is an invasion any island would welcome.

0:27:120:27:17

So how did this small, self-contained community

0:27:170:27:20

come to host the world's ultimate motorbike road race?

0:27:200:27:23

'I'm heading for a private viewing of some rare film that takes us

0:27:260:27:29

'right back to the beginning.

0:27:290:27:32

'This little picture palace is about as old as the TT -

0:27:320:27:35

'a century and counting.

0:27:350:27:38

'I'm meeting social historian and TT expert Matthew Richardson.'

0:27:380:27:42

-Hi.

-Hello.

-What's this then?

0:27:420:27:45

Well, this is some early footage of one of the first TT races

0:27:450:27:47

on the Isle of Man.

0:27:470:27:48

Oh, blinking 'eck!

0:27:480:27:50

He just picked himself up and got back on the bike.

0:27:500:27:52

That's a pretty low speed crash.

0:27:520:27:54

It's... It's all relative.

0:27:540:27:56

The 1911 Junior TT, the winner won at just over 40 mph.

0:27:560:28:00

The current lap record is just over 130 mph.

0:28:000:28:03

They still look like pushbikes with motors on, don't they?

0:28:030:28:06

Well, they were. Technology was very primitive.

0:28:060:28:10

The TT races began after speed regulations were imposed on

0:28:100:28:14

British roads in 1903, a 20mph limit was set on the mainland.

0:28:140:28:19

The self-governing Isle of Man had no such restrictions -

0:28:190:28:23

the only limits were the power of the bikes,

0:28:230:28:27

and the skill of the riders.

0:28:270:28:29

In the early days it wasn't all about speed, it was very much

0:28:290:28:32

a trial of reliability, one of the early riders comments that

0:28:320:28:35

although he won the race, he had to stop to mend a puncture.

0:28:350:28:39

Pushing the bikes to breaking point year after year

0:28:390:28:42

created the TT's global reputation for thrills and spills.

0:28:420:28:47

Go anywhere in the world,

0:28:470:28:49

people might not be sure where the Isle of Man is,

0:28:490:28:51

but there's a fair chance they'll have heard of the TT races.

0:28:510:28:54

'They say to understand someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes.'

0:28:590:29:04

I'd never normally wear trousers at the beach.

0:29:040:29:07

'Or ride a mile in their leathers.'

0:29:070:29:10

But then, tights and bikes don't really mix.

0:29:100:29:13

I'm joining the tribe that has taken over the island,

0:29:160:29:19

for a ride with one of the race's royals.

0:29:190:29:22

Sidecar passenger Rose Hanks was the queen of the TT in the '60s.

0:29:250:29:31

And Roy was her prince.

0:29:310:29:34

Roy Hanks has been TT racing since 1966 - a sidecar legend.

0:29:340:29:40

Now Rose has agreed to turn her husband over to me,

0:29:400:29:45

and she is a hard act to follow!

0:29:450:29:47

In 1968, Rose became the first woman ever to get on the podium.

0:29:470:29:52

There she is, proud moment, yeah.

0:29:520:29:53

Absolutely. Rose was the first.

0:29:530:29:56

I remember when I first met her, she impressed me then,

0:29:560:29:59

but when she was dressed in black leather

0:29:590:30:02

she was even better looking and...

0:30:020:30:04

Rose's skill in the sidecar made her a star in the '60s.

0:30:040:30:09

Today, she's happiest steering the family bike business

0:30:090:30:12

out of the limelight.

0:30:120:30:14

Cos there wasn't so many girls around doing it

0:30:140:30:16

you got more attention, so...

0:30:160:30:19

They wanted me to wear make-up.

0:30:190:30:20

I says "No, I don't wear make-up racing."

0:30:200:30:24

They were good days, they were, the best.

0:30:240:30:27

-That was the year she was presented to...

-Prince Philip.

-Prince Philip.

0:30:270:30:31

See the mop of hair, there. Not on Prince Philip, on Rose!

0:30:310:30:34

For riders like Rose, the glamour of the TT

0:30:360:30:39

goes hand-in-glove with the danger.

0:30:390:30:41

The infamous mountain course is considered the world's most lethal.

0:30:480:30:53

Over 130 riders have been killed on the road.

0:30:530:30:57

Sometimes I get a bit worried and concerned

0:31:000:31:03

how dangerous it could be and has been.

0:31:030:31:05

But once I'm on my bike racing...

0:31:070:31:11

..I'm 21 again.

0:31:120:31:14

Who wouldn't want to be 21 again?

0:31:160:31:19

I'm along for the ride, Roy's at the handlebars.

0:31:190:31:22

The tarmac of the TT beckons.

0:31:220:31:25

Whoa...!

0:31:260:31:28

From my sidecar seat, the future rolls out ahead.

0:31:350:31:39

But echoes of the past are never far behind.

0:31:390:31:42

Wow, what a view!

0:31:450:31:47

Now I can see why bikers enjoy overtaking the island each year.

0:31:500:31:54

-Ah, marvellous!

-SHE LAUGHS

0:31:560:31:59

We're exploring invaders of the isles.

0:32:150:32:18

Even in peacetime small islands face a threat from bigger neighbours.

0:32:230:32:28

The invasion of new ideas can destroy traditional lifestyles.

0:32:310:32:35

Historically, better prospects overseas

0:32:370:32:40

have stripped Scottish islands of their brightest and best.

0:32:400:32:44

The pain of separation is still raw to the lost community of Stroma.

0:32:490:32:54

People clung on here until 1962.

0:32:590:33:02

John Manson and his family were the last to leave Stroma.

0:33:080:33:12

Now John's heading back to the deserted isle.

0:33:120:33:17

See the ruin in the middle,

0:33:180:33:20

that one on the right hand side is my grandfather's house.

0:33:200:33:23

His past life is lost in the sea mist.

0:33:240:33:27

The weather today makes the island more dreich-looking.

0:33:280:33:32

"Dreich" meaning dilapidated and not good-looking.

0:33:330:33:37

Helen Adams lives on the mainland now, but she was born on Stroma.

0:33:390:33:44

She hasn't been back since the mid-'60s, for good reason.

0:33:440:33:48

Stroma is an idyllic island,

0:33:490:33:51

and for anyone who visits it or lives in its vicinity

0:33:510:33:56

I would say it's where the earth meets the sky.

0:33:560:34:00

It's on the edge of the world.

0:34:000:34:01

I feel very confident in thought

0:34:020:34:04

that I will never return to Stroma

0:34:040:34:07

because it was a wonderful island for me,

0:34:070:34:10

and I have this romantic bubble contained within my head,

0:34:100:34:14

and that bubble I don't ever wish to burst.

0:34:140:34:17

It feels a wee bit funny to walk on the island again

0:34:240:34:27

but it's lovely to be here.

0:34:270:34:29

Everything seems a wee bit smaller than it used to do.

0:34:290:34:34

The pier here...

0:34:350:34:37

You always think it's wider when you're younger.

0:34:370:34:40

I had a wonderful life on Stroma. Never, ever lonely - never, never.

0:34:410:34:45

A home of plenty. Mum baked and cooked and made.

0:34:460:34:49

Tables creaking with goodies.

0:34:510:34:53

This is our family home...

0:35:040:35:06

er, that we left in 1962.

0:35:060:35:11

It was the last house that anybody lived in here on the island.

0:35:110:35:15

That's my bedroom there, it wasn't like that in 1962.

0:35:150:35:20

That's... That's the table we used to eat off.

0:35:240:35:28

My mother and father slept in the box bed here,

0:35:280:35:31

and my bedroom was here.

0:35:310:35:35

Not a very good bedroom now.

0:35:380:35:42

You could look out the window, see the sea views, ships passing.

0:35:420:35:48

It's sad when you come and look where you lived. Aye, sad.

0:35:500:35:54

A lot of the islanders have died off.

0:35:560:35:58

They got less on the island when we were living here

0:35:590:36:03

and now they're getting less on the mainland through them dying away and...

0:36:030:36:09

that, you know.

0:36:090:36:10

It's sad... It's sad to speak about it, sometimes.

0:36:120:36:14

But you have to speak about it. You have to speak about it.

0:36:140:36:17

But it's sad to speak about it.

0:36:170:36:19

School was lovely.

0:36:290:36:31

Girls at this school learned to cook and the boys learned woodwork.

0:36:310:36:36

It's still in remarkably good nick, the building itself.

0:36:380:36:41

There would be about, erm, what, 20 pupils.

0:36:440:36:47

And we had a really good teacher.

0:36:470:36:49

She was a Miss Manson and she taught us a little poem -

0:36:490:36:53

"Good, better, best

0:36:530:36:56

"Never let it rest

0:36:560:36:58

"Until your good is better And your better's best."

0:36:580:37:03

And that was a motto which she wanted us to carry

0:37:030:37:06

for the rest of our lives.

0:37:060:37:09

I would leave the island in 1951 to go to the high school.

0:37:100:37:14

And I can still see that wistful look upon my mother's face

0:37:140:37:18

as she packed the case for her only child

0:37:180:37:21

to go to the ends of the earth.

0:37:210:37:25

This was another of our hobbies - watching ships passing.

0:37:290:37:32

The picture always changes.

0:37:320:37:34

Another ship...another boat, or whatever was coming.

0:37:340:37:38

But it was a great hobby for all the islanders -

0:37:380:37:40

telescope, and watching the ships passing.

0:37:400:37:43

People have this idea that they used to say -

0:37:430:37:48

particularly when I was at the high school -

0:37:480:37:50

oh, you know, you're cut off. You're cut off by the sea.

0:37:500:37:53

An islander is never cut off

0:37:550:37:57

because it's the very opposite the islander feels.

0:37:570:38:00

It's the sea which connects us with the mainland.

0:38:000:38:05

Islanders left, seals multiplied, birds multiplied -

0:38:050:38:11

wildlife use it as their home now.

0:38:110:38:14

Parents realised - as parents do - they want the best for their families.

0:38:180:38:22

And I think that was the reason why the people drifted

0:38:220:38:25

to the mainland and elsewhere.

0:38:250:38:27

When I think of Stroma...

0:38:290:38:31

it makes me feel young again, and it certainly restores my soul.

0:38:310:38:35

Fragile isles face many perils.

0:38:500:38:53

But some, like Guernsey, rise to the challenge.

0:38:560:39:00

For centuries, the islanders succeeded in turning the threat of war

0:39:030:39:08

into a money-making venture.

0:39:080:39:10

Towers like this that pepper the shore are some 200 years old -

0:39:130:39:18

defences against possible invasion by the French

0:39:180:39:22

running rampant under Napoleon.

0:39:220:39:24

The islanders learned that during times of war

0:39:260:39:29

different rules apply - rules that can be bent to your advantage.

0:39:290:39:35

As the threat of invasion rose, riches rolled in with the waves.

0:39:380:39:43

Guernsey became a "treasure island"

0:39:440:39:47

thanks to the ill-gotten gains of the infamous Guernsey privateers.

0:39:470:39:52

CANNON FIRE

0:39:520:39:55

Described as the Despair of France,

0:39:550:39:58

these private warships were fast and heavily armed with determined crews.

0:39:580:40:03

Guernsey was the ideal base for privateers to strike

0:40:060:40:09

at rich cargo vessels sailing the English Channel.

0:40:090:40:13

But how could these Guernsey bandits get away with plundering booty

0:40:140:40:19

from the big boys of Europe?

0:40:190:40:21

I'm searching for evidence of their exploits.

0:40:240:40:27

Some locals still benefit from those long lost wars.

0:40:280:40:32

'Peter de Sausmarez is a descendant of a famous Guernsey privateer.

0:40:340:40:38

'To the family, he's Grand Matthieu - Great Matthew.'

0:40:400:40:44

But this is the Grand Matthieu.

0:40:440:40:46

Centre-stage in your portrait gallery here?

0:40:460:40:49

Well, very important. Yes. We're all descended from him.

0:40:490:40:52

And, of course, he was the one who sowed the seeds

0:40:520:40:54

of the family recovery and fortune again.

0:40:540:40:57

And what evidence do you have that he was involved in privateering?

0:40:570:41:01

Well, I've got a few letters he wrote, and these are examples

0:41:010:41:05

of letter books. But these we found are of...1712.

0:41:050:41:10

So very early on.

0:41:100:41:11

-So Matthew is in at the beginning.

-Right at the beginning. Absolutely.

0:41:110:41:15

And here is a letter here saying, erm,

0:41:150:41:16

"I'm writing on behalf of Thomas de Marchant

0:41:160:41:20

"to offer him a privateer ship of eight guns,

0:41:200:41:23

"and to recruit some sailors."

0:41:230:41:24

You had to have weapons of inducement.

0:41:240:41:28

And we've got some rather fine examples here.

0:41:280:41:30

This is what the seamen would be using.

0:41:300:41:33

This is interesting because this is French. Erm...

0:41:330:41:37

You can see it's very basic and very simple,

0:41:370:41:39

but one thing that's absolutely tip-top is the blade.

0:41:390:41:42

-Look at that.

-So all the effort was put into this blade.

-Indeed, yes.

0:41:420:41:46

If you can imagine people coming aboard, and waving these. You know.

0:41:460:41:49

-Is that a stick...?

-Or slash, I think. Yeah.

0:41:490:41:53

Back in the scabbard now, do you think?

0:41:530:41:55

Perhaps it'd be safer there, wouldn't it? Yeah.

0:41:550:41:59

Very good. Erm, I think you'd make quite a good privateer.

0:41:590:42:02

Do you think? It would be quite fun, wouldn't it?

0:42:020:42:06

Strong-arm tactics soon built up fortunes.

0:42:090:42:13

The gains may have been ill-gotten, but these weren't pirates.

0:42:130:42:17

The privateers had powerful friends.

0:42:170:42:20

The British, worried about French invasion,

0:42:220:42:25

welcomed attacks on the foreign ships.

0:42:250:42:28

So much so, the privateers got a contract from the King.

0:42:280:42:33

This is a Letter of Marque -

0:42:330:42:35

basically, a pirate's licence to operate legally.

0:42:350:42:39

It's dated "the year of our Lord 1804".

0:42:390:42:45

At the top up here is a wonderful portrait of King George III,

0:42:450:42:52

and down on the bottom is the King's royal seal.

0:42:520:42:55

Now, this letter allows the bearer

0:42:550:42:59

to "lawfully apprehend, seize and take all ships, vessels and goods

0:42:590:43:06

"belonging to the French Republic."

0:43:060:43:09

This is a royal permit to plunder.

0:43:090:43:12

The Crown encouraged Guernsey boatmen to be a thorn in the side of the French,

0:43:180:43:23

and the privateers had home advantage against passing ships.

0:43:230:43:28

Skipper Roger Perrot has local knowledge of these treacherous seas.

0:43:280:43:33

What would it have been like trying to navigate through these islands

0:43:340:43:38

under sail, no engines, without an electronic chart-plotter

0:43:380:43:42

-like the one here?

-Well, just hell.

0:43:420:43:45

I would not like to have been sailing a really big ship around here.

0:43:450:43:49

In privateering time, they were brilliant sailors.

0:43:490:43:52

We're armchair sailors, really, aren't we?

0:43:520:43:54

This is a really dangerous part of the world.

0:43:560:43:59

We're going to go over some really rather nasty rocks, in a moment.

0:43:590:44:03

-Those rocks are quite close, aren't they?

-Yeah.

0:44:030:44:05

Fear not!

0:44:100:44:11

Daredevil sailors giving the French a bloody nose in the Napoleonic wars?

0:44:150:44:20

Is that how the islanders regarded the privateers?

0:44:200:44:23

In Guernsey society it was considered to be an honourable profession

0:44:230:44:27

until the 1820's, which is way after the end of the Napoleonic war.

0:44:270:44:31

So would privateers have been celebrated on shore?

0:44:310:44:34

Oh, yes, absolutely. And most of the ships were made in Guernsey, as well.

0:44:340:44:38

I suppose privateering was considered more of a middle-class occupation,

0:44:380:44:42

and when you became nouveau riche, and moved up an echelon,

0:44:420:44:44

then you went into the Navy - the Royal Navy -

0:44:440:44:48

where you could still make a lot of money.

0:44:480:44:51

Many of the islanders shared the spoils of the privateers'

0:44:570:45:01

plundering raids, as local historian Annette Henry knows.

0:45:010:45:06

They weren't exactly following the principles of fair trade, were they?

0:45:060:45:10

Not really, no, but in times of war you have to do what you can,

0:45:100:45:13

and living on an island we needed to make money.

0:45:130:45:16

-And was it lucrative?

-It was incredibly lucrative.

0:45:160:45:19

One could amass a fortune of...

0:45:190:45:21

Well, an instance in 1799 has a Mr LeMeseurier amassing a fortune

0:45:210:45:26

of £212,000 sterling then, in 1799.

0:45:260:45:30

Equate that to today's terms

0:45:300:45:32

and we're looking at a quarter of a billion pounds in one year.

0:45:320:45:35

It was said a fifth went to the sovereign,

0:45:360:45:38

two-thirds of the remainder went to the owner of the ship of war,

0:45:380:45:42

and the remainder went to the captain and crew.

0:45:420:45:45

The sovereign was very happy to issue as many Letters of Marques as possible.

0:45:450:45:48

The privateers played a dangerous game in their tiny boats

0:45:570:46:01

dodging the warring giants on both sides of the Channel.

0:46:010:46:06

But when peace settled on the seas, their game was up.

0:46:060:46:10

Victory at Waterloo in 1815 made defences against the French redundant.

0:46:180:46:26

Calm descended on home waters.

0:46:260:46:30

Our global trade thrived because the Royal Navy reigned supreme.

0:46:300:46:36

The British Empire was envied by foreign powers,

0:46:360:46:39

but our islands seemed impregnable to seaborne attack.

0:46:390:46:44

Then, early in the 20th century, the sky came crashing in on Great Yarmouth.

0:46:440:46:51

Tessa is about to relive a tale of terror from above.

0:46:550:47:00

In 1915, we looked across the North Sea and trembled.

0:47:030:47:08

The Great War was tearing the continent apart.

0:47:080:47:11

And here on the quiet shores of Norfolk

0:47:120:47:15

a terrifying new style of attack was about to be unleashed - by aerial invaders.

0:47:150:47:21

On the night of the 19th of January 1915,

0:47:210:47:26

townsfolk on the dark streets of Great Yarmouth

0:47:260:47:29

were transfixed by an eerie noise from the fog bank above.

0:47:290:47:34

An eyewitness described the sound as 20 bicycles charging down a hill,

0:47:370:47:42

then a brilliant flash appeared in the sky,

0:47:420:47:45

a searchlight from a flying machine illuminated the streets,

0:47:450:47:49

followed by a string of bomb blasts.

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On that foggy night, many people couldn't believe their eyes.

0:47:520:47:56

But later, the local paper left no doubt.

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A Zeppelin air raid - the first on British shores.

0:48:010:48:07

With that attack on Great Yarmouth,

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the Germans unleashed three years of terror.

0:48:090:48:12

Aerial warfare was invented, as the invaders outsmarted

0:48:120:48:16

Britain's defenders.

0:48:160:48:17

Our planes were primitive, with poor communications.

0:48:190:48:22

How could our islands resist the Zeppelins?

0:48:220:48:26

Suddenly the nation's streets had become the front line.

0:48:260:48:30

Bombs rained down with fatal consequences.

0:48:300:48:33

Martha Taylor, a 72-year-old spinster, was killed here.

0:48:340:48:39

She died instantly.

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Martha and fellow casualty Samuel Smith

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were the first Britons to die in an air raid.

0:48:430:48:47

The night attack on Great Yarmouth woke Britain up to a new

0:48:470:48:51

weapon of terror.

0:48:510:48:53

Zeppelins were long-range killing machines

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carrying over 1,000lbs of bombs.

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They had hit Norfolk first, but the Germans had a bigger prize.

0:49:000:49:04

In the summer, they struck London.

0:49:040:49:08

95 died there by the year's end,

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and fear spread across the land.

0:49:100:49:14

Historian Graham Mottram knows why we struggled

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to shoot down the airships.

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We were only - what? -

0:49:200:49:23

11 years after the Wright brothers' first flight?

0:49:230:49:25

So aircraft were still very limited.

0:49:250:49:28

We had I think it was 93 aeroplanes, something like that,

0:49:280:49:31

at the outbreak of the First World War, and of course

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the art of anti-aircraft gunnery was still very, very primitive.

0:49:340:49:38

We were looking at trying to modify artillery pieces to try and...

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and shoot high in the air, in the hope of bringing these things down.

0:49:420:49:46

The Zeppelins' night-time blitz

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would strike along the length and breadth of Britain,

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killing hundreds during the First World War.

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We scrambled to invent air defences from scratch.

0:49:560:50:01

The Royal Flying Corps were fighting on the Western Front,

0:50:010:50:05

so early protection of home shores relied largely on Royal Navy aircraft.

0:50:050:50:10

They flew from coastal airstrips,

0:50:120:50:15

and the Navy also tried a desperate new tactic.

0:50:150:50:18

The aim was to intercept the airship raiders over the water,

0:50:180:50:22

which meant taking off from the sea.

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You've got this 60ft long barge - on it there's a wooden deck,

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and on that wooden deck we put a Sopwith Camel.

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Towing it quickly across the North Sea into the teeth of a strong wind

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meant there was enough flying wind across the deck.

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-You'd get lift-off!

-You'd get lift-off.

0:50:410:50:43

Let go of the string that secures the aircraft at the back of the boat

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and it leaps into the air.

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This is, effectively, a very early aircraft carrier.

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That is precisely what it is.

0:50:510:50:53

A lot of the Zeppelin attacks occurred at night.

0:50:530:50:56

What were the challenges of flying in the dark?

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Enormous. We've got these little frail aeroplanes,

0:50:590:51:03

unreliable engines.

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People got disorientated in the dark,

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often flying with a torch to be able to read the instruments.

0:51:070:51:11

There were fatalities - it was extremely dangerous.

0:51:110:51:15

Even if a fighter plane could find a Zeppelin in the pitch darkness,

0:51:160:51:21

it was still a David and Goliath struggle to destroy an airship.

0:51:210:51:26

Look at its size, compared to a fighter plane of the same period.

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It's dwarfed by the Zeppelin.

0:51:310:51:34

To lift men and bombs,

0:51:340:51:36

a vast quantity of lighter-than-air hydrogen gas was contained inside a massive frame.

0:51:360:51:43

The metal skeleton held enough gas-bags

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to survive many hits from a machine gun.

0:51:480:51:50

But the Zeppelin's greatest fear was fire.

0:51:520:51:56

Their hydrogen gas was highly flammable.

0:51:560:52:00

Could anyone conjure up a fiery magic bullet to save Britain from the Zeppelins?

0:52:020:52:07

Tony Edwards knows the secret of the new incendiary ammunition.

0:52:080:52:13

That was filled with phosphorous, and in the side of the bullet

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there was a very, very small hole filled with solder.

0:52:180:52:21

When the bullet was fired,

0:52:210:52:22

the bullet twisted up the barrel in the rifling, the solder melted,

0:52:220:52:27

and as the bullet left the muzzle of the gun,

0:52:270:52:29

it was spewing phosphorous.

0:52:290:52:31

Phosphorus ignites when in contact with the air, it sets light

0:52:310:52:34

and it leaves a smoke trail so it's burning all the way to its target.

0:52:340:52:39

Lethal to the Zeppelins, phosphorous is tricky stuff to handle.

0:52:390:52:43

Chemist Stephen Ashworth has made up a phosphorous solution.

0:52:450:52:49

Dip in a tissue, and when it dries out

0:52:500:52:53

the phosphorous comes in contact with air,

0:52:530:52:56

and it should spontaneously ignite.

0:52:560:52:59

It's like waiting for a magic trick.

0:52:590:53:02

Oh, yes!

0:53:030:53:04

-That was extraordinary! Out of nowhere.

-That's right.

0:53:060:53:09

As well as phosphorous shells,

0:53:120:53:14

by 1916 our armoury also included bullets

0:53:140:53:18

with an explosive nitro-glycerine core.

0:53:180:53:21

Now we had the chemical weapons to kill the Zeppelins.

0:53:210:53:25

But it would take brave men to try.

0:53:260:53:28

I've got a precious album that belonged to Egbert Cadbury,

0:53:320:53:36

a courageous Zeppelin hunter.

0:53:360:53:38

Cadbury was based in Great Yarmouth.

0:53:390:53:41

Originally, he was a Navy pilot,

0:53:410:53:43

but in 1918 he was co-opted into the newly formed RAF.

0:53:430:53:47

On the night of the 5th of August 1918,

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Major Cadbury launched the last attack against the airship invaders,

0:53:530:53:57

when the Germans unleashed the super-Zeppelin...

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..the L70 - the most advanced Zeppelin yet.

0:54:010:54:05

Almost 700 feet long, with seven engines,

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capable of carrying 10,000lbs of bombs.

0:54:100:54:15

I've actually got a priceless recording of Major Cadbury

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recounting his struggle against the fearsome Zeppelin

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on that fateful night.

0:54:230:54:24

'We received warning from naval patrols at sea

0:54:260:54:29

'that hostile aircraft were approaching The Wash at great height.

0:54:290:54:33

'I immediately flew off in pursuit.'

0:54:350:54:37

Unbeknown to Cadbury, he wasn't only taking on the super-Zeppelin.

0:54:410:54:45

At the helm was this man, Commander Peter Strasser,

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architect of the Zeppelin war on Britain,

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desperate to prove the worth of his airships against aircraft.

0:54:520:54:56

Today you can't fly planes like this at night,

0:54:570:55:00

but we CAN relive Cadbury's hunt for the super-Zeppelin.

0:55:000:55:03

Despite being three times the length of a jumbo jet,

0:55:040:55:08

the L70 was not easy to find in pitch blackness.

0:55:080:55:12

'You sat in the cockpit, and had to depend upon your eyesight

0:55:120:55:16

'to spot the airship against a starry sky.

0:55:160:55:19

'It was rather like trying to find a fly in a darkened bedroom.'

0:55:190:55:23

The airship was almost over the coast.

0:55:230:55:26

To intercept it Cadbury knew he would have to push his plane

0:55:260:55:29

to altitudes close to its physical limit,

0:55:290:55:32

where the air was so thin the engine was at risk of stalling.

0:55:320:55:36

In an open cockpit at 17,000ft there would have been a biting wind.

0:55:360:55:40

The engine would have been rattling, spitting oil...

0:55:400:55:43

It would have been impossible to hear a Zeppelin over the racket.

0:55:430:55:46

But miraculously, Cadbury caught a glimpse of his prey.

0:55:460:55:51

'She looked simply immense -

0:55:530:55:54

'as indeed she was, being 300 yards long from stem to stern.'

0:55:540:55:58

Held aloft by 2.2 million cubic feet of flammable hydrogen.

0:55:580:56:04

A tiny incendiary bullet could bring the super-Zeppelin down.

0:56:040:56:08

Gunner Bob Leckie made ready with his machine gun.

0:56:080:56:13

'Suddenly the darkness was ripped open.

0:56:130:56:16

'Bob Leckie gave her a few bursts of fire of tracer bullets.'

0:56:160:56:20

A hit!

0:56:240:56:26

'And within a matter of seconds

0:56:260:56:28

'flames started to leap from her bows.

0:56:280:56:30

'And as I banked away,

0:56:310:56:33

'she went blazing down to the clouds 2,000 feet beneath us.

0:56:330:56:37

'We lost sight of her as she continued her downward journey

0:56:390:56:42

'into the North Sea, nearly three miles below.'

0:56:420:56:45

Strasser, the German Zeppelin commander, fell to his death.

0:56:490:56:52

His ambitious plans for more audacious airship raids

0:56:520:56:56

died with him.

0:56:560:56:58

It started over the Norfolk coast, and it ended there.

0:56:590:57:04

Sir Egbert Cadbury went on to manage his family's chocolate empire,

0:57:040:57:09

but he kept a souvenir.

0:57:090:57:12

This is a cigarette case made from lightweight aluminium taken from

0:57:120:57:16

the super-Zeppelin.

0:57:160:57:17

It actually has Cadbury's signature inscribed on it.

0:57:170:57:20

A small reminder of a largely forgotten first Blitz on Britain,

0:57:210:57:26

when events on this coast shook the nation to its core.

0:57:260:57:31

Our island shores bear the scars of conflicts long past.

0:57:390:57:44

But the dying sun hasn't quite obscured the age-old fears of invasion.

0:57:500:57:56

For some, the pain of conquest is a living memory

0:57:580:58:03

that makes freedom something to cherish.

0:58:030:58:05

Those who remember the long dark night of Nazi occupation

0:58:110:58:16

celebrate their liberty.

0:58:160:58:18

I'm proud to stand with them

0:58:180:58:20

and think of the price people paid facing the invaders of our isles.

0:58:200:58:26

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:320:58:36

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