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Today I'm on a journey along the Great Glen of Scotland, | 0:00:24 | 0:00:27 | |
following the Caledonian Canal as it weaves its way | 0:00:27 | 0:00:30 | |
from the Atlantic in the west | 0:00:30 | 0:00:32 | |
through to the North Sea in the east. | 0:00:32 | 0:00:34 | |
I'll be travelling the length of the canal, | 0:00:34 | 0:00:36 | |
starting from high above Fort William on Aonach Mor mountain | 0:00:36 | 0:00:40 | |
through Neptune's Staircase, across Loch Oich and Loch Ness | 0:00:40 | 0:00:43 | |
and up to Chanonry Point in the north-east. | 0:00:43 | 0:00:45 | |
From there, I'll head out into the Moray Firth. | 0:00:45 | 0:00:48 | |
Along the way, I'll be looking back at the very best | 0:00:48 | 0:00:51 | |
of the BBC's rural archive from this part of the world. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:54 | |
Welcome to Country Tracks. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:56 | |
I'm starting my journey by heading to the top of Aonach Mor | 0:01:07 | 0:01:10 | |
on this amazing gondola system to take in the breath-taking views | 0:01:10 | 0:01:13 | |
of the Great Glen and the canal that runs through it. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:16 | |
Think of a canal and you'll probably picture flat towpaths through gentle countryside, | 0:01:16 | 0:01:21 | |
or murky strips of water running through our industrial cities. | 0:01:21 | 0:01:24 | |
The Caledonian Canal, which runs for just over 60 miles | 0:01:24 | 0:01:27 | |
along the Great Glen of Scotland, is only one third man made. | 0:01:27 | 0:01:31 | |
The rest is provided by nature - Loch Lochy... | 0:01:31 | 0:01:34 | |
Loch Oich... | 0:01:34 | 0:01:36 | |
and Loch Ness. | 0:01:36 | 0:01:38 | |
The gondola was originally built to lift skiers up to the slopes, | 0:01:43 | 0:01:46 | |
but now it's widely used as a short cut | 0:01:46 | 0:01:48 | |
for climbers and mountain bikers. | 0:01:48 | 0:01:50 | |
The 80 cabins run on a continuous steel cable, | 0:01:52 | 0:01:54 | |
which itself weighs 40 tons. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:57 | |
I'm being supported by 18 pylons, two masts | 0:01:57 | 0:02:00 | |
and two stations at either end, anchored in 200 tons of concrete. | 0:02:00 | 0:02:05 | |
It's actually quite a serious hill, this one. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:13 | |
In fact, it's the eighth highest peak in Scotland. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:16 | |
I've just climbed over 2,000 feet, and I did it in about 14 minutes. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:21 | |
Starting my journey up here is a great way to get my bearings. | 0:02:29 | 0:02:32 | |
Can't quite see, but just round to my left is Ben Nevis. | 0:02:32 | 0:02:36 | |
Then if you look across that loch on a good day, you can see the Inner Hebrides. | 0:02:36 | 0:02:40 | |
But the most important bit, and very exciting too, is I can see the route I'm about to take. | 0:02:40 | 0:02:45 | |
The Caledonian Canal winds its way through the start of the Great Glen here in front of me, | 0:02:45 | 0:02:50 | |
and I can even catch a glimpse of Loch Lochy. | 0:02:50 | 0:02:52 | |
The paths carved into the side of Aonach Mor | 0:02:55 | 0:02:58 | |
are mountain bike tracks made for the crazy folk who get their | 0:02:58 | 0:03:01 | |
pleasure from racing headlong down this steep and treacherous descent. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:06 | |
Adam Henson took on the challenge in the forest beneath me. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:09 | |
A few miles from the canal is Leanachan Forest. | 0:03:09 | 0:03:12 | |
It's got four world-class championship courses, | 0:03:12 | 0:03:16 | |
including cross-country and the heart-stopping downhill. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:20 | |
To show me around is mountain biker and Forestry Commission officer, Sarah McClellan. | 0:03:22 | 0:03:26 | |
Which part are we going to do today? | 0:03:26 | 0:03:28 | |
We're going to do the cross-country course. | 0:03:28 | 0:03:31 | |
It's about 8.5 kilometres and it'll take about an hour. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:34 | |
The athletes do it in 22 minutes per lap and they do six laps, so... | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
Crikey! Is it pretty tough for a novice like me? | 0:03:38 | 0:03:40 | |
Yeah, it's a red grade so there's enough to get your teeth into. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:44 | |
You'd want to do some other mountain biking if this was | 0:03:44 | 0:03:46 | |
-going to be your first, you wouldn't dive straight into this. -Let's get to it! | 0:03:46 | 0:03:50 | |
Oh! Ha, ha! | 0:04:04 | 0:04:05 | |
-That's so hard! -Yes, pretty tough. | 0:04:07 | 0:04:10 | |
So what's the technique? | 0:04:10 | 0:04:13 | |
You've got to slide your bottom right forward on the saddle. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:17 | |
It doesn't sound very comfortable and it isn't, but it's the only way to do it. | 0:04:17 | 0:04:21 | |
I soon discovered muscles I didn't even know I had. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:33 | |
Control the speed, it's not too scary. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:39 | |
If you let it go, it can be. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:41 | |
Sarah, that was quite a climb! | 0:04:53 | 0:04:56 | |
A magnificent view making it all worthwhile. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:59 | |
-Pretty spectacular. -That looks fairly extreme, going down. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:03 | |
This is our black section on the cross-country trails. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:06 | |
What's the technique? | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
Weight back off the saddle, level pedals, feathering the brakes gently so just squeezing gently. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:15 | |
No grabbing of the brakes. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:16 | |
-I'll follow you. I'll try not to scream too much! -OK! | 0:05:16 | 0:05:20 | |
Are you sure about this? Remember it's black. | 0:05:20 | 0:05:22 | |
In for a penny, in for a pound. | 0:05:22 | 0:05:25 | |
Woah! | 0:05:35 | 0:05:37 | |
'If at first you don't succeed...' | 0:05:37 | 0:05:39 | |
Ha-hey! THEY LAUGH | 0:05:47 | 0:05:49 | |
My route downhill has been much more sedate. I've come down from | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
the mountain to the beginning of the Caledonian Canal at Corpach basin | 0:05:59 | 0:06:03 | |
to sail through Neptune's Staircase. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:06 | |
This impressive feat of engineering is essentially a ladder of eight lochs | 0:06:07 | 0:06:11 | |
which raises vessels travelling along the canal to a height of 70ft above sea level. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:16 | |
Skipper Mike Lofts has invited me aboard. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:18 | |
Obviously, the best way to see Neptune's Staircase is to travel up it | 0:06:18 | 0:06:21 | |
so I'm joining this boat, aptly named The Caledonian. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:25 | |
-Hi, Mike. -Hi, Joe. -You're our skipper for the day. -I am. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:32 | |
This looks quite exciting ahead of us. Are we approaching it now? | 0:06:32 | 0:06:36 | |
-Yes, this is Neptune's Staircase. -Wow. | 0:06:36 | 0:06:39 | |
It's actually so close together, you can see all the levels going up. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:43 | |
What's the importance of this? | 0:06:43 | 0:06:46 | |
The importance is manifold really, | 0:06:46 | 0:06:48 | |
it's to save ships going round the top of Scotland. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:51 | |
It's the short cut through, which is a lot safer, | 0:06:51 | 0:06:54 | |
and also for the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic wars. | 0:06:54 | 0:06:58 | |
It helped the Navy to hide from the French so they could surprise them on attack. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:02 | |
So they would just bring their ships inland and hide here, and then pop out when the French came along? | 0:07:02 | 0:07:07 | |
-Yes, and attack. -It sounds so simple. -Yep, marvellous. | 0:07:07 | 0:07:10 | |
Because these guys, these are hefty sea-going vessels, aren't they? | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
Would they be doing what you said, | 0:07:14 | 0:07:16 | |
doing a short cut instead of going all the way round Scotland? | 0:07:16 | 0:07:18 | |
Yes, but also doing the Caledonian Canal as a tourist attraction. | 0:07:18 | 0:07:21 | |
Was there another way of doing this? Because at some point, | 0:07:21 | 0:07:24 | |
somebody stood at the bottom and said, "We should make the river go up that hill," | 0:07:24 | 0:07:28 | |
which must have seemed ambitious. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:30 | |
Was this the only possible route to link up the lochs? | 0:07:30 | 0:07:33 | |
It was Thomas Telford who designed it. He did his studies | 0:07:33 | 0:07:36 | |
and reported back, and he had the all clear to build it. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
Now we've got this fine structure. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:41 | |
It's incredible, it must have taken some time to build back then. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:44 | |
Yes, he started in 1801 and finished in 1822. | 0:07:44 | 0:07:46 | |
-Right. -They thought they would do it in six years, but they were wrong! | 0:07:46 | 0:07:50 | |
So 21 years later and three times the budget... | 0:07:50 | 0:07:53 | |
-Ouch. -But it's complete. -The Millennium Dome of its day! | 0:07:53 | 0:07:57 | |
That's the one! | 0:07:57 | 0:07:59 | |
I suppose, I mean, it's such a beautiful setting, | 0:07:59 | 0:08:02 | |
this must be one of the most picturesque lock networks ever. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:07 | |
We're kind of in the shadow of Ben Nevis there, aren't we? | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
Yes, Ben Nevis just in the distance there. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
Absolutely beautiful. A lot of people must come through just to do the route. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:16 | |
Without a doubt, yes. It's part of Great Glen Way as well | 0:08:16 | 0:08:19 | |
so cycleways, walkways, it's used by a lot of people. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:24 | |
As we go up here, am I going to be able to have a go at opening some of the lochs? | 0:08:24 | 0:08:28 | |
-Sure, course you are. -Is that OK? -Yes. | 0:08:28 | 0:08:30 | |
That's good! And if I'm really good, you might let me drive the boat? | 0:08:30 | 0:08:34 | |
Erm, yeah! | 0:08:34 | 0:08:36 | |
You look nervous, suddenly sweating! Gosh! | 0:08:36 | 0:08:39 | |
We've got two crew on board, a guy at the front, a guy at the back, | 0:08:39 | 0:08:42 | |
both have got ropes, but are we being flanked by your heavies? | 0:08:42 | 0:08:45 | |
No, these are the boat's crew. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:47 | |
We have a guy to tend the bowline and a guy to tend the stern line | 0:08:47 | 0:08:50 | |
so when we come into the locks, we can throw the lines ashore and bring the boat safely against the wall. | 0:08:50 | 0:08:56 | |
Hi. Raymond? | 0:09:04 | 0:09:06 | |
-Yes. -Hi, I'm Joe. -Hi, Joe. | 0:09:06 | 0:09:07 | |
-I believe you're the lock keeper here? -I am. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:10 | |
What are you looking out for now? | 0:09:10 | 0:09:12 | |
The sluices have been opened now and the water has levelled off. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:15 | |
-When the disturbance stops there, I know we can open the gate. -So the pressure is equal? | 0:09:15 | 0:09:20 | |
Yes. The gates won't open unless they're equal. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:22 | |
Got you. Is that what you're looking for? That looks still. | 0:09:22 | 0:09:25 | |
That's calm so we can go and open it. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:27 | |
-So this is the magic box of controls? -Yes. | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
-It looks quite simple. -It is, yes. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:33 | |
So what do you do next? | 0:09:33 | 0:09:35 | |
First thing, power on. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:36 | |
OK, now open the gates. | 0:09:36 | 0:09:39 | |
This lever here, this lever here, up and your two gates open. | 0:09:39 | 0:09:43 | |
-And they fully open? -They will, yes. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:45 | |
-Keep the levers up until it's fully open. -So I can do that? | 0:09:45 | 0:09:48 | |
-Yes. -Here we go then. | 0:09:48 | 0:09:50 | |
-The gate is opening. -One going there. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:55 | |
So the boats are all through. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:13 | |
Yes, close the gate. | 0:10:13 | 0:10:15 | |
-So this time...? -The lever down and the gates will shut. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:18 | |
There we go, getting the hang of this! | 0:10:18 | 0:10:21 | |
So will they just stop when they come together? | 0:10:27 | 0:10:30 | |
No, when they come together, | 0:10:30 | 0:10:31 | |
you'll see them vibrate slightly and you'll know that they're shut then. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:35 | |
-Very good. -And switch off. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:39 | |
-Just like that. -Thanks, Raymond. | 0:10:39 | 0:10:41 | |
-You're welcome. -Probably leave the next five or six to you! -OK. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:45 | |
It looks like we've come to the end, is that correct? | 0:10:51 | 0:10:54 | |
-Yes, this is the top of the staircase. -Very good. | 0:10:54 | 0:10:57 | |
A quick favour to ask, do you mind if I have a go on the old captain's wheel? | 0:10:57 | 0:11:00 | |
-Sure, come on in. -Excellent. So everyone is pulling away... -Yes, you've got a back thruster. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:06 | |
-Yes. -You need to use it. It's nice and clear. | 0:11:06 | 0:11:09 | |
The crew are clear, that's good news. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:11 | |
The throttle on the right. One click to just engage the engine. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:15 | |
-There we go. -If you find you're going too fast, | 0:11:16 | 0:11:18 | |
-pull it back into neutral. -Got you. | 0:11:18 | 0:11:21 | |
The back thrusters will only work when the engine is in neutral. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:24 | |
Just to push away from the sides? | 0:11:24 | 0:11:26 | |
Yes. As you can see, you're coming into the side now. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:29 | |
Wind it round. Quick hard. That's it, you find it's responding, | 0:11:29 | 0:11:34 | |
and then get back again on to the port. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
-There you go, that's fine. -Very good. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
Step it up one. | 0:11:41 | 0:11:43 | |
# When the weather is fine | 0:11:43 | 0:11:46 | |
# Then you know it's a sign | 0:11:46 | 0:11:48 | |
# For messing about on the river. # | 0:11:48 | 0:11:52 | |
I think I'll leave the skippering to Mike, | 0:11:52 | 0:11:54 | |
but if we keep going in this direction, | 0:11:54 | 0:11:56 | |
we'll eventually get to Loch Lochy and then Loch Oich. | 0:11:56 | 0:11:59 | |
This is Loch Oich in the Scottish Highlands. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:07 | |
At four miles long, | 0:12:07 | 0:12:09 | |
it's the smallest of three lochs found in the Great Glen. | 0:12:09 | 0:12:12 | |
Its neighbours are Loch Lochy and the infamous Loch Ness. | 0:12:12 | 0:12:16 | |
The Highland lochs are stunning at this time of year | 0:12:16 | 0:12:19 | |
with their autumn colours, in spite of the weather. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:21 | |
This area is renowned for its wildlife, much of which is rare or extinct elsewhere in Britain. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:27 | |
Because the human population in the Highlands is so sparse, | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
this ensures that the wildlife is allowed to thrive, making it a haven for lovers of nature. | 0:12:30 | 0:12:36 | |
Tourists and locals alike flock to the area, attracted by its flora and fauna. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:41 | |
Many stroll through the forests enjoying the peace, tranquillity | 0:12:41 | 0:12:45 | |
and chance to take things at their own pace. | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
But the local forest rangers | 0:12:48 | 0:12:49 | |
have come up with an altogether more adventurous way | 0:12:49 | 0:12:52 | |
of seeing their local wildlife. | 0:12:52 | 0:12:54 | |
You can forget the conventional walks. | 0:13:02 | 0:13:04 | |
The latest way of seeing the Scottish woodlands is from the water. | 0:13:04 | 0:13:08 | |
Hi, Adele. You're the inspiration behind Woods From The Water tours. | 0:13:08 | 0:13:13 | |
-How did you come up with that idea? -It's during my time working | 0:13:13 | 0:13:16 | |
for the Forestry Commission as a forester over the last seven years. | 0:13:16 | 0:13:19 | |
I've learned to think not just about growing trees, but about the wider picture. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:24 | |
I'm a very keen canoeist myself, and I'm lucky enough to live and work in the forest. | 0:13:24 | 0:13:28 | |
It just seemed a natural way of linking the two. | 0:13:28 | 0:13:31 | |
Does it mean that people who aren't all that keen on walking can just sit in a canoe? | 0:13:31 | 0:13:36 | |
Yes, and it's still good for you. | 0:13:36 | 0:13:38 | |
It's healthy, it's a good way to enjoy the environment. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:41 | |
You get an excellent view of the forest from the water. | 0:13:41 | 0:13:43 | |
You get into areas that are inaccessible any other way | 0:13:43 | 0:13:46 | |
so you can see some good relics of ancient semi-natural woodland. | 0:13:46 | 0:13:50 | |
You can also see wildlife, | 0:13:50 | 0:13:51 | |
and just the beautiful remote forest we see around us. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:55 | |
It's a good way of seeing the forest. | 0:13:55 | 0:13:58 | |
For this wildlife trip, you can leave your hiking boots at home. | 0:14:09 | 0:14:13 | |
You need your waterproofs and your life jacket. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:16 | |
Great. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:22 | |
My canoe partner is local wildlife ranger, Jeff Dymond. | 0:14:25 | 0:14:29 | |
More used to life on dry land, | 0:14:29 | 0:14:31 | |
Jeff has recently taken to the water to guide the tours. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:35 | |
Is it a good way to see the forest and the wildlife from the canoe then? | 0:14:35 | 0:14:40 | |
Yes, the beauty about going from the canoe is that | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
wildlife doesn't associate danger from man coming from the loch. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:48 | |
With a large group of people like we have here today, | 0:14:48 | 0:14:51 | |
you can get quite close to animals that are very shy, | 0:14:51 | 0:14:55 | |
like the otter. | 0:14:55 | 0:14:56 | |
The wild deer tend to come to the loch side | 0:14:56 | 0:14:58 | |
because of the richness of the silt | 0:14:58 | 0:15:00 | |
that has been deposited over the years - | 0:15:00 | 0:15:02 | |
it creates a very good vegetation. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:05 | |
You can see deer in this area, like sika, red deer and roe deer. | 0:15:05 | 0:15:09 | |
At this time of year, | 0:15:10 | 0:15:11 | |
it's rutting season for the deer so they're very vocal. | 0:15:11 | 0:15:14 | |
Jeff has his own unique way of attracting their attention. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:17 | |
Everybody get ready because they can swim as well so...here we go. | 0:15:17 | 0:15:21 | |
LENGTHY HIGH-PITCHED SQUEALING | 0:15:21 | 0:15:23 | |
o far, no reply from the hills. Maybe I'll have more luck. | 0:15:32 | 0:15:35 | |
SHORTER SQUEAL | 0:15:35 | 0:15:37 | |
I think I've got a bit of a sore throat! | 0:15:37 | 0:15:40 | |
I think there's a duck coming! | 0:15:40 | 0:15:42 | |
And what is this up here? | 0:15:55 | 0:15:57 | |
It's Invergarry Castle. It was a stronghold of the MacDonnells. | 0:15:57 | 0:16:01 | |
They were a very fierce, warlike clan | 0:16:01 | 0:16:04 | |
and they exploited the woodlands | 0:16:04 | 0:16:06 | |
in their time here. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:07 | |
I've been 29 years as a ranger in the wilderness | 0:16:14 | 0:16:17 | |
and I'm seeing things | 0:16:17 | 0:16:18 | |
that even I haven't seen before from the loch side. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:21 | |
There's more to the tour than going in search of wildlife on the banks of Loch Oich. | 0:16:32 | 0:16:36 | |
As well as highlighting the value of the Scottish woodland, | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
the Forestry Commission also teaches people how to respect it. | 0:16:39 | 0:16:43 | |
If people get into a place and they learn about it and they grow to love it, they'll look after it. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:48 | |
More practically, we're doing things like teaching people to camp more sensitively. | 0:16:48 | 0:16:53 | |
One thing we want to try to avoid is, for instance people camping, | 0:16:53 | 0:16:56 | |
leaving behind fire sites, bottles, that type of thing. | 0:16:56 | 0:17:00 | |
The idea is you go into a place, enjoy it, | 0:17:00 | 0:17:02 | |
and then leave it exactly as you found it. | 0:17:02 | 0:17:05 | |
The final part of the tour is a welcome, warming supper, | 0:17:05 | 0:17:08 | |
cooked over a forest friendly camp fire. | 0:17:08 | 0:17:11 | |
-Why did you want to come along on this trip? -I think it was the fact | 0:17:11 | 0:17:14 | |
that we had adventure and a chance to see some wildlife, | 0:17:14 | 0:17:19 | |
led by experts that knew what they were talking about and could show us what to look for. | 0:17:19 | 0:17:23 | |
What things have you seen from the water that you wouldn't otherwise | 0:17:23 | 0:17:27 | |
had you been walking on land? | 0:17:27 | 0:17:28 | |
We got quite close to a swan that came right up to the canoe. | 0:17:28 | 0:17:32 | |
We saw other bits and bobs of wildlife, | 0:17:32 | 0:17:34 | |
but it's just fine being on the water, | 0:17:34 | 0:17:36 | |
looking at the forest from a different perspective. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:39 | |
We haven't seen a huge amount, but you can't expect to see everything. | 0:17:39 | 0:17:42 | |
No, that's the beauty of looking for wildlife. | 0:17:42 | 0:17:45 | |
It's elusive, and if you saw it every day, | 0:17:45 | 0:17:47 | |
you wouldn't enjoy what you did see. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:49 | |
Look at this, just to finish the day off nicely, | 0:17:49 | 0:17:52 | |
some thick Scottish broth! Who's got the whisky? | 0:17:52 | 0:17:54 | |
Food and a camp fire sound pretty good to me, | 0:17:58 | 0:18:01 | |
especially with the weather starting to turn. | 0:18:01 | 0:18:04 | |
But for now, I have taken to two wheels to enjoy the shores of this breathtaking loch. | 0:18:04 | 0:18:09 | |
I am heading north along the Caledonian Canal | 0:18:15 | 0:18:18 | |
following the edge of Loch Oich towards Loch Ness. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:22 | |
Loch Oich is just over four miles long, making it the shortest of the Great Glen Lochs. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:27 | |
Not to be outdone, it is the highest of the three | 0:18:27 | 0:18:31 | |
at just over 100ft above sea level. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:33 | |
Well, Adam's adventure looked very nice, but I'm after something a little bit faster, | 0:18:41 | 0:18:46 | |
something you wouldn't normally expect on a loch in Scotland. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:50 | |
I'm going water-skiing. | 0:18:53 | 0:18:55 | |
There's loads of activities you can do here on Loch Oich, | 0:18:55 | 0:18:57 | |
but I've never tried water-skiing before | 0:18:57 | 0:19:00 | |
so I'm all kitted up and ready to get stuck in. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:02 | |
First up I need to get to grips with balancing on water | 0:19:16 | 0:19:19 | |
so I'm starting off on what's called the boom. | 0:19:19 | 0:19:21 | |
This feels fantastic! It feels surprisingly natural. | 0:19:29 | 0:19:34 | |
I'm almost trying hard to concentrate | 0:19:34 | 0:19:36 | |
because I'm just taken in by this incredible beauty all around. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:40 | |
It's quite a surreal experience. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:42 | |
It's almost relaxing. I didn't expect to say that, | 0:19:48 | 0:19:51 | |
but you're kind of just sitting down on it. | 0:19:51 | 0:19:53 | |
What did I say about sitting down on it?! | 0:20:03 | 0:20:05 | |
You're pretty good, | 0:20:05 | 0:20:06 | |
I think you're ready. Do you fancy a go on the short rope? | 0:20:06 | 0:20:09 | |
Yes, graduating to the short rope! | 0:20:09 | 0:20:12 | |
Go. | 0:20:18 | 0:20:20 | |
I'm almost doing it properly! | 0:20:23 | 0:20:25 | |
Well, that was absolutely fantastic. I'm still grinning from ear to ear. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:52 | |
It was so much fun! To do it in such a beautiful location, | 0:20:52 | 0:20:56 | |
I'm pretty sure I could stay here all day, but I can't. | 0:20:56 | 0:20:59 | |
Onwards with the journey. Next up, Loch Ness. | 0:20:59 | 0:21:03 | |
Loch Ness is one of the most famous lakes in the world, | 0:21:09 | 0:21:13 | |
not just for its outstanding beauty. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:15 | |
It's big, it's the largest lake in Scotland by volume | 0:21:15 | 0:21:19 | |
and second only to Loch Lomond by area. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:21 | |
But it's the depth of this vast expanse of water which astounds people | 0:21:21 | 0:21:25 | |
and which provides a fertile setting for the myths and mysteries which surround this magical place. | 0:21:25 | 0:21:30 | |
So there it is, the famous Loch Ness. | 0:21:35 | 0:21:38 | |
It's one of these places you learn about as a kid at school. I can't believe I've never been before. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:44 | |
It's fantastic. I'm quite glad I'm seeing it now | 0:21:44 | 0:21:46 | |
because this light looks beautiful. | 0:21:46 | 0:21:48 | |
But there's also patches of mist and cloud. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:51 | |
It looks a bit eerie, mysterious, | 0:21:51 | 0:21:53 | |
which of course fits the reputation perfectly. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:56 | |
I'm certainly not disappointed. | 0:21:56 | 0:21:58 | |
So not only is it legendary, it's simply stunning. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:03 | |
What else can you say? | 0:22:03 | 0:22:04 | |
On a glorious autumn morning, | 0:22:17 | 0:22:18 | |
I'm taking a boat ride in a northerly direction towards Inverness. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:22 | |
My companion is a man who's spent many years studying the mysterious loch in all its moods. | 0:22:22 | 0:22:29 | |
We're sitting in the middle | 0:22:31 | 0:22:32 | |
of what I believe is Britain's most significant geographical feature - | 0:22:32 | 0:22:36 | |
the Great Glen of Scotland. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:38 | |
Divides Scotland in half. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:40 | |
At one end is Britain's highest mountain, Ben Nevis, to the south | 0:22:40 | 0:22:44 | |
and here is Britain's greatest lake, Loch Ness. | 0:22:44 | 0:22:47 | |
And just how deep is it? | 0:22:47 | 0:22:49 | |
230 metres. A bit hard to visualise | 0:22:49 | 0:22:51 | |
but if you were sitting in the restaurant that used to be at the top of the Telecom Tower in London, | 0:22:51 | 0:22:56 | |
then that would be underneath us now. | 0:22:56 | 0:22:58 | |
The rest would be water. Talking of water, | 0:22:58 | 0:23:02 | |
it's actually in volume that Loch Ness is truly pre-eminent. | 0:23:02 | 0:23:05 | |
It's got more water in it than the whole of England and Wales put together. | 0:23:05 | 0:23:10 | |
This great volume causes what's called thermal inertia. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:13 | |
No summer can warm Loch Ness up significantly, no winter can freeze it. | 0:23:13 | 0:23:17 | |
In the wintertime, the water can be warmer than the air. | 0:23:17 | 0:23:22 | |
This causes mirage close to the surface on calm days | 0:23:22 | 0:23:25 | |
which tends to extend images of quite small things into quite tall things. | 0:23:25 | 0:23:30 | |
What might he be hinting at? | 0:23:30 | 0:23:32 | |
Ever since the first reports in the 1930s, | 0:23:32 | 0:23:35 | |
searching for Nessie has almost become a national obsession. | 0:23:35 | 0:23:39 | |
Special observation teams have been set up. | 0:23:39 | 0:23:42 | |
Over the years, sightings have been dismissed as fakes, | 0:23:42 | 0:23:45 | |
floating debris or bow waves from boats. | 0:23:45 | 0:23:49 | |
That hasn't stopped the excitement and intrigue, | 0:23:49 | 0:23:53 | |
and in the summer of 1967, a constant watch was kept on the loch | 0:23:53 | 0:23:56 | |
and every unusual object was filmed. | 0:23:56 | 0:23:59 | |
Still today, many people are convinced that they have seen something. | 0:23:59 | 0:24:03 | |
We were sailing up the middle of the loch. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:08 | |
We had gone just past this area | 0:24:08 | 0:24:10 | |
and we were going up towards Urquhart Castle. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:13 | |
All of a sudden, this black object rose up in the water. | 0:24:13 | 0:24:17 | |
It just broke the surface and it just went straight across | 0:24:17 | 0:24:22 | |
-the loch and disappeared. -How long was it? | 0:24:22 | 0:24:25 | |
I would say it was about 25-30 foot. | 0:24:25 | 0:24:28 | |
You couldn't tell which end was which, it was just like a hump. | 0:24:28 | 0:24:33 | |
The one and only time that I'd seen it, whatever it was, | 0:24:33 | 0:24:37 | |
we'd got the camera and we missed it. | 0:24:37 | 0:24:40 | |
It's like a fatal attraction - once you know it's there, | 0:24:40 | 0:24:42 | |
you've got to keep going and looking again! | 0:24:42 | 0:24:44 | |
Christine dismisses the idea that what she saw was a bow wave. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:48 | |
Despite all the scepticism, everyone who sees the loch with their own eyes | 0:24:48 | 0:24:53 | |
must secretly wish that, from its deep, dark waters, something will suddenly emerge. | 0:24:53 | 0:25:00 | |
No joy for John that time. | 0:25:01 | 0:25:03 | |
Looks like Loch Ness won't be giving up its secrets any time soon. | 0:25:03 | 0:25:07 | |
I'm travelling along Scotland's Caledonian Canal. | 0:25:07 | 0:25:11 | |
I started out near Fort William, | 0:25:11 | 0:25:13 | |
negotiated the locks at Neptune's Staircase and cycled past Loch Oich. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:17 | |
Now I've reached Drumnadrochit on the shores of Loch Ness. | 0:25:17 | 0:25:20 | |
There are many people who live and work the land near Loch Ness, | 0:25:21 | 0:25:24 | |
but I'm heading to a farm to get a taste of real farm life. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:28 | |
Caroline and Ian Urquhart live in a typical farmhouse with some remarkable views. | 0:25:31 | 0:25:36 | |
They've signed up to the Farm Stay UK scheme which means they regularly | 0:25:36 | 0:25:40 | |
take visitors into their B&B who want to try their hand at the farming way of life. | 0:25:40 | 0:25:46 | |
This is where I come in. | 0:25:46 | 0:25:48 | |
Hi. Ian, Caroline, hi, I'm Joe. | 0:25:48 | 0:25:51 | |
Nice to meet you. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:52 | |
-Come in. -Don't mind if I do! Thank you very much. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:55 | |
After dumping my bag, I'm straight out in the rain to meet Ian's pride and joy - | 0:25:59 | 0:26:04 | |
his herd of cattle stoically enduring the Highland weather. | 0:26:04 | 0:26:08 | |
Ready to roll. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:10 | |
Ian has gladly saved some work for me to do. | 0:26:10 | 0:26:13 | |
We are kitted out with fly spray for the cows to keep the bugs off in the warm summer months. | 0:26:13 | 0:26:19 | |
First, a little treat for one of his favourites. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:21 | |
We'll start with Taggart. | 0:26:21 | 0:26:23 | |
I'll introduce you to one of the more friendly animals on the farm. | 0:26:23 | 0:26:27 | |
-This is Taggart. -Hello, Taggart. -I'll just tie that on there. | 0:26:27 | 0:26:32 | |
What are we doing for Taggart today? | 0:26:32 | 0:26:35 | |
Taggart likes to be hand fed and hand groomed. | 0:26:35 | 0:26:38 | |
-Precious Taggart! -It's a bit of grooming for Taggart at this time. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:43 | |
If you want to groom him anywhere, he's happy. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:46 | |
-Is he going to be happy with this? -Oh, yes. ..That's a good boy. | 0:26:46 | 0:26:50 | |
-Well done, Taggart. -There we go. | 0:26:50 | 0:26:51 | |
The art of good husbandry is... | 0:26:53 | 0:26:56 | |
healthy and happy animals so how content do you want? | 0:26:56 | 0:27:00 | |
Is this to make him content or is this actually for a specific reason? | 0:27:00 | 0:27:04 | |
If you were showing them, there would be a more specific reason, | 0:27:04 | 0:27:08 | |
-but it's just contentment that this is all about. -Fantastic. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:12 | |
Tell me about your farm. It's not a normal farm, is it? | 0:27:13 | 0:27:17 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:27:17 | 0:27:19 | |
It's... It's a mix of livestock | 0:27:19 | 0:27:23 | |
and bed and breakfast which goes very well together | 0:27:23 | 0:27:27 | |
because the visitors are interested in the working farm, | 0:27:27 | 0:27:31 | |
and then they arrive here and find they've got the glorious scenery | 0:27:31 | 0:27:36 | |
and Loch Ness all thrown in. | 0:27:36 | 0:27:39 | |
It's a real bonus for them. | 0:27:39 | 0:27:41 | |
What sort of people come and stay? | 0:27:41 | 0:27:44 | |
Obviously, people who are interested in farm animals and how farms run? | 0:27:44 | 0:27:48 | |
People from all the UK, Europe, worldwide. | 0:27:48 | 0:27:52 | |
Quite a lot of farmers from abroad | 0:27:52 | 0:27:55 | |
because they're interested in how we go about farming in the UK. | 0:27:55 | 0:27:59 | |
Is that right? So when farmers take holidays, they go to other farms! | 0:27:59 | 0:28:03 | |
I know, busman's holiday. | 0:28:03 | 0:28:04 | |
It does happen. ..Good for you, Taggart. | 0:28:04 | 0:28:08 | |
A little bit of a parting. | 0:28:08 | 0:28:10 | |
Taggart was never this stylish! Maybe a little quiff... | 0:28:10 | 0:28:14 | |
-Perfect. Look at that. -A bit like mine. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:17 | |
What could be better? Well done, Joe. | 0:28:17 | 0:28:20 | |
Such a bonny boy! | 0:28:20 | 0:28:22 | |
Taggart is now one very happy, very pampered cow. | 0:28:24 | 0:28:28 | |
Next up, warding off those flies. | 0:28:28 | 0:28:30 | |
OK, so this is Hamish. He is first up for treatment. | 0:28:32 | 0:28:37 | |
Basically, what you're doing is squeezing and moving at the same time. | 0:28:37 | 0:28:42 | |
You want to get an entire dose of the swish along the back. | 0:28:42 | 0:28:47 | |
-A nice, even coating? -A nice, even coating. | 0:28:47 | 0:28:49 | |
-Then it spreads over the animal. -Excellent. | 0:28:49 | 0:28:52 | |
What happens to Hamish? He comes out and we do the next one? | 0:28:52 | 0:28:55 | |
-Absolutely perfect. -There, little swish of the tail to finish. -Great. | 0:28:56 | 0:29:01 | |
-Now this is Hamish's mother. -Hamish's mother? -Come on, lass. | 0:29:01 | 0:29:05 | |
OK. | 0:29:05 | 0:29:07 | |
-Absolutely perfect. -There we go. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:16 | |
-She doesn't have a name this one, is that right? -No. | 0:29:16 | 0:29:19 | |
Since you're here, if you wish to name her... | 0:29:19 | 0:29:23 | |
Well, I think we'll call her Flora. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:25 | |
-Is that all right? -That's perfect. | 0:29:25 | 0:29:27 | |
-We don't have a Flora on the farm at the moment. -That's perfect. | 0:29:27 | 0:29:30 | |
-You had a Morag already, so she's going to be Flora. -That's good. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:33 | |
-Come on, all the way. -She wants company. | 0:29:37 | 0:29:40 | |
That's for sure. | 0:29:40 | 0:29:42 | |
I think we might have earned ourselves a cup of tea? | 0:29:44 | 0:29:48 | |
Well, also a wee dram of Ardbeg. LAUGHTER | 0:29:48 | 0:29:52 | |
-You're twisting my arm. -It's traditional to | 0:29:52 | 0:29:55 | |
have a wee shot of whisky after working heavily all day. | 0:29:55 | 0:29:59 | |
In you come, Joe, | 0:29:59 | 0:30:01 | |
-and Caroline's prepared some scones and something else. -Wow! | 0:30:01 | 0:30:06 | |
You must be a mind reader, this is exactly what I feel like. | 0:30:06 | 0:30:10 | |
-You'll be needing it after your journey? -Yeah! | 0:30:10 | 0:30:12 | |
Just some scones I baked earlier on | 0:30:12 | 0:30:14 | |
with cream and jam and that's clootie dumpling, | 0:30:14 | 0:30:17 | |
-which is traditional up here served as a dessert. -Right. | 0:30:17 | 0:30:20 | |
And then, the next day, | 0:30:20 | 0:30:21 | |
-you fry it with bacon and have it with breakfast. -Fantastic. | 0:30:21 | 0:30:24 | |
-You're being subjected to all our traditions. -Honoured, honoured. | 0:30:24 | 0:30:29 | |
-You need some cream with it. -Do I? OK, great. | 0:30:29 | 0:30:32 | |
-You like cream, yes? -Yes, go ahead. | 0:30:32 | 0:30:34 | |
This is a treat, it's fantastic. This is just what I feel like, | 0:30:34 | 0:30:37 | |
because I've been water-skiing, cycling and all sorts today. | 0:30:37 | 0:30:40 | |
So you will be needing calories? | 0:30:40 | 0:30:42 | |
Yes, calories in the cream and the scones are perfect. | 0:30:42 | 0:30:46 | |
That's a cloth pudding. That's steamed for three hours in a cloth | 0:30:46 | 0:30:51 | |
-in boiling water and it keeps for quite a long time. -Here we go. | 0:30:51 | 0:30:56 | |
-Mmm! That's delicious, isn't it? -Do you like it? -Very nice. | 0:31:00 | 0:31:03 | |
-And this is the perfect location for doing what you do, isn't it? -Yes. | 0:31:03 | 0:31:08 | |
Looking out of your window to see Loch Ness behind us, and it's stunning. | 0:31:08 | 0:31:12 | |
Well, people, I tend to have difficulty getting them out of the breakfast room in the morning. | 0:31:12 | 0:31:17 | |
They just want to sit in here and look for Nessie. | 0:31:17 | 0:31:20 | |
I've got to ask, have you ever seen Nessie? | 0:31:20 | 0:31:23 | |
I've not seen Nessie, | 0:31:23 | 0:31:25 | |
but my father, who was a great salmon fisher, saw it in the '50s. | 0:31:25 | 0:31:29 | |
He saw something like a malformed reptile | 0:31:29 | 0:31:32 | |
and he definitely did see it, | 0:31:32 | 0:31:34 | |
he wasn't the type of person to say he did. | 0:31:34 | 0:31:37 | |
He said it was about 30ft long. There was something there, | 0:31:37 | 0:31:40 | |
I don't know if it still is, but I am a firm believer in Nessie. | 0:31:40 | 0:31:43 | |
-A lot of people, they play it up, don't they? -Yes. | 0:31:43 | 0:31:46 | |
But you believe that something...? | 0:31:46 | 0:31:48 | |
I do believe there was something there of some type. | 0:31:48 | 0:31:51 | |
I don't know if it still is. Lots of people come here, | 0:31:51 | 0:31:54 | |
and come for the scenery as well, | 0:31:54 | 0:31:55 | |
but at the back of their minds is a chance they might see Nessie. | 0:31:55 | 0:31:59 | |
Sometimes they sit here with binoculars, especially children. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:02 | |
At breakfast time, you can see them scoping it? | 0:32:02 | 0:32:05 | |
"What's that in the loch?!" And it's a boat. | 0:32:05 | 0:32:07 | |
But definitely, there certainly was something there. | 0:32:07 | 0:32:11 | |
I didn't expect you to say that. | 0:32:11 | 0:32:13 | |
'It's been great meeting Caroline and Ian and getting | 0:32:13 | 0:32:16 | |
'an insight into life here on the edge of Loch Ness. | 0:32:16 | 0:32:20 | |
'With a full stomach and a warm glow from the whisky, I'm continuing north towards Inverness.' | 0:32:20 | 0:32:25 | |
I'd expect to see Highland cattle and Aberdeen Angus in Scotland, | 0:32:25 | 0:32:29 | |
I didn't realise however that wild boar are becoming popular in some farmyards. | 0:32:29 | 0:32:34 | |
Adam Henson saw them first hand. | 0:32:34 | 0:32:36 | |
SNORTING AND SQUEALING | 0:32:38 | 0:32:40 | |
'Six years ago, Lucinder Spicer swapped the bright lights | 0:32:40 | 0:32:44 | |
'and expensive restaurants of the Square Mile to set up | 0:32:44 | 0:32:47 | |
'one of Britain's most northerly wild boar farms in the remote hills near Inverness.' | 0:32:47 | 0:32:53 | |
Why did you move out of central London to come to the Highlands? | 0:32:53 | 0:32:56 | |
We'd always promised ourselves we wouldn't stay | 0:32:56 | 0:32:59 | |
in London permanently and we got to the stage in our careers | 0:32:59 | 0:33:03 | |
when it was OK to do so. So we upped sticks and moved. | 0:33:03 | 0:33:08 | |
We wanted to do something that was economically in tune with where we were settling | 0:33:08 | 0:33:12 | |
and everyone does sheep and cattle and that kind of thing, and we wanted | 0:33:12 | 0:33:16 | |
to do something a bit different, wilder and alternative. | 0:33:16 | 0:33:19 | |
-Did your friends think you were nuts? -They always have thought I was nuts! | 0:33:19 | 0:33:25 | |
'Wild boar in the UK disappeared 300 years ago, | 0:33:25 | 0:33:28 | |
'although farms like Lucinder's are helping bring them back. | 0:33:28 | 0:33:32 | |
'These boar came from stock originally from the harsh wilds of Siberia. | 0:33:32 | 0:33:35 | |
'They're a tough breed, as I was soon to find out.' | 0:33:35 | 0:33:38 | |
You can see some lovely little piglets in there? | 0:33:38 | 0:33:41 | |
Yeah, they are. There's 20 there with the four sows there. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:45 | |
They're obviously feeding peacefully, but you can see Anthony moving up round the corner | 0:33:45 | 0:33:52 | |
and he's coming in front to come between us and his family. | 0:33:52 | 0:33:56 | |
Oh, and... Now he's tearing up the ground | 0:33:56 | 0:34:01 | |
with his feet, so I think we need to... | 0:34:01 | 0:34:04 | |
We need to just retreat and leave him to it. | 0:34:04 | 0:34:08 | |
'Anthony, the father of these litters, quietly asserted himself to protect his family's space. | 0:34:09 | 0:34:14 | |
'Thankfully, it was all show and no action.' | 0:34:16 | 0:34:19 | |
How many wild boar have you got? | 0:34:23 | 0:34:25 | |
On the farm at the moment, we've got 200, | 0:34:25 | 0:34:28 | |
roughly 40 breeding stock and 160 which will go for meat this year. | 0:34:28 | 0:34:33 | |
And then we've got 35 little ones that have been born in the last couple of weeks. | 0:34:33 | 0:34:38 | |
-That's a lot of pigs, isn't it? -It is, and then more will arrive, | 0:34:38 | 0:34:43 | |
so we could have up to 200 born this year, if we have successful farrowings. | 0:34:43 | 0:34:48 | |
If I keep them in good condition, they'll farrow again in the summer, | 0:34:48 | 0:34:52 | |
so they'll go twice through if the conditions are good. | 0:34:52 | 0:34:55 | |
And to keep wild boar, you need a wild animals licence? | 0:34:55 | 0:34:58 | |
You do. The councils in England, Wales and Scotland require you | 0:34:58 | 0:35:02 | |
to be licensed under the Dangerous Wild Animals Act. | 0:35:02 | 0:35:05 | |
And that's a statutory requirement. | 0:35:05 | 0:35:09 | |
I notice you've got electric fencing, is that part of the Wild Animals Act criteria? | 0:35:09 | 0:35:14 | |
It's one condition for keeping them secure and it keeps the animals from digging up fences. | 0:35:14 | 0:35:20 | |
Do they ever escape and get on to your neighbours' farms? | 0:35:20 | 0:35:23 | |
No, we're completely covered here by outside deer fencing, | 0:35:23 | 0:35:28 | |
which is 6ft high and they have low fencing to the enclosures. | 0:35:28 | 0:35:33 | |
In theory, they can jump over, | 0:35:33 | 0:35:36 | |
but they don't because they've got everything they need inside. | 0:35:36 | 0:35:41 | |
Amazing the change in the weather, isn't it? | 0:35:49 | 0:35:51 | |
One minute, beautiful sunshine, the next minute it's blizzarding. | 0:35:51 | 0:35:55 | |
Some people say pigs wreck the place? | 0:35:55 | 0:35:58 | |
LOUD SQUEALING Well, actually, they do. | 0:35:58 | 0:36:00 | |
These animals have been in here for three weeks and you can see they have | 0:36:00 | 0:36:04 | |
totally flattened the bracken and they've taken the gorse down. | 0:36:04 | 0:36:08 | |
You can see the way they are clipping the tops of the gorse to make nests | 0:36:08 | 0:36:12 | |
-and to make shelter. -How many months before they're ready to be | 0:36:12 | 0:36:17 | |
made into meat and go for sausages? | 0:36:17 | 0:36:19 | |
We take them off between 12 and 18 months of age, so they get a pretty good life span. | 0:36:19 | 0:36:25 | |
They are mature by the time they go. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:27 | |
We don't, as a matter of policy, sell young animals, suckling pigs. | 0:36:27 | 0:36:33 | |
There is a demand for them on the Continent, they eat them at six months of age. | 0:36:33 | 0:36:37 | |
We don't feel they've had any kind of life by then. | 0:36:37 | 0:36:41 | |
-I understand your husband might have some sausages on the go? -Um, we're hoping, we are hoping. | 0:36:41 | 0:36:46 | |
-I'm looking forward to tasting it, let's wander back up the hill. -OK. | 0:36:47 | 0:36:51 | |
-MEAT SIZZLES -Chef, you got the easy part of this | 0:36:51 | 0:36:55 | |
-rearing pigs, just the cooking? -I think that's about right. | 0:36:55 | 0:36:58 | |
I do actually help out from time to time. | 0:36:58 | 0:37:00 | |
Let me give it a taste. | 0:37:00 | 0:37:03 | |
Wow, it's really lovely, very different to the domesticated pigs I rear at home. | 0:37:03 | 0:37:09 | |
It is far more like beef. It is a very high-protein meat and it is a dark meat. | 0:37:09 | 0:37:14 | |
Any regrets, Lucinder? Do you think you'd like to go back to the city? | 0:37:14 | 0:37:18 | |
Absolutely not, I would never go back. | 0:37:18 | 0:37:21 | |
I do really enjoy being out on the hill and dealing with | 0:37:21 | 0:37:25 | |
things that are real and important, it's very satisfying. | 0:37:25 | 0:37:29 | |
I think I'll stick with my Highland cows. Taggart was much friendlier. | 0:37:34 | 0:37:38 | |
More importantly, I've just reached the very northern tip of the Caledonian Canal, | 0:37:38 | 0:37:42 | |
where the waters finally flow out into the North Sea. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:46 | |
My journey has cut diagonally across Scotland, | 0:37:46 | 0:37:48 | |
taking me from Fort William, along three incredible lochs | 0:37:48 | 0:37:51 | |
and now finally to the coast at Inverness and beyond. | 0:37:51 | 0:37:56 | |
One of the most dramatic views Inverness has to offer is the view of the bridge over the Ness | 0:37:56 | 0:38:02 | |
and the fantastic panoramic of the city behind it. | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
Inverness is known as the capital of the Highlands, it became a city in the year 2000. | 0:38:07 | 0:38:12 | |
A real contrast to the rural areas I've explored so far. | 0:38:12 | 0:38:16 | |
To the north of the city, the Caledonian Canal finally reaches the open water as the landscape | 0:38:16 | 0:38:22 | |
changes to a coastal scene set off by the lighthouse at Chanonry Point. | 0:38:22 | 0:38:28 | |
The Moray Firth has some famous and well-loved residents. | 0:38:28 | 0:38:32 | |
Its own pod of bottle-nosed dolphins. | 0:38:32 | 0:38:35 | |
I've come down here to Chanonry Point, one of the best places in the UK to see dolphins from the shore. | 0:38:35 | 0:38:41 | |
And if you're lucky, you might also catch a glimpse of Charlie Phillips. | 0:38:41 | 0:38:45 | |
Charlie is a professional photographer who comes here most days | 0:38:48 | 0:38:51 | |
to observe and photograph the dolphins. He takes around 60,000 photos a year. | 0:38:51 | 0:38:57 | |
Hopefully we'll get a sighting today. | 0:38:57 | 0:39:00 | |
-Morning, Charlie, how are you? -Lovely morning. -Very good morning. | 0:39:02 | 0:39:07 | |
-Anything out there this morning? -Four dolphins out here this morning. | 0:39:07 | 0:39:11 | |
-A couple of big males over there, see big Nevis, he's just poked his dorsal fin up. -Yeah. | 0:39:11 | 0:39:16 | |
And we have Keslet and wee Charlie, our 18-month-old calf. | 0:39:16 | 0:39:20 | |
They are hunting just in the tidal current, they're only about 20ft off the beach. | 0:39:20 | 0:39:24 | |
I never thought they'd be so close, it's amazing. | 0:39:24 | 0:39:26 | |
Yes, the water around here is really deep. | 0:39:26 | 0:39:29 | |
-That's why this beach is excellent for land watching. -Fantastic. | 0:39:29 | 0:39:32 | |
There you go, see? The seagull's right on top of the dolphin just now. | 0:39:32 | 0:39:38 | |
Hoping to get a bit of the fish. | 0:39:38 | 0:39:40 | |
You mentioned a load of names. Do you know these dolphins well? | 0:39:40 | 0:39:43 | |
Yes, when you're watching them and studying them for quite a while, | 0:39:43 | 0:39:48 | |
you begin to get the nick marks and scratches on the dorsal fin | 0:39:48 | 0:39:52 | |
almost imprinted in your brain. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:54 | |
We also have a catalogue of animals, | 0:39:54 | 0:39:57 | |
Aberdeen University for the past 20 years have been compiling, basically, | 0:39:57 | 0:40:01 | |
a Who's Who of Moray Firth dolphins. | 0:40:01 | 0:40:04 | |
Really? Using your photos? | 0:40:04 | 0:40:06 | |
Some of them are mine, some are from the lighthouse field station. | 0:40:06 | 0:40:09 | |
-You have been doing this for a long time now? -Quite a while, yes. -You're still learning new things? | 0:40:09 | 0:40:14 | |
Absolutely, bottle-nosed dolphins are very complex animals and they have a very complicated social structure. | 0:40:14 | 0:40:20 | |
And we're only beginning to just peel back the layers of the onion now | 0:40:20 | 0:40:25 | |
and it keeps me down here almost every day. | 0:40:25 | 0:40:28 | |
-I was going to say, are you here every morning? -Almost, it depends on when the tide is running. | 0:40:28 | 0:40:33 | |
For land watching in this area, rising tides are very important, | 0:40:33 | 0:40:38 | |
-that's when the dolphins are coming in. -Is that what we've got now? | 0:40:38 | 0:40:41 | |
Yes, if you imagine, this tidal current is almost like a conveyor belt. | 0:40:41 | 0:40:46 | |
-A supermarket conveyor belt of food coming towards the dolphins. -OK. | 0:40:46 | 0:40:50 | |
They're at the end of the conveyor belt waiting for the fish to come, and the rising tide brings new, | 0:40:50 | 0:40:55 | |
especially at this time of year, migratory salmon coming in | 0:40:55 | 0:40:58 | |
and the dolphins are intercepting them without wasting too much energy. | 0:40:58 | 0:41:03 | |
It's a bit harsh on the salmon, almost, it's quite an obstacle course getting past these fellas? | 0:41:03 | 0:41:07 | |
-Yeah, and the thing is, these are big, big dolphins and they will take some big fish. -OK. | 0:41:07 | 0:41:13 | |
We see them throwing around 15lb salmon. | 0:41:13 | 0:41:16 | |
-Some pretty big stuff. -Wow! What about the photos? | 0:41:16 | 0:41:21 | |
I've gone whale-watching before and I've got a lot of pictures of water! | 0:41:21 | 0:41:25 | |
-Is that a big problem as they only pop up briefly? -It can be, it depends on what they're doing. | 0:41:25 | 0:41:30 | |
If they're coming to the surface, as they are just now, they're foraging for food, | 0:41:30 | 0:41:34 | |
in fairly much the one place, so you have a reasonable chance of getting them with a camera. | 0:41:34 | 0:41:39 | |
But once they start rocketing around, maybe chasing fish, | 0:41:39 | 0:41:43 | |
that can be more difficult, because they're moving at 20mph plus | 0:41:43 | 0:41:47 | |
-and trying to film that or photograph that can be quite difficult. -I bet. | 0:41:47 | 0:41:51 | |
'Charlie has brought along part of his identification catalogue with him today. | 0:41:54 | 0:41:59 | |
'And when identifying dolphins, it's all about the dorsal fins.' | 0:41:59 | 0:42:02 | |
So, big Nevis, who is out there just now. | 0:42:05 | 0:42:08 | |
-See the scratches on his dorsal fin? -Incredible, what would make those? | 0:42:08 | 0:42:12 | |
Other dolphins' teeth. This is interaction with other animals. | 0:42:12 | 0:42:16 | |
You see the way the skin's bitten away at the back? | 0:42:16 | 0:42:19 | |
Males quite often have this, they're competing with each other for access to females. | 0:42:19 | 0:42:25 | |
-OK. -It may be territory as well. -I wouldn't be able to spot that from here. | 0:42:25 | 0:42:29 | |
No, you might need to be looking through binoculars or if the animals were really close in to the beach, | 0:42:29 | 0:42:35 | |
once your eye becomes accustomed to different dorsal fins... | 0:42:35 | 0:42:38 | |
-Which yours has? -Yeah. I've been doing it for a while. | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
In conclusion, you need to keep doing this and keep going and getting more information. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:46 | |
Say one of these animals got into a fight with another dolphin | 0:42:46 | 0:42:50 | |
and that other dolphin took a bite out of the back of the dorsal fin. | 0:42:50 | 0:42:53 | |
-The likes of Rainbow has a very small nick there. -Uh-huh. | 0:42:53 | 0:42:56 | |
She could quite easily pick up another and that'd change the whole look of her dorsal fin. | 0:42:56 | 0:43:01 | |
So that next photograph becomes your latest passport photo for that dolphin. | 0:43:01 | 0:43:06 | |
And the calf out there now, I believe is named after you. | 0:43:06 | 0:43:10 | |
Yeah, wee Charlie. | 0:43:10 | 0:43:12 | |
Keslet, his mother, who is around here somewhere, | 0:43:12 | 0:43:15 | |
she has been my favourite dolphin in this population | 0:43:15 | 0:43:20 | |
for a long, long time. | 0:43:20 | 0:43:21 | |
She had her own calf in 2007. | 0:43:21 | 0:43:25 | |
He's just like her when she was small, he's cheeky. | 0:43:25 | 0:43:28 | |
He's got a real attitude and he's wonderful to watch. | 0:43:28 | 0:43:32 | |
He'll be coming up to about 18 months old now. | 0:43:32 | 0:43:35 | |
-You have a duty to keep looking out for him? -Absolutely. You've got to look after your namesake. | 0:43:35 | 0:43:40 | |
'It's no surprise these superb creatures are a huge draw for tourists and visitors. | 0:43:41 | 0:43:47 | |
'But the numbers of people wanting to see them brings with it challenges.' | 0:43:47 | 0:43:50 | |
Back in 1995, Jilly Parton reported on some of the issues facing this precious but fragile population. | 0:43:54 | 0:44:02 | |
If you really want to get close to nature, this is a fantastic way of doing it. | 0:44:02 | 0:44:06 | |
Wind in your hair, the faint smack of salt on your lips and masses to see. | 0:44:06 | 0:44:12 | |
'The waters of the Moray Firth are beautiful, deep and dark | 0:44:12 | 0:44:16 | |
'and they are home to around 150 bottle-nosed dolphins. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:20 | |
'Watching them is magical and the joy is, | 0:44:22 | 0:44:25 | |
'they're not just passing through, they're born and bred here. | 0:44:25 | 0:44:29 | |
'People are drawn to the dolphins, so much so, not even a good drenching | 0:44:29 | 0:44:34 | |
'on the wettest Scottish day in 10 years can put them off. | 0:44:34 | 0:44:37 | |
'It's misty out there, but no-one's complaining.' | 0:44:37 | 0:44:41 | |
We've driven about 30 miles to come on this trip. | 0:44:41 | 0:44:44 | |
Hopefully to see some dolphins in the wild. | 0:44:44 | 0:44:47 | |
You know they're here, so it's nice to be able to see them. | 0:44:47 | 0:44:50 | |
The dolphins'll come alongside the boat and then jump out | 0:44:50 | 0:44:54 | |
and turn and fall back and splash everyone on the boat. | 0:44:54 | 0:44:57 | |
We've had that happen quite a few times. | 0:44:57 | 0:44:59 | |
But to see them doing it, because they want to do it, | 0:44:59 | 0:45:02 | |
they're not being fed to do it, not being paid or looked after, | 0:45:02 | 0:45:06 | |
they're doing it cos they're free and want to do it. It's brilliant. | 0:45:06 | 0:45:10 | |
And it's big business. | 0:45:10 | 0:45:12 | |
September alone will see around 40,000 trippers in Inverness. | 0:45:12 | 0:45:16 | |
This shop will shift 1,000 T-shirts. | 0:45:16 | 0:45:20 | |
And there's always something for the mantelpiece. | 0:45:20 | 0:45:23 | |
So, the word has spread about the Moray Firth dolphins | 0:45:25 | 0:45:29 | |
and as it has done so, more and more people are turning up to enjoy them. | 0:45:29 | 0:45:33 | |
But the souvenirs and the T-shirts are one thing. | 0:45:33 | 0:45:36 | |
What's really causing concern, though, are some of the boat trips. | 0:45:36 | 0:45:40 | |
Let me put you in the picture. | 0:45:40 | 0:45:42 | |
This is the Moray Firth and the dolphins absolutely love it here. | 0:45:42 | 0:45:45 | |
Why? Because it's an excellent feeding ground. | 0:45:45 | 0:45:48 | |
There are really good strong currents, which the dolphins like, | 0:45:48 | 0:45:51 | |
and it's nice and sheltered. But some of them go further. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:55 | |
They swim all the way down here and under the bridge | 0:45:55 | 0:45:58 | |
and into Kessock Narrows or what's known locally as the Kessock Channel | 0:45:58 | 0:46:02 | |
and this is the problem area. | 0:46:02 | 0:46:05 | |
And here it is, the ribbon of water that flows from just out there beyond the bridge and into the narrows here. | 0:46:05 | 0:46:12 | |
At the moment, two boat operators ply this route and one of them is Moray Firth Cruises. | 0:46:12 | 0:46:18 | |
Between them, they make about 12 boat trips every day in the summer | 0:46:18 | 0:46:21 | |
taking sightseers out to watch for dolphins. | 0:46:21 | 0:46:24 | |
What's the problem? Well, Scottish Natural Heritage | 0:46:24 | 0:46:27 | |
and the Scottish Wildlife Trust want to limit the number of trips, | 0:46:27 | 0:46:31 | |
they say to protect the dolphins and the environment that they love from too much human interference. | 0:46:31 | 0:46:37 | |
'They've done it by introducing the Dolphin Space Programme, | 0:46:37 | 0:46:41 | |
'asking everyone to respect the dolphins' need for room. | 0:46:41 | 0:46:44 | |
'It includes a voluntary code of conduct for the six regular boat operators on the Firth to follow. | 0:46:44 | 0:46:49 | |
'Its key points are, maintain a slow, steady speed throughout the trip. | 0:46:49 | 0:46:53 | |
'Follow an agreed route without stopping or deviating. | 0:46:53 | 0:46:56 | |
'Slow down if dolphins appear directly ahead. So far, so good. | 0:46:56 | 0:47:00 | |
'The sticking point for the boatmen in the Narrows is this.' | 0:47:00 | 0:47:04 | |
We have asked in this particularly sensitive area, which is considered | 0:47:04 | 0:47:07 | |
the most sensitive area in the Moray Firth for the dolphins, | 0:47:07 | 0:47:11 | |
we've asked that trips | 0:47:11 | 0:47:13 | |
going round and about this particular area be limited to four overall a day. | 0:47:13 | 0:47:18 | |
And since there are two operators, it would be two each. | 0:47:18 | 0:47:21 | |
Science at the moment indicates that boating behaviour can have an effect on the dolphins. | 0:47:21 | 0:47:27 | |
And short term effects have been seen and they've also been seen here where the animals dive for longer, | 0:47:27 | 0:47:33 | |
they stop communicating with each other. | 0:47:33 | 0:47:36 | |
There are various different short-term studies which have been done. | 0:47:36 | 0:47:40 | |
In fact, it will be another 10 to 11 years before we know whether this population is remaining stable | 0:47:40 | 0:47:46 | |
or whether the numbers are increasing or decreasing. | 0:47:46 | 0:47:49 | |
What if you had to do 2 trips a day, then, what would that do to business? | 0:47:49 | 0:47:53 | |
We'd be bankrupt. The bank would have the boat, the boat would be sold, | 0:47:53 | 0:47:57 | |
which is annoying when Scottish National Heritage | 0:47:57 | 0:48:00 | |
knew last year before we invested in the boat that we'd be doing five, six and even seven trips a day. | 0:48:00 | 0:48:05 | |
But they never said anything about restricting trips. | 0:48:05 | 0:48:08 | |
We are not here to upset the dolphins at all, we've been born and brought up here. | 0:48:08 | 0:48:12 | |
We've seen them all our lives. | 0:48:12 | 0:48:14 | |
There has been a ferry boat service here, there's been 60 to 100 trawlers which used to fish in here. | 0:48:14 | 0:48:20 | |
So when they've been here for four or five years and say, "We think this is what'll happen," | 0:48:20 | 0:48:24 | |
they've no evidence, no proof. | 0:48:24 | 0:48:27 | |
The proof we have is the dolphins play with the boat. | 0:48:27 | 0:48:30 | |
Every time we go out, the dolphins play with the boat, the calves come near the boat. | 0:48:30 | 0:48:34 | |
If they felt threatened, they wouldn't come near us at all. | 0:48:34 | 0:48:38 | |
The harbourmaster is confused, too. After all, there are 3,000 ship movements in the Channel every year. | 0:48:38 | 0:48:44 | |
The environmentalists can't stop that, but he says, why pick on the boatmen? | 0:48:44 | 0:48:48 | |
I do think the boatmen are being targeted unfairly, | 0:48:48 | 0:48:51 | |
because I see the main problem, in fact, as | 0:48:51 | 0:48:54 | |
the people involved in the leisure watersports sector. | 0:48:54 | 0:48:57 | |
Mainly the high-speed boats, | 0:48:57 | 0:49:01 | |
the run-arounds, the jet skiers, the water-skiers. | 0:49:01 | 0:49:04 | |
In fact, only a couple of weeks ago, we had a complaint from the coastguards | 0:49:04 | 0:49:08 | |
wanting to know if the lifeboat could be launched because it was the only boat fast enough | 0:49:08 | 0:49:13 | |
to try and get under control a powerboat that was in actual fact actively chasing the dolphins. | 0:49:13 | 0:49:20 | |
It must be said, the jet ski generation is on the hit list, | 0:49:20 | 0:49:23 | |
but limiting the boat trips takes priority for Holly Arnold, even if it means legislation. | 0:49:23 | 0:49:29 | |
In a number of other countries where there are whale and dolphin watching operations, | 0:49:29 | 0:49:33 | |
they have regulations, which are legal licensing systems, if you like, | 0:49:33 | 0:49:39 | |
to allow people to go and look at the dolphins from boats. | 0:49:39 | 0:49:43 | |
And it's that sort of thing we would then, let's say, | 0:49:43 | 0:49:46 | |
might be the next step if the voluntary and co-operative approach doesn't work. | 0:49:46 | 0:49:50 | |
14 years on, I'm interested to find out how the Dolphin Space Programme is going. | 0:49:53 | 0:49:59 | |
Deborah Benham has agreed to take me out on a trip to find out. | 0:49:59 | 0:50:03 | |
-You're the project officer for Dolphin Space Programme. -Right. | 0:50:04 | 0:50:08 | |
How's it been going? Did you have to introduce legislation at any point? | 0:50:08 | 0:50:12 | |
No, we didn't. The Dolphin Space Programme has been very successful. | 0:50:12 | 0:50:15 | |
We've been going 14 years now. | 0:50:15 | 0:50:17 | |
Over those years, the scheme's expanded over a much broader area in the Moray Firth, | 0:50:17 | 0:50:23 | |
so we now have 12 members all the way from Portmahomack in the north, | 0:50:23 | 0:50:26 | |
all the way over to Aberdeenshire, Banff and Macduff. | 0:50:26 | 0:50:29 | |
It's really developed into a nice partnership. | 0:50:29 | 0:50:32 | |
Everyone comes together and we do a lot of collaborative work, so I think it's been a success. | 0:50:32 | 0:50:36 | |
Have you had to get really tough with anyone? | 0:50:36 | 0:50:40 | |
Nothing really tough. | 0:50:40 | 0:50:41 | |
We're asking operators to adhere to a voluntary code of conduct and sometimes that gets broken | 0:50:41 | 0:50:46 | |
when it's just too tempting to go to where the dolphins are hanging out or something like that. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:51 | |
But usually, just by talking with the tour operators | 0:50:51 | 0:50:54 | |
and reminding them how sensitive some of these areas are, like for feeding or resting, | 0:50:54 | 0:50:59 | |
that usually brings people back into line with the code of conduct. | 0:50:59 | 0:51:02 | |
Obviously, some tour operators were worried that this programme might end their livelihoods. | 0:51:02 | 0:51:08 | |
-Has that happened? -I don't think so. | 0:51:08 | 0:51:10 | |
Several of the ones that joined back at the beginning are still in business and still going strong | 0:51:10 | 0:51:14 | |
and lots more operators have started in the last few years. | 0:51:14 | 0:51:18 | |
There's a perception that dolphins always want to spend time with us, | 0:51:18 | 0:51:21 | |
they're very social creatures. | 0:51:21 | 0:51:23 | |
They are quite sociable compared to, say, a lion or something, | 0:51:23 | 0:51:26 | |
but they do need their own time to feed and look after their young and to rest as well. | 0:51:26 | 0:51:30 | |
So the most important thing for recreational boat users to realise | 0:51:30 | 0:51:34 | |
is that they need to let the interactions be on the dolphins' | 0:51:34 | 0:51:37 | |
or the other animals' own terms. | 0:51:37 | 0:51:39 | |
So maybe approach to within 50 or 60 metres and then let the animals come to you the rest of the way. | 0:51:39 | 0:51:45 | |
If they leave, let them leave, cos they have something else to do. | 0:51:45 | 0:51:49 | |
-So reining in the human ego? -Maybe. | 0:51:49 | 0:51:52 | |
It is exciting sometimes to be with the animals, but yes, | 0:51:52 | 0:51:55 | |
just letting them have their space | 0:51:55 | 0:51:57 | |
to do their own natural behaviours as well, that's really important. | 0:51:57 | 0:52:01 | |
I was very lucky this morning. | 0:52:01 | 0:52:03 | |
We went to a beach, we saw some dolphins. It was fantastic. | 0:52:03 | 0:52:07 | |
So I've shared in that excitement. What can we see out here? | 0:52:07 | 0:52:11 | |
We're coming a bit further out into the Moray Firth now. | 0:52:11 | 0:52:13 | |
As you get further out, you start to see species like common dolphins. | 0:52:13 | 0:52:17 | |
We get minke whales up here. There's lots of places along the coastline | 0:52:17 | 0:52:21 | |
to see fantastic bird colonies. | 0:52:21 | 0:52:23 | |
And there's lots of other wildlife. Harbour porpoises, killer whales. | 0:52:23 | 0:52:28 | |
We've had all sorts of wildlife. | 0:52:28 | 0:52:30 | |
It really is a very rich, fantastic area for wildlife watching. | 0:52:30 | 0:52:33 | |
-Wow, what a variety. You've got your binoculars to hand. -I have. -Feeling lucky? -I hope so. | 0:52:33 | 0:52:38 | |
-It's a beautiful day for it. -Let's keep our eyes peeled. | 0:52:38 | 0:52:41 | |
If you see any splashes or birds circling, then have a look through the binoculars. | 0:52:45 | 0:52:49 | |
The temptation is to quickly glance round, but you see nothing. | 0:52:49 | 0:52:53 | |
If you've got dolphins, | 0:52:53 | 0:52:54 | |
they can be down for a few seconds or even a couple of minutes, | 0:52:54 | 0:52:57 | |
so it's good to do a slow scan one way, back the other way, looking for any birds or anything like that. | 0:52:57 | 0:53:04 | |
-Oh, that's a guillemot or something flying there. -Oh! | 0:53:09 | 0:53:11 | |
-You can see the short, staccato wing beats. -They've got really short wings. | 0:53:11 | 0:53:16 | |
Yes, they look like little round penguins, so they have quite short wing beats. | 0:53:16 | 0:53:20 | |
'There doesn't seem to be a lot out there today, | 0:53:23 | 0:53:26 | |
'but the sun is shining and it's a great way to appreciate this fantastic coastline.' | 0:53:26 | 0:53:32 | |
Well, I've seen a seal and a handful of guillemots, which is pretty good going. | 0:53:32 | 0:53:36 | |
But looking out to the North Sea here makes you realise just how incredible the Caledonian Canal is. | 0:53:36 | 0:53:41 | |
I mean, here, we've got the north-east coast of Scotland, | 0:53:41 | 0:53:44 | |
but it's linked to the Atlantic way over there to the west, | 0:53:44 | 0:53:48 | |
despite the indomitable mountains that seem to stand in the way. | 0:53:48 | 0:53:51 | |
Three stunning, natural lochs, linked up by a man-made canal, | 0:53:51 | 0:53:56 | |
have allowed me to make this absolutely amazing journey. | 0:53:56 | 0:54:00 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:54:12 | 0:54:15 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:54:15 | 0:54:17 |