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Today I'm on a journey | 0:00:19 | 0:00:20 | |
across Welsh mountain country, from here, | 0:00:20 | 0:00:23 | |
just north of Merthyr Tydfil, all the way | 0:00:23 | 0:00:25 | |
across the Brecon Beacons to Llandovery. | 0:00:25 | 0:00:29 | |
Along the way I'll be looking back at the best of the BBC's rural | 0:00:29 | 0:00:33 | |
programmes from this part of the world. Welcome to Country Tracks. | 0:00:33 | 0:00:38 | |
And what better way to start my journey | 0:00:49 | 0:00:51 | |
than on the Brecon Mountain Railway? | 0:00:51 | 0:00:53 | |
I'm here with Matt, the driver. | 0:00:53 | 0:00:55 | |
Matt, how long has this railway been here? | 0:00:55 | 0:00:57 | |
Well, the railway was opened in 1980. | 0:00:57 | 0:00:59 | |
It's built on the Brecon to Newport railway, | 0:00:59 | 0:01:02 | |
which was closed by Dr Beeching in the early '60s. | 0:01:02 | 0:01:04 | |
We managed to get some rail from the ex-MoD camps around the country | 0:01:04 | 0:01:08 | |
and we brought the track down here and re-laid it in these conditions up here. | 0:01:08 | 0:01:13 | |
What about the actual steam train here? | 0:01:13 | 0:01:15 | |
This locomotive was built in 1908, in Germany, | 0:01:15 | 0:01:19 | |
and it operated out there until the mid-'60s, | 0:01:19 | 0:01:22 | |
where again that railway out there was closed and we managed | 0:01:22 | 0:01:26 | |
to acquire this loco in the early '70s and brought it back to UK | 0:01:26 | 0:01:29 | |
and since then we've rebuilt it. | 0:01:29 | 0:01:31 | |
So can I have a quick... Do you trust me for a moment? | 0:01:31 | 0:01:34 | |
Yeah, I'm sure I trust you, yeah. | 0:01:34 | 0:01:36 | |
OK. So... | 0:01:36 | 0:01:37 | |
So, we're going a bit too quickly now. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:40 | |
Lift this up a little bit? | 0:01:40 | 0:01:41 | |
Tap it with your hand is easier. It's quite stiff. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:44 | |
Like that? | 0:01:44 | 0:01:46 | |
Yeah, keep going, keep going, keep going. OK. | 0:01:46 | 0:01:50 | |
Don't forget to tell me when I can blow the whistle! | 0:01:50 | 0:01:53 | |
-That's my favourite thing in the whole world. -OK! | 0:01:53 | 0:01:55 | |
I'm just a little boy really. Happy with this speed? | 0:01:55 | 0:01:59 | |
Yeah. OK, we're coming to a curve now. | 0:01:59 | 0:02:01 | |
-You can blow the whistle now if you like. -OK. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:04 | |
HOOT-HOOT! | 0:02:04 | 0:02:06 | |
There you go. Brilliant. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:07 | |
Made my day! The thing that amazes me about steam trains | 0:02:07 | 0:02:11 | |
is they're like living organisms, aren't they? | 0:02:11 | 0:02:14 | |
Once you've been involved with steam it never leaves you. It's in your blood. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:18 | |
It's quite noisy. Is that because it's oil? | 0:02:18 | 0:02:20 | |
That's right, yeah. You get a rumbling from the firebox, | 0:02:20 | 0:02:23 | |
whereas if we were coal-fired you wouldn't hear all this noise. | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
You'd just hear the noise of the loco itself and not the firing. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:30 | |
But we converted to oil because of the trees and the fire risk. | 0:02:30 | 0:02:34 | |
I'm assuming because it's oil you can't do that old trick | 0:02:34 | 0:02:37 | |
of cooking bacon in the furnace? | 0:02:37 | 0:02:39 | |
Unfortunately not, no. The fire box is sealed up so we can't do that. | 0:02:39 | 0:02:42 | |
Ah. And I have to say the views from here are spectacular. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:46 | |
You probably get used to it, doing this every day, but it's quite something. | 0:02:46 | 0:02:50 | |
The views are fantastic, aren't they? | 0:02:50 | 0:02:52 | |
I mean as you say, we probably take it for granted | 0:02:52 | 0:02:55 | |
but the general public who ride on the railway are taken aback by it all, yeah. | 0:02:55 | 0:03:00 | |
The landscape around here is astonishing. | 0:03:00 | 0:03:03 | |
We've got Brecon over that way and journey's end, Llandovery, is just over there. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:07 | |
Now in the first of two parts of classic Countryfile, | 0:03:07 | 0:03:11 | |
Adam Henson tries his hand at geese droving, Brecon-style. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:16 | |
It's a common myth that the American Wild West is the only home of the cowboy, | 0:03:16 | 0:03:21 | |
but it's the Welsh who are the original cowboys. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:25 | |
Known as drovers, these boozy bandit fighting womanisers walked their animals | 0:03:27 | 0:03:32 | |
hundreds of miles across the British countryside for a millennia. | 0:03:32 | 0:03:38 | |
With 40 geese, I'm going to attempt | 0:03:38 | 0:03:40 | |
to follow one of South Wales' droving trails. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:43 | |
Whilst cattle droving is well known, walking birds is nowadays unheard of | 0:03:43 | 0:03:47 | |
but the popularity of the Christmas goose saw thousands of birds | 0:03:47 | 0:03:51 | |
being walked to market every winter. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:53 | |
I have just three days to get 40 geese 12 miles across the Welsh hills. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:56 | |
No-one knows if I'll make it. | 0:03:56 | 0:03:59 | |
Before we start we've gathered at an old gold mine, | 0:03:59 | 0:04:02 | |
where Peter, our veterinary consultant, can check the birds. | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
How are they looking? Do you think they're ready for a long walk? | 0:04:06 | 0:04:09 | |
Yeah, I think they're very good and I'm very glad to hear | 0:04:09 | 0:04:12 | |
that they're just over a year old | 0:04:12 | 0:04:14 | |
because the bones are properly formed, | 0:04:14 | 0:04:17 | |
so they're quite able to walk and they have been kept out of doors, | 0:04:17 | 0:04:20 | |
so they're in good, what we'd call, hard condition. | 0:04:20 | 0:04:24 | |
Our journey is taking place in South Wales | 0:04:24 | 0:04:27 | |
along a well-trodden drovers path. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:29 | |
From the gold mine we'll take small roads to the village of Caio, | 0:04:29 | 0:04:33 | |
then it's up through the forest onto the open moorland, where we'll camp. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:36 | |
Day two looks tough. We need to cross the moor before nightfall | 0:04:36 | 0:04:40 | |
and get to our accommodation at the pub in Cilycwm. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:43 | |
On the last day I must get to Llandovery, | 0:04:43 | 0:04:45 | |
Wales' most famous droving town. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:48 | |
We're setting off now. Bring 'em on, Maud. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:53 | |
In drovers' times long-distance travel was rare | 0:04:53 | 0:04:57 | |
so the gentry would get the drovers | 0:04:57 | 0:04:58 | |
to carry letters, trading documents and goods | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
and in my bag I'm carrying a letter for the mayor of Llandovery, | 0:05:01 | 0:05:05 | |
a letter of thanks to give her when we arrive. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:08 | |
Come on, Maud, bring 'em on. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:09 | |
As a farmer, I'm used to herding cows and sheep but not really geese. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:18 | |
I'm nervous one of the birds might get lost or injured | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
but Maud's a brilliant working collie | 0:05:21 | 0:05:23 | |
and she doesn't seem fazed by her unusual charges. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:25 | |
We're soon moving at a slow but steady pace. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:30 | |
Hello, Adam. How are you? Enjoying it? | 0:05:30 | 0:05:33 | |
Yeah, it's great actually. | 0:05:33 | 0:05:35 | |
The geese are well-behaved, the dog is doing a good job. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:38 | |
Jolly good. | 0:05:38 | 0:05:39 | |
I'm doing all the droving alone but historian Richard Moore-Colyer | 0:05:39 | 0:05:43 | |
will weave in and out of my route to help me understand the droving world. | 0:05:43 | 0:05:48 | |
When was all this droving going on then? | 0:05:48 | 0:05:50 | |
We have ample evidence of droving being carried out | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
from Saxon times if not earlier than that, | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
but the heyday of droving would have been from the 16th century | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
through until the end of the 19th. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:00 | |
And why were they doing it? | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
You have to remember that in Wales in particular until really | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
the end of the 19th century pasture quality was very, very poor indeed. | 0:06:05 | 0:06:09 | |
It was virtually impossible to fatten cattle and sheep on the grassland of Wales | 0:06:09 | 0:06:13 | |
and the result was this trade developed whereby lean cattle, store cattle as we call them, | 0:06:13 | 0:06:18 | |
were taken to the richer pasturelands of England, fattened there | 0:06:18 | 0:06:22 | |
-then sold on to the metropolitan markets in Britain. -Is it unusual to drove geese? | 0:06:22 | 0:06:26 | |
Not in the least, no, no. | 0:06:26 | 0:06:27 | |
Geese certainly from the Carmarthenshire area around Caio, | 0:06:27 | 0:06:31 | |
would have been driven to Llandovery, | 0:06:31 | 0:06:33 | |
to the markets, particularly for the Christmas markets. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
Are we following an old drovers road? | 0:06:36 | 0:06:38 | |
Yes, we are. Much of this area was honeycombed with drovers roads. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:42 | |
Many of them coalescing on Llandovery | 0:06:42 | 0:06:44 | |
and eventually working their way into England. | 0:06:44 | 0:06:47 | |
Drovers of old would walk hundreds of birds around 12 miles per day. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:51 | |
We've gone just two miles so far and I've already got a straggler. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:55 | |
She's my favourite and I've nicknamed her Jemima. | 0:06:55 | 0:06:59 | |
We stop to rest and get a vet check. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:01 | |
I think they've got on very well indeed. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
The weather has been kind for them. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:05 | |
The road hasn't been too flinty and rough. | 0:07:05 | 0:07:09 | |
Interesting that they rest for about 20 minutes, | 0:07:09 | 0:07:12 | |
then they come to life again spontaneously. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:15 | |
A short break then back on the road. | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
It's going quite well so far. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:32 | |
The geese are quite calm and the weather is lovely. Very pleasant. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:36 | |
And then the rain comes pouring down. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:38 | |
In four hours we've gone just two miles. | 0:07:38 | 0:07:43 | |
Go on, geese. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:46 | |
# Sitting on my own | 0:07:56 | 0:07:59 | |
# Chewing on a bone | 0:07:59 | 0:08:01 | |
# A thousand million miles from home... # | 0:08:01 | 0:08:07 | |
The first day has been a lot harder than I imagined. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
It's now half past six, quarter to seven, | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
and we're still quite a way off from the camp. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:16 | |
But we'll get there soon. | 0:08:16 | 0:08:18 | |
The enclosed forests and constant rain has left us all tired. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:24 | |
The geese try to use the puddles to preen their feathers | 0:08:24 | 0:08:27 | |
but they just get muddy. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:29 | |
He's getting on pretty well, he's making good progress. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:45 | |
He's gone through the rushes and marram grass and he's coming across the open moor. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:49 | |
The geese look well, he looks well, if a little wet. | 0:08:49 | 0:08:52 | |
# Sitting on my own | 0:08:59 | 0:09:02 | |
# Chewing on a bone | 0:09:02 | 0:09:04 | |
# A thousand million miles from home | 0:09:04 | 0:09:10 | |
# When something hears me... # | 0:09:10 | 0:09:16 | |
Is this typical drovers' food then, Richard? | 0:09:16 | 0:09:19 | |
Well I guess it is, yes. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:20 | |
A haunch of bread, a piece of cheese, the odd onion. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
Would they bite into raw onions like this? | 0:09:23 | 0:09:26 | |
They'd probably slice them, it'd depend on the drover. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:28 | |
So what about the dangers of sleeping out? | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
Well for anyone to sleep out in the countryside in the 18th and 19th century was pretty dangerous. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:37 | |
Footpads of course lurked by the wayside, | 0:09:37 | 0:09:40 | |
highwaymen were fairly common, | 0:09:40 | 0:09:42 | |
and you took a fair bit of risk when you slept out, | 0:09:42 | 0:09:44 | |
particularly in these locations such as we're in at the moment. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:48 | |
I reckon we'll be pretty safe up here tonight, won't we? | 0:09:48 | 0:09:51 | |
Well, you've got to watch out for the foxes and the geese, | 0:09:51 | 0:09:54 | |
but beyond that you're pretty safe. The locals are pretty quiet. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:57 | |
Let's have a little drink to that. | 0:09:57 | 0:09:59 | |
Why not, here here. Try some of this excellent mead. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
With darkness creeping in I tackle my last job, | 0:10:02 | 0:10:05 | |
creating a shelter for the geese. | 0:10:05 | 0:10:07 | |
MOBILE PHONE RINGS | 0:10:07 | 0:10:09 | |
Adam speaking. | 0:10:09 | 0:10:10 | |
Dad, I'll have to phone you back. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:12 | |
I'm in the middle of erecting a tent on the moor for my geese. | 0:10:12 | 0:10:16 | |
The geese seem happy with their new home. | 0:10:16 | 0:10:19 | |
I'm shattered. All I want is a soft, warm bed. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:23 | |
There's just a couple of us left up here | 0:10:23 | 0:10:25 | |
looking after the geese during the night. | 0:10:25 | 0:10:28 | |
We're camping out, but it's cold and wet | 0:10:28 | 0:10:30 | |
and fairly eerie up here on the moor. | 0:10:30 | 0:10:32 | |
My main concern is that foxes may move in | 0:10:32 | 0:10:34 | |
for a bit of a midnight feast on the geese. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:37 | |
I just hope they're all going to be there in the morning. | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
Good night. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:42 | |
I'm steaming through the Brecon Beacons National Park | 0:10:48 | 0:10:52 | |
and pulling to a stop at Pontsticill. | 0:10:52 | 0:10:54 | |
HOOT! | 0:10:56 | 0:10:59 | |
OK, we're just approaching the platform now. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:05 | |
You can apply the brakes in a minute. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:07 | |
-OK. -We just need to close the throttle fully now, close that fully. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:10 | |
-Pull it down? -All the way up. -All the way up. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:13 | |
Close it, that's it closed now. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:14 | |
We've reached the end of the line and it's time for me to start walking. | 0:11:14 | 0:11:20 | |
Thanks very much, guys. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:22 | |
Well, it's not every day you find yourself marooned in one of Britain's wildest National Parks, | 0:11:22 | 0:11:28 | |
but luckily there's a warden on hand to accompany me on the next leg of my adventure. | 0:11:28 | 0:11:32 | |
Alan, how are you? Thanks so much for coming along. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:35 | |
Fantastic weather, a bit of snow. | 0:11:35 | 0:11:37 | |
It does help, all sorts of weather here. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:39 | |
Area manager Alan Ward gave up a job in the oil industry | 0:11:39 | 0:11:43 | |
in south-east Asia to make a career in the mountains 21 years ago. | 0:11:43 | 0:11:47 | |
And since then, he's never looked back. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:49 | |
So what for you is so special about this National Park, | 0:11:49 | 0:11:52 | |
this part of the world? | 0:11:52 | 0:11:54 | |
The scenery, the landscape, the people who live and work here, | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
the farming community we get on very well with | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
and the fact that my job as area manager every day is different. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
I assume you must spend a lot of time out and about walking in these hills? | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
I wish I could spend more time out in the hills walking. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:12 | |
I am sometimes at a desk in HQ. | 0:12:12 | 0:12:15 | |
Obviously the Brecon Beacons are famous for their changeable weather? | 0:12:15 | 0:12:19 | |
Very changeable. It's always best to be prepared before you go out in the hills. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:23 | |
OK. Where are we heading for today? | 0:12:23 | 0:12:25 | |
Into the central Beacons, one of the most spectacular parts | 0:12:25 | 0:12:28 | |
-with big open spaces, big summits and plenty of space. -Lead the way. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:32 | |
And one of those summits is Pen y Fan, the highest mountain in southern Britain. | 0:12:35 | 0:12:40 | |
But true to form the Brecon Beacons treated us to a staggering display | 0:12:40 | 0:12:44 | |
of changeable weather, from winter wonderland to very soggy land. | 0:12:44 | 0:12:49 | |
Well, the Brecon Beacons are notorious for their weather | 0:12:51 | 0:12:54 | |
and looking ahead, it's not looking too good, so Alan's gone ahead. | 0:12:54 | 0:12:58 | |
He's got a weather forecast and I'm going to find out what the plan is. Hi, Alan. | 0:12:58 | 0:13:02 | |
-Hello, Ben. -So a little bit rainy. -It certainly is. | 0:13:02 | 0:13:05 | |
Have we got a forecast here? | 0:13:05 | 0:13:06 | |
I've produced the current forecast for the day. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:09 | |
It's a site specific mountain weather forecast for the Brecon Beacons, | 0:13:09 | 0:13:13 | |
that's what we all should refer to before we plan a walk on a hill. | 0:13:13 | 0:13:16 | |
All I can see is heavy rain, snow, hill fog, gales, wind chill! | 0:13:16 | 0:13:20 | |
And the only thing missing is the sunshine! | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
I don't think that's coming today. | 0:13:23 | 0:13:24 | |
So what do you think our chances are of getting to the top in the time we have? | 0:13:24 | 0:13:28 | |
If I was here by myself, Ben, I'd be looking at this, I'd have looked at the forecast at home, | 0:13:28 | 0:13:34 | |
maybe stuck my head out of the window and I really would think, | 0:13:34 | 0:13:37 | |
well, why would I want to come up here on a day like today? | 0:13:37 | 0:13:40 | |
We have to be responsible. Coming out in bad weather, accidents can happen causing inconvenience. | 0:13:40 | 0:13:45 | |
The mountain rescue team would have to and assist us off, so I'd save this for another day. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:50 | |
OK, I've got to get to Llandovery, is there another way apart from going over Pen y Fan? | 0:13:50 | 0:13:55 | |
We can look for a lowland route that wouldn't go much above 500 metres altitude, | 0:13:55 | 0:13:59 | |
so there are plenty of options. | 0:13:59 | 0:14:01 | |
-So we can stay below the cloud cover? -We certainly can. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:03 | |
-OK. Shall we go and look at the maps? -OK then. -OK, this way. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:07 | |
Thwarted by heavy rain, freezing temperatures and low cloud cover, | 0:14:10 | 0:14:15 | |
we've altered our route to take us west of Pen y Fan | 0:14:15 | 0:14:18 | |
to a secret destination. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:21 | |
It's a bit of a disappointment we haven't made it up Pen y Fan today, | 0:14:21 | 0:14:25 | |
but Alan here promises me we're going somewhere even better! | 0:14:25 | 0:14:28 | |
You'll be amazed when we get down to the site I'm taking you to. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
Really? I've been to the Brecon Beacons before but never to this part. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:35 | |
I've worked here 21 years. I haven't seen it all yet. | 0:14:35 | 0:14:38 | |
-Really? -So... | 0:14:38 | 0:14:40 | |
And even in this weather it's going to be worth it? | 0:14:40 | 0:14:42 | |
It'll be better in this weather. | 0:14:42 | 0:14:44 | |
I'm going to hold you to that. | 0:14:44 | 0:14:45 | |
OK, I promise. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:48 | |
I'll prove to you there's something for everybody to enjoy in the National Park. | 0:14:59 | 0:15:03 | |
-Whatever the weather. -Whatever the weather. -Missing Pen y Fan. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:07 | |
Oh, wow! | 0:15:07 | 0:15:09 | |
Yes, it's in good flow today. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:20 | |
That's absolutely incredible. | 0:15:20 | 0:15:22 | |
You can see a couple of people walking behind it? | 0:15:22 | 0:15:24 | |
You can go behind it? | 0:15:24 | 0:15:25 | |
The footpath goes right behind the waterfall and it's a good day for it. | 0:15:25 | 0:15:30 | |
How amazing! I've never seen a waterfall this size in the UK. | 0:15:30 | 0:15:33 | |
We don't tell everybody, but they'll know now! | 0:15:33 | 0:15:36 | |
-This is a real secret isn't it? -It certainly is, a real gem. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:39 | |
-What's it called? -Sgwd Yr Eira. | 0:15:39 | 0:15:41 | |
-What does that mean? -Fall of snow. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:43 | |
-Fall of snow? -Because of the whiteness coming over when the river's in flood. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:47 | |
We've got another little waterfall here, all of the cliff. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:50 | |
A very wet hillside, filling this stream. | 0:15:50 | 0:15:54 | |
It does look magnificent today. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:56 | |
Absolutely incredible. | 0:15:56 | 0:15:59 | |
I hope you're up for coming behind it. | 0:15:59 | 0:16:02 | |
Absolutely. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:03 | |
So, basically, the fact that all this rain has been falling has benefited us? | 0:16:14 | 0:16:20 | |
It certainly has. What worked against us in our attempt to get up Pen y Fan this morning | 0:16:20 | 0:16:24 | |
has definitely worked to our advantage here today. | 0:16:24 | 0:16:27 | |
Are there many other waterfalls in this part of the National Park? | 0:16:27 | 0:16:31 | |
Five or six other really impressive falls | 0:16:31 | 0:16:33 | |
that can be linked on a six-hour circular walk. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
Where does this path go now? | 0:16:36 | 0:16:38 | |
It goes right behind me, right behind the waterfall. | 0:16:38 | 0:16:40 | |
-Underneath the waterfall? -Right behind it. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:43 | |
That's like the film Last Of The Mohicans. Exactly. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:46 | |
My chance to be an actor. | 0:16:46 | 0:16:49 | |
Absolutely. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:50 | |
-I'll follow you, then. -OK, then. | 0:16:50 | 0:16:52 | |
-Are you sure it's safe? -Yeah. | 0:16:52 | 0:16:54 | |
Wow! | 0:16:59 | 0:17:01 | |
-I don't think I've walked underneath a waterfall before. -Really? | 0:17:07 | 0:17:11 | |
Wow, I'm certainly seeing the extreme side of the Brecon Beacons. | 0:17:22 | 0:17:28 | |
Adam Henson, however, took a more leisurely approach. | 0:17:28 | 0:17:30 | |
He also had a bit of sunshine. | 0:17:30 | 0:17:33 | |
The dramatic Welsh mountains, home to male-voice choirs... | 0:17:41 | 0:17:45 | |
THEY SING | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
..thousands of sheep... | 0:17:49 | 0:17:52 | |
..the occasional rugby player... | 0:17:52 | 0:17:54 | |
CHEERING | 0:17:54 | 0:17:57 | |
..and some of the toughest horses in the world. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:00 | |
Over the next two days, I'm taking on the challenge of riding on horseback for 17 miles, | 0:18:00 | 0:18:05 | |
starting at the Brecon Beacons National Park. | 0:18:05 | 0:18:08 | |
-Hi. -Hi there. -How are you doing? | 0:18:08 | 0:18:10 | |
Nice to see you. Is this my charger for the day? | 0:18:10 | 0:18:12 | |
Yes, this is Murphy. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:14 | |
Is Murphy a good horse? | 0:18:14 | 0:18:15 | |
He's lovely, yeah. As all the Welsh cobs are, | 0:18:15 | 0:18:18 | |
he's nice and and sensible. Safe, steady, but will go all day for you. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:21 | |
Great. | 0:18:26 | 0:18:28 | |
The Radnor Forest Ride joins the Three Rivers Ride | 0:18:36 | 0:18:39 | |
in the Welsh Brecon Beacons and the Jack Mytton Way in Shropshire. | 0:18:39 | 0:18:42 | |
Of the newly created 70-mile route, | 0:18:42 | 0:18:45 | |
I'm planning to take on the first 17 miles | 0:18:45 | 0:18:47 | |
from the Brecon Beacons National Park to Upper Chapel. | 0:18:47 | 0:18:50 | |
-It's a wonderful ride, isn't it? -Amazing scenery. | 0:18:50 | 0:18:53 | |
A lovely route. You've got mountains all the way over | 0:18:53 | 0:18:56 | |
it's fantastic round here. You can see why it's so popular. | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
It's one of the best riding areas in the country. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:02 | |
There we go, Murphy. Look, you can have a drink. | 0:19:02 | 0:19:04 | |
I've never been in the saddle longer than an hour before, | 0:19:12 | 0:19:15 | |
so two days up and down the Welsh hills will be a challenge. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:18 | |
Seems to go into a farmyard here. | 0:19:18 | 0:19:20 | |
The route provides good variety, | 0:19:20 | 0:19:22 | |
we're soon out onto the country lanes. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:24 | |
I'm one of the first to try out this newly mapped-out ride. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:28 | |
It joins up existing bridleways via public roads and permissive access across private land. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
A drink there for you, Henry. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:34 | |
-There we go. -We enjoyed the hospitality of locals, | 0:19:35 | 0:19:38 | |
who were only too willing to provide buckets of water for our thirsty steeds. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:42 | |
-That was lovely. Thank you for that. -Thank you. Isn't that lovely? | 0:19:42 | 0:19:46 | |
Amazing, yeah. Fantastic. | 0:19:46 | 0:19:48 | |
Do you think we're going the right way, Henry? | 0:19:55 | 0:19:57 | |
It seems like a bit of a building site. | 0:19:57 | 0:19:59 | |
It looks that way, doesn't it? | 0:19:59 | 0:20:01 | |
-Well, the route goes up there. -There's a house in the way. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:05 | |
There's a house in the way and the gate's blocked with topsoil. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:08 | |
Well, we'll just drop back down, | 0:20:08 | 0:20:10 | |
come up on the side and rejoin it just round the edge. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:14 | |
So, where do you reckon now? | 0:20:14 | 0:20:15 | |
What do you think, Murphy? We're in another farmyard. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:18 | |
Well, we've found our way, round from the other farmyard. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:27 | |
Looks like we're venturing off into the woods, possibly. | 0:20:27 | 0:20:31 | |
Or maybe not. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:34 | |
We're not lost after all. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:36 | |
Oh, no. Never lost. Just temporarily mislaid. | 0:20:36 | 0:20:40 | |
Amazing scenery. | 0:20:40 | 0:20:42 | |
Beautiful Brecon Beacons. | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
Once you've completed a hard, long day riding, | 0:20:45 | 0:20:47 | |
you want a good bed and stables for your horse. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:49 | |
I suppose it's very important, looking after the animal that's been looking after you all day. | 0:20:49 | 0:20:54 | |
Very much so. Give him a good wash off. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:57 | |
It's 10:30 at night and I've just come out to check the horses. | 0:20:57 | 0:21:00 | |
Murphy's looking well, fit and healthy. | 0:21:00 | 0:21:03 | |
Not looking as stiff as me. | 0:21:03 | 0:21:05 | |
It's 7 in the morning and I've got up and had a shower and a shave. | 0:21:06 | 0:21:10 | |
You know, I don't feel too bad. | 0:21:10 | 0:21:12 | |
A little bit achy, but looking forward to my next day. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:15 | |
I hope Murphy's up for it. | 0:21:15 | 0:21:17 | |
Good boy. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:19 | |
Thank you very much. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:21 | |
Fantastic. Very comfortable for both horse and rider. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:25 | |
I was about to start the second leg of my journey | 0:21:25 | 0:21:27 | |
eight miles north, to Upper Chapel. | 0:21:27 | 0:21:29 | |
It was great to be back in the saddle. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:33 | |
Around 2.5 million people enjoy riding in the UK each year. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:37 | |
But only 20% of public rights of way are open to horses. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:41 | |
Oh, just canter. | 0:21:44 | 0:21:46 | |
It's lovely to be up on the tops now. The scenery is spectacular. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:55 | |
It's great to have a bit of a canter. Murphy's on top form. | 0:21:55 | 0:21:58 | |
Come on. Go on, Murphy. | 0:22:11 | 0:22:13 | |
We kicked on the pace and quickly made our way to the highest point | 0:22:15 | 0:22:19 | |
of our journey, up along the main ridge. | 0:22:19 | 0:22:21 | |
We've reached the trig point at the top of the hill. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:27 | |
Magnificent scenery from up here. | 0:22:27 | 0:22:29 | |
We've been getting a little bit behind on time, | 0:22:29 | 0:22:31 | |
so we're gonna have a quick sandwich and then press on. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:35 | |
Some for me. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:39 | |
'I'd been stung by a hornet and covered in horseflies. | 0:22:44 | 0:22:48 | |
'And I think Murphy was beginning to suspect that I wasn't such a great | 0:22:48 | 0:22:52 | |
'rider after all. | 0:22:52 | 0:22:53 | |
'But the end was in sight.' | 0:22:53 | 0:22:55 | |
Two days in the saddle! | 0:23:07 | 0:23:10 | |
Across from the Brecon Beacons for about 17 miles. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:14 | |
And I've got a very sore behind. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:16 | |
But it was absolutely wonderful. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:18 | |
-BEN FOGLE: -My Welsh mountain journey started at Merthyr Tydfil, on the southern edge | 0:23:24 | 0:23:29 | |
of the Brecon Beacons and I've made my way deep into the National Park. | 0:23:29 | 0:23:33 | |
The Brecon Beacons have thrown every bit of weather in my direction. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:37 | |
Snow-capped mountains, raging rivers and pelting rain. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:41 | |
But just maybe, I've proven myself, | 0:23:41 | 0:23:44 | |
because the sun is finally poking through the clouds. | 0:23:44 | 0:23:47 | |
You really can have four seasons in one day. | 0:23:47 | 0:23:49 | |
And whatever the weather, the Brecon Beacons really | 0:23:49 | 0:23:52 | |
are a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. | 0:23:52 | 0:23:54 | |
I've camped and hiked these hills many times. | 0:23:54 | 0:23:57 | |
But there's one side of the National Park | 0:23:57 | 0:24:00 | |
that many people don't get to see. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:02 | |
And that's the working farmland. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
My travel companion is National Park area manager Alan Ward. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:10 | |
So, obviously the National Park shares a lot of its land | 0:24:10 | 0:24:13 | |
with working farms. How does that relationship work? | 0:24:13 | 0:24:16 | |
National Park staff work very closely with the farming community. | 0:24:16 | 0:24:20 | |
And it's a good relationship, is it? | 0:24:20 | 0:24:23 | |
I think so. I go to meetings and I know most of the farmers there. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:26 | |
My daughter's married into a local farming family. So I have good connections, so to speak. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:31 | |
Presumably, they're important to the upkeep of the National Park? | 0:24:31 | 0:24:34 | |
They are. The National Park can't manage | 0:24:34 | 0:24:37 | |
this area without a partnership concept, with local farmers particularly. | 0:24:37 | 0:24:41 | |
Obviously this region was particularly badly affected | 0:24:41 | 0:24:45 | |
during the Foot And Mouth outbreak back in 2001. | 0:24:45 | 0:24:48 | |
What are your memories of that time? | 0:24:48 | 0:24:49 | |
My memories of that time are lots of meetings with the farming community | 0:24:49 | 0:24:53 | |
to decide on the best course of action, how we could assist. | 0:24:53 | 0:24:56 | |
We have staff with Land Rovers and other vehicles. | 0:24:56 | 0:24:59 | |
Most of the public footpaths were closed. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:01 | |
At key honeypot sites, we ensured people weren't... | 0:25:01 | 0:25:05 | |
breaking the restrictions and going onto the open hill. | 0:25:05 | 0:25:08 | |
A pretty bleak period for everyone involved. | 0:25:08 | 0:25:10 | |
It was. Tourism suffered, as well as farming. It was a difficult time. | 0:25:10 | 0:25:13 | |
Obviously part of this landscape is sheep, people and things. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:18 | |
During that period, it must have been absolutely empty? | 0:25:18 | 0:25:21 | |
It was like a ghost town. Ghost town countryside. On the hills, | 0:25:21 | 0:25:25 | |
you can always see little blobs of little white sheep up there. | 0:25:25 | 0:25:28 | |
There was nothing. You'd drive past vast fields like we're looking up now and they would be empty. | 0:25:28 | 0:25:32 | |
There would be very few people, very few cars on the road, no tourists. It was a difficult time. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:38 | |
A cull of 4,000 sheep in the Brecon Beacons will go ahead tomorrow. | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
A further 6,000 face tests for Foot And Mouth disease | 0:25:47 | 0:25:50 | |
over the next few days. | 0:25:50 | 0:25:51 | |
More sheep have been slaughtered in the Brecon Beacons to fight against Foot And Mouth. | 0:25:53 | 0:25:57 | |
Foot And Mouth hit Britain in February 2001. | 0:25:57 | 0:26:01 | |
And by April, the highly contagious disease had reached the Brecon Beacons. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:05 | |
More than 100,000 sheep were slaughtered across Powys that summer. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:09 | |
The crisis lasted 11 months and cost | 0:26:09 | 0:26:11 | |
the UK's farming and tourist industry more than £5 billion. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:17 | |
Local farmer Edwin Harris saw his entire flock of 1,000 sheep slaughtered. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:21 | |
I'm on my way to meet him. | 0:26:21 | 0:26:24 | |
But first, we go back to 2001 when he spoke to Countryfile. | 0:26:24 | 0:26:29 | |
The Brecon Beacons, almost a sheep-free zone | 0:26:29 | 0:26:32 | |
and the latest casualty of a Foot And Mouth crisis which just won't go away. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:38 | |
These hills have had a lot of attention over the past few days. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:42 | |
That's because of a cull of 4,000 sheep, | 0:26:42 | 0:26:44 | |
which farmers say is unnecessary and hugely expensive. | 0:26:44 | 0:26:48 | |
Sheep which usually roam freely on the Brecons have been gathered in and blood-tested. | 0:26:48 | 0:26:53 | |
Some have been exposed to Foot And Mouth, so a cull's going ahead, while more are rounded up for testing. | 0:26:53 | 0:26:58 | |
Farmers whose sheep graze these hills | 0:26:58 | 0:27:00 | |
are unhappy with the extent and the expense of the cull. | 0:27:00 | 0:27:04 | |
Edwin Harris, who represents them, is still tidying up after his own sheep were slaughtered. | 0:27:04 | 0:27:09 | |
If the government is concerned about the cost of the clean-up operation, | 0:27:09 | 0:27:13 | |
plus the cost of buying everything | 0:27:13 | 0:27:15 | |
that is included in that operation, you've got to remember | 0:27:15 | 0:27:18 | |
that we could vaccinate everything for 50p a sheep. | 0:27:18 | 0:27:21 | |
And in three weeks' time, tourists could go back | 0:27:21 | 0:27:24 | |
on the mountains, we could be back in business with all our stock intact, | 0:27:24 | 0:27:28 | |
at no more expense to the government. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:30 | |
Ironically, perhaps, the Welsh Assembly announced its | 0:27:30 | 0:27:33 | |
Foot And Mouth recovery package just as the disease re-emerged. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:37 | |
But Welsh ministers seem remarkably unconcerned about the cost of the latest cull. | 0:27:37 | 0:27:42 | |
It doesn't cost the Assembly anything. It's paid for by DEFRA. | 0:27:42 | 0:27:46 | |
-How much will it cost DEFRA? -I couldn't tell you. | 0:27:46 | 0:27:48 | |
It's a matter for their budget. | 0:27:48 | 0:27:51 | |
Wouldn't it be cheaper, above anything else, to vaccinate? | 0:27:51 | 0:27:54 | |
If we vaccinated in Wales, we would lose our export market for good. | 0:27:54 | 0:27:58 | |
We'd end up with bankruptcies amongst our hill farmers. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:01 | |
The only market they've got is the export market. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:04 | |
Added to that, it doesn't work. If vaccination was a viable option, we'd have done it by now. | 0:28:04 | 0:28:09 | |
But despite the slaughter of more than 3 million animals, | 0:28:09 | 0:28:12 | |
the disease isn't yet beaten. Until it is, farmers can't export. | 0:28:12 | 0:28:16 | |
Losing that market has halved the price of lambs in Wales. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:19 | |
Sheep in Cumbria and Yorkshire are now being blood-tested. | 0:28:19 | 0:28:22 | |
There are warnings that'll mean more slaughter at yet more expense. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:26 | |
It's quite manifest by the outbreak in the Beacons that | 0:28:26 | 0:28:28 | |
there is widespread disease within the sheep population. | 0:28:28 | 0:28:32 | |
It could well be that the same exists in Yorkshire | 0:28:32 | 0:28:34 | |
and the Lake District and so on. | 0:28:34 | 0:28:36 | |
And until the blood-testing is carried out, the vets and | 0:28:36 | 0:28:39 | |
scientists won't know how far the and disease has gone. | 0:28:39 | 0:28:42 | |
So the tail is enormous. We're looking well into the autumn and winter, possibly 2002. | 0:28:42 | 0:28:46 | |
The tail is almost longer and has more impact than the outbreak of the disease to start with. | 0:28:46 | 0:28:51 | |
So far, Foot And Mouth has cost us, | 0:28:53 | 0:28:55 | |
British taxpayers, more than £1 billion. | 0:28:55 | 0:28:58 | |
This week, the government closed the chequebook, halting the disinfection | 0:28:58 | 0:29:02 | |
of farms after realising just how much it was costing. | 0:29:02 | 0:29:05 | |
Contractors on Edwin Harris's farm were ordered off, though they're | 0:29:05 | 0:29:08 | |
only halfway through the job. | 0:29:08 | 0:29:10 | |
He's no idea when - or if - they'll be back. | 0:29:10 | 0:29:13 | |
We've got sheds with the sides ripped off, floors ripped up. | 0:29:13 | 0:29:16 | |
Someone has to pay and come back and replace them. | 0:29:16 | 0:29:19 | |
And...I don't see why I should pay for that. | 0:29:19 | 0:29:23 | |
Yes, it's my business. But it is not my choice the sheep went. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:26 | |
They could have been vaccinated and protected. | 0:29:26 | 0:29:29 | |
It's not just those who've lost animals who are, | 0:29:29 | 0:29:32 | |
like the taxpayer, counting the cost. | 0:29:32 | 0:29:34 | |
There's been no Foot And Mouth on this farm near Welshpool. | 0:29:34 | 0:29:37 | |
But it's three kilometres from an outbreak and has been under restriction since April. | 0:29:37 | 0:29:42 | |
The movement of cattle and sheep, even from one field to another, | 0:29:42 | 0:29:45 | |
has been limited and they can only be sold for slaughter. | 0:29:45 | 0:29:48 | |
Business is at a standstill. Had the farm got Foot And Mouth, | 0:29:48 | 0:29:51 | |
there'd have been compensation for the animals killed. | 0:29:51 | 0:29:54 | |
Farmers who fall outside these compensation schemes | 0:29:54 | 0:29:57 | |
feel abandoned by the government. | 0:29:57 | 0:29:59 | |
Though John Yeomans stresses he wouldn't want to change places | 0:29:59 | 0:30:03 | |
with anyone who's seen their stock slaughtered. | 0:30:03 | 0:30:05 | |
We're just deserted. Our borrowing's have gone up about 25,000. | 0:30:05 | 0:30:09 | |
We've been very fortunate of the support of the bank. | 0:30:09 | 0:30:11 | |
Without that, I don't know what we'd have done. | 0:30:11 | 0:30:14 | |
But the stress that we and the stock have been under | 0:30:14 | 0:30:16 | |
because they've been confined, has been horrendous. | 0:30:16 | 0:30:19 | |
The politicians or the people in MAFF or DEFRA, as it now is, | 0:30:19 | 0:30:22 | |
can have any concept of what we've been going through. | 0:30:22 | 0:30:25 | |
The National Audit Office is investigating the amount | 0:30:26 | 0:30:29 | |
the government spent on Foot And Mouth to see if it's getting value for money. | 0:30:29 | 0:30:33 | |
There is a feeling that some farmers have been | 0:30:33 | 0:30:36 | |
over-compensated for lost stock. But Edwin Harris says it's wrong | 0:30:36 | 0:30:39 | |
to see the payments farmers in his position have had as compensation. | 0:30:39 | 0:30:43 | |
Because of the timing of this cull, which is June, | 0:30:43 | 0:30:46 | |
I won't be able to replace | 0:30:46 | 0:30:48 | |
my stock until January. So I won't be able to buy ewes in the autumn, | 0:30:48 | 0:30:52 | |
so I won't have any lambs next spring. | 0:30:52 | 0:30:54 | |
In other words, the next lamb crop I'll sell off this farm | 0:30:54 | 0:30:57 | |
will be two years this autumn, in two years' time. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:00 | |
So, when you're talking compensation, who's compensating me | 0:31:00 | 0:31:03 | |
to keep my family and everything ticking over tidy for two years? | 0:31:03 | 0:31:07 | |
And it could take a lot longer for flocks | 0:31:07 | 0:31:10 | |
to be re-established on the hills. | 0:31:10 | 0:31:12 | |
The problems in the Beacons have coincided with serious | 0:31:12 | 0:31:15 | |
concerns about the cost of this crisis to the taxpayer. | 0:31:15 | 0:31:18 | |
In some other countries, farmers pay into an insurance scheme. | 0:31:18 | 0:31:21 | |
Here, the eventual bill for Foot And Mouth | 0:31:21 | 0:31:24 | |
is expected to be more than £2 billion. | 0:31:24 | 0:31:26 | |
It's a very large amount of money. | 0:31:26 | 0:31:28 | |
I think there will be difficulties in the future. | 0:31:28 | 0:31:31 | |
If we have an outbreak like this again, | 0:31:31 | 0:31:33 | |
there'd be difficulties in terms of the public perception, | 0:31:33 | 0:31:36 | |
of our carcass disposal, of cullings and so forth. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:39 | |
We must think very carefully as to who in future should pay for it, | 0:31:39 | 0:31:42 | |
whether there should be a compulsory insurance scheme perhaps and so on. | 0:31:42 | 0:31:46 | |
Sadly, the one thing we can't do, | 0:31:46 | 0:31:48 | |
is guarantee that Foot And Mouth will never come back. | 0:31:48 | 0:31:51 | |
And it'll be a while yet before we can guarantee that it's gone away. | 0:31:51 | 0:31:54 | |
If more sheep in Wales, and Cumbria and Yorkshire, are found | 0:31:54 | 0:31:58 | |
to have been exposed to this disease, then there'll be more culls | 0:31:58 | 0:32:01 | |
and we could see more animals and more money going up in smoke. | 0:32:01 | 0:32:05 | |
Edwin is still farming in the Brecon Beacons, | 0:32:08 | 0:32:11 | |
albeit with a smaller flock. | 0:32:11 | 0:32:12 | |
It took him four years to rebuild his livelihood | 0:32:12 | 0:32:15 | |
after Foot And Mouth, but the memories will stay with him forever. | 0:32:15 | 0:32:19 | |
Edwin, that must have been an incredibly emotional | 0:32:19 | 0:32:23 | |
and very frustrating time for you? | 0:32:23 | 0:32:25 | |
It was. It was frustrating for everybody. | 0:32:25 | 0:32:28 | |
We're all in the same boat. | 0:32:28 | 0:32:29 | |
We're all neighbours. Stock all taken out. | 0:32:29 | 0:32:32 | |
My sheep were all killed in this shed. | 0:32:32 | 0:32:35 | |
And not wanting to take you back to such a dark place, | 0:32:35 | 0:32:37 | |
but that day when they came to slaughter your sheep, | 0:32:37 | 0:32:41 | |
what was the process? What happened that day? | 0:32:41 | 0:32:44 | |
They were killed in here and that shed there, as I said. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:48 | |
We were bringing sheep in with these dogs in groups, | 0:32:48 | 0:32:51 | |
into pens, and they were killed. | 0:32:51 | 0:32:53 | |
Then we'd bring another group in and they'd kill them. | 0:32:53 | 0:32:56 | |
That's the process. We started killing at about nine in the morning | 0:32:56 | 0:33:00 | |
and we finished that night about seven o'clock. So it was a long day. | 0:33:00 | 0:33:05 | |
And I'm imagining the noise must have been terrible of the gunshots? | 0:33:05 | 0:33:09 | |
You heard the gunshots, but for days after, | 0:33:09 | 0:33:12 | |
you could smell the smoke from the guns, if you like. | 0:33:12 | 0:33:15 | |
In this building for days and days, it seemed, | 0:33:15 | 0:33:18 | |
weeks, perhaps, but a long time. | 0:33:18 | 0:33:20 | |
The reminder was constantly there. | 0:33:20 | 0:33:23 | |
Thinking back to that period, did you ever think there would be | 0:33:23 | 0:33:26 | |
a time when you would fully recover from it? | 0:33:26 | 0:33:29 | |
I don't think... Well, yes. | 0:33:29 | 0:33:31 | |
Obviously, you've got to fully recover and you've got to move on, | 0:33:31 | 0:33:35 | |
but you don't forget, do you? The memories are there. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:39 | |
You kind of brush them to one side and you move on. | 0:33:39 | 0:33:42 | |
But you don't forget. | 0:33:42 | 0:33:44 | |
And how did the different farmers in this area cope with Foot And Mouth? | 0:33:44 | 0:33:48 | |
Did you chat to one another or was it something you suffered alone? | 0:33:48 | 0:33:52 | |
We had to then because it involved all of us. | 0:33:52 | 0:33:56 | |
The Beacons is a Grazers' Association. | 0:33:56 | 0:33:58 | |
It affected everybody. | 0:33:58 | 0:34:00 | |
It was all discussed in meetings. | 0:34:00 | 0:34:02 | |
"Which way are we going to go?" "Met DEFRA..." you can imagine. | 0:34:02 | 0:34:06 | |
Since then, if you like, it's...hardly referred to. | 0:34:06 | 0:34:10 | |
We don't speak about it. | 0:34:10 | 0:34:13 | |
It's something everyone wants to forget. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:16 | |
Did anything positive come out of it? | 0:34:16 | 0:34:18 | |
We got together and we started off an organisation | 0:34:18 | 0:34:21 | |
called the Welsh Commons Forum. Suddenly, you know, | 0:34:21 | 0:34:24 | |
we do have a voice in what we're expected to look after. | 0:34:24 | 0:34:28 | |
At the end of the day, you can't undermine the fact that | 0:34:28 | 0:34:32 | |
to keep these hills in good heart, | 0:34:32 | 0:34:34 | |
you're relying on the sheep, the grazing animal. | 0:34:34 | 0:34:37 | |
But to have the grazing animal, you have to have the farmers. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:42 | |
How is farming today then? | 0:34:42 | 0:34:43 | |
How is it looking in 2009? | 0:34:43 | 0:34:46 | |
I'm going to Llandovery market shortly and if you'd like to come | 0:34:46 | 0:34:50 | |
-for a run with me, and I'll show you. -Perfect. Let's go. | 0:34:50 | 0:34:52 | |
We're in the heart of upland hill farming country here | 0:35:02 | 0:35:06 | |
and a couple of years ago, | 0:35:06 | 0:35:07 | |
you might have caught sight of one man and his flock. | 0:35:07 | 0:35:10 | |
Let's catch up with Adam Henson in the second part | 0:35:10 | 0:35:13 | |
of his geese droving adventure. | 0:35:13 | 0:35:16 | |
It's half past six in the morning. | 0:35:27 | 0:35:30 | |
I've got a good fire going. | 0:35:30 | 0:35:32 | |
Tea's on the brew. | 0:35:32 | 0:35:33 | |
Last night, | 0:35:33 | 0:35:36 | |
it just didn't stop raining all night long | 0:35:36 | 0:35:38 | |
and I'm so pleased I've got a dry morning. | 0:35:38 | 0:35:41 | |
I'll have a nice cup of tea. | 0:35:41 | 0:35:42 | |
And I've also got a typical drover's breakfast. | 0:35:45 | 0:35:49 | |
Some nice, look at that, fatty bacon. | 0:35:49 | 0:35:52 | |
There's no chance of a lie-in because I'm so worried about the geese. | 0:36:00 | 0:36:04 | |
Thankfully, all 40 are still there. | 0:36:04 | 0:36:06 | |
The straw and tent have kept most of them dry, but Jemima is still muddy. | 0:36:06 | 0:36:11 | |
Peter's turned up to help me assess their condition. | 0:36:11 | 0:36:14 | |
There's one there, Peter, that's still looking quite wet. | 0:36:14 | 0:36:17 | |
Shall we catch it and dry it off a bit? | 0:36:17 | 0:36:19 | |
Yes, I think that would be a good idea. | 0:36:19 | 0:36:21 | |
GOOSE HONKS | 0:36:24 | 0:36:26 | |
It doesn't seem to be particularly waterproof, does it? | 0:36:28 | 0:36:32 | |
I think that's part of the problem with this bird. | 0:36:32 | 0:36:36 | |
It hasn't got such good feathers. | 0:36:36 | 0:36:38 | |
I did notice it when we were in the rain yesterday. | 0:36:38 | 0:36:42 | |
Whereas the other birds got white again, this bird didn't seem to be | 0:36:42 | 0:36:46 | |
making any really good impression when it was trying to preen. | 0:36:46 | 0:36:50 | |
Her neck's nice and dry. | 0:36:52 | 0:36:54 | |
Eyes bright. | 0:36:54 | 0:36:56 | |
She certainly feels very warm under her wings and things. | 0:36:56 | 0:37:00 | |
Probably warmer than I am! | 0:37:00 | 0:37:02 | |
So you think they're fit and ready to go? | 0:37:02 | 0:37:04 | |
Yes, I'm happy about them now. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:06 | |
I wouldn't have been if we hadn't had the straw. | 0:37:06 | 0:37:08 | |
It was most important to have that. | 0:37:08 | 0:37:10 | |
But as they're dry now, I think we're all right. | 0:37:10 | 0:37:13 | |
I was hoping for a few eggs this morning to go with my bacon. | 0:37:13 | 0:37:16 | |
You'd be lucky in weather like this, wouldn't you? | 0:37:16 | 0:37:19 | |
With miles of empty moorland ahead, we get under way. | 0:37:19 | 0:37:23 | |
Long grass makes for a slow waddling. | 0:37:23 | 0:37:25 | |
It takes an hour to travel half a mile. | 0:37:25 | 0:37:28 | |
With Jemima holding back, we take plenty of rest. This allows me | 0:37:38 | 0:37:43 | |
to find out more droving tales from Richard, our historian. | 0:37:43 | 0:37:47 | |
Richard, why did the drovers decide to cross the moor | 0:37:47 | 0:37:50 | |
when the going must have been pretty tough | 0:37:50 | 0:37:52 | |
and they could have used the highways? | 0:37:52 | 0:37:54 | |
Yes, there were lots of highways, | 0:37:54 | 0:37:56 | |
but the problem was that from the 17th century onwards, | 0:37:56 | 0:37:59 | |
many highways were turnpiked, which meant you had to pay | 0:37:59 | 0:38:02 | |
tuppence for every animal that passed through the turnpikes. | 0:38:02 | 0:38:06 | |
So, frequently drovers would choose these torturous mountain routes | 0:38:06 | 0:38:09 | |
to avoid those tolls and they took a balanced view, | 0:38:09 | 0:38:12 | |
"If I take my cattle along the turnpike and have to pay the toll, | 0:38:12 | 0:38:15 | |
"perhaps I'll get them to market in better condition." | 0:38:15 | 0:38:18 | |
Or they'd say, "In order to avoid the turnpikes, | 0:38:18 | 0:38:21 | |
"I'll take the mountain roads and take a risk that | 0:38:21 | 0:38:23 | |
"I'll lose condition." | 0:38:23 | 0:38:25 | |
This is the goose that we dried off this morning with Peter, the vet. | 0:38:47 | 0:38:51 | |
I think she's OK, but she seems to be hanging to the back of the flock | 0:38:51 | 0:38:55 | |
the whole time. We've got a few miles to go, so I thought I'd just | 0:38:55 | 0:38:58 | |
give her a lift, give her a helping hand. | 0:38:58 | 0:39:00 | |
In the big wide open, I am isolated, but I don't feel alone. | 0:39:23 | 0:39:26 | |
Hundreds of drovers and millions of animals have trodden this same track. | 0:39:26 | 0:39:31 | |
Most would have been the huge cattle droves | 0:39:31 | 0:39:33 | |
bound for Smithfields in London. | 0:39:33 | 0:39:35 | |
Their spirits still seem alive on this moor. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:38 | |
Maud's ducking and darting keeps the geese | 0:39:52 | 0:39:55 | |
on track over the hazardous pathways. | 0:39:55 | 0:39:58 | |
After six hours, we're leaving open moorlands of South Wales behind, | 0:40:00 | 0:40:05 | |
to head for Cilycwm, | 0:40:05 | 0:40:06 | |
a village where many drovers have spent the night. | 0:40:06 | 0:40:09 | |
All 40 geese are still with me and we're on target. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:15 | |
After a quick wash and a swim, the birds seem revived. | 0:40:15 | 0:40:20 | |
It's just Jemima who needs a helping hand. | 0:40:20 | 0:40:22 | |
The villagers of Cilycwm come out to watch | 0:40:27 | 0:40:29 | |
as I herd the geese down the main street. | 0:40:29 | 0:40:33 | |
We've made it to Cilycwm that used to be a popular drovers' haunt, | 0:40:37 | 0:40:40 | |
with five pubs catering for the herders and their beasts. | 0:40:40 | 0:40:43 | |
There's now just one pub left. | 0:40:43 | 0:40:45 | |
And that's where we're staying for the night. | 0:40:45 | 0:40:47 | |
There you go, girls and boys, lovely spot to settle in for the night. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:58 | |
Now it's time for me to go and get a nice pint of beer. | 0:40:58 | 0:41:02 | |
This is a well deserved pint after a long day. | 0:41:06 | 0:41:09 | |
Cheers. I really do need this. | 0:41:09 | 0:41:11 | |
Our daily routine is now firmly in place. | 0:41:14 | 0:41:17 | |
First thing, Peter, our vet, checks the geese. | 0:41:17 | 0:41:21 | |
They're looking very well this morning. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:23 | |
We put them in a shed overnight because there are | 0:41:23 | 0:41:26 | |
a lot of foxes in central Wales and we thought better safe than sorry. | 0:41:26 | 0:41:30 | |
They look this morning almost as though they're on | 0:41:30 | 0:41:33 | |
a Butlins holiday cruise. They're very comfortable | 0:41:33 | 0:41:36 | |
and there's masses of grass to eat. | 0:41:36 | 0:41:38 | |
No problems with the legs at all. | 0:41:38 | 0:41:40 | |
So, hopefully we shall have another good day with them. | 0:41:40 | 0:41:43 | |
Sit, sit, sit. | 0:41:43 | 0:41:45 | |
Come on, geese. Here, Maud. | 0:41:49 | 0:41:52 | |
We're off on our third and final day to the market place in Llandovery. | 0:41:52 | 0:41:56 | |
There's quite a lot of roadwork and it's a fair way, | 0:41:56 | 0:41:59 | |
so I hope they're all going to make it. | 0:41:59 | 0:42:01 | |
Today's slow pace even suits Jemima, the runt of our flock. | 0:42:01 | 0:42:07 | |
I'm beginning to think we might actually pull this journey off. | 0:42:07 | 0:42:10 | |
The geese have come eight miles so far and there's just four more to go. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:14 | |
I bet my last hunk of cheese | 0:42:36 | 0:42:38 | |
that this is the first goose drove on this road for 100 years. | 0:42:38 | 0:42:42 | |
When the last drovers came through, these trees would have been saplings. | 0:42:42 | 0:42:46 | |
When we set out, Llandovery seemed a far away goal. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:52 | |
We've trekked through forests, over moors and down country lanes. | 0:42:52 | 0:42:56 | |
Some said we'd never get 40 geese over the 12 miles, | 0:42:56 | 0:43:01 | |
but we're all still together, even Jemima, and we're nearly there. | 0:43:01 | 0:43:05 | |
After our three-day journey we've reached Llandovery | 0:43:07 | 0:43:10 | |
and the procession of geese is going to | 0:43:10 | 0:43:12 | |
lead us down to the market place where I'm going to meet the mayor. | 0:43:12 | 0:43:16 | |
They look very tame. | 0:43:21 | 0:43:23 | |
-They've quietened down nicely. -They are nice! | 0:43:23 | 0:43:26 | |
-They're not flustered by the people or anything, are they? -No. | 0:43:26 | 0:43:29 | |
That's it, keep nice and clear now so we come through, | 0:43:31 | 0:43:34 | |
we don't want to worry the geese too much. Thank you. | 0:43:34 | 0:43:37 | |
The mayor is just over there, so I'll go and say hello to her. | 0:43:44 | 0:43:47 | |
-Hello, you must be the mayor. -I am indeed. How do you do? | 0:43:54 | 0:43:57 | |
And you've done this wonderful journey. | 0:43:57 | 0:43:59 | |
We've had a fantastic trip. We walked them right over | 0:43:59 | 0:44:02 | |
the top of the moor and then down into town. | 0:44:02 | 0:44:04 | |
We've had a lovely trip. I've got a little something for you. | 0:44:04 | 0:44:07 | |
Drovers used to carry letters. We've got a letter of thanks for you here. | 0:44:07 | 0:44:12 | |
That's delightful. | 0:44:12 | 0:44:13 | |
What a lovely idea. Look at that! I'm absolutely thrilled with that. | 0:44:13 | 0:44:18 | |
-Thank you very much. -Thank you for welcoming us. | 0:44:18 | 0:44:20 | |
it's been a great trip for me and the geese and the dog. | 0:44:20 | 0:44:23 | |
I think it's a wonderful achievement. | 0:44:23 | 0:44:25 | |
Give the geese a round of applause, they've walked for three days. | 0:44:25 | 0:44:29 | |
When the crowds disperse, I walk the final part of my drovers' way. | 0:44:38 | 0:44:43 | |
200 years ago, my flock of 40 geese would have been a tiny number in | 0:44:43 | 0:44:47 | |
comparison to the hundreds of birds, cows and sheep walked here by others. | 0:44:47 | 0:44:52 | |
Drovers would swap tales and drink beer in this buzzing market square | 0:44:52 | 0:44:56 | |
as they waited to sell their animals. | 0:44:56 | 0:44:58 | |
Today it's traffic, not animals, that fill Llandovery's streets. | 0:45:03 | 0:45:09 | |
But the drovers are this town's historical heroes | 0:45:12 | 0:45:15 | |
and reminders of them are everywhere. | 0:45:15 | 0:45:17 | |
Well, we've made it to Llandovery, so I suppose that's the end | 0:45:24 | 0:45:28 | |
of our epic journey. It's certainly a trip I'll never forget. | 0:45:28 | 0:45:32 | |
Now it's time for the geese to return to their farm and me to mine. | 0:45:32 | 0:45:36 | |
Over the last three days, I feel like I've stepped back in time | 0:45:36 | 0:45:39 | |
and just got a taste of what it must have been like to be a drover. | 0:45:39 | 0:45:43 | |
I've made it to Llandovery, too. | 0:46:04 | 0:46:06 | |
The final stop on my journey across the Brecon Beacons National Park. | 0:46:06 | 0:46:11 | |
Local farmer Edwin Harris has brought me along to the market. | 0:46:11 | 0:46:14 | |
How important are these markets? | 0:46:21 | 0:46:24 | |
The livestock markets through the country | 0:46:24 | 0:46:26 | |
are a vital part of the farming industry. | 0:46:26 | 0:46:29 | |
Without them, I think the industry would die. | 0:46:29 | 0:46:31 | |
Obviously, during Foot And Mouth they were closed down. | 0:46:31 | 0:46:34 | |
The whole place ground to a halt. Did that really affect it? | 0:46:34 | 0:46:37 | |
It did, especially with the Foot And Mouth areas where you couldn't travel anyway. | 0:46:37 | 0:46:42 | |
Not be able to move the livestock around? | 0:46:42 | 0:46:44 | |
No. We were totally reliant on supermarkets then to buy stock. | 0:46:44 | 0:46:48 | |
Do you remember when the markets reopened after that terrible time? | 0:46:48 | 0:46:52 | |
-Yes. -What was the mood like? | 0:46:52 | 0:46:55 | |
Very pleased | 0:46:55 | 0:46:56 | |
because we had our markets back. | 0:46:56 | 0:46:59 | |
Are you likely to actually be buying anything today? | 0:46:59 | 0:47:02 | |
I doubt it because of the time of the year. | 0:47:02 | 0:47:05 | |
You'll see a fairly good trade today, but of course time will tell | 0:47:05 | 0:47:09 | |
and if we go inside we'll know what happens, won't we? | 0:47:09 | 0:47:12 | |
£4, 4.20, 4.20, 4.50, 4.50, 4.80, 4.80, | 0:47:12 | 0:47:17 | |
4.80, £5 - at £5.20. | 0:47:17 | 0:47:21 | |
5.20, 5.50, 5.50, 5.50, at £5.50. | 0:47:21 | 0:47:26 | |
And on same pen. 47, what a lovely pen of lambs these are. | 0:47:26 | 0:47:30 | |
All new lambs and look at them and all farm-assured now. | 0:47:30 | 0:47:34 | |
It's incredibly fast but I'm just getting a handle | 0:47:34 | 0:47:38 | |
on the different type of sheep and lambs. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:41 | |
These are for store, so the prices go slightly lower. | 0:47:41 | 0:47:45 | |
7.50, and 52... | 0:47:45 | 0:47:49 | |
It's an extraordinary atmosphere because you've got the farmers, | 0:47:49 | 0:47:53 | |
you've got the supermarket buyers and they're all watching out | 0:47:53 | 0:47:56 | |
to see who's selling what for what sort of price. | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
It's an amazing atmosphere. It's very social here. | 0:47:59 | 0:48:02 | |
And the biggest surprise of all is that despite grim global economics, | 0:48:03 | 0:48:08 | |
the trade here is booming. | 0:48:08 | 0:48:11 | |
The two lambs I brought in, they were meant to be keeping on as rams, | 0:48:11 | 0:48:15 | |
but I didn't see them good enough. | 0:48:15 | 0:48:16 | |
I thought I'd sell them today because the prices are quite high | 0:48:16 | 0:48:20 | |
and they made £80, so I was quite happy. | 0:48:20 | 0:48:22 | |
But there were only two, it's a pity there weren't 100, | 0:48:22 | 0:48:25 | |
you know, but there we are! | 0:48:25 | 0:48:27 | |
No, trade's good. Everybody seems happy and smiling, so it's not bad. | 0:48:27 | 0:48:31 | |
I bought 20 hoggets in and they averaged... | 0:48:31 | 0:48:35 | |
£80 - about £80 apiece. | 0:48:35 | 0:48:40 | |
Some of the smallest ones were in the 40s, | 0:48:40 | 0:48:43 | |
but the majority in the 80s. | 0:48:43 | 0:48:46 | |
They're probably £20 up on this time last year. | 0:48:46 | 0:48:50 | |
£20 better off. | 0:48:50 | 0:48:51 | |
Yes, which we could do with. | 0:48:51 | 0:48:55 | |
I wish I'd bought some sheep to make some money, yes. | 0:48:55 | 0:48:58 | |
As I was telling you earlier, | 0:48:58 | 0:49:01 | |
empty pockets. That's the story of my life! | 0:49:01 | 0:49:04 | |
What's your first reaction to today's sales? | 0:49:10 | 0:49:13 | |
First reaction? It's been a decent sale this morning, to be honest. | 0:49:13 | 0:49:17 | |
Trade is back up from last week. | 0:49:17 | 0:49:18 | |
A bit more spirited bidding, less numbers about. | 0:49:18 | 0:49:21 | |
Drawn a few extra customers out today. | 0:49:21 | 0:49:24 | |
We've had a very nice show of lambs here today, to be honest. | 0:49:24 | 0:49:27 | |
It's reflected in the price, really. | 0:49:27 | 0:49:29 | |
So some very happy farmers | 0:49:29 | 0:49:30 | |
and you as an auctioneer must be happy as well. | 0:49:30 | 0:49:33 | |
-For a change, yes, we're all happy! -Thank you very much. | 0:49:33 | 0:49:36 | |
So, how come the farmers are smiling while the bankers are sobbing? | 0:49:36 | 0:49:41 | |
I met up with National Farmers' Union county chairman, | 0:49:41 | 0:49:45 | |
Bernard Llewellyn, to find out. | 0:49:45 | 0:49:47 | |
What I'm interested to see today is that while the country is dipping | 0:49:47 | 0:49:52 | |
into economic turmoil, farming seems to be on the up. Why is that? | 0:49:52 | 0:49:57 | |
I think you must be aware that in reality | 0:49:57 | 0:49:59 | |
WE'VE been on the dip for a very long time. | 0:49:59 | 0:50:02 | |
Really, primarily, certainly today because of the value of the Euro | 0:50:02 | 0:50:05 | |
against world currency, we're seeing the advantage at last | 0:50:05 | 0:50:10 | |
coming through to us as farmers. | 0:50:10 | 0:50:12 | |
Anybody producing anything in the UK at the moment | 0:50:12 | 0:50:16 | |
is going to be at an advantage. | 0:50:16 | 0:50:18 | |
Because it's going to cost, particularly supermarkets | 0:50:18 | 0:50:21 | |
in our case, more money to buy in from abroad. | 0:50:21 | 0:50:24 | |
Also as producers we can compete with those farmers from abroad as well. | 0:50:24 | 0:50:28 | |
So while the rest of the country is suffering an economic downturn, | 0:50:28 | 0:50:32 | |
farming is coming out of recession? | 0:50:32 | 0:50:34 | |
We hope that it's coming out of recession anyway. | 0:50:34 | 0:50:37 | |
I think it's a very complicated equation, isn't it? | 0:50:37 | 0:50:40 | |
It's about the value of the pound against other world currencies, | 0:50:40 | 0:50:44 | |
it's also about the attitude of banks. | 0:50:44 | 0:50:47 | |
Farming has always been a very, very poor return on capital invested, | 0:50:47 | 0:50:51 | |
particularly owner-occupiers. | 0:50:51 | 0:50:53 | |
But now we're seeing a change in that banks are starting to get nervous | 0:50:53 | 0:50:57 | |
about assets that people have, because in reality we're actually | 0:50:57 | 0:51:01 | |
very asset-rich it means that | 0:51:01 | 0:51:03 | |
we're probably being looked on in a bit more of a friendly way now. | 0:51:03 | 0:51:07 | |
2001 was an incredibly bleak period for the entire farming community. | 0:51:07 | 0:51:11 | |
Did you or could you imagine a time when farming would bounce back? | 0:51:11 | 0:51:15 | |
Well, you have to. You really wouldn't be a farmer | 0:51:15 | 0:51:19 | |
if you didn't have SOME faith in what was going on. | 0:51:19 | 0:51:22 | |
All right, Foot And Mouth was a huge problem, | 0:51:22 | 0:51:25 | |
but we've had problems every bit as bad as that in the past. | 0:51:25 | 0:51:28 | |
Certainly that was the straw that broke the camel's back at the time, | 0:51:28 | 0:51:32 | |
but it certainly wasn't an issue | 0:51:32 | 0:51:34 | |
that we never felt we could come back from. | 0:51:34 | 0:51:38 | |
Travelling the length and breadth of this National Park | 0:51:42 | 0:51:45 | |
has given me a real insight into the people and the places | 0:51:45 | 0:51:49 | |
that have shaped the Brecon Beacons. | 0:51:49 | 0:51:51 | |
And for an area that was so badly hit by Foot And Mouth | 0:51:51 | 0:51:54 | |
it seems all the more deserving that farming is finally back on its feet. | 0:51:54 | 0:51:59 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:52:11 | 0:52:14 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:52:14 | 0:52:17 |