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'Today, I'm on a journey across the Peak District - | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
'a journey which will take me up rock faces...' | 0:00:21 | 0:00:24 | |
-You've definitely got the ropes, haven't you? -Definitely got you! | 0:00:24 | 0:00:28 | |
'..On horseback...' | 0:00:30 | 0:00:32 | |
'And swooping over this beautiful upland.' | 0:00:36 | 0:00:39 | |
That's so cool! | 0:00:39 | 0:00:41 | |
I start at the Heights Of Abraham, | 0:00:47 | 0:00:49 | |
travel through the villages of Cromford, Tissington and Milldale, | 0:00:49 | 0:00:53 | |
then take on a notorious climb at The Roaches. | 0:00:53 | 0:00:55 | |
I'll end up by taking that jump off the mountainside, | 0:00:55 | 0:00:59 | |
at Shining Tor. | 0:00:59 | 0:01:00 | |
Along the way, we'll bring you the very best of the BBC's | 0:01:00 | 0:01:04 | |
rural programmes from this part of the country. | 0:01:04 | 0:01:07 | |
Welcome to Country Tracks. | 0:01:07 | 0:01:09 | |
The Peak District National Park was established in 1951, | 0:01:15 | 0:01:19 | |
becoming Britain's first national park. | 0:01:19 | 0:01:21 | |
It's an incredibly beautiful area, | 0:01:21 | 0:01:24 | |
attracting tourists from across the world. | 0:01:24 | 0:01:26 | |
But that's not the only industry here. Manufacturing, farming | 0:01:26 | 0:01:29 | |
and quarrying all help to keep the local economy alive. | 0:01:29 | 0:01:33 | |
At 1,000 feet above sea level, towering above Matlock Bath, | 0:01:34 | 0:01:39 | |
the Heights Of Abraham offer spectacular views across the Peak District. | 0:01:39 | 0:01:43 | |
Two caves here are features of the heights - | 0:01:43 | 0:01:46 | |
part natural and part lead mines. | 0:01:46 | 0:01:48 | |
One's thought to be the oldest mine in the Peak District, | 0:01:48 | 0:01:51 | |
once worked by the Romans. | 0:01:51 | 0:01:53 | |
It contains several large chambers, a spring, | 0:01:53 | 0:01:56 | |
and even some 16th-century graffiti. | 0:01:56 | 0:01:58 | |
The Heights is one of the most popular tourist destinations | 0:01:58 | 0:02:02 | |
in Derbyshire, and I'm here to meet the owner, Andrew Pugh. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:05 | |
Andrew, how are you? Good to see you. What a fantastic view from up here. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:11 | |
-Indeed, yes. -What's the castle that I can see? | 0:02:11 | 0:02:13 | |
That's Riber Castle, built by John Smedley. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:16 | |
He was one of the tycoons of the day - he introduced the hydros to Matlock | 0:02:16 | 0:02:21 | |
Wow. So there's a huge sort of rich heritage in this whole area. | 0:02:21 | 0:02:26 | |
When did you actually put in this cable car? | 0:02:26 | 0:02:28 | |
This cable car will be 25 years old this year. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
And how many people have you had on your cable car since it opened? | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
Ooh, I'm guessing, but must be 10 million. | 0:02:34 | 0:02:37 | |
-Really, that many? -Yes. -Right. | 0:02:37 | 0:02:39 | |
The Heights Of Abraham itself is probably the oldest tourist | 0:02:39 | 0:02:42 | |
attraction in Derbyshire, | 0:02:42 | 0:02:44 | |
opened in 1780, but of course, traditionally, people walked up the Heights. | 0:02:44 | 0:02:50 | |
They came up to discover the dramatic views, | 0:02:50 | 0:02:52 | |
and also to take conducted tours of the caves. | 0:02:52 | 0:02:55 | |
So tourism's always been pretty important in this area of the Peak District as a whole, | 0:02:55 | 0:03:00 | |
but going back, there was obviously lots of other important industries - | 0:03:00 | 0:03:03 | |
-textile manufacturing, farming...? -Well, yes, of course - | 0:03:03 | 0:03:06 | |
Arkwright, in fact, built the first mill. And so the industrial revolution | 0:03:06 | 0:03:10 | |
started here, on the Derwent. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:12 | |
And how long have tourists been coming to this area? When was the tourist industry born. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:17 | |
The tourist industry grew up because lead mining, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:20 | |
which was the main source of the economy, | 0:03:20 | 0:03:22 | |
that fell into decline, the lead was exhausted. | 0:03:22 | 0:03:25 | |
And in late 1600s, | 0:03:25 | 0:03:28 | |
people discovered the baths. | 0:03:28 | 0:03:30 | |
And then the whole movement | 0:03:30 | 0:03:33 | |
grew up of coming to take the waters of Matlock Bath. | 0:03:33 | 0:03:36 | |
The guidebooks of the day referred to the quality who came to take the waters. | 0:03:36 | 0:03:40 | |
That was because, of course - | 0:03:40 | 0:03:42 | |
the wars in Europe - people couldn't take the grand tours. | 0:03:42 | 0:03:46 | |
And Matlock Bath itself developed as a tourist resort, | 0:03:46 | 0:03:50 | |
then of course it moved on, | 0:03:50 | 0:03:53 | |
the wars ended, people went to Europe, | 0:03:53 | 0:03:55 | |
and then we had to discover mass tourism. | 0:03:55 | 0:03:57 | |
1847, the railway arrived, | 0:03:57 | 0:03:59 | |
and everybody came from the industrial towns. | 0:03:59 | 0:04:03 | |
-Therefore, tourism was reborn here. -Reborn, and it's gone on ever since. | 0:04:03 | 0:04:07 | |
Was there a rivalry between the different tourist attractions, then and now? | 0:04:07 | 0:04:11 | |
Oh, yes. Umm...in the 1800s, the Heights was battling with High Tor - | 0:04:11 | 0:04:17 | |
you see on the other side of the valley, that was a tourist attraction. | 0:04:17 | 0:04:21 | |
Every little nook and cranny was opened as a cavern, | 0:04:21 | 0:04:24 | |
but it was the Heights who had the major caves, | 0:04:24 | 0:04:26 | |
and of course the Heights is the sole survivor of that era. | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
And how important is tourism to this area today? | 0:04:30 | 0:04:32 | |
25,000 people work in tourism throughout the county - | 0:04:32 | 0:04:35 | |
it's very important. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:36 | |
And this part of the world is also pretty rich in tradition | 0:04:36 | 0:04:40 | |
and heritage - there's all sorts of things, aren't there? | 0:04:40 | 0:04:43 | |
Oh, many things go on in the different villages throughout, | 0:04:43 | 0:04:46 | |
and in Matlock Bath here in particular, we have, for instance, | 0:04:46 | 0:04:49 | |
crazy things like on Boxing Day, | 0:04:49 | 0:04:51 | |
every year we have the raft race down the valley, | 0:04:51 | 0:04:53 | |
and then in October every year, we have the illuminations | 0:04:53 | 0:04:57 | |
where individual floats are developed | 0:04:57 | 0:05:00 | |
very secretly - there are a dozen of them, | 0:05:00 | 0:05:02 | |
and people make them secretly in their garages, | 0:05:02 | 0:05:06 | |
and they come out and they compete to be the best float of the illumination season. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:10 | |
I imagine it goes without saying that the people of Derbyshire, | 0:05:10 | 0:05:13 | |
of the Peak District, are incredibly proud of their environment and traditions? | 0:05:13 | 0:05:18 | |
Absolutely. And I think we've been fortunate that... | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
the landscape which we all inherited, we care for. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:24 | |
It really is spectacular views from here, | 0:05:26 | 0:05:30 | |
but slightly closer to the ground, Adam Henson came here | 0:05:30 | 0:05:33 | |
several years ago, when he entered Michaela into a hen race, in Bonsall. | 0:05:33 | 0:05:38 | |
The small villages of this part of Derbyshire have always been quiet, | 0:05:38 | 0:05:42 | |
out-of-the-way places. It's what gives them their charm. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:46 | |
In days gone by, the villagers - they had to make their own entertainment. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:50 | |
CLUCKING | 0:05:50 | 0:05:51 | |
Behind these walls, a local tradition grew... | 0:05:51 | 0:05:54 | |
..And what once used to happen between friends and neighbours | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
has now gone public. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:00 | |
Forget the gee-gees - this is how they get their kicks round here. | 0:06:07 | 0:06:10 | |
Hen racing! | 0:06:10 | 0:06:11 | |
When I was a boy, I'd heard that hen racing went on. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:14 | |
I always thought we'd make it public, | 0:06:14 | 0:06:18 | |
we did it in the back garden, then I found out that farmers were doing it | 0:06:18 | 0:06:21 | |
and people round here were doing it, | 0:06:21 | 0:06:23 | |
and then 10 years ago we thought we would do it. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:26 | |
I built the track, I've got helpers, really good supporters, | 0:06:26 | 0:06:30 | |
we have common sense rules which are to do with making sure there's no | 0:06:30 | 0:06:34 | |
cruelty whatsoever. No dogs in the car park, | 0:06:34 | 0:06:36 | |
any hens which start hen-pecking are removed straight away - | 0:06:36 | 0:06:39 | |
little things like that - no cockerels. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:42 | |
-Do they take it quite seriously then? -Yeah, the people that breed hens, | 0:06:42 | 0:06:46 | |
really enthusiastic - they want to not only continue these breeds, | 0:06:46 | 0:06:49 | |
but make sure they can try and win this race. | 0:06:49 | 0:06:52 | |
To end up with the fastest chicken in the world! | 0:06:52 | 0:06:55 | |
Rick has been training hens for years. | 0:06:55 | 0:06:57 | |
He really enthuses about coming and trying to win the event. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:01 | |
It's my favourite afternoon of the whole year - Christmas included. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
In '98, we actually came with a chicken, Vindaloo, which won the championship - | 0:07:04 | 0:07:09 | |
the first time the trophy actually went outside Bonsall. | 0:07:09 | 0:07:12 | |
We've got Sam, who's a really keen chicken breeder. Has a wonderful spot up on the hill. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:17 | |
This is my hen, and I think it's going to be my best in the race. | 0:07:17 | 0:07:21 | |
How many chickens have you got? | 0:07:21 | 0:07:23 | |
I've got 34 but I'm entering three. | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
I've been training twice a day for the last 2 months, | 0:07:25 | 0:07:28 | |
but I've been training once a week for the last year. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:31 | |
Then we've got Jane, who has come from Nottingham, | 0:07:31 | 0:07:34 | |
she's a relative newcomer. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
I've been to two events before, but I've never had my own chicken. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
I have actually just rented the chicken for the day, | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
so...although I'd like to say that I've trained it, I haven't. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:46 | |
-And what's her name? -Rent-a-chick! | 0:07:46 | 0:07:48 | |
'Well, I've picked my winner. | 0:07:48 | 0:07:51 | |
'Back on the farm, we've been in some serious training. | 0:07:51 | 0:07:55 | |
MUSIC: "Rocky Theme" | 0:07:55 | 0:07:56 | |
Getting a bit way laid by things, not thinking about things properly. | 0:08:03 | 0:08:06 | |
You seem to be thinking about your stomach all the time. | 0:08:06 | 0:08:09 | |
I don't want a kiss now. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:10 | |
Well, these are my two hens, named after Countryfile presenters - | 0:08:26 | 0:08:30 | |
Charlotte and Michaela. Pretty good hens, I've been doing some work | 0:08:30 | 0:08:33 | |
with them at home. Have you got any tips? | 0:08:33 | 0:08:35 | |
Well, they're excellent hens. Provided you've been feeding them | 0:08:35 | 0:08:39 | |
at a distance of 35 feet at 2 o'clock every day, | 0:08:39 | 0:08:41 | |
to a certain food - tomato or corn - to a sound as well, | 0:08:41 | 0:08:46 | |
chances are you will win the race. | 0:08:46 | 0:08:48 | |
Time will tell, as the whole village turns out to watch | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
the World Hen Racing Championships. | 0:08:51 | 0:08:54 | |
Races are won in heats, and open to all comers. | 0:08:57 | 0:08:59 | |
'They're on the starting blocks... | 0:09:00 | 0:09:02 | |
'off they go! | 0:09:02 | 0:09:04 | |
'Some made a good start.' | 0:09:04 | 0:09:06 | |
CHEERING | 0:09:06 | 0:09:08 | |
'This one's found something nice to eat. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:11 | |
'Ooh! There goes one. She's making a run for the line. | 0:09:11 | 0:09:14 | |
'Oh dear, this one's very confused. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:16 | |
'Oh, yes - these ones don't really know what's going on at all! | 0:09:18 | 0:09:23 | |
'Wrong way! | 0:09:23 | 0:09:24 | |
'The final sprint!' | 0:09:27 | 0:09:28 | |
CHEERING | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
'This is Michaela's heat. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:32 | |
'I've recruited some help to get her started. | 0:09:32 | 0:09:35 | |
'She gets away well.' | 0:09:36 | 0:09:38 | |
Come on! She's in the lead. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
'Looking good! | 0:09:40 | 0:09:42 | |
SHOUTING | 0:09:42 | 0:09:43 | |
'But suddenly, it's all changed. | 0:09:46 | 0:09:48 | |
'She's gone backwards, and oh, no...' | 0:09:48 | 0:09:51 | |
My chicken nearly started fighting. | 0:09:51 | 0:09:54 | |
Michaela's always a bit feisty. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:56 | |
'We're back in front now. | 0:09:56 | 0:09:58 | |
'But no, we've been overtaken.' | 0:09:58 | 0:10:00 | |
CHEERING | 0:10:02 | 0:10:03 | |
We were pipped at the post - congratulations! | 0:10:08 | 0:10:12 | |
Well, it's all down to Charlotte now. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:18 | |
There's little Lottie - she's going to be a winner! | 0:10:18 | 0:10:21 | |
'Oh, dear! Bit of a late start! | 0:10:24 | 0:10:26 | |
'I'm sure you can hear the corn.' Oh, you lazy chicken! | 0:10:26 | 0:10:29 | |
'Here she comes, she's making a race for it! | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
'Come on, Charlotte - she's on the left there - there she goes! | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
'Running for the corn shaking! Go on! | 0:10:35 | 0:10:37 | |
'Go on, Charlotte! Come on, come on! | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
'She's got to get both feet over that line. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:43 | |
'Come on, chicken! | 0:10:45 | 0:10:46 | |
'You know you can do it. Come on. | 0:10:49 | 0:10:51 | |
'Just one more foot!' | 0:10:53 | 0:10:56 | |
YES! | 0:10:57 | 0:10:59 | |
She went over the line! Over the line! Yes! | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
What a great girl. A winner! | 0:11:04 | 0:11:07 | |
We're in the final now. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:09 | |
Oh, bless her. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:13 | |
'The final line up. Can the Countryfile chicken do it again? | 0:11:13 | 0:11:17 | |
'We're on the left this time. | 0:11:17 | 0:11:19 | |
'Not a very good start. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:21 | |
'Oh dear. I think she's going the wrong way. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:24 | |
'Look at that chicken go! Come on, Charlotte - where are you?' | 0:11:24 | 0:11:28 | |
CHEERING | 0:11:29 | 0:11:31 | |
Oh, she's going the wrong way! | 0:11:31 | 0:11:34 | |
'What happened there, Charlotte? You let me down. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
'My helpers are very disappointed. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:39 | |
'Back to the chicken coop for you.' | 0:11:39 | 0:11:42 | |
Well done. Thanks a lot. | 0:11:44 | 0:11:45 | |
Congratulations - you did pretty well! | 0:11:48 | 0:11:50 | |
We had a second and third in the final, and a great afternoon. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:54 | |
Which is what it's about! Are you converted to hen racing? | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
Well, maybe. We got in the final, so... you know, | 0:11:57 | 0:11:59 | |
my hopes were high, but we failed, I'm afraid. | 0:11:59 | 0:12:02 | |
But a bit more training, and we might come back next year | 0:12:02 | 0:12:05 | |
-with better hens. -You took it seriously, didn't you? | 0:12:05 | 0:12:08 | |
The chicken was very fast when I tried to catch it at the end, | 0:12:08 | 0:12:11 | |
but it didn't do too well in the race. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
It actually ran backwards and tried to get out from the netting. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
But I hadn't trained it, so what do you expect? | 0:12:17 | 0:12:20 | |
-It was a bit nervous. -Are you coming back next year? -I am. | 0:12:20 | 0:12:22 | |
'And, as the village winds down, | 0:12:22 | 0:12:25 | |
'how did our local lad Sam get on?' | 0:12:25 | 0:12:28 | |
I didn't do very well myself, but this is my cousin, and she won. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
-So... -With one of your chickens? -Yeah. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:33 | |
Oh, that was generous of you, giving her that one! | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
If I'd have known I wouldn't have given it her! | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
'So the trophy stays in the family. | 0:12:39 | 0:12:41 | |
'And in Bonsall, which will keep the locals happy.' | 0:12:41 | 0:12:44 | |
Leaving the Heights of Abraham, I'm cycling south, to Cromford. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:51 | |
Now, the Peak District has produced more than its fair share | 0:12:56 | 0:12:59 | |
of famous residents. Dame Ellen MacArthur, Vivienne Westwood, | 0:13:01 | 0:13:04 | |
but perhaps its most famous son is the poet and novelist, | 0:13:04 | 0:13:08 | |
DH Lawrence. | 0:13:08 | 0:13:10 | |
Many of Lawrence's works were inspired by and set to the backdrop | 0:13:17 | 0:13:21 | |
of this stunning landscape. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:22 | |
I'm meeting the director of the DH Lawrence research centre, | 0:13:24 | 0:13:27 | |
Dr Sean Matthews, to find out more. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
So, where are we now, then? | 0:13:31 | 0:13:32 | |
We're at Mountain Cottage, | 0:13:32 | 0:13:34 | |
which is in Middleton by Wirksworth in Derbyshire, | 0:13:34 | 0:13:37 | |
just inside the Peaks. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:38 | |
This is where DH Lawrence came to live between April of 1918 | 0:13:38 | 0:13:42 | |
and April of 1919. | 0:13:42 | 0:13:44 | |
So what brought him here in 1918? | 0:13:44 | 0:13:45 | |
An odd combination of factors. He had been living in Cornwall, | 0:13:45 | 0:13:49 | |
he'd been very excited about living in Cornwall with his German wife. | 0:13:49 | 0:13:52 | |
But he was kicked out of Cornwall by the police, who decided he was | 0:13:52 | 0:13:56 | |
-probably a German spy. -This is just after the war? -During the war - | 0:13:56 | 0:14:00 | |
during late 1917 and early 1918. | 0:14:00 | 0:14:03 | |
So he was really in a difficult position and his book The Rainbow | 0:14:03 | 0:14:07 | |
had been banned - it had been burnt in front of the Old Bailey, | 0:14:07 | 0:14:11 | |
so having been at a moment where he thought he was going to be a successful writer - | 0:14:11 | 0:14:14 | |
Sons And Lovers was enormously successful, | 0:14:14 | 0:14:17 | |
his collections of short stories had sold very well - | 0:14:17 | 0:14:20 | |
suddenly he had no income, his books were banned, | 0:14:20 | 0:14:23 | |
he was a controversial figure and he really didn't know what to do. | 0:14:23 | 0:14:27 | |
Fortunately, his sister, Ada, who lives just up the road in Ripley, | 0:14:27 | 0:14:31 | |
was able to find him this cottage at £65 for the year's rent, | 0:14:31 | 0:14:35 | |
and you have to think at that time, | 0:14:35 | 0:14:37 | |
A), that isn't so much money, but also, this was a very remote, | 0:14:37 | 0:14:41 | |
very cold, very small - it was a much smaller cottage in those days - | 0:14:41 | 0:14:45 | |
place to be living. So he came here, really, to work out | 0:14:45 | 0:14:48 | |
what he was going to do. | 0:14:48 | 0:14:50 | |
So is it almost like he's imprisoned in this house? | 0:14:50 | 0:14:53 | |
It is. He comes here and he's very, very reserved, | 0:14:53 | 0:14:56 | |
and very anxious about coming back home to Derbyshire, | 0:14:56 | 0:14:59 | |
it's where he grew up, he grew up in Eastwood, just up the road, | 0:14:59 | 0:15:02 | |
but his relation to Eastwood and his family was difficult. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:05 | |
Once he'd written Sons And Lovers he became famous, | 0:15:05 | 0:15:08 | |
but many people in Eastwood were upset - the representation of his parents and family, | 0:15:08 | 0:15:12 | |
people that they knew, were unfair. | 0:15:12 | 0:15:14 | |
Do you think it's for you? Do you think I'd stop one minute for you? | 0:15:14 | 0:15:17 | |
-Go! -My word! And leave those children with you? | 0:15:17 | 0:15:19 | |
Ah! Go, go on! | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
I should be only too glad. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:24 | |
I should laugh, laugh, my lord, if I could get away from you. | 0:15:24 | 0:15:27 | |
His old girlfriend, of course, was Miriam in Sons And Lovers, | 0:15:27 | 0:15:31 | |
and was very oddly represented and there was a lot of resentment | 0:15:31 | 0:15:34 | |
about the way Lawrence had talked about people he knew and places he knew. | 0:15:34 | 0:15:38 | |
DH Lawrence is now firmly part of Derbyshire's history | 0:15:38 | 0:15:42 | |
and people are very proud of him being a former resident here. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:47 | |
So his life almost went full circle. He went from being ostracised and pilloried for his work | 0:15:47 | 0:15:51 | |
-to being celebrated here. -That's very true. | 0:15:51 | 0:15:54 | |
Now in Eastwood, which is his birthplace, there's a wonderful birthplace museum, | 0:15:54 | 0:15:58 | |
which I warmly recommend that you visit. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:00 | |
Also, there's a mining heritage museum that shares this... | 0:16:00 | 0:16:04 | |
Because Lawrence, of course, writes very well about that mining community at that historical moment. | 0:16:04 | 0:16:09 | |
So, yes, having been pilloried as the author of the dirty books, now, in Eastwood, | 0:16:09 | 0:16:14 | |
there's a recognition that he's a very important representative of the town. | 0:16:14 | 0:16:20 | |
People, I think, | 0:16:20 | 0:16:22 | |
do recognise that, commercially, he brings people to Eastwood. | 0:16:22 | 0:16:26 | |
He puts Eastwood and Broxtowe on the map. There's acknowledgement of that across the region. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:30 | |
Continuing my journey, I'm now heading | 0:16:39 | 0:16:41 | |
to the beautiful village of Tissington. | 0:16:41 | 0:16:45 | |
This is Tissington well. | 0:16:55 | 0:16:56 | |
It's served travellers for centuries here, | 0:16:56 | 0:17:00 | |
and it's something the local people love to celebrate, | 0:17:00 | 0:17:03 | |
as John Craven found out back in 1999. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:06 | |
Tissington is one of the loveliest villages in Derbyshire. | 0:17:06 | 0:17:10 | |
It's got a population of about 150. And they've just been celebrating, | 0:17:10 | 0:17:14 | |
in a very colourful way, Tissington's most unusual feature. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:18 | |
They've got no less than six wells - | 0:17:18 | 0:17:20 | |
this is just one of them - which for centuries have provided | 0:17:20 | 0:17:24 | |
the people here with safe water. And even though there's now a mains supply, | 0:17:24 | 0:17:28 | |
every year, on Ascension Day, the villagers continue the old tradition | 0:17:28 | 0:17:32 | |
of giving thanks for their wells | 0:17:32 | 0:17:34 | |
by transforming them, like this. | 0:17:34 | 0:17:37 | |
The wells of Tissington have always kept flowing, | 0:17:45 | 0:17:47 | |
even in times of great drought, and stayed pure when there were epidemics of waterborne diseases, | 0:17:47 | 0:17:53 | |
so the tradition started of paying tribute to the wells, | 0:17:53 | 0:17:57 | |
first with simple garlands of flowers. | 0:17:57 | 0:17:59 | |
In Victorian times, the custom became much grander, | 0:17:59 | 0:18:02 | |
using wooden boards coated with clay | 0:18:02 | 0:18:05 | |
into which flower petals were pressed to create tableaus. | 0:18:05 | 0:18:09 | |
And that's what continues today. | 0:18:09 | 0:18:11 | |
Designs are drawn on wallpaper - they're different every year - | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
-and the outline is transferred by pricking into the clay. -You've got the legs to do. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
That's it. It's coming up. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:24 | |
Rhubarb seeds are a popular choice for backgrounds. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:27 | |
Every inch of the boards are covered in natural materials, | 0:18:27 | 0:18:31 | |
with seasonal flowers like bluebells and wild hyacinths | 0:18:31 | 0:18:34 | |
being joined by things such as parsley and coffee beans. | 0:18:34 | 0:18:38 | |
It's a job for all generations as the six different teams - | 0:18:38 | 0:18:41 | |
one for each well - create their displays, | 0:18:41 | 0:18:44 | |
all of them, by tradition, based on familiar Bible stories. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:48 | |
Though it all needs skill and delicacy, | 0:18:49 | 0:18:52 | |
The well-dressers are working to a deadline. | 0:18:52 | 0:18:54 | |
We've got to get it all finished by 4 o'clock this afternoon. | 0:18:54 | 0:18:57 | |
The end result makes it worthwhile. | 0:18:57 | 0:18:59 | |
People come back year after year to work in the same teams, | 0:18:59 | 0:19:02 | |
people like Helen and her mother, Ann. | 0:19:02 | 0:19:06 | |
It's a real challenge, this is, | 0:19:06 | 0:19:08 | |
to make the picture come to life, cos we're working flat, | 0:19:08 | 0:19:12 | |
and it's not until the board's reared up | 0:19:12 | 0:19:14 | |
that you really get the depth of the thing. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:17 | |
How do you create that mosaic effect on the faces? | 0:19:17 | 0:19:21 | |
Oh, we've used... | 0:19:21 | 0:19:23 | |
-Would you like to say, Helen? -We've used a different colour of coffee beans. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:27 | |
You can see the paler ones go across a cheekbone | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
and the darker ones are further away and in the shadow, | 0:19:29 | 0:19:32 | |
just like on the rope here. We've used spruce tips. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:36 | |
I've made it go in a pattern across, | 0:19:36 | 0:19:38 | |
to make it look as though the fabric drapes across. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:41 | |
The colour of the sky is sensational. How do you achieve that? | 0:19:41 | 0:19:45 | |
Thanks. I pick up all the different petals, | 0:19:45 | 0:19:47 | |
arrange them into colours and try to make it look as though it's sweeping across a sky, | 0:19:47 | 0:19:51 | |
-to make it look like clouds. -What flowers are they? | 0:19:51 | 0:19:54 | |
These are all pansies. Lots of pansies, | 0:19:54 | 0:19:58 | |
so nobody's got any pansies around here! | 0:19:58 | 0:20:00 | |
-THEY LAUGH -We've raided all the gardens. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:02 | |
There's an awful effort in all of this, isn't there, | 0:20:02 | 0:20:05 | |
-and it only lasts for a few days? -It does. It's sad, really. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:08 | |
But it gives a lot of pleasure to people when they see them | 0:20:08 | 0:20:12 | |
in the village, at the wells, | 0:20:12 | 0:20:14 | |
and it's our way of thanksgiving for the abundance of water here. | 0:20:14 | 0:20:18 | |
The magnificent Jacobean mansion Tissington Hall dominates the village | 0:20:18 | 0:20:23 | |
which for centuries has been owned by the Fitzherbert family. | 0:20:23 | 0:20:26 | |
It's always been the estate workers and their families who have decorated the wells, | 0:20:26 | 0:20:31 | |
-but times change and some traditions wane. -I'm not worried at all | 0:20:31 | 0:20:34 | |
about the future of well-dresses. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:36 | |
I think it's strong... It's going very strong here | 0:20:36 | 0:20:40 | |
and the families that are here are committed to it for the future. | 0:20:40 | 0:20:44 | |
I can see this festival going on for many generations. | 0:20:44 | 0:20:48 | |
The latest generation has its own well to dress, | 0:20:48 | 0:20:52 | |
though this particular tradition started less than 20 years ago. | 0:20:52 | 0:20:55 | |
-Not me. The other one. -Yeah, the little one. He's got that. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:59 | |
11-year-old Janine Bradley is this year's designer. | 0:20:59 | 0:21:02 | |
Why did you choose Adam and Eve? | 0:21:06 | 0:21:07 | |
Cos Adam and Eve hasn't really been done on the well before | 0:21:07 | 0:21:11 | |
and because Adam and Eve | 0:21:11 | 0:21:13 | |
was the beginning of the world and it's coming up to the year 2000. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:16 | |
Many Derbyshire wells get decorated every year | 0:21:16 | 0:21:20 | |
and the idea is now spreading abroad, | 0:21:20 | 0:21:22 | |
but it's thought that the ones in Tissington were the very first. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:26 | |
Before dusk on the eve of Ascension Day, | 0:21:26 | 0:21:28 | |
the boards are moved from the sheds where they've been decorated. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:31 | |
After all the delicate artistry, | 0:21:31 | 0:21:34 | |
it's time for a bit of manhandling. | 0:21:34 | 0:21:37 | |
Do you think it should go to the left a bit? | 0:22:01 | 0:22:03 | |
I think it's probably about there now. Yeah. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
-It's ready for hammering. -Yes. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:09 | |
This is the first time that you've seen it vertical. What do you reckon? | 0:22:09 | 0:22:13 | |
I'm pleased with that. | 0:22:13 | 0:22:15 | |
-Yeah, it's come to life now. -Lovely. | 0:22:15 | 0:22:18 | |
-I just hope everybody else likes it. -THEY LAUGH | 0:22:18 | 0:22:21 | |
Janine, what do you reckon now you see it standing up straight, | 0:22:21 | 0:22:25 | |
your work of art? | 0:22:25 | 0:22:27 | |
It's very different when it's standing up than it is lying down... | 0:22:27 | 0:22:30 | |
in the shed where we did it. | 0:22:30 | 0:22:32 | |
-Are you pleased with it, though? -Yes. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:34 | |
Tell me, Adam and Eve, who are they modelled on? | 0:22:34 | 0:22:38 | |
No-one, really. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:40 | |
-Are you sure? -Yes. | 0:22:40 | 0:22:42 | |
BELL RINGS Well, now it's Tissington's big day | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
and suddenly the tiny village is filled with people, | 0:22:51 | 0:22:54 | |
all here to admire the well-dressings. | 0:22:54 | 0:22:56 | |
The final touches were put to them only hours ago, | 0:22:56 | 0:22:59 | |
and now the highlight of the day is a church procession | 0:22:59 | 0:23:02 | |
to each of the wells, to bless them and give thanks for their water. | 0:23:02 | 0:23:06 | |
Give your blessing to this well. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:15 | |
THEY SING A HYMN | 0:23:15 | 0:23:19 | |
When the petals have wilted in a couple of days' time, | 0:23:23 | 0:23:26 | |
and an estimated 50,000 people have seen the displays, | 0:23:26 | 0:23:30 | |
the boards will come down and the people of Tissington | 0:23:30 | 0:23:33 | |
will start planning for next year. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:35 | |
For the next stage of my journey, | 0:23:58 | 0:24:00 | |
I've hit the trail in the most invigorating of ways. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:03 | |
This really is a beautiful way | 0:24:05 | 0:24:07 | |
of exploring the Peak District National Park. | 0:24:07 | 0:24:11 | |
There are more than 3,500 public rights of way | 0:24:11 | 0:24:15 | |
crisscrossing the park. | 0:24:15 | 0:24:17 | |
This is Bounce. A beautiful horse. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:20 | |
But more than 40 years ago, it wasn't horses like Bounce | 0:24:20 | 0:24:24 | |
that were using these paths, but trains. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:27 | |
Good girl. | 0:24:27 | 0:24:29 | |
The old Buxton to Ashbourne line, which opened in 1899 | 0:24:31 | 0:24:35 | |
carried milk from the herds at Tissington and Hartington, | 0:24:35 | 0:24:38 | |
as well as limestone from local quarries. | 0:24:38 | 0:24:41 | |
When the line closed in 1967, | 0:24:41 | 0:24:43 | |
it was decided to turn the disused railway | 0:24:43 | 0:24:45 | |
into a track for recreational purposes. | 0:24:45 | 0:24:48 | |
It reopened in 1971 as the Tissington Trail, | 0:24:48 | 0:24:52 | |
designed for walkers, cyclists and of course, horses. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:55 | |
Just a few miles down this trail is the town of Ashbourne. | 0:24:55 | 0:25:00 | |
It's a pretty wonderful way of getting there, on Bounce, here. | 0:25:00 | 0:25:03 | |
But Ashbourne itself is home to a sport | 0:25:03 | 0:25:06 | |
far less relaxing than horse-riding. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:09 | |
Michaela Strachan visited in 2000 and believe me, it's messy! | 0:25:09 | 0:25:16 | |
The shops are boarded up, the streets are deserted. | 0:25:29 | 0:25:33 | |
You may think this town has been the victim | 0:25:33 | 0:25:35 | |
of a night of rioting and violence. | 0:25:35 | 0:25:37 | |
But you'd be wrong - that doesn't happen till later! | 0:25:37 | 0:25:41 | |
SHOUTING | 0:25:41 | 0:25:43 | |
This is Ashbourne in Derbyshire, home to Shrovetide Football, | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
where they tell me the push and shove is all good-natured... | 0:25:47 | 0:25:50 | |
SHOUTING | 0:25:50 | 0:25:52 | |
..And they play the funniest funny old game of them all. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:56 | |
Nestled on the edge of the Peak District, Ashbourne is usually a calm, rural market town. | 0:25:56 | 0:26:02 | |
But it's a town that prides itself on keeping tradition alive. | 0:26:02 | 0:26:05 | |
Shrovetide Football is played on Shrove Tuesday and Ash Wednesday every year. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:10 | |
There are two teams of unspecified numbers of people, | 0:26:10 | 0:26:14 | |
sometimes up to 500 a side. | 0:26:14 | 0:26:16 | |
The Up'ards born north of the River Henmore | 0:26:16 | 0:26:18 | |
and the Down'ards born on the south. The goals are three miles apart. | 0:26:18 | 0:26:22 | |
The tradition gives Ashbourne an amazing feeling of history and community. | 0:26:22 | 0:26:26 | |
But for an outsider, it can be pretty baffling. | 0:26:26 | 0:26:30 | |
Most of the crowd are on the pitch, | 0:26:30 | 0:26:31 | |
half the crowd are actually playing and they don't think it's all over | 0:26:31 | 0:26:35 | |
because it's just about to begin! | 0:26:35 | 0:26:37 | |
'It seems to be amazing if you can just get to touch the ball. | 0:26:44 | 0:26:48 | |
'But if you score a goal, there's huge adulation. And at the end of the day, | 0:26:48 | 0:26:52 | |
'the hand-painted ball is yours to keep as a trophy.' | 0:26:52 | 0:26:55 | |
I've got a ball that my granddad got in 1896. | 0:26:55 | 0:26:59 | |
My dad wasn't fortunate enough to get a ball. | 0:26:59 | 0:27:02 | |
I got mine in 1975. | 0:27:02 | 0:27:05 | |
My son is playing today, hoping to get a ball. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:09 | |
And I'm hoping it's gonna be here long enough for my grandson to play. | 0:27:09 | 0:27:12 | |
All right! | 0:27:12 | 0:27:14 | |
-I played for 42 years. -And did you have a good time? | 0:27:14 | 0:27:16 | |
Absolutely marvellous, there's nothing like it. | 0:27:16 | 0:27:19 | |
I was a river player cos I was never nimble on foot. | 0:27:19 | 0:27:22 | |
So I always played in the river and got wet! | 0:27:22 | 0:27:24 | |
-What did it feel like to score a goal? -Absolutely wonderful. | 0:27:24 | 0:27:28 | |
You dream all your life of it in Ashbourne... | 0:27:28 | 0:27:31 | |
It is, it's something you can't believe will ever happen. | 0:27:31 | 0:27:35 | |
And... I can't explain it, it was absolutely wonderful. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:38 | |
SHOUTING AND CHATTER | 0:27:38 | 0:27:40 | |
Well, it's not a game of two halves | 0:27:40 | 0:27:42 | |
and there are no complicated offside rules. | 0:27:42 | 0:27:45 | |
In fact, there are hardly any rules at all! | 0:27:45 | 0:27:47 | |
Just three very simple ones. | 0:27:47 | 0:27:49 | |
Number one, there's no mechanical assistance for the balls - | 0:27:49 | 0:27:53 | |
which basically means you can't put it in a car or bike. | 0:27:53 | 0:27:55 | |
Number two, if the ball goes missing for more than an hour, | 0:27:55 | 0:27:59 | |
then it is counted as void. And number three, | 0:27:59 | 0:28:01 | |
If a goal is scored before 5pm | 0:28:01 | 0:28:03 | |
then another one is turned out and the whole thing starts again. | 0:28:03 | 0:28:06 | |
'It's a challenge just knowing where the ball is. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:11 | |
'And knowing who's on who's team!' | 0:28:11 | 0:28:15 | |
It's like a big oven. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:16 | |
But it's like someone's squeezing you at the same time. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:19 | |
You know what I mean? | 0:28:19 | 0:28:20 | |
You've got, like, a big rugby squad. | 0:28:20 | 0:28:22 | |
It's like there's about six rugby teams in one go. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:26 | |
'It's a rough and muddy old game | 0:28:26 | 0:28:30 | |
'and physically very demanding...' | 0:28:30 | 0:28:34 | |
Cramped, hot, claustrophobic... | 0:28:34 | 0:28:38 | |
Can't breathe! | 0:28:38 | 0:28:40 | |
Bye-bye! | 0:28:42 | 0:28:44 | |
'After 2.5 hours of play, the ball had moved 200 yards up the hill | 0:28:45 | 0:28:49 | |
'but then came back to the car park. | 0:28:49 | 0:28:51 | |
'And then things got really messy...' | 0:28:51 | 0:28:53 | |
Substantial progress has been made, | 0:29:12 | 0:29:14 | |
they've now got the ball into the park. It's come to a standstill now, | 0:29:14 | 0:29:18 | |
they're trying to get it in the river and up to the goal. | 0:29:18 | 0:29:21 | |
But even if they don't score tonight, the whole game starts again tomorrow! | 0:29:21 | 0:29:26 | |
Personally, though, I've had enough mud for one day | 0:29:26 | 0:29:29 | |
and it's getting dark - I'm going home. Bye-bye! | 0:29:29 | 0:29:32 | |
So far, I've travelled from the Heights of Abraham to Cromford, | 0:29:40 | 0:29:44 | |
and then onto the village of Tissington. | 0:29:44 | 0:29:46 | |
Now, I'm heading to the pretty hamlet of Milldale. | 0:29:46 | 0:29:49 | |
In May 1653, this little gem of a book was published. | 0:29:57 | 0:30:01 | |
It's called The Compleat Angler, or, | 0:30:01 | 0:30:03 | |
The Contemplative Man's Recreation. | 0:30:03 | 0:30:06 | |
It's by Izaak Walton and as the name suggests, | 0:30:06 | 0:30:09 | |
it's loosely based around fishing. | 0:30:09 | 0:30:11 | |
Incredibly, this has become | 0:30:11 | 0:30:13 | |
the third biggest-selling book in the English language. | 0:30:13 | 0:30:17 | |
The book tells the story of a wise old angler who meets a young companion. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:24 | |
They decide to travel together through the north of England on a fishing trip, | 0:30:24 | 0:30:28 | |
during which they discuss at length, fish, the universe, and, well, everything! | 0:30:28 | 0:30:32 | |
The two travellers are called Piscator, the wise old angler, | 0:30:32 | 0:30:36 | |
and Viator, his pupil. In the book, they arrive at this very bridge | 0:30:36 | 0:30:39 | |
at Milldale which, in those days, wouldn't have had any walls | 0:30:39 | 0:30:43 | |
and would have been pretty frightening to cross. | 0:30:43 | 0:30:45 | |
In the book, Viator says, | 0:30:46 | 0:30:49 | |
"Why, a mouse can hardly go over it. 'Tis not 12 fingers broad." | 0:30:49 | 0:30:54 | |
Following the phenomenal success of the book, | 0:30:54 | 0:30:56 | |
the bridge previously known as "Milldale", was remained, "Viator Bridge". | 0:30:56 | 0:31:02 | |
But this is much more than a fishing book. | 0:31:02 | 0:31:04 | |
It's got poetry, ruminations on nature, | 0:31:04 | 0:31:07 | |
and it even contains recipes. | 0:31:07 | 0:31:10 | |
And I've got plans for a spot of lunch. | 0:31:10 | 0:31:13 | |
MUSIC: "Tubas In The Moonlight" by Bonzo Dog Band | 0:31:15 | 0:31:20 | |
I'm gonna try cooking one of Piscator's famous recipes for trout. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:31 | |
I should probably mention now that I'm not very good at cooking. | 0:31:31 | 0:31:35 | |
But I'll give it a go! | 0:31:35 | 0:31:36 | |
I feel like I'm venturing back into a bygone era. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:40 | |
In fact, I'm going to be tasting history. This is a 353-year-old recipe. | 0:31:40 | 0:31:45 | |
First of all, we take our pan and according to this, | 0:31:45 | 0:31:49 | |
we add a little vinegar. | 0:31:49 | 0:31:52 | |
There we go. And a little white wine - I like that touch. | 0:31:52 | 0:31:58 | |
In it goes. | 0:31:58 | 0:32:00 | |
Next, we add some rosemary and thyme. A little bit there. | 0:32:00 | 0:32:06 | |
A little bit of that in and a little bit of that. | 0:32:06 | 0:32:10 | |
Next, we add some salt. And some lemon rind. | 0:32:10 | 0:32:15 | |
Do I look like Jamie Oliver yet? Probably not! | 0:32:15 | 0:32:17 | |
And we pop it onto the stove until it comes to the boil. | 0:32:17 | 0:32:23 | |
We'll leave it for a bit. This is, presumably, the boring bit in cooking. | 0:32:23 | 0:32:27 | |
And now, that has finally come to the boil, | 0:32:36 | 0:32:39 | |
so I will take my piece of trout and pop it in there. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:46 | |
Just put that on there and, eh, we leave that to boil for a bit. | 0:32:46 | 0:32:50 | |
Right, well, it looks like that has just about finished. | 0:32:59 | 0:33:04 | |
I'll take that off the stove. | 0:33:04 | 0:33:08 | |
It certainly smells quite nice. | 0:33:08 | 0:33:10 | |
I'll pop that... | 0:33:12 | 0:33:14 | |
Doesn't look too bad. Even if I say so myself! | 0:33:17 | 0:33:21 | |
A little bit lonely on the plate, there. | 0:33:21 | 0:33:23 | |
Right... | 0:33:24 | 0:33:26 | |
OK... | 0:33:26 | 0:33:28 | |
I'll see what this tastes like. | 0:33:28 | 0:33:30 | |
Mmm. | 0:33:32 | 0:33:34 | |
Not bad. A little bit more Ray Mears than Gordon Ramsay, but very tasty. | 0:33:34 | 0:33:39 | |
What a very pleasant way to spend an afternoon. | 0:33:39 | 0:33:43 | |
# Tubas in the moonlight | 0:33:45 | 0:33:48 | |
# Will bring my loved-one home... # | 0:33:48 | 0:33:56 | |
'It's always nice to round off a meal with a fine piece of cheese. | 0:34:00 | 0:34:03 | |
'John Craven went to find out what goes into making a local Derbyshire Stilton.' | 0:34:03 | 0:34:08 | |
'The cheese is named after a village in Cambridgeshire but it's never been made there. | 0:34:08 | 0:34:13 | |
'Derbyshire is one of only three counties where it can be produced | 0:34:13 | 0:34:16 | |
'and Hartington is just inside the border.' | 0:34:16 | 0:34:19 | |
-So, what have we got here, then? -This is the curd, John. | 0:34:19 | 0:34:22 | |
Five hours ago, this was milk. | 0:34:22 | 0:34:24 | |
And now we've separated the milk out into the solids and the liquid. | 0:34:24 | 0:34:29 | |
-This is the curds and the whey in Little Miss Muffet! -Yes! | 0:34:29 | 0:34:32 | |
And how have you got it so solid so quickly? | 0:34:32 | 0:34:34 | |
Erm, we use natural things. We use bacteria and enzymes called rennet. | 0:34:34 | 0:34:38 | |
-And that separates the milk out. -And what happens to the curd | 0:34:38 | 0:34:42 | |
when you've got rid of all this watery waste? | 0:34:42 | 0:34:46 | |
We'll cut it up into smaller pieces and then we'll put it into | 0:34:46 | 0:34:50 | |
some plastic cylinders to make the traditional Stilton shape. | 0:34:50 | 0:34:53 | |
I'll show you that now. | 0:34:53 | 0:34:55 | |
-Which "whey"? -This "whey"! | 0:34:55 | 0:34:57 | |
This is where we store the cheese to mature them. | 0:34:59 | 0:35:01 | |
-How many are here then? -30,000 in this store | 0:35:01 | 0:35:04 | |
and a total capacity for over 120,000 Stiltons. | 0:35:04 | 0:35:07 | |
I have to say, what a pong in here! | 0:35:07 | 0:35:10 | |
That's a beautiful smell. | 0:35:10 | 0:35:12 | |
-Smelly feet, isn't it? -It's ammonia gas. | 0:35:12 | 0:35:14 | |
It's the same chemical that gives you sweaty feet. | 0:35:14 | 0:35:17 | |
That's why a lot of people think Stilton smells like old socks. | 0:35:17 | 0:35:21 | |
A lot of people think that, but all blue cheeses smell like that when they're maturing, | 0:35:21 | 0:35:25 | |
especially in here, we've got 30,000. It doesn't smell like that on your plate. | 0:35:25 | 0:35:29 | |
Has Stilton always had that smell? | 0:35:29 | 0:35:31 | |
No, no. Stilton originally... This is originally what Stilton looked like. | 0:35:31 | 0:35:36 | |
-There's no mould in there at all, is there? -No blue. | 0:35:37 | 0:35:40 | |
This is what Stilton was originally. | 0:35:40 | 0:35:42 | |
The blue stuff is a mistake, or an accident, depending on your viewpoint. | 0:35:42 | 0:35:47 | |
How did that happen then? | 0:35:47 | 0:35:48 | |
A crack in the cheese, some blue mould got in... | 0:35:48 | 0:35:51 | |
There's good and bad moulds. This is a good mould. | 0:35:51 | 0:35:54 | |
And it's made it blue. | 0:35:54 | 0:35:55 | |
How long does it take to create a mature Stilton? | 0:35:55 | 0:35:59 | |
Well, that's a week old, that's a month old, | 0:35:59 | 0:36:02 | |
three months, four months. That's a mature Stilton - four months old. | 0:36:02 | 0:36:06 | |
-Only four months? I thought it would be three or four years. -No. | 0:36:06 | 0:36:09 | |
With cheddar, you'd be correct. A good cheddar can be up to two years old. | 0:36:09 | 0:36:13 | |
Stilton matures in that short time. The blue mould accelerates the maturing process. | 0:36:13 | 0:36:18 | |
So a cheese is ready at three or four months old. | 0:36:18 | 0:36:20 | |
So if it's only four months, this must be your Christmas supply here. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:24 | |
This is going to be served up on Christmas Day, most of this lot. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:27 | |
How do you manage to get the blue into the cheese then? | 0:36:27 | 0:36:31 | |
Originally it was an accident, | 0:36:31 | 0:36:33 | |
but what we do nowadays, we add the mould spores or seeds at an earlier part of the production process. | 0:36:33 | 0:36:39 | |
And then? | 0:36:39 | 0:36:40 | |
And then later on, what it needs to trigger that mould to grow is oxygen. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:44 | |
So we pierce the cheese, make holes in it and then lets oxygen in | 0:36:44 | 0:36:48 | |
and the blue grows and you get that nice marbled effect. | 0:36:48 | 0:36:51 | |
Unfortunately, we don't have the opportunity to revisit the Hartington creamery. | 0:36:52 | 0:36:56 | |
Production is now being wound down | 0:36:56 | 0:36:58 | |
and it'll be closing its doors for good this summer. | 0:36:58 | 0:37:01 | |
A sign of the many pressures small companies face to stay viable in rural areas, | 0:37:01 | 0:37:06 | |
especially in this tough economic climate. | 0:37:06 | 0:37:08 | |
I've hiked north-west of Milldale | 0:37:18 | 0:37:21 | |
to a climber's paradise known as The Roaches. | 0:37:21 | 0:37:25 | |
I'm off to meet a man who regularly climbs these cliffs - Dave Turnbull. | 0:37:25 | 0:37:29 | |
Dave is the chief executive of the British Mountaineering Council. | 0:37:34 | 0:37:38 | |
He's climbed some of the most challenging peaks all over the world. | 0:37:38 | 0:37:42 | |
I'm here to experience just what it is that keeps bringing him back to the Peak District. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:47 | |
So Derbyshire and the Peak District is heavily steeped in climbing history. | 0:37:47 | 0:37:52 | |
There's probably a hundred different crags here. | 0:37:52 | 0:37:56 | |
Some of them several miles long. | 0:37:56 | 0:37:58 | |
It's got a history going back to the end of the 19th century. | 0:37:58 | 0:38:02 | |
You've got the Dark Peak, the good stone such as this | 0:38:02 | 0:38:04 | |
and you've got the White Peak, the limestone cliffs. It's a great training ground. | 0:38:04 | 0:38:08 | |
So for someone like me, who's a novice, I've done a teeny bit in the past, but not a great amount, | 0:38:08 | 0:38:13 | |
is this a good place, The Roaches, to come and practise? | 0:38:13 | 0:38:16 | |
Yeah, this'll be challenging. We've picked a classic climb, first done in 1947, I think. | 0:38:16 | 0:38:22 | |
It was quite a climb of its day. I think it will be quite challenging for you. | 0:38:22 | 0:38:28 | |
So what do I need to climb this? | 0:38:28 | 0:38:31 | |
You're basically OK like that. Climbers today climb in all sorts of different clothes. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:35 | |
We've got a harness, two ropes, all the modern climbing equipment. | 0:38:35 | 0:38:39 | |
This things are called Friends - climbing devices. | 0:38:39 | 0:38:42 | |
These things revolutionised climbing in about 1977, when they were built. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:47 | |
These things go in cracks and they protect you if you fall off. | 0:38:47 | 0:38:50 | |
'We're going to be attempting the well known climb, Valkyrie. | 0:38:55 | 0:38:58 | |
'Given Dave's climbing history, I think I'll let him lead.' | 0:38:59 | 0:39:04 | |
Generally very good on gritstone, you can take a lot of weight on your feet. | 0:39:05 | 0:39:10 | |
-OK. -So you're basically using the wide sections of the crack. -Yep. | 0:39:10 | 0:39:14 | |
-Good. -Can I use my back to lean against? | 0:39:16 | 0:39:19 | |
You can use anything, any part of your body. | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
OK, this is going to be interesting. | 0:39:22 | 0:39:24 | |
Are you sure this is a climb for a novice like me? | 0:39:24 | 0:39:27 | |
I didn't say that! | 0:39:27 | 0:39:29 | |
(BOTH LAUGH) | 0:39:29 | 0:39:30 | |
Keep thinking about where your feet are. | 0:39:30 | 0:39:33 | |
That's it. Is it a wide section of crack there? | 0:39:33 | 0:39:35 | |
There is, yeah. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:36 | |
I think you can get a bit of a fist in there. | 0:39:36 | 0:39:39 | |
That's all I'm hanging by. | 0:39:39 | 0:39:40 | |
I think maybe you need another one higher up. Then get your feet up. | 0:39:40 | 0:39:43 | |
Ooh, that's beginning to hurt. | 0:39:43 | 0:39:46 | |
OK, you might be ready to catch me if I... | 0:39:49 | 0:39:51 | |
I've got you tight. | 0:39:51 | 0:39:52 | |
That's it. You've done the hard bit now. | 0:39:54 | 0:39:56 | |
That's good. That's good. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:00 | |
I had no idea how hard this is. | 0:40:04 | 0:40:07 | |
OK. | 0:40:07 | 0:40:08 | |
That was slightly undignified. I'm sure most climbers don't... | 0:40:22 | 0:40:25 | |
No, you're looking good. | 0:40:25 | 0:40:27 | |
'If I thought that was hard, | 0:40:27 | 0:40:30 | |
'it was nothing compared to what I had to do next.' | 0:40:30 | 0:40:33 | |
-I need to go a bit lower, don't I? -I think so. | 0:40:41 | 0:40:44 | |
You need to be able to stretch your left foot out. | 0:40:44 | 0:40:46 | |
-You've definitely got the ropes, haven't you? -Definitely got you. | 0:40:46 | 0:40:50 | |
I'm going to put all the weight on my arm, I can't break it, can I? | 0:40:58 | 0:41:01 | |
No, you won't break your arm, don't worry. | 0:41:01 | 0:41:03 | |
-Sort your feet out, Ben! -I know. | 0:41:03 | 0:41:07 | |
You look like you're about the right height there. | 0:41:09 | 0:41:11 | |
Shall I just... | 0:41:11 | 0:41:13 | |
Come on, Ben. | 0:41:13 | 0:41:15 | |
You've got me if I fall, yeah? | 0:41:15 | 0:41:18 | |
Yeah. Pull upwards with your left hand. | 0:41:18 | 0:41:20 | |
Come on, Ben. | 0:41:20 | 0:41:22 | |
I want to hug you! | 0:41:33 | 0:41:34 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:41:34 | 0:41:35 | |
-Put it there. -Thank you very much. | 0:41:35 | 0:41:38 | |
Let me clamber up this last... | 0:41:38 | 0:41:42 | |
Woo hoo hoo! | 0:41:46 | 0:41:48 | |
The summit. | 0:41:48 | 0:41:49 | |
Thank you very much. | 0:41:49 | 0:41:51 | |
That...was quite scary, I have to say. | 0:41:51 | 0:41:54 | |
Very satisfying, though. | 0:41:54 | 0:41:56 | |
You did well. | 0:41:56 | 0:41:58 | |
It's quite a difficult climb for the first time on gritstone. | 0:41:58 | 0:42:01 | |
I'd like to see the novices you have around here! | 0:42:01 | 0:42:04 | |
Ooh, it's good to be back on firm land. | 0:42:13 | 0:42:17 | |
That got the heart pumping. | 0:42:17 | 0:42:18 | |
That was scary. | 0:42:18 | 0:42:20 | |
Like any wilderness, the Peak District can offer excitement and even danger. | 0:42:20 | 0:42:25 | |
You wouldn't want to be all alone out here if the weather turned. | 0:42:25 | 0:42:29 | |
The Derbyshire Moors at the end of the 17th century. | 0:42:29 | 0:42:34 | |
It's bitterly cold, the wind is biting. | 0:42:34 | 0:42:37 | |
Jane Cullembullen and her two daughters leave their home | 0:42:37 | 0:42:40 | |
and travel to her sister's in Sheffield for Christmas. | 0:42:40 | 0:42:43 | |
It's a journey of 25 miles. | 0:42:43 | 0:42:46 | |
As they cross the moors, they get hopelessly lost. | 0:42:46 | 0:42:49 | |
Their bodies were found huddled in a hollow when the snow thawed the following spring. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:53 | |
Tragic accounts like that | 0:42:53 | 0:42:55 | |
were frighteningly common in the 17th century. | 0:42:55 | 0:42:57 | |
Although many of the locals knew how to cross the treacherous moors | 0:42:57 | 0:43:01 | |
and could understand the maze of crisscrossing pathways, strangers couldn't. | 0:43:01 | 0:43:06 | |
As trade increased between villages and towns, | 0:43:06 | 0:43:08 | |
more people found themselves crossing the unknown. | 0:43:08 | 0:43:11 | |
Many were lost and were never found again. | 0:43:11 | 0:43:14 | |
But after the death of the mother and her two daughters, | 0:43:14 | 0:43:17 | |
the government decided that something had to be done. | 0:43:17 | 0:43:20 | |
In 1697, at the time of William III, | 0:43:24 | 0:43:27 | |
they passed an act all to do with roads. | 0:43:27 | 0:43:30 | |
They inserted a clause which said that... | 0:43:30 | 0:43:33 | |
local parishes could erect guide posts or stones, | 0:43:33 | 0:43:36 | |
or, as they call them round here, stoops, | 0:43:36 | 0:43:38 | |
with the directions to the nearest market towns. | 0:43:38 | 0:43:42 | |
This is just the sort of place, a lonely moorland crossroads, | 0:43:42 | 0:43:46 | |
where they would erect the stoop. | 0:43:46 | 0:43:48 | |
You've got to imagine the scene before a single wall was built, | 0:43:48 | 0:43:53 | |
or any of the roads. | 0:43:53 | 0:43:54 | |
Where does the word stoop come from? | 0:43:54 | 0:43:56 | |
It dates from the time when we were ruled by the Danes. | 0:43:56 | 0:44:00 | |
The word stoop is simply the Danish word for a stone. | 0:44:00 | 0:44:04 | |
I'm sure this stoop is very useful | 0:44:04 | 0:44:06 | |
and I'm sure there's probably some in the other direction, | 0:44:06 | 0:44:09 | |
but how do you know how to get from this one to the next one? | 0:44:09 | 0:44:12 | |
The hand reminds you to go to the right. | 0:44:12 | 0:44:14 | |
And in those days, of course, before the heather, | 0:44:14 | 0:44:17 | |
the trackway would be perfectly clear. | 0:44:17 | 0:44:20 | |
In pre-stoop days, they relied on natural features. | 0:44:20 | 0:44:25 | |
Even in some lonely areas, they used individual thorn trees, | 0:44:25 | 0:44:29 | |
they only trees that would survive out here. | 0:44:29 | 0:44:32 | |
People would memorise them. | 0:44:32 | 0:44:33 | |
And even if they were strangers, | 0:44:33 | 0:44:35 | |
they would recite a list that a local would give them. | 0:44:35 | 0:44:38 | |
And very often, in a dale in Derbyshire, the people didn't know the way to the next dale. | 0:44:38 | 0:44:44 | |
They never went. | 0:44:44 | 0:44:45 | |
So those who did know made a living out of guiding foreigners | 0:44:45 | 0:44:50 | |
and the foreigners might live only ten miles away. | 0:44:50 | 0:44:53 | |
With the introduction of maps and construction of proper roads, | 0:44:57 | 0:45:01 | |
stoops became less important. | 0:45:01 | 0:45:03 | |
Many of them fell into disrepair, crumbled, or were simply forgotten about. | 0:45:03 | 0:45:07 | |
Until now, that is. Jim, you're not going to let people forget about stoops. | 0:45:07 | 0:45:11 | |
-You're busy restoring them to their pride of place. -Yes, I am. | 0:45:11 | 0:45:15 | |
I'm a member of the Holymoorside & District History Society. | 0:45:15 | 0:45:18 | |
We're all very committed to the conservation of many things, | 0:45:18 | 0:45:22 | |
but especially guide stoops at the moment. | 0:45:22 | 0:45:24 | |
How do you go about restoring these to their former glory? | 0:45:24 | 0:45:28 | |
When we find one, we remove it and put it back on to its original site. | 0:45:28 | 0:45:33 | |
They have travelled quite a distance, in some cases, | 0:45:33 | 0:45:36 | |
from where they originated from. | 0:45:36 | 0:45:38 | |
Why do you find them so fascinating? | 0:45:38 | 0:45:40 | |
They have so many interesting features about them. | 0:45:40 | 0:45:43 | |
The date on one, the stonemason evidently had the wrong impression | 0:45:43 | 0:45:47 | |
of what the figure seven looked like, cos it was facing the wrong way. | 0:45:47 | 0:45:51 | |
And the phonetic spelling of the different place names | 0:45:51 | 0:45:54 | |
are also very different, | 0:45:54 | 0:45:57 | |
dependent on the area and the dialect of the area from which the stonemason came. | 0:45:57 | 0:46:02 | |
-What's the story behind this one? -In 1940, the Home Guard, in their wisdom, | 0:46:04 | 0:46:09 | |
decided to bury all guide posts | 0:46:09 | 0:46:11 | |
in case they were of assistance to the expected German invasion. | 0:46:11 | 0:46:14 | |
And this particular one lay buried in a trench there for 55 years. | 0:46:14 | 0:46:19 | |
-It's in good nick, isn't it? -Absolutely. It's been preserved in the peat. | 0:46:19 | 0:46:23 | |
The only thing that hasn't any respect for it is the birds. | 0:46:23 | 0:46:26 | |
-Their droppings are creating a corrosion effect on the top. -SHE LAUGHS | 0:46:26 | 0:46:30 | |
This is a typical example | 0:46:30 | 0:46:32 | |
of a guide stoop having been removed possibly 200 years ago | 0:46:32 | 0:46:37 | |
by a farmer who needed a gate-post. | 0:46:37 | 0:46:39 | |
And he nicked it from its original site, where it started life in 1710. | 0:46:39 | 0:46:44 | |
But now we're in the fortunate position | 0:46:44 | 0:46:46 | |
whereby, thanks to Michael Burnett, the present farmer on this land, | 0:46:46 | 0:46:51 | |
he has agreed to do an exchange deal with us | 0:46:51 | 0:46:54 | |
whereby we are giving him a gate-post as a replacement for this. | 0:46:54 | 0:46:58 | |
-So soon you'll be able to add this one to your list of restorations. -Absolutely. | 0:46:58 | 0:47:02 | |
This is a stoop you erected earlier. | 0:47:02 | 0:47:04 | |
-How long ago did you restore it? -A year ago last October. | 0:47:04 | 0:47:08 | |
This was re-erected after the war in the wrong position, some quarter of a mile in the distance. | 0:47:08 | 0:47:13 | |
Now these stoops are back in position, what's their future? | 0:47:13 | 0:47:17 | |
They're given a Grade II listing, | 0:47:17 | 0:47:19 | |
and that gives them protection for eternity, we hope. | 0:47:19 | 0:47:23 | |
And of course, they give a lot of pleasure to future generations. | 0:47:23 | 0:47:27 | |
And they add an added entrance for visitors to this national park. | 0:47:27 | 0:47:32 | |
My visit to the park is coming to an end. | 0:47:32 | 0:47:36 | |
But there's one more challenge ahead of me. | 0:47:36 | 0:47:39 | |
I'm nearly on the summit of Shining Tor | 0:47:39 | 0:47:41 | |
and in a moment, I'm going to be flinging myself off the edge, attached to a paraglider. | 0:47:41 | 0:47:46 | |
My route through the Peak District | 0:47:46 | 0:47:47 | |
has taken me from the Heights of Abraham, | 0:47:47 | 0:47:50 | |
through Cromford and into the village of Tissington. | 0:47:50 | 0:47:52 | |
I then travelled to the hamlet of Milldale, | 0:47:54 | 0:47:57 | |
and scaled the gritstone of The Roaches. | 0:47:57 | 0:48:00 | |
To end this journey, I've come to Shining Tor. | 0:48:00 | 0:48:03 | |
I've climbed 1,834 feet to the summit. | 0:48:06 | 0:48:11 | |
But it's not just for this breathtaking scenery. | 0:48:11 | 0:48:14 | |
Local flying instructor Mark Bosher | 0:48:14 | 0:48:17 | |
is set to show me one of the safest ways to throw myself off. | 0:48:17 | 0:48:21 | |
-Hello, Ben. -Hello. | 0:48:21 | 0:48:23 | |
-That's quite a hill. -It is. | 0:48:23 | 0:48:25 | |
The view up here... | 0:48:25 | 0:48:27 | |
I can't believe we're going to be flinging ourselves off the edge of this. | 0:48:27 | 0:48:31 | |
-Yes, we will. We'll be flying off. -I understand I'm in capable hands. | 0:48:31 | 0:48:35 | |
-You've done this lots of times. -A couple. | 0:48:35 | 0:48:37 | |
We're going to be paragliding, which is what all this stuff is here. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:41 | |
It's a giant parachute. So what do I need to know? | 0:48:41 | 0:48:45 | |
We're going to have a quick safety brief, obviously. | 0:48:45 | 0:48:48 | |
The main thing is that when you go off, keep your legs down, | 0:48:48 | 0:48:51 | |
keep running, and just relax and we'll be away. | 0:48:51 | 0:48:54 | |
-All you've got to do is stick it on like a jacket. -OK. | 0:48:54 | 0:48:57 | |
It's like a chair I'm putting on. | 0:48:58 | 0:49:00 | |
I've got a camera on here, so... Yeah, have a look at that. | 0:49:00 | 0:49:03 | |
Hopefully that's going to record the views we have. | 0:49:03 | 0:49:06 | |
-Anything else I need... -No, just keep running, keep your legs down, | 0:49:06 | 0:49:10 | |
get in the air and we're off. | 0:49:10 | 0:49:11 | |
Quite a strange thing, to keep running on the edge... | 0:49:11 | 0:49:14 | |
Not natural, but that's what you have to do. | 0:49:14 | 0:49:18 | |
'As I'm not an experienced paraglider, I won't be doing this jump solo. | 0:49:18 | 0:49:22 | |
'I'll be secured to Mark and will fly tandem, so I can enjoy the view.' | 0:49:22 | 0:49:26 | |
-Ready? -Ready. | 0:49:26 | 0:49:27 | |
MARK SHOUTS ENCOURAGEMENT | 0:49:27 | 0:49:29 | |
Keep running, keep running! | 0:49:33 | 0:49:35 | |
BEN WHOOPS | 0:49:38 | 0:49:40 | |
BEN LAUGHS | 0:49:44 | 0:49:46 | |
That's so cool. | 0:49:46 | 0:49:48 | |
That's nice. That's good. | 0:49:49 | 0:49:52 | |
Woo, this is fast! | 0:50:13 | 0:50:15 | |
This is amazing! | 0:50:21 | 0:50:24 | |
Oh, wow! | 0:50:25 | 0:50:27 | |
Look ahead. | 0:50:28 | 0:50:30 | |
-Keep my legs bent? -Yeah. OK. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:33 | |
Now. Run, run, run. | 0:50:33 | 0:50:35 | |
Well done, Ben. Well done. | 0:50:39 | 0:50:41 | |
Right, just stop there. | 0:50:41 | 0:50:44 | |
Fantastic. | 0:50:44 | 0:50:46 | |
We're there. That's it. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:48 | |
Whoa. | 0:51:01 | 0:51:02 | |
Well, I'm not quite Tom Cruise in Top Gun, | 0:51:02 | 0:51:05 | |
but I feel like it. That was incredible. | 0:51:05 | 0:51:08 | |
I began this journey on the Heights of Abraham, | 0:51:08 | 0:51:12 | |
and I've ended it here, on the bottom of Shining Tor, | 0:51:12 | 0:51:15 | |
with my feet firmly on the ground. | 0:51:15 | 0:51:18 | |
It's been a fascinating journey, | 0:51:18 | 0:51:20 | |
where I've discovered how the people of Derbyshire | 0:51:20 | 0:51:22 | |
have kept the rich traditions and heritage of the Peak District alive. | 0:51:22 | 0:51:26 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media | 0:51:41 | 0:51:43 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:51:43 | 0:51:46 |