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Today I'm on a wild Welsh journey across a strip of land | 0:00:19 | 0:00:23 | |
that points out towards Ireland. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:26 | |
That is the Lleyn Peninsula. | 0:00:26 | 0:00:28 | |
My journey starts on the far east of the peninsula with a climb up | 0:00:33 | 0:00:38 | |
to the mysterious remains of an ancient civilisation. | 0:00:38 | 0:00:42 | |
'Then it's a stunning drive north to the granite quarries | 0:00:43 | 0:00:47 | |
'and the village of Nant Gwrtheyrn, abandoned, but now reincarnated as a Welsh language school.' | 0:00:47 | 0:00:53 | |
FALTERING WELSH | 0:00:53 | 0:00:55 | |
SHE REPLIES | 0:00:58 | 0:01:00 | |
'After that, I'll be travelling from Pwllheli to the very tip of the peninsula with Iolo Williams | 0:01:00 | 0:01:06 | |
'in search of some very special birds.' | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
They circle around, they bounce up and down. I'm convinced that they do it just for fun, | 0:01:09 | 0:01:15 | |
just because they can. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:17 | |
'I end my journey at Aberdaron, the last village west before Ireland, | 0:01:18 | 0:01:23 | |
'a place of travellers and pilgrims. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:25 | |
'And Dr Alice Roberts descends into a Bronze Age world.' | 0:01:25 | 0:01:30 | |
I've just taken my helmet off so I can get through this hole. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:34 | |
I'm not looking forward to it! | 0:01:35 | 0:01:37 | |
It's really, really narrow. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:40 | |
Along the way, I'll be looking back at the best BBC rural programmes from this part of the world. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:48 | |
Welcome to Country Tracks. | 0:01:48 | 0:01:50 | |
The Lleyn Peninsula is a remote region in north Wales of great wilderness and beauty. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:56 | |
It extends 30 miles into the Irish Sea. | 0:01:56 | 0:02:00 | |
And for most of its length, it's only eight miles wide. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:07 | |
'This is Garn Bentyrch. It commands great views over the landscape | 0:02:11 | 0:02:15 | |
'and it's a physical link with our ancient ancestry. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:19 | |
'It's a bit of a climb, so thanks to a very kind farmer we've hitched a lift.' | 0:02:25 | 0:02:32 | |
This wild corner of Wales may appear isolated, | 0:02:32 | 0:02:36 | |
and I can't see a lot of houses, let alone villages and towns, | 0:02:36 | 0:02:40 | |
but it hasn't always been the case. | 0:02:40 | 0:02:43 | |
'Around 2,500 years ago, during the Iron Age, | 0:02:47 | 0:02:51 | |
'the Peninsula was hot property. | 0:02:51 | 0:02:53 | |
'Enormous hill forts were built on its peaks and anything from a few hundred to a few thousand people | 0:02:53 | 0:02:59 | |
'made their homes in this harsh, windswept terrain. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:03 | |
'You can still see the remains of these fascinating settlements. | 0:03:05 | 0:03:09 | |
'It may not reveal much to you or I, but archaeologists like Kate Waddington and Prof Raimund Karl | 0:03:09 | 0:03:15 | |
'can learn a lot from what's left.' | 0:03:15 | 0:03:18 | |
And here it is. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:21 | |
-What is this remains here? -OK, it's a settlement, | 0:03:29 | 0:03:34 | |
a very large, monumental settlement from the first millennium BC. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
We do know they were really important places to communities | 0:03:38 | 0:03:43 | |
and they were continually inhabited for over 1,000 years, which reveals how important this place was. | 0:03:43 | 0:03:49 | |
That brings me on to this question. It's not huge, the Peninsula. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:53 | |
Why was it so heavily settled? | 0:03:53 | 0:03:55 | |
It does control a very important area, | 0:03:55 | 0:04:00 | |
very good land for agriculture. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:02 | |
And it sits in a very dominant position, so it controls the area, | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
both strategically and also economically. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:11 | |
It's an important area to control. There was a lot going on in the Iron Age. | 0:04:11 | 0:04:16 | |
-The higher the better, was it? -Yeah. And the bigger the better. -It's also about being seen. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:22 | |
You're also being seen from below so you're a constant visual and physical presence in the landscape | 0:04:22 | 0:04:30 | |
so the people know, "We belong together, this is our big site." | 0:04:30 | 0:04:34 | |
OK, let me show you this because this is very interesting here. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:56 | |
-Oh, what's this? -As you've seen, much of this has tumbled, | 0:04:58 | 0:05:02 | |
but this bit shows how the original fort might have looked like. | 0:05:02 | 0:05:07 | |
You can see that this is a well-preserved dry-stone facing. | 0:05:07 | 0:05:11 | |
Quite well built and nicely laid out. That is how one needs to imagine the whole inner stone ring | 0:05:11 | 0:05:18 | |
looked like on the outside when it originally was built. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:23 | |
Kate, it feels so cold up here. How would they have made it feel cosy and homely? | 0:05:23 | 0:05:28 | |
We've got to imagine that in the Iron Age period this was not just an enclosure, | 0:05:28 | 0:05:35 | |
but inside was a settlement inhabited by people. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:39 | |
They would have built roundhouses made out of timber or stone. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:43 | |
And within the centre of the roundhouse would be a hearth | 0:05:43 | 0:05:48 | |
so people would be burning a fire. | 0:05:48 | 0:05:51 | |
Why would a settlement like this have been abandoned? | 0:05:51 | 0:05:55 | |
Many of these sites are mainly, chiefly abandoned towards the end of the Iron Age, | 0:05:55 | 0:06:01 | |
roughly when the Romans come here. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:03 | |
So there might be a shift of communities. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:07 | |
Many of these sites, presumably, were associated with some kind of social elite. | 0:06:07 | 0:06:13 | |
The elite basically became Roman, Romanised, and moved to, effectively, Roman villas | 0:06:13 | 0:06:19 | |
or Roman towns or to the Roman forts. | 0:06:19 | 0:06:23 | |
There are Roman forts in the area. Caernarfon isn't that far away. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:27 | |
That might have been a reason for them to basically say, | 0:06:27 | 0:06:31 | |
"Let's leave these old things now and move to these new Roman things." | 0:06:31 | 0:06:35 | |
This is an amazing site. Not many people, I imagine, know about it or get to see it. | 0:06:35 | 0:06:41 | |
-Is that a good thing? -Well, I'm a bit split about this. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:45 | |
It is, in a sense, very good for its preservation. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:49 | |
The fewer people that come up here, the less it's damaged. | 0:06:49 | 0:06:53 | |
It is a lot of tumble, so stones can get further dislocated quite easily. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:58 | |
On the other hand, it's a brilliant site and there are many here, | 0:06:58 | 0:07:03 | |
so in a sense it's a shame that not more people come up here. In a sense, it's a hidden gem. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:10 | |
'And it wasn't just the people of the Iron Age who saw great potential in the landscapes here. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:21 | |
'1,000 years before this hill fort was built, a huge discovery was made further up the coast in Llandudno. | 0:07:21 | 0:07:27 | |
Over there on that headland is the Graig Lwyd axe factory, | 0:07:32 | 0:07:36 | |
a Stone Age axe factory whose axes are found all over the UK and northern Europe. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:41 | |
And then one morning about 4,000 years ago, everybody wakes up and it's the Bronze Age, | 0:07:41 | 0:07:47 | |
so they put down their stone tools and they start making sophisticated bronze tools instead. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:54 | |
Or did they? | 0:07:54 | 0:07:56 | |
When we talk about the Stone Age, the Bronze Age, the Iron Age, | 0:07:56 | 0:08:01 | |
it's as though we're meant to think of these people as being different, | 0:08:01 | 0:08:05 | |
that suddenly they forgot their skills, trade routes and beliefs. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:09 | |
But one thing is clear - something extraordinary did happen 4,000 years ago. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:14 | |
It's quite difficult to think about what a huge imaginative leap it was | 0:08:14 | 0:08:19 | |
to think that you can take a rock, heat it up and get metal out of it. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:24 | |
And it's not just that. If you take malachite and get copper out, | 0:08:24 | 0:08:29 | |
in order to make bronze, you have to add tin. Copper and tin aren't found in any old rocks. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:35 | |
These people are travellers and traders. They get their tin from, probably, Cornwall 200 miles away. | 0:08:35 | 0:08:41 | |
For copper, they came here to the Great Orme, the biggest prehistoric copper mine in the world. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:48 | |
'Just a few years ago, vast underground caverns were discovered below the Orme's surface.' | 0:08:48 | 0:08:54 | |
Just come and have a look at this. | 0:08:54 | 0:08:57 | |
Oh, that's amazing! | 0:08:59 | 0:09:02 | |
-It's not a natural cave. -It's all been dug out by people. | 0:09:02 | 0:09:06 | |
It is absolutely massive. | 0:09:06 | 0:09:09 | |
'My guide is Nick Jowett, one of the handful of people who excavated the ancient mines.' | 0:09:09 | 0:09:15 | |
-This is what it was all about. -Right. -The green we can see is malachite. Malachite is copper ore. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:20 | |
We don't find much of it as they were so good at mining. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:24 | |
These are the bits they discarded. | 0:09:24 | 0:09:27 | |
What was in this chamber must have been phenomenal. | 0:09:27 | 0:09:30 | |
'To give me a real sense of what Bronze or, should I say, Copper Age mining was about, | 0:09:33 | 0:09:39 | |
'Nick's kindly offered to take me where the public can't go. | 0:09:39 | 0:09:44 | |
'There's an estimated five miles of tunnels down here, | 0:09:44 | 0:09:48 | |
'each hand dug in search of the miraculous green copper ore. | 0:09:48 | 0:09:52 | |
'And Nick has recently discovered a new tunnel that no one has entered for 4,000 years. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:59 | |
'Just as well he's an expert pot holer and member of a cave rescue team.' | 0:09:59 | 0:10:04 | |
I've just taken my helmet off so I can get through this hole. | 0:10:04 | 0:10:09 | |
I'm not looking forward to it. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:12 | |
It's really, really narrow. | 0:10:12 | 0:10:15 | |
It defies belief that people were doing that 4,500 years ago down these caves, these tunnels. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:28 | |
That was a pretty narrow squeeze. They must have really wanted that ore. | 0:10:30 | 0:10:35 | |
-Over all the years they were doing it, how much ore do you think they mined out? -The estimates so far | 0:10:38 | 0:10:44 | |
suggest that perhaps around 1,700 tonnes of copper metal came out of this mine. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:50 | |
That quantity would be enough to make around 10 million metal axes. | 0:10:50 | 0:10:54 | |
-Oh, really? -An incredible quantity. | 0:10:54 | 0:10:57 | |
Yeah. | 0:10:57 | 0:10:58 | |
'But in the days before dynamite, what technology did Bronze Age miners have to extract the ore | 0:11:01 | 0:11:07 | |
'to create tunnels as well as the vast open-cast mine? The answer lies firmly back in the Stone Age.' | 0:11:07 | 0:11:13 | |
-This is a piece of a rib bone. -Yeah. -We can clearly see if we look at the end that it's worn and rounded. | 0:11:14 | 0:11:20 | |
-That's the evidence we have that these were used as tools. -Goodness. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:25 | |
-So that's been rounded by digging away... -That's it. | 0:11:25 | 0:11:29 | |
-..at the ground here. So all of that was dug out using implements like this? -That's it. | 0:11:29 | 0:11:35 | |
'Mining using metal tools would have been like using the family silver to dig the garden, | 0:11:37 | 0:11:43 | |
'so stone hammers and bone picks filled the toolbox, | 0:11:43 | 0:11:47 | |
'but the sheer quantity of tools found is staggering.' | 0:11:47 | 0:11:52 | |
This is one of our store rooms where we keep bones that we found. | 0:11:52 | 0:11:56 | |
Well, we've found about 37,000! | 0:12:00 | 0:12:02 | |
-If you want to have a look at them... -Lovely. Right. | 0:12:02 | 0:12:06 | |
'37,000 fragments of bone tools! I'm curious to know what they can tell us about the miners.' | 0:12:07 | 0:12:13 | |
It's rather small, but the idea is the scapula is used as shovels. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:18 | |
It's a nice sort of shovel shape. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
'Is there any human material here?' | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
It's not quite right, the curve of that. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:27 | |
I can see a tooth in here. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:30 | |
This is the tooth of a pig. | 0:12:30 | 0:12:33 | |
Oh. I was excited for a minute. | 0:12:35 | 0:12:38 | |
Most of these bone fragments are actually from cattle. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:43 | |
So domesticated species. We've also got sheep and goats. | 0:12:43 | 0:12:48 | |
So we know that they're farmers, | 0:12:48 | 0:12:51 | |
we know that they're pretty organised in what they're doing and getting a huge amount of ore out. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:57 | |
And we know what sort of tools they're using, what sort of animals they had living around them. | 0:12:57 | 0:13:03 | |
Is there any evidence of the people themselves? I got quite excited | 0:13:03 | 0:13:08 | |
because... there are some human bones. | 0:13:08 | 0:13:12 | |
This is a jaw, a mandible. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:14 | |
Some of the teeth have dropped out of their sockets. A few are still here - the canine and pre-molars. | 0:13:14 | 0:13:20 | |
He's got a very jutting out chin. Probably male. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:24 | |
This bone here is a collar bone or clavicle. | 0:13:24 | 0:13:28 | |
That's two human bone fragments among 37,000 fragments of animal bone. | 0:13:28 | 0:13:35 | |
'Looking back at what we've discovered, an extraordinary picture emerges. | 0:13:36 | 0:13:42 | |
'It's really odd to be up here on a rocky outcrop on the northernmost tip of Wales.' | 0:13:42 | 0:13:47 | |
Pretty much deserted today. Occasionally tourists, | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
but 4,000 years ago, this was at the centre of a revolution, | 0:13:51 | 0:13:56 | |
an industrial revolution. And this was a new society, the beginning of a new age. | 0:13:56 | 0:14:03 | |
Dr Alice Roberts on Great Orme. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:09 | |
I'm travelling along the Lleyn Peninsula in north Wales, through a vast expanse of open country. | 0:14:09 | 0:14:16 | |
The Peninsula just gets wilder as I drive along its northern coast to the village of Nant Gwrtheyrn. | 0:14:16 | 0:14:23 | |
I'm told that it's a tiny place hidden from view at the bottom of these really towering mountains. | 0:14:23 | 0:14:30 | |
So it's perhaps no surprise that Nant Gwrtheyrn was almost forgotten forever. | 0:14:30 | 0:14:36 | |
'It was built to house quarry workers in the late 1800s | 0:14:42 | 0:14:46 | |
'when Welsh granite was in high demand. Thousands of tonnes were quarried from these hillsides | 0:14:46 | 0:14:52 | |
'and shipped off to pave the streets of Manchester and Liverpool. | 0:14:52 | 0:14:57 | |
'But when the granite quarries closed, so did life in Nant Gwrtheyrn. | 0:14:57 | 0:15:02 | |
'The quarry men and their families moved away, their cottages were left at the mercy of the elements | 0:15:02 | 0:15:08 | |
'and the future of this place looked bleak. | 0:15:08 | 0:15:12 | |
'That was until 1971 and the arrival of a determined doctor | 0:15:12 | 0:15:18 | |
'who set about the reincarnation of Nant Gwrtheyrn. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:22 | |
'It's now a Welsh language school as well as a cultural centre.' | 0:15:22 | 0:15:26 | |
Carl, it's 40 years since you started this project. What made you take it on? | 0:15:28 | 0:15:33 | |
Well, I suppose my wife and I arrived in a nearby practice | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
in 1970 and we had one young child at the time. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:43 | |
We wanted to make our home in this very Welsh-speaking community, wanted my children to be Welsh-speaking. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:49 | |
Within the practice itself, day in, day out, one saw the consequences of severe depopulation. | 0:15:49 | 0:15:56 | |
This area supported all these granite quarries along the coast, which employed 2,000 men at its peak. | 0:15:56 | 0:16:03 | |
And as the quarries closed, the population moved away. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:08 | |
All the villages were in decline and that decline led to a lack of confidence in the community | 0:16:08 | 0:16:14 | |
and that manifested itself then in problems with health - | 0:16:14 | 0:16:19 | |
high blood pressure, depression and so on - | 0:16:19 | 0:16:23 | |
so it was an attempt in many ways to recreate the economy of the area. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:28 | |
It requires incredible vision to bring that together and, I imagine, an awful lot of work. | 0:16:28 | 0:16:35 | |
A huge amount of work. People questioned my sanity, as you can imagine. | 0:16:35 | 0:16:40 | |
"Why don't you do it somewhere else, far easier?" This village was in total ruin. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:46 | |
There were no roofs on many of the houses, no windows, no water, no electricity, | 0:16:46 | 0:16:52 | |
no road into the valley. It was in an extremely bad state. | 0:16:52 | 0:16:57 | |
And over a period of time, the word went out that we were serious, | 0:16:57 | 0:17:02 | |
people held their coffee mornings and their sponsored walks, corporates got interested. | 0:17:02 | 0:17:08 | |
It's a tribute in many ways to a lot of hard work by many thousands of people | 0:17:08 | 0:17:14 | |
throughout Wales and beyond who gave us the support we needed. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:19 | |
And had you not come along, can you imagine what it might be like? | 0:17:19 | 0:17:23 | |
I guess without the determination that we were able to show as a Trust at the time, | 0:17:23 | 0:17:29 | |
it could well have just disappeared into oblivion. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:33 | |
If I were to wander round these cottages back in 1890 and bump into one of the quarry workers, | 0:17:54 | 0:18:00 | |
the chances are we wouldn't have been able to have a conversation. | 0:18:00 | 0:18:04 | |
They were native Welsh speakers and many spoke no English at all. | 0:18:04 | 0:18:10 | |
'The Lleyn Peninsula remains a stronghold of the native language. | 0:18:10 | 0:18:15 | |
'More than 70% of people speak Welsh here, compared to 11% down in Cardiff.' | 0:18:15 | 0:18:21 | |
Nant Gwrtheyrn is now a Welsh language school for adults. 25,000 people have been students here | 0:18:23 | 0:18:30 | |
and since I've still got quite a way to go on my journey, I ought to at least learn some of the basics. | 0:18:30 | 0:18:36 | |
'Anwen Jones is my teacher. Welsh is her first language | 0:18:38 | 0:18:42 | |
'and she has family ties to the village.' Hello, Anwen. I don't even know how to greet you. | 0:18:42 | 0:18:48 | |
-It's terrible. So your great-grandfather worked here? -Yes. | 0:18:48 | 0:18:53 | |
My great-grandfather and grandmother lived down in the village | 0:18:53 | 0:18:58 | |
and he worked in the quarry. | 0:18:58 | 0:19:00 | |
My grandfather was born in the village, so I feel quite privileged to be working here with my heritage. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:07 | |
-Yeah, it's a special relationship, knowing the family circle. -Yes. | 0:19:07 | 0:19:12 | |
-And the Welsh language hasn't always been celebrated, has it? -No. | 0:19:12 | 0:19:17 | |
My grandfather used to tell me stories of how if you spoke Welsh in the classroom at school | 0:19:17 | 0:19:23 | |
they were made to stand in the back of the class, wearing a sign. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:28 | |
It was completely prohibited in the classrooms at that time. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
-They really tried to beat it out of the children. -Yes, really. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:37 | |
-Why is it so important to keep the language alive? -To be honest, it's part of our identity. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:43 | |
It's something you might not even question. We just speak Welsh. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:48 | |
It's something you may not realise the importance of until it's gone. | 0:19:48 | 0:19:52 | |
And it's all the cultural background of it as well in our society. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:57 | |
We're proud of our heritage and culture. | 0:19:57 | 0:20:00 | |
I'm going to be on a journey along the Lleyn Peninsula. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:04 | |
I feel like I ought to learn a few words. Can you help me with the basics? | 0:20:04 | 0:20:09 | |
-I can, indeed! -OK, good. | 0:20:09 | 0:20:12 | |
We could try...sut ydych chi? Which is, "How are you?" | 0:20:12 | 0:20:16 | |
-So sut... I got that bit. -Ydych. -Ydych. -Chi. -Chi. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:21 | |
-Sut ydych chi? -If you find that a struggle, just say, "Sut mae?" | 0:20:21 | 0:20:26 | |
-Definitely! -That's more colloquial. -Sut mae? | 0:20:26 | 0:20:30 | |
And that's, "How are you?" OK. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:33 | |
How would I say a greeting like, "Hello," or, "Good afternoon"? | 0:20:33 | 0:20:37 | |
-You could say...bore da for good morning. -Bore da. | 0:20:37 | 0:20:41 | |
-I think I've heard that one before. Bore da. -And you could say, "Good afternoon." Prynhawn da. | 0:20:41 | 0:20:48 | |
-Prynhawn da. -Good, Ellie. -Bore da. Prynhawn da. -Brilliant. | 0:20:48 | 0:20:53 | |
-Now manners - please and thank you. -Please is os gwelwch yn dda. -That's long for please! | 0:20:53 | 0:21:00 | |
-Maybe we should go to "thank you"! -No, I must know my pleases. | 0:21:00 | 0:21:04 | |
-My parents will insist. So it was an os... -Os gwelwch... | 0:21:04 | 0:21:09 | |
-Os gwelwch... -..yn dda. -..yn dda. | 0:21:09 | 0:21:12 | |
Os gwelwch yn dda. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:14 | |
-Brilliant. -It's not easy, though, is it? -No, but very good. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:20 | |
-Now my "thank you". -Diolch. -Diolch. | 0:21:20 | 0:21:23 | |
Or thank you very much - diolch yn fawr iawn. | 0:21:23 | 0:21:27 | |
-Just say, "Thank you"! -I'll just wave. Diolch... Sorry. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:33 | |
-Diolch... -Diolch... -..yn fawr... -..yn fawr... -..iawn. -..iawn. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:38 | |
Diolch yn fawr iawn. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:41 | |
My Welsh lesson with Anwen is going to come in handy now as I'll have a travelling companion. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:51 | |
He's a very proud Welshman and a pretty well-known face around here. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:57 | |
-PRACTISES WELSH -'His name is Iolo Williams. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:02 | |
'He's the David Attenborough of Wales and I'm off to meet him now. | 0:22:02 | 0:22:06 | |
'I've lived in Wales all my life. | 0:22:09 | 0:22:12 | |
'Through my work with wildlife, I've been lucky enough to have visited every part of the country | 0:22:12 | 0:22:18 | |
'and seen pretty much everything there is to see. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:23 | |
'But for me what makes Wales unique is that it's small enough to get to know it intimately | 0:22:33 | 0:22:40 | |
'yet big enough to always have a few surprises in store. | 0:22:41 | 0:22:46 | |
'Iolo loves this part of Wales and he's going to be my guide for the next part of my journey.' | 0:22:52 | 0:22:58 | |
Here we go, then. Prynhawn da. Sut mae, Iolo? | 0:22:58 | 0:23:03 | |
Hey, Ellie! Very, very good! | 0:23:03 | 0:23:06 | |
Well done. I understood all of that. Fantastic. | 0:23:06 | 0:23:09 | |
Because Welsh isn't easy to learn. | 0:23:09 | 0:23:12 | |
You're not kidding! It's really difficult. | 0:23:12 | 0:23:16 | |
If you're born into it, it's simple, but if you have to learn it, | 0:23:16 | 0:23:20 | |
with all the "ll" and "wr" and everything, it's very difficult. | 0:23:20 | 0:23:24 | |
-Well done, you. -Thank you. As an English girl, I'll take my two words as semi-fluent. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:31 | |
Now if you take a left here, go down that lane over there, well, across over there, | 0:23:32 | 0:23:38 | |
the first port of call is the town of Pwllheli. | 0:23:38 | 0:23:42 | |
I want to show you something quite spectacular here. | 0:23:42 | 0:23:47 | |
'Pwllheli is a seaside town on the south coast of the Peninsula. | 0:23:50 | 0:23:53 | |
'At the height of the summer season, it's crawling with holidaymakers | 0:23:53 | 0:23:58 | |
'and I have my doubts about seeing much wildlife here.' | 0:23:58 | 0:24:02 | |
It doesn't scream beauty spot. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:04 | |
No, it's not, admittedly, | 0:24:04 | 0:24:07 | |
but this is the best place I know to come and see grey herons. | 0:24:07 | 0:24:13 | |
-There's a pair up on a nest. -Oh, straight out of the car! | 0:24:13 | 0:24:17 | |
Straight out the car and there they are. Big, big birds. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:21 | |
What I really like about this place is you're in the middle of a town. | 0:24:21 | 0:24:26 | |
-A really busy road. -Very busy road. The herons pay no notice whatsoever so they're used to people. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:32 | |
And the other big advantage is that usually herons nest right up in the tops of the tallest trees. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:38 | |
It's the only place I know where you can watch the whole heron breeding cycle as it goes on, | 0:24:38 | 0:24:44 | |
like sitting at home in an armchair turning on the TV and watching them. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:48 | |
-You didn't even have to leave the car! -No, you don't. | 0:24:48 | 0:24:52 | |
-It is a veritable soap opera. -Absolutely fantastic. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:56 | |
They are stunning birds and very prehistoric-looking birds, like from thousands of years ago. | 0:24:56 | 0:25:03 | |
They look like they don't belong so high up because they're so big. | 0:25:03 | 0:25:08 | |
It is odd. Huge nest, huge bird, surely they're ground-nesting? But they're not. | 0:25:08 | 0:25:13 | |
They nest right up in the tops of the tallest trees. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:16 | |
Their courtship displays are quite impressive, too. Dancing, a lot of noise... | 0:25:16 | 0:25:22 | |
A lot of noises. They do this cronking noise, a real coarse noise. | 0:25:22 | 0:25:26 | |
And then when one arrives back on the nest, they greet each other with a little bit of billing, | 0:25:26 | 0:25:34 | |
-almost like a head dance. -And nest building at the moment. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:38 | |
Yeah, he'll bring back sticks for her. Great big sticks in the beak. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:42 | |
It looks like a metre rule. | 0:25:42 | 0:25:45 | |
He'll come back with that, hand it to her and she adds it to the nest and gets it just so, | 0:25:45 | 0:25:51 | |
-just as she wants it. -Indeed. -Very important, that, that he makes her a very happy lady. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:58 | |
Other than herons in "Porth-heli"... | 0:25:58 | 0:26:01 | |
It's Pwllheli. Pwll means pool, heli means salt. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:05 | |
So salty pool, Pwllheli. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:08 | |
OK. So other than herons here, what else can we see, wildlife-wise? | 0:26:08 | 0:26:12 | |
Well, it's got a vast array, fantastic array of all kinds of wildlife, coastland, inland. | 0:26:12 | 0:26:19 | |
-The further west you go, the better it gets. That's where we're going - going west. -Fantastic. OK. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:25 | |
'Iolo and I are heading off in search of wilderness and rare birds, | 0:26:30 | 0:26:35 | |
'but here in Pwllheli, every summer these roads are clogged with people. | 0:26:35 | 0:26:40 | |
'Pwllheli is home to one of Britain's most famous resorts. | 0:26:40 | 0:26:44 | |
'Thousands of campers have happy memories of Butlins. Comedian Les Dennis is one of them.' | 0:26:44 | 0:26:52 | |
I was born on 12th October, 1953, in Garston in Liverpool. | 0:26:53 | 0:26:58 | |
One of five kids. We were a typical working-class family. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:03 | |
In 1961, miraculously, | 0:27:03 | 0:27:05 | |
my dad won the pools. It was fantastic. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:09 | |
It wasn't exactly a fortune - £620 - | 0:27:09 | 0:27:12 | |
but it was enough for us to afford our first holiday, | 0:27:12 | 0:27:16 | |
out here at Butlins in Pwllheli in the beautiful north Wales countryside. | 0:27:16 | 0:27:22 | |
'Good morning, campers. Whatever the weather, every day is fine at Butlins.' | 0:27:29 | 0:27:35 | |
This is fantastic. Very luxurious, but it's not what I remember. | 0:27:41 | 0:27:45 | |
There were just lines of little chalets. Beautiful little chalets like prefabricated houses. | 0:27:45 | 0:27:51 | |
We were very close. It's important to know that in Liverpool, everybody is "our". | 0:27:55 | 0:28:00 | |
Our Marg, our Mandy, our Ken, and me mum and me dad. | 0:28:00 | 0:28:05 | |
For kids from Liverpool, this was so exciting. All the funfair rides were free. You could stay on all day. | 0:28:08 | 0:28:14 | |
The boating lake here, no one ever said, "Come in, Number Seven." You stayed out as long as you wanted. | 0:28:14 | 0:28:21 | |
And every year, without fail, our Ken, in his best holiday shirt, | 0:28:21 | 0:28:25 | |
on day one - splosh! Right into the pond. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:29 | |
'It was on this beach that I first saw the evidence of my dad as a sportsman.' | 0:28:32 | 0:28:37 | |
He was a really quiet guy. As a young man, he played for Blackburn Rovers, Tranmere | 0:28:37 | 0:28:43 | |
and my beloved Liverpool FC in 1936. | 0:28:43 | 0:28:45 | |
But although we knew that, we didn't really know how good he was until we played football here | 0:28:45 | 0:28:52 | |
and he was great, he was so nifty. He was an inside left and you could really see it. | 0:28:52 | 0:28:57 | |
He was a lovely, lovely man and he was great with us. | 0:28:57 | 0:29:02 | |
Although I loved the outdoor activities, | 0:29:05 | 0:29:08 | |
for me it was the theatre when the holiday really came to life. | 0:29:08 | 0:29:13 | |
And every night in the theatres there would be two shows. I came to see them both. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:20 | |
It was the first time that I saw real comedians live and I got that feel and love of stand-up. | 0:29:20 | 0:29:27 | |
My mum had had this chance as a teenager to be in a talent competition, | 0:29:28 | 0:29:33 | |
but she couldn't do it. She had to start in a factory the next day. | 0:29:33 | 0:29:38 | |
So she saw in me a talent that she'd had | 0:29:38 | 0:29:41 | |
and she encouraged me. She got me my first audition here at Butlins for the talent competition. | 0:29:41 | 0:29:48 | |
I went into it, didn't get through the first heat. | 0:29:48 | 0:29:52 | |
I was rubbish! But the next year I came back and got an act together and got third place. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:58 | |
I kept coming back every year. That's why we came back, so I could go into the talent competitions. | 0:29:58 | 0:30:04 | |
So for me the magic of being onstage began here, on this very stage. | 0:30:05 | 0:30:11 | |
As soon as I left school, I started in show business. I worked hard | 0:30:11 | 0:30:16 | |
and eventually I got what, to me, was a dream come true - a summer season with Jimmy Tarbuck. | 0:30:16 | 0:30:22 | |
And I was absolutely thrilled. The one person I wanted to tell was my mum, | 0:30:22 | 0:30:28 | |
but she'd died of cancer a few months before that and I couldn't tell her. | 0:30:28 | 0:30:34 | |
I know that she's there watching me now and saying, "You did it, lad." | 0:30:34 | 0:30:39 | |
And that's why it's lovely for me to come back here, to sit on this stage where it all began for me. | 0:30:40 | 0:30:47 | |
I can almost see my family out there, my mum and dad, sitting and clapping the loudest. | 0:30:47 | 0:30:53 | |
'Les Dennis remembering Butlins at Pwllheli. | 0:30:56 | 0:30:59 | |
'Iolo and I are making the most of low tourist season | 0:30:59 | 0:31:04 | |
'by taking a walk along a deserted Welsh beach.' | 0:31:04 | 0:31:09 | |
What was it that got you interested in wildlife in the first place? | 0:31:09 | 0:31:13 | |
As far back as I can remember, Ellie, I've been fascinated by all kinds of wildlife. | 0:31:13 | 0:31:19 | |
I remember as a lad of four finding a woodpigeon's nest with two eggs in it | 0:31:19 | 0:31:25 | |
and thinking, "Poor old bird needs more eggs." I got some hen's eggs, | 0:31:25 | 0:31:29 | |
and put them all around these eggs. The poor pigeon must have come back and thought, "What's going on?!" | 0:31:29 | 0:31:36 | |
From as far back as I can remember, I've just been fascinated by it | 0:31:36 | 0:31:40 | |
-and I love the fact that I can live to be 1,000 years old and still wouldn't know the half of it. -Yeah. | 0:31:40 | 0:31:47 | |
-Have you lived in Wales all your life? -More or less, yeah. I left briefly to go to college in London, | 0:31:47 | 0:31:53 | |
but then came back. Wales means a lot to me. | 0:31:53 | 0:31:57 | |
It's where I was born, brought up, where I've got deep roots. | 0:31:57 | 0:32:01 | |
So I'll leave it in a box and even then be buried in the ground. I'm not going to leave Wales. | 0:32:01 | 0:32:07 | |
-A Welshman through and through. If I cut you in half, it'll say Wales! -Like a piece of rock! -Exactly. | 0:32:07 | 0:32:14 | |
'Iolo's homeland has no shortage of landscapes | 0:32:14 | 0:32:18 | |
'and none are more imposing than Snowdonia. | 0:32:18 | 0:32:22 | |
'Here, high in the mountains, he has tracked down all kinds of flora and fauna.' | 0:32:22 | 0:32:27 | |
-It's very clear on a day like this. -Magnificent. | 0:32:30 | 0:32:34 | |
You'll always see ravens high up on the mountains. It's their natural habitat. | 0:32:34 | 0:32:40 | |
And these may well roost at night on Anglesey in Newborough Forest. | 0:32:40 | 0:32:45 | |
'But we haven't climbed up all the way here to see a raven. | 0:32:49 | 0:32:54 | |
'Hywel walks many miles on these dangerous slopes, looking for wildlife, | 0:32:57 | 0:33:02 | |
'and he's found something very special on a rock facing the sun.' | 0:33:02 | 0:33:06 | |
-This is it, the purple saxifrage? -Indeed, yes. | 0:33:06 | 0:33:10 | |
Very bright colours, beautiful. The petals are a bright purple colour. | 0:33:10 | 0:33:15 | |
What you've got here as well is the tight clusters of leaves. | 0:33:15 | 0:33:20 | |
Do you know, of all of them, because you've got mossy saxifrage, starry saxifrage, | 0:33:20 | 0:33:26 | |
this is my favourite because this is the kind of skinhead of the Arctic alpines. | 0:33:26 | 0:33:32 | |
It comes out in February, March, when you've got ice and snow, | 0:33:32 | 0:33:37 | |
-so this is the real hard one. -A tough guy, this one. | 0:33:37 | 0:33:41 | |
Of course, the term saxifrage itself means they're tough creatures. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:46 | |
They are literally breaking the rocks, rock breakers. | 0:33:46 | 0:33:50 | |
Here, where they're growing there's dark rock, which is slightly less acidic than the general rock | 0:33:50 | 0:33:56 | |
and there's just that little bit more nutrients there released into the rock, which they want. | 0:33:56 | 0:34:03 | |
The other thing Arctic alpine plants want is altitude and the right aspect for the cold. | 0:34:03 | 0:34:09 | |
They're relatively high up here, about 500 metres above sea level. | 0:34:09 | 0:34:13 | |
Today we're fortunate to be facing the sun, getting the best of it, so it's had an early start here. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:21 | |
Having said that, though, we are late in the year this year for it flowering, | 0:34:21 | 0:34:26 | |
a month to six weeks later because of the exceptionally hard winter. | 0:34:26 | 0:34:31 | |
And it's the only bit of colour here. If you look around you, | 0:34:31 | 0:34:35 | |
the grass has all died back from the hard winter | 0:34:35 | 0:34:39 | |
and the only bit of colour, of purple, is this one little flower. | 0:34:39 | 0:34:43 | |
-A gem. -It is a gem. -It's something to raise the spirits at the end of winter. Spring is here for me. | 0:34:43 | 0:34:50 | |
'This is Cwm Nantcol in the Rhinogydd Mountains and I'm tracking some even more elusive mammals. | 0:34:54 | 0:35:01 | |
'They're wild goats. | 0:35:05 | 0:35:08 | |
'You can spot them quite easily, | 0:35:11 | 0:35:14 | |
'but if you try and get near them, they keep on moving. | 0:35:15 | 0:35:20 | |
'It's thought that these uplands have the greatest wild goat population per hectare in the UK. | 0:35:23 | 0:35:30 | |
'That may be so, | 0:35:30 | 0:35:33 | |
'but it's hard work tracking them.' | 0:35:34 | 0:35:37 | |
I've been following these goats all morning. | 0:35:43 | 0:35:46 | |
They've given me the run-around, but I've finally caught up with them. | 0:35:46 | 0:35:51 | |
They're in rut, they're fighting. There are three big billies there. | 0:35:51 | 0:35:55 | |
They have the huge, flat horns. And they've got five or six nannies with smaller, spiral horns. | 0:35:55 | 0:36:03 | |
Every now and again, they'll stop, fight and the dominant billy will mate with all of those nannies. | 0:36:03 | 0:36:09 | |
But they're well-equipped for life out here. I'm here in my gear, | 0:36:09 | 0:36:13 | |
but they're much faster. The go over these rocks using their hooves | 0:36:13 | 0:36:18 | |
and they've got this thick coat to keep out the worst of winter, rain and cold. Amazing animals. | 0:36:18 | 0:36:24 | |
Superbly well-adapted for this mountain environment. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:28 | |
Wild goats are not true wild animals. | 0:36:28 | 0:36:30 | |
They're feral. | 0:36:30 | 0:36:32 | |
Some of the goats may be derived from domestic goats. The rest escaped during 19th-century land clearances. | 0:36:33 | 0:36:39 | |
Others may even be derived from much earlier stock and possibly date back to the Ice Age. | 0:36:41 | 0:36:47 | |
There may be as many as 500 goats on these mountains. | 0:36:49 | 0:36:54 | |
During winter, some can become a nuisance. | 0:36:56 | 0:37:01 | |
They move down the valley to browse and that's often in someone's back garden. | 0:37:01 | 0:37:07 | |
But here in the uplands, they're a wonderful addition to this rugged landscape | 0:37:07 | 0:37:13 | |
and during the autumn rut they put on an incredible show. | 0:37:13 | 0:37:17 | |
'I'm on a journey along the Lleyn Peninsula in north Wales. | 0:37:38 | 0:37:42 | |
'I started on Garn Bentyrch exploring an Iron Age hill fort. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:46 | |
'I drove through the stunning scenery along the northern coast | 0:37:46 | 0:37:50 | |
'and took a Welsh lesson at Nant Gwrtheyrn. I then headed south to Pwllheli to meet Iolo Williams | 0:37:50 | 0:37:56 | |
'before driving along the southern edge to the very end of the road. | 0:37:56 | 0:38:01 | |
'The tip of the Lleyn is a good place to find a beautiful coastal bird called a chough. | 0:38:04 | 0:38:10 | |
'Iolo is convinced we'll see some.' | 0:38:10 | 0:38:13 | |
-Does this look like a good spot? -This should be ideal. | 0:38:15 | 0:38:19 | |
We're facing the sun here so it's all warmed up for them. They aim for the short turf, | 0:38:19 | 0:38:25 | |
these grassy bits between the gorse and the rocks. And they could come anywhere, | 0:38:25 | 0:38:31 | |
-all along this bank. -There's a wide area! -It is. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:35 | |
-How are their numbers doing? -Well, two stories in Wales. | 0:38:35 | 0:38:40 | |
Inland, not so well. We do have some inland pairs in mid-Wales. They're all gone now. | 0:38:40 | 0:38:46 | |
The few inland pairs we have are now confined to the high mountains of north Wales, | 0:38:46 | 0:38:52 | |
where they'll feed on areas like this - short turf, acid. | 0:38:52 | 0:38:56 | |
They'll nest in old mines, mine shafts, mind buildings, too. | 0:38:56 | 0:39:00 | |
But in coastal areas, they're doing very well. Particularly here. | 0:39:00 | 0:39:04 | |
This is one of the best places in the whole of the UK. | 0:39:04 | 0:39:08 | |
-I've seen flocks of 30, 40 birds here. -Wow. | 0:39:08 | 0:39:12 | |
It is a really good spot. There are always, always choughs here. | 0:39:12 | 0:39:18 | |
-Fantastic. -So we will see them, but keep your eyes and ears open. | 0:39:18 | 0:39:22 | |
-They've got this unique call. Kyee-ah! -Kyee-ah! | 0:39:22 | 0:39:27 | |
-There you go. Hear that and you know it's chough! -Will you hear them before you see them? -Yes, usually. | 0:39:27 | 0:39:33 | |
Because although they're not shy birds, they nearly always tuck behind a little hill. | 0:39:33 | 0:39:39 | |
BIRDS CRY | 0:39:39 | 0:39:41 | |
'Well, I've heard a chough, but still haven't seen one. Iolo won't give up easily, so we move on.' | 0:39:41 | 0:39:48 | |
-What a view! -This should be a good patch. You can see again this short turf. | 0:39:56 | 0:40:03 | |
-It's used a lot by choughs. If we sit here and watch and wait... -We'll surely see one. | 0:40:03 | 0:40:09 | |
I think we will. And probably around these rocks and maybe a little bit further down. | 0:40:09 | 0:40:14 | |
We should see some choughs. | 0:40:14 | 0:40:17 | |
'At last, there's a chough.' | 0:40:17 | 0:40:20 | |
They are fantastic birds, cracking birds. | 0:40:20 | 0:40:23 | |
When you see them in the air like this, they're just true masters of the aerial environment. | 0:40:23 | 0:40:30 | |
I always look at them and think scientists say when a bird goes from A to B there's got to be a reason. | 0:40:30 | 0:40:37 | |
If it's going to expend that energy, there has to be a reason, to feed. | 0:40:37 | 0:40:41 | |
But when you watch choughs up in the air, they circle around, bounce, | 0:40:41 | 0:40:46 | |
-I'm convinced that they do it just for fun, just because they can. -It's not a good use of energy! | 0:40:46 | 0:40:52 | |
I'm sure there's no reason, other than the fact, "Hey, let's go and fly," because it's fun. | 0:40:52 | 0:40:59 | |
'Just two miles across the Sound lies the holy island of Bardsey. | 0:41:06 | 0:41:11 | |
'Known as the island of 20,000 saints, it's been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. | 0:41:11 | 0:41:17 | |
'Welsh opera singer Bryn Terfel made his own musical pilgrimage, | 0:41:17 | 0:41:22 | |
'a piano not far behind him, to fulfil a dream of singing in the island's chapel.' | 0:41:22 | 0:41:29 | |
And a welcoming committee. | 0:41:35 | 0:41:37 | |
'Right up until the middle of the 20th century, the island had a substantial population, | 0:41:46 | 0:41:51 | |
'capable of supporting a school and a Methodist chapel, | 0:41:51 | 0:41:56 | |
'but there are now only a handful of permanent residents. Among them is the poet Christine Evans.' | 0:41:56 | 0:42:02 | |
Tell me about the name Ynys Enlli. | 0:42:02 | 0:42:05 | |
Ynys Enlli, in Welsh, can mean | 0:42:05 | 0:42:07 | |
"island in the current" or "island in the tide" | 0:42:07 | 0:42:11 | |
and it is a very difficult place to get to. Even with modern boats, | 0:42:11 | 0:42:16 | |
about a third of all crossings are cancelled for bad weather. You're lucky to be here! | 0:42:16 | 0:42:21 | |
In English, of course, it's called Bardsey and has been since at least 1188 | 0:42:21 | 0:42:27 | |
when Giraldus Cambrensis wrote on his tour through Wales about it. | 0:42:27 | 0:42:32 | |
And that's taken to mean "the island of Barder" who was a Viking chieftain. | 0:42:32 | 0:42:39 | |
'Christine has brought me through the rain to the spiritual heart of the island - | 0:42:40 | 0:42:46 | |
'the ruins of the medieval abbey that once welcomed thousands upon thousands of pilgrims.' | 0:42:46 | 0:42:52 | |
-So are there really 20,000 saints buried on the island? -I don't think anyone's ever counted them, Bryn, | 0:42:52 | 0:42:58 | |
but certainly over 1,000 years it doesn't seem too many. | 0:42:58 | 0:43:02 | |
I think it was partly because of the tradition that if you died here or on the way to the island, | 0:43:02 | 0:43:10 | |
and you lived a holy life, your soul wouldn't go to hell. | 0:43:10 | 0:43:14 | |
That was a great thing in the Middle Ages when they were tormented by visions of that place. | 0:43:14 | 0:43:20 | |
Even in the 21st century, there's a feeling of peace and tranquillity and spirituality. | 0:43:20 | 0:43:26 | |
We're surrounded by people who came here to die and to be buried. That gives it something extra. | 0:43:26 | 0:43:33 | |
'Ever since my first visit, I've always wanted to sing in the chapel on Bardsey. | 0:43:33 | 0:43:39 | |
'Franz Schubert's Litany for the Feast of All Souls could have been written for this wonderful island | 0:43:39 | 0:43:45 | |
'of saints and pilgrims. | 0:43:45 | 0:43:48 | |
'But first there was the small matter of getting a piano to the island!' | 0:43:48 | 0:43:52 | |
# Ruh'n in Frieden | 0:43:56 | 0:44:02 | |
# Alle Seelen | 0:44:02 | 0:44:09 | |
# Die vollbracht | 0:44:11 | 0:44:16 | |
# Ein banges Qualen | 0:44:16 | 0:44:24 | |
# Die vollendet | 0:44:24 | 0:44:29 | |
# Sussen Traum | 0:44:29 | 0:44:36 | |
# Lebenssatt | 0:44:36 | 0:44:40 | |
# Geboren kaum | 0:44:40 | 0:44:44 | |
# Aus der Welt | 0:44:45 | 0:44:48 | |
# Hinuberschieden | 0:44:48 | 0:44:55 | |
# Alle Seelen | 0:44:58 | 0:45:05 | |
# Ruh'n | 0:45:05 | 0:45:08 | |
# In Frieden... | 0:45:08 | 0:45:15 | |
TRANSLATED FROM GERMAN: | 0:45:41 | 0:45:43 | |
Bryn Terfel bringing music to Bardsey, an island which remains of great spiritual importance. | 0:47:41 | 0:47:48 | |
And so does this place - Aberdaron. | 0:47:49 | 0:47:51 | |
It's a small village perched on a gusty extremity of Britain. | 0:47:51 | 0:47:56 | |
It's pretty wild and remote and played an important part in the religious life of Wales. | 0:47:56 | 0:48:02 | |
In a moment, I'll find out about the hazards of medieval pilgrimage | 0:48:02 | 0:48:06 | |
and why modern-day pilgrims come here in search of poetry, but first here's the weather forecast. | 0:48:06 | 0:48:13 | |
. | 0:49:50 | 0:49:57 | |
Today's journey has taken me down the length of | 0:50:07 | 0:50:09 | |
the Lleyn Peninsula in North Wales. | 0:50:09 | 0:50:11 | |
From the Iron Age hill fort at Garn Bentyrch | 0:50:11 | 0:50:15 | |
to the Welsh-language school at Nant Gwrtheyrn, | 0:50:15 | 0:50:18 | |
south to Pwllheli and on to the cliff tops near Uwchmynydd. | 0:50:18 | 0:50:22 | |
I've now reached Aberdaron, one of Britain's remotest villages. | 0:50:22 | 0:50:27 | |
It's home to about 1,000 people but, at the height of summer, | 0:50:29 | 0:50:33 | |
there can be ten times that number. | 0:50:33 | 0:50:35 | |
It's been on the tourist trail for centuries. | 0:50:35 | 0:50:39 | |
During the middle ages, | 0:50:44 | 0:50:45 | |
Aberdaron was regarded as a bit of a service station. | 0:50:45 | 0:50:48 | |
For travellers heading over to Ireland. | 0:50:48 | 0:50:50 | |
It was the last village west | 0:50:50 | 0:50:52 | |
and for those making a spiritual pilgrimage across the water | 0:50:52 | 0:50:55 | |
to the island of Bardsey, | 0:50:55 | 0:50:57 | |
it was the last glimpse of secular civilisation. | 0:50:57 | 0:51:00 | |
I've just come across this sign on a building | 0:51:02 | 0:51:05 | |
which says "Y Gegin fawr", which apparently means "the big kitchen". | 0:51:05 | 0:51:08 | |
It says... | 0:51:08 | 0:51:10 | |
..which says to me that only the saints | 0:51:15 | 0:51:17 | |
get a free meal with the voucher. Everyone else has to pay. | 0:51:17 | 0:51:20 | |
The village church of St Hywyn's may not be as famous as the old abbey on Bardsey | 0:51:24 | 0:51:29 | |
but it has developed a strong spiritual presence of its own. | 0:51:29 | 0:51:32 | |
Pilgrims often got stuck here due to the fierce winds howling around the peninsula. | 0:51:32 | 0:51:38 | |
There was no way a boat would make it safely to Bardsey, | 0:51:42 | 0:51:46 | |
so they stayed in Aberdaron, praying and waiting for a break in the weather. | 0:51:46 | 0:51:51 | |
They would have looked out to sea from this churchyard, | 0:51:57 | 0:52:00 | |
in the direction of the Island of 20,000 Saints, | 0:52:00 | 0:52:03 | |
eager to get to their final destination. | 0:52:03 | 0:52:06 | |
I think it must have been a pretty powerful feeling. | 0:52:06 | 0:52:09 | |
But modern-day pilgrims are in search of something quite different. | 0:52:14 | 0:52:18 | |
They come to pay homage to a poet. | 0:52:18 | 0:52:21 | |
There is an island | 0:52:21 | 0:52:24 | |
There is no going to but in a small boat | 0:52:24 | 0:52:28 | |
The way the saints went | 0:52:28 | 0:52:30 | |
Travelling the gallery of the frightened faces of the long-drowned | 0:52:30 | 0:52:36 | |
Munching the gravel at its beaches. | 0:52:36 | 0:52:39 | |
Those were the words of the late poet RS Thomas, | 0:52:40 | 0:52:44 | |
who was also vicar here at St Hywyn's. | 0:52:44 | 0:52:47 | |
They were read by the current reverend Jim Cotter, | 0:52:47 | 0:52:50 | |
who has inherited a parish from a poet. | 0:52:50 | 0:52:53 | |
Jim, who was RS Thomas? | 0:52:53 | 0:52:57 | |
RS Thomas was probably the greatest poet in Wales in the 20th century | 0:52:57 | 0:53:02 | |
writing in the English language. | 0:53:02 | 0:53:04 | |
I can't judge poetry in the Welsh language but certainly | 0:53:04 | 0:53:07 | |
he was nominated for the Nobel Prize for literature. | 0:53:07 | 0:53:10 | |
He didn't get it, but he was nominated | 0:53:10 | 0:53:12 | |
so he was very highly thought of in the literature world. | 0:53:12 | 0:53:15 | |
-I see. -And he kept on moving westwards throughout his adult life. | 0:53:15 | 0:53:20 | |
-He was brought up on Anglesey - Holyhead... -Yeah. | 0:53:20 | 0:53:24 | |
He started off near the English border at Chirk | 0:53:24 | 0:53:27 | |
and then, parish by parish, moved further west until he ended, | 0:53:27 | 0:53:33 | |
I think the last 12 years - 1967-1978 - | 0:53:33 | 0:53:37 | |
he was vicar of Aberdaron, here. | 0:53:37 | 0:53:39 | |
RS Thomas was obviously very well known and, to some, known as perhaps a bit of a grump or a recluse. | 0:53:39 | 0:53:46 | |
What did people think of him? | 0:53:46 | 0:53:48 | |
Er, yes, there's different feelings about him. | 0:53:48 | 0:53:52 | |
If you talk to people on the farms here, particularly, | 0:53:52 | 0:53:56 | |
I think you'll find people say he was a shy man | 0:53:56 | 0:54:00 | |
but he would come and do good by stealth. | 0:54:00 | 0:54:03 | |
He wore a huge...poacher's overcoat | 0:54:03 | 0:54:09 | |
with very capacious pockets inside. | 0:54:09 | 0:54:12 | |
He baked bread as a hobby and he would take loaves of bread and put them on the kitchen tables | 0:54:12 | 0:54:18 | |
-and visit those who were ill. -Oh, wow. | 0:54:18 | 0:54:20 | |
And he would sit with people quite companionably in the evening. | 0:54:20 | 0:54:24 | |
And there are a lot of people who remember that. | 0:54:24 | 0:54:28 | |
His more public persona was a bit grumpy and, rumour has it, | 0:54:28 | 0:54:33 | |
he would pretend not to speak English in August, so as not to speak to the tourists. | 0:54:33 | 0:54:38 | |
Are you a keen reader of his poetry? | 0:54:38 | 0:54:40 | |
I've always been attracted to his poetry and I read it...off and on, | 0:54:40 | 0:54:45 | |
-probably since...certainly since my 30s if not before. -Oh, right! | 0:54:45 | 0:54:51 | |
-So how was it when you came to this church? -That was a great gift. | 0:54:51 | 0:54:55 | |
It's interesting that, because now, 10, 11 years after his death, | 0:54:56 | 0:55:02 | |
there's beginning to be an RS Thomas industry - research students. | 0:55:02 | 0:55:06 | |
It's not a great flood of people but there's a continuous stream | 0:55:06 | 0:55:09 | |
of people coming down because of the RS Thomas connection now. | 0:55:09 | 0:55:13 | |
-Is that a good thing? -Yes. I think it's very good. | 0:55:13 | 0:55:18 | |
In his poem Pilgrimage, RS Thomas describes the perilous crossing to Bardsey. | 0:55:32 | 0:55:39 | |
It's a journey that fascinates me, too. | 0:55:39 | 0:55:41 | |
There is no body in the stained window of the sky now | 0:55:42 | 0:55:47 | |
Am I too late? | 0:55:47 | 0:55:49 | |
Were they too late, also Those first pilgrims? | 0:55:49 | 0:55:53 | |
He is such a fast God | 0:55:53 | 0:55:55 | |
Always before us And leaving as we arrive. | 0:55:55 | 0:56:00 | |
I can imagine the pilgrims reaching this point and seeing Bardsey just across the water | 0:56:02 | 0:56:07 | |
and thinking, "Yes! We've nearly made it." | 0:56:07 | 0:56:10 | |
They'd have launched their little boats from this inlet down here, | 0:56:10 | 0:56:13 | |
which is essentially a windy, rocky, wave-battered cove of danger. | 0:56:13 | 0:56:19 | |
To end my journey, I just had to catch a ride and get out on the water. | 0:56:28 | 0:56:33 | |
I can't help feeling those determined pilgrims, on their way to Bardsey, | 0:56:38 | 0:56:43 | |
rushed past the beauty and tranquillity of the Lleyn Peninsula. | 0:56:43 | 0:56:47 | |
Had they climbed to the hill-fort homes of their ancestors, | 0:56:47 | 0:56:51 | |
or lingered a while longer on the pretty coastal roads, | 0:56:51 | 0:56:54 | |
or even spent an afternoon gazing at the choughs | 0:56:54 | 0:56:57 | |
rising and falling on the breeze, | 0:56:57 | 0:56:59 | |
I wonder if Bardsey would have had quite so many visitors. | 0:56:59 | 0:57:03 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:57:14 | 0:57:17 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:57:17 | 0:57:21 |