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Today, I'm in the south-west of England | 0:00:20 | 0:00:23 | |
on a journey through the moorland landscape | 0:00:23 | 0:00:26 | |
and beautiful coastline of Exmoor. | 0:00:26 | 0:00:28 | |
'My journey starts in Dulverton | 0:00:38 | 0:00:41 | |
'where I'll find out how one of the region's iconic animals is being saved from the verge of extinction. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:47 | |
'I'll then head into the heart of the moors to track down a local legend - | 0:00:48 | 0:00:53 | |
'wildlife cameraman Johnny Kingdom.' | 0:00:53 | 0:00:56 | |
Just imagine if Mr Piggy comes, Mr Pig will be that big... | 0:00:56 | 0:01:00 | |
MAKES GRUNTING SOUNDS That'll be up there on my camera. | 0:01:00 | 0:01:05 | |
'I'll travel north to the coastal town of Lynmouth, the scene of Britain's worst post-war floods, | 0:01:05 | 0:01:10 | |
'discovering rumours of a sinister cause to this perhaps not so natural disaster.' | 0:01:10 | 0:01:15 | |
The sound of the river in full flood, the sound of the rocks crashing, it's frightening. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:21 | |
'Finally, as darkness falls, I'll head inland to Dunkery Hill, | 0:01:21 | 0:01:25 | |
'where I'll experience mountain biking as I've never experienced it before.' | 0:01:25 | 0:01:30 | |
Cycling while holding a camera is not easy on this terrain, but it's brilliant. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:35 | |
Along the way, I'll look back at some of the best BBC rural programmes | 0:01:37 | 0:01:42 | |
from this part of the country. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:44 | |
Welcome to Country Tracks. | 0:01:44 | 0:01:46 | |
Exmoor is a national park | 0:01:46 | 0:01:49 | |
whose 694 square kilometres of land straddle Somerset and North Devon. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:54 | |
Although it's famous for its rugged moorland, it also boasts 55 kilometres | 0:01:54 | 0:01:59 | |
of some of the most breathtaking coastline in the country. | 0:01:59 | 0:02:02 | |
Until 1818, this whole area was a royal forest and hunting ground. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:07 | |
But it was post-war hunting that brought one of Exmoor's most famous animals to the brink of extinction. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:14 | |
Ponies have been mentioned on Exmoor as far back as The Domesday Book, | 0:02:18 | 0:02:23 | |
but it's thought they originated from Alaska 130,000 years ago. | 0:02:23 | 0:02:29 | |
In that ancient time, they would have roamed this countryside | 0:02:29 | 0:02:33 | |
alongside animals like the sabre-toothed tiger. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:36 | |
The tigers may be long extinct, but these lovely ponies still graze these moors. | 0:02:39 | 0:02:45 | |
'Although they live wild, they are privately owned and I'm meeting a man | 0:02:46 | 0:02:51 | |
'who has made looking after them a lifetime's work with over 40 years as a farm manager in these hills. | 0:02:51 | 0:02:57 | |
'We're heading out to see the ponies in their natural habitat.' | 0:03:01 | 0:03:05 | |
How do you actually find a herd of ponies in such a vast moorland? | 0:03:06 | 0:03:11 | |
Well, you just drive around. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:14 | |
Years ago, when I came here first, we used to ride after 'em with ponies. | 0:03:14 | 0:03:19 | |
They're quite easy to find, especially at this time of the year when the bracken's very long. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:25 | |
-There we go. Is that a mare and foal? -That's a mare and foal. | 0:03:25 | 0:03:29 | |
That foal still looks pretty shaky on its legs. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:32 | |
Yeah, that foal was only probably born yesterday. | 0:03:32 | 0:03:35 | |
They're tough-looking horses. | 0:03:42 | 0:03:45 | |
I mean, they're quite short. They've got a good build to them. | 0:03:45 | 0:03:49 | |
They're bred for being in the wild. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:52 | |
Oh, yes, they're certainly bred for living here | 0:03:52 | 0:03:56 | |
at 1,200 feet or whatever. We're 1,200, 1,300 feet above sea level. | 0:03:56 | 0:04:00 | |
It doesn't matter what weather gets thrown at them, snow, sleet, they'll live up here all right. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:05 | |
-All through the winter, they're fine? -All through the winter. Very rarely have we ever had to feed them. | 0:04:05 | 0:04:12 | |
-How many horses have you got up here? -We have about 40 mares and we run one stallion here. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:18 | |
-We're not very far away from them here. They don't seem to be very wild. -When I came here 40 years ago, | 0:04:18 | 0:04:24 | |
you would come out and see the ponies, they were that blooming wild then, they would take off. | 0:04:24 | 0:04:30 | |
To read the numbers of them... This time you can, now they've slipped their coats a bit. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:36 | |
You'd have to have field glasses. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:38 | |
But over the years with a lot more people walking around and coming here on holiday, | 0:04:38 | 0:04:43 | |
people with dogs and children, the ponies have just accepted it. | 0:04:43 | 0:04:47 | |
After 40 years working with these ponies, you must have some fantastic memories. | 0:04:55 | 0:05:00 | |
I've got a very good photograph of the first branding we ever had. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:04 | |
-That's my mugshot in the middle with a lot more hair than I've got now. -Is that you? Fantastic. | 0:05:04 | 0:05:10 | |
-And so you'd bring the ponies off the moor and this would be to mark them as part of the breed? -Yes. | 0:05:10 | 0:05:17 | |
'Derek looks after the Anchor herd which are a pure Exmoor breed. | 0:05:17 | 0:05:21 | |
'They are descended from the Acland ponies, given as a parting gift | 0:05:21 | 0:05:26 | |
'to Sir Thomas Acland, the last royal warden of Exmoor in 1818. | 0:05:26 | 0:05:31 | |
'They were eventually sold on into the hands of the Green family, | 0:05:31 | 0:05:35 | |
'but in the 1940s, the entire herd was nearly wiped out | 0:05:35 | 0:05:40 | |
'and it was only thanks to the Greens that they survive today.' | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
Why were the ponies' numbers in such decline? | 0:05:44 | 0:05:48 | |
I think during the war there was a lot of ponies killed for meat. There's no question about that. | 0:05:48 | 0:05:54 | |
And we were lucky that none of our ponies here... | 0:05:55 | 0:05:59 | |
I don't think we lost any ponies, put it that way, | 0:05:59 | 0:06:03 | |
but I think it was through the Greens' alertness that the Anchor ponies were maintained. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:10 | |
I'm pretty sure and there is a story going round that some people were after some of the Anchor ponies, | 0:06:10 | 0:06:16 | |
-but the Greens certainly rescued them from the meat wagon. -They could have ended up as wartime rations? | 0:06:16 | 0:06:23 | |
Well, they could have done. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
Quite a number of people think they would have done if it hadn't been for the Green family. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:30 | |
Unfortunately, Exmoor ponies are still a rare breed, | 0:06:32 | 0:06:36 | |
but Derek is giving me a lift deeper into the hills | 0:06:36 | 0:06:39 | |
to meet some modern-day heroes doing their bit to make sure these magnificent creatures survive. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:45 | |
When Nicholas Crane visited the area, he headed for the coast | 0:06:48 | 0:06:52 | |
and found a much more extreme way of crossing Exmoor's challenging landscape. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:58 | |
It's 1953 and the world's highest mountain has been conquered | 0:07:01 | 0:07:05 | |
in a breathtaking 29,000-foot ascent. | 0:07:05 | 0:07:09 | |
The achievement prompted one mountaineer who had missed out on the Everest adventure | 0:07:09 | 0:07:14 | |
to plan a conquest of his own - not up, but along, and it was a lot more than 29,000 feet. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:20 | |
In his younger days, Clement Archer had been working in India when Everest was conquered. | 0:07:20 | 0:07:26 | |
It's thought that he had secretly hoped to join that expedition. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:31 | |
Instead, Archer pioneered a new concept here on the Exmoor coast. | 0:07:31 | 0:07:35 | |
Nowadays, we might call it "coasteering", a 14-mile climb along sea cliffs, | 0:07:35 | 0:07:41 | |
sandwiched perilously between pounding sea and sky. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:44 | |
The purists know this route as the Exmoor Traverse. | 0:07:44 | 0:07:48 | |
It runs from Foreland Point to Combe Martin, | 0:07:48 | 0:07:52 | |
nearly three times longer than the ascent of Everest. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:56 | |
And this route wasn't completed until 25 years after Everest. | 0:07:56 | 0:08:01 | |
In 1978, Terry Cheek and a team of three young police cadets finally conquered the Exmoor Traverse. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:10 | |
It took them four days and nights. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
Their achievement has not been matched since. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
30 years later, Terry and two of his team are back at the Exmoor Traverse. | 0:08:15 | 0:08:20 | |
Now, what is going on there? | 0:08:21 | 0:08:23 | |
You've got no ropes. You're creeping round under an overhang above the water, | 0:08:23 | 0:08:28 | |
wearing what looks like soggy jeans. | 0:08:28 | 0:08:31 | |
And it was flares back 30 years ago. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:33 | |
-You did this in flared jeans? -LAUGHTER | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
-Do you remember this part of it, Trevor? -Yeah, and talking about the clothing, the boots were made | 0:08:36 | 0:08:42 | |
of like pressed cardboard with a rubber sole. They were very cheap. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:46 | |
And not very flexible to begin with. | 0:08:46 | 0:08:49 | |
Of course, they get saturated with water. It's almost like wearing papier mache! | 0:08:49 | 0:08:54 | |
It's a real challenge. If you don't get it right, you're cut off. | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
Without being over-dramatic, that may mean drowning. | 0:08:58 | 0:09:01 | |
What they call nowadays "risk assessment", I don't remember us using those words 30 years ago. | 0:09:01 | 0:09:07 | |
-I'm not sure there was one. -No, or we wouldn't have done it. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:11 | |
'Terry was already an experienced climber in 1978. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:16 | |
'He's in his 60s now and still loves these cliffs. | 0:09:16 | 0:09:19 | |
'He's challenged me to take on a section of this daunting traverse.' | 0:09:19 | 0:09:25 | |
-The Exmoor Everest? -The Exmoor Everest, yes. -Shall we go down? -Yes, certainly. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:30 | |
Doesn't sound like a walk in the park. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
Below! Just kicked a rock down which is not good when you've got somebody below. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:43 | |
Terry, the nature of this route in rock-climbing terms is pretty bizarre, really, it seems to me, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:53 | |
because I associate climbing as going up mountains, not going horizontally along cliffs. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:59 | |
The climbing is much the same. You really set your own rules. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:04 | |
We set the rule of not entering the water and not climbing out on to the grass line above the rock. | 0:10:04 | 0:10:10 | |
This is probably one of the harder spots. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:13 | |
Because we're only about three feet above the high water mark now. | 0:10:14 | 0:10:19 | |
-So, only a couple of hours ago, the waves were bashing at the bottom of this? -Just below my feet, yes. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:28 | |
This is a bit of a tricky move, isn't it, Terry? | 0:10:28 | 0:10:31 | |
It's quite difficult. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:33 | |
Yes, cling your hands underneath that spike. | 0:10:33 | 0:10:36 | |
-I'm clinging on to everything I can, I can tell you! -You'll be OK there. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:41 | |
-Under here, it's all wet and slimy, covered in sea water. -Yeah. Jam the hands up in that crack. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:47 | |
I know it's wet and it's painful. | 0:10:47 | 0:10:49 | |
It's very tricky now. | 0:10:51 | 0:10:53 | |
Some of the finger holds are really pretty minute, aren't they? | 0:10:53 | 0:10:57 | |
Whoa! | 0:10:57 | 0:10:59 | |
This is not quite as easy as... sitting at a desk, | 0:10:59 | 0:11:04 | |
working on my laptop, it has to be said. | 0:11:04 | 0:11:08 | |
If you get caught by a rising tide or a storm surge in the Bristol Channel, what do you do? | 0:11:10 | 0:11:15 | |
Once you've been driven above the high water mark, then you are in unknown territory. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:21 | |
You could be in absolute hell about 70 feet up on crumbling rock and vegetation. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:27 | |
We had to resort to climbing at night, waiting on the cliffs | 0:11:30 | 0:11:34 | |
for the tide to recede to get past a difficult section. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:39 | |
And it was freezing. We also discovered what barnacles could do to your hands. | 0:11:39 | 0:11:44 | |
It's like very rough, coarse sandpaper and it's very painful. | 0:11:44 | 0:11:49 | |
'I've only done a section of this climb and as we haul ourselves up the cliff, I'm feeling exhilarated. | 0:11:49 | 0:11:55 | |
'I've got nothing but admiration for the achievement of Terry and his team three decades ago. | 0:11:55 | 0:12:01 | |
'I'm left too with a new respect for the awesome cliffs and the fierce tides of the Severn Sea.' | 0:12:01 | 0:12:08 | |
'Nicholas Crane and an extreme way of crossing Exmoor's stunning coastline. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:13 | |
'My Exmoor journey has taken me to Dulverton | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
'where I'm parting company with farm manager Derek Sparks | 0:12:17 | 0:12:21 | |
'and making my way to the Moorland Mousie Trust, a refuge for Exmoor's famous ponies.' | 0:12:21 | 0:12:27 | |
The Trust takes its name from popular children's books written in the '30s about these ponies. | 0:12:34 | 0:12:40 | |
It's been re-homing unwanted Exmoors for just over a decade. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:45 | |
I'm really keen to get hands-on experience and see what they do here | 0:12:45 | 0:12:49 | |
but rather strangely, I've been told the only thing I'll need is this. | 0:12:49 | 0:12:54 | |
'Farming these ponies is a commercial enterprise. | 0:12:54 | 0:12:58 | |
'They go to market where they're sold as grazing animals. | 0:12:58 | 0:13:02 | |
'Even though classed as a rare breed, before the Trust was set up, | 0:13:02 | 0:13:06 | |
'the surplus animals which didn't sell could end up in pet food or exported as meat. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:12 | |
'Now, thanks to the work of Linzi Green and her colleagues, there is another option.' | 0:13:12 | 0:13:17 | |
-Hi, you must be Linzi. -I am. Hello. | 0:13:18 | 0:13:22 | |
What are you doing? What's the duster? | 0:13:22 | 0:13:25 | |
The duster is to show this little foal that being approached by me isn't so scary | 0:13:25 | 0:13:31 | |
and also when we first start handling our foals, | 0:13:31 | 0:13:35 | |
it's an extension of our arm to keep me nice and safe, | 0:13:35 | 0:13:39 | |
so that if he wanders off, I can keep the duster with him until he stands still, | 0:13:39 | 0:13:44 | |
so that he realises, "OK, this isn't too bad." | 0:13:44 | 0:13:47 | |
When they come to us, they're quite nervous, quite worried | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
and it's our job to show them that being approached and touched by people can actually be nice. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:57 | |
I also noticed that you're not looking at him. | 0:13:57 | 0:14:00 | |
I'm not. We use a lot of body language to stay non-threatening to the ponies, | 0:14:00 | 0:14:06 | |
just to, at this stage with them, | 0:14:06 | 0:14:09 | |
just to make sure that we're using all the right tools, so that they can learn that we're not too bad. | 0:14:09 | 0:14:16 | |
Do you know where a pony like this will end up? | 0:14:16 | 0:14:19 | |
A pony like him is probably going to end up in a foster home or a grazing site. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:24 | |
We try to get as many of our ponies into foster homes as possible. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
We're always looking for homes that can continue their training | 0:14:28 | 0:14:32 | |
and they can then become... Good boy. ..nice riding ponies | 0:14:32 | 0:14:36 | |
or working ponies, family ponies, because they have all the right qualities for being in a home. | 0:14:36 | 0:14:43 | |
It's giving them the skills to live a domestic life with families or in other homes. | 0:14:43 | 0:14:48 | |
'I'm keen to have a go at training a pony myself. | 0:14:55 | 0:14:58 | |
'Linzi thinks they're too dangerous for me to work with. | 0:14:59 | 0:15:03 | |
'Instead, she starts me off on Jaeger | 0:15:03 | 0:15:06 | |
'who has been here for two weeks and is ready to move on to the next stage of training.' | 0:15:06 | 0:15:11 | |
LOUD NEIGHING | 0:15:16 | 0:15:19 | |
You want to pick one of your dusters | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
and you're going to turn, so that your right hand is going towards him. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:27 | |
It doesn't need to touch him. It can go into thin air, then come away. | 0:15:27 | 0:15:31 | |
-OK. -Then just bring the duster over in a nice movement. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:34 | |
It doesn't need to be too slow, and then away. And again. | 0:15:34 | 0:15:38 | |
-You can see from his ears that he's not unhappy. -No. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:42 | |
-He's quite inquisitive. -There we go. -Happy face. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:46 | |
He seems remarkably relaxed. | 0:15:46 | 0:15:49 | |
Does this mean that I have the magic touch or is he calmer than most? | 0:15:49 | 0:15:53 | |
No, you're doing all the right things and you're using the techniques that he's used to, | 0:15:53 | 0:15:58 | |
so he says, "I don't know you, but I know the method." It's working well. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:03 | |
-What was he like when he first came in? -He was a lot different to this. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:07 | |
He was quite a jumpy pony. | 0:16:07 | 0:16:10 | |
It did take several sessions before he would allow us to touch around his face and wear a head collar. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:17 | |
They're such characters. They're so loveable, aren't they? | 0:16:17 | 0:16:20 | |
You can see that as long as they're safe to be around, they're going to make fantastic companions. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:27 | |
Absolutely. Every pony is an individual. | 0:16:27 | 0:16:30 | |
They all have their own personalities and they're great ponies. | 0:16:30 | 0:16:34 | |
Well, cyclist? Yes. Country Tracks presenter? Yes. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:45 | |
And I can now add horse whisperer as well. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
'These ponies adapt well to human contact, but there is a much wilder side to life on Exmoor - | 0:16:51 | 0:16:57 | |
'other animals who roam the moors avoiding humans wherever possible. | 0:16:57 | 0:17:01 | |
'One man who made it his business to track them is local legend and cameraman Johnny Kingdom.' | 0:17:01 | 0:17:08 | |
I'm Johnny Kingdom. I've been filming wildlife now for over 30 years. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:14 | |
This is my home - Exmoor. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:16 | |
The deer is so important to Exmoor. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:19 | |
I believe in getting out there and seeing the deer in their natural habitat, | 0:17:20 | 0:17:26 | |
seeing them feed, seeing them mate and seeing them play. That's what I think of the red deer of Exmoor. | 0:17:26 | 0:17:32 | |
The only way to get close to the deer is to stalk them | 0:17:40 | 0:17:44 | |
and the best time to do that is early in the morning. | 0:17:44 | 0:17:47 | |
Today, I'm going to look for this certain nasty stag which I've met before. | 0:17:48 | 0:17:54 | |
I want to show you him roaring. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:56 | |
This is what they do in the autumn. | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
This is when it could be dangerous. It's foggy. | 0:18:01 | 0:18:04 | |
You may walk right into the stag, so this is a chance you're taking. | 0:18:04 | 0:18:09 | |
This big, black stag is down here somewhere, so we've got to be very careful we don't walk right into him. | 0:18:09 | 0:18:15 | |
If we do, he'll charge us. I'm just telling you. | 0:18:15 | 0:18:19 | |
My best chance to find him is here on Molland Common. | 0:18:23 | 0:18:27 | |
What I'm trying to do now is I'm listening to hear this big stag, to locate where he's stood. | 0:18:30 | 0:18:37 | |
If we can hear the roar, it will give me a rough idea of which way to approach it. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:46 | |
He's a stag that I came very close to last year | 0:18:46 | 0:18:50 | |
and what I want to do this year is get closer than ever to show you the lovely shot of a big stag roaring. | 0:18:50 | 0:18:57 | |
But this is the way I do it. I just stand on top of the moor and wait for him to call. | 0:18:57 | 0:19:03 | |
LOW-PITCHED ROAR | 0:19:03 | 0:19:05 | |
Right, do you hear that? | 0:19:06 | 0:19:09 | |
I think we'll get ready and start to move right now. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:13 | |
What I do... Wait a minute. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:16 | |
The way I do this is to cover my face because it shines, right? | 0:19:17 | 0:19:22 | |
Come with me. Come this way. Come on. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:25 | |
Keep right behind me. | 0:19:26 | 0:19:28 | |
You've got to bend down. Bend down low if you can. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
If you're out looking for stags, be very careful because these animals can kill you. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:40 | |
Especially in the month of October. This is the time of their rutting season, when they're mating. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:46 | |
Right, get down. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:49 | |
WHISPERING: There he is. | 0:19:56 | 0:19:58 | |
My big beast. | 0:19:58 | 0:20:00 | |
That's the sod that chased me last year. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
He's going left to right. | 0:20:09 | 0:20:12 | |
Oh, my God. He could have seen me. | 0:20:14 | 0:20:17 | |
This is when you want a tripod, you see. | 0:20:23 | 0:20:27 | |
What a beast! | 0:20:29 | 0:20:32 | |
Very, very hard to film, you know. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:37 | |
Just look at this. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:47 | |
This is where a stag will mark his territory. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:51 | |
This here was done a month ago, rubbing the velvet off. | 0:20:51 | 0:20:54 | |
This is fresh. This is the rut. That's the difference, you see. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:58 | |
They rub the velvet off, sharpen the points, then mark their territory. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:02 | |
That's why this is fresh. | 0:21:02 | 0:21:05 | |
There's deer all the way round us now, but we're going to look for this big, black stag again. | 0:21:05 | 0:21:10 | |
This is a very crafty stag. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:14 | |
This is the worst stag I ever stalked in my life. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:18 | |
I'm shaking like hell because I'm very close to it, you know? | 0:21:31 | 0:21:35 | |
There, you can see his points. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:39 | |
Very old stag. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:42 | |
That's a beautiful shot. | 0:21:43 | 0:21:45 | |
He's going around now to pick his hinds. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
He's collected all his hinds together. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:52 | |
This stag now will stay with his hinds and wait until each one comes into season. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:58 | |
One stag can take 30 hinds, if not more. Hard to believe, but it's true. | 0:22:01 | 0:22:06 | |
Lucky sod. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:09 | |
Gosh, he's gone like a rocket. | 0:22:11 | 0:22:14 | |
That's your problem on Exmoor. | 0:22:14 | 0:22:16 | |
Two other stalkers, look. | 0:22:16 | 0:22:19 | |
Making things very difficult. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:22 | |
It takes a long, long time to get these shots. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:27 | |
I've got a shot of him, but I haven't got a shot of him roaring, | 0:22:30 | 0:22:34 | |
so, the next few weeks, I shall try and keep following until I get that shot. | 0:22:34 | 0:22:39 | |
'My journey today has brought me deep into the Exmoor hills to meet the man himself - Johnny Kingdom.' | 0:22:42 | 0:22:48 | |
I want to find out what it is about this place and the wildlife that is so special to him | 0:22:51 | 0:22:57 | |
and also discover the secrets to capturing some of the wildlife in action. | 0:22:57 | 0:23:02 | |
And what better place to find him than in his natural habitat - | 0:23:03 | 0:23:07 | |
a home-made hide miles from anywhere. | 0:23:07 | 0:23:11 | |
-Hey, Johnny! -Hey! | 0:23:12 | 0:23:14 | |
Hello there. Hi, Mark. Where have you been, boy? | 0:23:14 | 0:23:18 | |
Come right up here. Come on. | 0:23:18 | 0:23:21 | |
-A-ha! -Hi, Johnny. -Hello, Mark. -How are you doing? | 0:23:21 | 0:23:25 | |
-You come and see what I've just done, mate. Nice to meet you. -It's quite an entrance. -Yeah, it's a bit high up. | 0:23:25 | 0:23:31 | |
-It's like a big boys' treehouse. -Look out through there. It's a good old view out there. | 0:23:31 | 0:23:37 | |
Fantastic. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:38 | |
It's a wonderful vantage point. You're four or five metres up here? | 0:23:38 | 0:23:43 | |
You can see down over the woodland. It's a good time of year to look out because there's not many leaves. | 0:23:43 | 0:23:49 | |
That's right. And I've picked a place where there's not many trees in the centre as well. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:55 | |
I found the old rotten stump down there. That looked like a good feeding base. | 0:23:55 | 0:24:00 | |
The old badger likes to dig a bit, so I go down there with a shovel | 0:24:00 | 0:24:05 | |
and I dig my food and I bury it, then I hope to see the animal come along and dig it all up. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:11 | |
It sounds silly, really, but that's how you keep an animal in one spot. | 0:24:11 | 0:24:15 | |
Out the front here I can see a wire. What's that on the tree there? | 0:24:15 | 0:24:19 | |
-That's a cable that goes to my wide-angle camera. -OK. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:23 | |
-And there's another wire going down to the camera down there. That's a close-range one. -Oh, yeah. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:29 | |
WHISPERING: They disagree when there's not much food left like that. | 0:24:29 | 0:24:33 | |
You see? | 0:24:33 | 0:24:35 | |
It is very strange. With the animals, you've got to work on it. | 0:24:35 | 0:24:40 | |
This hide, I've worked on it for a long, long time. | 0:24:40 | 0:24:43 | |
Before I even put the hide up, I put some more food around the area. I was working on it all the time. | 0:24:43 | 0:24:49 | |
I thought when this hide goes up, then it'll come running to action. | 0:24:49 | 0:24:53 | |
-In under 24 hours I had my first badger. -Really? | 0:24:53 | 0:24:56 | |
That's incredible. Then I had a roe deer. | 0:24:56 | 0:24:59 | |
You know what I mean? You've just got to work on it. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:02 | |
WHISPERING: This is a wild boar. | 0:25:02 | 0:25:05 | |
One of the shiest animals you can film. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:09 | |
It's pretty cosy in here. You wouldn't want too many people in here for too long. | 0:25:12 | 0:25:17 | |
-How long do you spend in here? -Five or six hours. | 0:25:17 | 0:25:21 | |
-To me, that's nothing. I'll come back here this afternoon. There's a few jobs I want to do. -Yeah. | 0:25:21 | 0:25:27 | |
I've been married for 48 years. That's why we're still together because I'm never home. | 0:25:27 | 0:25:32 | |
-Hiding in your hides. -I love it. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:34 | |
'Johnny's been capturing Exmoor's wild animals on film for over 20 years. | 0:25:37 | 0:25:42 | |
'But even with his years of experience, sitting and waiting isn't always enough.' | 0:25:42 | 0:25:47 | |
-So you've got pigs' food? Are we feeding pigs? -Not really, no. | 0:25:53 | 0:25:57 | |
Well, it could be, but it's mainly for the badger. | 0:25:57 | 0:26:00 | |
We're going to work right here. | 0:26:00 | 0:26:03 | |
-OK, what I want you to do, look... -You've been here before? -Let me just show you. | 0:26:03 | 0:26:08 | |
-Right. -You watch this. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:10 | |
Just like that. You see? | 0:26:11 | 0:26:14 | |
Just like that. And you bury that in for me. | 0:26:15 | 0:26:19 | |
-You see, like that? Just bury that in with the shovel. Shovel that into there. -Right. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:24 | |
Yeah, in there. You carry on. You're doing a good job. | 0:26:24 | 0:26:29 | |
What's this hanging down here, Johnny? | 0:26:29 | 0:26:33 | |
Oh, I forgot about that. Sorry. | 0:26:33 | 0:26:35 | |
Now, that's important. That's a little microphone. | 0:26:35 | 0:26:38 | |
Why? | 0:26:38 | 0:26:40 | |
Because just imagine if Mr Piggy comes. | 0:26:40 | 0:26:43 | |
Mr Pig will be that big. HE GRUNTS | 0:26:43 | 0:26:46 | |
That'll be up there on my camera, you see. Same with the badger. | 0:26:47 | 0:26:51 | |
MIMICS BADGER SOUNDS You can hear him chewing. | 0:26:51 | 0:26:54 | |
I want the noises of the animal. | 0:26:54 | 0:26:57 | |
I'm hoping the wild boar or any animal that comes will be eating away like this. | 0:26:57 | 0:27:02 | |
-And the camera's there on the tree, look. See? -Yeah. | 0:27:02 | 0:27:06 | |
That's right in here. I told you at the top. | 0:27:06 | 0:27:09 | |
That's the stump we saw. That camera's showing that close-range. | 0:27:09 | 0:27:13 | |
'All this is a far cry from where Johnny started out. | 0:27:13 | 0:27:17 | |
'As a young man, he worked as a lumberjack and even a gravedigger.' | 0:27:17 | 0:27:21 | |
I want to get one right underneath. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:23 | |
So after gravedigging, how did you get into filming wildlife? | 0:27:23 | 0:27:27 | |
-A man lent me a camera. -Yeah? -Listen to this little story. | 0:27:29 | 0:27:33 | |
My mate Roger Gregory said, "Take my camera." The only camera where I lived. "Take it on the moors. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:39 | |
"Let's see if you can film some deer." I went on the top of Exmoor up there. | 0:27:39 | 0:27:44 | |
To the big stone on Anstey Common. I parked there. I took out my binoculars and I saw my target. | 0:27:44 | 0:27:50 | |
About half a mile away. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:52 | |
I got down on all fours like you do in the forces. Like this, see? | 0:27:52 | 0:27:57 | |
With your camera like this. Push your camera right in front of you like that. Right? | 0:27:57 | 0:28:02 | |
I got to the wire, I turned the camera on. It was about 25 yards away. | 0:28:02 | 0:28:08 | |
I could see in that viewfinder I'd got some brilliant shots. I could not wait to get home. | 0:28:08 | 0:28:13 | |
Plugged into the television and I was watching it come on and there was all the heather. | 0:28:13 | 0:28:20 | |
I said, "I can't remember doing that. I didn't film no heather!" | 0:28:20 | 0:28:24 | |
And then I had the stones in the river! Then I had the gorse, then the wire fence. Guess what happened. | 0:28:24 | 0:28:31 | |
When I started, I turned it on and when I went to film the deer, I put it off. I got nothing! | 0:28:31 | 0:28:37 | |
So you were hooked from the start. The first time you tried to film deer, you thought, "I'll go back." | 0:28:41 | 0:28:48 | |
-Yes, that was the turning of my life. -From gravedigger to lumberjack and now wildlife cameraman/presenter. | 0:28:48 | 0:28:55 | |
-It's quite a varied career. -Yeah. I've quite enjoyed it. I loved it. -I can imagine. | 0:28:55 | 0:29:02 | |
'Getting back to nature with Johnny and seeing his new hide close up has been a fantastic experience, | 0:29:02 | 0:29:08 | |
'but as Jules Hudson found out, building in a national park is often a much more contentious issue.' | 0:29:08 | 0:29:14 | |
Don't be fooled by the graceful sweep of its acres or by the charm of its too pretty villages. | 0:29:21 | 0:29:27 | |
There's a storm brewing on Exmoor. | 0:29:27 | 0:29:30 | |
It's all because of this innocuous, classic post-war bungalow. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:35 | |
It's not that special or pretty. It's not even listed. | 0:29:35 | 0:29:39 | |
But it has lit the proverbial blue touch paper on an almighty row. | 0:29:39 | 0:29:44 | |
It all began three years ago when the National Park Authority bought this property | 0:29:44 | 0:29:49 | |
with plans to demolish it, but they hadn't reckoned with Molly Groves. | 0:29:49 | 0:29:54 | |
Molly, you really have kicked up quite a fuss with this property, | 0:29:54 | 0:29:59 | |
but the good news is it's no longer going to be knocked down. | 0:29:59 | 0:30:03 | |
-Why were they going to knock it down? -The idea was, apparently, | 0:30:03 | 0:30:08 | |
that they were going to improve the view from two walks. | 0:30:08 | 0:30:12 | |
What the point of improving the view by demolishing a house is I cannot imagine. | 0:30:12 | 0:30:19 | |
This was a property many local people wanted to buy, | 0:30:19 | 0:30:23 | |
but the Parks bought with a view to re-wilding the area, to remove it from the landscape. | 0:30:23 | 0:30:29 | |
This is a perfectly habitable home. Why remove something perfectly habitable, seem from hardly anywhere, | 0:30:29 | 0:30:35 | |
to knock it down when people desperately need homes? | 0:30:35 | 0:30:40 | |
'The National Park promised to renovate Blackpitts, but it's still not fit to live in, | 0:30:40 | 0:30:45 | |
'adding to local people's housing woes. I've come to see Richard Floyd and his fiancee Emma. | 0:30:45 | 0:30:51 | |
'They're about to have their first child and need somewhere to live. | 0:30:51 | 0:30:55 | |
'In the meantime, they're living on his mum's land in this caravan.' | 0:30:55 | 0:31:00 | |
-You put your name on the list for Blackpitts, with numerous others. -Definitely. -What have you heard? | 0:31:00 | 0:31:06 | |
Very little. We've heard it would be up for let in August. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:10 | |
-Not entirely sure which August! -That's the question to ask them! | 0:31:10 | 0:31:15 | |
Exactly. But that's all we've been told so far. | 0:31:15 | 0:31:19 | |
No idea if it would be affordable for local people or if it'll be for anybody. | 0:31:19 | 0:31:24 | |
What other avenues have you tried? | 0:31:24 | 0:31:27 | |
Everything. We went in for a mortgage, to see if we'd get one. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:31 | |
-But... -It's not happening. | 0:31:31 | 0:31:34 | |
So... | 0:31:34 | 0:31:36 | |
We've inquired about planning permission in the village here. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:41 | |
The National Park came back and said the village was exempt from building. | 0:31:41 | 0:31:46 | |
If it's discreet, for a local person why can't you build on your own land? | 0:31:46 | 0:31:51 | |
'It's a sentiment that runs deep among the local community. | 0:31:51 | 0:31:55 | |
'Nathan Exley is also struggling for somewhere affordable to live. His hopes are on temporary housing.' | 0:31:55 | 0:32:03 | |
There is places where farmers would allow me to build a log cabin | 0:32:03 | 0:32:08 | |
if only we could get planning permission. | 0:32:08 | 0:32:11 | |
I like the idea of a log cabin. They say you can build them for £30,000-£40,000. | 0:32:11 | 0:32:18 | |
I've got ground which people would allow me to do that for little or no money, I think. | 0:32:18 | 0:32:25 | |
'Unless this situation changes, Nathan can see no future for his young family here on Exmoor.' | 0:32:25 | 0:32:31 | |
If you want to live in this area and do this kind of work... I can't go into an office and do 9 to 5. | 0:32:31 | 0:32:37 | |
..then sacrifices have to be made, I suppose. | 0:32:37 | 0:32:41 | |
Well, it's tricky, isn't it? Exmoor is a very nice place to live. | 0:32:43 | 0:32:48 | |
No surprise, then, that average house prices here are nearly 60% higher than the national average. | 0:32:48 | 0:32:54 | |
Even affordable housing is often out of range for many on an agricultural wage. | 0:32:54 | 0:33:00 | |
So what is wrong with building some temporary housing in a corner of a field to ease the housing crisis? | 0:33:00 | 0:33:06 | |
Well, you can't just build where you like in a national park, | 0:33:06 | 0:33:11 | |
but locals say affordable homes aren't being built. | 0:33:11 | 0:33:14 | |
Many say, "You're not letting us build what we want to build where we live and work." | 0:33:14 | 0:33:20 | |
Well, I'd say to that we've got some fantastic countryside here. | 0:33:20 | 0:33:25 | |
And in other parts of England and Wales as well. | 0:33:25 | 0:33:29 | |
It's been national policy for the last 60 years to restrict development in the open countryside. | 0:33:29 | 0:33:35 | |
That applies in the National Park and outside it. What we're trying to do is meet local need, | 0:33:35 | 0:33:41 | |
but within that policy framework. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:43 | |
That does mean building homes | 0:33:43 | 0:33:46 | |
next to or adjacent to settlements or converting existing buildings | 0:33:46 | 0:33:51 | |
so we're looking not to add to a general sprawl of development, | 0:33:51 | 0:33:55 | |
but to focus development in a way that helps us to maintain and enhance the wider countryside. | 0:33:55 | 0:34:01 | |
I can understand the frustration and concerns. People who love and have lived here want to stay here, | 0:34:01 | 0:34:08 | |
where they've got connections. We can understand that, | 0:34:08 | 0:34:12 | |
and we really want to get into a more positive dialogue | 0:34:12 | 0:34:15 | |
and how can we use the existing policies to meet the needs of the people who definitely have a need. | 0:34:15 | 0:34:22 | |
Do you think that conservation is overtaking... | 0:34:28 | 0:34:32 | |
-the need to conserve communities? -I do have that feeling. | 0:34:33 | 0:34:38 | |
I do have that feeling that now it is biased too far on the side of conservation. | 0:34:38 | 0:34:44 | |
I'm not against national parks. They're absolutely right. | 0:34:44 | 0:34:48 | |
But I think now we have gone far too far on the conservation side | 0:34:48 | 0:34:52 | |
and, let's face it, what's wrong with conserving the indigenous people as well as the heather and all that? | 0:34:52 | 0:34:59 | |
Molly's campaign has enlisted the help of a local MP | 0:34:59 | 0:35:03 | |
who is taking their battle all the way to Westminster. | 0:35:03 | 0:35:08 | |
It's a battle with national implications and a question that goes to the heart of rural life: | 0:35:08 | 0:35:14 | |
what comes first - beautiful views or vibrant and viable communities? | 0:35:14 | 0:35:19 | |
'My journey has brought me to the Devon coast | 0:35:28 | 0:35:33 | |
'where I'll be exploring the twin villages of Lynmouth by the sea and Lynton, high up on the cliff.' | 0:35:33 | 0:35:39 | |
Lynmouth is a name that for many lives long in the memory. | 0:35:46 | 0:35:51 | |
Today it's an idyllic seaside town, | 0:35:52 | 0:35:55 | |
but in the 1950s it was the scene of the worst flooding in post-war Britain. | 0:35:55 | 0:36:01 | |
These floods claimed many lives and ripped the community apart. | 0:36:01 | 0:36:06 | |
Oh, I remember it vividly. | 0:36:17 | 0:36:20 | |
On the day of the flood, the Friday, there was torrential rain. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:25 | |
We could see something was going to happen, but nowhere near like it did happen. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:31 | |
'Roy Pugsley was a 19-year-old builder when, on the 16th of August, 1952, | 0:36:36 | 0:36:43 | |
'torrential storms blew in across the moors, bringing with them 9 inches of rain in just 24 hours.' | 0:36:43 | 0:36:49 | |
I think the sound, the sound of the river in full flood, | 0:36:50 | 0:36:55 | |
the sound of the rocks crashing. It was like an express train, the old steam trains, | 0:36:55 | 0:37:00 | |
going through a wayside station at speed. It's a frightening noise. | 0:37:00 | 0:37:05 | |
'A torrent of water burst the banks of the River Lyn, | 0:37:06 | 0:37:10 | |
'cascading down onto Lynmouth, which lay helplessly below. | 0:37:10 | 0:37:15 | |
'Roy knows all too well the horror that followed.' | 0:37:15 | 0:37:19 | |
-It happened at night, so what were your first memories? -It was as far as you could see | 0:37:19 | 0:37:25 | |
it was pitch dark, no street lights. | 0:37:25 | 0:37:28 | |
The rainstorm made it | 0:37:28 | 0:37:31 | |
very cloudy and foggy that you couldn't see anything. | 0:37:31 | 0:37:35 | |
All you could see was the river in front of you. All you could see was a roaring mass of water. | 0:37:35 | 0:37:42 | |
So you couldn't see any houses falling in the river because you couldn't see that far in front. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:50 | |
-Describe the next morning when daylight came and you saw the destruction. -Absolutely frightening. | 0:37:50 | 0:37:56 | |
It was impossible to know where to start. | 0:37:56 | 0:38:00 | |
The roads were washed away, bridges were washed away. Everything was covered with rocks and boulders | 0:38:00 | 0:38:06 | |
and trees and everything was just smothered. | 0:38:06 | 0:38:11 | |
You'd see a tree sticking in somebody's front window, | 0:38:11 | 0:38:16 | |
or something like that. Absolutely frightening. | 0:38:16 | 0:38:20 | |
-34 people lost their lives. -Yes. | 0:38:21 | 0:38:24 | |
Did you know at the time that houses had been taken away, that people were going to...? | 0:38:24 | 0:38:30 | |
Yes, at the end of the night we realised one or two houses had been destroyed because we saw them. | 0:38:30 | 0:38:36 | |
I myself was in the little road up there, the footpath up there, looking down on a big hotel. | 0:38:36 | 0:38:42 | |
-We watched that collapse in the sea. -A couple of the houses had complete families in them. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:48 | |
-Yes. -And you knew them. -Oh, yes. One was a building worker, Mr Bill Richards. He lost his... | 0:38:48 | 0:38:55 | |
I think he went back in the house | 0:38:55 | 0:38:58 | |
to get the children and his wife and their handbags and what have you, and it was all too late. | 0:38:58 | 0:39:05 | |
And another was three old people. | 0:39:06 | 0:39:10 | |
They lived in very poor old tumbledown cottages, | 0:39:10 | 0:39:14 | |
but they were cottages that people lived in and they were at the edge. | 0:39:14 | 0:39:19 | |
They'd seen the floods before and the principle was to put the chairs on top of the kitchen table, | 0:39:19 | 0:39:26 | |
roll the mat up and go to bed. | 0:39:26 | 0:39:29 | |
I'm afraid it was a lot bigger flood than they'd ever been through before. | 0:39:29 | 0:39:34 | |
-It must have been an incredibly tough thing to come to terms with. -Oh, frightening. | 0:39:34 | 0:39:40 | |
Nobody... You couldn't even imagine it. | 0:39:40 | 0:39:43 | |
It was one of these things that nobody had ever seen anything... | 0:39:43 | 0:39:47 | |
Other than the Blitz in London or in any big city, | 0:39:47 | 0:39:52 | |
but to be a little village here, it was absolutely frightening. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:57 | |
'Slowly, the village began to recover and rebuild, | 0:40:00 | 0:40:03 | |
'but persistent rumours started to emerge that maybe Lynmouth's floods weren't simply an act of God.' | 0:40:03 | 0:40:10 | |
Within months, incredible claims started to circulate about a secret military experiment, | 0:40:15 | 0:40:21 | |
codename Operation Cumulus. | 0:40:21 | 0:40:24 | |
The Ministry of Defence conducted secret cloud seeding experiments, | 0:40:25 | 0:40:29 | |
dropping silver iodine crystals into clouds to make it rain. | 0:40:29 | 0:40:34 | |
The idea was to create bad weather on demand to repel possible enemy forces. | 0:40:34 | 0:40:39 | |
'The authorities initially denied these experiments were taking place, | 0:40:46 | 0:40:50 | |
'but in 2001 new documents and RAF log books were uncovered, | 0:40:50 | 0:40:55 | |
'along with an interview with a pilot carrying out the experiments further inland. | 0:40:55 | 0:41:01 | |
'The interview makes fascinating listening. | 0:41:03 | 0:41:07 | |
'We'd assembled at Cranfield in Bedfordshire in mid-August, 1952, | 0:41:08 | 0:41:14 | |
'studying clouds. | 0:41:14 | 0:41:16 | |
'There was no disguising the fact that the seedsman had said he'd make it rain and he did, | 0:41:16 | 0:41:22 | |
'The combined enterprise attracted a lot of attention. | 0:41:22 | 0:41:25 | |
'The BBC television unit visited us to make a film and explain the probable advantages to the world | 0:41:25 | 0:41:32 | |
'of a controlled rainfall. | 0:41:32 | 0:41:34 | |
'The day before the programme was due, the rain fell with unprecedented vigour and washed Lynmouth away.' | 0:41:34 | 0:41:41 | |
'The programme was never broadcast and no link was ever proven between these two events, | 0:41:42 | 0:41:48 | |
'but it's not the only question about the floods that's unanswered.' | 0:41:48 | 0:41:53 | |
Lynmouth buried its dead, but only 33 were named. | 0:42:06 | 0:42:10 | |
The 34th victim is buried here in this cemetery. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:15 | |
It was the body of a young woman, but to this day nobody knows who she was. | 0:42:15 | 0:42:21 | |
'I'm continuing my journey by leaving Lynmouth and travelling 900 feet up to the village of Lynton.' | 0:42:35 | 0:42:41 | |
To get there, I'll be using a train to take the strain and quite an unusual one at that. | 0:42:43 | 0:42:50 | |
The Lynton-Lynmouth cliff railway is one of the oldest examples of mechanised green transport. | 0:42:58 | 0:43:04 | |
It carries over 300,000 people up and down this cliff face every year, | 0:43:04 | 0:43:09 | |
powered only by gravity and water. | 0:43:09 | 0:43:12 | |
'And the man in charge of it all is Chief Engineer Ashley Clarke.' | 0:43:12 | 0:43:16 | |
BELL RINGS | 0:43:28 | 0:43:30 | |
The driver has contacted the other driver at the top and you'll hear the water start going out. | 0:43:30 | 0:43:37 | |
-We'll become lighter, the top car will become heavier. -There it is! | 0:43:37 | 0:43:41 | |
So what was it that caused this to be here in the first place? | 0:43:49 | 0:43:53 | |
It was an idea of a guy called Sir George Newnes. | 0:43:53 | 0:43:58 | |
He used to holiday in the area and fell in love with Lynton and Lynmouth. | 0:43:58 | 0:44:04 | |
All the goods used to come in via ship into Lynmouth harbour, | 0:44:04 | 0:44:09 | |
and was loaded onto carts and pack horses had to drag it up to Lynton, a one in four hill. | 0:44:09 | 0:44:15 | |
He hated to see the horses thrashed to haul this to Lynton. | 0:44:15 | 0:44:20 | |
It IS incredibly steep. So this was originally quite a secluded community. | 0:44:20 | 0:44:25 | |
Everything had to be dragged up. | 0:44:25 | 0:44:28 | |
It's got to be a lot quicker as well than using pack animals to get up the hillside. | 0:44:28 | 0:44:34 | |
-It is amazingly steep. That view is quite something. -It is. | 0:44:34 | 0:44:39 | |
We don't... There's transport which will drive up the hill now, | 0:44:39 | 0:44:43 | |
so we don't need to use it for heavy goods. It is mainly people that we carry nowadays. | 0:44:43 | 0:44:50 | |
'Thanks to the cliff railway, the appeal of Lynton and Lynmouth boomed | 0:44:53 | 0:44:57 | |
'and Victorian holidaymakers called these villages Little Switzerland of England. | 0:44:57 | 0:45:03 | |
'Now when Matt Baker visited the area, getting around was very much a matter of horse power.' | 0:45:07 | 0:45:13 | |
Horses have been an integral part of life on Exmoor for centuries, | 0:45:16 | 0:45:20 | |
but today they don't pull ploughs, bit people. | 0:45:20 | 0:45:24 | |
Horseboarding is the latest horse-powered extreme sport and it's pretty hair raising! | 0:45:24 | 0:45:31 | |
'Daniel Fowler-Prime first decided to bring a horse and board together in this unique way four years ago. | 0:45:37 | 0:45:43 | |
'A trained horse rider, he was looking for a new challenge and created this groundbreaking sport. | 0:45:43 | 0:45:50 | |
'He and his brother Tom take part in horseboarding competitions all over the UK.' | 0:45:51 | 0:45:56 | |
Daniel, how are you doing? That was unbelievable! | 0:45:56 | 0:46:00 | |
Where on earth did it come from, this idea? It looks pretty crazy if you don't mind me saying. | 0:46:00 | 0:46:06 | |
Originally, horseboarding was used as a method of training horses for horse surfing. | 0:46:06 | 0:46:12 | |
You tow a surfboard along shallow water, which can be a lake or a river or whatever. | 0:46:12 | 0:46:18 | |
But then this came to be more accessible for people so it's taking off in a better way. | 0:46:18 | 0:46:24 | |
-Is it harder for the rider or the boarder? -You need a good rider, | 0:46:24 | 0:46:29 | |
-but your board rider takes all the knocks. -Sounds delightful(!) Have you had any major incidents? | 0:46:29 | 0:46:35 | |
Not a lot of major injuries because you don't have a long way to fall, | 0:46:35 | 0:46:40 | |
but a lot of bruises, grass burns, | 0:46:40 | 0:46:43 | |
a few sprained wrists and that sort of thing. | 0:46:43 | 0:46:48 | |
-But when you do stay on, what does it feel like? -Amazing. | 0:46:48 | 0:46:52 | |
The competitions are unbelievable. It's drag racing with horses. | 0:46:52 | 0:46:57 | |
-How does a competition work? Is there a measured track? -We race over a 100-metre drag strip. | 0:46:57 | 0:47:03 | |
So you have two lanes, A and B. | 0:47:03 | 0:47:05 | |
The winning team gets two points, the losing team one, and if you fall off, you don't get any points. | 0:47:05 | 0:47:12 | |
Daniel, I would love a go and I've brought a competitor, Jules. | 0:47:12 | 0:47:16 | |
I guess we just get training, eh? | 0:47:16 | 0:47:19 | |
'Now Jules and I are both accomplished riders, | 0:47:19 | 0:47:22 | |
'but riding a board behind a horse is something we've never attempted.' | 0:47:22 | 0:47:26 | |
Look at us, eh? | 0:47:26 | 0:47:29 | |
It's not exactly classic country wear, but I'm glad we're wearing it! | 0:47:29 | 0:47:34 | |
-So, Daniel, what happens from here. We've got the horse roped up. -Yeah. | 0:47:34 | 0:47:39 | |
The next thing is to get you on the board. | 0:47:39 | 0:47:42 | |
When the horse is going, try to stay as in line with it as possible. | 0:47:46 | 0:47:51 | |
You bend your knees and you put weight on your toes. You don't want to lift your heels. | 0:47:54 | 0:48:00 | |
What everybody should do is that from the floor. | 0:48:00 | 0:48:05 | |
-So I'm going first, then. -Good luck, mate. | 0:48:05 | 0:48:09 | |
Oh, I'm gone! See you later. | 0:48:12 | 0:48:15 | |
Oh, we're going. I tell you what, this is brilliant! | 0:48:15 | 0:48:19 | |
We are at canter and we're going strong! | 0:48:19 | 0:48:23 | |
All right, then. Try a walk? | 0:48:26 | 0:48:29 | |
-There you go. You're off. -Oh, my goodness, me! | 0:48:29 | 0:48:34 | |
-Try to turn in to the horse. -Trying to turn in to the horse... | 0:48:34 | 0:48:38 | |
He's definitely gone into the rough there! | 0:48:38 | 0:48:42 | |
This is the best 4x4 by far! | 0:48:42 | 0:48:44 | |
-Baker, you are better than I am! -Good effort(!) | 0:48:47 | 0:48:51 | |
-Right, mate. -OK! This is it. Take it away, girls. | 0:48:52 | 0:48:56 | |
We're off, we're off. A gentle start to start with. | 0:48:56 | 0:49:00 | |
Hang on, we're behind! Go on! | 0:49:00 | 0:49:03 | |
That's lovely, keep it going. | 0:49:03 | 0:49:06 | |
Aaaargh! | 0:49:08 | 0:49:10 | |
Go on! I'm still here! | 0:49:11 | 0:49:13 | |
Takes it! Delighted! I don't know what happened to Jules. | 0:49:16 | 0:49:21 | |
Ouch! | 0:49:22 | 0:49:23 | |
-What happened to you, man?! -It was all going so well. | 0:49:24 | 0:49:29 | |
-Where are the boys? -In you come. -Well done. | 0:49:29 | 0:49:33 | |
-I thought you were going to have him. -I did, too! -A very big thank you to Rohan. -The stars of the show. | 0:49:33 | 0:49:39 | |
Taking a bow, there you are. | 0:49:39 | 0:49:41 | |
'I've travelled back inland and I'm ending my journey on a high, | 0:49:46 | 0:49:50 | |
'the highest point on Exmoor, Dunkery Hill, where I'm about to have my own encounter | 0:49:50 | 0:49:57 | |
'with extreme sports. I'm about to discover the nocturnal thrills this area has to offer. | 0:49:57 | 0:50:03 | |
'Night mountain biking.' | 0:50:03 | 0:50:05 | |
But first here's the Country Tracks weather for the week ahead. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:10 | |
. | 0:51:50 | 0:51:57 | |
'I'm on a journey across the rugged moorlands and dramatic coastline of Exmoor. | 0:52:07 | 0:52:13 | |
'I started in the south-east at Dulverton, | 0:52:13 | 0:52:16 | |
'before heading deep into the moors to meet local legend Johnny Kingdom. | 0:52:16 | 0:52:20 | |
'Moving on to the north Devon coast, I discovered the tragic and fascinating histories | 0:52:20 | 0:52:26 | |
'between the twin towns of Lynmouth and Lynton. Now I've travelled back inland to Dunkery Hill | 0:52:26 | 0:52:33 | |
'where my journey's drawing to an end.' | 0:52:33 | 0:52:37 | |
Well, the sun is setting, but I'm promised that there's a lot more that Exmoor has to offer. | 0:52:37 | 0:52:43 | |
So I'm finishing my journey by trying out the new craze of night mountain biking. | 0:52:43 | 0:52:49 | |
'I'm joining Dan French, who's been riding on these moors all his life | 0:52:49 | 0:52:54 | |
'and now makes a living showing the region's thrill-seeking tourists the more extreme side of Exmoor. | 0:52:54 | 0:53:00 | |
'I've held the world record for cycling around the world, but never thought of night riding as fun.' | 0:53:00 | 0:53:06 | |
-Evening. -Hiya. | 0:53:10 | 0:53:12 | |
Well, I've come dressed for the part, but it's not the sort of cycling that I'm used to. | 0:53:12 | 0:53:18 | |
-What am I in for? -Right, we're going to do some night mountain biking. | 0:53:18 | 0:53:23 | |
Up here on Exmoor we've got over 400 miles of bridle way, | 0:53:23 | 0:53:27 | |
so there's loads to choose from. | 0:53:27 | 0:53:29 | |
-We have strong lights on the front. -I have literally never done this, | 0:53:29 | 0:53:34 | |
riding off-road at night. Surely it's a lot harder as you can't see what's coming up ahead? | 0:53:34 | 0:53:40 | |
All you've got is that pocket of light in front of you. That's where your focus is. | 0:53:40 | 0:53:46 | |
That's what I'm worried about - a sixth sense I'm not sure I have. We'll soon find out! | 0:53:46 | 0:53:51 | |
Well, I'm kitted up | 0:53:55 | 0:53:58 | |
and ready to go. It's a totally new experience for me. I've not mountain biked in ages | 0:53:58 | 0:54:04 | |
and never at night, so it looks fairly interesting terrain. I'm sure these guys will look after me. | 0:54:04 | 0:54:10 | |
I've got a camera to try to capture some of the action. We've got last light. | 0:54:10 | 0:54:16 | |
It'll be dark soon. Let's go. | 0:54:16 | 0:54:18 | |
OK, let's speed up a wee bit. | 0:54:24 | 0:54:27 | |
-Dan, is this a typical night up here? -Well, we're pretty lucky with the weather here tonight. | 0:54:33 | 0:54:40 | |
Look how clear it is. It's amazing. | 0:54:40 | 0:54:43 | |
It's now too dark to use the normal camera. We're onto night cam. | 0:54:57 | 0:55:02 | |
And you can actually see quite a lot with this headlight of the bike. | 0:55:02 | 0:55:08 | |
And, well, cycling while holding a camera is not so easy on this terrain, but it's just brilliant. | 0:55:08 | 0:55:15 | |
It gives you definitely a new insight into this territory, being up here at night. | 0:55:15 | 0:55:21 | |
Excellent! | 0:55:34 | 0:55:36 | |
First night ride. | 0:55:36 | 0:55:38 | |
That was absolutely excellent. That was a real first for me. | 0:55:39 | 0:55:44 | |
You could actually see a lot more than I thought you'd be able to | 0:55:44 | 0:55:48 | |
and riding from sunset into what is now completely dark... I can see the moon rising. | 0:55:48 | 0:55:54 | |
You just feel completely alone up here. Except for these guys. | 0:55:54 | 0:55:58 | |
That was just brilliant. Thank you. | 0:55:58 | 0:56:01 | |
-This is the top of Exmoor. -Yeah, Dunkery Beacon. We've done well. | 0:56:01 | 0:56:05 | |
I enjoyed it. Absolutely superb. | 0:56:05 | 0:56:08 | |
'What better place to end my journey than here at Dunkery Beacon | 0:56:09 | 0:56:14 | |
'on the very top of the moors? | 0:56:14 | 0:56:17 | |
'I always thought of Exmoor as just that - the moors. | 0:56:18 | 0:56:23 | |
'But as I've discovered, there's much more this area has to offer. | 0:56:23 | 0:56:28 | |
'From its unspoilt coastlines to its villages, steeped in history and mystery.' | 0:56:28 | 0:56:35 | |
As I've found out, it's a place with lots to explore. Even after dark. | 0:56:35 | 0:56:40 | |
-I guess it's downhill from here? -OK. | 0:56:40 | 0:56:43 | |
Subtitled by Subtext for Red Bee Media Ltd - 2011 | 0:56:56 | 0:57:00 | |
Email [email protected] | 0:57:01 | 0:57:03 |