Cauldron of Life Galapagos


Cauldron of Life

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In the vastness of the Pacific,

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a once-in-a-lifetime expedition is underway.

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For the next few weeks,

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we are going on a voyage of discovery

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covering over 1,000km through the Galapagos Islands.

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Galapagos, one of the treasures of the natural world.

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Over 1,000 species here are found nowhere else on earth,

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and they've evolved in extraordinary ways.

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But this paradise is under threat,

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as our world is changing like never before.

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Now we're embarking on one of the most ambitious

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scientific expeditions ever attempted in Galapagos.

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I'm Liz Bonnin, I'm a wild animal biologist helping to carry out

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ground-breaking research in the field.

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Joining me is a team of world-renowned scientists.

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Equipped with cutting-edge technology,

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we'll be able to study the wildlife of Galapagos up close

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to see how it's adapting to change.

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-How does that look?

-That's perfect.

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'In its rich ocean.'

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Orca pod just sighted.

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There, right there.

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'On its volcanic slopes.'

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This volcano erupted this time last year.

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'And within hidden worlds.'

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This place is just incredible.

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We'll attempt to help save animals on the brink of extinction.

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Iguana! Iguana!

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And dive into the unknown to discover species new to science.

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This just changes everything.

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Everything.

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Oh, my God, look at this.

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This is Mission Galapagos.

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Combined, the Galapagos Islands cover an area just a tenth

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the size of Scotland.

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They lie in the Pacific,

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1,000km from the coast of South America.

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Galapagos is made up of 13 main islands

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and many smaller rocky outcrops.

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Sitting right on the equator,

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these subtropical islands enjoy relatively consistent temperatures.

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But this also makes them vulnerable to the rapid effects

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of climate change.

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And now these unique islands

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are under greater threat than ever before.

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It's why we've come here to study their animals and find ways

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to protect them.

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This is Alucia, a 56-metre research vessel - our base of operations.

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An expedition like this on this sort of scale has never been attempted

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in the Galapagos before.

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Over the next few weeks, we'll be gaining unprecedented insights

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into the wildlife here, with the help of the scientists

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we're teaming up with.

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This ship is a scientist's dream.

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INDISTINCT RADIO COMMUNICATION

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'And we'll be working alongside some of the best from both

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'the Galapagos and across the world,

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'all taking advantage of this unique opportunity.'

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Charles Darwin visited the Galapagos almost 200 years ago

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on a research expedition of his own.

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He was just 26 years old at the time.

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He began to recognise the process of evolution here,

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which would inspire a theory that transformed the way we think

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about all life on Earth.

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On the first leg of this journey we'll be exploring the youngest

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volcanic islands in the west of the Galapagos and investigating

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the remarkable ways in which animals have adapted

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to their hostile environments.

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We'll be looking for the species that are most at risk,

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to find out if they're adapting fast enough to survive.

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Our first mission will be one of the most ambitious of all.

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It will take us to the very top of the active Wolf Volcano.

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In this extreme location, we'll be looking

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for one of the most recently discovered and rarest species.

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Weather conditions around the volcano are so changeable

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that, if we get it wrong, we'll be stranded.

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Our helicopter pilot, Tyler, isn't taking any chances.

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Something that we take very seriously is getting someone

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up there and then not being able to pull them back off the mountain

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for potentially days,

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and, so, we've briefed the team to bring shelter,

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bring enough food to last a day or two just in case the weather

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moves in and we can't get back to you.

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-PILOT:

-We're currently at a course of 000,

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speed 11 knots through the water.

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The volcano towers over the northern part of Isabela,

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the largest island in Galapagos.

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Wolf is one of six volcanoes which erupted and joined together

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to form this island over the past million years.

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Seeing it for the first time is breathtaking.

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There it is, Wolf Volcano.

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Sitting above the clouds.

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It's the tallest volcano in the Galapagos - 1,700 metres.

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It's one of the least explored, most pristine parts

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of the archipelago, and it's home to a reptile

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that only a few people have ever seen in the flesh -

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the pink iguana.

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It wasn't until 2009 that the pink iguana was first identified

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as a new species, and scientists think that only around 200 remain.

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It's thought they once lived all across the Galapagos Islands,

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but, slowly, this species has been dying out.

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It's hard to believe that Wolf Volcano is now the only place

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on Earth that they exist.

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And, up here, everything can change in the blink of an eye.

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All of this lava flow is very, very young.

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This volcano erupted this time last year.

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We are camping on the other side,

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which I'm told is the inactive side of a volcano.

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But, like all good volcanoes,

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you don't ever know exactly where or when it's going to erupt next.

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The 2015 eruption shook the scientific community.

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Over half the volcano's crater was covered in lava,

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wiping out every living thing in its path.

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So, assessing how many pink iguanas are left is vital.

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But, first, we have to find them.

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A few days ago, our team of scientists headed up in advance

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to drop off equipment and set up camp.

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Now I'm joining them.

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Evolutionary biologist and team leader Dr Gabriele Gentile

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is here to meet me.

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-Gabriele!

-Hello, Liz.

-How are you?

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I'm pretty good, how about you?

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Really well. What a flight in. That was extraordinary.

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-Welcome here.

-How are things in camp?

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-Good.

-Shall we get some coffee going?

-Let's get some coffee.

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Hola, everybody.

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Hello, hello, hello.

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'Gabriele and his team identified the pink iguana as a new species.

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'So, if anybody can find one, it's them.'

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This is what we'll be doing today. We'll start from the camp,

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then we'll walk along the rim of the crater.

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We have to proceed very slowly and try not to be very loud

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cos iguanas, they'll run away.

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Very important is that any of us that will see an iguana just say,

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"Hey, iguana," and we'll start our procedure to capture them

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and then collecting data.

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-Bueno?

-Bueno.

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Good, good, good. Can I have an almond?

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No.

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LAUGHTER

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Understanding as much as possible about the pink iguana,

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how they live, what they eat, when they breed,

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is the only way for scientists to learn how to protect them.

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The search is on.

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This is mind-blowing, Gabriele.

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-Yeah, it's beautiful.

-I know we're on a mission but can I just

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take two seconds? I need to take this in.

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-Take your time.

-Wow.

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It's not long before we spot the first clues -

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the burrows these reptiles use for nesting and shelter.

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Big hole over here.

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Burrows everywhere.

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We have to be really careful not to stand near the burrow

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otherwise we'll just collapse the whole thing.

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They're quite delicate.

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There's another one. Just be really careful.

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After hiking for hours,

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it's becoming clear that finding a pink iguana really isn't that easy.

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Look at the size of Wolf Volcano.

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And there are about 200 pink iguanas that scientists need to find

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in order to protect them.

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Iguana!

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Iguana!

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We've got a pink iguana. It's a new one.

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-It's big.

-It is. It's a big male.

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Oh, my God.

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It's a huge male.

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-Look at that.

-All right.

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Well done.

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It's a big one.

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He is such a beautiful specimen.

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He looks really healthy.

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He actually is in good shape.

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There's not much food now in this area

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-but he's doing good.

-Yeah.

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Once found across the island chain,

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over thousands of years and due in part to competition from

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another iguana species, Wolf has become their last stronghold.

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-So, Gabriele, I presume you have to work really quickly.

-Yeah.

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71.

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HE SPEAKS IN SPANISH

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So, now we measure this animal.

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Measuring size and weight will indicate if it's getting

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enough food and growing normally. Blood tests will show hormone levels

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and any signs of disease.

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This data will tell the team if the last remaining pink iguanas

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are healthy.

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To set eyes on a pink iguana...

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..is an honour, actually.

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It's a real honour. And he's beautiful.

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He's a stunning male.

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Look at that.

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This colour is not due to the presence of pigment but is actually

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blood flowing in the deeper layer of the skin.

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So they're pink but not because of pink pigment.

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They're pink because they have no pigmentation.

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That's correct.

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Given the fact that you're taking so many measurements

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from this individual alone,

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is that indicative of how little we know about pink iguanas?

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Well, we collect all the data because they may be informative

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about the ecology and evolution of the species,

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because there are so few individuals left.

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Scientists still don't fully understand why so few pink iguanas

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survive, and whether this tiny population can ever recover.

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But this research will go a long way towards gaining more knowledge

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about this precious reptile.

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So, there we go. He's marked him on his body.

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The paint is harmless,

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but will allow Gabriele to identify this animal.

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Are we letting him go now?

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-Yeah, we're letting him go.

-And to think that they're...

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..just hanging on by a thread.

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I love the fact that it was done quickly, calmly,

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minimum stress to the animal,

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get your measurements done and then off you go.

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Gabriele can use the data he's gathered to explore a new plan,

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to move some of the iguanas to another part of Galapagos

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and establish a second healthy population.

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There will be chances for this species to survive,

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especially continuing to input all these efforts.

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To give the pink iguana a chance somewhere else.

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Another spot to live.

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But for this to have success,

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we need to learn a lot about the ecology of the species.

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There are so few left in just this one place.

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Are we watching it on its way out,

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as part of the natural process of evolution?

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So, we have to consider extinction like a natural process as well,

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but what a loss would that be.

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Dinner time.

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Chicken soup.

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Thank you. Gracias.

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Oh, yum.

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Really, really good day.

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It's just amazing to be out in nature like this.

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You feel really alive.

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The story of how the pink iguana ended up

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on a remote volcano on the equator,

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and somehow managed to make it here is ultimately a story of survival.

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And stories like these abound here.

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They're what make the Galapagos such a unique and special place.

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Next morning, I head back to the Alucia,

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leaving Gabriele and his team to search for more pink iguanas

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during their final days here.

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From a recently-discovered species at the top of a volcano,

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it's time for me to descend down the side of one,

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in search of new species on the sea floor.

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'A mission that's only possible thanks to Alucia's most impressive

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'pieces of technology.'

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Two deep sea submersibles,

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each capable of descending 1km beneath the waves.

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'Leading this search is our expedition's marine biologist,

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'Dr Pelayo Salinas de Leon.'

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We're very excited about this dive.

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It's the first time I'll be down to 1,000 metres.

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And we're basically collecting as many weird-looking,

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odd creatures that we encounter.

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Pretty much everything that we see is very likely to be a new species

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to science.

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Our mission is taking us to a place no-one has gone before.

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And we're in the safe hands of our submersible pilot Buck Taylor,

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a veteran with over 2,000 dives under his belt.

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It's such a harsh environment.

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We're down at 1,000 metres, 3,300 feet.

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Everything wants to crush us.

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The pressure outside is huge.

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So we've got to make sure every single system on the sub is working,

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and working perfectly before we go anywhere near the water.

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Come to starboard.

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Come to port.

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It's time for a final briefing in mission control.

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Alucia's technical officer, Victor,

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has been busy scanning the sea floor here to create 3-D maps of the area

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we're hoping to explore.

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So, how deep is it at its deepest point?

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The area that we actually scanned is 1,550 metres.

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OK. So, obviously, depth is important but then there's more

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to it than just going deep, isn't there? What are we looking for?

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We'll be looking at the green, which is around 1,000 metres.

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And we'll be looking at this sort of shape.

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So, the craggy bits, not the smooth slopes.

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-Why?

-Because the craggy means very steep.

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That's the perfect environment for animals to grow.

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So, all these ridges are prime real estate.

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So, that's what we're looking for - all the critters on the edge.

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But does it make it more difficult to get to those areas?

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Yes, sometimes.

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We've got to approach with caution.

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It could all change, you know.

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Overhangs, ridges,

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gullies and we get these local little anomalies with currents

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and things, where it'll start rushing over an edge.

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So, it'll start pushing the sub around, and it keeps us on our toes.

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OK. You say the whole thing with a massive grin on your face.

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-Cos it's fun.

-It's not a nervous grin, is it?

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-No.

-OK.

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I'm with Buck and Pelayo in the yellow three-seater sub, Nadir.

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The smaller Deep Rover is our support sub, piloted by Toby.

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Deep Rover will collect the samples for us and, at 1,000 metres,

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is also an essential safety sub.

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-Welcome to Nadir.

-Thank you.

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INDISTINCT RADIO COMMUNICATION

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Nadir, safety brief complete, ready to charge.

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Roger. Shut your hatches.

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-Both happy?

-Yeah, really happy.

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-'As soon as they're ready.'

-Understood.

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OK, moving off down the trolley.

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All of Alucia's crew are now focused

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on getting our eight-tonne submersible safely on its way.

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-Wow.

-Here we go.

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1,000 metres underneath us.

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-Piece of cake.

-Piece of cake.

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What's this for? For when I cry?

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Yes.

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OK. Bring it up.

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That's the Nadir off-deck.

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Nadir, ready to go.

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Roger.

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Bye-bye, surface.

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In the Alucia's mission control room, surface officer, Alan,

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will be tracking our progress every step of the way.

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We've had a really successful launch.

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At the moment, we can track them on sonar and we get very,

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very good comms.

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They've just reported in. Conditions are good.

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VOICE FROM NADIR

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As you can hear, they're talking between themselves.

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So, we basically free-fall into the depths.

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What speed are we descending at?

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We try and do about one metre every four seconds.

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At 200 metres, the light begins to disappear.

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Below us is over 1,000 metres of deep sea.

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This is the biggest ecosystem on earth.

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It's also the most unexplored.

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Control, control, Nadir passing 250 metres, over.

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I feel like I'm in space.

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It's better than space because there is life here.

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It's sad that we do know more about the moon than we know about this.

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And there's going to be critters going extinct that we've never

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even discovered yet.

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'We descend through clouds of zooplankton.

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'Many of these tiny animals are invisible to the naked eye,

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'but they're the lifeblood of these oceans.'

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Just this is really breathtaking.

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Because this is the reason why everything in the Galapagos

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is so biodiverse and thriving.

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It's all to do with this.

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This soupy mix of all sorts of strange-shaped organisms.

0:24:570:25:02

'Zooplankton feeds a huge variety of sea life,

0:25:080:25:11

'and kick-starts the entire marine food web.'

0:25:110:25:14

You know, you're on the surface looking at all these charismatic,

0:25:170:25:20

big, beautiful animals but actually this is more awe-inspiring

0:25:200:25:24

and actually more humbling, in a way.

0:25:240:25:25

-Yes.

-If it wasn't for this, none of it would exist.

0:25:250:25:29

'We head towards our target depth.

0:25:320:25:34

'It's pitch-black down here and we're reliant on assistance

0:25:360:25:40

'from the surface.

0:25:400:25:41

'Nearing the jagged rocks,

0:25:410:25:43

'this can be the most dangerous stage of the dive.'

0:25:430:25:46

Nadir, Nadir, this is control, over.

0:25:480:25:51

As you can see, the subs are here at the moment, both together.

0:25:510:25:54

That area between the 50 metre, 80 metre and getting to 150 metres

0:25:540:26:00

off the bottom, we have to guide them.

0:26:000:26:02

'Until we can see the rocks, we're in their hands.

0:26:050:26:08

'Then, from out of the darkness, the flank of the volcano appears.'

0:26:190:26:23

Wow.

0:26:290:26:30

What is all this stuff?

0:26:350:26:36

Are they corals?

0:26:380:26:40

Control, control, Nadir.

0:26:400:26:42

Visibility lights on. 15 metres. Lights off, zero.

0:26:440:26:48

Bottom composition - rock and some sediment.

0:26:480:26:52

Tidal stream, we've got a slight...

0:26:540:26:56

'Two hours into the dive, we reach our target depth.'

0:27:030:27:07

1,000 metres, everybody.

0:27:110:27:12

So, there's five of us down here in the subs,

0:27:150:27:18

and there's only five people ever seen this. Ever.

0:27:180:27:21

'This is the deepest anyone has ever been in the Galapagos Islands.'

0:27:250:27:29

Just as we looked up at the screen, we knew they were close.

0:27:340:27:37

They are at 1,000 metres. So they're not interested in telling us,

0:27:390:27:42

or anything like that, they're just getting on with the job.

0:27:420:27:45

'Control, Nadir, depth 1,000 metres with the Rover.

0:27:450:27:49

-'Over.'

-As we hear, they've thought about us now,

0:27:490:27:52

and they've told us that they're 1,000 metres, you know.

0:27:520:27:54

So, that's nice that we know they're safe, they're happy.

0:27:540:27:58

How does it feel to be our modern-day, deep-sea Darwin?

0:28:070:28:10

-A lot of pressure?

-It's a lot of pressure,

0:28:120:28:14

but I prepared all my life for this.

0:28:140:28:16

I love it. I love it.

0:28:160:28:18

Over a kilometre beneath the waves,

0:28:190:28:22

the mission is now to ascend up the volcano wall to find and collect

0:28:220:28:27

new species.

0:28:270:28:28

This is basically the flank of a volcano.

0:28:320:28:34

Yes.

0:28:340:28:35

We're climbing a volcano.

0:28:360:28:38

Soon, a remarkable fish decides to pay us a visit.

0:28:450:28:48

A Galapagos ghost shark, or chimaera.

0:28:550:28:59

Oh, my God, he's awesome.

0:28:590:29:01

A fish discovered relatively recently, but it's been around

0:29:020:29:06

for at least 300 million years -

0:29:060:29:08

long before the dinosaurs.

0:29:080:29:10

If you look at them, it's kind of a mix between a ray and a shark.

0:29:100:29:14

Yes.

0:29:140:29:15

Chimaeras can live for up to 30 years.

0:29:200:29:24

Using their incredible sense of smell,

0:29:240:29:26

they hunt for shellfish in the dark,

0:29:260:29:29

grinding them up with tooth plates instead of rows of teeth.

0:29:290:29:32

Those enormous eyes work hard to take advantage of any light

0:29:390:29:43

that reaches the deep sea.

0:29:430:29:44

Starfish.

0:30:000:30:01

Oh, yeah, I think you're right.

0:30:010:30:03

I haven't seen that guy before.

0:30:030:30:05

Pelayo can only confirm a new species

0:30:060:30:09

if he takes a sample to study.

0:30:090:30:11

With a special permit from the Galapagos National Park,

0:30:120:30:15

he's one of the only people with the authority to do this.

0:30:150:30:18

For everything he collects and stores in these tanks,

0:30:190:30:22

he carefully records every detail about the habitat it came from.

0:30:220:30:27

It may appear invasive,

0:30:290:30:31

but taking these samples will help scientists to understand

0:30:310:30:35

how to better protect species in the deep sea.

0:30:350:30:37

Despite the fact that we're aware of how much we take from the planet,

0:30:390:30:45

-these samples are very important, aren't they?

-Yeah.

0:30:450:30:47

People only care about what they know and from here we know nothing.

0:30:470:30:52

Then something else catches Pelayo's eye -

0:30:530:30:56

a soft coral he's never seen before.

0:30:560:30:59

Move on, Pelayo?

0:30:590:31:00

No. Can we get Toby to grab that one?

0:31:000:31:03

This guy here, this soft coral.

0:31:040:31:07

I've got another sample for you, Toby.

0:31:070:31:10

Our search continues as we make our way up the slope.

0:31:240:31:27

Until another creature of the deep makes an appearance

0:31:360:31:40

and steals the show.

0:31:400:31:42

Pelayo thinks it is a type of deep-sea warty octopus,

0:31:470:31:52

and it's never been recorded in the Galapagos before.

0:31:520:31:55

She's carrying eggs

0:32:110:32:13

and will guard them for up to four and a half years,

0:32:130:32:17

longer than any other animal on the planet.

0:32:170:32:19

Our time in the abyss has come to an end.

0:32:490:32:51

Here we go, kids.

0:32:530:32:54

35 metres to go.

0:32:550:32:57

-Is that it? We're back in the real world.

-Nearly there.

0:32:570:33:00

Welcome back, everybody.

0:33:170:33:19

-Wow.

-Hello, Galapagos.

0:33:190:33:21

That experience...

0:33:320:33:33

..is probably the most exhilarating thing I will ever do

0:33:340:33:38

in my entire life.

0:33:380:33:39

That has trumped, officially trumped,

0:33:390:33:41

anything I've done in my entire life, personal and professional.

0:33:410:33:44

And you really did say, you know, "It'll fly by".

0:33:500:33:53

And I was like, "Yeah, but it's seven hours".

0:33:530:33:55

It flew by.

0:33:550:33:57

So our job isn't done for the day.

0:33:580:34:01

Because now we've all these amazing samples to take a look at.

0:34:010:34:05

In the ship's wet lab, Pelayo quickly begins to analyse

0:34:070:34:11

everything he's collected today - 16 samples in total.

0:34:110:34:15

So we're going to start with the first sample, which is this star

0:34:180:34:24

we collected at 1,000 metres deep.

0:34:240:34:26

So is this a specimen that you're familiar with?

0:34:280:34:31

No. When we were down there, it was the first time we saw this.

0:34:310:34:35

We take a small sample for genetic analysis.

0:34:350:34:40

DNA tests that can only be carried out on land will confirm

0:34:410:34:46

if these are indeed new species.

0:34:460:34:48

The process will take months,

0:34:490:34:51

but Pelayo is confident that what we've found

0:34:510:34:54

on these submerged volcanic slopes is new to science.

0:34:540:34:57

If so, it means scientists will be one step closer to unravelling

0:35:020:35:06

the mysteries of life in the deep.

0:35:060:35:09

We're a funny old species. We want to explore new frontiers,

0:35:090:35:12

we want to find out if there's life on Mars,

0:35:120:35:15

which in itself is hugely important,

0:35:150:35:17

and yet we've forgotten about this vast ocean that covers

0:35:170:35:22

the majority of our planet.

0:35:220:35:24

And for kilometres, down there,

0:35:240:35:28

there is stuff just waiting to be discovered.

0:35:280:35:30

While we've been exploring the deep,

0:35:370:35:39

Alucia's mission control has been continuing to scan the sea floor.

0:35:390:35:43

These 3-D maps show that Galapagos is littered

0:35:500:35:53

with underwater volcanoes known as seamounts.

0:35:530:35:57

Mission geologist Karen Harpp thinks some seamounts might explain

0:35:570:36:01

how certain species dispersed across the island chain,

0:36:010:36:06

adapting to each new environment they encountered.

0:36:060:36:09

That seamount's really interesting to us because it has a structure,

0:36:090:36:14

a shape that's not typical.

0:36:140:36:16

-It looks very flat.

-It is very flat.

0:36:160:36:19

You need therefore a way to explain why it has such a flat top,

0:36:190:36:22

and one of those ways is this notion that it is actually a sunken island.

0:36:220:36:27

As this volcanic island slowly sank beneath the ocean,

0:36:280:36:32

waves would have eroded down its peak into this flat shape.

0:36:320:36:36

What you see when you look at the Galapagos today is only its current

0:36:370:36:41

configuration. But if you go back even a half a million years,

0:36:410:36:44

one million years, two million years,

0:36:440:36:47

it turns out that very different islands were in different places,

0:36:470:36:50

and we have to think of it as a very dynamic place.

0:36:500:36:54

Which it surely is.

0:36:540:36:55

So why is the presence of a drowned island important,

0:36:570:37:03

with respect to our understanding of how animals might have

0:37:030:37:06

dispersed from island to island?

0:37:060:37:08

The way to think of it is as stepping stones.

0:37:080:37:11

If you can shorten the distance between two islands, you increase

0:37:110:37:14

the chances of a species getting relocated to that new island.

0:37:140:37:17

Many species most likely floated to Galapagos by chance and once here,

0:37:280:37:34

this island-hopping theory could explain how they were able to spread

0:37:340:37:38

across the archipelago to even its farthest reaches.

0:37:380:37:42

It's how the pink iguana could have made it

0:37:470:37:50

to one of its most remote volcanoes.

0:37:500:37:52

And how another iconic species can be found across most of Galapagos -

0:37:550:38:01

the giant tortoise.

0:38:010:38:03

Today, the largest population lives on Alcedo,

0:38:060:38:09

a volcano whose enormous crater, known as a caldera,

0:38:090:38:13

is rarely visited because it is so difficult to reach.

0:38:130:38:16

It's where we're heading next.

0:38:210:38:23

The expedition will be led by Pablo Valladares,

0:38:230:38:26

a guide working with the Galapagos National Park.

0:38:260:38:29

Alcedo has been hit by a drought this year,

0:38:310:38:34

and many scientists predict that they'll only become more severe

0:38:340:38:38

with climate change.

0:38:380:38:40

Pablo doesn't know how badly the giant tortoises have been affected.

0:38:400:38:45

One way to find out is to assess how well they're breeding.

0:38:450:38:48

This is it - the Alcedo Volcano.

0:38:510:38:54

Its caldera measures 6.4km in width.

0:38:540:38:58

And there you can see plumes of volcanic gas.

0:38:580:39:01

This volcano is still very much alive and active.

0:39:010:39:05

We need to find a nice population of tortoises.

0:39:090:39:13

How many tortoises are usually around this area, though?

0:39:130:39:16

Well, on Alcedo there is an estimate of between

0:39:160:39:19

5,000 and 8,000 tortoises.

0:39:190:39:22

Generally, when you get a mud pond, a wet area,

0:39:220:39:24

that's where all of them congregate.

0:39:240:39:26

So there's no mud ponds anywhere here, is there?

0:39:260:39:29

It has been very dry.

0:39:290:39:30

We head off in search of tortoises.

0:39:410:39:44

Look at this, Liz - we're following a tortoise path.

0:40:000:40:04

By generation and generation, tortoises have been walking,

0:40:040:40:07

they've been walking, following on this path.

0:40:070:40:09

You can see all the tracks of their feet and their bodies.

0:40:090:40:13

Darwin himself noticed these well-worn tracks

0:40:150:40:18

littering the landscape and that following them was the best chance

0:40:180:40:22

of finding fresh water.

0:40:220:40:24

Today, they lead us to a group of giant tortoises.

0:40:240:40:28

On a day like today, this is exactly what reptiles need to be doing.

0:40:300:40:34

They can't regulate their own body temperature like we can

0:40:340:40:38

and it would be very silly of them to hang out in this 32-degree heat.

0:40:380:40:42

So they're all huddled along what little shade they can find,

0:40:420:40:46

all along this tortoise track.

0:40:460:40:47

There's two here, there's two there, there's one over there.

0:40:470:40:51

They really are magnificent primordial beasts.

0:40:540:40:58

The Galapagos tortoise is one of the most long-lived creatures on Earth,

0:41:020:41:06

with an average lifespan of 100 years.

0:41:060:41:09

And they can weigh almost half a tonne, as much as five grown men.

0:41:100:41:15

These gargantuan reptiles can survive for up to a year

0:41:260:41:30

without any food or water.

0:41:300:41:32

That has got to go a long way towards helping them to succeed

0:41:320:41:35

in a challenging environment like this one.

0:41:350:41:38

But are they breeding?

0:41:410:41:42

Pablo soon finds evidence.

0:41:450:41:47

These are tortoise nests.

0:41:530:41:54

Look at all the shells, look.

0:41:540:41:55

This is amazing.

0:41:560:41:58

It's amazing. So this means tortoises are nesting here

0:41:580:42:02

and babies are hatching out.

0:42:020:42:04

This is the perfect spot for that because it is open,

0:42:040:42:09

so it'll allow the sun rays to go through and warm up the nests.

0:42:090:42:14

How many eggs do they lay at a time?

0:42:150:42:18

There's an average of ten eggs, generally,

0:42:180:42:21

and it depends on the tortoise population.

0:42:210:42:24

Babies will never meet their mother.

0:42:240:42:27

Or, if they do, they'll never know,

0:42:270:42:29

because the female closes the nest and goes.

0:42:290:42:33

They're on their own from the minute they hatch.

0:42:330:42:34

Absolutely. It gives you hope.

0:42:340:42:37

These are excellent signs that the tortoises are breeding.

0:42:370:42:40

They're having babies.

0:42:400:42:41

The hatchlings are nowhere to be seen, which is to be expected.

0:42:450:42:49

The first stage of the giant tortoise's life is known

0:42:540:42:57

as the lost years, as very little is known about them.

0:42:570:43:00

With Galapagos hawks circling overhead,

0:43:080:43:12

young tortoises need to remain hidden for several years

0:43:120:43:16

until they're large enough to fend for themselves.

0:43:160:43:19

It's an effective strategy that's contributed to their success here

0:43:300:43:34

for millions of years.

0:43:340:43:35

But with ever more severe droughts,

0:43:390:43:41

new challenges will be pushing their survival strategies to the limit.

0:43:410:43:46

Across the Galapagos,

0:43:490:43:51

tortoises have evolved to suit their habitat perfectly.

0:43:510:43:55

On the islands thick with vegetation,

0:44:030:44:05

their dome-shaped shells help them to plough through the undergrowth.

0:44:050:44:09

On more arid islands, where food is less plentiful,

0:44:120:44:16

their shells are saddle-shaped, with a peak at the front,

0:44:160:44:19

allowing them to reach the fruit of tall cacti.

0:44:190:44:22

Each tortoise is beautifully adapted to the island it came to inhabit,

0:44:240:44:29

resulting in 11 different types of Galapagos tortoise today.

0:44:290:44:33

But why are the environments across this small group of islands

0:44:340:44:38

so varied?

0:44:380:44:39

The answer can be found deep inside the Earth,

0:44:430:44:47

beneath this giant plate of rock on which the Galapagos sits.

0:44:470:44:51

Below Alcedo is a hot spot where magma wells up,

0:44:590:45:04

producing active volcanoes at the surface.

0:45:040:45:07

But these islands sit on a tectonic plate that moves slowly

0:45:080:45:13

over the hot spot.

0:45:130:45:15

Like a conveyor belt,

0:45:150:45:17

the newly-formed volcanic islands are pulled away from the hot spot

0:45:170:45:21

and, over time, they become inactive.

0:45:210:45:23

This island is drifting across the Earth's surface at a rate

0:45:280:45:32

of about seven centimetres a year.

0:45:320:45:35

The tectonic plate is carrying it, and the entire archipelago,

0:45:350:45:39

in that direction, towards the south-east.

0:45:390:45:42

It may not sound like much,

0:45:420:45:43

but in the 700,000 years since Isabela first formed,

0:45:430:45:47

it has moved 50km from its birthplace.

0:45:470:45:51

In just a few million years, as they travel away from the hot spot,

0:45:530:45:57

the islands transform from active volcanoes of barren rock,

0:45:570:46:02

to landscapes filled with lush vegetation,

0:46:020:46:05

covered in mist and cloud,

0:46:050:46:08

until, finally, they sink beneath the waves.

0:46:080:46:11

This is the reason why each Galapagos island

0:46:140:46:17

is so dramatically different to the next,

0:46:170:46:19

and why each island's inhabitants have had to adapt

0:46:190:46:22

in really specific ways in order to survive on them,

0:46:220:46:25

ending up completely different to their counterparts on other islands.

0:46:250:46:29

The wildlife of the Galapagos is a product of this dynamic,

0:46:430:46:47

ever-changing landscape.

0:46:470:46:49

This cycle of island birth and death has forced species here

0:46:500:46:55

to evolve and survive, or die.

0:46:550:46:58

The focus of our final mission...

0:47:140:47:16

..is an animal that's hard to miss

0:47:170:47:19

along the island's coastline.

0:47:190:47:21

The marine iguana.

0:47:250:47:26

When Darwin first encountered them, he was both fascinated and repulsed,

0:47:350:47:40

describing them as, "imps of darkness."

0:47:400:47:42

This unusual habit of sneezing salt...

0:47:460:47:48

..surely contributed to this reputation.

0:47:500:47:53

I am keen to have an encounter with these fascinating reptiles.

0:48:100:48:13

To see them in their element, I'm going to dive with them.

0:48:150:48:19

These are the world's only seagoing lizards.

0:48:300:48:34

Down here, you can see just how much they've changed

0:48:360:48:39

over millions of years, compared to their land ancestors...

0:48:390:48:43

..and why Darwin was interested in their remarkable adaptations

0:48:450:48:49

to the marine environment.

0:48:490:48:50

The largest individuals can hold their breath for over an hour.

0:48:520:48:56

They've developed strong, hooked claws to cling to the rocks...

0:48:580:49:01

..and blunt snouts full of razor-sharp teeth

0:49:060:49:09

to graze on the only food they eat - algae.

0:49:090:49:12

But every few years, this precious food source disappears,

0:49:160:49:20

proving catastrophic for the marine iguanas.

0:49:200:49:23

Our mission is to study how these extraordinary animals are adapting

0:49:420:49:47

to this threat.

0:49:470:49:48

To do this, we've brought our lab with us

0:49:530:49:55

to carry out a ground-breaking experiment in the field.

0:49:550:49:59

Professor Greg Lewbart is a wild animal vet.

0:50:020:50:06

The marine iguana has been his focus for the last three years.

0:50:060:50:09

It's such a unique animal.

0:50:120:50:14

The marine iguana can be sort of an indicator species

0:50:140:50:17

to the overall health of the islands.

0:50:170:50:19

Every few years, a major weather event, El Nino, hits Galapagos...

0:50:220:50:27

..and many scientists think they're getting stronger

0:50:290:50:32

with climate change.

0:50:320:50:33

During an El Nino, marine nutrient levels drop and the algae dies,

0:50:360:50:41

directly impacting on marine iguana numbers.

0:50:410:50:44

In 1983, 60% of marine iguanas were lost across the Galapagos.

0:50:460:50:51

In 1998, 90% of them died on some islands.

0:50:510:50:55

Marine iguana populations here take a regular beating.

0:50:550:50:59

Greg has been tracking individual marine iguanas and measuring them.

0:51:000:51:04

He's observed something extraordinary.

0:51:060:51:08

It appears that they're actually, at least some of them,

0:51:100:51:13

are getting shorter in order to survive El Nino events.

0:51:130:51:17

If you're smaller, you're going to need less food,

0:51:170:51:21

you're going to expend less energy,

0:51:210:51:24

and your odds of surviving are going to be significantly better.

0:51:240:51:29

We're not talking about animals that are just getting smaller

0:51:290:51:33

in terms of their size, like someone who loses weight.

0:51:330:51:36

-Right.

-They're actually shortening,

0:51:360:51:38

and that's really unheard of

0:51:380:51:41

in animals with backbones.

0:51:410:51:44

In addition to being able to shrink, they can grow again.

0:51:440:51:49

OK, so when you're talking about shrinking,

0:51:490:51:51

you don't mean generation on generation.

0:51:510:51:54

You mean individual iguanas, in their lifetimes,

0:51:540:51:59

are getting longer and shorter.

0:51:590:52:00

Yes. Kind of like an accordion.

0:52:000:52:03

So like a lizard accordion. I know, it's hard to comprehend.

0:52:030:52:06

To explore how these iguanas alter their size so dramatically,

0:52:070:52:12

we're going to do something that's never been attempted before.

0:52:120:52:16

We're X-raying the iguanas with this cutting-edge portable machine.

0:52:160:52:20

No-one has ever radiographed marine iguanas in the field like this.

0:52:210:52:26

So the iguana sits here.

0:52:260:52:27

-Yes.

-This takes the X-ray.

0:52:270:52:29

Does the iguana not try to scurry off the plate?

0:52:290:52:33

Well, no-one has ever done this before, so we're not sure.

0:52:330:52:35

OK, but step one is to catch them off those slippery rocks by the sea.

0:52:350:52:41

-Yes.

-Whose job is that, everybody's?

-That's the fun part.

-OK!

0:52:410:52:45

You got one?

0:53:120:53:14

-Hey.

-Fantastic.

0:53:140:53:16

It's a perfect, perfect first iguana for this.

0:53:160:53:19

How much can they tolerate handling before we need to release them?

0:53:190:53:23

-Quite a bit.

-Yeah?

0:53:230:53:25

You'll see that these animals are really pretty relaxed.

0:53:250:53:28

Some animals, when you put them on their back, they go into a trance.

0:53:280:53:33

So chickens do this, alligators do this,

0:53:330:53:37

-and fortunately marine iguanas do this.

-I love it.

0:53:370:53:40

It's a behaviour that Darwin first identified -

0:53:400:53:43

animals playing dead to discourage predators.

0:53:430:53:47

It's 78.3.

0:53:470:53:50

These heavy, lead overalls are a little cumbersome for the beach,

0:53:510:53:55

but they're designed to protect us from the X-rays.

0:53:550:53:57

-This is extra large.

-What are you saying?

0:53:570:54:00

So you got the medium and I get the extra large? I'm not going to take it personally, I'm not. It's fine.

0:54:020:54:06

-Oh, it is heavy.

-Yes. Now, go, turn around.

0:54:060:54:09

-Are you ready, Andy?

-Yes, I am ready.

0:54:100:54:12

You better be a good iguana.

0:54:120:54:13

I'm not going to try to do any restraint on him, OK, Andy?

0:54:130:54:15

-Are you ready?

-Yes, I'm ready.

0:54:190:54:21

One, two, three.

0:54:210:54:25

MACHINE BEEPS

0:54:250:54:26

Done.

0:54:260:54:28

-Good catch.

-Got you.

0:54:280:54:30

How does that feel?

0:54:330:54:34

It feels great. We've been wanting to do this for a couple of years,

0:54:340:54:37

and we've been dreaming about it.

0:54:370:54:38

By X-raying the skeletons of these iguanas,

0:54:400:54:43

Greg will be able to confirm how they achieve

0:54:430:54:46

this incredible transformation.

0:54:460:54:48

His plan is to return and X-ray the same individuals,

0:54:510:54:55

and by comparing the data,

0:54:550:54:57

he'll be able to see how these reptiles might break down

0:54:570:55:00

and rebuild bone tissue.

0:55:000:55:02

-Ready for release?

-All right, buddy.

0:55:110:55:14

You picked a great one. You got a good one.

0:55:140:55:15

He was really well behaved.

0:55:150:55:17

This research is revealing just how quickly these animals

0:55:170:55:21

are responding to challenges.

0:55:210:55:24

Who knows? If they survive to the next El Nino,

0:55:240:55:27

we're pretty sure they could shrink again.

0:55:270:55:31

Marine iguanas have not only been evolving over millennia,

0:55:310:55:35

they're capable of adapting to change in just a few months.

0:55:350:55:39

To me, it's like a magic trick.

0:55:420:55:45

I bet Darwin didn't know that iguanas were shrinking,

0:55:450:55:48

but he wasn't here long enough.

0:55:480:55:49

I'm astounded by the number of ways marine iguanas have adapted

0:55:580:56:03

to everything these islands have thrown at them,

0:56:030:56:06

ever since their ancestors arrived here millions of years ago,

0:56:060:56:09

by chance, on floating rafts of vegetation.

0:56:090:56:13

And, for me, they represent what the Galapagos is all about.

0:56:130:56:17

Our journey so far has revealed how this dynamic island chain

0:56:300:56:35

continues to shape the extraordinary wildlife here.

0:56:350:56:38

And how animals are adapting to change,

0:56:400:56:43

no matter how challenging the circumstances.

0:56:430:56:46

'Next time on Mission Galapagos,

0:56:500:56:53

'we'll dive into some of the most shark-infested waters on the planet,

0:56:530:56:58

'to discover why hammerheads congregate here

0:56:580:57:00

'in such huge numbers.'

0:57:000:57:02

Oh, my God, look at this.

0:57:020:57:04

LIZ YELLS

0:57:040:57:06

'We'll investigate how sea lions are faring

0:57:060:57:09

'in the face of climate change.'

0:57:090:57:11

I'm trying to keep up with him as he spins, spins, spins,

0:57:120:57:15

and I'm exhausted.

0:57:150:57:16

'Search for an elusive ocean giant,

0:57:160:57:19

'to find out what it gets up to in the deep.'

0:57:190:57:22

Coming right in.

0:57:220:57:24

GASPING Oh, my God.

0:57:240:57:26

'And experience the power of the Pacific,

0:57:260:57:29

'100 metres below the waves.'

0:57:290:57:32

Oh, God, that was close.

0:57:320:57:33

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