Secrets of the Deep Galapagos


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In the vastness of the Pacific,

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a once-in-a-lifetime expedition is underway.

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We're on a voyage of discovery,

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covering over a thousand kilometres through the Galapagos Islands.

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Galapagos.

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One of the greatest treasures of the natural world.

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This place is just incredible.

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Over 1,000 species here are found nowhere else on Earth,

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and they've evolved in extraordinary ways.

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But this paradise is under threat,

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as our planet changes faster than ever before.

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He's such a beautiful specimen. What health checks are you carrying out?

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We've embarked on one of the most ambitious expeditions

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ever attempted in Galapagos.

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This just changes everything.

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Everything.

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'I'm Liz Bonnin.

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'I'm a wild animal biologist

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'and I'm helping to carry out

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'a series of ground-breaking research missions in the field.

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'With me is a team of world-renowned scientists.'

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-How's that look?

-That looks perfect.

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'On this leg of our journey,

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'equipped with cutting-edge technology...

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'..we're going beneath the waves...

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'..to study the most endangered marine life in Galapagos...'

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I have a green board.

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'..in search of a giant of the deep...'

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-ALL GASP

-It's massive!

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'..to reveal how young sea lions are fighting for their lives...'

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Mama's gone fishing. Look at this little munchkin!

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'..and to discover why hammerhead sharks gather here in huge numbers.'

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Oh, my God! Look at this!

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'But on such an expedition...'

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Toby, you're drifting onto us. Turn left, turn left...

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'..we're at the mercy of the mighty Pacific Ocean.'

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Oh, God! That was close.

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'This is Mission Galapagos.'

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We're one third of the way through

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our 1,000-kilometre voyage of discovery around the Galapagos,

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travelling on the scientific research vessel, the Alucia.

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Our expedition is continuing 1,000 kilometres west of South America,

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in the Pacific...

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..where the Galapagos Islands lie.

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So far, our journey has revealed

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how animals here are adapting on land.

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These animals are getting shorter to survive.

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It's like a magic trick.

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Now, we want to discover how animals are finding ways

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to survive in the ocean.

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Our first mission is taking us to the north-west tip

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of the largest island, Isabela.

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We're going in search

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of one of the world's most elusive marine creatures...

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..the mola, or ocean sunfish.

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They've been studied near the surface here,

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but never at depth.

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RADIO CHATTER

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Using Alucia's state-of-the-art submersible,

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we're hoping to observe one in the deep...

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This is Control, over.

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..and set down a receiver

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to track the movement of sunfish in the future.

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-Yeah, I'll make my way across.

-Roger, Captain.

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There's a real buzz on board this morning.

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Everyone is excited about our plans for the day,

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particularly because this animal is just so rare,

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even here in the Galapagos.

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Marine biologist Dr Tierney Thys is leading our mission.

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She studies sunfish when they come to the surface.

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It's thought they do this to warm up in the sun, giving them their name.

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But no-one knows what sunfish do in deeper waters.

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You've got your standard hypothesis,

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that it's the food,

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and maybe, it's the finding mates.

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So, until you're down there with your own...

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you know, your own observational capabilities,

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you don't know the answer.

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They could be doing all sorts of different things.

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Taking us to the ocean floor is submersible pilot Buck Taylor.

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He's been a sub captain for almost 20 years.

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We couldn't be in safer hands.

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Galapagos is exciting on the way down.

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The last sort of 20, 30 metres, you've got everything running -

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sonars, lights - trying to see what the seabed's like.

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Touchdown and landing's definitely the bit that gets your heart going.

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For this mission, we'll be diving along the flanks of the volcano

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to a depth of 80 metres

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where Tierney thinks we might find sunfish.

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We'll then descend a further 20 metres,

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to the sea floor, to drop the receiver.

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The Nadir submersible will be our office for the next few hours.

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OK.

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It might be small,

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but it weighs a mighty eight tonnes.

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Just getting it into the water is a major operation.

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Nadir. That's swimmer clear. Am I clear to vent?

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-Roger. Venting now.

-He vents a lot, that guy.

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BUBBLING

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Control, Control, Nadir. Depth - ten metres. Life support, OK.

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Vent secure. Descending. Over.

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'Copy, Nadir.'

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We begin to descend down the wall of the volcano.

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The water is clouded with nutrients and plankton.

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It's teeming with life.

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This is a real hot spot.

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-Sea lion. Right in front of us. Look!

-Oh.

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-Look at how beautiful they are in the water.

-He's so graceful.

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We reach a depth of 80 metres. This is the spot where Tierney thinks

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we're most likely to see sunfish.

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How much is known about the mola,

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particularly the mola that hang out in the Galapagos?

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Well, not a lot.

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Not a lot. So, we're covering a lot of new ground.

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Ah! Mola! Deep! Coming right in.

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-Oh.

-Oh, my gosh!

-OK, so...

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-Mola, guys. Right in front of us.

-82 metres. 82 metres.

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Oh, my gosh! It's massive!

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Just an hour into our dive and we've found a sunfish.

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Tierney has never observed one this deep before.

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-It's the most odd shape for a fish.

-So elegant.

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It's really elegant despite the fact

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that it looks like a big dinner plate with two fins on either side.

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It just looks so unusual.

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I mean, how big can they get?

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Well, the sunfish can get to be over three metres long,

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-two and a half tonne.

-Two and a half tonne?!

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That's the weight of a big car.

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-Two big cars.

-A small truck.

-Yeah, easily.

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The sunfish is the world's largest bony fish.

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As it grows, it gains an incredible one kilogram per day.

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Its main food is jellyfish,

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so Tierney thinks that sunfish might be venturing down here

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to feed on them. But today, they're after something else.

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Oh!

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-It's getting cleaned. It's getting cleaned!

-It's getting cleaned!

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Sunfish skin carries as many as 40 different parasites.

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The tiny organisms are removed by cleaner fish.

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Hogfish are one of several species which do this here.

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Without this cleaning service,

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the sunfish would become infested with parasites,

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compromising its health.

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Is this the first time, then,

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that you can categorically say that Galapagos mola

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-are being cleaned at this depth, then?

-Yes.

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-Yes, because this is below our diver depth.

-Right, so that's a first.

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This is a first.

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It looks like it's sort of in another world right now.

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It doesn't seem like it's very aware of what's going on around it.

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By taking that unusual attitude,

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it's saying to everybody who could potentially clean it,

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"I'm ready for my spa treatment.

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"Come in and exfoliate me..."

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-"I'm not going to eat you."

-"..and I'm not going to eat you.

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"I'm at peace, and come do your thing."

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For me, they underscore how everybody plays a role,

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Even the tiniest little fishes are of service to the big ones.

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The big ones are of service to the little ones,

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and you need everyone.

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Everyone is what makes this system tick.

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But our dive isn't over yet.

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After two hours underwater,

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we reach a depth of nearly 100 metres.

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We've got one last thing to do before returning to the surface.

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-It's a good spot.

-OK, Rover.

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We're going to set up to deploy.

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Very little is known about this incredibly rare species.

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This receiver will help to further Tierney's research,

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enabling her to monitor the movement and behaviour of sunfish

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tagged at the surface with tracking devices.

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-Look at that.

-Good luck.

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Control, control - Nadir!

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Mark this waypoint, transducer deployment site, over.

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This is the first-ever deep-water receiver in Galapagos.

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-It's a special moment, Tierney.

-Yes, it is.

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It's powerful enough to run for 14 months.

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Being able to deploy listening stations below diver depth,

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it allows us to keep our finger on the pulse of a changing ocean.

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'You are clear to surface.

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'Clear to surface. Over.'

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That was a brilliant dive.

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Amazing.

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All right! That was a great dive!

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That was epic!

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That was amazing!

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Dream come true.

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I'm not going to get this grin off my face in a hurry.

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I get it. I totally get it now.

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-I know.

-I'm beginning to understand your obsession with sunfish.

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It's easy to be enchanted by them.

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ALL LAUGH

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WHOOPING

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Our next task is to study

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some of the most playful characters in Galapagos - sea lions.

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This group live on the coastline of Fernandina Island.

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They're one of the most endangered populations

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of sea lions on the planet.

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This is due in part to a regular weather phenomenon called El Nino.

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Its effects can be devastating for this population.

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And scientists believe that El Nino events are becoming more severe

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because of climate change.

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Marine biologist Dr Pelayo Salinas De Leon

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studies how El Nino affects sea lions.

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On this map,

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we can look for specific features of El Nino.

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For Galapagos, El Nino is really bad news,

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because it brings warm water from the Western Pacific

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that stops the production of food,

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you know, the basic levels, like plankton.

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Two cold currents are critical

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to all marine life in Galapagos.

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They're its lifeblood.

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These currents come from thousands of kilometres away

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and force nutrients up to the surface...

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..kick-starting a rich, marine food web.

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But El Nino disrupts these currents,

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raising water temperatures by up to two degrees

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which can severely affect the entire food chain.

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I'm getting an opportunity to observe first-hand

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how sea lions here are faring.

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So, we're just off the coast of Fernandina.

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It's nice and calm.

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The water's at its clearest, so we need to get going.

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The dive team has been out since first light,

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scouting the waters where the sea lions swim.

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We've had a quick recce in the little bay.

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-That's where we're going to go, in there.

-OK. Perfect.

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It's incredibly shallow, maybe one metre,

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and there's juvenile sea lions in the bay.

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Monitoring young sea lion numbers like this

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can provide evidence of how well the entire colony is doing.

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If females can't find enough food,

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fewer pups will be born.

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And because pups feed on their mothers' milk for up to three years,

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those that ARE born can easily starve.

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Scientists are seeing evidence of the effects of the last El Nino.

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Numbers of sea lion pups have plummeted.

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But in the water, there are clues

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as to which pups still might fare better in tougher times.

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The vast majority are females and there is a good reason for that.

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Both male and female sea lions can catch food from six months old,

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but because males are bigger,

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they need to suckle their mother's nutritious milk

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for longer than the females.

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Daughters, meanwhile, are more independent,

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learning to hunt for themselves at an earlier age.

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This can give them an advantage when El Nino hits and times are hard.

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It's been shown that, in harsher years,

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when there isn't a lot of food around,

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more females are likely to survive

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because they've got all that practice in,

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so there's this balance with nature.

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The males get more milk when they're younger,

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but when things get tough out here,

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the females do a little bit better.

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Galapagos sea lion numbers

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have dropped by more than 50% in the last 30 years -

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but it's not all bad news.

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Scientists are finding signs

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that these sea lions are adapting

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by foraging at different depths...

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..or moving to other parts of Galapagos

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where the food supply is more plentiful.

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Thanks to their intelligent and resourceful nature,

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it's hoped their numbers will bounce back.

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Adaptation is vital for survival in Galapagos.

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And this species of cormorant,

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one of the world's rarest birds,

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tells one of the most extraordinary adaptation stories of all.

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It, too, has responded to the challenges

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this unique island chain presents.

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Over millions of years,

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this bird has lost its ability to fly.

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Instead, the flightless cormorant is a superb swimmer.

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It's developed a larger body and strong leg muscles

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that make it a powerful diver.

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And it's evolved denser, down-like feathers

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that trap tiny air bubbles,

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preventing them from getting waterlogged during deep dives.

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Cormorants don't have any large land predators

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that require them to fly off at a moment's notice

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and also, all of their food is beneath the surface.

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And so, evolution

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has allowed the cormorant to spend all of its energy

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in becoming a better, sleeker diver,

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and for that, it doesn't need its wings.

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The flightless cormorant hunts a variety of prey,

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including octopus, eels and crustaceans.

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A diverse diet which helps it to survive harsh times

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when the food supply might be disrupted.

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Oh, no. Look!

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Mama's gone fishing.

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Look at this little munchkin!

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Hi, baby.

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Bye, sweet thing.

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Severe El Ninos can threaten the survival of the animals here...

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..but the cold currents are returning,

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bringing with them a bountiful food supply.

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This year is going to be amazing.

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With such cold water, there's going to be life everywhere.

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These cold currents will deliver the all-important nutrients

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that all life in Galapagos relies on.

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Orca pod just sighted...there!

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Right there! That's the male!

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A huge dorsal fin.

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There's about three or four of them.

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It just goes to show how rich these waters are.

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There's the male!

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The ocean here is heaving with food,

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all the way up the food chain. The orcas are here.

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There must be a lot of fish.

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I just saw a sea lion, there, in the background

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and it's all down to this current bringing all those nutrients,

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and then, the whole food chain just benefits from that bounty.

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INDISTINCT RADIO CHATTER

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For the next part of our expedition,

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we're focusing on the sharks of Galapagos.

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I've had such an incredible time

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getting to know the west of the Galapagos, but I am keen to see more

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and we are now heading to the two most northerly islands

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in the archipelago - the frontier islands of Wolf and Darwin.

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These two rugged islands are located 160 kilometres north of us.

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The journey takes the entire night.

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By daybreak...

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..we're anchored in the centre

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of the now extinct volcano, Wolf Island.

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The waters beneath us boast

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one of the highest concentrations of sharks in the world...

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..and 33 different species have been recorded here.

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Today, we're interested in a particular one...

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..the endangered scalloped hammerhead shark.

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They congregate here in vast numbers.

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Our task is to assess just how many.

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Shark expert Dr Alex Hearn is leading this mission.

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He's been studying hammerheads there for the past 11 years.

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The scalloped hammerhead shark is classified as endangered,

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and this is because it's been subject to overfishing,

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especially in this region.

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Over the last 20 years,

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there's been a huge increase

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in the demand for shark products,

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and in particular, shark fins for shark fin soup,

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and hammerhead sharks in particular,

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because of their large fins, are a desirable species to catch.

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In many parts of the world, hammerhead numbers have decreased

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by a staggering 99% in the past 30 years.

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Alex believes that the gathering here

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is now the biggest remaining one on the planet.

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If he's right, this will help the cause to protect them.

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But how do you count hammerheads when they're always on the move?

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The answer is by fitting them with tags

0:26:150:26:18

that will be detected by an underwater receiver.

0:26:180:26:21

The man responsible for this daunting task

0:26:230:26:26

is Dr Cesar Penaherrera.

0:26:260:26:27

His research group is the only one in the world

0:26:290:26:32

with permits to tag hammerheads like this.

0:26:320:26:34

So, this is one of the tags that we use. It's an acoustic tag

0:26:480:26:51

that sends a sound signal in the water.

0:26:510:26:54

In a normal dive, you can count probably, I don't know, 80 sharks.

0:26:540:26:59

But there are not 80, there are more sharks moving around the area

0:26:590:27:03

and that amount of the sharks that we tag,

0:27:030:27:05

it helps us to refine and get more accurate estimates.

0:27:050:27:08

The good that we are getting out of this information is vital,

0:27:080:27:11

not only for protecting sharks here

0:27:110:27:13

but to show what do we need to know about them.

0:27:130:27:16

Hammerheads are disturbed by the noise and bubbles

0:27:210:27:25

of scuba-diving gear.

0:27:250:27:26

So Cesar has to free-dive and tag them by hand.

0:27:260:27:31

He can hold his breath for an incredible two and a half minutes

0:27:320:27:36

and dive to depths of 15 metres.

0:27:360:27:39

Is there any other way to tag a shark other than free-diving?

0:27:390:27:43

Well, there are, but particularly with hammerhead sharks,

0:27:430:27:46

this is the fastest way to get most of the data that we need.

0:27:460:27:50

Hammerheads have eyes on either end of their wide heads.

0:27:550:27:58

This gives them superb depth perception,

0:28:020:28:05

allowing them to accurately track and catch fast-moving prey.

0:28:050:28:09

But it also means that they have a large blind spot

0:28:120:28:15

in front of their heads, which Cesar is only too happy to exploit.

0:28:150:28:19

I'm getting butterflies for you.

0:28:210:28:23

HE LAUGHS And I commend you.

0:28:230:28:24

Well, you should join me one of these days.

0:28:240:28:27

There is no way in heck I would ever do it!

0:28:270:28:29

You can see the hammerheads, the water is so clear.

0:28:450:28:48

That's mad.

0:28:480:28:50

Cesar aims for the thick skin at the base of the fin.

0:29:060:29:10

If he's not certain he'll hit the target,

0:29:120:29:15

he won't take the shot.

0:29:150:29:16

Did you get it?

0:29:350:29:36

-That was exciting! But, yeah, we got it.

-That's amazing!

0:29:360:29:41

Wow! I could see you for quite a distance, the water is so clear.

0:29:410:29:44

That's amazing.

0:29:440:29:46

He sets off to tag another shark.

0:29:490:29:52

As risky as this might seem,

0:29:560:29:58

the hammerheads are highly unlikely to attack Cesar.

0:29:580:30:01

Aggressive behaviours towards humans are incredibly rare.

0:30:010:30:05

Can you manage?

0:30:140:30:16

-Wow!

-Let me catch my breath.

0:30:160:30:18

That was quite something.

0:30:180:30:20

It's amazing to watch, Cesar.

0:30:200:30:22

It really is.

0:30:220:30:24

-Yeah. It is. It is...

-HE PANTS

0:30:240:30:26

Sorry, I have to catch my breath!

0:30:260:30:29

I don't know how you do that.

0:30:290:30:31

With ten hammerheads tagged,

0:30:370:30:39

these new individuals can be added to Alex's data-set,

0:30:390:30:43

and by analysing it,

0:30:430:30:45

he can begin to get an idea of the size of these congregations.

0:30:450:30:49

Preliminary estimates would suggest

0:30:520:30:54

maybe there's 500 or 600 hammerhead sharks here at any given time.

0:30:540:30:58

We are very happy.

0:30:580:31:00

Alex's calculations show

0:31:020:31:04

that this may be the biggest known congregation

0:31:040:31:07

of hammerheads on the planet.

0:31:070:31:09

This research helps to highlight just what an essential refuge

0:31:110:31:15

these waters are, and how important it is to protect them.

0:31:150:31:19

Darwin and Wolf are really among the last outposts in the world

0:31:200:31:25

where we have these huge numbers of sharks.

0:31:250:31:27

It's the front line of conservation.

0:31:270:31:29

Alex has studied sharks here for many years, but never on this scale.

0:31:310:31:36

Some of his previous data from GPS tags

0:31:370:31:40

is revealing another remarkable discovery...

0:31:400:31:43

Look how we've tagged them here and they've moved off...

0:31:430:31:45

..the distance hammerheads are travelling.

0:31:450:31:48

So, these are some tracks of the hammerheads

0:31:480:31:51

that we've tagged with satellite tags.

0:31:510:31:53

And so we can pinpoint their location at different times,

0:31:530:31:57

and we can see, first off, that they've moved incredible distances.

0:31:570:32:01

And so, we have these two sharks that headed out

0:32:010:32:03

about 200, 300 kilometres north-east,

0:32:030:32:05

and then we have this other one that headed over 500 kilometres out

0:32:050:32:10

and back again to Darwin and Wolf.

0:32:100:32:11

So, it's almost like Darwin and Wolf are the central hub.

0:32:110:32:15

Alex's research reveals

0:32:190:32:20

that hammerheads consistently return here.

0:32:200:32:23

But why do they gather in such large numbers?

0:32:270:32:30

Answering this is the second part of our mission.

0:32:330:32:35

Alucia is a hive of activity

0:32:460:32:50

as we prepare to dive with hammerheads.

0:32:500:32:53

Alex has chosen a prime location nicknamed "Shark Point".

0:32:580:33:03

It's full of large swells and strong currents.

0:33:040:33:07

The perfect place for us to observe hammerhead behaviour.

0:33:110:33:15

Yeah, roger that. Thanks very much.

0:33:200:33:22

The target location is nearly 50 metres down.

0:33:220:33:26

It's reachable with scuba gear,

0:33:260:33:28

but we want to study the hammerheads for as long as possible

0:33:280:33:31

without running out of air.

0:33:310:33:34

So, for this mission, we need Nadir.

0:33:340:33:37

We know where they are,

0:33:370:33:39

but we don't know exactly what they are doing.

0:33:390:33:41

The only way we can do that is by observation.

0:33:410:33:44

We're really limited by scuba,

0:33:440:33:47

which is why being able to jump into one of these

0:33:470:33:50

and get down there and really spend some quality time with the sharks

0:33:500:33:54

is going to give us so much more insight.

0:33:540:33:57

This gathering in large groups is a behaviour called "schooling".

0:33:580:34:02

But Alex doesn't know why hammerheads do it.

0:34:030:34:06

So, how common is this behaviour and what is it exactly?

0:34:080:34:10

Not all sharks school.

0:34:100:34:12

Hammerheads are perhaps the most iconic of the ones that do.

0:34:120:34:16

It basically means when you have a large group of sharks

0:34:160:34:20

that stick close together for an extended period.

0:34:200:34:23

Here, if we're lucky, we'll see schools of several hundred,

0:34:230:34:26

which is just... And it will blow your mind!

0:34:260:34:29

It really will!

0:34:290:34:31

At the spot where the hammerheads prefer to gather,

0:34:330:34:36

a huge current splits into two.

0:34:360:34:39

So, we'll have to battle turbulent waters

0:34:400:34:42

to get our sub into the right position.

0:34:420:34:45

We're going to need the second submersible,

0:34:480:34:50

Deep Rover, as a safety backup.

0:34:500:34:52

It's actually called Shark Point,

0:35:020:35:04

-because it's so sharky?

-Because it's so sharky, yeah.

-OK. OK.

0:35:040:35:07

And then the hammerheads like to sit in that spot

0:35:070:35:10

where the currents split,

0:35:100:35:11

so it's like this little sweet spot that they sit in.

0:35:110:35:14

That's where they want to be.

0:35:140:35:15

'Deep Rover has just dropped.'

0:35:190:35:21

As soon as we touch the water, we've got company.

0:35:210:35:24

Inquisitive silky sharks have come to investigate.

0:35:240:35:27

Two silkies. They love it. Oh, look at that.

0:35:290:35:32

Are they sort of renowned for being the most curious sharks?

0:35:320:35:35

-They are very curious.

-Look at that! They are loving it.

0:35:350:35:39

They seem to be fascinated by us.

0:35:390:35:40

They're more fascinated by us than we are of them.

0:35:400:35:43

INDISTINCT CONVERSATION

0:35:430:35:45

Venting now.

0:35:450:35:47

Oh, here we go.

0:35:480:35:50

Control, Control. Nadir.

0:35:560:35:57

Life support OK. Vents secure. Descending.

0:35:570:36:00

Because of the difficult conditions,

0:36:020:36:04

it's paramount that we work as a team

0:36:040:36:06

with Mission Control on board Alucia.

0:36:060:36:09

Once the subs get past about probably 80 metres,

0:36:090:36:13

visibility starts to go.

0:36:130:36:15

So, they're just going down, descending down,

0:36:150:36:18

so they need us to tell them in which direction to go to.

0:36:180:36:21

Together, we begin the dive

0:36:350:36:37

and reach the sea floor relatively quickly.

0:36:370:36:40

So far, no hammerheads.

0:36:450:36:47

But in Galapagos, you never know what surprises might lie in store.

0:36:490:36:53

I thought that was rubble,

0:36:540:36:56

but it's all...it's all crabs.

0:36:560:36:59

Wow!

0:36:590:37:01

These spider crabs are most probably gathering in large numbers to mate.

0:37:050:37:10

Grouping together like this

0:37:110:37:13

also helps to protect them from predators such as octopus.

0:37:130:37:16

From claw to claw, the largest males are over half a metre in length.

0:37:180:37:22

I think we should move further along.

0:37:350:37:38

I think we should move further to the Point, over?

0:37:380:37:40

We're edging closer to Shark Point.

0:37:490:37:52

But as we do, we're becoming more exposed to the currents.

0:37:530:37:57

They're starting to push all eight tonnes of our sub.

0:38:010:38:04

Yeah, affirmative. I don't think we'll go much further.

0:38:090:38:11

-The current's starting to pull quite hard.

-OK.

0:38:110:38:14

So, we'll just hold it on this point.

0:38:140:38:16

Come on, now, hammerheads.

0:38:180:38:19

Starting to get in the zone now.

0:38:190:38:22

Eyes peeled.

0:38:220:38:23

You can see the currents coming in from either side,

0:38:270:38:30

so we're right on the point now.

0:38:300:38:32

Holding our position in these strong currents is proving difficult.

0:38:340:38:38

Watch yourself, Toby. You're drifting onto us.

0:38:410:38:43

Turn left. Turn left.

0:38:430:38:45

We're being pushed dangerously close together.

0:38:470:38:49

A collision could spell disaster.

0:38:510:38:53

Stay away, Toby.

0:38:560:38:57

Keep coming to port.

0:38:570:38:59

OK, that's good there.

0:39:010:39:02

Fall down.

0:39:020:39:05

The current keeps getting stronger and stronger,

0:39:060:39:10

now pushing our sub towards the rocks.

0:39:100:39:12

ENGINES WHIR

0:39:120:39:15

Come on, baby! Hold it!

0:39:150:39:18

We're going backwards!

0:39:220:39:25

-ENGINES WHIR

-Come on, come on, come on...!

0:39:300:39:34

-Is that the current pushing you?

-Yeah.

-Oh, my God!

0:39:420:39:45

Nadir is no match for the surging water, even on full power.

0:39:460:39:51

-Jesus Christ!

-Look behind you. It's just mad.

0:39:510:39:56

Are you used to this? Does it happen a lot?

0:39:560:40:00

Er, no...

0:40:000:40:01

On board Alucia, the team is unaware of the problem.

0:40:070:40:11

We've lost communication.

0:40:110:40:13

Control, Nadir. Do you copy my last, over?

0:40:140:40:18

Turbulent water can disrupt comms,

0:40:190:40:22

as well as the tracking of our sub.

0:40:220:40:24

Comms, at the moment, are poor.

0:40:260:40:29

We'll move to clearer water

0:40:290:40:32

and, hopefully, get a better comms angle to them.

0:40:320:40:35

We finally spot some hammerheads,

0:40:380:40:40

but they're the last thing on our minds

0:40:400:40:42

as we're forced towards jagged rock.

0:40:420:40:45

Oh, God! That was close!

0:40:520:40:54

At last, Buck gets Nadir back under control.

0:41:030:41:06

Control, Nadir.

0:41:070:41:09

Over. Strong current.

0:41:090:41:11

Seeking permission to ascend back to the surface. Over.

0:41:110:41:15

Bottom depth, 116 metres. Over.

0:41:150:41:16

I'm kind of relieved to be going to the surface, I have to say.

0:41:160:41:19

Just this once.

0:41:190:41:21

Buck releases bubbles to help Alucia find us at the surface.

0:41:220:41:27

DEEP SPLOOSHING

0:41:360:41:39

On the scale of one to ten with things you've had to deal with,

0:41:590:42:02

-with respect to currents, what was that?

-That was up there.

0:42:020:42:06

I would say nine and three quarters.

0:42:060:42:08

It was taking us from 15 metres down to about 45.

0:42:080:42:12

Just pumping us up and down.

0:42:120:42:13

And I tell you what, as much as I've had an amazing time in the subs

0:42:130:42:18

and then really beginning to appreciate the oceans,

0:42:180:42:21

this experience has made me realise we've got to still respect it.

0:42:210:42:25

She's the boss, and every now and then, she lets you know it.

0:42:250:42:29

-Thank you for getting us out of the soup.

-Thank you.

0:42:290:42:31

And thanks for being part of the adventure.

0:42:310:42:34

-I loved it.

-When do we go back down?

0:42:340:42:36

-Half an hour?

-I'm going for a gin and tonic!

0:42:360:42:38

ALL LAUGH

0:42:380:42:40

Our failed sub dive is a setback.

0:42:450:42:48

We managed to catch a brief glimpse of hammerheads gathering,

0:42:500:42:53

but not long enough to be able to study them properly.

0:42:530:42:56

And now, with time running out before we need to move on,

0:42:570:43:01

we only have one more chance to observe their behaviour.

0:43:010:43:04

The team regroup to discuss the plan...

0:43:060:43:09

..and it's decided that the currents at Wolf Island

0:43:110:43:14

are just too strong to risk another sub dive.

0:43:140:43:17

We choose to relocate 20 kilometres north

0:43:190:43:22

to nearby Darwin Island.

0:43:220:43:24

Not much can live on this barren rock...

0:43:310:43:34

..but beneath the waves,

0:43:360:43:37

it's brimming with life and, hopefully, hammerheads.

0:43:370:43:40

Alex is keen to get into the water as soon as possible.

0:43:470:43:51

Now, we've got to get the sub in,

0:43:520:43:55

because hammerheads tend to move offshore at night to feed,

0:43:550:43:58

and come back at dawn. What I'm hoping is,

0:43:580:44:00

over the morning, as the hammerheads come back,

0:44:000:44:03

they'll build into a nice school

0:44:030:44:05

and then we can go down and start looking at their interactions.

0:44:050:44:08

So, let's really hope we can get the sub down there.

0:44:080:44:11

The bulk of the hammerheads are due back

0:44:150:44:17

from feeding out in deeper water at any moment.

0:44:170:44:21

This is the ideal time and place to see them school.

0:44:240:44:28

But Buck and dive master Steve have been assessing the site

0:44:370:44:41

and there's a problem.

0:44:410:44:43

Conditions, visibility-wise, are lovely.

0:44:440:44:47

Very blue. Lots of fish.

0:44:470:44:49

Lots of hammerheads. However...

0:44:490:44:52

-Currents, don't tell us.

-The current is strong.

0:44:520:44:54

-It's a definite no.

-At the moment.

0:44:540:44:58

It's just too dangerous to use the sub.

0:44:590:45:03

With time running out, we decide to attempt a dive with scuba instead.

0:45:030:45:07

Remind me again why it's not OK for the sub,

0:45:090:45:11

but it's OK for us, even though the currents are so strong?

0:45:110:45:15

A sub is very big and lumbering, and we find it hard to hide.

0:45:150:45:18

Whereas, you're small, agile, nimble. You can tuck into the rocks.

0:45:180:45:22

I don't know about the agile bit...

0:45:220:45:24

It would be crazy to waste this time.

0:45:240:45:27

It would. We need to observe more hammerheads.

0:45:270:45:29

We need to see what it's all about down there.

0:45:290:45:31

-And the action's happening now.

-So, they're there now?

0:45:310:45:34

-Are they schooling?

-They are schooling.

-Oh, right.

0:45:340:45:37

-Let's go.

-Wet-suit time?

-Yes.

-OK, perfect.

-Let's do it.

0:45:370:45:40

Scuba isn't an ideal way to observe hammerheads,

0:45:450:45:48

as the noise and bubbles spook them.

0:45:480:45:50

But, at least for a short time, at a safe depth,

0:45:540:45:57

we might get to watch them as they school.

0:45:570:45:59

To maximise his chances of studying this behaviour,

0:46:060:46:10

Alex has asked the dive team to construct an array of cameras.

0:46:100:46:15

They will be left unmanned,

0:46:150:46:17

recording on the sea floor,

0:46:170:46:19

and retrieved later.

0:46:190:46:21

I'm covering 360 degrees, basically.

0:46:220:46:25

So, towards you. Behind me.

0:46:250:46:27

Left and right.

0:46:270:46:28

Alex hopes this will help him

0:46:300:46:31

to better understand the sharks' behaviour.

0:46:310:46:34

INDISTINCT

0:46:400:46:42

This location is an iconic dive site at the tip of the island.

0:46:420:46:47

Darwin's Arch.

0:46:500:46:51

With dangerous rocks and strong currents,

0:46:540:46:57

it's a testing dive location for even the most experienced of divers.

0:46:570:47:02

You get big seas. There's strong currents.

0:47:040:47:07

You get counter currents. You get up-wellings,

0:47:070:47:10

and what we don't want to do is get into a situation

0:47:100:47:14

whereby we start drifting,

0:47:140:47:16

because there's a place further on known as the "Meat Grinder".

0:47:160:47:21

It will be the most advanced dive I've ever attempted.

0:47:260:47:29

But I'm in safe hands.

0:47:290:47:31

Bobby, my dive buddy, has a plan.

0:47:330:47:35

Liz, so what we're going to do

0:47:370:47:39

is I'm going to actually get behind you and push you down by your tank,

0:47:390:47:42

just to assist you to get down on the rocks as quick as possible.

0:47:420:47:46

So, then we'll proceed with the dive,

0:47:460:47:47

so we'll just bounce along the rocks. Get a little closer.

0:47:470:47:50

Right at the edge and then, hopefully,

0:47:500:47:52

we'll get the school of hammerheads right over the top of us.

0:47:520:47:55

Okey dokey. So, I'm not going to see you beside me,

0:47:550:47:57

but I'm going to feel you shoving me down into the water?

0:47:570:48:00

I'll be right there with you the whole time.

0:48:000:48:01

I'll just be right behind you.

0:48:010:48:03

Conditions above the surface are intense.

0:48:190:48:22

Beneath, it looks almost serene.

0:48:250:48:28

But powerful swells and currents are in force.

0:48:300:48:33

To avoid them,

0:48:380:48:40

we descend quickly, looking for shelter among the rocks.

0:48:400:48:44

The filming team has the added difficulty

0:49:130:49:16

of taking the camera rig with them.

0:49:160:49:18

Underwater cameraman Mike Pitts

0:49:220:49:24

is able to communicate with the rest of the team with a special mask.

0:49:240:49:29

There's such a strong

0:49:310:49:34

surging current here.

0:49:340:49:36

But we're going to get down.

0:49:360:49:38

As predicted, the hammerheads are startled by the noise

0:49:450:49:49

and bubbles of our scuba gear.

0:49:490:49:51

The unmanned cameras will be vital

0:49:510:49:54

for observing their natural, undisturbed behaviour.

0:49:540:49:58

Jorge, can you hear me? Yo!

0:49:580:50:02

Let's go!

0:50:020:50:03

Only the team deploying the camera rig venture beyond the reef.

0:50:060:50:10

This could be quite good here, I think.

0:50:170:50:19

The camera is positioned, weighted down

0:50:220:50:25

and switched on to record for four hours.

0:50:250:50:29

Well, I hope nothing happens to it...

0:50:310:50:34

..and the sharks don't bite it.

0:50:350:50:37

Alex and I find a position to anchor ourselves at the reef's edge,

0:50:400:50:44

just out of the currents.

0:50:440:50:46

Beyond us, the ledge drops off hundreds of metres.

0:50:460:50:50

The hammerheads should come right past this point, so, in theory,

0:50:540:50:58

we're in the perfect spot to see them gathering.

0:50:580:51:01

All we can do now

0:51:040:51:06

is watch and wait.

0:51:060:51:08

And then it begins.

0:51:160:51:18

The hammerheads are gathering

0:51:280:51:30

and our cameras are rolling.

0:51:300:51:33

It's just like being in an aquarium.

0:51:420:51:44

The only difference with this aquarium is it's for real.

0:51:450:51:50

Oh, my God! Look at this!

0:51:560:51:58

OK, we're just going to go up now gently.

0:52:440:52:47

Finally, just before we hit the surface,

0:52:470:52:51

Galapagos has one more surprise for us.

0:52:510:52:54

I can't believe it!

0:52:540:52:56

Whale shark! Whale shark!

0:52:560:52:59

A passing whale shark,

0:53:020:53:04

the biggest fish in the ocean.

0:53:040:53:07

Whoo!

0:53:070:53:08

Whoohoo! That is unbelievable!

0:53:080:53:12

Something on the surface, port side, 15 metres.

0:53:220:53:27

Good dive. Good dive.

0:53:310:53:32

Oh, my God! That was amaz...!

0:53:360:53:38

Hammerheads, fireworks and fish.

0:53:400:53:42

Shark everywhere.

0:53:420:53:45

That was totally worth it.

0:53:470:53:48

It's like a dream. Like the best dream you would ever have,

0:53:480:53:51

except it's real.

0:53:510:53:53

That was a good morning at the office!

0:53:540:53:56

HE LAUGHS

0:53:560:53:58

By observing these hammerheads school,

0:54:040:54:07

Alex is closer than ever before

0:54:070:54:09

to explaining why they group like this.

0:54:090:54:11

The hammerheads. They were coming in. They were circling.

0:54:160:54:19

What it appears to be is that the largest females

0:54:190:54:22

tend to dominate the centre of the school,

0:54:220:54:25

and the smallest ones are around the outside.

0:54:250:54:27

And then the males are kind of trying to mate

0:54:270:54:29

with the females that are at the centre.

0:54:290:54:32

It was a stunning dive.

0:54:320:54:33

It really was.

0:54:330:54:34

Alex believes this behaviour

0:54:370:54:39

is part of a complex courtship ritual.

0:54:390:54:42

The largest, more sexually mature females

0:54:460:54:49

place themselves at the centre of the school.

0:54:490:54:53

This means that only the strongest males,

0:54:530:54:55

capable of making their way through, succeed in mating with them.

0:54:550:54:59

Footage from our locked-off cameras supports this theory...

0:55:020:55:05

..shedding light on our understanding

0:55:090:55:11

of hammerhead behaviour.

0:55:110:55:13

That's just opened my eyes to... this extraordinary world

0:55:240:55:28

that we hardly understand, beneath the waves. It's just...

0:55:280:55:31

It's just shifted something in my brain.

0:55:310:55:34

It's more glorious than you can possibly imagine.

0:55:380:55:41

On this leg of our journey,

0:55:520:55:55

Alucia and her technology have helped us to understand

0:55:550:55:58

the rapidly changing oceans here like never before.

0:55:580:56:01

We've found a rare ocean giant in the deep...

0:56:080:56:12

..learned more about the survival strategies of sea lions...

0:56:140:56:18

..and we've come closer to revealing why hammerheads gather here.

0:56:210:56:24

Our responsibility to protect these waters

0:56:300:56:33

has never been more important.

0:56:330:56:36

'Next time on Mission Galapagos...

0:56:390:56:43

'we'll explore what the future holds for this last, great wilderness.'

0:56:430:56:48

We're heading to a lush, green world, unlike any other.

0:56:480:56:53

'What does the magma chamber, deep beneath Galapagos...'

0:56:540:56:58

This place is just incredible.

0:56:580:57:01

'..reveal about the future of these volcanic islands?'

0:57:010:57:04

It feels pretty special to sit here imagining

0:57:040:57:07

that lava used to rush through here.

0:57:070:57:09

'How are scientists protecting the ancient migration routes

0:57:100:57:14

'of the Islands' most iconic creatures?'

0:57:140:57:17

Tortoises will definitely suffer the consequences.

0:57:170:57:21

'And how can deploying the latest drone technology

0:57:210:57:25

'help us to save an enchanted forest?'

0:57:250:57:29

This place is so completely different

0:57:290:57:31

to anywhere else I've been on these islands.

0:57:310:57:33

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