Future Frontiers Galapagos


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In the vastness of the Pacific,

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a once-in-a-lifetime expedition is underway.

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We're on a voyage of discovery,

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covering over 1,000 kilometres through the Galapagos Islands.

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Galapagos, one of the greatest treasures of the natural world.

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This place is just incredible.

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Over 1,000 species here can be found nowhere else on Earth,

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and they've evolved in extraordinary ways.

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We're on the final leg of one of the most ambitious scientific

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expeditions ever attempted in Galapagos.

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We want to find out what the future holds for the wildlife here,

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now that our human footprint is being felt like never before.

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I'm Liz Bonnin. I'm a wild animal biologist, helping to carry out

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ground-breaking research in the field.

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I'm joined by a team of world-renowned scientists.

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Using cutting-edge technology, we'll illuminate invisible worlds

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beneath the earth,

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above the forests...

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and below the waves...

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They're so beautiful, they really are.

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..to reveal how the wildlife here is battling to survive.

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We don't want to lose it. If we lose it, it's for good.

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'We'll study the animals most at risk,

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'to understand how we can protect them.'

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That's a good, healthy individual.

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'And we'll witness the wonders of a new Galapagos island being born.'

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It's so beautiful down there! It's so beautiful!

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This is Mission: Galapagos.

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Last time, we followed a mysterious ocean giant, the sunfish,

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to discover what it got up to in the deep.

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-Whoa!

-It's getting cleaned! It's getting cleaned!

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It's getting cleaned.

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And we observed how huge numbers of hammerheads

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gather here to find a mate.

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Oh, my God, look at this!

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Our explorations of the ocean here have made such an impression on me.

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The sheer diversity and magnificence of life forms

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on a scale I never imagined.

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The research going on here is vital.

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Not only is it revealing new information about our oceans

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but it's also raising important questions about the future.

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97% of Galapagos is uninhabited,

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making it one of the most incredible nature reserves on Earth.

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But now its wildlife shares a few islands with 30,000 people.

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And it's a number growing

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by thousands of new arrivals every year.

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So this is where we are.

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The nearest mainland, South America, is 1,000km that way,

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and that's the reason why the Galapagos have remained one of the

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most pristine places on the planet - their sheer isolation.

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But now we're heading to these islands,

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to the centre and east of the archipelago,

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where the impact of man is more evident.

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We want to find out how the marine life in Galapagos is faring now that

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our human footprint is growing.

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Our first destination is San Cristobal.

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6,000 people live here.

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There's a thriving fishing industry and it's a popular tourist stop-off.

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5km along the coast from the capital city of Galapagos is a

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beach that's vital to green sea turtles.

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The turtles rely on this long expanse of soft sand

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and plentiful supply of food - algae.

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Our team, led by marine biologist Juan Pablo Munoz,

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have set up on the beach.

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This is pretty much an oasis for sea turtles here.

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The Galapagos is kind of one of the few places in the world

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that is still safe for them.

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Turtles are extremely vulnerable to changes in the ocean,

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and Juan Pablo's worried the waters here may be becoming polluted.

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Recent evidence suggests he has cause for concern.

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The other day we found a dead sea turtle.

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We opened the stomach of the sea turtle.

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We thought that we were going to find maybe a little bit of plastic,

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and it was like all the stomach was full of plastic.

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Those kind of things that are floating, they look like

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algae floating as well, so they tend to eat that.

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I'm helping to examine the turtles to find out how healthy they are and

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look for any evidence of plastic.

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But to do that, you have to catch them.

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Which is easier said than done.

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Sea turtles can hold their breath for up to four hours.

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And those powerful flippers allow them to reach speeds of over 30kph.

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I think they're giving them the runaround.

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Three turtles have just popped up, right in front of the divers.

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DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS

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The team need to work together,

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closing in cautiously on the turtles.

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They wait for just the right moment and dive.

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As soon as they've captured a turtle, they swim it to the surface

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for a breath of air.

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They've got it, they've got one. They've got a turtle.

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So we time from the moment it's captured out in the water.

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When they get back there, we do all the health checks,

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it's back in the water in 20 minutes.

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Fingers crossed. Well done, chaps.

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It's magnificent.

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So now everyone has a job to do.

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They've got to work really, really fast,

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get that green turtle back in the water as soon as possible,

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but every bit of information that we can gain will ultimately help to

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protect this population.

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'The wellbeing of each turtle is our priority.

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'Wildlife vet, Professor Greg Lewbart, is on hand.'

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One way to see if the turtle is eating well

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is to look inside its mouth.

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A-ha!

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Somebody's been eating.

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-So...

-Do you want me to shine this for you and you can open it up?

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Yeah, that'd be great.

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-OK, ready?

-Look in the mouth. Yeah. Ready?

-Yeah.

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Just shine back into the back of the mouth.

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There. Can you look into the...? Someone just had lunch.

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-Do you see the algae in there?

-Well, yes. Had a good meal.

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So I think we can look by this animal's condition and know it's

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eating, but we can actually see some

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remnants of the salad lunch she had.

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-That all looks really good.

-Can I cover her eyes now?

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-Yeah, yeah, you can.

-This works wonders for just calming the turtle.

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The sooner you can put this on, it's nice and cool and wet,

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the better for it.

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'Very little is known about the lives of sea turtles,

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'so this is the perfect opportunity

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'to gather as much information as possible.'

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73.

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'We also take a blood sample.'

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And that can give them all sorts of information,

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from when a turtle is caught,

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it'll have a certain amount of stress hormone.

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All animals have that, it's a survival mechanism,

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but if an individual is in a more polluted area,

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its immunity's compromised, its stress levels will be higher.

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So even that, comparing a healthy individual's stress levels,

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to that of a non-healthy individual, can be really valuable.

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'The last task is to measure its heart rate.'

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Try about right here.

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Perfect.

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-36.

-36, that's about what we expected.

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-Heart rate's 36.

-Yeah, perfect.

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That's a good, healthy individual. Its heart rate isn't too high.

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That's good news.

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Are we ready to let her go? Let's let her go. Go!

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Go, go, go! Off you go, beauty.

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Nearly there. There you go.

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Fabulous. Back in the ocean.

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All done in 18 minutes, which is really good.

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Minimal handling time, minimum stress.

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No rest for the wicked.

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The more they can get today, the better for their data.

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As the team continues to health check more turtles here,

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there are no obvious signs that they've ingested plastic.

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The turtles we encounter all appear to be in good health.

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This is just the start of a long-term study

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to see how the turtles here are coping.

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The data we've gathered will act as a useful baseline when Juan Pablo

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returns to carry out more health checks in future.

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He's also leading an initiative

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to clean up the beaches most at risk from pollution.

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All sea turtles are almost disappearing, all around the world.

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They have been here in this planet since dinosaur times,

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so 200 million years ago,

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and only in the last 200 years they're being endangered.

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Juan Pablo is determined that Galapagos remains a haven

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for green sea turtles.

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-Woo! Good job!

-Esta bien!

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Given a chance, in clean waters,

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these magnificent creatures can live to 100.

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A few more kilometres along the coast

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is an important habitat for sharks in Galapagos - mangroves.

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I'm joining a team of scientists who are investigating how to protect the

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sharks from fishermen's nets.

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Sharks are apex predators.

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Sitting at the top of the food chain,

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their health is a vital indicator for the entire marine ecosystem.

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But they're one of the most vulnerable animals in the ocean.

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100 million sharks are caught by fishermen every year.

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Although Galapagos is protected from industrial-scale fishing,

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sharks are still very much at risk.

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Some species of shark migrate to mangroves,

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like these at San Cristobal, to have their young.

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The long roots here provide shelter and protection for these vulnerable

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young sharks from predators.

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Shark pups should be safe within the protection of the mangroves,

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but our scientists have found

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that they're still being caught accidentally by local fishermen.

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We want to find out why this is happening.

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This is a beautiful little volcanic lagoon,

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where hopefully there will be sharks.

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During the day they seek shelter, safety,

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in shallow lagoons like this one.

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Using special nets, we're capturing and tagging the young sharks,

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to find out where they're going.

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So we're just deploying the net from one end of the lagoon to the other,

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just to stop any of the juveniles from exiting the lagoon again.

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And it looks like we've just got several very close to the mangrove.

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Just as with the turtles,

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for each shark caught, we'll need to work fast.

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We just need two minutes to get the sharks here in the boat.

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Everything needs to be really fast.

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-Two minutes?

-Yeah, maximum two minutes.

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The time the shark is out of the water is really, really important,

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and I'm the only one who's going to be keeping tabs on that,

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so if I forget to do that then we lose track of how long it's been out

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of the water and that is not a good idea.

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It's not long before the sharks make an appearance.

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OK, we've literally just deployed the net

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and there are two sharks in it already.

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OK, just tell me when he's completely out of the water.

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-OK, we have one.

-Good. 11:49.10.

-OK, ready, guys.

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Each juvenile shark has an ID tag fitted

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so its movements can be tracked.

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-Come on.

-Floy tag number?

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Floy tag is 2235.

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Total length is 74.1.

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Yeah. Male or female?

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-It's a male.

-It's a male?

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You've just done one minute, guys, you're at one minute down.

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-It is...

-You got it?

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-Wait.

-7.05.

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Look at you.

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Back in the water.

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You did it in less than two minutes, guys, well done.

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They're so on it, they really are.

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1:10, 1:20, that's fab.

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And once they're out, it's like lightning speed.

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This research is still in its early stages,

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but it's confirming that these young sharks need more protection.

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THEY CELEBRATE

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The tracking data is revealing that

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juvenile sharks don't stay within the safety of their own mangroves.

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As they get bigger, the sharks leave the protection of the nursery to

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visit other mangroves along the coast, braving open waters and

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straying into fishing zones.

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A juvenile shark won't just stay around its nursery.

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It will go to other nurseries as well.

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Why would they do that? Do we know why?

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Because of competition.

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There are a lot of babies and they all want food,

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so they start exploring other places.

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So we need to protect the routes the juveniles are using,

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-not just the mangroves?

-Yeah.

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Using this data to create no-fishing zones between the mangroves will

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help prevent these young sharks from getting caught

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in the fishermen's nets.

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One of the things I love the most about wildlife research

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is the constant surprises.

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Each new study reveals more information that forces us to

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re-evaluate our understanding of species and their habitats,

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and how to protect them.

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Back on Alucia, our next mission

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is to study one of the most fragile marine animals in Galapagos -

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corals.

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So far on our expedition we've seen no evidence of coral reefs.

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Severe weather events, called El Ninos, have struck Galapagos in

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recent decades, raising sea temperatures here

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by up to 4 degrees. CRASH OF LIGHTNING

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This has caused many corals to become so stressed

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they've eventually died.

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12 of the 13 coral reefs here have been wiped out.

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The only one that survives is located in the north of the islands.

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But this last reef is under threat,

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as many scientists think climate change is making El Ninos worse.

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We want to see how the coral is faring.

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It gets dark quickly on the equator,

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it's just gone six and the sun's beginning to set,

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but that gives us an opportunity to do something really special.

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Heading into the hidden world of the Galapagos oceans at night.

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This is a good time to assess the health of the coral here,

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because our team are using a ground-breaking technique to observe

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its biofluorescence - a mysterious ability certain corals have to

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absorb the blue light of the ocean

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and emit it as incredible neon colours.

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These colours indicate the coral's health,

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but are invisible to the naked eye.

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To see them, our team need to shine a blue light on the reef,

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which works best at night.

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We see the world in a multitude of colours,

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but down there the water absorbs all the wavelengths except for blue.

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And it looks like a pretty one-dimensional world to us,

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but life is actually making use of that blue

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in the most beautiful and extraordinary way.

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Only the most experienced divers are entering the water tonight.

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They're absolutely fearless.

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It's a night dive in the Galapagos

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and there are a lot of sharks around.

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Kudos to them, really and truly.

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Everybody happy?

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OK, let's go down.

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Reefs are huge limestone structures

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created by the millions of tiny corals that live on them.

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They're hotspots of biodiversity.

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Come forward.

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If this last remaining reef in Galapagos can't be saved,

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a vital part of the marine ecosystem will be lost forever.

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As soon as the team switches on their blue lights...

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Yeah, that's good, that's good.

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..a magical world opens up before their eyes.

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Now look at that!

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Understanding how and why corals biofluoresce like this

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is a new frontier for science.

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Unlocking their secrets will help us to understand how reefs are

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threatened and how to protect them.

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They're so beautiful, they really are.

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Bright green fluorescence like this indicates the coral is healthy.

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Scientists think they glow this colour to protect themselves from

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the sun's UV rays, like a kind of sunscreen.

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Looks great.

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The level of green fluorescence suggests the reef is doing well.

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But our team is also detecting other colours.

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Blue patches can indicate coral bleaching,

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damage from rising water temperatures.

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And red can mean the coral is dead, covered with bacteria.

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Corals are the most sensitive indicators of ocean health.

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For now, the last reef in Galapagos seems to be in good shape.

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OK, team, that's it, we're going up.

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But with some signs of damage,

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and with sea temperatures predicted to rise in the future,

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our scientists will be monitoring this precious site very closely.

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Our understanding of biofluorescence is still at an early stage

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but this is a perfect example of how awe-inspiring nature can be,

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and how little we still know about it.

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I mean, I can only imagine what's left to be discovered down there.

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And it also drives home just how important it is to protect

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environments like these.

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CHATTERING OF RADIO

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Our mission is focusing next on how our human footprint

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is impacting the land here.

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We want to observe a species on the edge of extinction...

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..and that's found nowhere else on Earth.

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We've been travelling around these islands for a good few weeks now and

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it's been this breathtaking journey

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through a dramatic volcanic landscape.

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But on this, the next stage of our mission,

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we're heading to a lush green world, unlike any other, where an endemic

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plant is fighting for survival.

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It's located on the fertile island of Santa Cruz.

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Lying 500 metres above sea level, we need to take to the air to reach it.

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Echo Mike Delta, we're ready to fly.

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This critically endangered plant

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provides a home for countless species.

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It's a vital part of the ecosystem,

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helping to trap moisture from the air and irrigating the undergrowth.

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This forest is filled with a plant

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that's endemic to the Galapagos.

0:26:290:26:32

It's related to marigolds and daisies.

0:26:320:26:36

In fact, these are all essentially giant daisy trees, called scalesia.

0:26:360:26:40

This place is so completely different

0:26:430:26:45

to anywhere else I've been on these islands.

0:26:450:26:47

Just over 100 years ago, one species of scalesia

0:26:510:26:55

covered nearly 100 square kilometres of this island.

0:26:550:26:59

Today, just one square kilometre remains.

0:26:590:27:03

These beautiful, delicate trees once dominated

0:27:050:27:09

the Highlands throughout the archipelago,

0:27:090:27:11

each different from the next,

0:27:110:27:13

depending on which island they were on, but all descended from a single

0:27:130:27:17

daisy-like ancestor, whose seed managed to hitch a ride in the

0:27:170:27:21

feathers or perhaps even the belly of a bird

0:27:210:27:25

winging its way to the Galapagos.

0:27:250:27:27

Scientists want to save the tiny amount of scalesia that's left.

0:27:290:27:34

To do that, they need to gain

0:27:340:27:36

insights into how the forest has been impacted and by what.

0:27:360:27:40

Professor Gonzalo Rivas is using the latest drone technology to take

0:27:430:27:48

aerial photos of the forest canopy.

0:27:480:27:50

He's particularly interested in another plant in the area,

0:27:520:27:57

an invasive species of tree

0:27:570:27:59

he believes is responsible for scalesia's downfall.

0:27:590:28:03

What exactly is an invasive species, then?

0:28:050:28:08

So, an invasive species is the one that we humans brought in.

0:28:080:28:11

So there we have a cedar tree, the tall one.

0:28:110:28:14

That is a highly invasive species that have been brought in the last

0:28:140:28:19

century by humans.

0:28:190:28:22

Fast-growing cedar was brought in to provide wood for early settlers.

0:28:220:28:27

And once it took root, it quickly spread.

0:28:270:28:31

But it's not the only invasive species here.

0:28:310:28:35

Introduced guava is a big problem, too,

0:28:350:28:37

and blackberry is also a really noxious weed,

0:28:370:28:39

they can grow really fast.

0:28:390:28:41

So how exactly does this technology work, then, Gonzalo?

0:29:060:29:09

While the drone is flying, it's taking infrared pictures that,

0:29:090:29:14

as you can see in the monitor, it's giving us this colour...

0:29:140:29:17

-Yeah.

-..that afterwards I will use to code the species.

0:29:170:29:22

Gonzalo's camera reveals secret signatures...

0:29:240:29:27

the levels of infrared light reflected by the leaves

0:29:290:29:33

of each plant below.

0:29:330:29:35

The intensity of colour indicates how healthy each plant is,

0:29:350:29:40

giving us an instant snapshot of which ones are doing best.

0:29:400:29:44

In this computer-enhanced image,

0:29:470:29:49

there's barely any evidence of scalesia.

0:29:490:29:52

The blue and purple areas are

0:29:530:29:56

empty space where it once would have thrived.

0:29:560:29:59

The darker red patches indicate the invasive plants that are winning the

0:29:590:30:03

fight for space and light.

0:30:030:30:05

They are the biggest threats to scalesia.

0:30:050:30:08

Gonzalo, how important is the data you're amassing?

0:30:110:30:14

This kind of data is extremely important because it will inform

0:30:140:30:18

directly the National Park and also other scientists to know where the

0:30:180:30:22

main invasive species, plant species, are in the island.

0:30:220:30:26

The results of studies like these are worrying.

0:30:300:30:33

99% of the scalesia forest here has been crowded out.

0:30:340:30:39

I mean, I suppose with only 1% left of the scalesia forest in the

0:30:420:30:45

Highlands, some people might argue, "Look, just let it all die out,

0:30:450:30:48

"let cedar take over."

0:30:480:30:50

But why is that just not the answer?

0:30:500:30:52

This is a unique species and we don't want to lose it.

0:30:520:30:56

It's amazingly important, and if we lose it, it's for good.

0:30:560:31:01

The extinction of scalesia would be catastrophic for the wildlife that

0:31:040:31:08

depends on it.

0:31:080:31:09

Gonzalo and his team are using the drone images

0:31:180:31:21

to target the species that pose the biggest threat.

0:31:210:31:24

They'll focus on removing them, one by one,

0:31:300:31:34

to make space for scalesia once more.

0:31:340:31:36

Galapagos National Park aims to double scalesia's numbers

0:31:440:31:48

and restore this unique and enchanting forest

0:31:480:31:52

to its former glory.

0:31:520:31:53

I'm camping in it tonight.

0:32:020:32:05

It's a rare chance to appreciate its beauty.

0:32:050:32:08

Gonzalo, I was pretty surprised to hear the stats about scalesia,

0:32:120:32:16

you know, that only 1% of these forests remain here.

0:32:160:32:19

The scalesia numbers are striking.

0:32:190:32:22

And we need to use those as...

0:32:220:32:26

as a thermometer, to keep a good eye on these indicator species.

0:32:260:32:31

There's...there's a wake-up call that we need now.

0:32:310:32:37

We do not need to wait until scalesia has gone,

0:32:370:32:41

until other species are gone.

0:32:410:32:43

Seeing for myself what's left of the scalesia forest does make me worry

0:32:540:32:58

about the future of the Galapagos.

0:32:580:33:00

But on this journey, I've also met a whole host of organisations and

0:33:000:33:04

scientists who are committed to making sure that's what's happening

0:33:040:33:07

in the rest of the world doesn't end up happening here,

0:33:070:33:10

that the Galapagos can be the model for how to succeed in protecting the

0:33:100:33:14

natural world.

0:33:140:33:16

Travelling down from the scalesia forest, you can see great trails

0:33:380:33:42

forged through the vegetation.

0:33:420:33:44

They're made by a true creature of habit, which has been using the same

0:33:520:33:57

migration routes to travel across islands for thousands of years.

0:33:570:34:02

The giant tortoise.

0:34:060:34:08

Arguably the most recognisable animal on Galapagos.

0:34:100:34:15

It even gave the islands their name.

0:34:250:34:28

Galapago means tortoise in Old Spanish.

0:34:280:34:31

I'm meeting biologist Steve Blake,

0:34:480:34:50

who's been studying the epic journeys these giant tortoises make.

0:34:500:34:54

Basically, tortoises follow where the good food is,

0:34:560:34:59

and the greenness of the vegetation

0:34:590:35:01

depends on the elevation.

0:35:010:35:02

So, as seasonal swings in rainfall kick in through the Galapagos year,

0:35:020:35:07

the tortoises follow that sort of

0:35:070:35:10

pendulum of greenness as it moves up and down the island.

0:35:100:35:13

But these seasonal migrations have been affected

0:35:130:35:16

by the arrival of humans here.

0:35:160:35:19

Puerto Ayora, the largest town in Galapagos,

0:35:220:35:26

was settled in 1925 as a small fishing village.

0:35:260:35:29

Since then, in the space of just one tortoise generation,

0:35:320:35:36

the population has exploded to over 12,000 people.

0:35:360:35:39

Steve wants to discover what impact

0:35:450:35:47

this is having on the ancient tortoise routes.

0:35:470:35:50

He's been fitting them with

0:35:500:35:52

satellite tags to follow their movements.

0:35:520:35:54

We have about 30-odd tortoises wearing GPS tags on Santa Cruz.

0:35:570:36:02

And those tags, each one records a GPS fix of the tortoise every hour.

0:36:020:36:08

Steve's tagging reveals the huge distances tortoises travel

0:36:100:36:14

to find food.

0:36:140:36:16

Some migrate from sea level to the peaks of volcanoes.

0:36:180:36:22

But Steve's also discovering that the ever-increasing human population

0:36:280:36:32

is having a major impact on these well-worn paths.

0:36:320:36:35

What do we know about how much these migration routes may have changed

0:36:400:36:43

with the growing population here in the Galapagos?

0:36:430:36:46

100 years ago, this giant tortoise behind us was already migrating up

0:36:460:36:52

and down Galapagos, but in completely natural vegetation.

0:36:520:36:56

Today that same tortoise encounters very different conditions up here.

0:36:560:37:01

Fences, roads and other barriers

0:37:030:37:06

that potentially block that migration.

0:37:060:37:09

It's not just the future of giant tortoises at stake.

0:37:120:37:15

These reptiles play a vital role in the whole ecosystem here.

0:37:170:37:21

They've been called the gardeners of the Galapagos.

0:37:230:37:26

As they plough through the vegetation, they spread seeds and

0:37:270:37:31

clear plants, creating light and space for new ones.

0:37:310:37:36

They even stir up insects for birds to eat.

0:37:380:37:42

Without these migration routes allowing giant tortoises to find the

0:37:420:37:46

food they need, these islands would look very different.

0:37:460:37:49

Identifying and mapping these important routes

0:37:510:37:54

will help to inform future expansion plans.

0:37:540:37:56

The trick will be how to sustain the migration and give tortoises what

0:37:590:38:02

they need against the backdrop of development of Galapagos.

0:38:020:38:07

TRACKER BEEPS QUIETLY

0:38:070:38:11

Steve sometimes struggles to get a clear tracking signal from the

0:38:110:38:14

tortoises in the dense forest.

0:38:140:38:16

But all that is about to change,

0:38:280:38:30

thanks to support from an unlikely place.

0:38:320:38:34

Next year we'll be putting some tags on them that will communicate

0:38:360:38:40

directly with the International Space Station

0:38:400:38:43

and send down our GPS data to us, so it'll be much easier to track and

0:38:430:38:50

then follow them over the longer haul with much less effort.

0:38:500:38:54

New miniature tags are also furthering Steve's research,

0:38:550:39:00

allowing him to study the next generation of giant tortoises.

0:39:000:39:04

These youngsters, beaming signals to the International Space Station,

0:39:060:39:10

represent the future of tortoise research.

0:39:100:39:13

And they're helping to ensure the

0:39:160:39:18

preservation of these ancient migration routes for years to come.

0:39:180:39:22

Galapagos is a dynamic place,

0:39:320:39:35

vulnerable to the powerful forces that lie just below the surface.

0:39:350:39:39

For its wildlife,

0:39:430:39:45

threats don't only come from the increasing influence of mankind.

0:39:450:39:49

They also come from deep within the Earth.

0:39:500:39:53

These volcanic islands can change at a moment's notice.

0:39:550:39:58

Alucia has brought us back to the west of the archipelago...

0:40:080:40:11

Mike Delta clear.

0:40:130:40:15

..where our mission began.

0:40:150:40:17

In the far south of the island of Isabela

0:40:210:40:25

is Sierra Negra,

0:40:250:40:27

the largest volcano in Galapagos.

0:40:270:40:30

Scientists warn it could erupt within a few decades,

0:40:340:40:38

creating lava flows that would

0:40:380:40:40

devastate all living things in its path,

0:40:400:40:44

including some of the most unique species in Galapagos.

0:40:440:40:50

Our mission is to predict how the volcano might next erupt.

0:40:530:40:57

To do that, we're going inside it,

0:40:590:41:01

within one of its vast magma chambers.

0:41:030:41:06

That down there is the deepest known cave in the Galapagos.

0:41:110:41:15

But it's not just any old cave,

0:41:150:41:17

it's a vent that branches off from the Sierra Negra volcano here on

0:41:170:41:20

Isabela. It would fill up with lava that would splatter out of the top,

0:41:200:41:25

but eventually all that lava drained out,

0:41:250:41:27

leaving a 100-metre deep chamber that we're going to explore.

0:41:270:41:31

Leading our team are vulcanologists Brent Garry and Scott Hughes.

0:41:350:41:40

They plan to scan the interior of this cave to create a 3D map.

0:41:410:41:47

Knowing the exact size and structure of the chamber will reveal the scale

0:41:500:41:54

and character of the last eruption that occurred here,

0:41:540:41:58

indicating how Sierra Negra is likely to erupt again in the future.

0:41:580:42:03

There are a lot of volcanoes on the surface of the Earth, and they're

0:42:050:42:08

all worth exploring. However, there are only a few that actually still

0:42:080:42:13

have the magma chamber available to explore.

0:42:130:42:17

It makes it a fantastic place to study the inside of a volcano.

0:42:180:42:22

But getting down there won't be easy.

0:42:230:42:26

Brent is going in first.

0:42:360:42:38

-Careful where you put your feet, because it's slightly undercut.

-OK.

0:42:440:42:47

Oh, good grief.

0:42:490:42:51

And then it's my turn.

0:42:540:42:55

If you duck down just a bit.

0:42:570:42:59

Just don't look down, don't look down.

0:43:020:43:04

God, I just looked down.

0:43:070:43:10

Keep doing what you're doing, just feeding it through slow and steady.

0:43:160:43:19

-Just trust the equipment.

-OK.

0:43:190:43:21

I don't think I've ever felt

0:43:390:43:41

quite so small and insignificant as right now.

0:43:410:43:46

Just incredible.

0:43:520:43:54

I'm 100 metres, 30 storeys, below ground.

0:44:140:44:18

And in lava caves like this, you're never alone.

0:44:210:44:24

Brent goes straight to work.

0:44:480:44:50

So tell me about this Lidar, then?

0:44:520:44:54

It's a near-infrared laser,

0:44:540:44:56

and it will spin 360 and it will get millimetre precision and accuracy of

0:44:560:45:02

all the layers of rock that we see here

0:45:020:45:04

from the floor to the ceiling.

0:45:040:45:06

The Lidar scanner fires laser beams in all directions.

0:45:110:45:15

It's the first time this technology has been used in Galapagos.

0:45:160:45:20

What are you hoping your Lidar is going to reveal about this chamber?

0:45:230:45:28

So it's very rare that we actually get to go below the volcano.

0:45:280:45:31

We'll have places that are constantly erupting but we won't

0:45:310:45:35

have a good idea of what the magma chambers are like below it and

0:45:350:45:38

where are those conduits

0:45:380:45:40

that are constantly feeding different eruptions.

0:45:400:45:42

So being able to come in, that'll give us a new understanding of

0:45:420:45:45

what's going on here in the Galapagos.

0:45:450:45:47

There are many different types of volcanic eruptions.

0:45:550:45:58

But this 3D map reveals exactly what happened here.

0:45:590:46:03

The rough texture of the walls

0:46:060:46:08

indicates that explosive blasts of magma were thrown upwards.

0:46:080:46:11

These mounds at the surface were created by a fire fountain,

0:46:150:46:19

hurling molten rock high into the air

0:46:210:46:24

before falling to the ground.

0:46:240:46:26

Instead of a gentle eruption with slowly flowing lava,

0:46:280:46:32

this is evidence that a more violent eruption occurred.

0:46:320:46:35

We can also calculate the volume of magma that filled the chamber.

0:46:370:46:42

This tells us the eruption most likely happened in just a few

0:46:420:46:45

explosive hours.

0:46:450:46:48

I have to say it feels pretty special to sit here, imagining

0:46:480:46:51

that once lava used to rush through here,

0:46:510:46:53

at what sort of temperatures?

0:46:530:46:55

Those temperatures are between 1,100 and 1,200 degrees C.

0:46:550:46:58

-Right, so this is quite unique?

-It is, it is very unique.

0:46:580:47:01

You've got a big smile on your face. This is exactly your cup of tea.

0:47:010:47:04

Yeah, this is...yeah, this is my Disney World, yeah.

0:47:040:47:08

This new 3D map confirms what once happened inside this chamber,

0:47:090:47:16

providing a blueprint for eruptions here and revealing clues about how

0:47:160:47:21

Sierra Negra is likely to explode again,

0:47:210:47:24

and how its wildlife might be threatened.

0:47:240:47:27

Our scientific expedition around Galapagos is almost at an end.

0:47:430:47:47

But we have one final mission to carry out...

0:47:500:47:53

..to look for volcanic activity below the waves.

0:47:550:47:58

Evidence that a brand-new Galapagos Island is being born.

0:47:590:48:03

Our destination is a small rocky outcrop,

0:48:080:48:12

Roca Redonda.

0:48:120:48:14

Mission geologist Karen Harpp

0:48:250:48:28

is fascinated about what lies beneath it.

0:48:280:48:30

She's interested in features called fumaroles,

0:48:340:48:38

telltale signs that this volcano is still active.

0:48:380:48:43

So you can basically think of a fumarole as a vent

0:48:430:48:46

for hot gases and fluids,

0:48:460:48:49

and they're a really good sign that the volcano is still

0:48:490:48:53

potentially active at any time.

0:48:530:48:56

Finding evidence of these sea vents will prove that Roca Redonda could

0:48:560:49:01

one day erupt,

0:49:010:49:03

and over millions of years become a true Galapagos Island of its own.

0:49:030:49:07

In Alucia's mission control, we've been scanning

0:49:130:49:17

the seabed to create 3D maps.

0:49:170:49:19

Scans like these allow us to observe every detail of where we're heading.

0:49:200:49:25

So there it is, Roca Redonda.

0:49:280:49:31

So, really, the exposed bit we can see is a tiny fraction of the top.

0:49:310:49:35

There's just this little bit there on the top

0:49:350:49:38

that sticks out and clears the water.

0:49:380:49:41

The tiny island above the surface is just the tip of the iceberg.

0:49:410:49:45

The scans reveal that, underwater, it's a huge volcano,

0:49:450:49:50

3km tall and almost 20km wide.

0:49:500:49:53

But is it still active?

0:49:530:49:56

Steve, what's the plan? How deep will we go?

0:49:560:50:00

Our maximum depth we're going to be diving is going to be

0:50:000:50:03

-between about 18 and 25 metres.

-OK.

0:50:030:50:05

We should get a nice long dive and be able to explore everything.

0:50:050:50:09

I'm keen to see if this is the beginning of a new island.

0:50:100:50:14

But it's going to be one of the most challenging dives of the expedition.

0:50:160:50:19

So, Liz, deep ocean currents sweeping up the

0:50:230:50:27

Galapagos archipelago, and they're crashing into the underwater

0:50:270:50:31

topography under this rock. The current is strong.

0:50:310:50:34

OK, I'm just excited to watch what scientists call still an active

0:50:340:50:39

volcano, what that looks like underwater.

0:50:390:50:41

The dive team has carried out over 10,000 dives between them.

0:50:450:50:50

But they never take the power of the ocean for granted.

0:50:500:50:56

Bubbi is going to be beside me every step of the way.

0:50:560:50:59

We're going to jump in at the same time,

0:50:590:51:01

I'll catch you right in the water.

0:51:010:51:05

As soon as we're in the water, it's straight to the bottom.

0:51:050:51:07

It's going to be good.

0:51:070:51:10

-Whoa!

-Yep, you can go ahead and spin it.

-Look at that!

0:51:110:51:13

OK, I'm going in.

0:51:230:51:26

Ready?

0:51:260:51:27

We quickly descend to the seabed to avoid the strongest

0:51:400:51:44

of the currents that could sweep us out into the Pacific.

0:51:440:51:47

And I'm greeted by the most extraordinary sight.

0:51:510:51:54

This volcano is well and truly active.

0:52:090:52:12

The bubbles are proof that gases are being released

0:52:150:52:18

from deep beneath this young volcano.

0:52:180:52:20

Full of carbon dioxide,

0:52:290:52:31

these vents make the water next to them warmer

0:52:310:52:34

and ten times more acidic.

0:52:340:52:36

But despite these hostile conditions, life is thriving.

0:52:400:52:44

These bacteria, algae and sponges

0:52:470:52:50

have evolved to survive on the vents,

0:52:500:52:53

and many of them might well be new, as yet unnamed species.

0:52:530:52:57

As the strong cold currents bring with them vital nutrients,

0:53:020:53:05

marine life abounds here.

0:53:050:53:07

One day, Roca Redonda may erupt once more...

0:53:160:53:20

..growing into another spectacular Galapagos island.

0:53:250:53:29

Its underwater wonderland could transform into a haven

0:53:340:53:39

for an incredible diversity of other species.

0:53:390:53:42

It's so beautiful down there! It's so beautiful!

0:53:520:53:54

It's just...

0:53:560:53:58

There's nothing like it in the universe.

0:53:580:54:01

Oh, God, it was epic.

0:54:010:54:03

Oh, that was an amazing dive.

0:54:030:54:05

Those bubbles, bubbles everywhere.

0:54:050:54:09

Coming up from all the rocks, all over the place.

0:54:090:54:11

You know, I've always wanted to come here all my life,

0:54:160:54:19

to see not only the wildlife but the volcanoes that make the Galapagos

0:54:190:54:24

what they are, but I never thought for a minute that I'd get to see the

0:54:240:54:28

process of island formation from beneath the waves.

0:54:280:54:31

That was quite something.

0:54:310:54:33

Our mission in Galapagos set out to help transform our understanding of

0:54:380:54:43

this unique and extraordinary island chain...

0:54:430:54:46

..200 years after Charles Darwin first came here.

0:54:500:54:54

And it's been an incredible journey.

0:54:550:54:57

Bringing 20 world-leading scientists into this living laboratory.

0:55:000:55:06

-How does that feel?

-It feels great.

0:55:060:55:08

We've been wanting to do this for a couple of years,

0:55:080:55:10

and we've been dreaming about it.

0:55:100:55:14

And using ground-breaking technology to carry out research never

0:55:140:55:19

attempted on this scale before, our team have made new discoveries here.

0:55:190:55:25

It's hoped they will help to protect

0:55:250:55:27

this wildlife paradise for the future.

0:55:270:55:30

Mark this waypoint, transducer deployment site. Over.

0:55:300:55:36

Being able to deploy listening stations,

0:55:360:55:38

it allows us to keep our finger on the pulse.

0:55:380:55:40

'Finding new species in its ocean...

0:55:420:55:45

Can we get Tommy to grab that one?

0:55:450:55:47

This just changes everything. Everything.

0:55:470:55:51

'..and animals on the edge of extinction.'

0:55:510:55:54

To set eyes on a pink iguana is an honour, actually.

0:55:540:55:59

There will be chances for this species to survive.

0:55:590:56:01

But there's still so much more to learn.

0:56:050:56:10

They're so beautiful, they really are.

0:56:100:56:13

Our scientists have laid the groundwork for research projects

0:56:130:56:18

that will continue for decades to come.

0:56:180:56:20

These Galapagos Islands are exceptional, in so many ways.

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I've truly felt part of nature here, not separate from it,

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not a spectator.

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And it's been an awe-inspiring and humbling experience.

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This place offers up a glimpse of what the natural world can look like

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when it's at its best. And it still has so much to teach us,

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not only with respect to the natural wonders that lie waiting to be

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discovered and understood,

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but it can also teach us how to get things right,

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how to protect wildlife for generations to come,

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not only here but the world over.

0:57:150:57:17

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