Mountains - Life in Thin Air Human Planet


Mountains - Life in Thin Air

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Only one creature has carved a life for itself

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in every habitat on Earth.

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That creature is us.

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All over the world we still use our ingenuity to survive in the wild places,

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far from the city lights, face to face with raw nature.

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This is the Human Planet.

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Mountains are among the most brutal environments on Earth.

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Weather here can shift from tropical to arctic in just hours.

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And the higher you climb, the tougher it gets...

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...until even oxygen is stripped away.

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But millions of people live in the mountains...

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...either seeking refuge from conflict

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or exploiting resources found nowhere else.

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And to survive they have had to adapt

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in the most surprising and ingenious ways.

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These are their stories.

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DRAMATIC MUSIC

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MEWING WHOOP

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GELADA BARKS

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SQUEALS

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WIND HOWLS AND GUSTS

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The Altai mountains in Mongolia are among the most remote on Earth.

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And for the people who live in this barren landscape,

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hunting is nearly impossible.

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Unless you have help.

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Sailau Jadik and his son Berik are Kazakhs.

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And today they're in search of the ultimate hunting partner.

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A golden eagle.

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TRANSLATED FROM KAZAKH

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These young birds are almost ready to leave the nest.

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If 16-year-old Berik can collect one, he will take his first step

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towards becoming a Kazakh hunter like his father.

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CHICKS CHEEP

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It's a big first step.

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EAGLE CHICKS CHEEP

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Ever since the Kazakhs fled into these mountains nearly 200 years ago,

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they have been stealing baby eagles.

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Eagles have eyes many times more powerful than a human's

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and can spot prey two kilometres away.

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If Berik can teach this eagle to hunt for him,

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he will join the few hundred Kazakhs left who can still do this.

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Berik calls his new eagle Balapan.

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If he gets it right, Balapan will become his hunting partner.

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But training her will take five months.

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It's five months later, and time for Berik and a fully grown Balapan

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to go on their first hunt together.

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They're after a Mongolian fox,

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an animal so elusive, only an eagle stands a chance of catching it.

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But for Balapan to catch the fox, Berik first has to take her to high ground.

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Here she'll have the perfect vantage point to spot the slightest movement.

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BALAPAN CALLS

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Berik now hopes that Balapan's hunting instinct will take over.

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SAILAU SHOUTS

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WHOOPING

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MEWING WHOOP

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FOX GROWLS

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Balapan has failed.

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For Berik, this is worrying.

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Does she have the killer instinct?

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Traditionally, Kazakh hunters pair up with their eagles for seven years

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before setting them free,

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but Berik now has his doubts.

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BALAPAN CALLS

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As day breaks, father and son return to the mountains.

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If Balapan can't catch a fox,

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Berik may have to let her go and find another eagle to train.

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SHOUTING

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MEWING WHOOP

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Balapan has caught the fox, just as she was trained to.

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She's now locked in a fight to the death.

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HORSE WHINNIES

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Sailau kills the fox as quickly as he can.

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According to Kazakh tradition, Balapan gets the fox's lungs.

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The fox's thick coat will be used for winter clothing.

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Berik has proved himself to be a successful Kazakh hunter.

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As long as they have lived in the Altai Mountains,

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Kazakhs have relied on eagles.

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However, not all mountain people get help from wild animals.

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On the edge of Africa's Great Rift Valley,

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geological upheaval has created Ethiopia's Simien mountains.

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Here, giant cliffs form a natural fortress

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where for centuries people have sought refuge from conflicts below.

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Getabit village is one of a hundred perched in a landscape so vertical

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that the residents can only grow their crops on tiny strips of land

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along the edges of cliffs.

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VILLAGERS SING

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But 700-foot precipices are the least of their worries.

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Today their annual harvest is under way,

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and their grain is under attack from a ravenous enemy.

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SHRIEKING

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These are gelada monkeys and they love stealing the farmers' grain.

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Troops of up to 600 prowl the cliffs surrounding Getabit village,

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led by males with fangs larger than a lion's.

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They are cunning thieves.

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To defend their crops against the monkeys,

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the cliff farmers depend on their children,

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such as 12-year-old Dereje.

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DEREJE WHOOPS

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Because the area is next to a national park, the gelada are protected.

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As night approaches, the geladas stop raiding.

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But Dereje's crops are ripe for harvest, and he knows that tomorrow

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the monkeys will attack even more aggressively than before.

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So, with his two sisters and brother, he camps by his fields.

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At night, temperatures plummet below freezing.

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While the thick-furred geladas have adapted to the cold,

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the humans must huddle together for warmth.

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At dawn, the geladas attack.

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GELADAS WHOOP

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DEREJE SHOUTS

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The first strike comes from a few large males,

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who target Dereje's haystacks.

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He drives them off,

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but the geladas are cunning - these males were only a decoy.

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Out of sight at the other end of Dereje's fields,

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the main army launches the real attack.

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A big troop like this can strip a field in minutes.

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MAN CONTINUES TO SHOUT WARNING

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DEREJE SHOUTS

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If Dereje doesn't hurry,

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the food his family needs to get through the winter will be gone.

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GELADAS SHRIEK

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GELADAS SHRIEK AND BARK

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Dereje's done it. He's seen off the gelada.

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Finally, his crops are harvested.

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THEY SING

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Dereje lives in the Simiens

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because his ancestors sought refuge here centuries ago.

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But in some parts of the world, people settle in mountains

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because this environment has something they desperately want.

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LOW RUMBLING EXPLOSIONS

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Mountains are born when continental plates collide.

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This massive upheaval often exposes a wealth of valuable minerals.

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Nowhere more so than here in Indonesia,

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home to more active volcanic mountains than any nation on Earth.

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Here, people risk their lives

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for a mineral vital to several important industries.

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Sulphur.

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Hartomo and Sulaiman are sulphur miners.

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Today, they're going where few others dare.

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Into the heart of an active volcano.

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This is Ijen crater, one of the most poisonous places on Earth.

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At its centre, a lake filled with

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two-and-a-half million tonnes of acid.

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And out of the depths of the mountain pour toxic gases

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that have claimed the lives of 74 miners in the past 40 years.

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The hydrogen sulphide that these men must breathe in

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is 40 times the safe level.

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Over time, it destroys their lungs.

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THEY COUGH

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Once they have enough sulphur,

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Hartomo and Sulaiman have to carry it

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200 metres straight up to the crater rim.

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Each man hefts 90 kilos,

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nearly one-and-a-half times their own body weight.

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This work exacts a heavy price on the miners' bodies.

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Sulaiman and Hartomo are paid five dollars per load.

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The lives of miners have always been hard.

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But it's not just miners who have it tough.

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For some mountain dwellers, just finding food can be a challenge.

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In the South Pacific lies the world's second largest island, New Guinea.

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This is one of the most biologically rich mountain landscapes on Earth.

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With plenty of water, and thousands of protected valleys,

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these mountains brim with life.

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Yet hunting for food, particularly meat, is surprisingly difficult.

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Marcus, Andrew and George are hunters

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from the Yangoru Boiken tribe.

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They and their families haven't eaten any fresh meat for two weeks.

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But today they plan to solve the problem.

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They hope to trap giant fruit bats.

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But to catch a giant bat requires a giant bat trap.

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So these men are doing something radical.

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They're changing the shape of the landscape itself.

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Along this ridge, the men create a 70-foot wide doorway.

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A shortcut through the mountains to the fruit trees beyond

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and a perfect place to ambush the bats.

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Like spiders, the men spin a gigantic web.

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In the dark, this 130-foot high net cannot be detected by the bats.

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Only two things now remain.

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Add the bat alert signal...

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BATS CHIRP AND SQUEAK

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...and pray the bats fly into their trap.

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MEN CHATTER QUIETLY IN LOCAL DIALECT

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Catching bats requires patience.

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In the past, Marcus has spent weeks on the mountain

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and come home empty-handed.

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But if he does manage to catch even a few, the effort will be worthwhile.

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BAT SQUEALS

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It's a good start, but with all the mouths to feed at home,

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they're going to need more than one bat.

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As the hours roll on, their trap continues to catch bats.

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In the course of the night, the men catch a total of 15 bats.

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They cook two now and save the rest.

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Their haul will provide their families

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with enough protein for two weeks.

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Every part of the bat is edible, down to the leather on the wings.

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For Andrew, Marcus and George,

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knowing every inch of their mountain habitat

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enables them to feed their families.

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But in colder climes, knowing every inch of your mountain

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can mean the difference between life and death.

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In the Swiss Alps, ten metres of snow can fall in a year.

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And for millions of skiers, this is a brilliant reason to come here.

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But heavy snowfalls can also pose a deadly threat.

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Avalanches.

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ROARING RUMBLE

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Travelling faster than a bullet train,

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a major avalanche annihilates everything in its path.

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In any given winter,

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there can be 30,000 avalanches in the Swiss Alps alone.

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Ski patrolman Martin Mathys is an avalanche spotter.

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And today he has a big problem.

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In his hometown of Grindelwald, there has been a massive snowfall.

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The risk of avalanche is now extreme.

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Towering 1,000 metres above Grindelwald

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is the notorious Black Horn ridge.

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Packed with snow, it's a disaster waiting to happen.

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So Martin must set off a controlled avalanche now

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before any more snow falls.

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To set off a controlled avalanche, you need dynamite, plenty of it.

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Martin is taking 50 kilos, enough to blow up several city blocks.

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Martin reaches the summit of the Black Horn ridge, and sets a charge.

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EXPLOSION

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He triggers a mini avalanche, shifting over ten tonnes of snow.

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But it's not enough. He needs to go again.

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EXPLOSION

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LOW RUMBLING

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This time, Martin succeeds.

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This is the avalanche he needs to make the mountain safe.

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High in the Alps, mountain people have learnt

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to control the threat of avalanches with modern technology.

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But there are mountains where the forces of nature cannot be tamed.

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The Himalaya is the highest mountain range on Earth.

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The world's tallest hundred mountains are all here.

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And within these peaks live 70 million people,

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many at altitudes that pose a threat to the human body.

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In the Doramba region of Nepal, the residents face an insidious threat.

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Dangerously high levels of harmful UV rays pierce the thin mountain air

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and burn people's eyes.

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And here in the village of Balau,

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65-year-old Teteeni has paid a heavy price.

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She's blind.

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Teteeni is determined not to let blindness interfere with her life,

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but simple tasks, such as fetching water, now take longer

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and can be treacherous.

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Her blindness is caused by cataracts,

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a fogging of her lenses exacerbated by the intense mountain sun.

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But isolated here in the Himalaya,

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Teteeni has no access to medical treatment.

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Fortunately, an answer to her prayers may be just around the corner.

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From Kathmandu,

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Dr Sanduk Ruit has pioneered a method of eye surgery

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that he brings to the remote corners of the Himalaya.

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His mobile clinic brings hope to thousands.

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And today, Teteeni is setting off to join them.

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She has arranged for the only transportation

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available to her in these mountains.

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A friend has offered to carry her

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ten kilometres to the Doramba clinic.

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While Dr Ruit's success rate is high, there is still a strong chance

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that Teteeni's eyes are too far gone to be saved.

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He makes no promises.

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Doramba's schoolhouse is now an improvised operating theatre.

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It takes Dr Ruit just half an hour to remove Teteeni's fogged lenses.

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He then replaces them

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with a synthetic lens he manufactures himself.

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In the West, this operation could cost 8,000.

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But, funded by charity, Dr Ruit doesn't charge his patients a single rupee.

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With surgery now complete, Teteeni can only wait.

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Just 24 hours after her operation, Teteeni joins hundreds of patients

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waiting to have their bandages removed, hopefully with her sight restored.

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For Teteeni, this is the moment of truth.

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THEY SING

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For the first time in three years, Teteeni can see.

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In the Himalayan foothills,

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modern medicine is helping prolong

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the lives of the people who live here.

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But, as you climb higher in these mountains,

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it's how to deal with death that poses a problem.

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At over 4,000 metres,

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Dho Tarap is one of the highest communities on Earth.

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BELLS TOLL

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Buddhists live here in almost complete isolation.

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And when someone dies at this altitude,

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dealing with the corpse is a real challenge.

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Last night, there was a death in the village.

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70-year-old Nombe-la passed away,

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and now his family are preparing his body for a Buddhist funeral.

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The man in charge of this funeral is Holy Lama Namgyal.

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Lama Namgyal needs to hold the funeral soon

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because Nombe-la's corpse could attract predators and spread disease.

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But when you live at the roof of the world, your options are limited.

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Buddhists don't bury their dead.

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And at this altitude no trees grow, so there is no wood for a cremation.

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The solution is a sacred ritual older than Buddhism itself.

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A sky burial.

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To conduct the sky burial ritual,

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Lama Namgyal needs the help of a specialist.

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BHARMAY FURBA INTONES

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Bharmay Furba is the undertaker.

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As a non-Buddhist, he is the only one

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who is allowed to carry out this most difficult task.

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THEY CHANT, BELLS RING

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RHYTHMIC PERCUSSIVE BEATS

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The funeral procession heads an hour-and-a-half up into the mountains

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to a sacred ledge where sky burials have been performed

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for over 1,000 years.

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Here, they will rendezvous

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with the most efficient scavengers in these mountains.

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Vultures.

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For millennia,

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Buddhists in these mountains have relied on the griffon vulture

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and the lammergeier to help them dispose of their dead.

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These birds swiftly consume a corpse before it can spread disease.

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Buddhists see this as a sacred act,

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an offering that will sustain the life of another being.

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For them, Nombe-la's corpse is now an empty vessel.

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His soul has already migrated to another realm.

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Nombe-la's sons pay their final respects to their father.

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But they don't wish to be present for what is about to take place.

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Because for the vultures to consume Nombe-la's corpse quickly,

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Bharmay must make it easier for them.

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RHYTHMIC BEATS AND BELLS RING

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HORN PLAYS

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Nombe-la's corpse is now gone and cannot spread disease.

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To survive in the mountains, you have to understand them.

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Mountain habitats can be brutal

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but if you use your ingenuity, determination,

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resourcefulness and courage

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it is possible to make a life here at the roof of the world.

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When the Human Planet mountains team filmed the Mongolian eagle hunters,

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their search for a fox was like finding a needle in a haystack.

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Keeping up with the hunters also proved near impossible

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in the vast Mongolian landscape.

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The team are here to film Sailau and his son Berik

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hunting with their eagle, Balapan.

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Cameraman Keith Partridge last met Berik in June with his newborn chick.

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It's now November and bitterly cold - an ideal time for hunting,

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when wolves, foxes and rabbits all have thick winter coats.

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Unlike the wildlife,

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the old Russian trucks are not well adapted to the cold

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so the drivers devise a novel solution.

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Keith opts for a different ride.

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The fact is

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that I haven't even ridden a donkey across Blackpool beach.

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And we've now got to go up there

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on one of these.

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Does my horse have a name?

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They don't have names?

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The Mongolians have more than 300 words

0:50:270:50:30

just to describe the horse colours.

0:50:300:50:33

Wow!

0:50:330:50:34

You know that to make it go, you slightly kick and you should say,

0:50:340:50:39

-"Shu!"

-OK, shall we follow Agii?

0:50:390:50:41

Thank you.

0:50:410:50:43

That's it. Shu!

0:50:430:50:45

Shu!

0:50:450:50:47

Shu!

0:50:480:50:50

Eventually, Keith finds the gears and off he goes.

0:50:500:50:54

After three hours, the trucks catch up,

0:50:570:51:00

and Keith's only too happy to leave his horse behind.

0:51:000:51:03

BALAPAN CHEEPS

0:51:030:51:04

What does he think?

0:51:060:51:07

-Except my nose?

-HE CHUCKLES

0:51:150:51:17

Is it too big?

0:51:170:51:19

There you go, no frostbite!

0:51:240:51:27

Keith heads off to test a small "eagle-cam",

0:51:300:51:33

for which Sailau has made a harness.

0:51:330:51:37

There are cameras that might give us a better picture quality

0:51:380:51:42

but they're much bigger

0:51:420:51:43

so we're playing this trade-off game all the time

0:51:430:51:47

between practicalities and quality.

0:51:470:51:49

Anyway, we'll see how it goes.

0:51:490:51:51

Sailau's eagle seems

0:51:550:51:57

to fly quite happily with the eagle-cam on her back.

0:51:570:52:00

Encouraged by the first test, they use a heavier high-definition camera.

0:52:000:52:05

This will be amazing if this works.

0:52:070:52:09

We don't even know if the bird will take the weight.

0:52:090:52:12

We might have overloaded the plane, so to speak.

0:52:120:52:15

The eagle flies beautifully. Keith and the team head back to base,

0:52:210:52:25

joining director Nic Brown to view the results.

0:52:250:52:29

It's a very tense moment.

0:52:290:52:30

The locals join in for a bird's-eye view.

0:52:300:52:34

They've never seen their eagles quite like this before.

0:52:340:52:38

-The hood's off!

-Hood's off.

0:52:380:52:39

Off we go. Whoa!

0:52:390:52:42

-How small, my God. Really wild!

-Look at his head!

0:52:420:52:46

Wow, look at that banking round with the head.

0:52:510:52:53

Wow! That's pretty wicked, isn't it?

0:52:530:52:58

The next day,

0:53:000:53:01

the crew follow Berik and his young eagle on their first fox hunt.

0:53:010:53:06

The hunters shadow sweepers -

0:53:060:53:08

men who flush the foxes out into the open.

0:53:080:53:12

The team must constantly move from peak to peak

0:53:130:53:16

to give the eagles the best chance of seeing a fox.

0:53:160:53:19

Sailau thinks that the fox might be hiding

0:53:190:53:22

over these small mounds just behind these telegraph lines.

0:53:220:53:26

He would like to go to one of those hills and wait there.

0:53:260:53:30

It seems to make sense that we've got to head there.

0:53:300:53:33

Well, you'd better be fast, mate, cos he's just gone.

0:53:330:53:35

There he goes.

0:53:350:53:36

LAUGHING

0:53:360:53:38

After packing up quickly, the film crew race after the hunters.

0:53:390:53:44

But as soon as Keith starts filming, the plans seem to change yet again.

0:53:450:53:50

Sailau's now moved off again so, er, time to go.

0:53:510:53:54

We've only been here for two minutes.

0:53:540:53:56

This set the pattern of the day.

0:53:580:54:00

As Sailau and Berik move from peak to peak,

0:54:000:54:04

so do the team, constantly playing catch-up in the thin, high-altitude air.

0:54:040:54:10

Finally, near exhaustion, they face a new problem.

0:54:100:54:14

Where is Sailau?

0:54:160:54:18

They call the director.

0:54:190:54:21

Nic, Nic. This is Keith, do you read? Over.

0:54:210:54:24

'Hi, yeah, how are you?'

0:54:240:54:26

We're on our third mountain range of the day so far and still no luck.

0:54:260:54:31

'Which mountain range are you on now? Over.'

0:54:310:54:34

If only we knew!

0:54:360:54:38

Behind us are the really big peaks with no snow on.

0:54:380:54:41

The terrain here is pretty wild, actually,

0:54:410:54:43

and if anything's going to be lurking about,

0:54:430:54:46

I think I'd want to hide around here somewhere.

0:54:460:54:49

Something's in front of that telegraph pole. Is that a dog?

0:54:490:54:52

Let's get the lens on it.

0:54:520:54:53

It's not a wolf, it's a cow!

0:54:590:55:00

I never said it was a wolf, I said it was moving.

0:55:000:55:03

That is very true!

0:55:030:55:04

Do I get the sense that delirium

0:55:040:55:07

is beginning to set in on the third mountain range of the day?

0:55:070:55:11

Would you like some chocolate bars?

0:55:110:55:13

Agii, every day, just at the point where we are about to faint...

0:55:130:55:19

You bust your teeth on them!

0:55:210:55:24

I could ask you, Agii, if you could keep them somewhere slightly warmer!

0:55:240:55:28

They set off yet again.

0:55:340:55:36

Keith and the team are beginning to wonder if they'll ever film a hunt.

0:55:360:55:41

But then, good news.

0:55:410:55:43

We have seen a fox.

0:55:430:55:45

It scarpered really fast down that snowy slope.

0:55:460:55:49

The guys are over there at the moment,

0:55:490:55:51

trying to see where it's hunkered down.

0:55:510:55:53

Once they're out on the snow,

0:55:530:55:55

you can see them pretty easily cos it's a little black dot, scarpering like hell.

0:55:550:55:58

But, um, apart from that, you see this place.

0:55:580:56:02

It's utterly vast. It's like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

0:56:020:56:06

Suddenly, there's a call from the valley and the hunt is on.

0:56:060:56:10

Everybody clear the front of frame, please.

0:56:120:56:14

Now!

0:56:140:56:15

BERIK MAKES MEWING WHOOPS

0:56:160:56:20

I think the fox has made a hasty escape.

0:56:330:56:36

Both Balapan and the crew have learned a lot on their first hunt.

0:56:380:56:42

Still...the team have yet to film a successful hunt.

0:56:440:56:48

After several frustrating days, the pressure to deliver is intense.

0:56:480:56:53

We're fast running out of time, it hasn't been looking very good.

0:56:550:57:00

Just when the crew are resigned to failure, a call is heard.

0:57:000:57:04

Keith knows this is his and Balapan's big chance to succeed.

0:57:070:57:13

MEWING WHOOP

0:57:150:57:16

The bird got it! My word.

0:57:410:57:43

When all those whoops go off,

0:57:450:57:47

things just go from nought to a million miles an hour in two or three seconds.

0:57:470:57:52

Your heart races when you are doing this sort of stuff,

0:57:520:57:56

and you just have to respond in a kind of a positive way.

0:57:560:57:58

You know, just try and stay totally focused on what you are here to do.

0:57:580:58:02

When that adrenaline kicks in, it's easy to get distracted,

0:58:020:58:05

but you have to just think,

0:58:050:58:07

"Right, now is the time I've got to up my game,

0:58:070:58:09

"knuckle down and focus on getting the shot and making it work."

0:58:090:58:14

And also trying to build some form of relationship

0:58:140:58:17

with the people that you are working with as well.

0:58:170:58:19

So that they trust us

0:58:190:58:20

and welcome us into what's quite an intimate part of their lives.

0:58:200:58:25

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:510:58:52

E-mail [email protected]

0:58:520:58:55

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