Episode 4 Kate Humble: Off the Beaten Track

You might think that this is a Canadian forest.

The African savanna.

The Scottish mountains.

But this is my adopted home, Wales,

and the many countries within it.

I've always been drawn to remote places around the world,

but only recently I started questioning myself.

Why am I travelling to these far-flung parts of the world

to look for authentic, intact communities,

when there are communities like that right on my doorstep?

Wales is home to less than 5% of the UK population,

with most people concentrated in the south.

And the sparsely-inhabited countryside

is exactly what attracted me to move here ten years ago.

So I'm now travelling the lesser-trodden areas of Wales

with my best Welsh friend Teg,

to discover how its landscapes are being shaped

and how they are shaping its people.

Last time, I learned how to flog sheep.

Can't we have a little bit more? You've got two ladies in the ring.

I got hooked on fly-fishing.

Gosh, you really did have so little faith in me.

THEY LAUGH

And Teg had her first family reunion.

This is, like, my happiest moment is standing here, watching her work.

-Proud granny! Proud granny!

-I am, I am.

This is Wales: Off The Beaten Track.

Of course, I may only be accepted in these communities

because I've got the right nationality of dog.

During our final week travelling through Wales,

we explore Carmarthenshire,

starting in the remote Cothi Valley,

where I'm surprised to find a dairy and meat farm

with a 100-strong herd of goats.

In Wales, these animals are a particular challenge to keep in large numbers,

mainly because of their aversion to wet weather.

Yet, for Lynn Beard, these curious creatures are worth the effort.

Hello, girls! Hello!

-It's actually quite a beautiful and sunny day today.

-Yeah.

Why aren't they scampering about your beautiful fields?

-It's too wet under their hooves.

-Is it?

Not only do they not like wet on their backs, goats...

-Yeah.

-..they hate getting their hooves wet.

See, I thought that might be just my goats being slightly prissy.

No. Their coats aren't waterproof like cows. They don't turn the rain.

So they chill very, very easily.

-And they just hate it.

-Right.

-Ears go down, hooves are up and down.

-Yeah.

-No.

Lynn moved from Kent to Wales 14 years ago,

looking for a quieter life for her family and her kids.

Don't tell me you name every single one of your goats?

-Every goat is named.

-Really?

Every goat. This is Robin. That there is the dreadful Wiggle.

KATE LAUGHS My goodness!

And that's Lydia.

How long have you been keeping goats?

It's a slightly left-of-field idea even now, isn't it?

It is. I started 41 years ago.

Oh, my goodness, you must have been two!

I was. You hit it right on the head. Exactly!

-Exactly. Right on the nail. I was very, very young.

-Yeah.

I'd always loved goats. I don't know why.

They are just... To me, they're just wonderful.

These girls are like high-maintenance princesses.

Not only do they hate getting their feet dirty,

but you have to make their beds for them every day.

Though that's mainly because they have a ferocious appetite for it.

Goats will not milk on grass alone.

They will go out there, they will skip from here to there,

have a mouthful here and a mouthful there.

-They will still come in at night and want their hay.

-Yeah.

So they're not for the faint-hearted.

They're Marmitey, is what I call them. They're Marmitey.

You love them or you loathe them.

The girls are milked twice a day,

and Teg is keen to work her magic, bringing them into the parlour.

Hello, Teg! Hello, sweetie pie!

Teg, shall we go around the back?

Are you coming down, then, girlies?

Go back. Go on. Teg, Teg. Good girl!

Good girl! What do you think, Lynn?

Well done, Teg!

Blimey! Aren't you good?

Lynn normally does the milking single-handedly,

but today I'm going to attempt to help.

Come on!

You have to help me out here a little bit

because I haven't done this before.

Just as I get to grips with the pumps, I come across another problem.

So there's a sitting-down protest going on here.

-Is that normal?

-No.

KATE LAUGHS

That's what happens when you've got a beginner in your milking parlour.

That is hilarious!

-Oh, well!

-A sitting protest.

I'm sorry, darling!

Lynn gets on average 200 litres of goat's milk a day.

And to add value to her produce, all of it goes into the making of mouthwatering goods

she sells at farmers' markets.

-They just came out this morning.

-Oh, my goodness!

-Did you have any training for this?

-No.

Are these goaty in any way?

They are all goat butter.

All her recipes are goat-based.

But in order to try any,

I've got to get stuck in.

While I have fun helping her make her goat-meat Scotch eggs...

-How's that?

-That's not too bad. Not bad at all.

..it's her legendary goat's cheese and leek vegetarian version

that I'm craving.

Right, Lynn, moment of truth.

It's the moment of truth, Kate.

Oh, my goodness!

-Good?

-Unbelievably good.

If you get to the point where you say,

"I want to retire," you're not allowed to.

-OK, then.

-Those are... They're amazing!

By using the milk and meat she produces on the farm

to make goods to sell direct,

Lynn has found a way to make a living from the animals she loves.

But it's a full-time, seven-day-a-week job.

Thankfully, though, country life isn't always about work.

Nearly 30 miles west, I discover a sport

that has been keeping people entertained for over 100 years,

and is particularly popular in this part of Wales.

The unusual form of horse racing known as trotting

is a life passion for builder, horse trainer and racer Mathew Tromans.

One he's already passed on to his 14-year-old daughter Ellie,

who's now a Wales and Borders champion.

The sport has being growing in Wales since the late 19th century.

And today, I'm joining in the fun with the whole family.

-Mathew.

-Yes, that's correct. This is Wendy, my wife.

-Hello, Wendy.

-And Ellie, my daughter.

-Hi, Ellie. Lovely to meet you all.

And who is this splendid beast?

This is Habberley Playboy, his racing name,

but we call him Jack back on the yard here.

I'm sort of looking at him and I don't know what sort of horse he is.

They're a breed on their own, really, they're a standard bred,

-a pacing horse...

-Right.

-You get a lot of them in America...

-Yeah?

-..and Australia

and over here in the UK.

-So, they're bred specifically for this sport?

-Yes, yes.

OK. Now, I have to confess,

I know absolutely nothing about this sport at all.

I mean, I just think of it as, basically,

people re-enacting Ben-Hur.

It does get a bit like that on the racetrack sometimes.

But basically, they've got a different action to your general horse.

-Right.

-These are called the pacers.

-Yeah.

One side moves unilateral to the other.

So effectively, you've got... If I was on all fours,

you've got that side moving together...

-Yeah, that's correct.

-..rather than opposites, like that.

-Yeah. Yes.

-Wow! OK.

But instead of riding a horse, trotting is about driving it

from a cart called a sulky.

-Could I just sit on it...

-Yeah, yeah.

-..just to see how it feels?

Is there a way of getting on, or do you just...?

Yeah, well, if I get on. Just hold his head, Els,

-and just swing your legs over.

-OK.

-And then you...

-Oh, you put your legs up there?

-Yeah.

-Very vulnerable.

-I was going to say.

Yeah, it is a little bit vulnerable.

Hang on.

That's it.

That's terrifying.

I'm terrified just sitting here because it feels like you just...

-You're going to fall...

-You're going to fall backwards, or...

When you've got the reins in your hands as well,

-it gives you more balance, as well.

-Right.

-Because the horse will be pulling on you, as well.

-I suppose so.

The majority of them will, anyway.

Oh! Right, then, Jack, I'm going to

leave you to the experts, I think.

We follow Mathew to the training ground so I can watch and learn.

These horses need exercising every day,

even during inclement weather.

It's so elegant, isn't it?

So, Ellie, was it you standing up here in the field, watching your dad

that made you think, "I want to do that"?

Yeah. And when I was younger, I used to sit with him, between his legs.

From that moment, I loved it.

-And I just love being around horses, as well.

-Yeah. Yeah.

They're very kind of magical animals, really, aren't they?

Yeah. Yeah.

It's a lovely thing to watch.

I'm absolutely terrified about the thought of doing it, I have to say.

Mathew, that was just wonderful to watch! Just wonderful!

Now it's my turn to be brave.

Mathew is letting me drive Lou.

He's still in training and, hopefully, will take it easy on me.

I know! He's looking at me going,

"Do you actually know what you're doing?"

No, is the answer, but I'm learning.

Dressed for the occasion, I get myself into position.

-Park yourself on there.

-Yeah.

Are my feet in the right place, or should I have them up?

You can have them up, if you want, or you can have them down.

I might start with them down. It feels a little bit gynaecological.

OK. Leave his rein go a bit. Lou, come on, walk on.

-All right?

-It feels amazingly steady.

Thankfully, we start gently.

It's no good running before you can walk, as they say.

No. I'm very, very happy, I have to say, being a slightly old lady.

KATE LAUGHS

But once I get the feel for it, there's no stopping me.

Oh, this is fantastic! Ha-ha-ha!

Trotting racetracks are usually a mile long,

and even though I'm doing nothing like top speed,

when racing, these horses can cover it in under two minutes.

Ha-ha-ha! I'm loving this!

Oh, you're looking after me beautifully, Lou!

Look, we're giving Teg a run for her money. Good boy!

-Good boy, Lou.

-Steady.

-Good boy, Lou.

Oh, Mathew, I'm loving it! You're not having your horse back!

-THEY LAUGH

-I think she's got the hang of it now.

She'll be on the racetrack next week.

Good boy!

Steady!

Whoo!

Thank you!

What a good boy you were!

I have to give you a hug. I know your wife's here and everything, but...

-I'm glad you enjoyed it.

-I loved it!

It's been a huge treat and a really lovely introduction

to something that I absolutely knew nothing about.

-So, thank you, thank you...

-I'm glad you enjoyed it.

-..very, very much.

I loved it. What do you think, Teg?

It would make you fit, wouldn't it, chasing me around?

-You could get used to it, couldn't you, Teg?

-I think you'd quite like it, wouldn't you?

You'd make quite a good carriage dog.

Whilst horses are popular in Wales,

the most common animals are sheep.

They outnumber humans by three to one.

Their wool has kept the Welsh snug and warm for centuries.

However, today, the wool industry barely exists.

Just eight miles south,

I visit one of eight remaining traditional woollen mills in Wales.

Elvet Woollen Mill has been running for 120 years.

But today, it's single-handedly operated

by 86-year-old Englishman Michael Tolputt,

who first came to Wales as a child evacuee during the Second World War.

What was it about Wales that made you want to come and be here?

-The people.

-Was it?

-Yes. I found the Welsh people to be very generous.

-Yeah.

When you consider that there were these brats coming from England.

They didn't know what they were taking into their house,

into their homes, but they welcomed us with open arms.

Nearly 40 years ago, Michael was offered to take over the Elvet Woollen Mill.

And today, this Englishman is keeping the Welsh weaving tradition alive.

THEY LAUGH

It looks fantastically ancient!

Ancient, yes.

Before any weaving takes place,

the yarn is transferred onto plastic cones.

How many cones do you need to make, I don't know, a blanket for a bed?

-If we take a tapestry bedcover...

-Yeah.

So you need 256 cones.

My goodness!

-And this can do ten at a time?

-Ten at a time.

So, you have to do this process 26 times

-before you can even get started?

-Yeah.

Patience is a virtue in this line of work.

The cones are then arranged on another machine

into a pattern that only Michael can understand.

Can you translate the pattern

that you want to make in your head to where the wool needs to go?

Oh, yes. I can break it down into the threads.

-Really?

-Yes.

-That's remarkable!

But Super Mike doesn't stop there.

The next stage puts the intricacy of his work into perspective.

Each strand is individually threaded onto the warping mill

in a very meticulous order.

So you'll have 2,560 threads on here. All 77 yards long.

And every single thread, you will have hand-tied from here?

Yes.

Wow!

Then, finally, the threads come together on the looms.

It really is handmade by your hands.

Oh, yes. Yes.

This loom is set up for making a traditional Welsh tapestry,

a pattern known as Caernarfon.

And that's my cue to get involved.

-All you've got to do is just pull that.

-Once?

-Once. Just like that.

-OK.

Just pull it now, before I start up.

It will give you an idea of the tension.

-OK.

-Right?

-Yep.

-It'll be bang-bang-bang-bang-bang!

-Yes.

-As soon as you do that.

-OK.

I'm not going to mess up this priceless piece of cloth, am I?

Well, I did say, "Are you insured"?

THEY LAUGH

Probably not for that much.

Some of these machines have been working since 1904.

And even though this is absolutely in the fabric of Welsh heritage,

the items produced here are sold in Japan and America, not in Wales.

Michael stands here for hours, making sure there are no problems.

So, what's happened there?

-You see the thread broke?

-Oh, yes.

And the loom shut down.

But how on earth do you then fix that?

Michael ties a little knot to join the threads,

but soon after starting again, another one goes,

and I feel the weight of responsibility on my shoulders.

It's almost like you set this up.

It doesn't feel very secure, Mike.

I was trying to make it tiny.

I was hoping, at the end of the day, you might want me

as your apprentice, but I think I might have failed my first test.

You're doing exactly the same knot as I did.

At least I don't have to embarrass myself any further,

as one of Michael's clients turns up to inspect her order.

Do you have a slight crush?

Because I've already developed one and I only met him an hour ago.

-Yeah, I know. It's hopeless, isn't it?

-Hopeless.

-Yep.

-He's recording this!

-He is.

Wool producer Polly Jones rears a rare breed of sheep

and trusts nobody else to weave her products.

However, there is an undeniable threat looming over this mill.

This mill was started in 1880 and it's been in production ever since.

I must admit, I don't have many worries, but one of my biggest

worries is what happens when I no longer

turn up to carry this work on,

because I don't see anybody else coming along...

..to take over.

-I think the colleges used to have weaving courses.

-Yeah.

And the colleges locally don't do that now.

-So something that is an enormously proud Welsh tradition...

-Yeah.

-..could be lost?

-Oh, yes.

It could be the coal mines all over again.

That would just be desperately sad.

Well, there's only one thing for it, Mike.

You're just not allowed to die!

You're going to have to just stick around for a bit longer.

Isn't he, Polly?

Oh, I mean, I've told him ten years at least I want.

And if not, I'll dig him up!

I'll come and help you.

Mike, it's been an absolute pleasure... Pleasure to meet you.

-And, Polly, thank you.

-You're welcome.

I'm going to steal that.

In the rich tapestry of Welsh life many things come and go,

but even when we think something may be lost forever,

we can still be surprised.

Six miles south, I discover an animal trying to reclaim its place

in the waterways of the Welsh countryside.

Beavers became extinct here some 400 years ago,

hunted down for their fur, meat and scent oil.

Today, biologist and farmer Dr Nick Fox is at the forefront of a

project that aims to reintroduce beavers into the wilds of Wales.

In the history of Pembrokeshire, in 1603,

it was written about the beavers in the Welsh...

..South Wales rivers. Right

And all through history, back to 10,000 years ago,

in the last ice age, this has been a stronghold for beavers,

-because we've got water here.

-You have!

Yeah, and we've got bogs and stuff.

So things that beavers love.

And they weren't hunted out because they were a pest,

they were hunted out because they were wanted so much.

It got to the point where a beaver pelt skin was worth

the same as a good horse.

-Wow.

-Yeah.

Why did you think that it would be good to bring beavers back?

The farm here isn't really paying its way from the agricultural

point of view, and so we've put about 30%

of the farm out of agriculture, all the sort of rough bits,

into wildlife habitats.

So now we're trying to "farm" wildlife economically.

-It goes under the heading of tourism, if you like.

-Yeah.

But really, for me, it's not about tourism,

it's about allowing people to come to the countryside,

to experience the countryside, and to learn first-hand about,

in this case beavers, but other things, too, for real.

Three years ago, Nick Brought a pair of beavers from Devon to his farm,

as an experiment to prove that beavers can help generate

habitat for themselves and other creatures in Wales.

The hope is that the Welsh government will approve an

application to release ten pairs of beavers

along two rivers in Carmarthenshire.

Today, there are three family groups

living in different parts of Nick's farm

and it's Andrew Love-Jones and Jo Oliver's job to keep on top

of how the beavers are changing this landscape.

-Ah!

-Now, here we are.

-Now, that...

-That's your absolute classic...

-I recognise that.

-..cartoon beaver.

Look at that! Oh, that is just brilliant!

-So this is a cherry.

-Yeah.

And I really didn't want them to take a cherry.

So on a still evening, if you just go and sit quietly on the pond

-you can hear them.

-HE CRUNCHES LOUDLY

-It's fantastic.

-And I love the fact that they turn everything

-into a beautifully sharpened pencil.

-Yeah, absolutely.

One of the biggest concerns that people have with beavers

-is they chew trees.

-Yeah.

What we don't realise is that they do regenerate.

And here beavers have chewed this,

but you've got a new shoot regenerating already.

However, not all trees survive the beavers' sharp teeth.

So to stop them munching on certain ones,

they've found an effective solution.

Tens of thousands of miles of old sheet netting,

-as you can imagine, hanging around farms.

-Yep.

And it's as simple as just putting a bit around a tree like that.

-And that will work, will it?

-That will work.

They just don't like the feel of metal.

These busy nocturnal animals harvest trees for food,

and use the leftover ones as building material

for their lodges and dams.

It's just an amazing piece of engineering.

There's big rocks in there.

-How they carry them...

-Yeah.

I don't know if you've seen beavers' arms, they're only little.

They're only little things, yeah.

But they have quite substantial stones,

-they have the big branches that they use as buttresses...

-Yeah.

-..and then they weave it all in and they work the clay.

-Yeah.

-It's amazing. But it's interesting that it isn't a solid dam.

-No.

-It's porous and that's why they don't give.

-Right.

Today it's pouring down, we've got an awful lot of water

coming down the hill, but it's allowing water through.

So this isn't bad engineering...

This isn't bad engineering, this is design.

..this is really clever.

So it's like a filtering system.

Yeah, and that's the by-product of these porous dams,

is they filter out sediment.

Right, so for rivers that get absolutely sediment-bound

-and have to be dredged...

-Absolutely.

-..all you need is a couple of beavers.

-Yeah.

Another upside of constructions like this is that they help to

slow the flow of water and so can prevent flooding.

Of course, they do change landscapes and not everybody

is in favour of the reintroduction of beavers.

We're never going to try and say there won't be problems

with beavers. There has to be the ability in law

-to manage beavers where they're not wanted.

-Yeah.

So in areas where there's flood prevention measures,

-we don't need beavers.

-Yeah.

But in areas where further upstream we could help prevent floods...

-Yeah.

-..that's where we need beavers.

That's where you need beavers.

But the beauty is, Kate, just over there

we've our silage fields, which are productive.

-So we've got this...

-Yes.

-So you can have both.

-You can have both. Give nature the bits that aren't useful...

-Yep.

-..for our purposes.

-Yeah.

-Because that's what nature likes.

-Because they can make it useful.

-They can make it useful.

And we'll look after the bits that we can get tractors on.

Beavers have already been returned to Scotland and parts of England.

At Nick's farm they seem well established.

I just hope they'll show themselves this evening.

Is that one there? Oh!

Is that one? Just there.

It's halfway between the island and the mainland.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

Got it. Oh!

I can't believe we saw one!

I was sitting here thinking, "We're never going to see one,

"not on a night like this."

That's so exciting.

HE LAUGHS

That's a treat.

Well, these are true Welsh beavers, born and bred.

So, in a way, the beavers are back,

it's just the bureaucracy we have to sort out next.

Teg and I have travelled nearly 2,500 miles across Wales,

starting in the spring and ending in the autumn.

Now we're going to leave dry land and take to the water

at Llansteffan for our grand finale.

Ferry crossings to the neighbouring village Ferryside

were established here almost 1,000 years ago,

but the service was brought to an end in the 1950s.

Today, we're taking 81-year-old local librarian Eiluned Rees

on a journey down memory lane, as we whisk her across to Ferryside

with the help of an expert team from Llansteffan Rowing Club.

So you're joining the wonderful wrinklies today, Kate.

KATE LAUGHS

I'm extremely honoured.

Back In The 1950s, when Eiluned was amongst the last people

to be ferried across, things were a little bit different.

The boat that you took as a child to go and get your fish and chips

and your ice cream, was that sort of an official service?

No, it was Willy Jones' boat, he was a fisherman.

He catered for visitors as and when they needed it.

Oh, OK. So how did you let him know?

His sister used to live in Llansteffan

and you could go to her and then, if there were enough people,

she'd wave a flag and he'd come over with the boat.

KATE LAUGHS

And was that the last boat service

-basically between Llansteffan and Ferryside?

-Yes.

-Right, shall I try and pull my weight a little bit?

-You can.

I've never rowed before, but team coach Nicola Thomas is at hand.

-Arms straight out in front.

-Yeah.

-Drop the blades in.

-Yeah.

So then it's a body pivot back and then finish with your arms.

You're pushing through the footplate at all times,

that's where your power comes from.

So in, lean and pull.

With Kate, then, gentlemen. Make her look good.

-We'll take our lead from you, Kate.

-And in, lean and pull

How are you doing, Eiluned?

It's wonderful. Absolutely wonderful.

Is it bringing back happy memories?

This is better than a world cruise.

That's the right thing to say!

With Kate, then, gentlemen. Don't rush a lady.

Even though Llansteffan and Ferryside are only a mile

apart across the estuary,

to drive between the two takes up to an hour.

However, new plans are afoot to reinstate the ferry crossing,

but the punters shouldn't be expected to row.

-Oh, come on, Kate!

-And in. Good.

Keep rowing until we stop, guys. Keep rowing until we stop.

Thank you for being so patient with me.

Now, then, who's buying the fish and chips

and who's buying the ice cream?

You're out of luck, my purse is in the car!

It'll be me, then. Come on, Teg.

You're a good dog. Did you enjoy it? Did you enjoy it?

I loved it. I absolutely loved it.

Thank you very, very much.

Thank you, Kate. Thank you.

So here we are in South Wales, after starting our journey many

months ago in North Wales.

We've come right through the middle of this country

that has this extraordinary mix of tradition,

of heritage, of real pride in its culture.

It's a country that welcomes in people from the outside,

as long as they properly appreciate where they are.

And, my goodness, I've met some people.

HE GRUNTS

If I was a doe, I couldn't resist that!

-Shwmae.

-Shwmae!

SHE LAUGHS

Oh! I can't speak, it's too cold!

It's a really, really special country

and I feel very proud to call it home.

Teg!