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I'm taking a hike through one of the least trampled parts of the UK, | 0:00:03 | 0:00:06 | |
a land of big skies and majestic views. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:11 | |
This is the Yorkshire Wolds, | 0:00:11 | 0:00:13 | |
a swathe of rolling chalk hills | 0:00:13 | 0:00:15 | |
in the eastern part of God's Own County. | 0:00:15 | 0:00:18 | |
It's a tranquil corner of England that's well off | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
the normal tourist track. | 0:00:21 | 0:00:23 | |
But I've heard the Wolds are full of surprises. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:25 | |
CHUCKLING: I just love it, they're so close. | 0:00:28 | 0:00:30 | |
I love that feeling that they're sort of like little kids. | 0:00:30 | 0:00:33 | |
In this series, I'll be following the 79 miles | 0:00:33 | 0:00:35 | |
of Britain's least well-known national trial. | 0:00:35 | 0:00:38 | |
I'll get a very different view of the Wolds. | 0:00:40 | 0:00:42 | |
I'm flying over the Wolds Way. Wow, this is amazing. | 0:00:42 | 0:00:46 | |
I'll be going underground, too. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:50 | |
This might have been for Queen and country, but to me, it seems like | 0:00:50 | 0:00:54 | |
a job from hell. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:56 | |
And I'll see a side of the Wolds that's hidden from view. | 0:00:57 | 0:01:01 | |
-There we go. -Wow. | 0:01:01 | 0:01:03 | |
That's a big thing up there. | 0:01:03 | 0:01:04 | |
This is Yorkshire as you've never seen it before. | 0:01:07 | 0:01:10 | |
Welcome to the Wolds. | 0:01:10 | 0:01:12 | |
I'm used to gruelling expeditions in far-flung places. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:28 | |
So, for me, the Yorkshire Wolds Way is a joy. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:35 | |
It's almost 80 miles of easy-going terrain across | 0:01:35 | 0:01:38 | |
the most northerly chalk landscape in England. | 0:01:38 | 0:01:41 | |
And even if you take your time, you can cover it in just over a week. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:46 | |
The hike starts by the Humber Estuary | 0:01:48 | 0:01:50 | |
and finishes by the North Sea. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:52 | |
And I'm almost at the halfway point. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:54 | |
But before I hit the trail, I'm taking a short detour to Pocklington | 0:01:57 | 0:02:01 | |
for a chance to see the Wolds from a whole new perspective. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:04 | |
This aerodrome was once an RAF bomber base. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:09 | |
These days, the flying's a lot more peaceful. | 0:02:09 | 0:02:11 | |
I'm here for one of the big events in the club calendar. | 0:02:18 | 0:02:21 | |
It's the national Two Seater Competition. | 0:02:21 | 0:02:24 | |
The way they win these things is to fly a prescribed course, | 0:02:24 | 0:02:27 | |
and the further they go, the more points they pick up. | 0:02:27 | 0:02:30 | |
But if they're too ambitious, | 0:02:30 | 0:02:31 | |
they're going to land in a farmer's field, | 0:02:31 | 0:02:33 | |
or Sheffield, or the M62. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:35 | |
More than 30 gliders are involved in the week-long event. | 0:02:36 | 0:02:39 | |
Gordon Basey is a leading contender. | 0:02:40 | 0:02:43 | |
But 12 years ago, his whole world came crashing down. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:47 | |
One Wednesday I was on my motorbike | 0:02:47 | 0:02:50 | |
and this drunk-driver turned in front of me, right in front of me, | 0:02:50 | 0:02:54 | |
and I just T-boned, went over the top and landed a bit funny. | 0:02:54 | 0:03:01 | |
Just nipped my spinal cord, left me paralysed from the waist down. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:06 | |
The accident happened on his way to the airfield. | 0:03:07 | 0:03:09 | |
It seemed Gordon's flying career was over. | 0:03:09 | 0:03:12 | |
I got back in the club glider before I got driving on the road. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:16 | |
-Yeah! -How did that feel? | 0:03:18 | 0:03:19 | |
It felt really good. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:21 | |
-How do you fancy your chances today? -We always fancy our chances. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:25 | |
It's a fun event, but there's always that element of competition. | 0:03:25 | 0:03:30 | |
And we like winning! | 0:03:30 | 0:03:32 | |
Gordon now flies a specially adapted glider, and like the rest of | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
the pilots, he'll be pitting his skills against the British weather. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
Ah, here's Gordon. | 0:03:43 | 0:03:45 | |
Good luck, mate! | 0:03:45 | 0:03:46 | |
Gordon's towed to the right height by one of the tug planes. | 0:03:50 | 0:03:53 | |
They're the workhorses. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:55 | |
And one pilot here now has 40,000 sorties under his belt. | 0:03:55 | 0:04:00 | |
I started towing in 1974. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:03 | |
-OK. -And I've been towing regularly ever since. | 0:04:03 | 0:04:07 | |
Are you one of the oldest tug pilots in the country? | 0:04:07 | 0:04:09 | |
Well, I've been told I am the oldest in the country. | 0:04:09 | 0:04:11 | |
-How old are you? -87. -87! | 0:04:11 | 0:04:15 | |
Wow. Well, the extent of my research shows that being a tug pilot | 0:04:15 | 0:04:18 | |
-is very good for your health. -Yeah, keeps you going! | 0:04:18 | 0:04:20 | |
PAUL LAUGHS | 0:04:20 | 0:04:21 | |
With the gliders now up and away, | 0:04:21 | 0:04:23 | |
instructor Graham Wadforth is going to show me the Wolds | 0:04:23 | 0:04:27 | |
from a few thousand feet. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:28 | |
Hang on. | 0:04:28 | 0:04:30 | |
I'm looking forward to the very good feeling of being in this bird. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:33 | |
-No engine. -No engine. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:35 | |
Here we go, Graham. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:41 | |
We've floated off, the tug is off, | 0:04:46 | 0:04:48 | |
and now it's just a case of remaining behind the tug. | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
He is staying low to increase speed and, once he's got a bit more speed, | 0:04:51 | 0:04:57 | |
as you can see now, we start to climb. | 0:04:57 | 0:05:00 | |
Beautiful, wow! | 0:05:00 | 0:05:01 | |
It's great to be up, Graham! | 0:05:01 | 0:05:03 | |
PAUL LAUGHS | 0:05:03 | 0:05:04 | |
It doesn't take much, does it? | 0:05:04 | 0:05:06 | |
It doesn't. Going to release now, | 0:05:06 | 0:05:09 | |
so watch the ripple travel along the rope. | 0:05:09 | 0:05:11 | |
-OK. -Look out to the left, it's clear. | 0:05:11 | 0:05:14 | |
Pull the rope. There's the ripple. Climbing turn to the left, | 0:05:14 | 0:05:17 | |
and the tug has done a diving turn to the right. | 0:05:17 | 0:05:20 | |
-And he's disappeared. -And it's so peaceful. | 0:05:20 | 0:05:23 | |
I feel as if I can see almost the whole of the Wolds Way. | 0:05:26 | 0:05:29 | |
-Well, you can, actually. -Yes! | 0:05:29 | 0:05:31 | |
You can, literally. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:32 | |
'You can fly one of these things aged just 14, | 0:05:35 | 0:05:38 | |
'which means I'm definitely old enough to have a go.' | 0:05:38 | 0:05:41 | |
See the way the nose is tracking around the horizon? | 0:05:43 | 0:05:45 | |
-Yeah. -Keep the same angle of bank and just make small adjustments | 0:05:45 | 0:05:50 | |
-to keep it in this turn. -OK. -You have control. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
-OK. -So you're doing the flying now, Paul. | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
Yeah, I've got it. Trying to keep my eye on the horizon. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:59 | |
Oh, I'm actually flying, Graham! | 0:05:59 | 0:06:00 | |
You're actually doing the flying, Paul. | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
I'm flying over the Wolds Way! | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
This has to be the perfect way to reflect on the bit of the Wolds Way | 0:06:07 | 0:06:12 | |
I've done, and make a very accurate reconnaissance of where I'm going. | 0:06:12 | 0:06:16 | |
'Now that's what I call an uplifting experience.' | 0:06:17 | 0:06:21 | |
Wow, Graham. Thank you very much, sir. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:35 | |
-Thank you! -You're welcome. -HE LAUGHS | 0:06:35 | 0:06:37 | |
Did you enjoy it? | 0:06:37 | 0:06:39 | |
Did I ever enjoy it! As you say, | 0:06:39 | 0:06:41 | |
it can be addictive, or it is addictive, | 0:06:41 | 0:06:43 | |
so I'm hooked. | 0:06:43 | 0:06:45 | |
I've been up and down, but Gordon is still flying high. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:49 | |
The gliders have been gone for most of the afternoon. | 0:06:50 | 0:06:53 | |
Now the race is on to get back to the Wolds. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:55 | |
Good man. There comes Gordon. | 0:06:58 | 0:06:59 | |
He's been doing about 150mph. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:02 | |
He's going to come down and land. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:03 | |
He's had a long flight, so I expect he's done really well. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:06 | |
Gordon's covered almost 200 miles. | 0:07:07 | 0:07:10 | |
It's been a great effort, | 0:07:10 | 0:07:11 | |
but not enough this time to land him the championship. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:14 | |
CHUCKLING: Welcome back, Gordon. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:16 | |
-That was good fun. -Was it good fun? It looked fantastic. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:19 | |
I know you're busy thinking about the competition, | 0:07:21 | 0:07:23 | |
but what I was thinking about was the sense of freedom. | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
Here's a man who got knocked off his bike. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:27 | |
When you're driving around, walking around, | 0:07:27 | 0:07:29 | |
you have a bit of a hard time. But when you're up there flying, | 0:07:29 | 0:07:32 | |
-you're free as a bird. -You don't think about that when you're flying, | 0:07:32 | 0:07:35 | |
because you just fly along, doing it like anybody else. | 0:07:35 | 0:07:39 | |
Hats off to Gordon and the rest of the gliders who ride the thermals | 0:07:43 | 0:07:47 | |
high above the Wolds. But, for me, | 0:07:47 | 0:07:49 | |
the view from ground level is just as stunning. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:52 | |
Boy, these valleys are beautiful. | 0:07:57 | 0:07:59 | |
We call them the dry valleys, | 0:07:59 | 0:08:00 | |
and they're one of the real special features of the Wolds Way. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:03 | |
It looks for all the world | 0:08:03 | 0:08:04 | |
as if it's been sort of man-made, doesn't it? | 0:08:04 | 0:08:07 | |
Like a railway cutting. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:09 | |
But, in fact, it's been cut by a run-off from the last ice age. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:12 | |
When the glaciers melted 11,000 years ago, | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
all that water cut these wonderful valleys, | 0:08:15 | 0:08:17 | |
and that water has now gone down, deep in the chalk. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
I find these valleys really beautiful. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:22 | |
I'm looking forward to getting amongst it. | 0:08:22 | 0:08:24 | |
There's a whole network of dry valleys in the Wolds. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:32 | |
And, in summer, these well-drained banks, with its calcium-rich soil, | 0:08:32 | 0:08:36 | |
burst into colour. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:37 | |
You find these benches all along the Wolds Way. | 0:08:46 | 0:08:49 | |
They're beautiful shapes, | 0:08:49 | 0:08:50 | |
and this natural, weathered wood | 0:08:50 | 0:08:52 | |
reflects the shape and texture and geology | 0:08:52 | 0:08:55 | |
of the landscape. Plus, most of them have got this poetry on, | 0:08:55 | 0:08:58 | |
which helps us connect with the whole idea of walking the Wolds Way. | 0:08:58 | 0:09:02 | |
All in all, this is just a great place to sit and take in the view. | 0:09:02 | 0:09:07 | |
There are great views around every corner, | 0:09:14 | 0:09:17 | |
and artist Robert Fuller has one of the best. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:20 | |
But his main interest isn't the landscape, it's the local residents. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
We've got live cameras, and these are | 0:09:24 | 0:09:26 | |
all around the garden and just the surrounding area. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:28 | |
So all of these are within 100 yards of here, | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
but they're all live cameras on wildlife. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:33 | |
So we've got all sorts of things going on here. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
And, just to be clear, this isn't your garden fenced in, you know, | 0:09:36 | 0:09:40 | |
zoo-type thing. This is the wild Wolds? | 0:09:40 | 0:09:42 | |
-It is, yeah. -You just happen to have cameras in there? | 0:09:42 | 0:09:44 | |
Yeah, yeah. Across the Wolds, all this action is happening, | 0:09:44 | 0:09:46 | |
but we've managed to capture some of the stuff that's happening locally. | 0:09:46 | 0:09:51 | |
The cameras at his gallery near the village of Thixendale have captured | 0:09:51 | 0:09:55 | |
almost every detail of these animals' lives. | 0:09:55 | 0:09:58 | |
So, this is the garden. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:00 | |
Yes. And this is exactly what I mean. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:03 | |
Because it looks at first glance just like a beautiful garden. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:06 | |
With no hint of all this wonderful activity that's going on. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:10 | |
Yeah, and if you start looking closely, you can see we've got | 0:10:10 | 0:10:13 | |
a pile of old roots there, but inside there, | 0:10:13 | 0:10:15 | |
it's like technology in there. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:16 | |
We've got a feeding box, we've got a camera in there, | 0:10:16 | 0:10:20 | |
we've got motion sensors, so when the weasel arrives, | 0:10:20 | 0:10:23 | |
I know straightaway, it alerts me to their presence. | 0:10:23 | 0:10:26 | |
The thing that really strikes me, standing here, | 0:10:27 | 0:10:29 | |
is that there is the beautiful Wolds, out there, | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
and of course all of this wild activity is going on all the time, | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
but we can't see it when we're walking around. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:37 | |
But you've managed to capture all of these secret, intimate lives? | 0:10:37 | 0:10:42 | |
Yeah. It's looking into the secret world of them, | 0:10:42 | 0:10:44 | |
especially the weasels. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:45 | |
And then, just around the corner here, we've got the kestrel nesting. | 0:10:45 | 0:10:48 | |
He's actually got so used to me now, he actually nests in the garden, | 0:10:48 | 0:10:51 | |
which is just great. | 0:10:51 | 0:10:52 | |
With a remarkable amount of patience, | 0:10:55 | 0:10:57 | |
Robert's got close to the very best of British wildlife, | 0:10:57 | 0:11:01 | |
including a family of tawny owls that nest near his gallery. | 0:11:01 | 0:11:05 | |
They're tricky to spot, but they're up in this canopy. | 0:11:06 | 0:11:08 | |
I can see there's one right here, he's looking straight at us. | 0:11:08 | 0:11:11 | |
Yeah, they're beautiful, aren't they? | 0:11:11 | 0:11:12 | |
They're about ten weeks old, these owls, | 0:11:12 | 0:11:14 | |
-so they're well on their way. -So they are flying? -Oh, yeah. | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
They can fly, yeah. They look fluffy, but they can fly well, yeah. | 0:11:17 | 0:11:20 | |
Young tawny owls sometimes fall out of trees, | 0:11:20 | 0:11:23 | |
and people mistakenly think they've been orphaned. | 0:11:23 | 0:11:26 | |
Over the years, Robert's looked after many owlets. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:29 | |
So, to keep them wild, | 0:11:29 | 0:11:31 | |
he takes advantage of the fact that his own adult owls can't count. | 0:11:31 | 0:11:35 | |
I've got away with putting seven in. | 0:11:35 | 0:11:36 | |
They already had three chicks of their own, | 0:11:36 | 0:11:38 | |
and we managed to get them to raise ten one year. | 0:11:38 | 0:11:41 | |
But we do that by supplement feeding the parent birds, | 0:11:41 | 0:11:43 | |
so we're not adding a vast amount of extra pressure on those birds, | 0:11:43 | 0:11:48 | |
and we actually then put the food up in the garden at home, | 0:11:48 | 0:11:51 | |
and the chicks then learn to come up into the garden. | 0:11:51 | 0:11:53 | |
This extra feeding means Robert gets an amazing night-time show. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:01 | |
One by one, the tawny owl chicks arrive for their free meal. | 0:12:07 | 0:12:10 | |
I've never seen so many owls in one place. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:14 | |
We've had seven baby owls, just all in the garden, | 0:12:17 | 0:12:21 | |
-plus one of the parents. So it's been really good. -Yeah. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:23 | |
CHUCKLING: I just love it, they're so close. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:26 | |
I love that feeling that they're sort of like your kids. | 0:12:26 | 0:12:28 | |
Yeah, they are. I do feel responsible for them. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
I've brought them into this area, some of the chicks. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:33 | |
I just think it's a lovely connection | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
between the real bit of the wild Wolds, | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
and your bit, which is right onto it. | 0:12:39 | 0:12:41 | |
I think it's just terrific. | 0:12:41 | 0:12:43 | |
I'm now 50 miles into the Wolds Way. | 0:12:48 | 0:12:51 | |
And nestled deep in the land of dry valleys is the isolated village | 0:12:51 | 0:12:55 | |
of Thixendale. A place where, for centuries, not much changed. | 0:12:55 | 0:12:59 | |
Steve Lyus and Ivy Eden grew up in the village, | 0:13:05 | 0:13:08 | |
just as Thixendale of old was giving way to the new. | 0:13:08 | 0:13:11 | |
One day, I came home from school and my mother was scrubbing the floor | 0:13:13 | 0:13:17 | |
with the light on. I couldn't believe we'd got electric! | 0:13:17 | 0:13:21 | |
Electric! There was no traffic. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:24 | |
Look at that, that's the main street. | 0:13:24 | 0:13:26 | |
Everybody played in the street. | 0:13:26 | 0:13:28 | |
And everybody made things. | 0:13:28 | 0:13:30 | |
You know, you'd lose your coat in September, | 0:13:30 | 0:13:33 | |
and it'd come back at Christmas as a teddy bear. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:35 | |
And you thought, "I've seen that before somewhere!" | 0:13:35 | 0:13:37 | |
PAUL LAUGHS | 0:13:37 | 0:13:39 | |
Nobody mentioned disease or anything. | 0:13:39 | 0:13:42 | |
And whatever was wrong with you, Paul, does not matter. | 0:13:42 | 0:13:45 | |
Whatever was wrong with me, "Thou's been in a draught." | 0:13:45 | 0:13:49 | |
What were you doing for entertainment? | 0:13:49 | 0:13:51 | |
When I first came to Thixendale, | 0:13:51 | 0:13:54 | |
it was just a black-and-white TV then, | 0:13:54 | 0:13:57 | |
with a really poor signal. | 0:13:57 | 0:13:59 | |
Watching football was like watching through a snowstorm. | 0:13:59 | 0:14:04 | |
Oh, you can't... | 0:14:04 | 0:14:05 | |
The only way you could tell where the ball was was by watching | 0:14:05 | 0:14:09 | |
which way the players were running. | 0:14:09 | 0:14:11 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:14:11 | 0:14:12 | |
The signal was poor because Thixendale lies at the bottom of | 0:14:12 | 0:14:15 | |
these steep valleys. | 0:14:15 | 0:14:17 | |
A communal aerial was set up with | 0:14:17 | 0:14:19 | |
a cable that went in and out of people's houses. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:22 | |
But interference from passing cars played havoc with the TV reception. | 0:14:22 | 0:14:27 | |
You would know who was passing by the line, | 0:14:27 | 0:14:29 | |
dot or square that was going along. | 0:14:29 | 0:14:32 | |
Ah, because each car had a different signal? | 0:14:32 | 0:14:34 | |
We knew when our George... "Where's he been? | 0:14:34 | 0:14:36 | |
"He's late tonight! | 0:14:36 | 0:14:38 | |
"He's going home. | 0:14:38 | 0:14:39 | |
"Fred's coming." | 0:14:39 | 0:14:41 | |
You know, "He shouldn't be here tonight." | 0:14:41 | 0:14:44 | |
Everybody knew everybody's business by these lines on the television. | 0:14:44 | 0:14:49 | |
With the arrival of digital TV in the late 1990s, | 0:14:49 | 0:14:53 | |
Thixendale became one of the last places in the country to get | 0:14:53 | 0:14:56 | |
a decent television signal. | 0:14:56 | 0:14:58 | |
So with all those beautiful stories in mind, | 0:14:58 | 0:15:00 | |
what would you sooner have - Thixendale then or Thixendale today? | 0:15:00 | 0:15:04 | |
Then. Definitely then. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:06 | |
-No hesitation? -No hesitation. | 0:15:06 | 0:15:08 | |
-Then. -Then was really good, but I think possibly a bit of both. | 0:15:08 | 0:15:12 | |
-Ah, well, you're very wise. -PAUL LAUGHS | 0:15:12 | 0:15:15 | |
You're very wise. | 0:15:15 | 0:15:16 | |
The great thing about doing the Wolds Way is that it's so quiet, | 0:15:18 | 0:15:22 | |
you can have much of the trail to yourself. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:24 | |
Well, some of the time. | 0:15:24 | 0:15:26 | |
Blimey, look at this lot. | 0:15:28 | 0:15:30 | |
-Hello! -Hello there. -This is quite a parade here. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:36 | |
-Where are you going? -We're going to Sledmere, Sledmere House. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:39 | |
-I'm going to Sledmere House. -Are you? Do you want a lift? | 0:15:39 | 0:15:41 | |
-Yes, please! -Hop in. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:44 | |
We're actually... There's a car rally on this weekend, | 0:15:44 | 0:15:47 | |
so you couldn't have picked a better weekend to come. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:50 | |
-Perfect timing. My name's Paul. -I'm Chris. Nice to meet you. | 0:15:50 | 0:15:53 | |
Thank you. | 0:15:53 | 0:15:54 | |
There's a whole group of you. How many? | 0:15:56 | 0:15:58 | |
We've got 30 of us out on a road run. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:01 | |
Every summer, around 500 vehicles gather on the Wolds for one of | 0:16:01 | 0:16:05 | |
the biggest classic car rallies in the north of England. | 0:16:05 | 0:16:09 | |
Beautiful car. Is it your car? | 0:16:09 | 0:16:10 | |
It is, yes, yes, thank you. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:12 | |
It's a 1923 Crossley. | 0:16:12 | 0:16:15 | |
-Wow. -Perfect for a sunny summer's evening. | 0:16:15 | 0:16:18 | |
It's absolutely beautiful. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:20 | |
Made in Manchester. So a proper northern car. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:23 | |
-Home brewed! -Bit of northern steel. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:24 | |
We're so lucky in Yorkshire. We've got the Dales to the west, | 0:16:27 | 0:16:30 | |
we've got the Yorkshire Wolds with these big rolling, massive views, | 0:16:30 | 0:16:34 | |
got the North York Moors. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:35 | |
And this is the way to see it, isn't it? | 0:16:35 | 0:16:37 | |
The cars are taking me to Sledmere, | 0:16:43 | 0:16:45 | |
one of the Wolds' great country houses. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
It's been in the hands of the Sykes family since the middle of | 0:16:48 | 0:16:51 | |
the 18th century. But this Georgian pile isn't all it seems. | 0:16:51 | 0:16:55 | |
-Good to see you. -Christopher, thanks a lot. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:00 | |
-Come in, come in. -Thank you very much. | 0:17:00 | 0:17:03 | |
It appears to be Georgian, but in fact, the entire house is a fake. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:08 | |
Because it was destroyed by a fire in 1911 and gutted, | 0:17:08 | 0:17:12 | |
leaving only the outside walls. | 0:17:12 | 0:17:15 | |
They were able to evacuate 90% of the contents of the house. | 0:17:15 | 0:17:19 | |
Everybody in the village came. | 0:17:19 | 0:17:21 | |
There was a human chain started | 0:17:21 | 0:17:22 | |
with the men inside | 0:17:22 | 0:17:24 | |
and the little children out on the lawn. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:26 | |
The very last thing to go was the great statue of Apollo, | 0:17:26 | 0:17:29 | |
which was carried out at the end by four or five men. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:33 | |
Weighs at least a tonne. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:34 | |
Work to rebuild the house started in 1913. | 0:17:35 | 0:17:39 | |
The Great War soon followed. But despite that, | 0:17:39 | 0:17:43 | |
the refurbishment continued and wasn't finished until 1916. | 0:17:43 | 0:17:48 | |
It's remarkable that 90% of these contents could be salvaged. | 0:17:48 | 0:17:51 | |
But even more remarkable, don't you think, | 0:17:51 | 0:17:53 | |
that a house like this can be rebuilt | 0:17:53 | 0:17:55 | |
during a time of such conflict? | 0:17:55 | 0:17:56 | |
I know. It was rebuilt by elderly men, because all the young men | 0:17:56 | 0:18:02 | |
were at the war. I mean, the fact that during the war, | 0:18:02 | 0:18:05 | |
while people were dying on the battlefield, | 0:18:05 | 0:18:07 | |
this house was being built, | 0:18:07 | 0:18:09 | |
you know, a great house being built in Yorkshire, | 0:18:09 | 0:18:12 | |
it is quite odd, isn't it? | 0:18:12 | 0:18:14 | |
Today, Sledmere House is playing host to a nostalgia weekend. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:27 | |
And as well as the classic cars that are on parade, | 0:18:30 | 0:18:32 | |
everyone's getting in the mood with a bit of dressing up. | 0:18:32 | 0:18:35 | |
I've ended up with a little mismatch of uniforms here. | 0:18:37 | 0:18:42 | |
But it doesn't necessarily fit that well, | 0:18:42 | 0:18:46 | |
but I was more interested in the medals and the ranking. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:49 | |
Lieutenant Colonel. | 0:18:49 | 0:18:51 | |
It's fun now, but back in 1940, | 0:18:57 | 0:19:00 | |
the Yorkshire Wolds was on full invasion alert. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:03 | |
For Charlie Mason, | 0:19:05 | 0:19:06 | |
it was the start of a secret life in a small unit of volunteers who were | 0:19:06 | 0:19:10 | |
recruited to harass the enemy with bombs, bullets and assassinations. | 0:19:10 | 0:19:15 | |
This is Charlie in his latter years, and you can see he took his role | 0:19:15 | 0:19:19 | |
very seriously. Charlie's no longer with us, | 0:19:19 | 0:19:22 | |
but his daughter Jo knows his story. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:25 | |
My father, during the war, | 0:19:26 | 0:19:27 | |
was an aircraft engineer and he worked at what was then | 0:19:27 | 0:19:31 | |
Blackburn's aircraft factory. | 0:19:31 | 0:19:32 | |
And during the war he was in reserved occupation. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:34 | |
-Good-looking fellow, fit. -Yes, he was. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:36 | |
Yes, very fit, yes, kept himself active all his life. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:39 | |
My mother didn't know anything about what was happening. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:42 | |
The only thing that he did say to my mother was, | 0:19:42 | 0:19:44 | |
if the invasion took place, that what she was to do was | 0:19:44 | 0:19:47 | |
to let the chickens out of the coop so they could fend for themselves. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:49 | |
She was to get on her bike and go to her parents | 0:19:49 | 0:19:52 | |
and stay there with them, | 0:19:52 | 0:19:53 | |
because he said, "You won't see me again." | 0:19:53 | 0:19:55 | |
Having signed the Official Secrets Act, | 0:19:58 | 0:20:00 | |
the men were determined that no-one should know their role. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
I think some people started to get | 0:20:03 | 0:20:05 | |
a bit suspicious, particularly the local gamekeeper, | 0:20:05 | 0:20:07 | |
who, obviously, by the nature of his job, | 0:20:07 | 0:20:09 | |
was used to prowling around and keeping an eye on things. | 0:20:09 | 0:20:11 | |
He said to my dad one time, "I know what you're doing. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:14 | |
"I know what's going on." | 0:20:14 | 0:20:15 | |
My dad thought, "Well, that's not very good." | 0:20:15 | 0:20:18 | |
So when he talked to the rest of the unit, | 0:20:18 | 0:20:19 | |
they made an agreement between them that should the invasion take place, | 0:20:19 | 0:20:23 | |
that he was going to be the first one to go. | 0:20:23 | 0:20:25 | |
They weren't going to let him fall into enemy hands | 0:20:25 | 0:20:27 | |
and betray their secrets. | 0:20:27 | 0:20:29 | |
There's a rich vein of military history running through the Wolds, | 0:20:33 | 0:20:37 | |
but not all of it is obvious. | 0:20:37 | 0:20:39 | |
I'm on the trail of some strange structures that were built | 0:20:39 | 0:20:42 | |
when the country was gripped by the Cold War. | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
You could easily walk past this, | 0:20:46 | 0:20:48 | |
assuming it was water supply or something to do with services, | 0:20:48 | 0:20:51 | |
but it's actually a nuclear bunker. | 0:20:51 | 0:20:53 | |
And ten feet below me, three men would have been sheltering. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:57 | |
And their job? To report back on how badly Britain had been damaged | 0:20:57 | 0:21:02 | |
in a nuclear war with Russia. | 0:21:02 | 0:21:04 | |
SIREN DRONES | 0:21:04 | 0:21:05 | |
'When you hear the attack warning, | 0:21:05 | 0:21:07 | |
'you and your family must take cover at once.' | 0:21:07 | 0:21:10 | |
As East and West pointed an increasing number of warheads | 0:21:12 | 0:21:16 | |
at each other, the government made preparations | 0:21:16 | 0:21:18 | |
for nuclear Armageddon. | 0:21:18 | 0:21:20 | |
This might have been for Queen and country, but to me, | 0:21:22 | 0:21:26 | |
it seems like a job from hell. | 0:21:26 | 0:21:28 | |
You leave your family and friends behind, come down here, | 0:21:28 | 0:21:32 | |
wait for the bomb to drop. | 0:21:32 | 0:21:34 | |
The men were volunteers and trained to use monitoring equipment | 0:21:39 | 0:21:43 | |
for detecting the size and direction of a nuclear attack. | 0:21:43 | 0:21:47 | |
And this 7x16 foot room would have been their home. | 0:21:47 | 0:21:50 | |
Wow. It feels pretty good down here. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:55 | |
I thought it was going to smell like hell, | 0:21:55 | 0:21:56 | |
but it's in pretty good condition. | 0:21:56 | 0:21:58 | |
It's warm, pretty dry. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:00 | |
This concrete bunker high on the Wolds was one of around 1,500 | 0:22:02 | 0:22:07 | |
built across the UK. They were only stood down in the early 1990s. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:11 | |
The team down here had one single important thing on their mind, | 0:22:11 | 0:22:16 | |
and that was, after the blast, | 0:22:16 | 0:22:18 | |
get up, retrieve the equipment, come back down, | 0:22:18 | 0:22:21 | |
report the findings to their headquarters in York. | 0:22:21 | 0:22:24 | |
It was then a case of sitting out the nuclear fallout. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:28 | |
But with limited air filtration, | 0:22:28 | 0:22:30 | |
it's sobering to think that this building | 0:22:30 | 0:22:33 | |
could so easily have become a tomb. | 0:22:33 | 0:22:35 | |
The Cold War bunkers aren't easy to find. | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
But there are other wartime locations on the Wolds | 0:22:43 | 0:22:46 | |
that are impossible to miss. | 0:22:46 | 0:22:48 | |
These buildings can be seen for miles, | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
and they have a proud history. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:52 | |
In the late 1930s, with a war against Germany on the cards, | 0:22:54 | 0:22:57 | |
the government set up a network of radar bases | 0:22:57 | 0:23:01 | |
to keep the Luftwaffe at bay. | 0:23:01 | 0:23:03 | |
Remote Radar Head Staxton Wold is the only one that remains, | 0:23:03 | 0:23:07 | |
making it the oldest radar base on the planet. | 0:23:07 | 0:23:10 | |
At the height of the Battle of Britain, | 0:23:10 | 0:23:12 | |
Staxton Wold was in the thick of it, | 0:23:12 | 0:23:15 | |
countering German attacks | 0:23:15 | 0:23:16 | |
during a critical part of the air war in August 1940. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:20 | |
The Wolds Way passes right by the base. | 0:23:21 | 0:23:24 | |
And I've been given special permission to have a look inside. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:28 | |
Oh, yes, good afternoon. It's Paul Rose here, BBC. | 0:23:28 | 0:23:31 | |
All right to come in? Oh, thank you very much, thanks. | 0:23:31 | 0:23:34 | |
The original radar has been replaced by something | 0:23:37 | 0:23:39 | |
a lot more sophisticated. But it's still looking | 0:23:39 | 0:23:42 | |
for unauthorised incursions into British airspace. | 0:23:42 | 0:23:45 | |
There she is up close. | 0:23:47 | 0:23:49 | |
And, of course, it's a bit noisy, isn't it? | 0:23:49 | 0:23:51 | |
It is, there's a lot of moving parts going round and round. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:54 | |
-How far can that thing see? -It can see out to 250 nautical miles. | 0:23:54 | 0:23:57 | |
Which is quite a way. | 0:23:57 | 0:23:59 | |
That gives us a 360 degrees look. | 0:23:59 | 0:24:03 | |
So we've got a series of these air defence radars all round | 0:24:03 | 0:24:06 | |
-the UK's coast. -OK. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:08 | |
Which give us long range look-out so that we can identify and detect | 0:24:08 | 0:24:12 | |
anything flying around the UK's airspace. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:14 | |
Wow. 250 nautical miles, 360 degrees. | 0:24:14 | 0:24:18 | |
-That's right. -We're looking at the whole of our skies. | 0:24:18 | 0:24:22 | |
Staxton Wold has been a lookout post for more than 1,000 years. | 0:24:22 | 0:24:26 | |
Viking raiders were spotted from here. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:28 | |
And today, it's still keeping the country safe. | 0:24:28 | 0:24:31 | |
Here's the radar picture that we can see from the radar we've just been | 0:24:31 | 0:24:34 | |
looking at. Just to give you a bit of orientation, | 0:24:34 | 0:24:37 | |
we've got Humber down here, up to Flamborough Head, | 0:24:37 | 0:24:41 | |
Filey, and on up to Scarborough. | 0:24:41 | 0:24:42 | |
So this is the Wolds Way, which is good, because there's Filey. | 0:24:42 | 0:24:45 | |
-Exactly what you've walked. -There's the Wolds Way, great, OK! | 0:24:45 | 0:24:48 | |
All the green responses you see, | 0:24:48 | 0:24:50 | |
that's where we've detected something | 0:24:50 | 0:24:52 | |
and the radar's making up its mind | 0:24:52 | 0:24:54 | |
whether there's an aircraft there or not. | 0:24:54 | 0:24:56 | |
When it's happy there's an aircraft, | 0:24:56 | 0:24:58 | |
we get one of these yellow responses, | 0:24:58 | 0:25:00 | |
-such as this one down here. -Yeah. | 0:25:00 | 0:25:02 | |
And the leader, the little stick you see on the front, | 0:25:02 | 0:25:05 | |
-the longer that is, the faster it's going. -Right. | 0:25:05 | 0:25:08 | |
Anything suspicious could mean fighter jets | 0:25:08 | 0:25:11 | |
being scrambled to intercept. | 0:25:11 | 0:25:13 | |
A few months ago, we had some Russian aircraft coming through | 0:25:13 | 0:25:16 | |
the UK Flight Information Region. | 0:25:16 | 0:25:18 | |
The Russian aircraft don't send out a... | 0:25:18 | 0:25:22 | |
secondary surveillance response, | 0:25:22 | 0:25:24 | |
which our air traffic-ers use to tell | 0:25:24 | 0:25:26 | |
where it's going and what height it's at. | 0:25:26 | 0:25:28 | |
So by us launching a pair of Typhoons and intercepting it, | 0:25:28 | 0:25:32 | |
it was making that area safe for flight. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:34 | |
Keeping the skies safe by this brilliant technology. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:38 | |
Exactly. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:39 | |
With the radar base behind me, | 0:25:42 | 0:25:44 | |
I'm on the downhill stretch to the coast. | 0:25:44 | 0:25:46 | |
Ah! An important moment. I can see the sea. | 0:25:48 | 0:25:53 | |
Filey's just five miles away. | 0:25:54 | 0:25:56 | |
But before I head there, | 0:25:56 | 0:25:58 | |
I'm going to spend my final night on the Wolds | 0:25:58 | 0:26:00 | |
at one of my favourite spots on the east coast. | 0:26:00 | 0:26:04 | |
There's a great view, which I'm going to save till morning. | 0:26:04 | 0:26:07 | |
That's it. It's the end of a long, pretty hard day | 0:26:09 | 0:26:13 | |
and I can't think of a better way to celebrate | 0:26:13 | 0:26:17 | |
than camp right up here. Fantastic. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:19 | |
Wow. It is the east coast. Couldn't see this last night. | 0:26:39 | 0:26:43 | |
It's beautiful. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:45 | |
And sheep. Good morning! | 0:26:45 | 0:26:48 | |
SHEEP BLEATS | 0:26:48 | 0:26:49 | |
Has to be THE perfect place to wake up in the morning. | 0:26:52 | 0:26:55 | |
I've camped close to the RSPB reserve at Bempton Cliffs. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:02 | |
At the height of the breeding season, | 0:27:02 | 0:27:05 | |
there's 250,000 sea birds here. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:07 | |
They call it a "seabird city", | 0:27:07 | 0:27:09 | |
and these chalk cliffs are its skyscrapers. | 0:27:09 | 0:27:13 | |
I can see the end of my walk, just around the corner. | 0:27:13 | 0:27:16 | |
And at last, I can see what I've been walking on for all these miles. | 0:27:16 | 0:27:19 | |
The chalk that is the whole bedrock | 0:27:19 | 0:27:21 | |
and underlays the complete Wolds Way. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:23 | |
It's terrific to be here. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:25 | |
Filey is a fitting end to a great walk. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:30 | |
It's not the biggest of Yorkshire's seaside resorts, | 0:27:30 | 0:27:33 | |
but it is one of the prettiest. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:36 | |
When the railways arrived in the 1840s, | 0:27:36 | 0:27:38 | |
Victorian holiday-makers flocked here, building these grand villas. | 0:27:38 | 0:27:43 | |
Today, Filey remains timeless and popular. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:47 | |
The walk ends just outside the town on Filey Brigg, | 0:27:48 | 0:27:52 | |
a dramatic spit of land that juts into the North Sea. | 0:27:52 | 0:27:56 | |
Well, that's it. My walk is over. | 0:27:59 | 0:28:02 | |
It's almost 80 miles from the Humber Estuary to the North Sea, | 0:28:02 | 0:28:06 | |
here at Filey Brigg. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:08 | |
And, you know, some hikes can be just sort of tests of endurance, | 0:28:08 | 0:28:11 | |
but I found it accessible, easy, surprising. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:15 | |
There's something great around every single corner. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:19 | |
So if I can encourage you to do one thing, | 0:28:19 | 0:28:21 | |
it's go and take a walk on the Wold side. | 0:28:21 | 0:28:24 | |
And I think you'll find it every bit as great as I did. | 0:28:24 | 0:28:27 |