Lledrod, Ceredigion Olion: Palu am Hanes


Lledrod, Ceredigion

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-My name's Dr Iestyn Jones. Some

-of you might know me as an actor.

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-I'm passionate

-about archaeology and history...

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-..which has led me

-to obtain a doctorate in the field.

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-For more than 10 years, I've worked

-as a professional archaeologist.

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-Throughout this series, I'll visit

-sites up and down the country...

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-..that have never been excavated

-before to uncover Wales' history.

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-This week,

-we're in Lledrod, Ceredigion.

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-There's an abundance of roads

-in this area.

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-Talsarn, Bwlch y Sarnau...

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-..Sarnau Mawr.

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-But we'll be searching for a road

-that's even older than those.

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-Sarn Helen.

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-It was a road which connected North

-and South Wales in the Roman era.

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-Near the east coast of Wales,

-some 10 miles below Aberystwyth...

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-..is the village of Lledrod.

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-Amid the beauty

-of the Ceredigion countryside...

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-..is a wealth of history

-spanning many centuries.

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-Somewhere beneath these fields

-is a Roman road...

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-..which was built

-70 years after Christ's birth...

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-..almost 2,000 years ago.

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-I don't know how

-such an important road has vanished.

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-But we intend to find out.

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-This is

-the first quandary of the day.

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-Where are we?

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-Lledrod in north Ceredigion,

-searching for Sarn Helen...

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-..a Roman road which ran all

-the way from Llanio to Trawscoed...

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-..in this part of the world.

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-We've an aerial photograph taken

-by the Royal Commission in 2006...

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-..as well as an old map...

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-..clearly identifying Sarn Elen.

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-But we need to

-pinpoint it accurately.

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-We think we know where it is.

-Let's find out.

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-To the south

-is the fort of Bremia...

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-..home to a legion

-of Spanish soldiers.

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-To the north of our site

-is the fort of Trawscoed...

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-..where 800 soldiers were based.

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-It was discovered in 1959.

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-Our excavation site

-stands in the middle.

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-This story is very personal to me.

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-During my childhood

-I used to play in Trawscoed...

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-..which is a few miles

-in that direction.

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-My mother used to work for

-the Ministry of Agriculture.

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-In the summer,

-when the place was empty...

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-..we children wandered around

-and played in the forest...

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-..or played tennis.

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-Back then, I didn't know there was

-a Roman fort beneath my feet.

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-It was something

-I learnt later in life.

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-The fort

-has already been excavated...

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-..and more information

-has been gleaned.

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-I was brought up in a village

-called Llanfihangel y Creuddyn...

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-..where the name Sarnau...

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-..is derived from Sarn Helen...

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-..the road which leads

-from one fort to the other.

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-Archaeologists don't know exactly

-where Sarn Helen lies in this area.

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-There are several possible sites...

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-..though no-one can agree

-on a specific location.

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-I'm trying to get a head start

-on the excavation work...

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-..by scanning the site

-with a metal detector...

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-..to see

-if there's anything of interest.

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-The machine itself might displace

-something and then we'd lose it.

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-If we find something, we can

-mark its location, just in case.

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-OK, you'll have to start again now.

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-I have to make it fun

-at the same time.

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-That's enough playing around,

-it's time to dig the first trench.

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-Our experienced team includes Jerry

-Bond and Erika Guttmann-Bond...

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-..who will assist me

-during the excavation.

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-The first trench will be dug where

-a dry patch of grass appeared...

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-..in the aerial photograph

-taken in the summer of 2006.

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-Summer -

-you know, that long, dry spell.

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-The complete opposite

-of today's weather...

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-..but never mind,

-I'm enjoying myself.

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-We've just started

-excavating the site.

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-There's a big difference already,

-which is very encouraging.

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-This is solid

-and contains lots of stones.

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-It's obviously grit

-that's been put there for a purpose.

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-I can't judge this by itself.

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-I'd have to see what's on

-the other side of the trench.

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-There's clay over here,

-and in this cross-section...

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-..there are no stones at all

-in these layers.

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-There's a marked difference

-between what's here...

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-..and this portion here,

-which is hopefully the road.

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-While the excavation continues...

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-..come and join me

-in the Land Rover.

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-This is the way

-the Romans built roads.

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-There wasn't one specific way...

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-..but people think there was.

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-It's believed that they had

-two ditches like that...

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-..and some sort of elevation...

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-..and the soil on the other side.

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-The soil goes on the top.

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-Large stones go here...

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-..and sometimes

-there's gravel on top of it.

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-It's compressed like that.

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-The purpose of the ditches either

-side was to hold the rainwater...

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-..so that it wouldn't freeze

-and degrade the surface of the road.

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-Of course, they had other ways

-of building roads elsewhere.

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-In Italy, they used large stones

-that were more or less slabs.

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-They create a dramatic entrance

-into a city or town.

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-Here in Wales...

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-..we wouldn't expect to see

-such roads in mountainous areas.

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-We'd expect something

-resembling this apple tart.

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-Layers of stones,

-stone on the bottom, gravel...

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-..and large stones on the surface.

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-I'd like to find

-a ditch somewhere here...

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-..because we could

-remove the earth...

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-..and find stuff we can date.

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-Another thing worth noting

-is that the Romans...

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-..buried the dead at the roadside,

-but usually it was next to a fort.

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-I'm not expecting to find

-a skeleton in the countryside.

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-But you never know!

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-Despite the rain,

-this trench looks very promising...

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-..though things

-are unclear at the moment.

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-We've extended

-this side of the trench...

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-..because it's hard to tell

-what's been happening.

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-There are different layers

-in the clay.

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-You can see that

-from the area Erika's transected.

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-By extending it, we can see

-the layers are the same...

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-..as if we're looking at a plan

-rather than a cross-section.

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-We'd expect to see a ditch

-on this side of a Roman road.

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-There's no sign of one as yet...

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-..but we'll have a

-better understanding of the geology.

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-We're going to extend the entire

-trench, lengthways and widthways.

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-Off we go then.

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-While Colin widens the trench,

-we'd better get out of the way.

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-While earth's being moved, it's

-discussion time for archaeologists.

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-There are a number of reasons

-for extending the trench.

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-A wider trench

-makes working within it easier.

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-It can also provide us with

-a more comprehensive cross-section.

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-At the moment, the compressed stones

-suggest a road's surface.

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-Though there are no obvious gutters

-to be seen on either side...

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-..the surrounding land

-is very absorbent...

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-..which suggests gutters weren't

-always required in the uplands.

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-In the meantime,

-we've erected measuring poles...

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-..following the direction

-of the road.

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-I intend excavating a second trench

-on the other side of the field...

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-..to see if the road continues.

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-It will be excavated here...

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-..to the south

-of the first trench...

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-..where there's

-nothing obvious to see.

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-We've just opened this trench.

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-The geology is different in here.

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-The clay that was obvious

-in the other isn't as obvious here.

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-It's lower down.

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-This sandy grit, which lies

-beneath the clay over there...

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-..is higher up in this one,

-so the geology's different.

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-But you'd expect that because

-it's at the bottom of a hill...

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-..and the colluvium

-would've washed down.

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-Stones are beginning to appear...

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-..in the soil further up here.

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-That noise indicates

-that there's something there.

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-That's where

-we'd expect the road to be.

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-We'll find out shortly.

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-The gravel is starting to emerge.

-It looks promising.

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-It looks promising to me, at least.

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-After the break,

-I promise to show you the way!

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-Welcome back to Lledrod.

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-As you can see,

-the road is beginning to emerge.

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-I've started to open another trench

-at the other end of the field.

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-At the moment,

-the plan is to extend the trench.

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-We've just cleaned this, and the

-soil is a little darker this end...

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-..than it is on the other.

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-This might indicate a ditch,

-usually found next to a Roman road.

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-Or the geology

-might be a little different.

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-It needs explaining.

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-Colin's going to remove

-a bit more of the earth.

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-Behind me is Amelia, who's scanning

-the surface with a metal detector.

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-Amelia excavated part of

-the same road in Trawscoed...

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-..near the Roman fort

-a couple of miles in that direction.

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-She found nails

-on the surface of the road.

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-They could be nails

-from Roman shoes.

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-Hobnails, which are frequent finds.

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-She's doing a quick inspection

-to see if there's anything here.

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-While Amelia's

-scanning the second trench...

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-..I've come

-a couple of miles south of the site.

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-I'm here

-at Llwyn Merch Gwilym Farm...

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-..for the following reason.

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-Sarn Helen nowadays

-is as a modern, straight road...

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-..with vehicles travelling on it...

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-..ending in the corner

-beyond the trees.

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-But over here...

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-..where our trenches are located...

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-..Sarn Helen,

-as we believe it to be, re-emerges.

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-The quickest way of getting

-from one place to the other...

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-..is somewhere beneath my feet

-and definitely in this field.

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-We'd expect to find Sarn Helen

-running through here.

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-But for some reason, it doesn't.

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-Why can it no longer be seen?

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-From the air,

-it's possible to see this road...

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-..forming a straight line

-through the countryside.

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-As people move to the country,

-modern roads have to adapt...

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-..and deviate from time to time.

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-As we reach where I'm standing now,

-the modern road veers to the left...

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-..towards the main road, but if we

-follow the original road...

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-..we'd reach our excavation site.

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-Now that we've found a road

-in our trenches...

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-..it's very likely that we're

-uncovering a part of Sarn Helen.

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-I'd better get back to the site.

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-I've not had a cuppa for half an

-hour. I bet the biscuits have gone.

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-While I've been down there...

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-..Erika has been very busy

-digging up this road...

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-..that is incredibly hard.

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-This shows

-how the Romans built their roads.

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-The layers are fairly clear.

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-This is the earth that has

-washed down over the centuries...

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-..after the road was utilized.

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-So this is the earth

-and this here is a greyish layer.

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-It's very, very hard.

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-Interestingly,

-beneath this hard layer...

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-..are stones like this.

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-These have

-obviously come from a local quarry.

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-It's hard to imagine people

-transporting these from far away.

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-Here they are. This is the type

-of road we're dealing with.

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-It's solid.

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-It's remarkable to think that a road

-built almost 2,000 years ago...

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-..remains intact.

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-I could almost drive a car

-over the surface of it.

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-It's testament

-to the Romans' skill and expertise.

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-I'm here at the second trench,

-the road is over there.

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-What we've been looking for...

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-..in both trenches

-is a ditch within a ditch.

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-That's the road.

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-Usually, there was a ditch

-each side of the road...

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-..to prevent water from settling

-on the surface, causing it to erode.

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-It's quite possible

-that there's a ditch here.

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-It requires careful inspection.

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-There are differences

-in the soil quality and its colour.

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-It looks grey here,

-indicating the surface of the road.

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-It then turns into

-a brownish colour...

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-..and here, at the side.

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-What I'm looking for

-in the trench...

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-..are small pieces of charcoal.

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-One way of differentiating

-between natural geology...

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-..where there has been

-no human intervention...

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-..and geology where the earth

-has been excavated and so on...

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-..is small pieces of charcoal

-that will help date this road.

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-There's an obvious difference

-between natural earth...

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-..and farmed earth.

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-It's possible

-that there was a ditch here.

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-There's only one way to find out.

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-We'll take a cross-section of it...

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-..and analyse a soil sample

-so that we can date it.

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-Why does the road exist here?

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-It connected two Roman forts.

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-But why did they exist?

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-We might find a clue at a site

-which predates Roman times.

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-In a powerful stronghold overlooking

-Lledrod in the Trawscoed Valley...

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-..is the Gaer Fawr hill-fort.

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-From the air, it's possible to see

-the embankments and ditches...

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-..which surround the hill-fort.

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-They've been carved by hand

-from solid stone.

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-The size and scale of the site

-is astounding.

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-It would've dominated

-the entire area during the Iron Age.

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-This was the stronghold of the

-Ordovices before the Roman invasion.

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-Fierce battles

-took place during this era.

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-More than likely, Trawscoed

-hill-fort was built nearby...

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-..so that Roman soldiers

-could control this area.

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-They were merciless, and after

-beating the Welsh into submission...

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-..some of the natives

-were forced into slavery.

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-It's possible

-that it was these Welsh slaves...

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-..who built Sarn Helen...

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-..under the strict supervision

-of the Romans.

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-While Debbie

-was cleaning the road...

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-..she found a small piece of metal.

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-It's rounded and very small.

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-It looks

-as though it could be a nail...

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-..that has broken.

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-In the past, hobnails

-from Roman shoes have been found.

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-They sometimes became slack

-and fell on the ground.

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-It's possible that's what it is.

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-An expert will have to

-verify it, of course...

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-..as with all things like this...

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-..but well done.

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-It's the first thing we've uncovered

-from this trench. Brilliant.

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-Part of a nail

-from a Roman's shoe...

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-..that hasn't seen daylight

-for 2,000 years.

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-This will be recorded while we

-carry on with the excavation work.

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-Here we are again.

-The weather is horrendous.

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-The wind and rain

-make it all incredibly miserable.

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-Archaeologists

-don't do it for the weather.

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-We certainly don't do it

-for the money.

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-You certainly

-have to be a bit mad to do it.

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-But the forecast

-is better for this afternoon.

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-I hope so! This rain is unforgiving.

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-At the other end of the trench,

-the team has to clear the rainwater.

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-At least it proves

-that the road's surface works.

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-Thank you very much!

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-I'll move to the second trench,

-where I'll be left in peace.

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-Trench number two.

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-The weather

-is the same as it was up there.

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-Wind and rain, but there's

-more shelter the deeper down I go.

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-The lower, the better

-until I'm almost lying down...

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-..and then I'll hide

-for the rest of the day.

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-Maybe not.

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-I've found

-the side of the road here.

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-There's a large stone at the side

-similar to a revetment stone...

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-..to protect the road.

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-I'm hoping to find

-the side of the ditch...

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-..which comes down here

-and up that side.

0:19:450:19:49

-I'll see it

-in the transection of this trench.

0:19:490:19:55

-It'll become clearer

-once I tidy this area.

0:19:550:19:58

-With just one afternoon left,

-the first trench looks amazing.

0:19:580:20:03

-Up here we see the clay rising...

0:20:030:20:07

-..and suddenly there's a change

-in the colour and level.

0:20:070:20:11

-This is where the road begins.

0:20:110:20:13

-Here are the large stones

-at the side of the road.

0:20:130:20:18

-We've graded it in steps

-to make it more noticeable...

0:20:190:20:22

-..so we can get a clear picture

-of the transection...

0:20:220:20:26

-..and the way

-the level of the road...

0:20:260:20:28

-..rises and falls on the other side.

0:20:290:20:33

-It reveals itself now.

0:20:330:20:36

-It's clearly a Roman road.

0:20:360:20:41

-These three days have flown by.

0:20:440:20:47

-It's been a special experience

-for me, despite the elements.

0:20:470:20:51

-Now the excavation work is over,

-it's time to record the data.

0:20:520:20:56

-The location of the trenches,

-every layer of earth...

0:20:570:21:00

-..and every piece of charcoal.

0:21:000:21:03

-From the aerial photograph,

-we've managed to see and feel...

0:21:030:21:07

-..an important part

-of this area's history.

0:21:070:21:10

-Before I leave, I visit

-a field north of the site...

0:21:100:21:14

-..which overlooks

-this picturesque valley.

0:21:140:21:18

-To the north

-of our excavation site...

0:21:220:21:27

-..is this vantage point...

0:21:270:21:29

-..where it's possible

-to see the Ystwyth Valley...

0:21:290:21:33

-..in the distance over there.

0:21:330:21:36

-Gaer Fawr, an Iron Age hill-fort...

0:21:360:21:42

-..is in

-a prominent position over there.

0:21:420:21:45

-Our road would've stretched from

-Llanio, a Roman fort and baths...

0:21:450:21:50

-..all the way through our trenches

-across this hill...

0:21:500:21:55

-..past Gaer Fawr...

0:21:550:21:58

-..towards

-the Roman fort of Trawscoed.

0:21:580:22:02

-The road would've connected

-Llanio and Carmarthen...

0:22:020:22:06

-..to Caernarfon in the north...

0:22:060:22:09

-..straight through our trenches,

-down through the valley...

0:22:090:22:13

-..and onwards towards North Wales.

0:22:130:22:16

-It's remarkable to think that men...

0:22:160:22:19

-..built a road connecting South and

-North Wales such a long time ago.

0:22:190:22:24

-Large parts of this road

-still remain intact.

0:22:240:22:27

-The next time you travel along

-a long, straight road in Wales...

0:22:270:22:31

-..it might possibly be a Roman road.

0:22:310:22:34

-It's now time

-to bury our trenches...

0:22:350:22:37

-..and shield this special part

-of Sarn Helen from the elements.

0:22:370:22:42

-I'm not at all sad.

0:22:420:22:44

-One of the things

-I wanted to do as a child...

0:22:440:22:47

-..was discover

-a piece of Sarn Helen, a Roman road.

0:22:480:22:53

-I've had the opportunity to do that,

-so I've realized a lifelong dream.

0:22:530:22:58

-But do you know what?

0:22:580:23:00

-I have lots of dreams...

0:23:010:23:03

-..and there are many other sites

-I want to excavate too.

0:23:030:23:07

-Off I go.

0:23:070:23:09

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:360:23:38

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0:23:380:23:38

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