24/07/2011 Countryfile


24/07/2011

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Wild and wonderful.

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The Yorkshire Dales are a magnet for those seeking solitude.

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This is a vast rugged landscape with spectacular waterfalls and rich farmland.

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At its heart, an impressive scenic railway. Cutting a swathe through the valleys.

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They say the Wensleydale Railway line

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is the finest way to explore the Yorkshire Dales.

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So, today, I'm going to be letting the train take the strain and it's full steam all the way.

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While I'm relaxing, James is exploring a once common feature of the Dales. The hay meadow.

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Now, you might think, as diverse as hay meadows are,

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they've got nothing in comparison to say an Amazonian rainforest,

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but if you think that, you'd be wrong.

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Adam's left his farm behind to catch up with the young farmers here in Yorkshire.

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-I think they've got an eye on his job.

-It's a skill but I can see it's a passion.

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I really enjoy it and this is, apart from writing invoices, this is the best part of it!

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And as darkness falls, I'm looking to the skies.

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Chinese lanterns may look beautiful as they float across the night sky.

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But now the fire service is urging people not to use them.

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So just how dangerous are they?

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I'll be investigating. And also on Countryfile tonight.

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Jules gets his hands dirty on a farm that's going back to traditional methods.

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Blaming your tools?

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Do you know what, I bet the guy who last used this 100 years ago blamed it too!

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The imposing fells, limestone outcrops and remote settlements

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of the Yorkshire Dales make for some of the most scenic railway journeys in the country.

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Last winter, Julia was here exploring the splendour of one of the world's greatest railway lines.

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The Settle to Carlisle.

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Well, now it's my turn to experience the lesser known but equally impressive Wensleydale Railway.

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HORN BLOWS

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At 22 miles, this is the longest heritage line in Britain.

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The passenger route snakes through the Yorkshire Dales National Park

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from Leeming Bar to Redmire.

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It takes in some of the Dales' most breathtaking landscapes.

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The line closed to passengers in 1954.

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Along with hundreds of others as part of government cost-cutting.

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But all that changed back in the 1990s.

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Thanks to a group of local volunteers dedicated to restoring the route to its former glory.

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Today, it's become a much-loved part of community life.

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-Now then, Rob, how we going, all right?

-Morning.

-That looks mightily impressive in there.

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Are we almost ready to leave?

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Pressure's good. It has 90 pounds of steam. We're not far off.

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And how much coal will you shovel?

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I'll shovel, there's three-and a-half tonnes in the bunker.

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We'll use the majority of that today.

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And you do that on your own?

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-I'll do that. By hand.

-Three-and-a-half ton of coal?

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-You get a lot of exercise.

-Yeah, keeps me fit.

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And you'll be looking forward to a nice hot bath at the end of the day?

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Yeah. I won't be quite as clean after we're finished.

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Aside from the romance of the Historic Railway, the volunteers

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have a very modern ambition to bring tourists into the Dales.

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And help kick-start the local economy.

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They operate a diesel service on this line but now and again

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they take a step back in time to run a steam railway once more.

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And it's the perfect way for me to travel the line.

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From Leeming Bar to Bedale to visit a community business that has been set up alongside the railway.

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-See you later!

-Goodbye!

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The spirit of the locals and the dedication of the volunteers

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really is at the heart of this railway's success.

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And the enterprising folk have turned part of this station into a community bakery.

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Carol.

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Oh, hi there, nice to meet you!

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-All right?

-Fancy seeing you here!

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It smells absolutely gorgeous in here, doesn't it?

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Yes it does, there's nothing like real bread, is there?

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The smell of baking bread.

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I noticed this sign here, look,

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real bread made by the community for the community.

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Absolutely spot on. We've been on a long journey over the last 18 months.

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Trying to set up a community bakery.

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And this is the outcome of it which we're very proud of.

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So your bread's made here in the old station house. There really is a major connection to the rail itself.

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There is because the water mill that's ground the flour is two miles outside Bedale.

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Not far from the railway line.

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So, when they've finished grounding our flour

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the flour was loaded onto the train and it was brought in

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and unloaded at the station as it would have done years ago.

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So it's tremendous and of course local farmers have actually supplied the grain.

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For the job so, within five miles, we've got a food chain

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of growing the corn, milling it at Crayke Hall

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and then down here to bake so, we're very proud of that.

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In fact, the farmers in the area are even planning to grow an old

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traditional strain of wheat to keep the bread as authentic as possible.

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And head baker, Susie, is going to show this apprentice baker one of their specialities.

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-This bread is what, rosemary and...?

-Rosemary and black pepper.

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-Oh, right.

-It's very nice with a bit of soup and some Wensleydale cheese.

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And had you done any baking at all before this?

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No, not really. I was a care assistant before I started here.

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I really wouldn't have thought that just making bread and food

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would be this important to me but it's obviously important enough

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for me to wake up at half past four in the morning.

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Well that's the thing, it's a lot of work, isn't it?

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Just organising volunteers and getting them to arrive on time

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and training them up is work in itself

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but it just pays off so much when you see people chatting with each other and you see people.

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Like, we did a course that the high school and we took the old people

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from the old people's home where I used to work

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and they were talking to the young people.

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It was so lovely to see the two extremes of the community

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coming together and sharing experiences and learning from each other.

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-And it was just really, really nice, and that's one of the highlights so far.

-Yeah.

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At the minute, the 15 volunteers at the bakery bake

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three times a week, at around 100 loaves a time.

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But they soon hope to step up production to six days a week.

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The dough's been left to prove

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but I'm not sure it's meant to look like this.

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It does look a bit warty, but mine is exactly the same,

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so it's really not too bad. And we just...

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-..like that. There you go.

-So you just did that.

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So, you've got a 12 o'clock, a 3 o'clock, a 6 o'clock

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and a 9 o'clock, and then one in between each one as well.

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-So I did too many there.

-It's fine. It's your loaf. Do what you like.

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-I just need a bit of symmetry in there now.

-Fantastic.

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-Are you going to put your name in the middle?

-Can I do any more?

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You can put your name in if you want.

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-Maybe.

-I'm trying for an M.

-Fantastic.

-It's a bit dodgy.

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It's all right. Don't worry.

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So, we get these in the oven, and you might want to stand back,

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cos we use steam with our baking because it gives them a nice crust.

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-Great. It's a running theme, with the railway.

-Oh, yes, steam engines and everything!

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The bakery's main aim is to produce a range of good, honest, traditional loaves.

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Elderly residents of the town even submit recipes of the bread

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they used bake years ago.

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And now it's the moment of truth for my rosemary and black pepper.

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-Oh, look at these!

-The M's worked and everything!

-Yeah, look at that!

-Fantastic!

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You can take that home with you. Pop that on there.

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Thank you very much indeed. That was super. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

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Thank you very much. Great to see you.

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I tell you what, Baker by name, Baker by nature!

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I'm leaving Bedale behind to continue my journey on through the Dales.

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Next stop, the water mill that made the flour I used to bake my bread.

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Without the railway and its bakery, the mill would be nothing but a museum piece!

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And while Matt steams on ahead,

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I'm investigating a controversial new arrival to the countryside.

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If you're going to a wedding, party or even a festival this summer,

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there's a good chance you'll encounter something like this.

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Easy to see why Chinese lanterns have become a bit of a craze in this country.

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There's something rather romantic about releasing one of these

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into the night sky and watching it blow away on the wind.

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It's reckoned that 200,000 lanterns were released in the UK last year alone.

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But it's not as innocent as it might seem.

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For some, Chinese lanterns are a menace in the countryside,

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causing thousands of pounds worth of damage

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and putting the lives of animals and even people at risk.

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The big worry, of course is that they can start fires,

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but that's not the only problem.

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Huw Rowlands is a beef farmer

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and has more than 140 Red Poll cattle on his farm near Chester.

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For him, the concern is the debris the lanterns leave behind,

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and with good reason.

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Tell me what happened, Huw?

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Well, not long after Bonfire Night, a Chinese lantern had landed in

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a field with some of our cattle grazing in it.

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One of the cows picked up the remains of a Chinese lantern,

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chewed at it, swallowed part of the frame

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and eventually died about three days later, a very slow, lingering death.

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This is the actual lantern that killed her.

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You can see where she's been chewing and chewing at the frame.

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You can also see some of the very fine wire that holds

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the thing together, and that is the wire that punctured

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her oesophagus and caused her death.

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And over here is the remains of another Chinese lantern,

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-where did this one land?

-This one landed in this barn that we're in, only about two or three weeks ago.

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This one has string rather than wire holding it together, so maybe not as dangerous.

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Perhaps not quite as dangerous.

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But I would say, equally bad news, because if it had been alight when

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it landed here, the bales of straw would have gone up, this would have

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all gone up in flames and we would have lost the two bulls as well.

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And you've still got the bamboo frame there.

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And as you can see, where it's broken, it's still got a sharp point on it.

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That's enough to injure or even kill an animal,

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if they try to eat it.

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Incidents like those at the farm have led the National Farmers' Union

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to call for lanterns to be completely banned.

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And it's not the only organisation that's concerned.

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-Hello.

-Hello, come in.

-Thank you very much.

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Now, you're all members of the Cheshire Federation

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of the Women's Institute, what are your concerns about these lanterns?

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It all goes back to May 2009, when we woke up on the

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May Day Bank Holiday morning

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and found 57 of them scattered over seven fields.

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-57?!

-Yes.

-And were there animals in those fields?

-There were.

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And of course, we hadn't cut our silage at that stage,

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so we were very concerned that we'd found them all, because

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if some were still in the fields, they were going to end up in the silage.

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And what other concerns do you have about these things floating around the countryside?

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Well, the fire aspect is a great problem.

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People have had them land on their roof and set the wood

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on fire, a great deal of damage as well as danger to life and limb.

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So, what would you like to see done about these things then?

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We'd like to see them banned.

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They're banned in many countries around the world, so why not here?

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But are the risks posed really so great

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that the sale of lanterns should be stopped?

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What, for example, are the chances of them actually causing a fire.

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To stop it floating away, the lantern that you saw me launch

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at the start of this film was tethered to the ground,

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but when the wind got behind it, this happened.

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The frame, together with the burning fuel package, ripped from the rest

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of the lantern and fell straight to earth, still alight.

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But what about when they're used correctly?

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Here in West Yorkshire, the fire service was so concerned,

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they began carrying out their own research,

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in the safety of their training house.

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What will this experiment show, Chris?

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What we're trying to achieve is to see the type of heat release,

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the temperature that is coming out of the fuel package,

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and ultimately, because we're in a very controlled environment,

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we can time the length of burn of the fuel package,

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and then, see what state the fuel package is in

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when the lantern starts to come back down to earth.

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What would you like to see being done about these lanterns?

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We'd like to see people stop using these lanterns,

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some real control, some licensing,

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very much similar to the fireworks licensing.

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But people buy these and release them

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-because they look beautiful, don't they?

-People need to see beyond that

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and would they really be happy with people throwing

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a lighted piece of paper, maybe out of a car window,

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as they drove past some standing corn.

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It very much is the same outcome.

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The test clearly shows that a lantern can fall to the ground

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while it's still burning.

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And this is one reason why the Chief Fire Officers Association

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has now asked every fire-fighter in the UK

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to actively discourage their use.

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However, at the moment,

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there are no official plans to either ban or regulate Chinese lanterns.

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But some people in the industry are listening.

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So, all of these boxes contain Chinese lanterns?

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They certainly do, John.

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James Cameron, from The Glow Company,

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has sold well over 100,000 lanterns in the last couple of years.

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You're one of the main importers, aren't you, of these lanterns,

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how concerned are you about claims that they're just not safe?

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Well, we've listened to the concerns, the feedback

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and the media, and in 2009, so it's a couple of years ago now,

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we looked at the design of them

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and we looked to take all of the wire out of the lanterns

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and make them fully biodegradable in the true sense.

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But many people are still concerned about the bamboo.

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We're now looking to replace the bamboo with another material.

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But we're still working on that.

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But you can't get away from the fact that a Chinese lantern is

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a flame, in a paper bag, blowing on the wind,

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no one knows where it's going to land.

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That's true, but what we do with every Chinese lantern that we sell,

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they are all individually packaged

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and each one comes with a quite detailed set of instructions

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and we believe that if people follow these instructions, then they can be safe.

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Aren't they just purely and simply a danger?

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I think there are a lot of products on the market that can be

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dangerous if not used correctly.

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Fireworks, for example, very dangerous,

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lots of accidents every year, many, many more than Chinese lanterns.

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Chinese lanterns might seem like just a bit of fun,

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and nobody wants to be a killjoy.

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But from what we've seen, they can cause real damage.

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If one could be developed that has no wire or bamboo,

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that would significantly reduce the danger to livestock.

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But the threat of fire remains

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and it's difficult to know how that risk will ever go away.

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The Wensleydale railway is a great way to take in the beauty

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of the Yorkshire Dales, but over the years, this countryside has changed.

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Once, these fields were bursting with flowers.

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James is in the Western Dales, finding out what's being done

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to revive these traditional hay meadows.

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Hay meadows give us the best of all worlds.

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This stunning colour from a carpet of wild flowers,

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they're stuffed full of bees and butterflies, habitats, all sorts

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of wildlife, and of course,

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they're useful too, because when the time comes,

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they're cut for fodder for a whole range of different livestock.

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But they are rare.

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Here in the Dales, they were once as common as the field barns

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and dry stone walls that pepper the landscape.

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But since the Second World War,

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a staggering 98% of the UK's meadows have been lost.

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There are now just four square miles of upland hay meadows left.

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So, John, why have hay meadows become so under threat?

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Well, it is agriculture intensification.

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We've been trying to produce food more cheaply since the Second World War,

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so a lot more artificial fertilisers have gone on the grasslands.

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Most of them have been ploughed up and reseeded

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with a few productive species of grass.

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And that's just wiped out the diversity of the plants completely.

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So we have lost 98% of our hay meadows in 50 years.

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-What's this one still doing here?

-Well, in places like the Dales,

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we've been lucky enough to have a range of agri-environment schemes,

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which have paid farmers to traditionally manage the meadows.

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-So, this has been protected since about the '80s.

-Is it just gardening though?

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Are you just doing it to make it look beautiful?

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It's been scientifically proven livestock reared

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on these species-rich pastures, is better for us.

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Farmers can charge a premium price for it, so it's better for the local economy and the farmers,

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and the health benefits, the social benefits,

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getting out in the countryside, seeing these fantastic meadows

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full of flowers on a lovely sunny day.

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Now, you might think, as diverse as hay meadows are,

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they've got nothing in comparison to say,

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an Amazonian rain forest filled with exotic orchids and parasitic plants.

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But if you think that, you'd be wrong,

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because right here, in an English hay meadow, we've got a beautiful

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native orchid and right in front, yellow rattle, a parasitic plant.

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The average hay meadow has no less than 120 different plant species.

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And I'm not the only one who's come to see them.

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For a group of school children from nearby Bainbridge,

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this is the perfect place to learn about the nature on their doorstep.

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I'm dying to figure out what you're doing here, with this hula hoop!

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Oh, right, well, the idea is,

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for the children to have the opportunity to learn

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and recognise different wild flower species and hay meadow species.

0:19:200:19:24

And they are going to count each of the different species in this hoop.

0:19:240:19:28

And that will tell us how many different species there are

0:19:280:19:32

and how abundant each species is.

0:19:320:19:33

By focusing on that one patch, you really start to look in detail,

0:19:330:19:37

whereas if you walk past, it might look like a sea of green.

0:19:370:19:39

And maybe there might be some rare species in here

0:19:390:19:43

that you wouldn't see if you just walk through a meadow.

0:19:430:19:46

Particularly with those cool magnifying glasses.

0:19:460:19:48

-I want one of those!

-What you reckon that is that you've got there?

0:19:480:19:51

We've got quite a few eyebrights.

0:19:510:19:53

You'll notice, they look a little bit like little eyes. If you look

0:19:530:19:57

-on the inside, there's almost like little eyelashes painted on.

-They're beautiful.

0:19:570:20:00

They're traditionally used to treat eye complaints,

0:20:000:20:04

but I've always thought, they're so small, you'd actually have to have pretty good guys just to find them!

0:20:040:20:09

So there's this huge mix of different plants in here,

0:20:090:20:11

you're not going to find in the average lawn,

0:20:110:20:13

and it's presumably quite unusual for kids like you to see this.

0:20:130:20:16

This isn't in your playing field at school.

0:20:160:20:19

Yes, this isn't really, but we live in a beautiful place

0:20:190:20:23

and I've moved up here and I've only lived here for three years

0:20:230:20:28

and I've seen some quite astonishing stuff.

0:20:280:20:31

And they are really beautiful, these meadow flowers.

0:20:310:20:34

And it's not just the kids getting stuck in.

0:20:340:20:38

Because as a plant geek - this place is right up my street.

0:20:380:20:42

These white, frothy flower heads are from meadowsweet,

0:20:420:20:45

which as the name might suggest, tastes sweet and has this wonderful

0:20:450:20:50

kind of almondy, elderflower flavour and I think more cooks should use it.

0:20:500:20:54

But the most exciting thing is, that it's traditionally used to treat pain.

0:20:540:20:58

In fact, aspirin was originally developed on chemicals found in this.

0:20:580:21:03

It's been shown that the effects of the chemical found in it last

0:21:030:21:07

longer than aspirin and can be less harsh on your stomach.

0:21:070:21:10

But just as important as the meadow's plants,

0:21:140:21:16

is the wildlife that thrives among them.

0:21:160:21:19

Tanya, that's the biggest butterfly net I have ever seen. What have you got in there?

0:21:220:21:26

Well, not as much as I would have hoped, to be honest.

0:21:260:21:29

On a day like today, it's quite cloudy,

0:21:290:21:31

so we have quite a lot of flies that most

0:21:310:21:33

people overlook, but also, really important pollinators

0:21:330:21:36

of our meadows, we have the odd froghopper in here.

0:21:360:21:40

And quite a lot of seeds. But generally, on a meadow like this,

0:21:400:21:44

you'd expect to see butterflies such as common blue frequent the meadows.

0:21:440:21:47

We've a lot of bumblebees as well that rely heavily on these meadows.

0:21:470:21:51

Five acres of hay meadow, they say, supports one tonne of bugs,

0:21:510:21:55

-that's a serious amount of insects.

-It's amazing, you've only been flicking this around for

0:21:550:21:58

a couple of seconds and there's a good couple of hundred in there.

0:21:580:22:02

These are such tiny insects, but they're so important for the biodiversity,

0:22:020:22:07

the swallows around us today, they'll be feeding off these insects,

0:22:070:22:10

field mice, you've got the hares and rabbits that come,

0:22:100:22:14

and that, in turn, leads to foxes that predate the animals.

0:22:140:22:18

And meadows might bring less obvious benefits too.

0:22:260:22:29

Researchers from Lancaster University are investigating their impact

0:22:290:22:32

on the level of greenhouse gases, which have been blamed for global warming.

0:22:320:22:36

I'm desperate to know what this very cool garden cloche attached to a bit of kit is doing?

0:22:360:22:42

This is measuring the amount of carbon dioxide which is being given off by the meadows here.

0:22:420:22:46

What we're really interested in is knowing

0:22:460:22:49

how the different levels of management on our grasslands

0:22:490:22:52

and hay meadows is affecting the carbon balance in the systems.

0:22:520:22:54

So essentially, the results of this could be really important,

0:22:540:22:58

because so much of the UK is covered in effectively grassland.

0:22:580:23:02

The amount of carbon stored in the soil is higher

0:23:020:23:04

in the grasslands which are more traditionally managed.

0:23:040:23:07

And also, the amount of carbon dioxide leaving the system appears

0:23:070:23:10

to be less in the traditionally managed systems,

0:23:100:23:13

so we think there is scope to develop some sort of sustainable

0:23:130:23:17

management which would help with our carbon emissions in the future.

0:23:170:23:20

After nearly becoming a thing of the past,

0:23:200:23:22

the importance of the traditional hay meadow is now being recognised.

0:23:220:23:26

If efforts to revive them are successful,

0:23:260:23:29

future generations will enjoy both their beauty

0:23:290:23:32

and their contribution to the wider environment.

0:23:320:23:36

Also in the programme,

0:23:360:23:38

Adam is meeting the young farmers of the future.

0:23:380:23:42

I have been told I am the youngest female sheep shearer in the country, so...

0:23:420:23:46

Going underground, James gets kitted out for a spot of caving.

0:23:460:23:50

Going to boldly go where no ethnobotanist has been before. This isn't too bad, actually.

0:23:500:23:55

And we'll have the weather for the week ahead in the Countryfile forecast.

0:23:550:24:00

I'm on a journey through the Yorkshire Dales,

0:24:070:24:09

on the Wensleydale Railway.

0:24:090:24:11

The views are breathtaking. Along the way, I've indulged

0:24:110:24:14

in a bit of traditional bread-making at a community bakery.

0:24:140:24:17

Now it's time to see the first part of the process.

0:24:170:24:20

I'm following this little flow to Crakehall Watermill,

0:24:200:24:23

which, as Carol said back at the bakery,

0:24:230:24:25

is where the raw ingredients come from for this lovely bread,

0:24:250:24:29

which is still warm.

0:24:290:24:31

'The watermill was bought to be run as a B&B,'

0:24:310:24:34

'but hooked by the heritage in his garden,

0:24:340:24:37

'Lionel Green has spent the past year restoring it to its former glory.'

0:24:370:24:42

-Lionel, how are you doing?

-Hi, Matt.

-What a place this is!

0:24:420:24:45

-And what a beautiful sound.

-Yes.

-It's incredible.

0:24:450:24:48

One watermill, very old watermill, in action here.

0:24:480:24:52

-The whole process starts over at the river?

-Yes.

0:24:520:24:55

-Quite a long way up there?

-Yes, out across the road there, the river,

0:24:550:25:00

we take our supply. Water feeds into the wheelhouse.

0:25:000:25:04

The transfer of energy, the water drive,

0:25:040:25:07

through this main shaft up through here to the crown wheel.

0:25:070:25:11

I've got the finished product here.

0:25:110:25:13

-This was my handiwork this morning.

-Well done!

0:25:130:25:16

But this has been around a lot longer than the community bakery.

0:25:160:25:21

You must have been delighted to hear this was going to be sparked?

0:25:210:25:24

Yes. It's a wonderful piece of heritage.

0:25:240:25:28

This mill stands on the site of a mill mentioned in Domesday,

0:25:280:25:32

so got a lot of history.

0:25:320:25:34

It was really good news that the ladies down at Bedale

0:25:340:25:38

were going to set up, and therefore we see crop to crust.

0:25:380:25:44

It's some place this, I tell you. Thanks for showing us around.

0:25:440:25:48

-You're welcome.

-See you later on.

-Thank you.

-Happy milling!

0:25:480:25:52

Lionel isn't the only one who's going back in time.

0:25:520:25:55

Jules has been to meet the farmer where it really is a case of

0:25:550:25:58

out with the new, in with the old.

0:25:580:26:01

I'm east of the Dales, near Harrogate, on Thorpe Hill Farm.

0:26:010:26:05

At 111 acres, it's a small mixed farm and home to Steve Newlove.

0:26:050:26:11

Recently, the family business was facing ruin

0:26:110:26:14

after a company Steve was in partnership with went bust.

0:26:140:26:18

Overnight, 95% of his income vanished.

0:26:180:26:20

In order to save his livelihood, Steve's had to come up with

0:26:200:26:24

a cunning OLD plan to breathe new life back into this place.

0:26:240:26:28

For this farm, going back in time could prove to be the way forward.

0:26:280:26:33

The grand plan is to turn back the clocks and start working the land

0:26:330:26:37

19th-century style.

0:26:370:26:39

To fund it, Steve auctioned off all his modern farm equipment.

0:26:390:26:44

60, have all done? At five. 60?

0:26:440:26:47

I'm feeling really weird.

0:26:470:26:50

On this field, I'm selling off part of my family

0:26:500:26:53

that I know all the quirks and how to use all these different things

0:26:530:26:59

and I'm thinking that on Monday morning,

0:26:590:27:01

it's all going to be different.

0:27:010:27:03

For Steve, the conveniences of modern mechanisation are no more.

0:27:030:27:07

No big tractors, no fancy gadgets.

0:27:070:27:10

Just good old-fashioned farming basics.

0:27:100:27:13

-Steve?

-Jules?

-How are you?

-I'm good. How are you?

-Nice to see you.

0:27:130:27:17

-Have you become a repository for anybody clearing out a barn?

-Yeah.

0:27:170:27:21

This really paints the picture as to what you're trying to achieve here.

0:27:210:27:25

You really are going back in time with this.

0:27:250:27:28

I've always said I was born 100 years too late.

0:27:280:27:31

For me, the farming part is the connection with the land,

0:27:310:27:34

which you get out of the way when you're in your air-conditioned cab.

0:27:340:27:37

You're sat away from your crops, really.

0:27:370:27:40

I want to work amongst it and get back to real farming.

0:27:400:27:43

Your neighbours must be thinking, "He's nuts."

0:27:430:27:46

They do. They think I'm absolutely bonkers! Absolutely bonkers!

0:27:460:27:50

'Only time will tell whether Steve actually is bonkers,'

0:27:500:27:54

but his intention is to run the farm as a working museum,

0:27:540:27:58

demonstrating traditional farming methods.

0:27:580:28:01

If anyone knows a thing or two about these, it's Frank Atkinson,

0:28:010:28:05

who's been farming for over 70 years.

0:28:050:28:07

Frank? How are you, sir? Very nice to meet you. This is Steve.

0:28:080:28:13

-Steve, hi, pleased to meet you.

-Pleased to meet you.

0:28:130:28:15

He's the brave soul trying to transform this place.

0:28:150:28:18

-Shall we have a look around?

-Yes, please.

0:28:180:28:21

When you started out on farms,

0:28:240:28:26

this presumably was the sort of thing you would use?

0:28:260:28:29

Well, this is a potato plough. This would be used

0:28:290:28:32

at this time of the year, when, for the early potatoes especially,

0:28:320:28:38

to not bruise them and to lift them to the surface,

0:28:380:28:43

out of the ridge, and then pick them by hand.

0:28:430:28:46

But I'm sure as a young man working on the farms that you did,

0:28:460:28:51

you must have longed for the day

0:28:510:28:53

when everything became more mechanised and easier and quicker?

0:28:530:28:57

-And he's going the other way!

-Yeah, well, that's right.

0:28:570:29:00

We didn't appreciate mechanisation cos it just crept up on us.

0:29:000:29:06

And so we didn't appreciate what it was going to do.

0:29:060:29:09

But to go backwards, you do appreciate what you're going to do.

0:29:090:29:13

-He's got his hands full, hasn't he?

-Yeah, it's hard work, yes.

0:29:130:29:17

'And that hard work is going to take some serious horsepower,

0:29:170:29:21

'and I mean with hooves, not tyres.

0:29:210:29:23

'Under the watchful eye of shire horse expert Rodney Greenwood,

0:29:230:29:27

'Steve needs to learn how to handle his new steeds, Ruby and Audra.

0:29:270:29:32

'With them, he can expect to plough through an acre of land a day.

0:29:320:29:35

'With a tractor, he could do about 17 acres.

0:29:350:29:38

'That's about as far away from intensive farming as you can get.

0:29:380:29:42

'And I suppose the cost of carrots is cheaper than a gallon of diesel.'

0:29:420:29:46

Who needs air-conditioning when you've got this to go to work in?

0:29:480:29:52

'But for some jobs, you need to rely on manpower, not horsepower.'

0:29:520:29:55

Steve's plan is to eventually turn this field of maize

0:29:550:29:59

into a maze. Amazing!

0:29:590:30:00

Well, it's quite a big area. How big is this maze going to be?

0:30:000:30:05

This is about nine-and-a-half acres, this field.

0:30:050:30:08

We've got to cut a path around nine-and-a-half acres with these?

0:30:080:30:12

Yeah!

0:30:120:30:13

I do think we need a bit of a sharpener

0:30:170:30:21

-just to get this working properly.

-So, blaming your tools!

0:30:210:30:24

Do you know what, I bet the guy that last used this 100 years ago

0:30:240:30:27

blamed it too!

0:30:270:30:30

'Aside from attractions such as as the maze,

0:30:320:30:35

'Steve's keen for the farm to be part of village life again.

0:30:350:30:39

'He's going to encourage the locals in to help out,

0:30:390:30:41

'paying them with produce from the farm.

0:30:410:30:44

'But if this is going to be a success,

0:30:440:30:46

'he's got to keep his workforce happy.

0:30:460:30:48

'Top of the list, Ruby and Audra.'

0:30:480:30:51

Lovely.

0:30:510:30:53

It's a nice way to end my visit here, I have to say,

0:30:530:30:57

treating them to a welcoming gift of apple. Come on, girls!

0:30:570:31:01

-Come on, girls!

-First night in their new home.

0:31:010:31:04

It is. Sort of five years in the planning and they're here at last.

0:31:040:31:08

And when are you going to do what Rodney did?

0:31:080:31:11

When are you first going to tack them up and get out there?

0:31:110:31:14

I'm in at the deep end now,

0:31:140:31:16

-so it's going to be tomorrow morning.

-It's going to have to be!

0:31:160:31:19

'There's no doubt that Steve's got a long road ahead,

0:31:190:31:22

'and there's no going back now.

0:31:220:31:24

'Although for this farm, the past actually IS the future.'

0:31:240:31:29

This week, Adam is on the road,

0:31:320:31:34

catching up with a couple of aspiring young farmers

0:31:340:31:36

who've got their eyes on his job.

0:31:360:31:39

Last year, John met Gareth Barlow in Yorkshire.

0:31:420:31:45

At just 20 years old, he was full of ambition for a career in farming.

0:31:450:31:50

But without any land, he was keeping his sheep in his friend's garden.

0:31:500:31:54

What's your chances of having your own farm?

0:31:540:31:57

They may be stacked against me

0:31:570:31:59

but I'll do everything to overcome them and to get it somehow, somewhere.

0:31:590:32:03

Since then, I've taken a keen interest in his progress.

0:32:030:32:06

-You see?

-Yes.

-She's a well-bodied sheep, isn't she?

0:32:060:32:12

With the average age of a farmer close to 60,

0:32:120:32:14

it's great to see young people coming into the business.

0:32:140:32:17

Not being from a farming background, he's struggled to get started.

0:32:170:32:20

-Come on!

-But when I saw him last,

0:32:200:32:23

the Castle Howard estate in Yorkshire had agreed

0:32:230:32:25

to let him have some land to keep his sheep on.

0:32:250:32:27

And he's had his flock of Hebrideans for just over a year now.

0:32:270:32:31

I'm keen to see how he's getting on.

0:32:310:32:33

-Gareth, hi.

-Hi, pleased to see you.

-Lovely to see you.

0:32:360:32:39

-So how's it all going?

-Busy, really busy.

0:32:390:32:41

Booming, I suppose is the best way of putting it. Hard work but booming.

0:32:410:32:44

-And how many Hebrideans have you got now?

-At the moment, about 130.

0:32:440:32:48

-Goodness me! So you've more than trebled in size?

-Aye.

0:32:480:32:50

It's been a busy few months. Had a few more, in fairness,

0:32:500:32:53

but obviously there's the butchery side to keep happy

0:32:530:32:56

so we've gone down. Peaked at about 150.

0:32:560:32:59

Now this is a difference spot to where I saw the Hebrideans last,

0:32:590:33:01

so is your land area growing?

0:33:010:33:03

Yeah, we've moved on to a bigger area,

0:33:030:33:05

about 35 acres here and there's 10 in a separate site

0:33:050:33:08

elsewhere in a couple of smaller paddocks.

0:33:080:33:10

Whereas when we were last here, it was two-acre paddocks everywhere.

0:33:100:33:13

A lot of fuel, a lot of driving.

0:33:130:33:14

We've got some more condensed units which are a lot more

0:33:140:33:17

economical to run.

0:33:170:33:18

And how's it going, then, with your customers?

0:33:180:33:20

I know you were selling direct to the restaurants.

0:33:200:33:23

When you last came I had one customer,

0:33:230:33:25

just the farm shop at the castle. Castle Howard.

0:33:250:33:27

Now there's another five restaurants down in London,

0:33:270:33:29

four or five in Yorkshire as well.

0:33:290:33:31

So your dream is still a reasonable size farm of your own?

0:33:310:33:35

Gets more passionate every day. A bigger dream every day.

0:33:350:33:38

And slowly, slowly another step towards it each day.

0:33:380:33:41

At this time of year,

0:33:450:33:46

Gareth sends five or six of his lambs to the abattoir each week.

0:33:460:33:50

We're rounding them all up so he can select which ones are ready to go.

0:33:520:33:56

So you've got a mixture of males and females in here, have you?

0:33:570:34:00

It's a mixture of the two.

0:34:000:34:03

Obviously some of the females are kept for breeding but maybe

0:34:030:34:05

some of the smaller framed ones we won't keep for breeding.

0:34:050:34:08

They won't give birth as easily

0:34:080:34:09

so they will be perfect for the lamb trade.

0:34:090:34:11

Lots of people think of lamb for the table as young lamb,

0:34:110:34:15

but these look like they're about a year old?

0:34:150:34:17

There's many definitions of what lamb is

0:34:170:34:18

and I think it's dependent on the breed as much as anything.

0:34:180:34:21

Hebrideans don't put on the weight as quickly, so only after a year

0:34:210:34:25

old do they show the properties of lamb that's fit for the table.

0:34:250:34:28

I think that's the definition. It's a lamb that's fit for the table.

0:34:280:34:31

Before then, they're too lean, they haven't had time to mature.

0:34:310:34:34

They look very well, Gareth.

0:34:340:34:36

You've done very well with them. So just go in and feel them.

0:34:360:34:39

I suppose you've got the experience.

0:34:390:34:41

So tell me what you're looking for cos you don't want them too fat, do you?

0:34:410:34:45

You don't want them too fat. Nobody likes an inch of fat over their chops.

0:34:450:34:50

She's a well fleshed ewe, isn't she?

0:34:500:34:51

She's got the perfect amount of back cover.

0:34:510:34:54

You can still feel the spine across the top

0:34:540:34:56

but it's not too defined.

0:34:560:34:58

-Take her out?

-I would take that one out.

0:34:580:34:59

-I shall pop her... Move these ones back. Come on.

-Go on, girls.

0:35:020:35:06

-It must have been quite a steep learning curve for you.

-Yes.

0:35:060:35:11

I've not got someone in the family that can teach me how to select lambs.

0:35:110:35:14

But doing this every week,

0:35:140:35:16

you do start to build up the skill set you need to select the best ones.

0:35:160:35:20

-It's a skill but I can see it's a passion.

-Yes, I really enjoy it.

0:35:200:35:24

This is, apart from writing invoices, the best part of it!

0:35:240:35:28

I'm really impressed with the progress that Gareth has made over the past year.

0:35:300:35:35

Not only does he raise and butcher the lambs himself,

0:35:350:35:38

he does the meat deliveries, too.

0:35:380:35:40

Gareth recently drummed up some new business at an award-winning

0:35:400:35:45

restaurant just half an hour away.

0:35:450:35:47

-Hi, Gareth. How are you doing?

-Not too bad. Adam, Tommy.

0:35:520:35:54

Nice to meet you. Let's have a look at this delivery.

0:35:540:35:58

-So what have you got, then, Gareth?

-We've got your four breasts there.

0:36:010:36:04

-Fantastic.

-And then you've got your four loins.

-Fantastic.

0:36:040:36:08

And then the shoulder.

0:36:080:36:11

That looks like some great stuff.

0:36:110:36:14

Why is it you like Hebridean lambs so much?

0:36:140:36:17

Actually, when I first met Gareth, I'd never heard of Hebridean lamb.

0:36:170:36:20

But what really struck me was how he said it was over a year old,

0:36:200:36:23

such a slow-growing animal. It's just a fantastic colour.

0:36:230:36:27

You look at that dark, rich red and you can tell it's lived on grass for its whole life

0:36:270:36:30

and it's lived for over a year old so it's had a good life.

0:36:300:36:33

You're using quite a lot of unusual cuts in the restaurant.

0:36:330:36:37

How does that work?

0:36:370:36:38

I think it works really well.

0:36:380:36:39

It's a great selling point when customers see they can try

0:36:390:36:42

everything when normally they just have a rack of lamb or something.

0:36:420:36:45

It's great to utilise all the cuts. There's a lot of flavour.

0:36:450:36:48

-And if you'd like to try some?

-Great.

0:36:480:36:50

-So here's the dish.

-Wow, what a work of art.

0:36:520:36:55

-So tell me the different bits.

-So we've got the loin here.

0:36:550:36:59

We've got the square of shoulder, we've got the belly,

0:36:590:37:02

with breadcrumbs, then we've got the neck fillet, and we'll just

0:37:020:37:05

serve that with some peas, some bacon and some Jersey Royal potatoes.

0:37:050:37:09

-And it is it popular?

-Yeah, absolutely.

0:37:090:37:11

-I think it's the best-selling dish.

-Is it? Can't wait. Let's tuck in.

0:37:110:37:16

-Go for a bit of a shoulder.

-That is really lovely.

0:37:170:37:22

-Wow! That's heaven on a plate. Thank you so much. Fantastic.

-Cheers.

0:37:250:37:31

Keep the orders coming in.

0:37:310:37:34

It's always encouraging to meet young people who enjoy farming

0:37:380:37:42

and are finding ways of making a living from the land.

0:37:420:37:44

I'm on my way now to meet someone who's even younger than Gareth,

0:37:440:37:48

but she's just as enthusiastic about making a future from farming.

0:37:480:37:51

At 18 years old, Pam Simpson is already a qualified shearer.

0:37:550:38:00

But before meeting agricultural lecturer Charles Szabo,

0:38:000:38:03

she'd never worked with sheep.

0:38:030:38:05

-You must be Pam, the shearer.

-I am, hello.

-How are you?

0:38:090:38:12

-I'm fine, thank you.

-Tell me, how on earth did you get into shearing?

0:38:120:38:16

Last year, Charles said to me,

0:38:160:38:18

would you like to go on a sheep-shearing course?

0:38:180:38:20

From not being in a sheep farming background, I um-ed and ah-ed a bit.

0:38:200:38:24

I decided to it as an extra skill, and the moment I went on my first

0:38:240:38:27

accredited course and my first sheep, I fell in love with it straight away.

0:38:270:38:30

Well done, you. It's not that common for women to be shearing, is it?

0:38:300:38:34

No, not really. But agricultural courses at agricultural colleges, there are

0:38:340:38:38

a number of women on them and there's no reason why they can't shear.

0:38:380:38:42

Women are better at livestock anyhow, certainly when younger.

0:38:420:38:45

-It is very much about technique, isn't it?

-Definitely.

0:38:450:38:48

You need to have some sort of strength

0:38:480:38:50

but 10% is cutting the wool and 90% is handling the sheep.

0:38:500:38:54

And what sort of speed are you doing now? What have you got up to?

0:38:540:38:57

Between three of us, we can get about 500-plus done in two days.

0:38:570:39:01

-So you're pretty quick.

-Quick enough.

-Are you making a living, then?

0:39:010:39:04

Yeah. I juggle between college and shearing,

0:39:040:39:07

but all my spare time's taken up by shearing. That's all I do now.

0:39:070:39:10

I have been told I am the youngest female sheep shearer in the country.

0:39:100:39:13

Amazing. Let's see you at your work, then. Let's grab a sheep.

0:39:130:39:17

Come on, then, missy.

0:39:200:39:22

Good shearers are in high demand, and skills like this can take you

0:39:330:39:38

as far afield as Australia or New Zealand.

0:39:380:39:40

-She's pretty good.

-She's not bad at all.

0:39:400:39:42

And it's only really this year that she's got to start shearing other people's sheep.

0:39:420:39:48

Farming needs a lot of young people to join the industry, doesn't it?

0:39:480:39:52

But I understand the agricultural colleges are full again.

0:39:520:39:54

They're doing really well at the moment.

0:39:540:39:56

We're talking of first-year courses of 40, 50, 60.

0:39:560:40:01

Whereas ten years ago, you were only talking at 20s. But it needs people.

0:40:010:40:06

-I reckon that's pretty good. Are you happy with that?

-I'm pleased with that, yes.

0:40:080:40:12

You could take those New Zealanders on in no time. I'll pop him back in the pen.

0:40:120:40:16

It's fantastic to see keen young people getting into farming.

0:40:220:40:27

Agriculture has changed dramatically since I started out.

0:40:270:40:31

And I wonder what it'll be like for the next generation.

0:40:310:40:35

One thing's for sure, there are always going to be challenges.

0:40:350:40:38

But also some fantastic opportunities.

0:40:380:40:41

If you know a farmer who deserves recognition for the way they do their job,

0:40:410:40:44

you can nominate them as Farmer Of The Year in this year's BBC Food And Farming Awards.

0:40:440:40:50

For more information, go to our website.

0:40:500:40:55

Later on Countryfile, James is exploring deep under the Dales.

0:40:560:41:01

It's truly spectacular. It's like an ivory ice sculpture.

0:41:010:41:05

And for everyone who's out and about in the countryside this week,

0:41:050:41:08

we'll have the all-important Countryfile weather forecast.

0:41:080:41:11

Today I've been on a whistle-stop tour of the Dales.

0:41:180:41:20

Next stop, Redmire, home to the majestic Bolton Castle,

0:41:200:41:25

and currently the last stop on the Wensleydale Railway.

0:41:250:41:28

Well, from here you get a real sense of a landscape

0:41:320:41:35

that used to dominate the Dales, traditional hay meadows, something that James discovered earlier.

0:41:350:41:41

But I'm about to meet a man who has spent a year literally watching the grass grow.

0:41:410:41:46

Amateur photographer Neville Turner has spent the last 35 years

0:41:470:41:51

capturing the Dales in all their splendour.

0:41:510:41:54

As a local vet, these fields and farms were his workplace.

0:41:540:41:57

-You're at it again!

-Hello!

0:41:570:41:59

-You can't stop taking photos of meadows!

-I absolutely love it, yes.

0:41:590:42:02

And when did this whole thing start for you, then, and why?

0:42:020:42:05

It's a long-ish story.

0:42:050:42:06

I had a wonderful job.

0:42:060:42:09

I worked as a veterinary surgeon in rural practice in Upper Teesdale,

0:42:090:42:13

and I carried a camera on the passenger seat for a million miles over 35 years in practice.

0:42:130:42:19

Oh, my word.

0:42:190:42:21

So, whenever I saw something worth taking I'd wind the window down and take a picture.

0:42:210:42:25

And then a year past February I was asked to record the year in the life of a hay meadow.

0:42:250:42:33

It was to record every aspect, the insects, the flowers, the grasses,

0:42:330:42:37

but a big part of the brief was to take sort of time-lapse shots.

0:42:370:42:41

You see the snow disappearing and the grass growing and the flowers growing,

0:42:410:42:46

and then the seed heads and then haymaking.

0:42:460:42:49

I really, really enjoyed it.

0:42:490:42:52

Do you have any advice for any budding photographers out there?

0:42:520:42:56

-Go for an idea.

-Yeah?

0:42:560:42:58

Assuming you've mastered the basics of taking your picture, then I think you've got to use your imagination.

0:42:580:43:04

An example, many years ago I noticed in a field near home a mound,

0:43:040:43:10

and there was often a horse standing on that mound.

0:43:100:43:13

I thought, "Wow, that would be brilliant at sunrise."

0:43:130:43:16

After three or four weeks it all came together,

0:43:160:43:19

-and it's magic.

-That sounds spectacular.

0:43:190:43:23

That really is one of my favourite shots from way back.

0:43:230:43:27

I'm going to leave you to it, keep taking photos, but thanks ever so much indeed.

0:43:270:43:30

-See you later. All the best.

-Bye.

0:43:300:43:32

This backdrop is a perfect example of something

0:43:340:43:37

that would look wonderful in the landscape section of our Countryfile photographic competition.

0:43:370:43:41

This year's theme is Best in Show, and thank you so much for all of the photos that you've sent in so far.

0:43:410:43:47

We really have enjoyed looking at them.

0:43:470:43:49

If you haven't sent your entry in yet, here's John with a reminder of what you have to do.

0:43:490:43:53

And just in case you need a bit of inspiration,

0:43:550:43:57

here are some of the wonderful entries we've received so far.

0:43:570:44:00

Please keep them coming in.

0:44:000:44:02

The best photo in each class will be put to the viewers' vote.

0:44:350:44:39

The person who takes the winning photo will be declared Best in Show,

0:44:390:44:43

and gets to choose from a range of the latest photographic equipment

0:44:430:44:47

to the value of £1,000.

0:44:470:44:49

Whoever takes the judges' favourite photo will get to choose equipment to the value of £500.

0:44:490:44:56

Our competition isn't open to professionals.

0:44:560:44:59

Your entries mustn't have been offered for sale

0:44:590:45:02

or won other competitions. That's because we want something original.

0:45:020:45:06

You can enter up to four photos, which must be taken in the UK.

0:45:060:45:11

Please write your name, address and daytime and evening phone number

0:45:110:45:15

on the back of each photo, with a note of which class you want it to be judged in.

0:45:150:45:20

Each photo can only be entered in one class.

0:45:200:45:23

Then all you have to do is send your entries to -

0:45:250:45:29

The full terms and conditions are on our website,

0:45:360:45:39

as well as details of the BBC's code of conduct for competitions.

0:45:390:45:43

Please write to us enclosing a stamped addressed envelope

0:45:430:45:47

if you want a copy of the rules.

0:45:470:45:49

The closing date isn't until Friday, 12th August.

0:45:490:45:53

And, sorry, but we can't return any entries.

0:45:530:45:56

I'm nearing the end of my visit to the Yorkshire Dales,

0:45:560:45:59

but from here I'm going to be taking in the sights of the spectacular Aysgarth Falls,

0:45:590:46:03

and James will be exploring the underworld of the Yorkshire Dales,

0:46:030:46:07

but before that, here's the Countryfile weather forecast for the week ahead.

0:46:070:46:11

.

0:47:490:47:57

I'm coming to the end of my journey on the Wensleydale Railway.

0:48:070:48:10

Ultimately, the volunteers on the railway would like to open up 18 more miles of the old track

0:48:100:48:16

further into the Dales, but that's an ambitious plan and will cost around £1 million per mile.

0:48:160:48:22

Right now, the focus is on reopening just under three more miles of the line,

0:48:220:48:27

extending it as far as Aysgarth.

0:48:270:48:29

I've left the train behind to walk a part of the route that the volunteers hope to reopen.

0:48:290:48:34

This is Aysgarth Station, and it feels really strange. It's deserted.

0:48:340:48:39

There's no track at all, but at least you don't have to keep an eye out for trains!

0:48:390:48:44

But I couldn't come to Aysgarth without experiencing the falls just over the road from the station,

0:48:440:48:50

one of the natural wonders of the North,

0:48:500:48:52

a triple flight of waterfalls carved out by the River Ure,

0:48:520:48:56

stretching for almost a mile down into the middle of Wensleydale.

0:48:560:48:59

Oh, yeah!

0:48:590:49:01

What a spot this is! Just brilliant.

0:49:030:49:07

The water's so calm upstream, and then the water seems to explode into these torrents.

0:49:070:49:12

The sound, it just wraps around you and it feels incredibly powerful.

0:49:120:49:16

But it's not just what's going on above ground

0:49:160:49:19

in these rock formations that seems to grasp the imagination,

0:49:190:49:22

it's what's going on underneath that's equally as spectacular, as James has been discovering.

0:49:220:49:28

There are over 4,000 caves in the Yorkshire Dales that cut through the underground layers of limestone.

0:49:350:49:41

This is White Scar Cave.

0:49:410:49:44

Like several places dotted around the Dales, you can simply pay for a ticket,

0:49:440:49:48

walk in and explore some breathtaking underground views.

0:49:480:49:52

This place is absolutely amazing, but I'm about to take a much more difficult route

0:49:520:49:57

to see the Dales from below, to see sights that only a handful of people have ever really seen.

0:49:570:50:03

I'm going caving.

0:50:030:50:05

White Scar was discovered nearly 90 years ago by a man with candles stuck to his hat!

0:50:070:50:12

Today the techniques are very different, and as this will be my first time,

0:50:120:50:17

I've been training with the local cave rescue team.

0:50:170:50:20

A day later, and joined by veteran caver Mike Hale, I'm about to enter

0:50:200:50:24

the vast Ease Gill cave network, starting with a 100-foot drop.

0:50:240:50:29

This on TV looks like I'm just looking in a manhole, but I can see that goes down pretty damn far!

0:50:290:50:34

You can see his light a bit further down.

0:50:340:50:36

Yeah! It's really disconcerting. Right.

0:50:360:50:38

-And then you'll have to drop down until your weight comes on.

-OK.

0:50:380:50:43

-So, you're now on it.

-Wish me luck!

0:50:430:50:45

I've been practising my macho face in the mirror in the hotel.

0:50:570:51:01

I still haven't got it!

0:51:010:51:02

This is probably my worst nightmare.

0:51:090:51:13

I'm afraid of heights and I'm afraid of small spaces,

0:51:130:51:17

but I've got to boldly go where no ethno-botanist has been before.

0:51:170:51:21

This isn't too bad, actually.

0:51:210:51:23

Yeah, I think the key is to take it a little by little,

0:51:230:51:26

and, jeez, not look down!

0:51:260:51:28

'But it's down there that I'm heading.

0:51:300:51:32

'And once my feet are back on firm ground, it's time to explore.'

0:51:320:51:36

Now, watch your step over this slot here.

0:51:360:51:39

Gosh, that's quite a pothole!

0:51:410:51:44

There's a big drop down there, isn't there?

0:51:440:51:46

-It looks like a tiny crack until you get your light there and it goes down 50 metres!

-It does.

0:51:460:51:50

There are 47 miles of maze-like tunnels and passages around Ease Gill,

0:51:500:51:55

making it the longest and most complex cave system in England.

0:51:550:52:00

This is stunning. So, you've mapped all of this?

0:52:000:52:03

How do you find your way around, because you've got no visual kind of reference points, too?

0:52:030:52:07

You just learn the passages, really. You just come down here quite a lot,

0:52:070:52:11

have a look around at the different passages,

0:52:110:52:13

give them names as well, because that's often a good reminder.

0:52:130:52:16

What, you name some of the geological formations?

0:52:160:52:19

Yes. This is Bridge Hall, because you'll see when you come up to here,

0:52:190:52:22

-there's a big bridge of rock right across the top of it.

-You're kidding?!

0:52:220:52:26

I thought I'd be crawling on my belly through tiny little tunnels. This is amazing.

0:52:280:52:32

-No.

-And I can see the bridge, as well. Aptly named.

0:52:320:52:36

Gosh, this looks like one giant piece of quartz crystal here.

0:52:360:52:39

-That's calcite.

-Yeah.

0:52:390:52:41

So, that's fallen off the roof somewhere.

0:52:410:52:44

If you look up there you might see where it's come down from.

0:52:440:52:47

That's reassuring(!) You mean the bit directly above my head!

0:52:470:52:50

It wasn't there last week!

0:52:500:52:51

'It's an example of how natural processes mean the caves are slowly but constantly evolving.'

0:52:510:52:58

All over here there's evidence of the water that's created these caves over millions of years,

0:52:590:53:05

literally dissolving this limestone.

0:53:050:53:07

As rain falls it absorbs carbon dioxide, which creates quite a weak acid.

0:53:070:53:11

And over a long period of time it starts, basically,

0:53:110:53:14

eating into these passages, creating long tunnels and caves.

0:53:140:53:18

'And much more besides, as I'm about to discover.

0:53:180:53:21

'Because at the other end of this passage is one of Ease Gill's most spectacular sights.'

0:53:210:53:26

Just a little bit of a crawl for about a few feet,

0:53:260:53:30

and then we can stand up and walk into the Colonnade Chamber.

0:53:300:53:34

'Inside the chamber, stalactites and stalagmites have formed over thousands of years,

0:53:340:53:40

'some meeting to make vast crystal colonnades stretching from floor to ceiling.'

0:53:400:53:46

It's truly spectacular. It's kind of like an ivory ice sculpture.

0:54:060:54:10

If you look at this one up here you can see one in formation,

0:54:100:54:13

where the stalactite is coming down off the ceiling and joining onto the pillar at the bottom.

0:54:130:54:18

Eventually, as that develops over the years,

0:54:180:54:20

that'll become a thick column from floor to ceiling in the same way that these ones are.

0:54:200:54:24

It's hard to believe. You see these three giant pillars and suddenly you see you've got

0:54:240:54:29

all the different stages of the life cycle.

0:54:290:54:31

-Little baby ones.

-Yes.

-It's spectacular.

0:54:310:54:34

That one in the middle is a beautiful white colour, which is the normal colour of them, really.

0:54:340:54:39

Whereas the ones on these sides are slightly stained,

0:54:390:54:42

and that could possibly be mud from people touching it,

0:54:420:54:45

which has then become calcited over, and that will be permanently engrained in the column.

0:54:450:54:50

That's a shame, because that could have taken hundreds of thousands of years to form,

0:54:500:54:55

-and it's permanently, like, tattooed onto it.

-Yes, that's right, yes.

0:54:550:54:58

So, now the path has been created down here which takes you away from the columns,

0:54:580:55:02

and hopefully preserve them for generations to come.

0:55:020:55:05

'Because of its unique environment, the cave network is considered a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

0:55:050:55:11

'I'm used to exploring such protected landscapes, though usually above ground rather than deep under it.

0:55:110:55:18

'But even down here there's conservation work to be done.'

0:55:180:55:21

This is the last place on earth I thought you would need to conserve anything.

0:55:210:55:24

You'd think it would be pristine hundreds of metres underground.

0:55:240:55:27

On the surface paths and things overgrow again over the winter,

0:55:270:55:33

but down here once you've stepped on something, it stays stepped on.

0:55:330:55:37

'Muddy boots have damaged the surfaces,

0:55:370:55:40

'so Ray and his team are painstakingly cleaning the crystal floor.'

0:55:400:55:45

We're trying to undo 60 years' worth of caving feet wear.

0:55:450:55:50

'It's great to see them preserving the caves for future generations.

0:55:520:55:55

'It's a special place, and what I've seen is just a tiny part of it,

0:55:550:55:59

'but what came down must go up, and since it's started to rain, it's not going to be pretty.

0:55:590:56:05

Hello!

0:56:110:56:12

Every bit about caving is brilliant, except for coming back up again!

0:56:120:56:18

If we could just figure out some kind of escalator I'd do it every weekend!

0:56:180:56:23

'This is not an activity for the faint-hearted.

0:56:230:56:26

'It's hard work, it's wet and it's very dirty,

0:56:260:56:30

'but for the chance to see this incredible underground world, it's worth it.'

0:56:300:56:36

Well, that's it from the beautiful Yorkshire Dales.

0:56:360:56:39

Next week John will be exploring the remote Welsh coast of the Llyn Peninsula.

0:56:390:56:44

I hope you can join us then.

0:56:440:56:45

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:57:060:57:09

E-mail [email protected]

0:57:090:57:12

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