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'From the hills of Preseli to the secretive valley of Gwaun, | 0:00:32 | 0:00:36 | |
'this is a truly rural place. | 0:00:36 | 0:00:39 | |
'A hidden gem in a remote part of north Pembrokeshire.' | 0:00:39 | 0:00:42 | |
Man and beast have been roaming across these wild | 0:00:48 | 0:00:51 | |
and mysterious hills for centuries. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:54 | |
There's evidence of them all around, | 0:00:54 | 0:00:56 | |
from these burial mounds to hill forts. | 0:00:56 | 0:00:59 | |
Why did our prehistoric ancestors choose to make this place home? | 0:00:59 | 0:01:03 | |
I'll be finding out. | 0:01:03 | 0:01:05 | |
'Below the Preseli Hills, an ancient forest | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
'has been given a new lease of life.' | 0:01:09 | 0:01:11 | |
For many years it's been overgrown and unloved | 0:01:11 | 0:01:15 | |
but now it's being carefully managed and thinned out, | 0:01:15 | 0:01:18 | |
a new generation of broad leaved trees are being planted here. | 0:01:18 | 0:01:22 | |
Nothing goes to waste. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:24 | |
All the timber that's felled is turned into picnic benches, tables, | 0:01:24 | 0:01:29 | |
even woodland signs. | 0:01:29 | 0:01:31 | |
So I'd better get my woodworking skills brushed up. | 0:01:31 | 0:01:34 | |
'Tom's in the uplands of Cumbria.' | 0:01:34 | 0:01:37 | |
Is farming enhancing or damaging this landscape? | 0:01:37 | 0:01:42 | |
Maybe our uplands would thrive with fewer sheep and more wilderness. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:47 | |
I'll be investigating. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:48 | |
'And Adam's got a problem with one of the farm's biggest characters.' | 0:01:48 | 0:01:53 | |
Eric the Highland bull here is one of my firm favourites | 0:01:53 | 0:01:57 | |
but, unfortunately, he's had some major problems, | 0:01:57 | 0:01:59 | |
which isn't good news for his ladies | 0:01:59 | 0:02:02 | |
and not good news for him, either. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:05 | |
'The brooding Preseli Hills of Wales | 0:02:16 | 0:02:19 | |
'dominate a bleak and unforgiving landscape. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:23 | |
'Often shrouded in mist, these Hills are timeless, | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
'forgotten, | 0:02:26 | 0:02:28 | |
'dotted with relics of ancient civilisations. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:30 | |
'The Preseli range lie in west Wales, | 0:02:36 | 0:02:38 | |
'just inland from the spectacular Pembrokeshire coast.' | 0:02:38 | 0:02:41 | |
Despite its bleakness, | 0:02:48 | 0:02:50 | |
man has worked this land since prehistoric times. | 0:02:50 | 0:02:55 | |
Their lives have been woven into this landscape. | 0:02:55 | 0:02:58 | |
'Burial chambers, stone circles, standing stones | 0:03:03 | 0:03:06 | |
'and Iron Age forts. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:08 | |
'Over 200 scheduled monuments are scattered across the hillside.' | 0:03:08 | 0:03:13 | |
And up here, on Foel Drygarn, it's one man's passion to preserve them. | 0:03:17 | 0:03:23 | |
'Pete Crane's an archaeologist | 0:03:25 | 0:03:27 | |
'working with the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority.' | 0:03:27 | 0:03:30 | |
-Hi, Pete, how are you doing? -I'm fine, Ellie. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:34 | |
Wow, what are you doing among this enormous pile of stones? | 0:03:34 | 0:03:37 | |
Well, this enormous pile of stones is one of the three burial mounds, | 0:03:37 | 0:03:40 | |
presumably from the Bronze Age. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:42 | |
What happens is visitors come up | 0:03:42 | 0:03:44 | |
and actually make little holes in them | 0:03:44 | 0:03:47 | |
but when somebody makes a small hole in this monument, | 0:03:47 | 0:03:50 | |
possibly as a hide, in this case, | 0:03:50 | 0:03:52 | |
then other people come along and do more of them. | 0:03:52 | 0:03:55 | |
Although we can replace it, as we are doing here, | 0:03:55 | 0:03:57 | |
the actual archaeological integrity never grows back, | 0:03:57 | 0:04:01 | |
it's permanently damaged. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:02 | |
What are you doing, are you simply moving...? | 0:04:02 | 0:04:05 | |
Moving the stones back in. | 0:04:05 | 0:04:07 | |
We are refilling it as best we can. | 0:04:07 | 0:04:08 | |
So if we just roll some of the stones over. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:11 | |
On three... One, two, three! | 0:04:11 | 0:04:14 | |
-Yeah, good. -Good, good. | 0:04:14 | 0:04:16 | |
This is where bodies were buried? | 0:04:16 | 0:04:18 | |
Yeah, probably cremation at that stage, | 0:04:18 | 0:04:21 | |
probably a central burial in each one. | 0:04:21 | 0:04:24 | |
The chieftain, or some high-ranking people in the Bronze Age, | 0:04:24 | 0:04:28 | |
about 2400BC. | 0:04:28 | 0:04:31 | |
People would have lived up here around this barrow. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:33 | |
There would have been settlements around it? | 0:04:33 | 0:04:36 | |
By the time the Iron Age is coming up here | 0:04:36 | 0:04:38 | |
-there's up to 200 huts up here. -Wow! | 0:04:38 | 0:04:40 | |
Not necessarily all occupied, some of them could have been for storage. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:44 | |
We're dealing with 100 to maybe 400 people up here. | 0:04:44 | 0:04:48 | |
Think of the area that they would have actually been utilising | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
to feed themselves. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:53 | |
'These days the hills are pretty open | 0:04:53 | 0:04:56 | |
'but 6,000 years ago our prehistoric ancestors | 0:04:56 | 0:04:59 | |
'would have looked out over woodland.' | 0:04:59 | 0:05:02 | |
How would they have used it? | 0:05:02 | 0:05:03 | |
I think they've manipulated it for grassland | 0:05:03 | 0:05:06 | |
so they can herd their animals out from here. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
All the trees were taken out for fuel? | 0:05:08 | 0:05:10 | |
Yeah, when you get 400 people living here, | 0:05:10 | 0:05:13 | |
the only thing they'll burn is fuel, | 0:05:13 | 0:05:14 | |
what they are going to construct with is wood. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:16 | |
-They would need some sort of shelter in this? -They would, yes. | 0:05:16 | 0:05:19 | |
'Helping Pete restore this burial chamber | 0:05:20 | 0:05:23 | |
'is park ranger, Richard Vaughan.' | 0:05:23 | 0:05:25 | |
You're just picking up all the stones from the edge? | 0:05:26 | 0:05:29 | |
Not all of them, just the ones you can see have been thrown down. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:31 | |
'But Richard's real interest is in what grows on the rocks, | 0:05:31 | 0:05:36 | |
'lichens in all shapes and forms.' | 0:05:36 | 0:05:39 | |
So there's more than one type of lichen, aren't there? | 0:05:39 | 0:05:42 | |
There's a few colours on here. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:44 | |
There is an absolute wealth of different types. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:46 | |
They look to be a partnership between a fungi | 0:05:46 | 0:05:49 | |
and an algae, very complex organism. | 0:05:49 | 0:05:52 | |
Show me a couple of the lichens you get growing up here. | 0:05:52 | 0:05:55 | |
-OK, can you see this one? -Yeah, the white crusty one. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:57 | |
There's a couple of different types here | 0:05:57 | 0:05:59 | |
but this is the crusty one, the Crustose. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
This literally will grow up to a millimetre a year. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:04 | |
You just look at that and you think how old is that? | 0:06:04 | 0:06:06 | |
Some of these lichens up here would have been many decades old? | 0:06:06 | 0:06:10 | |
-If not more, hundreds. -Wow! | 0:06:10 | 0:06:12 | |
This is why we are doing the work we're doing | 0:06:12 | 0:06:14 | |
to try and look after this site. | 0:06:14 | 0:06:16 | |
-Lovely, I'll leave you to it. -Thank you. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:18 | |
-Thanks, Richard, see you later. -Bye-bye. | 0:06:18 | 0:06:20 | |
'It's easy to see why people would assume these are just piles | 0:06:24 | 0:06:27 | |
'of rocks, but thanks to the work of people like Pete and Richard, these | 0:06:27 | 0:06:31 | |
'age-old sites remain an important feature of this ancient landscape.' | 0:06:31 | 0:06:35 | |
While I'm delving deeper into this valley, | 0:06:39 | 0:06:41 | |
Tom is scaling the heights investigating the claim | 0:06:41 | 0:06:44 | |
that farming could be harming our hills. | 0:06:44 | 0:06:47 | |
'Britain's uplands, sprawling areas with sparse populations | 0:06:51 | 0:06:55 | |
'that make up 40% of the UK's landscape. | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
'Although they may look pretty empty, | 0:07:00 | 0:07:02 | |
'they're incredibly important to all of us.' | 0:07:02 | 0:07:05 | |
70% of our drinking water comes from the hills | 0:07:07 | 0:07:10 | |
and, properly managed, they act as a natural carbon store, | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
a barrier to flooding the towns below | 0:07:14 | 0:07:16 | |
and a home to many species of plants and animals. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:20 | |
An increasing number of voices are saying all this is under threat | 0:07:20 | 0:07:24 | |
and farming is largely to blame. | 0:07:24 | 0:07:26 | |
'To find out more about these fears, I'm heading out | 0:07:29 | 0:07:32 | |
'for a spot of bird watching with the RSPB's Pat Thompson.' | 0:07:32 | 0:07:35 | |
What are we hoping to spot here today? | 0:07:37 | 0:07:39 | |
I was kind of hoping we'd see a black grouse. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
What is it about them that makes them so relevant to the upland story? | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
Er, high priority bird, | 0:07:45 | 0:07:47 | |
less than 5,000 males left in the whole of the United kingdom. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:51 | |
'Pat's the organisation's uplands expert | 0:07:51 | 0:07:54 | |
'and believes overgrazing has stripped too many hills bare, | 0:07:54 | 0:07:58 | |
'harming the natural habitats of birds like the black grouse.' | 0:07:58 | 0:08:02 | |
Look... | 0:08:02 | 0:08:04 | |
that black blob that you can see. | 0:08:04 | 0:08:06 | |
I think you'll find that's a black grouse. | 0:08:06 | 0:08:09 | |
Yeah. In the distance it looks like any other bird | 0:08:09 | 0:08:13 | |
but when you get through the binoculars, you can see | 0:08:13 | 0:08:15 | |
-that classic grouse shape that isn't like most other birds. -Absolutely! | 0:08:15 | 0:08:19 | |
This is a bird that actually likes a patchy landscape, | 0:08:19 | 0:08:22 | |
mosaics of habitat of heath, of bog, of grass and woodland | 0:08:22 | 0:08:26 | |
and we've lost a lot of that kind of habitat structure and diversity. | 0:08:26 | 0:08:30 | |
Has heavy grazing of the upland areas been partly to blame | 0:08:30 | 0:08:34 | |
-for their decline? -Almost certainly. | 0:08:34 | 0:08:37 | |
'The claim is that where thousands of years ago our uplands | 0:08:37 | 0:08:41 | |
'would have been covered in trees, | 0:08:41 | 0:08:43 | |
'today these hills have become too heavily grazed, the forests lost | 0:08:43 | 0:08:47 | |
'and with them the essential cover and food they provide for wildlife.' | 0:08:47 | 0:08:52 | |
One needs to look at | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 | |
post-Second World War agricultural production subsidies, | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
encouraging the improvement of these lands to produce loads more food. | 0:08:58 | 0:09:02 | |
We can understand why that happened | 0:09:02 | 0:09:04 | |
but I think now the context needs to completely change | 0:09:04 | 0:09:07 | |
and we need to be looking at our uplands with fresh eyes. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:10 | |
We need to be thinking about what these places produce | 0:09:10 | 0:09:13 | |
for society as a whole and we ain't doing that. | 0:09:13 | 0:09:15 | |
-There he goes. -There he goes. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:19 | |
'Some voices are saying much of this heavily farmed land should be | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
'left to go wild once again, a process known as rewilding. | 0:09:28 | 0:09:33 | |
'Environmentalist and newspaper columnist, George Monbiot, | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
'is a leading voice in this campaign.' | 0:09:36 | 0:09:39 | |
A lot of people really like upland pasture, | 0:09:39 | 0:09:42 | |
they think it's a beautiful natural setting. | 0:09:42 | 0:09:44 | |
Yes, well, people do see it as natural and, in fact, | 0:09:44 | 0:09:46 | |
I did until I began to find out what used to be there, | 0:09:46 | 0:09:49 | |
which was much more woodland, very rich wildlife habitats. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:53 | |
All that has now gone. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
Those pastures support just a tiny scraping of the life | 0:09:56 | 0:09:59 | |
which used to be there. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
'He believes that farming in our hills | 0:10:02 | 0:10:04 | |
'is endangering not only wildlife but all of us, too.' | 0:10:04 | 0:10:08 | |
One of the big impacts from having animals | 0:10:09 | 0:10:11 | |
grazing in the hills is flooding. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:13 | |
We are very prone to floods in this country | 0:10:13 | 0:10:17 | |
and a major reason is that all the vegetation in the hills | 0:10:17 | 0:10:21 | |
has been removed and the vegetation helps to absorb water | 0:10:21 | 0:10:24 | |
and release it slowly | 0:10:24 | 0:10:25 | |
and the soil is being compacted by the hooves of the sheep. | 0:10:25 | 0:10:29 | |
That means that the water just flashes off it. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
So people are very obsessed by what happens in the flood plain | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
but, actually, it's more important what happens in the hills | 0:10:35 | 0:10:38 | |
and the catchment of the rivers. | 0:10:38 | 0:10:40 | |
If the water isn't being absorbed, and slowly released in the hills, | 0:10:40 | 0:10:43 | |
you're going to get floods downstream. | 0:10:43 | 0:10:45 | |
Sheep in the hills cause floods in the flood plains. | 0:10:45 | 0:10:48 | |
Really, so you're saying you could put the rising waters, | 0:10:48 | 0:10:51 | |
I don't know, in the Severn Valley, down to sheep hooves in Wales? | 0:10:51 | 0:10:55 | |
Yeah, that's right. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:56 | |
'Much of George's most fierce criticism has been aimed | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
'at the Lake District where he claims farming has created | 0:11:02 | 0:11:05 | |
'a bowling green monoculture. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:08 | |
'Local farmers like Carl Walter are coming out | 0:11:08 | 0:11:11 | |
'to defend their way of life.' | 0:11:11 | 0:11:13 | |
-Hi, there. -Hi. -You're making the hills look easy on that. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:16 | |
So where are your sheep at this time of year? | 0:11:19 | 0:11:22 | |
-They are way up the fell. -Way up here? -Yeah. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:24 | |
'Carl works land covering 250 windswept acres. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:29 | |
'He believes the negative impact of hill farming has been blown | 0:11:29 | 0:11:33 | |
'out of all proportion and ignore the many benefits it brings.' | 0:11:33 | 0:11:37 | |
SHEEP BLEAT | 0:11:37 | 0:11:38 | |
Ah, finally, we're seeing your beasts here. | 0:11:39 | 0:11:42 | |
Some people look at this landscape and say, why, it's a bit barren. | 0:11:42 | 0:11:45 | |
Naturally, it would have a lot more trees on it. | 0:11:45 | 0:11:47 | |
If you don't have the sheep grazing it, | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
you'll end up like the common further down that we have | 0:11:50 | 0:11:53 | |
where the gorse has taken over | 0:11:53 | 0:11:54 | |
and you actually can't get onto parts of the common. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
There's a lot of people like to come and walk in the Lake District | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
and people like to come here because it is a living landscape. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
It's, you know... | 0:12:03 | 0:12:04 | |
A lot of the people we see that come here on holiday | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
like nothing better than to see you gathering the fells with your dogs. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:12 | |
-Do you think this land really earns its keep? -Yeah, I think it does. | 0:12:12 | 0:12:16 | |
It's not just food production. | 0:12:16 | 0:12:19 | |
We support a lot of local tradesmen, hauliers | 0:12:19 | 0:12:22 | |
and there's all the machinery sales, the feed merchants, you know. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:27 | |
People are here because of the farming | 0:12:27 | 0:12:29 | |
and the minute you lose the farming, | 0:12:29 | 0:12:31 | |
you lose everything else that goes with it. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:33 | |
'This argument that livestock is the lifeblood of our hills | 0:12:35 | 0:12:38 | |
'is central to the case to keep farming these slopes.' | 0:12:38 | 0:12:42 | |
But others insist there is a credible alternative for the uplands, | 0:12:42 | 0:12:46 | |
which would both heal the land and reinvigorate rural communities. | 0:12:46 | 0:12:51 | |
I'll be seeing what that future landscape would look like later. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:54 | |
'Pembrokeshire's Gwaun Valley... | 0:13:02 | 0:13:04 | |
'This steep sided gorge, a relic of the Ice Age, | 0:13:04 | 0:13:08 | |
'has been shaped by torrents of meltwater | 0:13:08 | 0:13:10 | |
'that flowed as the glaciers retreated. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
'Now the River Gwaun meanders through marsh, | 0:13:13 | 0:13:16 | |
'water meadows and dense, ancient forests | 0:13:16 | 0:13:19 | |
'that cloak the valley sides.' | 0:13:19 | 0:13:21 | |
These woodlands are classed as one of the most important | 0:13:21 | 0:13:24 | |
natural habitats in the UK | 0:13:24 | 0:13:27 | |
and now a project is under way to breathe new life into them. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:32 | |
'The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority manages 500 acres. | 0:13:34 | 0:13:38 | |
'Geraint Harries is one of the rangers | 0:13:38 | 0:13:40 | |
'whose job is to safeguard this landscape.' | 0:13:40 | 0:13:43 | |
-Hello, Geraint. -Oh, helo, croeso. Welcome. | 0:13:43 | 0:13:47 | |
-A Welsh welcome. -Oh, yes, absolutely. | 0:13:47 | 0:13:49 | |
You must have a lot of birds around here | 0:13:49 | 0:13:51 | |
if you're putting up these boxes? | 0:13:51 | 0:13:53 | |
Well, yes, we're trying to enhance the habitat for many types of birds. | 0:13:53 | 0:13:56 | |
This is particularly for the bluetit and great tit. | 0:13:56 | 0:14:01 | |
-Just behind us we have a raptor's nest. -I can see that there. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:05 | |
I think it's a buzzard | 0:14:05 | 0:14:06 | |
but we also have red kite within the valley, | 0:14:06 | 0:14:09 | |
which is really quite exciting and fairly new to the area. | 0:14:09 | 0:14:13 | |
If it is such a special place, why does it need | 0:14:13 | 0:14:16 | |
a new breath of life blowing into it? | 0:14:16 | 0:14:19 | |
I think over the past years it's been unmanaged | 0:14:19 | 0:14:21 | |
and so we're trying to bring that management back into force | 0:14:21 | 0:14:26 | |
and enhance the habitat, basically. | 0:14:26 | 0:14:29 | |
'During both world wars, | 0:14:35 | 0:14:37 | |
'the Gwaun Valley's forests were largely decimated. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
'Trees were felled and the majority of timber sent | 0:14:40 | 0:14:42 | |
'to be used as pit props and axe handles | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
'for miners aiding the war effort.' | 0:14:45 | 0:14:48 | |
They were replaced by thousands of these quick growing, | 0:14:51 | 0:14:54 | |
non-native conifers which were then left to grow wild, | 0:14:54 | 0:14:58 | |
making the forest dark and inhospitable. | 0:14:58 | 0:15:01 | |
Now they're well past their sell-by date. | 0:15:01 | 0:15:03 | |
Plans are afoot to convert the forest | 0:15:04 | 0:15:06 | |
back to some semblance of ancient woodland. | 0:15:06 | 0:15:10 | |
And that means out with the conifers | 0:15:10 | 0:15:12 | |
and in with native broad-leaf trees like oak, hazel and ash. | 0:15:12 | 0:15:16 | |
So this scene is going to be transformed? | 0:15:17 | 0:15:20 | |
It will over a period of time, yes, | 0:15:20 | 0:15:21 | |
and we intend to remove some more of these conifers next year, | 0:15:21 | 0:15:25 | |
so in the end we will have a completely deciduous woodland. | 0:15:25 | 0:15:29 | |
What puzzles me a bit, Geraint, is that recently on the programme | 0:15:29 | 0:15:32 | |
another expert told me that a pine forest has more biodiversity | 0:15:32 | 0:15:37 | |
-than a broad-leaf forest. -Possibly, if it was managed properly. | 0:15:37 | 0:15:40 | |
We believe that there is more biodiversity within the woodland | 0:15:40 | 0:15:43 | |
if you're going back to what we had naturally, | 0:15:43 | 0:15:46 | |
so that's what we will be trying to do as a national park. | 0:15:46 | 0:15:49 | |
'But conifers aren't the only trees being felled.' | 0:15:52 | 0:15:55 | |
What have we got here, then? | 0:15:55 | 0:15:56 | |
We've got some sessile oak | 0:15:56 | 0:15:58 | |
that we've been thinning out of this woodland, Kilkiffeth. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:02 | |
So why do you want to take out broad-leaf trees? | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
Yes, it's an odd one, isn't it, that you're removing some nice oak, | 0:16:04 | 0:16:09 | |
but it's all grown up at the same time. | 0:16:09 | 0:16:12 | |
And we need to try and thin out individual trees to give more space, | 0:16:12 | 0:16:17 | |
open the canopy up, and of course leave more light down to the ground. | 0:16:17 | 0:16:21 | |
But of course we don't want to decimate the woodland either. | 0:16:28 | 0:16:31 | |
It's trying to get that balance, | 0:16:31 | 0:16:33 | |
which is why we come in and do little and often. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
Well, there are lots of brambles around here. Are they going as well? | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
They're quite good in terms of nature conservation | 0:16:39 | 0:16:43 | |
because of course we've got the dormice. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:46 | |
They love that, the bramble, to be able to crawl over and feed. | 0:16:46 | 0:16:51 | |
And what's going to happen to these trees now, then? | 0:16:51 | 0:16:53 | |
So they're being collected now, loaded, | 0:16:53 | 0:16:56 | |
and they'll be taken back to the sawmill at Cilrhedyn Woodland Centre, | 0:16:56 | 0:17:00 | |
where they'll be processed to make woodland furniture. | 0:17:00 | 0:17:02 | |
So that'll be full circle. | 0:17:02 | 0:17:04 | |
Yes, it will. It'll be used within the national park. | 0:17:04 | 0:17:07 | |
Well, the logs we saw being loaded are now in the sawmill. | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
What's happening to them? | 0:17:13 | 0:17:14 | |
They've just been brought here, | 0:17:14 | 0:17:16 | |
and they're loaded on to be cleft into fencing stakes. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:20 | |
'Nearly 200 tonnes of timber from forests around south Wales | 0:17:21 | 0:17:26 | |
'ends up here every year, and it's turned to many different uses.' | 0:17:26 | 0:17:30 | |
Apart from the fencing stakes, what else do you make? | 0:17:30 | 0:17:33 | |
Oh, all sorts of things. We can see in the shed. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:36 | |
Pretty fine gates here. | 0:17:40 | 0:17:41 | |
We install these along the coast path. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:44 | |
Obviously it's got to be sturdy enough to... | 0:17:44 | 0:17:47 | |
-Especially with the recent weather. -Especially. It's having a battering. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:51 | |
'And even the wood shavings don't go to waste.' | 0:17:52 | 0:17:56 | |
That's also a product, because a local farmer comes | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
and uses it as bedding for his livestock. | 0:17:59 | 0:18:02 | |
And this looks a fine bench. | 0:18:02 | 0:18:05 | |
Yes, this is a bit of Douglas fir that's used as a memorial bench. | 0:18:05 | 0:18:09 | |
-And you also make signposts, by the look of it. -Yes. | 0:18:09 | 0:18:12 | |
All the signs that we use as a national park | 0:18:12 | 0:18:14 | |
are made in this centre. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:16 | |
'Jim has been working at Cilrhedyn for 15 years. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:23 | |
'In that time, all the signs in the national park | 0:18:23 | 0:18:26 | |
'have been carved by his skilful hand.' | 0:18:26 | 0:18:29 | |
That is, until now. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:32 | |
And this goes down just till I feel it making a connection? | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
-That's right, yes. -Like that...? -Yeah. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:38 | |
So how many of these signs do you reckon you've made in your time? | 0:18:39 | 0:18:44 | |
Erm... A couple of thousand I should think. Over the years. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:48 | |
Not just in one language, but in two, | 0:18:48 | 0:18:51 | |
-so you have to work twice as hard as most signwriters. -That's right. | 0:18:51 | 0:18:54 | |
I somehow imagined that all this would be done by computer, Jim. | 0:18:57 | 0:19:01 | |
Well, I think in a lot of situations now it is, | 0:19:01 | 0:19:05 | |
but this machine is very good for doing one-offs, | 0:19:05 | 0:19:09 | |
and it responds well to wood as well. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:11 | |
There we are. Now you just park your machine in that little hole. | 0:19:13 | 0:19:18 | |
-That one? -Yeah. | 0:19:18 | 0:19:20 | |
Turn it off. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:22 | |
So, marks out of ten, Jim? | 0:19:22 | 0:19:24 | |
-Nine, I think, for that. -Ah. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:27 | |
It's a very good effort for the first attempt. | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
-So, our little man has been painted now. -Yes. -And he goes in here? | 0:19:31 | 0:19:35 | |
-That's right, yes. -With a... -A couple of whacks. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:38 | |
Here's the afternoon post arriving(!) | 0:19:47 | 0:19:49 | |
And...it gives me great pleasure to plant my sign. | 0:19:54 | 0:19:58 | |
I'll just leave you to fill it in, Geraint. | 0:19:58 | 0:20:00 | |
I'm off to the next location. I presume it's this way. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
-ELLIE: -While John's been busy "delivering the post", | 0:20:09 | 0:20:12 | |
I've been exploring the ancient landscape of the Preseli Hills. | 0:20:12 | 0:20:16 | |
I'm now moving forward in time from the Bronze Age to the Iron Age. | 0:20:18 | 0:20:22 | |
This is Castell Henllys, an Iron Age village, but with a difference. | 0:20:25 | 0:20:30 | |
It's a reconstructed village that's quite unique in Britain. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:36 | |
It actually sits on the foundations | 0:20:36 | 0:20:38 | |
of the original 2,000-year-old settlement. | 0:20:38 | 0:20:42 | |
Archaeologists began excavating the original Iron Age village | 0:20:44 | 0:20:47 | |
nearly 30 years ago - | 0:20:47 | 0:20:49 | |
and made some important discoveries about the people who lived there. | 0:20:49 | 0:20:54 | |
Like how they built their homes, | 0:20:54 | 0:20:56 | |
what they made... | 0:20:56 | 0:20:57 | |
..and what they ate. | 0:20:59 | 0:21:01 | |
I'm meeting Sally Hargraves to find out the answers. | 0:21:02 | 0:21:05 | |
-Hi, Sally. -Hello. -How are you? -I'm fine, working hard. -You are! | 0:21:05 | 0:21:09 | |
So what's happening here? | 0:21:09 | 0:21:11 | |
I'm making some flour to make into bread. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:14 | |
-So it's simply a case of turning this incredibly heavy stone. -Yes. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:18 | |
I shall put a little bit more grain in for you. | 0:21:18 | 0:21:20 | |
You're making here a very small amount of flour, | 0:21:20 | 0:21:22 | |
you have to keep at it and at it and at it, to make enough to make... | 0:21:22 | 0:21:26 | |
-Food for the whole family. -Food for the whole family. -Yeah, absolutely. | 0:21:26 | 0:21:30 | |
-What other things did they eat? -They were farmers. | 0:21:30 | 0:21:33 | |
They foraged as well, but farming was how they survived really | 0:21:33 | 0:21:38 | |
and it was hard, hard work. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:40 | |
So you had to grow what you wanted to eat, | 0:21:40 | 0:21:42 | |
and it had to last you the year. | 0:21:42 | 0:21:44 | |
So, bit of flour there - | 0:21:44 | 0:21:45 | |
-is that enough to make something to eat? -It'll make a roll. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
'This will be my first-ever attempt at an Iron Age bread roll.' | 0:21:48 | 0:21:53 | |
-Bit of kneading - and then break it off into little rolls? -Yes. -OK. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:58 | |
So what would life have been like inside one of these houses? | 0:21:58 | 0:22:01 | |
Cold, dark. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:04 | |
It's a family house. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:06 | |
You've got the beds there, | 0:22:06 | 0:22:07 | |
maybe the chief sister living in here with her family. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:10 | |
And would they all eat together round the fire? | 0:22:10 | 0:22:13 | |
Somebody would have the job of cooking for the village. | 0:22:13 | 0:22:15 | |
Everybody would gather and come back from their work, | 0:22:15 | 0:22:18 | |
whatever their jobs were, | 0:22:18 | 0:22:19 | |
and they would all eat together, at a time where stories would be told | 0:22:19 | 0:22:23 | |
and the work of the day would be talked about. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:27 | |
And what sort of things would be in their meals? | 0:22:27 | 0:22:30 | |
Whatever was seasonal. But mostly vegetables. | 0:22:30 | 0:22:33 | |
There might be some meat, some fish... | 0:22:33 | 0:22:36 | |
So meat would be for a special occasion. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:38 | |
Meat is a special occasion, yes. Yes. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:40 | |
'It's not quite The Great British Bake Off - but here goes.' | 0:22:40 | 0:22:44 | |
Mmm. It's not bad. | 0:22:46 | 0:22:48 | |
You'd certainly get some energy from it, wouldn't you? | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
Wouldn't mind a bit of chocolate spread on there. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:53 | |
Which I know is many years later! Many years later. | 0:22:53 | 0:22:56 | |
Wind forward a couple of thousand years, | 0:23:01 | 0:23:03 | |
and these ancient Iron Age skills are being revived. | 0:23:03 | 0:23:07 | |
Mark Bond heads up a project called Your Park. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:13 | |
It aims to get local kids from all walks of life | 0:23:13 | 0:23:16 | |
learning about the countryside on their doorstep. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:19 | |
Hi, Mark. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:21 | |
-How are you doing? -Good, thank you. -So what's happening in here? | 0:23:21 | 0:23:25 | |
These guys are daubing the walls of the roundhouse. | 0:23:25 | 0:23:28 | |
And they are repairing where bits of the daub have come away, | 0:23:28 | 0:23:32 | |
using the same procedures they would have used back in the Iron Age. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:35 | |
And what about learning about prehistoric skills like this? | 0:23:35 | 0:23:39 | |
Well, no-one needs asking twice to get their hands muddy, I suppose, | 0:23:39 | 0:23:43 | |
everyone likes to get stuck in. | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
But throughout the time we've spent together, | 0:23:46 | 0:23:48 | |
these guys have really forged a connection with the outdoors | 0:23:48 | 0:23:51 | |
and Pembrokeshire and their home, | 0:23:51 | 0:23:54 | |
and the history is obviously a big part of that. | 0:23:54 | 0:23:57 | |
And obviously being able to come and do days like this | 0:23:57 | 0:24:00 | |
where they can actively involve themselves in repairing | 0:24:00 | 0:24:03 | |
historical places like this is just fantastic. | 0:24:03 | 0:24:06 | |
The group's drawn from the surrounding area, | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
and is made up of teenagers | 0:24:09 | 0:24:11 | |
from mainstream and special needs schools. | 0:24:11 | 0:24:14 | |
Right - time for ME to get stuck in. | 0:24:14 | 0:24:16 | |
You all look like you're having far too much fun. | 0:24:16 | 0:24:19 | |
-What are you doing here, Ashley? -We're stamping on the cow muck. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:22 | |
So what's the point of stamping on it? | 0:24:22 | 0:24:24 | |
Because it makes it softer then. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:27 | |
-A-ha. Makes it easier to use, does it? -Yeah. | 0:24:27 | 0:24:30 | |
-Do you think this is ready under my feet? -Yeah. -Is that good? | 0:24:30 | 0:24:33 | |
-Yeah. -Fabulous. Right, let's stick it in the wheelbarrow, | 0:24:33 | 0:24:35 | |
-and then we'll get up to the hut. -Yeah. -Lovely. | 0:24:35 | 0:24:38 | |
-Is that the right texture, Lucy? -Yeah. -Is that looking good? | 0:24:44 | 0:24:47 | |
-Put it on the cracks... -OK. -Put it on, and then... | 0:24:48 | 0:24:53 | |
-hit it with your fist, to even it out. -Just splodge it on! | 0:24:53 | 0:24:57 | |
So then, when that dries, it'll fill the cracks. | 0:24:57 | 0:24:59 | |
This is completely new, I had no idea it was like this. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:01 | |
But it's actually really hard work. | 0:25:01 | 0:25:03 | |
So how's this looking? | 0:25:03 | 0:25:04 | |
This is looking pretty good, yeah, you're doing really well. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:08 | |
-We'll build our own house yet, Lucy! -We will do it! | 0:25:08 | 0:25:12 | |
As this lot head home after a hard day's graft, | 0:25:13 | 0:25:16 | |
I'm continuing my journey. | 0:25:16 | 0:25:18 | |
I'll be meeting a farmer whose land is home | 0:25:19 | 0:25:21 | |
to a rather extraordinary breed of cattle. | 0:25:21 | 0:25:24 | |
Earlier, Tom investigated claims that our uplands are suffering, | 0:25:28 | 0:25:32 | |
and that damage from farming is largely to blame. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:35 | |
But if these farms disappeared, what would replace them? | 0:25:35 | 0:25:39 | |
Think of Britain's uplands and you probably imagine rugged terrain, | 0:25:42 | 0:25:46 | |
grand, windswept vistas and sheep dotted across the hills. | 0:25:46 | 0:25:51 | |
Well, there could be far fewer of these animals | 0:25:51 | 0:25:53 | |
if some people were to get their way. | 0:25:53 | 0:25:55 | |
But if farming disappeared from here, | 0:25:55 | 0:25:57 | |
how would it affect the landscape, | 0:25:57 | 0:25:59 | |
and would the local community survive? | 0:25:59 | 0:26:02 | |
Well, according to some, | 0:26:03 | 0:26:05 | |
this valley in the Lake District could be a glimpse of the future. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:09 | |
This is Wild Ennerdale, | 0:26:09 | 0:26:11 | |
1,200 acres of former grazing land and commercial forest. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:15 | |
Ten years ago it was left to return to its wild state, | 0:26:15 | 0:26:19 | |
as part of the UK's most high-profile re-wilding experiment. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:24 | |
What we've got is a fantastic birch woodland, | 0:26:24 | 0:26:26 | |
with some conifer regeneration, some big dead wood, | 0:26:26 | 0:26:30 | |
and wonderful pools of water that we're going to try and cross now. | 0:26:30 | 0:26:34 | |
I may not think they're so wonderful in a minute. | 0:26:34 | 0:26:38 | |
Way-hay! Man down. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:40 | |
'I'm heading into the wilderness | 0:26:40 | 0:26:42 | |
'with the Forestry Commission's Gareth Browning, | 0:26:42 | 0:26:44 | |
'to discover whether this project | 0:26:44 | 0:26:46 | |
'has the potential to become a blueprint for healthier hills.' | 0:26:46 | 0:26:50 | |
The river used to flow a completely different way, | 0:26:50 | 0:26:52 | |
and over time the river has decided it wants to come this way | 0:26:52 | 0:26:56 | |
and in the past we'd have tried to stop it, | 0:26:56 | 0:26:58 | |
but now we just stand back and are just amazed by it. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:01 | |
It feels like a very geographically lively place, | 0:27:01 | 0:27:04 | |
it's all happening around us. | 0:27:04 | 0:27:05 | |
It's tangible, it's texture. It's full of it. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:08 | |
What about on the uplands themselves, | 0:27:08 | 0:27:10 | |
what changes would you be expecting up there as the decades pass? | 0:27:10 | 0:27:14 | |
We're hoping that the uplands will become more spongy. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:18 | |
So they'll absorb and hold back water | 0:27:18 | 0:27:20 | |
so that water's fed into the system at a slower rate | 0:27:20 | 0:27:22 | |
as we move from the sheep grazing that we've had in this area | 0:27:22 | 0:27:25 | |
to cattle grazing. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:26 | |
Then we're going to see changes in terms of the density | 0:27:26 | 0:27:29 | |
of the vegetation, and hopefully the diversity as well. | 0:27:29 | 0:27:32 | |
We've already seen over 100 bird species come here, | 0:27:32 | 0:27:35 | |
and we've got about 90 different habitats across the valley. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:39 | |
'Environmentalist and author George Monbiot has a vision of many more | 0:27:41 | 0:27:46 | |
'of these re-wilded landscapes | 0:27:46 | 0:27:47 | |
'emerging from where farms currently stand.' | 0:27:47 | 0:27:51 | |
So, would you like to see all the uplands | 0:27:52 | 0:27:54 | |
covered in woodland like this? | 0:27:54 | 0:27:56 | |
I would like to see an awful lot more of it. | 0:27:56 | 0:27:58 | |
'He claims that could reinvigorate not just wildlife, | 0:27:58 | 0:28:02 | |
'but also rural communities. | 0:28:02 | 0:28:04 | |
'Although he does acknowledge many living in the countryside | 0:28:04 | 0:28:08 | |
'will take some convincing.' | 0:28:08 | 0:28:09 | |
Let me quote something back to you from your book. | 0:28:09 | 0:28:12 | |
You say, "Re-wilding should only happen with the consent | 0:28:12 | 0:28:14 | |
"and enthusiasm of those who work the land." | 0:28:14 | 0:28:17 | |
You haven't got that at the moment. | 0:28:17 | 0:28:19 | |
No, we haven't got it yet, but I think that when people see | 0:28:19 | 0:28:22 | |
what some of the benefits are, particularly the economic benefits - | 0:28:22 | 0:28:25 | |
when you look at the possibilities for wildlife tourism, | 0:28:25 | 0:28:28 | |
for the money that could be made through better carbon storage | 0:28:28 | 0:28:31 | |
and flood management, then actually people could be doing | 0:28:31 | 0:28:35 | |
an awful lot better by re-wilding the land | 0:28:35 | 0:28:37 | |
than they do by keeping sheep there. | 0:28:37 | 0:28:40 | |
And you think you can persuade the farmers | 0:28:40 | 0:28:42 | |
to get their consent and enthusiasm? | 0:28:42 | 0:28:44 | |
I'm an eternal optimist. Yes, I think I can. | 0:28:44 | 0:28:46 | |
Convincing many farmers | 0:28:49 | 0:28:50 | |
their land should be left alone to re-wild | 0:28:50 | 0:28:54 | |
would be a pretty hard sell. | 0:28:54 | 0:28:57 | |
But here in Geltsdale, they think they might have found a solution | 0:28:57 | 0:29:00 | |
that should be more appealing to all sides. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:03 | |
According to the RSPB, | 0:29:05 | 0:29:07 | |
sheep farming is largely responsible for damage to our uplands. | 0:29:07 | 0:29:11 | |
But on this RSPB-owned land, sheep are welcome. | 0:29:11 | 0:29:15 | |
Here the plan is to bring agriculture and a wild landscape into harmony. | 0:29:15 | 0:29:20 | |
Right, I see a lot of trees you've planted around here | 0:29:21 | 0:29:23 | |
-but is farming relevant to what you're doing here? -Absolutely, yeah. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:27 | |
We're trying to farm in a different way | 0:29:27 | 0:29:29 | |
that's more beneficial for the natural environment, | 0:29:29 | 0:29:32 | |
whilst at the same time still with agricultural product - | 0:29:32 | 0:29:35 | |
beef and lamb as part of that. | 0:29:35 | 0:29:37 | |
But the natural environment is also an integral part | 0:29:37 | 0:29:40 | |
of this high-nature value farming that we're really interested in. | 0:29:40 | 0:29:44 | |
So this was, as you can see over there, bare grassland. | 0:29:44 | 0:29:48 | |
Heavily grazed, bare, with not much structure or diversity at all, | 0:29:48 | 0:29:52 | |
and you can see what it looks like now. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:54 | |
We've got a variety of dwarf shrubs coming back - bilberry, heather... | 0:29:54 | 0:29:58 | |
So the birds are using this habitat already. | 0:29:58 | 0:30:01 | |
So under your vision for the future, there would still be farming, | 0:30:01 | 0:30:06 | |
but there would be less farming, | 0:30:06 | 0:30:07 | |
and it wouldn't be the dominant industry that it is today? | 0:30:07 | 0:30:10 | |
Absolutely. Any more than we think that forestry should dominate, | 0:30:10 | 0:30:14 | |
or sport shooting should dominate. We're trying to secure | 0:30:14 | 0:30:17 | |
multiple benefits from these upland landscapes. | 0:30:17 | 0:30:20 | |
-So farmer's friend or farmer's enemy up here? -Potentially both. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:24 | |
But there are those who profoundly disagree | 0:30:26 | 0:30:29 | |
with letting nature reclaim farmland. | 0:30:29 | 0:30:31 | |
Here in the Lake District, MP Rory Stewart represents many people | 0:30:31 | 0:30:35 | |
who feel there are already too few sheep on the hills, | 0:30:35 | 0:30:39 | |
and that restocking, not re-wilding, is needed | 0:30:39 | 0:30:42 | |
to preserve the local economy and the way of life. | 0:30:42 | 0:30:44 | |
Look at the entire fellside behind me. | 0:30:45 | 0:30:48 | |
You're not going to be able to see a single sheep. | 0:30:48 | 0:30:51 | |
You say that, but there are more than a million, I gather, | 0:30:51 | 0:30:53 | |
in your constituency, so they're not exactly running out of sheep here. | 0:30:53 | 0:30:57 | |
This is a sheep farming area, | 0:30:57 | 0:30:58 | |
but what's happening is something really weird - | 0:30:58 | 0:31:01 | |
essentially, a group of intellectuals | 0:31:01 | 0:31:04 | |
are imposing their fantasies on this landscape, | 0:31:04 | 0:31:07 | |
and their fantasy is that they're living in a wilderness, | 0:31:07 | 0:31:10 | |
and they're trying to create a landscape | 0:31:10 | 0:31:12 | |
that hasn't existed here for 3,000 years. | 0:31:12 | 0:31:14 | |
And how do you feel when you look at this kind of landscape? | 0:31:14 | 0:31:17 | |
Well, I think it's a tragedy. | 0:31:17 | 0:31:18 | |
I think there's a place for bits of forestry, there's a place | 0:31:18 | 0:31:22 | |
for bits of birds sanctuary, but we have to protect the human. | 0:31:22 | 0:31:26 | |
The debate on the future of our uplands is really just beginning. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:32 | |
Critics claim farming has pushed our hills to their limit. | 0:31:32 | 0:31:36 | |
Its supporters say it has both created and sustains | 0:31:36 | 0:31:40 | |
the countryside we know and love. | 0:31:40 | 0:31:42 | |
In this debate, both sides are claiming the moral high ground, | 0:31:43 | 0:31:47 | |
believing they're protecting a sort of endangered species - | 0:31:47 | 0:31:50 | |
small family farms on the one hand, and wildlife on the other. | 0:31:50 | 0:31:55 | |
But it seems to me if we can get rid of the mistrust, there's enough | 0:31:55 | 0:31:59 | |
room in our uplands to accommodate both visions of the future. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:04 | |
As Adam knows only too well, nature plays a huge part | 0:32:08 | 0:32:12 | |
in the success or failure of the farming year. | 0:32:12 | 0:32:14 | |
And 2014 is already bringing him some unwelcome surprises. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:19 | |
There are some images in this film that you might find upsetting. | 0:32:19 | 0:32:24 | |
We farm 750 ewes. Today I'm moving a flock of them | 0:32:30 | 0:32:34 | |
to some fresh pasture on the other side of the farm. | 0:32:34 | 0:32:37 | |
Last year was a difficult year for livestock farmers - | 0:32:40 | 0:32:43 | |
a wet winter and then a very cold spring. | 0:32:43 | 0:32:46 | |
And because of the snow and the cold weather, the grass didn't grow, | 0:32:46 | 0:32:49 | |
so the ewes didn't produce much milk, | 0:32:49 | 0:32:51 | |
so the lambs weren't putting on as much weight as we hoped, | 0:32:51 | 0:32:54 | |
and it was tricky all round, really. | 0:32:54 | 0:32:56 | |
But this year, I'm hoping for a good crop of lambs that will grow well. | 0:32:56 | 0:33:01 | |
All right, then, girls! | 0:33:01 | 0:33:03 | |
Up the hill! | 0:33:03 | 0:33:05 | |
Well, that should give these ewes a few fresh pickings on the grass here. | 0:33:05 | 0:33:09 | |
And we have to look after our livestock as best as we can | 0:33:09 | 0:33:12 | |
all year round, and a couple of years ago, | 0:33:12 | 0:33:14 | |
Schmallenberg came into the country, | 0:33:14 | 0:33:17 | |
spread by midges, and it can affect sheep, cattle and goats, | 0:33:17 | 0:33:21 | |
causing abortion, but also deformities | 0:33:21 | 0:33:23 | |
in their young when they're born. | 0:33:23 | 0:33:26 | |
And, thankfully, a vaccine came on the market, and although there was | 0:33:26 | 0:33:30 | |
an expense associated to that, I didn't want to take any risks, | 0:33:30 | 0:33:33 | |
so I vaccinated all 750 of my ewes to try and protect them. | 0:33:33 | 0:33:38 | |
SHEEP BLEAT | 0:33:38 | 0:33:39 | |
While the sheep are in pretty good health | 0:33:39 | 0:33:41 | |
and are safe from the Schmallenberg virus, | 0:33:41 | 0:33:43 | |
at the time, I couldn't vaccinate the cattle, which left them at risk. | 0:33:43 | 0:33:47 | |
With the Schmallenberg vaccine, you're not supposed to use it | 0:33:47 | 0:33:51 | |
in animals that are likely to already be pregnant, | 0:33:51 | 0:33:54 | |
and back in the summer, | 0:33:54 | 0:33:55 | |
all five of my cattle breeds were in that situation - | 0:33:55 | 0:33:58 | |
they'd been running with the bulls and they could be carrying | 0:33:58 | 0:34:01 | |
calves inside them, so we couldn't vaccinate them, which meant | 0:34:01 | 0:34:05 | |
we just had to leave them to their own devices and take the risk. | 0:34:05 | 0:34:09 | |
Sadly, that risk didn't pay off, | 0:34:10 | 0:34:12 | |
and it's not good news for one of my favourites. | 0:34:12 | 0:34:14 | |
I really love my Highland cattle, particularly Eric, | 0:34:16 | 0:34:19 | |
the Highland bull over there. He's absolutely magnificent. | 0:34:19 | 0:34:22 | |
And at this time of year, they've got their winter coats, | 0:34:22 | 0:34:25 | |
that glisten in this sunshine. | 0:34:25 | 0:34:27 | |
He's pushing his ladies around, asserting his authority. | 0:34:27 | 0:34:32 | |
He's a big, strong beast, but actually he's very placid | 0:34:32 | 0:34:35 | |
and he's lovely to work with. | 0:34:35 | 0:34:37 | |
But back in the summer, we had some problems with the cows. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:39 | |
They weren't getting in calf, | 0:34:39 | 0:34:41 | |
so we decided to have the herd blood tested, and the first results | 0:34:41 | 0:34:45 | |
that came back were from Eric, and he had Schmallenberg, but also IBR, | 0:34:45 | 0:34:49 | |
which is infectious bovine rhinotracheitis, I think it's called. | 0:34:49 | 0:34:53 | |
And both of those illnesses can cause a bull to be infertile. | 0:34:53 | 0:34:56 | |
It raises their temperature. And they can get over it - | 0:34:56 | 0:35:00 | |
they can recover from that, so we had Eric fertility tested. | 0:35:00 | 0:35:05 | |
They tested his sperm and examined his reproductive organs, | 0:35:05 | 0:35:08 | |
and he's got some problems. | 0:35:08 | 0:35:09 | |
There's been some trauma down there, his sperm count is low, | 0:35:09 | 0:35:13 | |
and it may not have anything to do with the Schmallenberg | 0:35:13 | 0:35:16 | |
or the IBR - it could be just a coincidence | 0:35:16 | 0:35:18 | |
and something else has got to him or infected him, | 0:35:18 | 0:35:22 | |
or it's just gone wrong, so, sadly, | 0:35:22 | 0:35:24 | |
he's not a fertile working bull, so he's got to go. | 0:35:24 | 0:35:27 | |
But he's my favourite, but he's also a bit of a nation's favourite, | 0:35:27 | 0:35:31 | |
so I don't really want to send him to slaughter. | 0:35:31 | 0:35:34 | |
So in this instance, I'm going to try to find a farmer who's got | 0:35:34 | 0:35:36 | |
a few cattle that Eric could run with | 0:35:36 | 0:35:39 | |
and retire and grow old in a field somewhere. | 0:35:39 | 0:35:42 | |
Since arriving on the farm in early 2011, Eric's done us proud, | 0:35:52 | 0:35:57 | |
producing some great offspring. | 0:35:57 | 0:35:59 | |
Last year, one of his sons, Nevis, was born silver in colour, | 0:36:00 | 0:36:03 | |
something I'd never seen before. | 0:36:03 | 0:36:05 | |
I was told he would eventually turn brown. | 0:36:05 | 0:36:08 | |
Eight months on, he's looking to be a pretty fine bull. | 0:36:08 | 0:36:12 | |
There's a good boy. | 0:36:12 | 0:36:13 | |
He's still a lovely colour. | 0:36:17 | 0:36:18 | |
He's a little bit darker now, but when he was born, | 0:36:18 | 0:36:22 | |
he was that bright silver colour, almost sort of nickel, | 0:36:22 | 0:36:25 | |
and it's gone more of a cafe-creme colour. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:28 | |
I think this is probably the colour he'll stay now. Come on, fella. | 0:36:28 | 0:36:33 | |
And he's learning how to behave on the halter, which is important, | 0:36:33 | 0:36:38 | |
because once they're big bulls, they can be a bit uncontrollable | 0:36:38 | 0:36:42 | |
if they haven't learned their manners at an early age. | 0:36:42 | 0:36:45 | |
And he's got good physique. | 0:36:45 | 0:36:48 | |
He's got good width across the shoulders, | 0:36:48 | 0:36:50 | |
right down his body. | 0:36:50 | 0:36:51 | |
We've shaved his back here because we've got the Highlands indoors | 0:36:51 | 0:36:54 | |
and this thick coat means they get a bit sweaty, | 0:36:54 | 0:36:57 | |
and if you shave their backs, it lets the heat out, | 0:36:57 | 0:37:00 | |
and then they carry on eating well and growing. | 0:37:00 | 0:37:03 | |
We haven't tested the calves for Schmallenberg | 0:37:03 | 0:37:05 | |
because there's no need to at the moment - | 0:37:05 | 0:37:07 | |
while he's still a baby, it won't affect him in any way. | 0:37:07 | 0:37:11 | |
It's just like getting a sickness and then getting over it, | 0:37:11 | 0:37:14 | |
so hopefully he'll stay clear of it in his life. | 0:37:14 | 0:37:17 | |
Come on, mate. | 0:37:17 | 0:37:19 | |
I'm pleased that Nevis is in tip-top condition. | 0:37:26 | 0:37:30 | |
To ensure a high health status on the farm, | 0:37:30 | 0:37:32 | |
we test and vaccinate regularly, | 0:37:32 | 0:37:34 | |
and today the vet is testing our small herd of Belted Galloways. | 0:37:34 | 0:37:38 | |
They're similar to the Highlands because they're so hardy. | 0:37:39 | 0:37:42 | |
They originate from the west coast of Scotland. Really lovely cattle. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:47 | |
And this is the Belted Galloway bull, and his name's Crackers, | 0:37:47 | 0:37:51 | |
and he's aptly named because he is a bit crazy. | 0:37:51 | 0:37:54 | |
When I first got him, he was jumping over fences | 0:37:54 | 0:37:57 | |
and getting in with the wrong cows and causing all sorts of problems. | 0:37:57 | 0:38:00 | |
He was never halter-trained as a calf like I'm doing with Nevis, | 0:38:00 | 0:38:04 | |
so he was a bit wild, | 0:38:04 | 0:38:05 | |
but he's settled down now and he's doing all right. | 0:38:05 | 0:38:08 | |
He's a bit stubborn, trying to get him up to the fence. | 0:38:08 | 0:38:10 | |
Go on, then! Go on, on you go! Trotting along well, now. | 0:38:10 | 0:38:14 | |
We'll get there in a minute. | 0:38:14 | 0:38:16 | |
All right, all right. Whoa, whoa, whoa. | 0:38:30 | 0:38:33 | |
Will, the vet, is taking blood from Crackers now | 0:38:33 | 0:38:36 | |
to test him for various diseases. | 0:38:36 | 0:38:38 | |
We lost our Belted Galloway last year to TB, | 0:38:38 | 0:38:40 | |
but the herd is now clear of TB, | 0:38:40 | 0:38:42 | |
but we have to keep an eye on all sorts of other cattle diseases. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:45 | |
So he's got a vacuum tube there - | 0:38:45 | 0:38:47 | |
he puts a needle into the bull's tail, that finds the vein, and then | 0:38:47 | 0:38:50 | |
the blood is sucked into the tube and that's sent away for testing. | 0:38:50 | 0:38:55 | |
-There you go. -Well, that's Crackers done. | 0:38:55 | 0:38:58 | |
It's now time to find out if he's done his job | 0:38:58 | 0:39:00 | |
and his ladies are pregnant. | 0:39:00 | 0:39:01 | |
I've been nervous about this | 0:39:03 | 0:39:04 | |
and I don't want the same outcome as the horrible moment | 0:39:04 | 0:39:07 | |
we discovered Eric's infertility, | 0:39:07 | 0:39:09 | |
when none of the Highlands were pregnant. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:12 | |
So that's a fancy bit of kit you've got on there, Will. | 0:39:12 | 0:39:14 | |
Yeah, we've got goggles now rather than a screen, | 0:39:14 | 0:39:16 | |
so you can see while you're working. It means you don't have to worry | 0:39:16 | 0:39:19 | |
-about looking at a screen. -So you're not doing it manually - | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
you're using an electronic scanner? | 0:39:22 | 0:39:24 | |
Yes, an ultrasound scanner, | 0:39:24 | 0:39:26 | |
that means that we can tell when they're pregnant a lot earlier | 0:39:26 | 0:39:29 | |
-and it's a lot more reliable than just feeling. -OK. | 0:39:29 | 0:39:31 | |
I'm running the scanner over the reproductive tract, | 0:39:34 | 0:39:37 | |
initially looking for fluid, because in early pregnancy, | 0:39:37 | 0:39:40 | |
the first thing you see is fluid in the uterus, | 0:39:40 | 0:39:42 | |
and then you'll find a little foetus floating in the fluid. | 0:39:42 | 0:39:45 | |
-Messy business. -It is. | 0:39:46 | 0:39:48 | |
It's always a tense moment when we're pregnancy testing the cattle. | 0:39:48 | 0:39:52 | |
We want them to be giving birth to a calf every year. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:54 | |
The gestation period from mating to birth is nine months, | 0:39:54 | 0:39:57 | |
so they give birth once a year, and we want to be, you know, | 0:39:57 | 0:40:02 | |
improving the breed, getting more heifers to have in our herd, | 0:40:02 | 0:40:05 | |
and then also producing some steers for beef, so it's an important | 0:40:05 | 0:40:08 | |
part of the business that these cows are breeding every year. | 0:40:08 | 0:40:11 | |
-She's a no, I'm afraid. -This one's a no. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:15 | |
COW MOOS | 0:40:15 | 0:40:17 | |
Not good news. I hope it's not the same for the rest of the herd. | 0:40:21 | 0:40:26 | |
-Yes, she is pregnant. -Great. -We've got a foetus there. -Wonderful. | 0:40:29 | 0:40:32 | |
-Excellent. -Good news, excellent. Good old Cracker. | 0:40:32 | 0:40:36 | |
Thankfully, the whole herd is in calf apart from the first one. | 0:40:42 | 0:40:46 | |
And, hopefully, the blood test results | 0:40:46 | 0:40:48 | |
will show that our Belted Galloways are disease-free. | 0:40:48 | 0:40:51 | |
One of the problems with farming is that you never know | 0:40:58 | 0:41:00 | |
quite what's round the corner. | 0:41:00 | 0:41:02 | |
One minute it might be bad weather, | 0:41:02 | 0:41:04 | |
the next minute some kind of animal disease, | 0:41:04 | 0:41:07 | |
but, as farmers, we're a pretty resilient bunch, | 0:41:07 | 0:41:10 | |
so we've just got to get on with it. | 0:41:10 | 0:41:12 | |
COWS MOO | 0:41:17 | 0:41:20 | |
Rising high above north Pembrokeshire, | 0:41:27 | 0:41:29 | |
the dramatic hilltop of Carn Edward. | 0:41:29 | 0:41:32 | |
And from up here, there are breathtaking views | 0:41:36 | 0:41:39 | |
of the valley just down there, and the Preseli Hills behind. | 0:41:39 | 0:41:42 | |
Tucked away on the side of Carn Edward | 0:41:57 | 0:42:00 | |
is the home of the Vaughan family. | 0:42:00 | 0:42:02 | |
They've been farming here for more than 600 years. | 0:42:02 | 0:42:06 | |
Today, eldest son Robert runs the 500-acre farm. | 0:42:06 | 0:42:11 | |
He keeps 1,000 sheep, and ten years ago, | 0:42:12 | 0:42:15 | |
he decided to diversify and introduced this lot - | 0:42:15 | 0:42:19 | |
Longhorn cattle. | 0:42:19 | 0:42:20 | |
So why have you chosen Longhorns, then, for your farm? | 0:42:22 | 0:42:25 | |
We wanted a cow which would graze | 0:42:25 | 0:42:26 | |
the areas which weren't being grazed on the mountain. | 0:42:26 | 0:42:29 | |
It's quite a large family farm | 0:42:29 | 0:42:30 | |
and I wanted something which was low-maintenance, calved easily, | 0:42:30 | 0:42:34 | |
and we can crack on and do the sheep work and other jobs on the farm | 0:42:34 | 0:42:37 | |
and not have to be following the cattle all day, worrying about them. | 0:42:37 | 0:42:40 | |
So what's the history of this breed? | 0:42:40 | 0:42:42 | |
One of the oldest native breeds. | 0:42:42 | 0:42:44 | |
Dual-purpose back in the day, and, from what I understand, | 0:42:44 | 0:42:46 | |
it used to produce the red Leicester cheese. | 0:42:46 | 0:42:49 | |
They're predominantly a beef breed now. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:51 | |
There's a connection with this herd and Adam's farm, isn't there? | 0:42:51 | 0:42:54 | |
There is. It's a small world in the farming community. | 0:42:54 | 0:42:56 | |
We did buy a Bemborough sire, going back eight or nine years ago now, | 0:42:56 | 0:42:59 | |
-so there's a couple of his granddaughters here in the herd. -Aw! | 0:42:59 | 0:43:02 | |
There's a great Countryfile connection. | 0:43:02 | 0:43:04 | |
And this is quite a sizeable herd, isn't it? | 0:43:04 | 0:43:06 | |
We're running around the 200. | 0:43:06 | 0:43:08 | |
I'd like to keep them all, but where do you stop? | 0:43:08 | 0:43:10 | |
It's true. There's only a limited amount of land. | 0:43:10 | 0:43:12 | |
-They do look fabulous up here, though, don't they? -They do. | 0:43:12 | 0:43:15 | |
They look as if they've always been here, part of the landscape. | 0:43:15 | 0:43:17 | |
They do look magnificent up here, | 0:43:17 | 0:43:19 | |
but these beasts are prizewinners in the show ring, | 0:43:19 | 0:43:22 | |
and Robert's got what he thinks are the next stars in the making. | 0:43:22 | 0:43:26 | |
-Yes, I'll go and get the other girl now. -All right. | 0:43:26 | 0:43:28 | |
But if they're going to make an impression in the ring, | 0:43:28 | 0:43:31 | |
they've got to look the part, | 0:43:31 | 0:43:32 | |
so Robert's starting these newbies with a simple wash and dry. | 0:43:32 | 0:43:36 | |
-Cold water? -Well, yes. | 0:43:36 | 0:43:38 | |
You've got to let them know you're coming up to them. | 0:43:38 | 0:43:41 | |
Bit of a shock. | 0:43:41 | 0:43:42 | |
-Incredibly calm, isn't she? -Yes. That's the breeding. | 0:43:44 | 0:43:47 | |
-That's the breeding. -Would you give them | 0:43:47 | 0:43:49 | |
a full sort of salon treatment before they head off to the show? | 0:43:49 | 0:43:52 | |
As good as, yes. But rustic-style. | 0:43:52 | 0:43:56 | |
-Like this? -That's the way. | 0:43:56 | 0:43:58 | |
'Now for the shampoo.' Just let her know I'm coming. | 0:44:00 | 0:44:04 | |
From the front, let her know you're coming up to her. | 0:44:04 | 0:44:07 | |
Here I am. Here I am. Here I am. | 0:44:07 | 0:44:09 | |
There we go. | 0:44:11 | 0:44:13 | |
What do you get out of showing them? Why do you do it? | 0:44:13 | 0:44:15 | |
You don't necessarily make money out of it, do you? | 0:44:15 | 0:44:18 | |
It's a busman's holiday. | 0:44:18 | 0:44:19 | |
It's catching up with fellow farmers and like-minded people, | 0:44:19 | 0:44:22 | |
and we're proud of the cattle, | 0:44:22 | 0:44:24 | |
so we're going to do our best to show them off. | 0:44:24 | 0:44:26 | |
-A nice sort of massage, there. -It does. It sedates them. | 0:44:26 | 0:44:30 | |
And for the full salon treatment, | 0:44:30 | 0:44:33 | |
it's a quick blow-dry with the "livestock hairdryer". | 0:44:33 | 0:44:36 | |
AIR WHOOSHES | 0:44:36 | 0:44:39 | |
How's that? | 0:44:39 | 0:44:40 | |
-There we go. -Thank you. | 0:44:44 | 0:44:47 | |
You see how it lifts the coat up? | 0:44:49 | 0:44:51 | |
-The full blow dry! -Yes. -It's really fluffy now. -Yes. -She looks fabulous. | 0:44:51 | 0:44:56 | |
You are welcome. | 0:44:56 | 0:44:58 | |
Keeping Longhorn cattle is proving to be a bit of a success story here. | 0:45:00 | 0:45:05 | |
They're not only highly prized at shows - they're tasty meat, too. | 0:45:05 | 0:45:09 | |
-So you've got your own butchery here, then? -Yes, we have. | 0:45:10 | 0:45:13 | |
-It's a little gem, isn't it? -It's fantastic. | 0:45:13 | 0:45:16 | |
And once you have butchered your own pieces, where do you sell them? | 0:45:16 | 0:45:19 | |
We depend a lot on farmers' markets locally and up the M4 corridor, | 0:45:19 | 0:45:23 | |
we do food festivals around the country... | 0:45:23 | 0:45:25 | |
And Longhorns are pretty rare, then, out there? | 0:45:25 | 0:45:27 | |
It's something a bit different, so it adds a bit of value, then, | 0:45:27 | 0:45:30 | |
-because people want to try it as they've heard a bit about it. -Yes. | 0:45:30 | 0:45:34 | |
I'm going to have a go, see if I can learn what I need to do. | 0:45:34 | 0:45:36 | |
So what are the different cuts that you can get from beef? | 0:45:36 | 0:45:39 | |
Well, when you start off with a hindquarter, you've got the fillet, | 0:45:39 | 0:45:42 | |
the sirloin, the rump, then you're working up to the joints, | 0:45:42 | 0:45:46 | |
the silverside, the top rump, or thick flank, as some people call it. | 0:45:46 | 0:45:50 | |
It's quite a skill to produce these cuts of meat. | 0:45:50 | 0:45:53 | |
Fortunately, I'm only being let loose on a couple of steaks. | 0:45:53 | 0:45:56 | |
So, Rob, what is it that makes the taste of the Longhorn so good? | 0:45:56 | 0:46:00 | |
It's the marbling in the old native breeds which adds to the cooking, | 0:46:00 | 0:46:03 | |
and I always joke you can kill it twice and it still tastes good. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:07 | |
SHE LAUGHS | 0:46:07 | 0:46:08 | |
-What cut is this, now? -Sirloin steak. | 0:46:08 | 0:46:10 | |
-Sirloin, that sounds good. -There we are. Just watch your fingers. | 0:46:10 | 0:46:13 | |
All right. How thick? How wide? | 0:46:13 | 0:46:14 | |
-How do you like it? -Yeah. -About there? -That's fine. -There we go. | 0:46:15 | 0:46:19 | |
-That's a nice steak, there. -That is. | 0:46:19 | 0:46:21 | |
How about that? Oh! Look at the colouring in there. | 0:46:23 | 0:46:25 | |
That's pretty fabulous, isn't it? | 0:46:25 | 0:46:28 | |
-How about that? -Lovely. Lovely. | 0:46:28 | 0:46:31 | |
All we need to do now is cook it. | 0:46:31 | 0:46:33 | |
Probably the best steak in the world. | 0:46:41 | 0:46:43 | |
-Nearly ready? It's looking good, isn't it? -We'll give it a go. | 0:46:46 | 0:46:49 | |
Shall we serve it up? Let's get a plate. | 0:46:49 | 0:46:52 | |
-And then...crack on! -Give it a go. -How about that? | 0:46:52 | 0:46:58 | |
-Will you join me? -Please. Thank you. -Come on, then. | 0:46:58 | 0:47:01 | |
Let's give this a try. Ooh, wow. It cuts pretty smoothly, doesn't it? | 0:47:01 | 0:47:05 | |
I hardly ever eat meat, you know. | 0:47:05 | 0:47:07 | |
I only ever save it for the good stuff. | 0:47:07 | 0:47:09 | |
I'll let you have a go on that one, then. | 0:47:09 | 0:47:11 | |
Oh, wow. That melts. Mm. | 0:47:11 | 0:47:15 | |
SHE LAUGHS | 0:47:15 | 0:47:17 | |
The village of Cwm Gwaun, in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. | 0:47:27 | 0:47:31 | |
In this remote Welsh valley, it feels as if time has stood still. | 0:47:31 | 0:47:36 | |
And, in a kind of way, it has, because here the past plays | 0:47:36 | 0:47:39 | |
an important part in modern everyday life. | 0:47:39 | 0:47:42 | |
And in the local school, | 0:47:42 | 0:47:44 | |
children are brought up to respect the old traditions. | 0:47:44 | 0:47:48 | |
Enfys Howells is head teacher of the tiny school | 0:47:52 | 0:47:55 | |
at the heart of this deep valley. | 0:47:55 | 0:47:57 | |
Well, this is the school motto, Enfys, isn't it, in Welsh? | 0:47:59 | 0:48:02 | |
Can you translate it for me, please? | 0:48:02 | 0:48:03 | |
The roots of the past are the branches of the future. | 0:48:03 | 0:48:06 | |
Gwreiddiau'r gorffennol canghennau'r dyfodol. | 0:48:06 | 0:48:10 | |
And is that very true in this valley? | 0:48:10 | 0:48:12 | |
Yes, very much so, because most of the people that live here | 0:48:12 | 0:48:15 | |
have lived here all their lives. | 0:48:15 | 0:48:17 | |
We're on the fourth generation of my family to come to this school. | 0:48:17 | 0:48:22 | |
Even if you move away, you've always got Gwaun Valley in your heart. | 0:48:22 | 0:48:26 | |
And so there's no danger, | 0:48:26 | 0:48:27 | |
really, in this valley losing its character, losing its people? | 0:48:27 | 0:48:31 | |
Never - we wouldn't let it! | 0:48:31 | 0:48:33 | |
And there is one very special tradition around here | 0:48:33 | 0:48:36 | |
-that doesn't really happen anywhere else? -No, definitely. | 0:48:36 | 0:48:40 | |
There's a very special tradition. | 0:48:40 | 0:48:42 | |
-ALL: -Blwyddyn Newydd Dda! | 0:48:42 | 0:48:45 | |
Happy New Year! | 0:48:45 | 0:48:48 | |
Well, that might sound a little strange, | 0:48:48 | 0:48:50 | |
but here in the Gwaun Valley, it's perfectly normal, | 0:48:50 | 0:48:52 | |
because when it comes to celebrating New Year, they've been | 0:48:52 | 0:48:55 | |
out of step with the rest of us for more than 250 years now. | 0:48:55 | 0:49:00 | |
That's because they still follow the Julian calendar, | 0:49:00 | 0:49:03 | |
which was in common use everywhere | 0:49:03 | 0:49:05 | |
until it was replaced by the Gregorian calendar in 1752. | 0:49:05 | 0:49:10 | |
So when it comes to New Year, we celebrate it, obviously, | 0:49:10 | 0:49:14 | |
on 1st January, but here in the Gwaun Valley | 0:49:14 | 0:49:17 | |
following the Julian calendar, | 0:49:17 | 0:49:19 | |
for them, New Year doesn't start until the 13th. | 0:49:19 | 0:49:22 | |
No-one knows local tradition and folklore | 0:49:27 | 0:49:30 | |
better than historian Brian John. | 0:49:30 | 0:49:33 | |
Of course, it all goes back many centuries, doesn't it, to the Pope | 0:49:33 | 0:49:36 | |
wanting to rearrange the calendar to fit in better with festivities. | 0:49:36 | 0:49:41 | |
Yes, Pope Gregory, in the 16th century, wanted to get the calendar | 0:49:41 | 0:49:46 | |
regularised in some way, because it was a little chaotic, | 0:49:46 | 0:49:49 | |
partly related to the problems of fixing the date of Easter. | 0:49:49 | 0:49:53 | |
When he introduced the Gregorian calendar, | 0:49:53 | 0:49:55 | |
it was much more accurate than the old one, which had a rather | 0:49:55 | 0:49:58 | |
unfortunate habit of losing three days every few centuries. | 0:49:58 | 0:50:02 | |
But why was it, do you think, | 0:50:02 | 0:50:03 | |
that just here, in this small little valley, they refused to change? | 0:50:03 | 0:50:08 | |
BRIAN CHUCKLES | 0:50:08 | 0:50:09 | |
I suspect there might have been a few other parts of Britain that were | 0:50:09 | 0:50:12 | |
reluctant as well, but the old story is, of course, that people | 0:50:12 | 0:50:15 | |
were very worried about losing 11 days of pay or whatever. | 0:50:15 | 0:50:20 | |
It's a little bit of a myth, that, I think. | 0:50:20 | 0:50:21 | |
Maybe it's more that they just wanted to stay with the old ways. | 0:50:21 | 0:50:25 | |
I suspect so, yes. | 0:50:25 | 0:50:27 | |
Has Easter shifted as well, and other celebrations? | 0:50:27 | 0:50:30 | |
No, they keep everything else. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:32 | |
Hen Galan is the big celebration. | 0:50:32 | 0:50:35 | |
And, of course, there's the tradition of the calennig, | 0:50:35 | 0:50:38 | |
from the original Latin root of the word meaning to call, | 0:50:38 | 0:50:42 | |
because in the early days, the first day of every month was announced | 0:50:42 | 0:50:46 | |
in the community, because people were not very good at remembering dates. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:50 | |
-ALL: -Blwyddyn Newydd Dda! | 0:50:50 | 0:50:53 | |
Happy New Year. Blwyddyn Newydd Dda. | 0:50:56 | 0:50:58 | |
Children from the valley travel up to 18 miles from house to house, | 0:50:58 | 0:51:02 | |
serenading local residents with traditional Welsh songs. | 0:51:02 | 0:51:06 | |
In return, they receive their calennig - or New Year gifts - | 0:51:06 | 0:51:10 | |
of sweets, fruit and money. | 0:51:10 | 0:51:12 | |
-ALL: -# Rhowch yn hael i'r rhai gwael | 0:51:12 | 0:51:16 | |
# Pawb sy'n ffyddlon i roi rhoddion... | 0:51:16 | 0:51:19 | |
-What do you like best about Hen Galan? -The singing. | 0:51:19 | 0:51:25 | |
-And we get money. -What do you spend your money on? -To have a tractor. | 0:51:25 | 0:51:30 | |
When you go out singing, do you go in all weathers? | 0:51:30 | 0:51:34 | |
We'll always go round, because it's so special to us, | 0:51:34 | 0:51:37 | |
so it doesn't matter what the weather is - | 0:51:37 | 0:51:40 | |
if there's rain or even if it's boiling hot, but we always go out. | 0:51:40 | 0:51:44 | |
And I've got some pictures here of when it was really snowing. | 0:51:44 | 0:51:48 | |
It was massive - about 12 feet, 10 feet. | 0:51:48 | 0:51:51 | |
And what happens when you've finished all your singing? | 0:51:51 | 0:51:55 | |
We go home and then about seven o'clock we go down to the hotel, | 0:51:55 | 0:51:59 | |
down the road in Gellifawr, and have a little party there. | 0:51:59 | 0:52:04 | |
THEY SING IN WELSH | 0:52:04 | 0:52:08 | |
And it's not just children who celebrate. For grown-ups, | 0:52:13 | 0:52:17 | |
the spirit of Hen Galan has for many years been home-brewed beer. | 0:52:17 | 0:52:22 | |
Hedd Davies's family recipe has helped welcome in | 0:52:22 | 0:52:26 | |
the festivities for generations. | 0:52:26 | 0:52:28 | |
-Well, this is it, then - the special Hen Galan brew. -Yes. Yes, certainly. | 0:52:28 | 0:52:32 | |
-How strong is it, any idea? -Well, it's a lot stronger | 0:52:32 | 0:52:36 | |
than what you get in the pub. THEY LAUGH | 0:52:36 | 0:52:39 | |
Well, I won't sip it yet, then. | 0:52:39 | 0:52:41 | |
-You turn your kitchen into the brewery? -Yes. -To make this. | 0:52:41 | 0:52:45 | |
-Where did you get this from? -Well, this was my grandmother's boiler. | 0:52:45 | 0:52:48 | |
-Really? -Yes. She used to do it years ago, and when she left this house, | 0:52:48 | 0:52:52 | |
she left the boiler, so I had to carry on. | 0:52:52 | 0:52:54 | |
I can remember my grandmother having something like this. | 0:52:54 | 0:52:57 | |
-I think she boiled clothes in it, didn't make beer. -Ah! | 0:52:57 | 0:53:01 | |
First, malt is poured into the water | 0:53:01 | 0:53:03 | |
sourced from a well on the family farm. | 0:53:03 | 0:53:06 | |
And how important do you reckon it is to be using the local water? | 0:53:06 | 0:53:10 | |
I think it's a vital ingredient. It is water straight off the Preselis. | 0:53:10 | 0:53:14 | |
Now you can use my grandmother's spoon. | 0:53:16 | 0:53:19 | |
-A good old beer-stirring spoon. -Yes. | 0:53:19 | 0:53:22 | |
'Next, a special something is needed to strain the hops.' | 0:53:22 | 0:53:25 | |
Get my sock... | 0:53:25 | 0:53:27 | |
-A sock?! -A sock, yeah. | 0:53:27 | 0:53:29 | |
My grandmother used to use an old stocking to put the hops in. | 0:53:29 | 0:53:33 | |
I use a sock. | 0:53:33 | 0:53:34 | |
'Bring back to the boil for 40 minutes. | 0:53:35 | 0:53:38 | |
'After it's cooled overnight, yeast is added, | 0:53:38 | 0:53:41 | |
'and in two weeks, it'll be ready to drink.' | 0:53:41 | 0:53:44 | |
-That is very nice, isn't it? It's a very thick taste. -Mm. | 0:53:44 | 0:53:47 | |
-It's more, to me, like an ale than a beer. -Yeah, it would be. | 0:53:47 | 0:53:51 | |
A very dark, strong ale. | 0:53:51 | 0:53:53 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:53:53 | 0:53:55 | |
-Happy Hen Galan. -Iechyd da! -Iechyd da! | 0:53:55 | 0:53:59 | |
-ALL: -# Dydd i roddi, dydd i dderbyn | 0:53:59 | 0:54:02 | |
# Yw y trydydd dydd ar ddeg o'r flwyddyn | 0:54:02 | 0:54:06 | |
# Rhowch yn hael... # | 0:54:06 | 0:54:07 | |
Ah, how lovely, singing in the New Year! Just a few days late. | 0:54:07 | 0:54:10 | |
And now we've got to readjust our time machines, Ellie, | 0:54:10 | 0:54:14 | |
because we're leaving the Gwaun Valley in North Pembrokeshire, | 0:54:14 | 0:54:17 | |
and next week we're going to be in Worcestershire, | 0:54:17 | 0:54:20 | |
where Matt will be exploring the remains of one of England's | 0:54:20 | 0:54:23 | |
finest country homes that was destroyed by fire in 1937. | 0:54:23 | 0:54:27 | |
And Helen will be with a woodland nature detective, | 0:54:27 | 0:54:30 | |
seeking out bugs, slugs and shrews. Not easy to say. See you next time. | 0:54:30 | 0:54:35 | |
-And hwyl fawr. That's goodbye in Welsh. -Goodbye. | 0:54:35 | 0:54:38 | |
-ALL: -# Yw'r rhai hynny sydd yn cael. # | 0:54:38 | 0:54:41 | |
Blwyddyn Newydd Dda! | 0:54:41 | 0:54:43 |