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This is Holderness, in East Yorkshire - | 0:00:28 | 0:00:32 | |
a restless edge, where the battle | 0:00:32 | 0:00:34 | |
between land and sea | 0:00:34 | 0:00:36 | |
has raged for centuries. | 0:00:36 | 0:00:38 | |
And nowhere more so than here, Spurn Point, | 0:00:38 | 0:00:41 | |
separating the Humber | 0:00:41 | 0:00:44 | |
from the North Sea. | 0:00:44 | 0:00:45 | |
Or should we now call it Spurn Island? | 0:00:45 | 0:00:47 | |
Because constant battering by the sea has finally broken through, | 0:00:47 | 0:00:52 | |
to give us the country's newest island. | 0:00:52 | 0:00:54 | |
And that's changed the game | 0:00:57 | 0:00:58 | |
for these guys. | 0:00:58 | 0:00:59 | |
He's a good 'un. Shall we sign him up? | 0:01:01 | 0:01:03 | |
MATT LAUGHS | 0:01:03 | 0:01:04 | |
I'm enjoying myself! | 0:01:04 | 0:01:06 | |
Back on dry land, Anita's keeping tabs on our feathered friends. | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
Is the little fella all right? He's not too distressed? | 0:01:09 | 0:01:11 | |
No, he's got to go off and feed now, | 0:01:11 | 0:01:13 | |
-before he goes further north to breed. -Right. Off you go! -Good luck! | 0:01:13 | 0:01:17 | |
Tom explores an astonishing situation in the Netherlands, | 0:01:21 | 0:01:25 | |
where dairy cows are being culled to reduce slurry. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:28 | |
How will you survive without... With fewer cows? | 0:01:28 | 0:01:31 | |
In the worst case, I can't survive. | 0:01:31 | 0:01:32 | |
-You think it could really be that serious? -Yes. | 0:01:32 | 0:01:37 | |
And Adam's on the lookout for some prize White Parks. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:40 | |
They have a very special place in my heart. Over the years, | 0:01:42 | 0:01:44 | |
I've been through a lot with these animals and they are a fantastic, | 0:01:44 | 0:01:48 | |
ancient British breed. | 0:01:48 | 0:01:50 | |
Holderness, | 0:02:01 | 0:02:02 | |
East Yorkshire. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:04 | |
Known for its rich farmland, | 0:02:04 | 0:02:06 | |
its ever-changing coast... | 0:02:06 | 0:02:09 | |
where vast skies sweep across wide, flat acres. | 0:02:09 | 0:02:13 | |
I'm just 30 miles from Hull, this year's City of Culture, | 0:02:15 | 0:02:19 | |
in the far east of the county, | 0:02:19 | 0:02:21 | |
at Spurn Point. | 0:02:21 | 0:02:22 | |
At just three and a half miles long | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
by 60 yards wide, | 0:02:26 | 0:02:27 | |
this spit of land has always been | 0:02:27 | 0:02:29 | |
vulnerable to the elements. | 0:02:29 | 0:02:30 | |
It's been battered by gales, | 0:02:33 | 0:02:34 | |
lashed by waves | 0:02:34 | 0:02:36 | |
and, slowly, bit by bit, | 0:02:36 | 0:02:37 | |
it's been swallowed up by the sea. | 0:02:37 | 0:02:40 | |
And what was Spurn Point | 0:02:40 | 0:02:42 | |
is now Spurn Island. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:45 | |
The huge storm surge back in December 2013 | 0:02:46 | 0:02:50 | |
ripped through Spurn Peninsula at its narrowest point. | 0:02:50 | 0:02:54 | |
Huge chunks of road were washed away. | 0:02:54 | 0:02:57 | |
The coastline changed forever | 0:02:57 | 0:02:59 | |
and wildlife habitats | 0:02:59 | 0:03:01 | |
were devastated. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:02 | |
Spurn Point was cut off from the rest of the peninsula. | 0:03:04 | 0:03:07 | |
Now, at high tide, it becomes an island. | 0:03:07 | 0:03:10 | |
The UK's newest. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:12 | |
'Andy Gibson, from the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust, | 0:03:12 | 0:03:15 | |
'witnessed the aftermath.' | 0:03:15 | 0:03:17 | |
The disruption and the mess must have been awful. | 0:03:17 | 0:03:21 | |
It was not the familiar. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:23 | |
You know, we went to bed having a road here | 0:03:23 | 0:03:25 | |
and having mobile dunes and grasses, and we came back | 0:03:25 | 0:03:29 | |
and the shoreline had moved 70 metres into the estuary. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:33 | |
So, that's the landscape changed. It's just incredible. | 0:03:33 | 0:03:35 | |
So, did it look like that, basically? We can see the, sort of, | 0:03:35 | 0:03:38 | |
-grassy dune on the sandbank on the side... -Yes. -..with the road | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
that we have just come along. And that was this, was it? | 0:03:41 | 0:03:43 | |
That was all this, with this type of road, which was cobbling, | 0:03:43 | 0:03:46 | |
-made up of blocks. -This is the old road? -That is the old road blocks. | 0:03:46 | 0:03:49 | |
-Goodness me. The power of the sea. That's incredible. -Phenomenal power. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:52 | |
Wildlife took a hit, too. The storm battered | 0:03:55 | 0:03:58 | |
important feeding and breeding grounds for wetland birds. | 0:03:58 | 0:04:01 | |
But the picture is different today. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
'Andy is taking me to Kilnsea Wetlands | 0:04:06 | 0:04:09 | |
'Nature Reserve, where the bird populations have bounced back.' | 0:04:09 | 0:04:12 | |
More than 100,000 migratory waders have been | 0:04:12 | 0:04:15 | |
recorded here in the last 12 months. | 0:04:15 | 0:04:18 | |
What bird species do you see using this wetland? | 0:04:18 | 0:04:21 | |
In the winter, there's the knot, the redshank, the dunlin, | 0:04:21 | 0:04:25 | |
the oystercatchers, grey plovers. | 0:04:25 | 0:04:27 | |
There's a whole range of wading birds that use | 0:04:27 | 0:04:29 | |
this part of the Humber. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:31 | |
At this time of year, in April, | 0:04:31 | 0:04:33 | |
there is the avocets coming to breed. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:36 | |
-Can we see some now? -We can. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:38 | |
You can see there | 0:04:38 | 0:04:40 | |
-they are all lined up. -I can. There they are. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:42 | |
This is a good breeding point for them. It's undisturbed. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
-What happened to this landscape after the surge? -The unexpected part | 0:04:45 | 0:04:49 | |
was it filled it up with water, but then, with the pressure of water, | 0:04:49 | 0:04:52 | |
it opened up land drains that were existing from its previous usage. | 0:04:52 | 0:04:56 | |
And it just about drained the place. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:58 | |
So, the habitat wasn't ideal for avocets, | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
from the point of view of being isolated islands and spits, | 0:05:01 | 0:05:04 | |
and the predators and the disturbance | 0:05:04 | 0:05:07 | |
was much greater for them. | 0:05:07 | 0:05:09 | |
Now the water's back in, | 0:05:09 | 0:05:10 | |
they have got an isolated spit to breed on and, hopefully, | 0:05:10 | 0:05:13 | |
they will have a little bit more success. | 0:05:13 | 0:05:16 | |
Now there is no road to drive on, | 0:05:17 | 0:05:19 | |
you need a special type of vehicle to get around. | 0:05:19 | 0:05:22 | |
All aboard, everyone! | 0:05:22 | 0:05:24 | |
Meet the Unimog. | 0:05:24 | 0:05:27 | |
The elements have always taken a toll on this fragile landscape | 0:05:29 | 0:05:34 | |
and always will. | 0:05:34 | 0:05:36 | |
But there are other threats. | 0:05:36 | 0:05:38 | |
Man-made threats, but ones we can do something about. | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
That's precisely what this bunch are up to. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:46 | |
Steve Crawford is from the environmental group | 0:05:47 | 0:05:50 | |
Surfers Against Sewage, | 0:05:50 | 0:05:51 | |
here to give the Spurn Peninsula a big spring clean. | 0:05:51 | 0:05:55 | |
-All right, Steve? -Hello, there. -Look at that. How am I doing? | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
-Absolutely fantastic. That's loads there. -Not bad, is it? | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
Is this the best time of year to be doing these beach cleans? | 0:06:01 | 0:06:04 | |
To be honest, any time of year is good, | 0:06:04 | 0:06:06 | |
because in the winter, we get marine litter. In the summer, | 0:06:06 | 0:06:08 | |
on the beach, we tend to get a lot more tourist litter | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
just left every day-to-day. The thing is, we've been doing this | 0:06:11 | 0:06:13 | |
for decades. It's not going to be solved overnight. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:15 | |
We want plastic-free coastlines. It will involve people like ourselves | 0:06:15 | 0:06:19 | |
coming down, picking litter up whenever it's there. | 0:06:19 | 0:06:21 | |
Once this has gone, it's gone. It won't harm wildlife, | 0:06:21 | 0:06:24 | |
it won't be unsightly, it will be gone and dusted. | 0:06:24 | 0:06:26 | |
And I suppose, if you are out here | 0:06:26 | 0:06:28 | |
-actually seeing what it's doing to our coastlines... -Yeah. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:31 | |
..you're more likely to think twice about the next time you, | 0:06:31 | 0:06:33 | |
-you know, buy a plastic bottle or... -Thing is, when you buy something, | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
don't get a plastic cup, get a reusable cup. | 0:06:36 | 0:06:39 | |
If we don't buy it, people won't produce it. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:41 | |
Simple as that. If we all stopped | 0:06:41 | 0:06:42 | |
buying plastic bottles on our own, this would become obsolete... | 0:06:42 | 0:06:45 | |
in about five minutes. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:47 | |
In the bag, Steve! In the bag! | 0:06:47 | 0:06:49 | |
-That was for demonstration purposes! -BOTH LAUGH | 0:06:49 | 0:06:52 | |
I've been surfing for almost 40 years now. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:55 | |
We see it every single day | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
and we realise what it's like. We are the, sort of, first line of it. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:01 | |
-Yeah. All right, let's get on with it. There's... -Loads more to do. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
Loads more. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:06 | |
-There you go. Another bit. -Cheers. Thank you. Just what I needed(!) | 0:07:06 | 0:07:09 | |
These wellies are pretty snazzy! | 0:07:13 | 0:07:15 | |
I could do with a pair of those for Countryfile. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:18 | |
There we go. Future presenter. | 0:07:18 | 0:07:19 | |
He's not afraid of the camera, that's for sure. Staring it down. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:23 | |
On we go. Come on. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:28 | |
ANITA LAUGHS | 0:07:28 | 0:07:30 | |
When milk quotas ended two years ago, | 0:07:37 | 0:07:39 | |
some dairy farmers here and across Europe | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
thought the sky was the limit. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:44 | |
But more milk means more muck | 0:07:44 | 0:07:46 | |
and the Netherlands is producing more than it can handle. | 0:07:46 | 0:07:48 | |
Could this be a cautionary tale for us here, too? Here's Tom. | 0:07:48 | 0:07:53 | |
When it comes to farming, | 0:07:57 | 0:07:59 | |
the Netherlands punches way above its weight. | 0:07:59 | 0:08:02 | |
Vegetables, fruit, | 0:08:07 | 0:08:08 | |
flowers, meat and, of course, dairy. | 0:08:08 | 0:08:10 | |
The Dutch do it all. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
The Netherlands exports | 0:08:13 | 0:08:15 | |
nearly 80% of what it produces... | 0:08:15 | 0:08:18 | |
..whereas the UK imports twice as much food as we export. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:23 | |
We Brits are ahead of them in terms of dairy production, but only just. | 0:08:26 | 0:08:30 | |
With 1.7 million dairy cows to our 1.8, | 0:08:30 | 0:08:34 | |
the Dutch herd is snapping at our heels. | 0:08:34 | 0:08:37 | |
But are they doing too much? | 0:08:37 | 0:08:40 | |
Dutch farmers are ambitious. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:43 | |
In 2015, European milk quotas were lifted. It meant production | 0:08:43 | 0:08:48 | |
was no longer restricted. The race was on to milk more cows | 0:08:48 | 0:08:52 | |
and sell more milk all over the world. | 0:08:52 | 0:08:55 | |
The Netherlands national herd increased by 200,000 | 0:08:55 | 0:08:59 | |
in less than two years. And UK production went up, too. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:03 | |
The message to dairy farmers across Europe was simple - | 0:09:03 | 0:09:07 | |
expand. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:08 | |
One farmer who answered that call is Agnes Lensing. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:13 | |
She farms near Emmen, not far from the German border, | 0:09:13 | 0:09:18 | |
with some help from husband Albert, two-year-old Lika | 0:09:18 | 0:09:22 | |
and five-month-old Hiet. | 0:09:22 | 0:09:25 | |
Agnes started with 110 cows | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
and her ambition was to increase to 180. | 0:09:28 | 0:09:32 | |
How did you feel about those growth plans? | 0:09:33 | 0:09:35 | |
I was really excited, because the incentive was that my father | 0:09:35 | 0:09:40 | |
could retire and my husband would quit his job. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:43 | |
So, we would do it all together, with our two little children | 0:09:43 | 0:09:46 | |
-and we were really looking forward to it. -A real family future, | 0:09:46 | 0:09:50 | |
-all based round producing milk here? -Yep. | 0:09:50 | 0:09:53 | |
But Holland has a serious problem. | 0:09:55 | 0:09:59 | |
More cattle mean more muck. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:00 | |
It's normally spread on fields as fertiliser, | 0:10:00 | 0:10:03 | |
because it contains nitrogen and phosphorus. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:07 | |
But too much of either can damage the environment. There are strict | 0:10:07 | 0:10:11 | |
rules limiting phosphates and nitrates within the EU | 0:10:11 | 0:10:14 | |
and each country must stay within their limits. | 0:10:14 | 0:10:18 | |
For us, Brexit means those rules may not be relevant for much longer, | 0:10:18 | 0:10:22 | |
but the environmental impact will remain. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:25 | |
But Dutch farmers have broken those limits. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:30 | |
In effect, farms are overflowing with slurry and there just | 0:10:30 | 0:10:34 | |
isn't enough land to spread it on. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:36 | |
The solution is drastic. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:38 | |
Up to 200,000 cows will have to go | 0:10:38 | 0:10:42 | |
and that means either exporting them or culling them. | 0:10:42 | 0:10:46 | |
It's a bitter blow for farmers like Agnes. | 0:10:46 | 0:10:49 | |
They have been ordered to return herd sizes to what they were | 0:10:49 | 0:10:53 | |
two years ago, when phosphate limits were first breached. | 0:10:53 | 0:10:57 | |
But going back is not easy when you have already invested heavily | 0:10:57 | 0:11:00 | |
in your farm. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:01 | |
Wow. What is this? | 0:11:06 | 0:11:08 | |
This is our milking robot. | 0:11:08 | 0:11:10 | |
How many cows do you think you'll have to lose, in total? | 0:11:11 | 0:11:15 | |
-In total, I have to reduce 50 cows. -50 cows? -50. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:18 | |
How is that loss of cows going to affect your business? | 0:11:18 | 0:11:22 | |
The whole barn itself cost about 1.5 million euros. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:28 | |
So, your whole business is based on milking 180 cows | 0:11:28 | 0:11:32 | |
-and having the money from that to pay back the bank? -Yep. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:35 | |
So, how will you survive, without... With fewer cows? | 0:11:35 | 0:11:39 | |
In the worst case, I can't survive. | 0:11:39 | 0:11:40 | |
-Do you think it really could be that serious? -Yes. | 0:11:40 | 0:11:44 | |
What would you feel about having to give up this job? | 0:11:44 | 0:11:47 | |
Everything I've worked for will disappear. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:51 | |
Everything is for nothing. | 0:11:51 | 0:11:52 | |
Actually, that's exactly what the Dutch Government wants - | 0:11:55 | 0:11:59 | |
fewer farmers. People are even being compensated | 0:11:59 | 0:12:02 | |
to leave the industry. | 0:12:02 | 0:12:04 | |
Too much phosphate pollutes water. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:07 | |
It creates algal blooms, which suffocate plants, insects, | 0:12:07 | 0:12:11 | |
fish, and are even poisonous to humans. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:15 | |
Dutch environmentalists have accused livestock farmers of polluting | 0:12:16 | 0:12:20 | |
around two-thirds of Holland's natural water with slurry. | 0:12:20 | 0:12:23 | |
In the UK, the circumstances may be different, but agriculture | 0:12:26 | 0:12:29 | |
is one of the biggest polluters of our rivers, as well. | 0:12:29 | 0:12:32 | |
How much? It contains about 2% phosphorous, but you can't see it | 0:12:34 | 0:12:39 | |
with the naked eye. So, we're going to do a little experiment. | 0:12:39 | 0:12:42 | |
Martin Albotre works for a public water authority, | 0:12:43 | 0:12:47 | |
which has been removing phosphorous from this lake since the 1980s. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:51 | |
He is going to show me how it's done. Hello, Martin. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:53 | |
Good to see you. I like your lab bench next to the waterside here. | 0:12:53 | 0:12:57 | |
-Good working environment! -'Martin adds iron to river water, | 0:12:57 | 0:13:02 | |
'which binds to the phosphorous, | 0:13:02 | 0:13:04 | |
'forms a sediment and sinks to the bottom of the jar.' | 0:13:04 | 0:13:07 | |
So, this light brown, sugary mixture | 0:13:10 | 0:13:12 | |
is a mixture of iron and phosphorous. It's taken it | 0:13:12 | 0:13:15 | |
-out of the water? -Yep. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:16 | |
And leaving the water clean | 0:13:16 | 0:13:18 | |
and without phosphorous or a lot lower concentration of phosphorous. | 0:13:18 | 0:13:23 | |
'Water companies use a scaled-up version of this process to reduce | 0:13:24 | 0:13:28 | |
'phosphorous in drinking water. While it's an improved picture | 0:13:28 | 0:13:31 | |
'since the 1980s, water still needs to be treated because levels | 0:13:31 | 0:13:35 | |
'are too high.' | 0:13:35 | 0:13:36 | |
How do you know that | 0:13:36 | 0:13:38 | |
the phosphorous in these waterways comes from dairy farming? | 0:13:38 | 0:13:41 | |
Well, actually, there is a lot of agriculture in this area | 0:13:41 | 0:13:45 | |
and we do a monitoring, so we simply know that | 0:13:45 | 0:13:49 | |
the nutrient concentrations come from this agricultural area. | 0:13:49 | 0:13:53 | |
Mm-hm. Is chemistry enough to solve the problem? | 0:13:53 | 0:13:57 | |
Absolutely not. | 0:13:57 | 0:13:58 | |
We also invest in talking to the farmers | 0:13:58 | 0:14:01 | |
and stimulate a more sustainable diary production. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:04 | |
Martin is all for working together, but the Dutch Government | 0:14:06 | 0:14:10 | |
has taken a harsher view. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:11 | |
If the farmers | 0:14:11 | 0:14:12 | |
can't reduce phosphate levels, the consequences for them - | 0:14:12 | 0:14:16 | |
and their cattle - are extremely serious. | 0:14:16 | 0:14:19 | |
British farmers will be watching with interest. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:21 | |
So, what are those consequences and is the industry doing enough | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
to avoid them? That's what I'll be finding out later. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
Spurn Point, | 0:14:36 | 0:14:37 | |
the southern tip of Holderness, is looking glorious today. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
Bright sunshine, vast quiet sands. | 0:14:40 | 0:14:44 | |
But as we have heard from Anita, it can get rough out there. | 0:14:44 | 0:14:47 | |
There has been a lifeboat station on Spurn since 1810. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:52 | |
Now, not only is the Humber a challenging stretch of water, | 0:14:52 | 0:14:56 | |
but just over there, where you can see those waves breaking, | 0:14:56 | 0:14:58 | |
is an area known as Stoney Binks. | 0:14:58 | 0:15:01 | |
Now, it's a large bank of shingle, | 0:15:01 | 0:15:04 | |
and this area of treacherous coastal seabed | 0:15:04 | 0:15:08 | |
had led to the demise of so many ships that, | 0:15:08 | 0:15:11 | |
in the early 19th century, it was deemed essential that | 0:15:11 | 0:15:14 | |
a full-time lifeboat crew was stationed here. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:17 | |
And it's still essential. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:19 | |
The Humber Estuary is one of the busiest stretches of water in | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
Britain, with around 18 million tonnes of shipping passing | 0:15:22 | 0:15:26 | |
Spurn Point last year. | 0:15:26 | 0:15:27 | |
As well as being full-time, the lifeboat crew here | 0:15:27 | 0:15:30 | |
are Britain's only paid crew, too. | 0:15:30 | 0:15:32 | |
Here's my lift. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:35 | |
-Is it Dave? -Hello, Matt. -How are you doing, bud, all right? | 0:15:38 | 0:15:41 | |
-I'm good, I'm good. -Nice to see you. Whoo! | 0:15:41 | 0:15:43 | |
-Are you up for an interesting drive into work? -Yes, please. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:46 | |
-Yeah? -Let's go. | 0:15:46 | 0:15:48 | |
Coxswain Dave Steenvoorden is in charge of the crew | 0:15:52 | 0:15:55 | |
about to go on duty. | 0:15:55 | 0:15:56 | |
Two crews take it in turns, six days on and six days off, | 0:15:56 | 0:16:00 | |
to man the lifeboat station. | 0:16:00 | 0:16:02 | |
I did see a Land Rover come along here just before you picked me up. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:06 | |
-That's... -And that's the crew that are leaving, is it? | 0:16:06 | 0:16:08 | |
-Yeah, that's the off-going crew. -Right. | 0:16:08 | 0:16:10 | |
The on-going crew are already up there. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:11 | |
-They've already come in another Land Rover. -Oh, I see. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:14 | |
-And this is the end of the road. -Oh, my word. | 0:16:14 | 0:16:15 | |
We're coming up now... | 0:16:15 | 0:16:17 | |
This next section here, you can see, | 0:16:17 | 0:16:18 | |
all to the eye going up there is just...is beach. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:21 | |
The big storm surge of 2013 destroyed the road - | 0:16:23 | 0:16:26 | |
Dave caught the aftermath on camera. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:29 | |
Spurn Point massively gets under your skin, | 0:16:29 | 0:16:31 | |
and, I'm being honest with you, it's under mine, and it's... | 0:16:31 | 0:16:34 | |
it's got me until the day I retire. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:36 | |
I'm probably one of the most fortunate guys in the country. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:40 | |
-Here's the lighthouse, then. -There's the lighthouse, yeah. | 0:16:42 | 0:16:45 | |
You can go up there and you can get a beautiful view of Spurn Point. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
-What a place. -Yeah. | 0:16:54 | 0:16:56 | |
And it does come through three miles of wilderness, | 0:16:56 | 0:16:58 | |
and then, all of a sudden, you're into a small hamlet. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:01 | |
Yeah. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:02 | |
You know, there's not many people who get to come to work like this. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:07 | |
MATT LAUGHS | 0:17:07 | 0:17:09 | |
Well, here we are, then. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:11 | |
Here we are. I'll get you a cup of tea. | 0:17:11 | 0:17:14 | |
'While Dave puts the kettle on, RNLI volunteer Steve Gibbons is | 0:17:15 | 0:17:19 | |
'showing me the kit I'll need if the alarm goes off - | 0:17:19 | 0:17:22 | |
'just in case.' | 0:17:22 | 0:17:23 | |
-Yeah. -Right, what have we got, then? | 0:17:23 | 0:17:25 | |
-So there is some steel-toe-cap wellies... -Mm-hmm. | 0:17:25 | 0:17:28 | |
..and, erm, obviously, over-trousers. | 0:17:28 | 0:17:30 | |
-Yeah. Oh, they've got braces on, have they? -Yeah, braces. -Oh, I see. | 0:17:30 | 0:17:33 | |
-Jacket, helmet... -Mm-hmm. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:35 | |
..and, most importantly of all, don't forget the life jacket. | 0:17:35 | 0:17:38 | |
-That's weighty, isn't it? -That is quite weighty, | 0:17:38 | 0:17:41 | |
but it will also inflate if you hit the water. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:43 | |
It carries a flare as well. | 0:17:43 | 0:17:44 | |
And your kit is always ready to go, yeah? | 0:17:44 | 0:17:46 | |
Yeah, it's always like this - | 0:17:46 | 0:17:47 | |
in everybody's house, it's ready to go. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:48 | |
-There will be a drill, I believe, this afternoon, so... -OK. | 0:17:48 | 0:17:51 | |
Which, no doubt, I'm going to be involved in? | 0:17:51 | 0:17:53 | |
-Yeah, that'll be brilliant. -That's the idea. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:55 | |
-Yeah, so, when you hear the bell... -Yeah? | 0:17:55 | 0:17:57 | |
..get your kit on and get down the jetty as quick as you can. | 0:17:57 | 0:17:59 | |
Back in 1819, nine years after the station first opened, | 0:18:02 | 0:18:07 | |
a terrace of houses was completed, which would become the | 0:18:07 | 0:18:11 | |
full-time homes for the lifeboatmen and their families. | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
On this lonely strip of coast, a tiny and very special | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
community flourished, complete with schoolhouse, | 0:18:18 | 0:18:22 | |
and life here revolved around the lifeboat service. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:26 | |
For close to two centuries, lifeboat families lived their lives on Spurn, | 0:18:26 | 0:18:30 | |
including those of the current crew members, | 0:18:30 | 0:18:33 | |
but, eventually, the elements got the better of them, | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
and the families had to move off. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:37 | |
-So, Dave, this was a... This was a permanent hamlet, then? -Yeah. | 0:18:39 | 0:18:42 | |
What was life like here? | 0:18:42 | 0:18:44 | |
It was fantastic. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:45 | |
We just say, "What nicer place you could actually live?" | 0:18:45 | 0:18:48 | |
-I used to live here at number one with my family. -Right. | 0:18:48 | 0:18:50 | |
When you say your family, how many children? | 0:18:50 | 0:18:52 | |
-I've got my wife and twin boys. -OK. | 0:18:52 | 0:18:54 | |
When we moved here, they was eight-year-old, | 0:18:54 | 0:18:56 | |
and it's an absolutely fantastic playground for kids. | 0:18:56 | 0:19:00 | |
-And the atmosphere here now must be very, very different. -Oh, yeah. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:03 | |
The decision was made long before we lost the road... | 0:19:03 | 0:19:06 | |
It's that life became very difficult. | 0:19:06 | 0:19:08 | |
You couldn't get the kids to school. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:09 | |
We had times where the road was covered in debris, | 0:19:09 | 0:19:12 | |
and the RNLI made a very bold decision to move the families off. | 0:19:12 | 0:19:16 | |
We'd been here 200 years, | 0:19:16 | 0:19:17 | |
and it was a bold decision. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:19 | |
I didn't like it, | 0:19:19 | 0:19:20 | |
but I did agree with it and I did support it, | 0:19:20 | 0:19:22 | |
and, as it turned out, a year after we'd moved off, | 0:19:22 | 0:19:24 | |
-it was the absolute right thing to do. -Yeah. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:27 | |
And one of the strangest things is, now, is... | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
cos the kids were running round making so much noise, | 0:19:29 | 0:19:32 | |
nature was out. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:33 | |
Now nature's actually coming into the station, | 0:19:33 | 0:19:36 | |
and we've got our own little friend, Basil the fox. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:38 | |
He's adopted us. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:39 | |
He knows when we're having our lunch, | 0:19:39 | 0:19:41 | |
he knows when we're having our tea, | 0:19:41 | 0:19:42 | |
and, as soon as he hears the galley noise, he's there. | 0:19:42 | 0:19:45 | |
Yeah, we've got absolute extremes of craziness when we're out on the | 0:19:46 | 0:19:49 | |
lifeboat and other things, | 0:19:49 | 0:19:51 | |
and then you come back to the complete opposite, | 0:19:51 | 0:19:53 | |
-where you can just put your feet up and watch the ships go by. -Yeah. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:56 | |
Go and take some photographs... So, it's... Yeah, it's... | 0:19:56 | 0:19:58 | |
It's that, I think, from one end of the spectrum to the other, | 0:19:58 | 0:20:01 | |
is what I really do enjoy. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:03 | |
So, Dave, you've talked about the affection that you had | 0:20:03 | 0:20:06 | |
-for the community here. -Yeah. | 0:20:06 | 0:20:07 | |
Just take me back to that day when you had to leave and move out. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:11 | |
It was a terrible day. We had the removal van in. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:14 | |
We kind of looked at each other and I says, | 0:20:14 | 0:20:16 | |
"Karen, come on, let's just go." | 0:20:16 | 0:20:17 | |
So we got in the car and we drove up, didn't look over our shoulders - | 0:20:17 | 0:20:20 | |
I know if we'd looked over our shoulders, | 0:20:20 | 0:20:22 | |
we would have gone to pieces. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:23 | |
But the nice thing was, as we were driving away, | 0:20:23 | 0:20:25 | |
I knew in six days' time I was coming back again. | 0:20:25 | 0:20:28 | |
And... And to come back to the same house... | 0:20:28 | 0:20:30 | |
was quite strange, just to walk into quite a sterile house, erm, | 0:20:30 | 0:20:35 | |
which is now just functional rather than a home. | 0:20:35 | 0:20:37 | |
And how would you compare your life when you are not at work | 0:20:37 | 0:20:41 | |
to when you are? | 0:20:41 | 0:20:42 | |
Erm... | 0:20:42 | 0:20:43 | |
Boring. | 0:20:43 | 0:20:44 | |
Later, I'll be finding out how Dave and the crew stay one step | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
ahead of Spurn's constantly-shifting channels. | 0:20:50 | 0:20:53 | |
-JOHN: -We've seen how the sea has taken away at Spurn Point. | 0:21:00 | 0:21:03 | |
Here, it's a different story. | 0:21:03 | 0:21:06 | |
The River Humber has given back - | 0:21:06 | 0:21:08 | |
new land has risen from its waters to create Sunk Island. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:12 | |
But the name is misleading, | 0:21:13 | 0:21:15 | |
because Sunk Island is neither sunken nor an island. | 0:21:15 | 0:21:20 | |
But it was once. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:23 | |
Over many centuries, | 0:21:24 | 0:21:25 | |
the ebb and flow of the river caused Sunk Island to silt up, | 0:21:25 | 0:21:29 | |
and then gradually it got bigger and bigger, | 0:21:29 | 0:21:32 | |
and, thanks to human intervention - to reclamation work - | 0:21:32 | 0:21:36 | |
it became part of the mainland. | 0:21:36 | 0:21:38 | |
The wide panoramas and towering skies of Sunk Island | 0:21:41 | 0:21:45 | |
have become the inspiration for a local photographer, Fiona Caley. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:49 | |
The daughter of a Holderness farmer, | 0:21:51 | 0:21:53 | |
Fiona has made it her mission | 0:21:53 | 0:21:56 | |
to record the lives and the landscapes here. | 0:21:56 | 0:21:59 | |
But why do you choose to photograph THIS landscape, Fiona? | 0:22:01 | 0:22:04 | |
It's all lines, the landscape and sky, | 0:22:04 | 0:22:07 | |
and, in some people's eyes, it may not be very beautiful... | 0:22:07 | 0:22:10 | |
-So you like the isolation? -Yes. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:13 | |
You like the bleakness? | 0:22:13 | 0:22:14 | |
If it's foggy, there's a real sense of absolute isolation, | 0:22:14 | 0:22:20 | |
and sometimes you can hear the foghorns coming from the Humber, | 0:22:20 | 0:22:23 | |
and that also adds to the wonderful, magical feel of the landscape. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:29 | |
And how long have you been taking pictures of | 0:22:31 | 0:22:33 | |
this particular landscape? | 0:22:33 | 0:22:35 | |
For the past five years... | 0:22:35 | 0:22:38 | |
Ever since coming back to live on Dad's farm, | 0:22:38 | 0:22:40 | |
and it was then that I began to think, | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
"Well, do you know what? It has got something special." | 0:22:43 | 0:22:45 | |
So, it just felt very, very important to capture it. | 0:22:45 | 0:22:48 | |
When I first saw this view, I thought, | 0:22:57 | 0:23:00 | |
"We could be on the Continent somewhere. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:02 | |
"We could be in the Netherlands." | 0:23:02 | 0:23:03 | |
And I think it was also that sense of, "Yes, it's Holderness, | 0:23:03 | 0:23:07 | |
"it's Sunk Island, but we're still connected to the Continent." | 0:23:07 | 0:23:11 | |
-Like the Netherlands, you know, it wasn't here... -No. | 0:23:11 | 0:23:14 | |
-..until the sea created it. -Yes. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:16 | |
Yes, which it does... | 0:23:16 | 0:23:17 | |
It is, kind of, a strange feeling, really, to think that, | 0:23:17 | 0:23:19 | |
at one time, this wouldn't have been here. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:21 | |
"Newlands" - | 0:23:37 | 0:23:38 | |
presumably that's "Reclaimed Lands Road", do you think? | 0:23:38 | 0:23:42 | |
Yes, I think possibly so. | 0:23:42 | 0:23:44 | |
I just thought what a contrast it was to having this signpost | 0:23:44 | 0:23:47 | |
in the middle of nowhere, | 0:23:47 | 0:23:49 | |
and actually, the lines of the field beyond. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:52 | |
People who look at the photographs, I'm hoping, | 0:23:55 | 0:23:58 | |
will be drawn in towards the horizon. | 0:23:58 | 0:24:01 | |
The lines in this area are just... They're fantastic tools. | 0:24:01 | 0:24:05 | |
It's a dream, for me, as a photographer. | 0:24:09 | 0:24:12 | |
Fiona's passion for this place couldn't be more obvious, | 0:24:14 | 0:24:17 | |
and it's also personal, because she has family connections to this land. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:21 | |
It has some of the most fertile soil in the country, | 0:24:23 | 0:24:25 | |
rich in minerals from the river silt that gradually formed it. | 0:24:25 | 0:24:30 | |
That's why Sunk Island is renowned for its fine, arable crops. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:34 | |
During the Second World War, | 0:24:34 | 0:24:36 | |
this area played a crucial role in the campaign to feed the nation, | 0:24:36 | 0:24:40 | |
but farm labour was in short supply, | 0:24:40 | 0:24:43 | |
so prisoners of war were brought in to fill the gap, | 0:24:43 | 0:24:46 | |
and no-one escaped. | 0:24:46 | 0:24:49 | |
I've come to Sands House Farm to meet someone who | 0:24:49 | 0:24:52 | |
lived through those times and remembers them well. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:55 | |
He's Fiona's second cousin, Albert Caley. | 0:24:55 | 0:24:57 | |
SHEEP BLEAT | 0:24:57 | 0:24:59 | |
Well, Albert, this is the first time you've been back on this farm, | 0:24:59 | 0:25:02 | |
-isn't it? -Yeah. -For how long? | 0:25:02 | 0:25:03 | |
-About 71 years. -Wow. | 0:25:03 | 0:25:05 | |
And this is where you played, where you lived as a little boy... | 0:25:05 | 0:25:08 | |
-Yes, as a little boy. -..during the Second World War? -Yes. | 0:25:08 | 0:25:10 | |
-Were there prisoners of war here? -Yes, there were, | 0:25:10 | 0:25:12 | |
and we had the Italians initially, and they... | 0:25:12 | 0:25:15 | |
And then, after that, the Germans arrived, | 0:25:15 | 0:25:18 | |
and they stayed with us, well, until the end of the war, really. | 0:25:18 | 0:25:21 | |
And what was your father's attitude to these POWs? | 0:25:21 | 0:25:25 | |
Excellent. | 0:25:25 | 0:25:26 | |
In actual fact, we just felt them as just part of the family, really. | 0:25:26 | 0:25:31 | |
They had their own accommodation, just up the road, | 0:25:31 | 0:25:33 | |
and one of them was, obviously, allocated to be the cook. | 0:25:33 | 0:25:37 | |
I mean, there was rabbits and everything, | 0:25:37 | 0:25:39 | |
and there was ducks and chickens and that. | 0:25:39 | 0:25:41 | |
They lived very well. | 0:25:41 | 0:25:42 | |
-Probably better than the people who lived in Hull! -Certainly. | 0:25:42 | 0:25:45 | |
It's interesting, because I hadn't realised that, you know, | 0:25:45 | 0:25:48 | |
people on farms had such a close relationship with prisoners of war. | 0:25:48 | 0:25:51 | |
Yes, because they were just like us. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:53 | |
'Apart from livestock, the grain harvest was the main priority, | 0:25:53 | 0:25:57 | |
'boosted by some of the first combine harvesters.' | 0:25:57 | 0:26:00 | |
I've got a photograph of my father standing beside these four | 0:26:00 | 0:26:03 | |
combine harvesters, and with a trilby hat on, | 0:26:03 | 0:26:06 | |
and he was a man that always wore a trilby hat, I think... | 0:26:06 | 0:26:09 | |
I think the only time he took it off was when he got into bed, and the | 0:26:09 | 0:26:11 | |
first thing he did when he got out of bed was put it back on again. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:14 | |
And I suppose the reason that your dad got these combines | 0:26:14 | 0:26:17 | |
was that the soil here is so rich, | 0:26:17 | 0:26:18 | |
-being reclaimed land, you know? -Yeah. | 0:26:18 | 0:26:20 | |
And when you cut through the land, | 0:26:20 | 0:26:22 | |
you could see the layers of soil, | 0:26:22 | 0:26:25 | |
because that's how it was built - | 0:26:25 | 0:26:27 | |
-silt and silt and silt and silt. -Silt on top of silt. | 0:26:27 | 0:26:29 | |
Seven or eight feet of silt soil, | 0:26:29 | 0:26:32 | |
which is unheard of in most parts of the country. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:34 | |
-And so it was very important for the war effort... -Very. | 0:26:34 | 0:26:37 | |
-..that you had the four combines. -Yes, it is. | 0:26:37 | 0:26:39 | |
The landscape here had its own part to play during the war. | 0:26:41 | 0:26:45 | |
Nearby Hull was the most bombed city in the country after London, | 0:26:45 | 0:26:49 | |
the docks being a major target. | 0:26:49 | 0:26:52 | |
To try to save the docks from the frequent night-time | 0:26:53 | 0:26:56 | |
bomber raids, this area of marshland, | 0:26:56 | 0:26:58 | |
where Sunk Island meets the Humber, | 0:26:58 | 0:27:01 | |
was used as a decoy. | 0:27:01 | 0:27:03 | |
Great fires were made, in huge, rectangular shapes, | 0:27:03 | 0:27:07 | |
to try to convince the Luftwaffe pilots that they were flying | 0:27:07 | 0:27:11 | |
over the burning city, and to drop their bombs here instead. | 0:27:11 | 0:27:15 | |
Today, the shoreline, like the rest of Sunk Island, | 0:27:18 | 0:27:21 | |
is a quiet, very special place. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:23 | |
An island that's not an island - | 0:27:23 | 0:27:26 | |
a gift from nature that has served us well. | 0:27:26 | 0:27:28 | |
On the other side of the North Sea, Tom's in the Netherlands, | 0:27:36 | 0:27:39 | |
exploring a conflict between the expanding dairy industry | 0:27:39 | 0:27:42 | |
and the natural environment, | 0:27:42 | 0:27:44 | |
and asking, "Is there a lesson here for the UK?" | 0:27:44 | 0:27:46 | |
The Netherlands faces an unprecedented crisis - | 0:27:57 | 0:28:01 | |
there are too many cows producing too much poo. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:05 | |
MOOING | 0:28:05 | 0:28:07 | |
Walking down here, you've always got half an eye on the back ends, | 0:28:08 | 0:28:11 | |
to check you're not going to be caught by something, | 0:28:11 | 0:28:13 | |
and underneath here is a tank a little bit bigger than an Olympic | 0:28:13 | 0:28:17 | |
swimming pool, and these girls can fill that up every six months. | 0:28:17 | 0:28:21 | |
This sea of manure contains phosphates, | 0:28:22 | 0:28:25 | |
which can pollute lakes and waterways. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:27 | |
Across Holland, phosphate levels have gone up, | 0:28:27 | 0:28:30 | |
and by far too much. | 0:28:30 | 0:28:31 | |
Hundreds of thousands of cattle will be culled or exported to bring | 0:28:34 | 0:28:38 | |
the problem under control, | 0:28:38 | 0:28:40 | |
and farmers are even being encouraged to leave the industry. | 0:28:40 | 0:28:43 | |
It is an extreme situation. | 0:28:43 | 0:28:45 | |
Despite having more cows in the UK, | 0:28:49 | 0:28:52 | |
we also have more land to cope with the manure they produce. | 0:28:52 | 0:28:56 | |
While British farmers may be spared the same fate, we share many | 0:28:56 | 0:29:00 | |
of the same problems as our neighbours across the North Sea. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:04 | |
So, what can we learn from the Dutch about balancing the needs of | 0:29:04 | 0:29:08 | |
the environment with productive dairy farming? | 0:29:08 | 0:29:11 | |
'In a scene straight out of a postcard, | 0:29:11 | 0:29:14 | |
'I'm meeting Hans van Grinsven - he's a senior scientist at | 0:29:14 | 0:29:18 | |
'the Dutch Environmental Assessment Agency.' | 0:29:18 | 0:29:21 | |
So, do you think it is possible to have both | 0:29:21 | 0:29:24 | |
a growing dairy industry and a healthy environment? | 0:29:24 | 0:29:28 | |
I think it's a balancing act. | 0:29:28 | 0:29:29 | |
I think there's an economical issue, and farming is very | 0:29:29 | 0:29:32 | |
important for the Dutch economy, but the environmental issue is | 0:29:32 | 0:29:36 | |
also there, and where the exact balance is we really don't know. | 0:29:36 | 0:29:39 | |
So that might mean less intensive farming in some areas? | 0:29:39 | 0:29:42 | |
A little less intensive, but good for water equality, | 0:29:42 | 0:29:46 | |
good for air quality, but we need to find a trick to make it also | 0:29:46 | 0:29:50 | |
economically attractive for a farmer to do that. | 0:29:50 | 0:29:52 | |
So, if there were no livestock farming, just arable, | 0:29:52 | 0:29:54 | |
would that solve the problem? | 0:29:54 | 0:29:56 | |
Nope. | 0:29:56 | 0:29:57 | |
I think that would not be the solution, | 0:29:57 | 0:29:59 | |
because as long as you do farming and you spread synthetic fertiliser, | 0:29:59 | 0:30:04 | |
it can do the same thing as manure. | 0:30:04 | 0:30:06 | |
So, this is not just a livestock farmers' problem, | 0:30:08 | 0:30:12 | |
but right now they are the focus. | 0:30:12 | 0:30:14 | |
Holland is reducing cow numbers by up to 200,000 - | 0:30:14 | 0:30:18 | |
a blanket order which affects all farmers who have | 0:30:18 | 0:30:20 | |
expanded their herds since 2015. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:23 | |
Agnes Lensing is one of them - | 0:30:25 | 0:30:28 | |
just a few months ago, she was expanding the farm | 0:30:28 | 0:30:31 | |
she inherited from her father, | 0:30:31 | 0:30:33 | |
and building a bright future for the next generation. | 0:30:33 | 0:30:36 | |
Now she is facing the loss of 50 cows - | 0:30:36 | 0:30:39 | |
that means a lot less milk and less income for her family. | 0:30:39 | 0:30:43 | |
The financial worry is taking its toll. | 0:30:43 | 0:30:46 | |
We have sleepless nights, at this moment, | 0:30:48 | 0:30:50 | |
because there is so much insecurity. | 0:30:50 | 0:30:53 | |
If I had known everything two years ago, erm, I... | 0:30:55 | 0:31:01 | |
I wouldn't have been a farmer at this moment. | 0:31:01 | 0:31:04 | |
It's time to choose which cows are going. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:09 | |
If she doesn't reduce numbers, Agnes will be fined by the Government. | 0:31:09 | 0:31:13 | |
SHE SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE | 0:31:13 | 0:31:16 | |
Another eight young heifers have to go. | 0:31:16 | 0:31:18 | |
MOOING | 0:31:18 | 0:31:19 | |
Are you going to send them for slaughter or will you try and | 0:31:19 | 0:31:23 | |
sell them for export? | 0:31:23 | 0:31:24 | |
I think that they are too young to export... | 0:31:24 | 0:31:26 | |
to export, so I think slaughter is the only option. | 0:31:26 | 0:31:31 | |
It's hard, and I want to keep them, but they have to go. | 0:31:31 | 0:31:35 | |
Do you accept, at all, that Dutch farmers have caused this | 0:31:35 | 0:31:39 | |
problem themselves by growing in the last few years? | 0:31:39 | 0:31:43 | |
No. Everybody says that it's... | 0:31:43 | 0:31:45 | |
it's our own problem, | 0:31:45 | 0:31:46 | |
but all the experts said, everybody said, | 0:31:46 | 0:31:49 | |
"The hunger for milk is very big in the future, | 0:31:49 | 0:31:52 | |
"so please have more cows so you can milk, milk, milk." | 0:31:52 | 0:31:56 | |
But do you accept that there is an environmental problem out there, | 0:31:56 | 0:31:59 | |
with too much phosphate and sometimes nitrate in the waters? | 0:31:59 | 0:32:03 | |
No. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:04 | |
-Really? -No. | 0:32:04 | 0:32:05 | |
'According to Agnes, it's a regional issue, | 0:32:05 | 0:32:08 | |
'affecting some areas more than others. | 0:32:08 | 0:32:10 | |
'Far from producing too much slurry, | 0:32:10 | 0:32:12 | |
'Agnes believes HER land could take even more.' | 0:32:12 | 0:32:16 | |
You really think it's not a problem out there in the Dutch countryside? | 0:32:16 | 0:32:19 | |
Go outside and meet the phosphate in the...in the water here. | 0:32:19 | 0:32:24 | |
-It's OK. -Yeah. | 0:32:24 | 0:32:25 | |
Don't have enough cows to fill my land properly. | 0:32:25 | 0:32:28 | |
So, for you, here, intensive farming is not a problem. | 0:32:28 | 0:32:31 | |
-You've got the land to support it. -Yes. | 0:32:31 | 0:32:33 | |
MOOING | 0:32:33 | 0:32:35 | |
'But this policy applies across the board, | 0:32:35 | 0:32:38 | |
'and Agnes will have to take her share of the pain, | 0:32:38 | 0:32:40 | |
'along with thousands of other Dutch farmers.' | 0:32:40 | 0:32:44 | |
How angry are you about this? | 0:32:44 | 0:32:46 | |
I don't know how to explain, but I'm... | 0:32:49 | 0:32:52 | |
I'm boiling inside. | 0:32:52 | 0:32:54 | |
I'm so angry. | 0:32:54 | 0:32:55 | |
Two years ago, the sky was the limit - | 0:32:59 | 0:33:02 | |
now Dutch dairy farmers have been stopped in their tracks. | 0:33:02 | 0:33:05 | |
It seems bizarre that too much manure can actually threaten | 0:33:07 | 0:33:10 | |
a farming sector in a whole country, | 0:33:10 | 0:33:13 | |
but, in the end, this comes down to that familiar battle | 0:33:13 | 0:33:16 | |
between business and environment - | 0:33:16 | 0:33:18 | |
a tricky balance in many places, including the UK. | 0:33:18 | 0:33:22 | |
Get it wrong, as I've seen here in the Netherlands, | 0:33:22 | 0:33:24 | |
and there's a high price to pay. | 0:33:24 | 0:33:26 | |
Now, they're one of Adam's favourite breeds of cattle, | 0:33:33 | 0:33:36 | |
so, when a friend asked him to help find some prize White Parks, | 0:33:36 | 0:33:40 | |
Adam knew just where to go. | 0:33:40 | 0:33:42 | |
Spring brings a new and fresh chapter to the farming year. | 0:33:48 | 0:33:52 | |
The animals are all looking great, especially the sheep, | 0:33:52 | 0:33:56 | |
our goats, and these guys that I'm particularly proud of - | 0:33:56 | 0:34:01 | |
our White Park cattle. | 0:34:01 | 0:34:03 | |
Once they were a critically-endangered breed, | 0:34:04 | 0:34:06 | |
with less than 60 in the world. | 0:34:06 | 0:34:09 | |
Now, numbers are on the increase, | 0:34:09 | 0:34:10 | |
and there's around 800. | 0:34:10 | 0:34:12 | |
And they have a very special place in my heart. | 0:34:12 | 0:34:15 | |
Over the years, I've been through a lot with these animals, | 0:34:15 | 0:34:18 | |
and they are a fantastic, ancient, British breed. | 0:34:18 | 0:34:21 | |
'White Parks have been part of my life for as long as I can remember - | 0:34:22 | 0:34:26 | |
'from my dad bringing them onto the farm when I was a boy, | 0:34:26 | 0:34:29 | |
'then losing almost half the herd to TB...' | 0:34:29 | 0:34:32 | |
We've lost our stock bull. | 0:34:32 | 0:34:35 | |
-It's hopeless, isn't it? -Dreadful. | 0:34:35 | 0:34:37 | |
'..to happier times, when we replaced the herd.' | 0:34:39 | 0:34:42 | |
This is a fantastic moment for me, | 0:34:42 | 0:34:45 | |
because I was absolutely devastated, as you know, | 0:34:45 | 0:34:49 | |
but you've put it right, and thanks. | 0:34:49 | 0:34:51 | |
A friend of mine is looking to start a herd of White Parks, | 0:34:56 | 0:34:59 | |
and, when it comes to preserving rare breeds, | 0:34:59 | 0:35:02 | |
I think it's important to help out wherever you can. | 0:35:02 | 0:35:04 | |
Because the more people that get interested in them, | 0:35:04 | 0:35:07 | |
the less likely they are to become extinct. | 0:35:07 | 0:35:09 | |
So I'm off to visit a farmer I last bought from six years ago. | 0:35:09 | 0:35:14 | |
When it comes to White Parks, he's one of the best in the business. | 0:35:14 | 0:35:18 | |
-Hi, John. Good to see you again. -And you. -It's been a while. -Six years. | 0:35:20 | 0:35:23 | |
Goodness me. | 0:35:23 | 0:35:25 | |
John Lean has been keeping White Parks at his farm in Devon | 0:35:25 | 0:35:28 | |
for more than 20 years. And his stockman Colin | 0:35:28 | 0:35:31 | |
has separated four beasts for me to have a look at. | 0:35:31 | 0:35:34 | |
My word, look at them all, John! | 0:35:35 | 0:35:37 | |
Well, it's a big shed with a lot of animals in it. | 0:35:37 | 0:35:40 | |
They're lovely-looking cows. | 0:35:44 | 0:35:46 | |
And so different names in their tags - | 0:35:46 | 0:35:48 | |
we've adopted doing that at home since coming to see you last time! | 0:35:48 | 0:35:51 | |
We now write their names on their tags. | 0:35:51 | 0:35:53 | |
-And change the first letter each year. -We do. | 0:35:53 | 0:35:56 | |
-So you've got Ns and Os. -Yes, we have. | 0:35:56 | 0:35:58 | |
Just got to think of enough names beginning with that letter. | 0:35:58 | 0:36:01 | |
When you get to Q, you're in trouble. | 0:36:01 | 0:36:03 | |
OK, can I have a little walk round them, then, have a look? | 0:36:05 | 0:36:08 | |
Please. | 0:36:08 | 0:36:09 | |
So what I want in a White Park cow, in fact in any cow, really, | 0:36:13 | 0:36:18 | |
is a nice straight back, good legs, good mobility, | 0:36:18 | 0:36:22 | |
like a bit of meat covering as well. | 0:36:22 | 0:36:24 | |
But particularly in the White Parks, specifically, | 0:36:24 | 0:36:27 | |
nice dark nose, black ears | 0:36:27 | 0:36:29 | |
and a good head - nice, smart horns. | 0:36:29 | 0:36:33 | |
Don't want them curling back too much or forward too much. | 0:36:33 | 0:36:35 | |
And so this is lovely. She's a perfect animal. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:40 | |
She's perhaps a little bit pale, the one behind. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:43 | |
So I think these four would do very nicely for my friend. | 0:36:43 | 0:36:46 | |
What sort of money are you after, John? | 0:36:46 | 0:36:48 | |
We're talking £1,500. | 0:36:48 | 0:36:51 | |
-That's for the cow that's in calf. -In calf, yes. | 0:36:51 | 0:36:53 | |
OK. Well, I'll report back, and I'm sure that's very acceptable. | 0:36:53 | 0:36:56 | |
That would be good. Thank you. | 0:36:56 | 0:36:58 | |
-Can I have a look round the rest of the herd? -Yes. | 0:36:58 | 0:37:00 | |
They look lovely with the sun on their backs, don't they? | 0:37:06 | 0:37:09 | |
While I'm here, I'm keen to find out from John | 0:37:10 | 0:37:12 | |
how he's created such a top-quality beef herd. | 0:37:12 | 0:37:15 | |
What first got you into breeding them, then, John? | 0:37:17 | 0:37:19 | |
Well, we used to have a dairy herd | 0:37:19 | 0:37:21 | |
and we had to decide whether to develop that or to give up, | 0:37:21 | 0:37:23 | |
-and thankfully we gave up 25 years ago. -Did you? -Yes. | 0:37:23 | 0:37:27 | |
And why White Parks, of all the breeds? | 0:37:27 | 0:37:29 | |
Well, we had a good look at what we were going to choose | 0:37:29 | 0:37:32 | |
and we thought that the White Park was probably an economic breed - | 0:37:32 | 0:37:36 | |
not just a rare breed but an economic one | 0:37:36 | 0:37:38 | |
that we could actually survive with. And we've proved we can do that. | 0:37:38 | 0:37:42 | |
So what are you feeding them on here? | 0:37:42 | 0:37:44 | |
This is silage they have, and that's all they have. | 0:37:44 | 0:37:46 | |
-So no cereals, no hard food. -No, we don't buy in any concentrates. | 0:37:46 | 0:37:50 | |
And then during the spring and summer months, your lovely grass. | 0:37:50 | 0:37:53 | |
-Yes, and they do very well on that. -Never stops growing, does it? -No. | 0:37:53 | 0:37:56 | |
I'm very jealous of your grass! | 0:37:56 | 0:37:59 | |
We have to wait for about three years before we can kill them | 0:38:01 | 0:38:04 | |
-because they are slow-maturing and we don't feed them barley. -Sure. | 0:38:04 | 0:38:07 | |
Whereas the average supermarket trade | 0:38:07 | 0:38:10 | |
is with animals of 12 to 14 months old. | 0:38:10 | 0:38:13 | |
So a big difference. | 0:38:13 | 0:38:15 | |
-That's a long time waiting for the money. -It is, | 0:38:15 | 0:38:17 | |
and my accountant says there's something wrong, | 0:38:17 | 0:38:19 | |
you need to kill them at two years old. | 0:38:19 | 0:38:21 | |
But we can't produce the quality | 0:38:21 | 0:38:24 | |
by doing it in less than three years, | 0:38:24 | 0:38:26 | |
and as such we get a premium for the beef when we sell it. | 0:38:26 | 0:38:29 | |
And in here you've got cows of mixed ages. They live well, don't they? | 0:38:29 | 0:38:32 | |
Yes, yes. The oldest cow in here is 19 years old, Audrey. | 0:38:32 | 0:38:36 | |
-Here we are. -Is this her here? -This is Audrey. Yes. | 0:38:36 | 0:38:38 | |
-How old did you say? -19, she is. | 0:38:38 | 0:38:41 | |
19 years old! And still breeding? | 0:38:41 | 0:38:43 | |
No, to be honest, no. It's been two years since we had a calf from her. | 0:38:43 | 0:38:47 | |
And she's still fit and healthy. | 0:38:47 | 0:38:49 | |
-Goodness me. -And she's a great friend. | 0:38:49 | 0:38:51 | |
She was the first calf that was ever born here. | 0:38:51 | 0:38:53 | |
-What will you do with her, then? Just keep her on? -Keep her on, yes. | 0:38:53 | 0:38:56 | |
Yes. | 0:38:56 | 0:38:57 | |
-She's an old favourite! -She is. We do have | 0:38:57 | 0:38:59 | |
a couple of old favourites and they will stay with us, I think. | 0:38:59 | 0:39:02 | |
Oh, my word! What's this one? | 0:39:07 | 0:39:09 | |
This is Ferdinand. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:11 | |
He's a very old steer that we've kept for years. | 0:39:11 | 0:39:13 | |
-He's a friend. -Aww. Look at his handlebars! | 0:39:13 | 0:39:16 | |
-Yes. They keep growing. -Incredible. | 0:39:16 | 0:39:20 | |
He's lovely, isn't he? | 0:39:20 | 0:39:22 | |
-He's very friendly. -So he's just a pet? | 0:39:22 | 0:39:24 | |
-He is, I'm afraid. -You're a bit of an old softie, John. -I know! | 0:39:24 | 0:39:27 | |
Oh, he's magnificent. | 0:39:27 | 0:39:30 | |
Back in the 16th century, | 0:39:32 | 0:39:33 | |
the aristocracy would contain this breed of cattle in special parks | 0:39:33 | 0:39:37 | |
in order to hunt them. | 0:39:37 | 0:39:38 | |
Hence their name, the White Park. | 0:39:38 | 0:39:41 | |
And John's got plenty more historical nuggets about the breed. | 0:39:41 | 0:39:44 | |
During the war, Winston Churchill considered it a good idea | 0:39:44 | 0:39:48 | |
to try and save them, and he sent a bull and two in-calf heifers | 0:39:48 | 0:39:51 | |
to New York to be protected from the Germans | 0:39:51 | 0:39:54 | |
-in case they should invade. -That's remarkable. | 0:39:54 | 0:39:57 | |
Wonderful, yes. He had a great sense of pride | 0:39:57 | 0:39:59 | |
and he had the right ideas. | 0:39:59 | 0:40:01 | |
-And their beef is renowned. -Yes. | 0:40:01 | 0:40:03 | |
Indeed, this year is the 400th anniversary of the time when | 0:40:03 | 0:40:08 | |
James I was eating a loin of beef, | 0:40:08 | 0:40:10 | |
and he said, "This is so marvellous, I'm going to knight it," | 0:40:10 | 0:40:13 | |
hence sirloin. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:15 | |
Incredible. I knew the story, but I didn't know it was White Park. | 0:40:15 | 0:40:18 | |
It was White Park. Definitely. | 0:40:18 | 0:40:20 | |
John's stately cuts go to a butcher in London | 0:40:21 | 0:40:24 | |
who specialises in meat from British native breeds. | 0:40:24 | 0:40:27 | |
So this farm boy is heading from the hillsides of Devon | 0:40:27 | 0:40:30 | |
to the Big Smoke to eat like a king. | 0:40:30 | 0:40:34 | |
Butcher Nathan Mills sources all his meat | 0:40:35 | 0:40:37 | |
from small-scale farmers just like John. | 0:40:37 | 0:40:40 | |
Come on down. This is a piece of White Park rib from John. | 0:40:43 | 0:40:47 | |
We've had it aged in the cool room now for about 75 days. | 0:40:47 | 0:40:50 | |
-That's well-aged. -Yeah. It's a very personal thing. | 0:40:50 | 0:40:54 | |
Some people like it a little bit longer, | 0:40:54 | 0:40:55 | |
some people don't like that intense flavour. | 0:40:55 | 0:40:58 | |
So what are you going to do with this? | 0:40:58 | 0:40:59 | |
I'm going to face the edge up and we'll have a look. | 0:40:59 | 0:41:01 | |
Got a couple of nice steaks over here ready to cook. | 0:41:01 | 0:41:04 | |
So let's just see what it looks like underneath. | 0:41:04 | 0:41:07 | |
That's really dark. In comparison to | 0:41:14 | 0:41:15 | |
what you'd get on a supermarket shelf, which is bright red, | 0:41:15 | 0:41:18 | |
-this is very dark, isn't it? -Yeah, very dark. | 0:41:18 | 0:41:21 | |
So we've lost a considerable amount of moisture out of this. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:23 | |
The marbling in it is quite fine, it's just got these specks | 0:41:23 | 0:41:27 | |
which bring a certain amount of flavour through to the meat. | 0:41:27 | 0:41:30 | |
It's showing that this animal has had a pretty good lifestyle. | 0:41:30 | 0:41:33 | |
-It's not been force-fed. -And real quality. -Quality, yeah. | 0:41:33 | 0:41:36 | |
Yeah, it speaks for itself. | 0:41:36 | 0:41:37 | |
But the proof, as they say, is in the eating, | 0:41:44 | 0:41:46 | |
and Nathan is very kindly cooking me up a White Park feast. | 0:41:46 | 0:41:49 | |
There we go. Let's have a look at how she looks on the inside. | 0:42:01 | 0:42:04 | |
-Perfect. -Doesn't it? -It looks really good. | 0:42:08 | 0:42:10 | |
-Take a piece. -Yeah, lovely. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:12 | |
-Mmm. -Sensational. | 0:42:18 | 0:42:20 | |
Full of flavour. Lovely texture. | 0:42:20 | 0:42:23 | |
Good earthy flavours to it. | 0:42:23 | 0:42:25 | |
Tastes like the grass that it's been eating. | 0:42:25 | 0:42:28 | |
Knowing John Lean's farm, | 0:42:28 | 0:42:31 | |
knowing the history of the cattle, | 0:42:31 | 0:42:33 | |
and then your expertise in the butchering, | 0:42:33 | 0:42:36 | |
it makes it even more special, doesn't it? | 0:42:36 | 0:42:38 | |
It does. It reckon it pulls on the heartstrings, | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
especially when you've been down to the farm and seen the animals | 0:42:41 | 0:42:44 | |
and how beautiful the farm is. | 0:42:44 | 0:42:46 | |
You can't convey that to your customer | 0:42:49 | 0:42:51 | |
without them sort of tasting it | 0:42:51 | 0:42:53 | |
and painting the whole picture for them. | 0:42:53 | 0:42:55 | |
Congratulations, is all I can say. | 0:42:55 | 0:42:57 | |
Absolutely beautiful. | 0:42:57 | 0:42:59 | |
By creating a market for their meat, | 0:42:59 | 0:43:02 | |
butchers like Nathan are actually | 0:43:02 | 0:43:04 | |
helping the survival of animals like the White Parks. | 0:43:04 | 0:43:07 | |
If there's no demand, | 0:43:07 | 0:43:08 | |
that's when our rare breeds are in danger of dying out. | 0:43:08 | 0:43:11 | |
Bird-watching is big in East Yorkshire, | 0:43:44 | 0:43:46 | |
and those with a keen eye and pair of binoculars | 0:43:46 | 0:43:49 | |
are well catered for right here at the Spurn Bird Observatory. | 0:43:49 | 0:43:53 | |
It's one of the most important sites for wild birds | 0:43:54 | 0:43:57 | |
anywhere in the country. | 0:43:57 | 0:43:58 | |
Hundreds of migratory and native species are seen here. | 0:43:58 | 0:44:03 | |
It's a big draw for birders from far and wide - | 0:44:03 | 0:44:07 | |
armies of volunteers who come daily | 0:44:07 | 0:44:09 | |
to help keep track of all that birdlife. | 0:44:09 | 0:44:11 | |
Today's count is under way. | 0:44:13 | 0:44:16 | |
I'm meeting up with Paul Collins from the observatory. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:19 | |
It's an amazing spot, because we've got sea on this side, | 0:44:19 | 0:44:22 | |
sea on that side, but it's also really important | 0:44:22 | 0:44:25 | |
strategically for the birds, isn't it? | 0:44:25 | 0:44:27 | |
Yes. Birds follow the coast down from northern England, | 0:44:27 | 0:44:30 | |
they hit the east coast of Yorkshire, | 0:44:30 | 0:44:32 | |
and the Holderness coast funnels them into its triangle shape | 0:44:32 | 0:44:34 | |
which then goes down the peninsula into Lincolnshire. | 0:44:34 | 0:44:37 | |
Any birds that are flying from north to south have to come through there. | 0:44:37 | 0:44:40 | |
They have to come... So on their journey, this is a pit stop, | 0:44:40 | 0:44:43 | |
-a service station, if you like? -Yeah. A lot of birds | 0:44:43 | 0:44:45 | |
just stay five, ten minutes, specially thrushes and blackbirds, | 0:44:45 | 0:44:48 | |
get up again and head straight inland. | 0:44:48 | 0:44:50 | |
And how important is the observatory? | 0:44:50 | 0:44:52 | |
It's been here since 1946 | 0:44:52 | 0:44:54 | |
and we record all the birds that we see migrating | 0:44:54 | 0:44:57 | |
and landing here, | 0:44:57 | 0:44:59 | |
since that, daily, from that day on. | 0:44:59 | 0:45:02 | |
-So it's been vital, really. -Yeah, yeah. | 0:45:02 | 0:45:04 | |
For trends, you can see trends when population increases, decreases, | 0:45:04 | 0:45:07 | |
which birds are declining rapidly, | 0:45:07 | 0:45:10 | |
so this is a vital piece of information | 0:45:10 | 0:45:12 | |
that the conservation units use for their conservation measures. | 0:45:12 | 0:45:15 | |
One man in particular has played a big part | 0:45:15 | 0:45:18 | |
in the work of the observatory going back decades. | 0:45:18 | 0:45:22 | |
That's 79-year-old Barry Spence. | 0:45:22 | 0:45:24 | |
And you came in 1964 and this is the logbook from that year. | 0:45:24 | 0:45:29 | |
Yes. I actually arrived on the 1st February. | 0:45:29 | 0:45:32 | |
"B Spence", look at that. | 0:45:32 | 0:45:34 | |
-That's my writing. -B Spence. OK. | 0:45:34 | 0:45:36 | |
What did you see that day? | 0:45:36 | 0:45:37 | |
"The gulls, the common gulls had dispersed from the Humber, | 0:45:37 | 0:45:41 | |
"and only 800 were left, mainly in small groups on the sea | 0:45:41 | 0:45:44 | |
"and Humber shores." This is great! You must have seen it | 0:45:44 | 0:45:47 | |
change dramatically in the time that you've been here. | 0:45:47 | 0:45:50 | |
There's lots of changes. | 0:45:50 | 0:45:51 | |
The area covered has changed considerably. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:54 | |
The number of birds seen is probably more, | 0:45:54 | 0:45:57 | |
mainly because there's far more people interested in birds nowadays | 0:45:57 | 0:46:01 | |
and so the coverage is far better, obviously. | 0:46:01 | 0:46:03 | |
Barry's enthusiasm and passion for birds | 0:46:05 | 0:46:08 | |
is something shared by all those carrying on his vital work. | 0:46:08 | 0:46:12 | |
The methods used are very much the same as they were in Barry's day. | 0:46:17 | 0:46:21 | |
The birds are ringed, measurements are taken... | 0:46:25 | 0:46:29 | |
..everything is recorded, including the age and the sex. | 0:46:32 | 0:46:36 | |
Here at Spurn, | 0:46:42 | 0:46:43 | |
they're actively encouraging a new breed of birders. | 0:46:43 | 0:46:46 | |
Jonnie Fisk, co-founder of the website The Next Generation Birders. | 0:46:46 | 0:46:52 | |
And Georgia Locock, active birder and wildlife campaigner. | 0:46:52 | 0:46:57 | |
-Hi, guys. -Hello. | 0:46:59 | 0:47:01 | |
Not that I want to make a generalisation, but I will - | 0:47:02 | 0:47:05 | |
most young people your age would probably much rather be in bed | 0:47:05 | 0:47:08 | |
at five in the morning than be out here in the freezing cold | 0:47:08 | 0:47:11 | |
waiting for a bird to fly by. | 0:47:11 | 0:47:13 | |
Wasting daylight! You've just got to be out there! | 0:47:13 | 0:47:15 | |
Got to be in it to win it. | 0:47:15 | 0:47:17 | |
-How old are you, Georgia? -I'm 18. | 0:47:17 | 0:47:19 | |
And how long have you been birding? | 0:47:19 | 0:47:21 | |
Been interested in wildlife in general since I was really young | 0:47:21 | 0:47:25 | |
and in the last few years I've really got involved and interested | 0:47:25 | 0:47:28 | |
in birding, and a lot of that has been through coming here | 0:47:28 | 0:47:31 | |
and sort of being inspired | 0:47:31 | 0:47:33 | |
and sort of motivated by the birders here, yeah. | 0:47:33 | 0:47:35 | |
-And how about you, Jonnie? How old are you? -I'm 21. | 0:47:35 | 0:47:38 | |
-21 and the world at your feet. -Oh, yes. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:40 | |
-And you choose to be here at Spurn Point. -Where else? | 0:47:40 | 0:47:43 | |
You've been instrumental in trying to | 0:47:43 | 0:47:45 | |
get other birders your age together, haven't you? | 0:47:45 | 0:47:48 | |
I set up this website on social media, Next Generation Birders, | 0:47:48 | 0:47:52 | |
and it was brilliant. We started out with about 50, 60, | 0:47:52 | 0:47:56 | |
and I looked the other day and there's over 700 people joined. | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
All between the ages of about 13 and 25. | 0:47:59 | 0:48:02 | |
But it's been... It's changed my birding for sure, | 0:48:02 | 0:48:05 | |
cos I've met so many great mates through it. | 0:48:05 | 0:48:08 | |
You could log on and realise that there's... | 0:48:08 | 0:48:11 | |
You thought there was no other birders your age in the area | 0:48:11 | 0:48:15 | |
and there's birders in your county, at your uni, maybe down the road. | 0:48:15 | 0:48:18 | |
I tell you what, I've been utterly inspired by both of you. | 0:48:18 | 0:48:21 | |
Not only your dedication to birding, but wildlife in general, | 0:48:21 | 0:48:24 | |
so where do I sign up? What do I need? | 0:48:24 | 0:48:26 | |
-Scope...dedication... -Yeah! | 0:48:26 | 0:48:30 | |
Dedication I've got in spades. I can get up early. | 0:48:30 | 0:48:33 | |
You've already got the hat. | 0:48:33 | 0:48:34 | |
I've got the hat! | 0:48:34 | 0:48:36 | |
Now, if I was a little bird, a bit like some of those I've met today | 0:48:42 | 0:48:46 | |
on their migratory route to cooler climes, | 0:48:46 | 0:48:48 | |
I would probably want to know | 0:48:48 | 0:48:50 | |
what the weather's looking like for the week ahead. | 0:48:50 | 0:48:53 | |
I'm on the Spurn peninsula, | 0:50:09 | 0:50:11 | |
the most southerly point in the East Riding of Yorkshire. | 0:50:11 | 0:50:14 | |
And I'm spending the day with | 0:50:14 | 0:50:16 | |
the country's only full-time, fully paid lifeboat crew. | 0:50:16 | 0:50:20 | |
The North Sea is relentless here, | 0:50:21 | 0:50:23 | |
continually changing and reshaping the Spurn peninsula. | 0:50:23 | 0:50:26 | |
Constantly battered by the wind and the waves, | 0:50:26 | 0:50:30 | |
this is one of the fastest-eroding coastlines in Europe, | 0:50:30 | 0:50:34 | |
and it's not just the land you can see - | 0:50:34 | 0:50:36 | |
it's the land beneath the waves, too. | 0:50:36 | 0:50:38 | |
And that is a real hazard. | 0:50:40 | 0:50:41 | |
Now, so that they can navigate a safe and swift passage | 0:50:41 | 0:50:45 | |
to those who are in trouble offshore without getting stuck themselves, | 0:50:45 | 0:50:49 | |
the lifeboat crew have to carefully monitor | 0:50:49 | 0:50:51 | |
the changes in the seabed. | 0:50:51 | 0:50:53 | |
That means almost daily navigation exercises. | 0:50:53 | 0:50:56 | |
The crew call it "sniffing the channels". | 0:50:56 | 0:50:59 | |
SIREN | 0:50:59 | 0:51:01 | |
As well as a life jacket, I need to get my skates on. | 0:51:10 | 0:51:13 | |
If I'm late, they won't wait. | 0:51:13 | 0:51:15 | |
Yep. As predicted, already running late. | 0:51:15 | 0:51:19 | |
Got to pick up the pace! | 0:51:19 | 0:51:21 | |
Ey-up there! In my younger days, I used to run this - | 0:51:24 | 0:51:28 | |
I've got a bike now! | 0:51:28 | 0:51:29 | |
Don't worry, we're nearly there! | 0:51:31 | 0:51:33 | |
Even in the dead of night, | 0:51:38 | 0:51:40 | |
the crew can get from their bunks to the boat | 0:51:40 | 0:51:42 | |
in less than eight minutes. | 0:51:42 | 0:51:44 | |
Just be careful as you get aboard. | 0:51:44 | 0:51:46 | |
Cheers. Thank you. | 0:51:46 | 0:51:47 | |
Coming out now, we've got a beautiful day. | 0:51:51 | 0:51:54 | |
At night-time, there is no ambient light at all, | 0:51:54 | 0:51:57 | |
so we do this in pitch black? | 0:51:57 | 0:51:59 | |
Is everything there on the boat? | 0:51:59 | 0:52:01 | |
-You never have to bring anything with you? -No. | 0:52:01 | 0:52:03 | |
The only piece of equipment we would bring extra with us | 0:52:03 | 0:52:06 | |
would be chocolate bars, biscuits and stuff like that, | 0:52:06 | 0:52:09 | |
if we know it's a long one. | 0:52:09 | 0:52:10 | |
She's a beauty, isn't she? | 0:52:13 | 0:52:15 | |
She really is. | 0:52:15 | 0:52:16 | |
Let the old man up first. | 0:52:17 | 0:52:19 | |
Here we'd go aft, and the lads would get the belt ready. | 0:52:20 | 0:52:24 | |
You are just in your element here, aren't you? | 0:52:24 | 0:52:26 | |
Yeah. This is... This is me. | 0:52:26 | 0:52:28 | |
I'm at my happiest when I'm up here. | 0:52:28 | 0:52:31 | |
You can feel the power, can't you? Whoo! | 0:52:39 | 0:52:42 | |
But all that raw horsepower | 0:52:44 | 0:52:46 | |
would be nothing without a good sense of direction. | 0:52:46 | 0:52:49 | |
Electronic navigation on here, it'll only send you in a straight line. | 0:52:52 | 0:52:55 | |
It doesn't know where the banks are, doesn't know where the shallows are, | 0:52:55 | 0:52:59 | |
doesn't know where the land is. | 0:52:59 | 0:53:00 | |
So if you trust it and went in a straight line, | 0:53:00 | 0:53:02 | |
you could get yourself into trouble. | 0:53:02 | 0:53:04 | |
I'm quite fortunate, I've got my navigators | 0:53:04 | 0:53:06 | |
on this watch and the other, they're really good. | 0:53:06 | 0:53:09 | |
Plotting a safe course through the ever-changing channels | 0:53:11 | 0:53:13 | |
takes some real skill. | 0:53:13 | 0:53:15 | |
Today, that task falls to navigator Colin Fisk. | 0:53:16 | 0:53:20 | |
-Col, how you doing? -I'm good, thank you. | 0:53:22 | 0:53:24 | |
How often are you coming out here, Colin, | 0:53:24 | 0:53:27 | |
and doing this work and kind of gathering your own information? | 0:53:27 | 0:53:30 | |
We come about...at least three times as week. | 0:53:30 | 0:53:33 | |
Is there a pattern to the way the sands are changing through the year? | 0:53:33 | 0:53:37 | |
As you see on the chart here, all this dark blue here is shallow. | 0:53:37 | 0:53:43 | |
-This bit of green is constantly changing. -Yeah. | 0:53:43 | 0:53:45 | |
You know, it changes by the way you can... | 0:53:45 | 0:53:48 | |
It is often surveyed, but they just can't keep up with it, | 0:53:48 | 0:53:52 | |
-it's been changing that much. -Yeah. | 0:53:52 | 0:53:54 | |
Also on board today is James Anthony, | 0:53:55 | 0:53:58 | |
an RNLI volunteer from the Thames station in London, | 0:53:58 | 0:54:01 | |
here to see how this crew works. | 0:54:01 | 0:54:04 | |
-Why are you here? -Just to do some all-weather lifeboating | 0:54:05 | 0:54:09 | |
as opposed to inshore lifeboating. | 0:54:09 | 0:54:11 | |
-Get a bit more experience. -Right. And how different is it, then? | 0:54:11 | 0:54:15 | |
It's a bit rougher! | 0:54:15 | 0:54:16 | |
And the thought of going 100 miles out into the North Sea? | 0:54:16 | 0:54:19 | |
Bring it on! | 0:54:19 | 0:54:20 | |
Well, in that case, let's go. | 0:54:20 | 0:54:23 | |
-She's all yours, Matt. -She's all mine! | 0:54:26 | 0:54:28 | |
So all this sand and shingle that's underneath us, | 0:54:37 | 0:54:40 | |
that's moving around, where's that all coming from? | 0:54:40 | 0:54:43 | |
It's coming down from the Holderness coast. | 0:54:43 | 0:54:45 | |
Longshore drift, the experts tell me. | 0:54:45 | 0:54:48 | |
Er, and it's the eroding coast - | 0:54:48 | 0:54:50 | |
the mud goes into suspension in the water, hence the colour, | 0:54:50 | 0:54:54 | |
and the sand and the shingle are left | 0:54:54 | 0:54:57 | |
and they come along the seabed with the tide. | 0:54:57 | 0:55:00 | |
They come down the coast, they meet the outflow | 0:55:00 | 0:55:03 | |
and they dump it all just there for us. | 0:55:03 | 0:55:06 | |
He's a good 'un! Shall we sign him up? | 0:55:09 | 0:55:11 | |
I'm enjoying myself! | 0:55:11 | 0:55:13 | |
Thankfully, today, all is well at sea, | 0:55:13 | 0:55:16 | |
but the Pride of the Humber remains ever-vigilant and ever-ready. | 0:55:16 | 0:55:21 | |
-All right, Matt? Check out my wheels! -Look at this! | 0:55:26 | 0:55:30 | |
-I've come to give you a lift. -Fantastic. -Isn't it great? | 0:55:30 | 0:55:33 | |
Modern technology. This is how you get on! | 0:55:33 | 0:55:36 | |
This has just been a day of rescues for me. | 0:55:36 | 0:55:38 | |
-It's not bad, is it? -It's not what you know, round here, | 0:55:38 | 0:55:41 | |
-it's who you know, isn't it? -And I've got all the best connections. | 0:55:41 | 0:55:44 | |
I cannot wait for this journey, I must say. | 0:55:44 | 0:55:46 | |
But tide and time waits for no-one. We are done here in Holderness. | 0:55:46 | 0:55:50 | |
Next week it's Easter Sunday | 0:55:50 | 0:55:51 | |
and we're going to be in Lancashire | 0:55:51 | 0:55:53 | |
where I will be experiencing an ancient Easter tradition. | 0:55:53 | 0:55:56 | |
-What are you going to do? -I will be taking a stroll | 0:55:56 | 0:55:58 | |
through witches' country, no less. | 0:55:58 | 0:56:01 | |
All right. Hope you can join us then. | 0:56:01 | 0:56:03 | |
See you then. Come on, up you get. | 0:56:03 | 0:56:04 | |
-See you next week. -See you. Check out the sunset! | 0:56:04 | 0:56:07 | |
-Beautiful. -Isn't it? | 0:56:07 | 0:56:10 |