North Devon Countryfile


North Devon

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North Devon in deep winter.

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The bustle of summer a long time past, the coast restored to calm.

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This place may look quiet and sleepy when all of the tourists have gone.

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But for the people who live in picturesque Clovelly,

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work doesn't stop.

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Ellie is discovering the wonders of local wool.

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These hardy Exmoor Mules have a thick, soft fleece,

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ideal for making the Stanbury Walker,

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the perfect sock for keeping warm on this incredibly blustery headland.

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Tom's gone fishing.

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You may not identify the species,

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but you'll recognise the name - sea bass.

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A very fashionable fish these days.

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But now, stocks are plummeting,

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and there's a temporary ban on catching them.

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But is even that too little, too late?

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And Adam's in Worcestershire, where the growing season is in full swing.

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Tomatoes are usually considered a summer crop.

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But not on this farm.

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Using this clever lighting system,

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they can harvest tomatoes 365 days of the year,

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regardless of the weather.

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I've never seen anything like it.

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Resting in the protected embrace of these rugged cliffs

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is a little village that appears to have escaped

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the hustle and bustle of modern life.

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I'm in Clovelly, on the north coast of Devon,

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not far from Bideford.

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With its steep, cobbled streets and its whitewashed cottages,

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Clovelly is as unchanging as the landscape that surrounds it.

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In the summer months,

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this traditional fishing village is packed with tourists.

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But at this time of year, the fishing pots and nets

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have been hauled in, and the streets are quiet.

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This place is just so beautiful.

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It's so charming, and that is partly because of the fact

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that there's no vehicle access here.

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But for the 200 or so people that live here,

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that comes with its challenges, all year round.

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You've still got to get everything home,

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from the groceries to the new three-piece suite.

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Over the years, they've had to come up with

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some ingenious ways to deal with this.

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-NEWSREEL:

-Down in Clovelly, they don't use lorries.

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They couldn't manoeuvre in the hilly, cobbled byways.

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But donkeys can. He gets around where nothing on four wheels can.

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Well, in the past, fellas like these would do a lot of the donkey work,

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hauling things up and down the steep terrain.

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These days, Charlie and Jake lead a much more gentle existence,

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giving donkey rides on the flat.

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But, of course, the work still needs to be done.

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And it's all down to manpower and a few sledges.

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Come on then, you two.

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Pretty much everything comes in or out on sledges,

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including the rubbish.

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Local resident and part-time dustbin man Stephen Perham

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has offered give me a less touristy taste of life in the village.

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So, Stephen, is this a weekly thing, biweekly -

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-how often do you collect the rubbish?

-Once a week.

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Once a week's enough for anybody, doing this job.

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OK, and is the idea then that we start at the top and work...

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Start at the top, work your way down.

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So, goodness me, the challenges that you must face in your life.

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If people have something pretty big that they want to get in here,

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-how do they go about it?

-You have to ask everybody.

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-Get a load of people to help you.

-Yeah.

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-We've had pianos and all sorts.

-Have you?

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Yeah, we dragged a piano down the street,

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and they played on it as we went down.

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It's a challenge to live in Clovelly.

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It's not an easy place to live, but it's a beautiful place to live.

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-It is.

-Where else would you want to live?

-This is the thing.

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How do you feel, walking on a flat pavement?

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Oh, it's hell, isn't it? I can't do that, my God(!)

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It makes your feet ache, that does.

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It's not just Clovelly's way of life that's different -

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the village is unusual as it's still privately owned,

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and has been in hands of just three families for the last 800 years.

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The Clovelly that people know and love today

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is largely down to the vision of one woman.

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And she was quite a remarkable one at that.

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Christine Hamlyn inherited the estate towards the end of the 19th century,

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just as tourism in this part of Devon was really taking off.

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She wanted to build on the village's potential to attract visitors,

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and set about major restoration work.

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She was so successful that she became known as the Queen of Clovelly.

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-She seems like quite a formidable woman.

-She was.

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Since 1987, the job of managing the estate has fallen

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to her great-great-grandnephew, John Rous.

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And so what did your ancestor Christine do here?

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What was here beforehand?

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Christine Hamlyn inherited the village of Clovelly in 1884.

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The cottages, I think, were very modest.

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They'd only been used to support fishing families who'd made

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a precarious living from fishing in the 19th century.

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And she set about rebuilding them all.

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The dates that you see on the cottages

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mark the restoration that she undertook.

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The way that the times are changing and moving on, and everything

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we have, with broadband and this, that and the other,

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-how does it all sit with this place?

-Yeah, it's a great challenge.

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On the one hand, one wants to make the village a lovely place

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for our residents, our tenants to live in.

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On the other hand, for our visitors to come and visit,

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because that helps finance all the maintenance of the properties.

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And one's got to adapt to modern circumstances.

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There's no doubt that this very special village

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owes its survival to tourism.

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But it's a living, breathing place, with a strong

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sense of community, that's determined to keep its traditions alive.

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Well, as I'll be finding out later on, there is still fishing

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here in Clovelly, but it's not on the scale that it used to be.

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Partly because of strict European quotas

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and what they're allowed to catch.

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Now, across the UK, there are fresh concerns about the impact that

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new restrictions on catchers could have on the industry

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in the year to come.

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Here's Tom.

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The seas around the United Kingdom provide an all-year-round harvest.

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Fishermen toil to gather the bounty that lies beneath the waves,

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but it's no longer a free-for-all.

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Because of fishing pressure,

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many species have come close to extinction.

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So, for more than 30 years, many types of fish have had quotas

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put upon them, determining how much people are allowed to catch.

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From sole to plaice, haddock to cod,

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there aren't many fish species that haven't been subject to quotas.

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One species that had escaped any EU-wide controls was

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wild-caught sea bass. But not any longer.

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In the space of two years, it's gone from being completely unrestricted

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to total - albeit temporary - bans on catching any at all.

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There's a good reason for that.

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In just five years, since 2010, the breeding population of

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wild sea bass in northern Europe has more than halved.

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And that's not just affecting commercial fishermen,

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but recreational anglers too.

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-Good morning, guys!

-Good morning.

-Good morning, Phil.

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Around one million people go sea angling

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each year in the United Kingdom, and sea bass is a favoured catch.

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Nigel Horsman is from the Bass Anglers Sportsfishing Society.

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He's seen a worrying decline in stocks.

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The commercial fishing industry have been catching

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more and more bass over the years.

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To the point where they're definitely being overfished.

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But it's a double whammy at the moment -

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in the five winters of 2008-2012, all had spells that were so cold,

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they actually killed off a lot of baby bass.

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So we've got a five-year gap where there are very few young bass

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to feed through into the adult stocks.

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And that combination is a perfect strong, if you like, on bass stocks.

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So what's been done to stop their extinction?

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Well, last year, emergency measures were brought in across the EU

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that restricted not only where wild sea bass could be caught,

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but also introduced a minimum size and a maximum catch.

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European ministers, though, felt more needed to be done.

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So, from January 1st this year, further restrictions came in

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and they affect everyone from commercial fishermen

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to recreational anglers right across the country.

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Recreational anglers catch a quarter of the sea bass

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caught in Northern Europe. For a full six months of this year,

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they will have to throw back every wild sea bass they catch.

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After that, it is only one fish each per day.

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That's angered anglers like Nigel.

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It's going to have, actually, a very bad impact on economic value

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and jobs, on the recreational sea angling industry,

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where anglers unable to keep even one bass to take home to eat

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after a day's fishing don't want to go fishing as much as they used to.

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We all need to play our part,

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but I think we need to think again about whether we've actually

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done this fairly and the negative impact on jobs and livelihoods.

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For Nigel, it's the commercial side of the industry that should be

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taking on the brunt of the new regulations.

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Commercial fishing boats catch three-quarters of wild sea bass

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and they are facing two types of ban.

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Those seen as more sustainable, such as rod and line fishermen,

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will have a two-month ban from February,

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then a 1.3 tonnes per month vessel catch limit.

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But most commercial fishing is done by trawlers

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and boats that use large nets.

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These will face a six-month ban,

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then a monthly catch limit of one tonne per vessel.

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It's 6am, and I've come to Brixham fish market to find out

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about the impact of sea bass restriction on commercial fishing.

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£8 on them big soles.

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7.50 on them big soles.

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I've got 7... 7.10...

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More than £20 million worth of fish is landed

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and auctioned here every year.

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What about bass? Have we got any in today?

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It's a fairly light market for bass, but there are a few, we've got

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a few line-caught ones, a few trawl-caught ones...

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Paul Trebilcock is president

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of the National Federation of Fishermen's Organisations,

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which represents thousands of fishermen across the UK,

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including those on trawlers.

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We've got a fleet, a large fleet of relatively small boats

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and they are going to sea daily,

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catching a wide variety of species,

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but in amongst that mixed fishery is bass,

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and that bass is one of the more expensive or higher value species,

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and that's important to these guys.

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You start taking the bass, the high-value species out of the gross

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value of that boat, the business starts to become less viable.

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Crews start to get less wages.

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So, there is a real impact on these inshore fishermen.

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Do you accept the number of bass is dropping

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and they need to be protected?

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There is no doubt there needs to be sensible

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management of the bass fishery across Europe.

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But you seem to be saying, sensible management,

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we need restrictions, but not with us, with somebody else.

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No, I don't think that's fair, because already,

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fishermen themselves have taken on the larger minimum landing sites,

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so, bass, below 42 centimetres, they are all going back in the sea.

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There are monthly catch limits which allow for this by-catch,

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so I think there are fishermen who have taken on a lot of positive

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and proactive measures for the management of bass,

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but this one is just a step too far.

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There is no doubt that the restrictions on catching

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sea bass will have a significant impact on the livelihoods of many

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British fishermen, as well as the angling industry.

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But despite that, there are those who believe the limited ban

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on catching bass like this doesn't go far enough

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and that EU policy is completely flawed.

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I'll be finding out why later on.

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'Good morning. Here is the shipping forecast issued by the Met Office

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'on behalf of the Maritime and Coastguard Agency.

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'Sole, Lundy, Fastnet, Irish Sea, Shannon,

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'west or southwest, five to seven, decreasing four at times,

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'showers, good, occasionally moderate.'

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The rugged, brutal coastline around our shores is picturesque,

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but seas like these here in Devon can be treacherous,

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sparking thousands of calls every year to the coastguard.

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For those of us who live, work or holiday by the coast,

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the Royal National Lifeboat Institution, the RNLI,

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is the vital fourth emergency service.

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Founded as a charity by Sir William Hillary in 1824,

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the RNLI was originally called the National Institution

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for the Preservation of Life from Shipwrecks.

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While the boats and equipment have changed considerably

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over the years, one thing remains the same -

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our lifeboats are crewed almost entirely by volunteers.

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Now, one man is honouring this band of volunteers

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by photographing all crew and every single lifeboat station

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in the country - 237 of them!

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This five-year project brings together Jack Lowe's two passions -

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photography and the RNLI.

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A year into the project and Jack's photographed the lifeboat crews

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of North Devon, travelling with his assistant Duncan

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in their converted ambulance-cum-mobile darkroom.

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-Wow! Gentlemen, hello!

-Hello.

-Ah, wow!

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Jack, this is not quite what I was expecting.

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How old is this technology?

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Er, well, the camera is Edwardian - 1905 -

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and the process that I use is Victorian. It dates from the 1850s.

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Good gracious. Why this, rather than digital?

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Well, I really enjoy making things again.

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After working so long in the digital industry,

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I'm enjoying making glass plates, things that people can refer to

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and look at for hundreds of years to come.

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What would you get from a photograph produced this way,

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compared to one produced digitally?

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They have a beautiful depth to them

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and, also, they're still, even after 160 years,

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-the highest resolution photographs ever invented.

-Wow.

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Where did this love of lifeboats, specifically - where did that come from?

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So, about eight or nine years old, um,

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my grandmother gave me my first camera, which was an old Instamatic.

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My dad took me to one of the shipyards,

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where they made at the time a particular kind of lifeboat

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and, for me, that was it sparked.

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-Can you take a photo now?

-Yes, of course.

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Once the photograph is composed through the glass screen now,

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-I swap that with the plate that's waiting here.

-Mm-hm.

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And that goes on to the back of the camera.

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So that's now holding a wet piece of glass with the chemicals.

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I pull out the dark slide, to reveal the glass plate there,

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-and the lens cap is my shutter.

-OK.

-So, once I'm happy with the scene,

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and that everything's as it should be,

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I release the lens cap...

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..and count for a few seconds.

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-It goes back on the lens...

-Nice.

-..the dark slide goes back in...

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..and then, remove the glass plate holder from the back.

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-Can we see it now? Of course, we can't, can we?

-No, no.

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It needs to be processed in the darkroom.

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It's a real anticipation, isn't it, waiting to see it?

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-Yes, really magical every time. It's amazing.

-Fantastic.

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-All right, I look forward to it.

-OK, then.

-See you in a bit.

-Bye.

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Jack's photographs of the Clovelly crew are some of his most prized.

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Including this one - The Women Of Clovelly -

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just a handful of the 533 RNLI women in the UK.

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Martel Fursdon is the lifeboat operations manager.

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-What's it like being photographed by Jack?

-It was an incredible day.

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The weather, the waiting around, nothing seemed to matter.

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We knew we were going to be part of something special.

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It's a beautiful photo as well.

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-Yeah.

-It really captures that moment so nicely.

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And to look at it and think...

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It looks like something that's part of history.

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What's it like, then, when a pager goes off?

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It's not panic, but it's similar -

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that moment of adrenaline surge and, "OK, what is it?"

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For me, it's making a phone call to the coastguard,

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to find out what it is that they want from us.

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And then, we're into the scramble of getting the boat ready and...

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crew flying through the village,

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clothes are coming off as they come through the door and into the suits

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and, whilst the crew are getting ready, then the boat's being moved.

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It's a well-oiled machine. It's something else to watch, really.

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-Yeah, really slick.

-And it only takes minutes -

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from when the crew alert's gone off, it's maybe seven minutes

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till we actually get the boat in the water.

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-It's cool.

-Yeah, incredibly quick.

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'Crew member Luke Gist

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'is running some routine checks on the lifeboat.'

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So, you're one of the helmsmen here, are you?

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Yeah, I'm a trainee helm, so I'm just going through all my training

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and stuff now - hopefully should be signed off by the end of the month.

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What was it that made you decide to volunteer in the first place?

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All my family's done it at some point. My dad was on the lifeboat.

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Two of my uncles were senior helms here at Clovelly. One of my uncles

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was actually lost in a fishing accident, just round the coast.

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Um, so - I don't know - maybe repaying a debt, if you like,

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and I get to drive a really nice boat and not put fuel in it, so...

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-SHE LAUGHS

-..that's always a bonus.

0:19:350:19:37

It's a win-win. That's good.

0:19:370:19:40

-Here's Jack. Oh, the photo!

-Yes.

0:19:400:19:43

-Hey, let's see.

-Wow.

-ELLIE GASPS

0:19:430:19:46

-It is holographic!

-Yeah.

-It's almost like you're in the depth of it!

0:19:460:19:50

That's a real cracker. An real piece of history too.

0:19:500:19:52

It sort of lights up the area and, as you go around the coast doing

0:19:520:19:56

all these stations, you're lighting the whole coastline. It's beautiful.

0:19:560:19:59

'It's another striking image, and, as Jack continues his project,

0:19:590:20:04

'we can look forward to many more photographs

0:20:040:20:07

'detailing and honouring the work of our lifeboat crews.'

0:20:070:20:11

MATT: Now, time to forget the cold

0:20:150:20:17

and enjoy the warmth of last summer all over again.

0:20:170:20:20

That's when we asked some well-known faces, from athletes to comedians...

0:20:200:20:25

Ooh, it's quite refreshing after a while.

0:20:250:20:28

..actors...

0:20:280:20:30

to chefs...

0:20:300:20:32

Bon appetit.

0:20:320:20:34

..what part of our magnificent countryside was special to them.

0:20:340:20:38

With 22 medals to her name,

0:20:420:20:44

Dame Sarah Storey is one of Britain's most decorated Paralympians.

0:20:440:20:49

And the edge of the Peak District is not only her training ground,

0:20:490:20:53

but it's also where she calls home.

0:20:530:20:55

-COMMENTATOR:

-'Now... the countdown is on.

0:21:030:21:06

-'And she is underway!'

-CHEERING

0:21:060:21:09

This area as a training ground is absolutely superb.

0:21:120:21:15

'She's the big favourite here! She's the defending champion.'

0:21:150:21:19

Being in this environment just makes you super fit

0:21:200:21:23

and that definitely tells on race day.

0:21:230:21:25

'Sarah Storey is absolutely flying here!'

0:21:260:21:29

Ultimately, preparation is everything.

0:21:310:21:34

These were the days where I put that extra mileage in

0:21:340:21:36

that really helped me to achieve what I've done today.

0:21:360:21:39

CHEERING

0:21:390:21:40

'It's a gold medal for Sarah Storey! And everybody

0:21:400:21:45

'up on their feet!'

0:21:450:21:47

I live in Disley. I've lived here since I was a very small child.

0:21:550:21:59

-CHILD GIGGLES

-Ticklish?

0:21:590:22:01

'Disley's on the west and north-west edge of the Peak District,

0:22:010:22:04

'right near Lyme Park, which is an incredible spot as well.'

0:22:040:22:08

SARAH AND HER DAUGHTER LAUGH AND GIGGLE

0:22:080:22:10

We're on the top of Cage Hill now.

0:22:110:22:13

This is the folly I could see from my bedroom window as a child.

0:22:130:22:17

And we can literally view everything,

0:22:170:22:19

right the way across the Welsh hills, to Runcorn, up towards

0:22:190:22:23

the back of Manchester, with Bolton, and then right over the Pennines.

0:22:230:22:28

You can just see everything from up here. It's amazing.

0:22:280:22:31

'I remember all the great things

0:22:360:22:37

'I did with my parents as I was growing up.

0:22:370:22:39

'We moved here when I was just 18 months old, so going into Lyme Park

0:22:390:22:43

'and being able to climb on the adventure playground

0:22:430:22:46

'and scaring my mum by going up too high on the climbing frames.

0:22:460:22:49

'Yeah, it's fantastic now, with my daughter and my husband,

0:22:530:22:55

'to be able to rediscover this area through the eyes of a toddler.'

0:22:550:22:58

-DUCKS QUACK

-Whee!

-Whee!

0:23:000:23:03

Feeding the ducks is always a... is always a favourite activity

0:23:060:23:10

-and there's never enough bread.

-HE LAUGHS

0:23:100:23:12

You couldn't wish for a better place to grow up

0:23:120:23:15

and I hope she sits here when she's the same age as I am

0:23:150:23:17

and is able to appreciate it as much as I appreciate it myself.

0:23:170:23:20

More, Daddy, more.

0:23:200:23:23

-More!

-More?

-More!

-More bread?

0:23:230:23:26

This area as a training ground is absolutely superb.

0:23:400:23:43

You've got a little bit of everything.

0:23:430:23:45

You can go across to the flattish roads,

0:23:450:23:47

you've got rolling countryside, then you've got the steeper climbs,

0:23:470:23:50

the steeper descents, the gradual climbs, the twisty descents,

0:23:500:23:53

everything that you might need to be a great cyclist.

0:23:530:23:56

And when you get to a major championships, being able to train

0:23:560:23:59

in those conditions means that you're just ready for anything.

0:23:590:24:01

My next goal is going to be Rio in 2016.

0:24:060:24:09

It's going to be amazing to be able to prepare in this environment.

0:24:090:24:13

The Goyt Valley Loop, for me, is a staple part of my training,

0:24:160:24:19

especially in the spring through to the autumn months.

0:24:190:24:22

It's got around about 1,000m of climbing

0:24:220:24:24

in just around about an hour and a half.

0:24:240:24:27

It's got a long, gradual climb up Long Hill.

0:24:270:24:30

Er, then you drop quite quickly into the Goyt Valley

0:24:320:24:34

and then there's a steep climb out.

0:24:340:24:36

And I'll be using this route a huge amount in that time, because

0:24:380:24:41

the hills of the road race will need some good strong climbing legs

0:24:410:24:44

and you don't get much better climbs than the ones I've got round here.

0:24:440:24:47

We're at the top of Pym Chair, which is probably the highest point

0:24:520:24:56

on the ride and definitely the place you can see the most.

0:24:560:24:58

It does give you that vantage point of being able to survey

0:25:010:25:04

the place that you call home.

0:25:040:25:06

The views up here are absolutely incredible.

0:25:090:25:12

They change all the time.

0:25:120:25:13

You can come up here in the morning and the afternoon

0:25:160:25:18

and the evening of the same day and the view will be quite different.

0:25:180:25:22

You get the ability to see all the different weather rolling in,

0:25:240:25:27

the hillsides look different colours depending on the sunlight.

0:25:270:25:31

No two days are ever the same

0:25:320:25:34

and I love the fact that it constantly changes.

0:25:340:25:37

So many people come up here just to contemplate the world

0:25:400:25:43

and it really is a beautiful spot.

0:25:430:25:45

'Having this landscape as an environment in which to train,

0:25:480:25:51

'in which to live, in which to be as a family, is a real blessing.'

0:25:510:25:55

LAUGHTER

0:25:570:25:59

'I've got everything I need right on my doorstep.'

0:25:590:26:02

For me, hopefully, I'll be able to attribute the landscape here

0:26:100:26:13

and the roads that I use every single day as my path to gold.

0:26:130:26:17

Tom has been on the south coast exploring the latest EU restrictions

0:26:260:26:31

on fishing sea bass in the waters around the UK.

0:26:310:26:34

But do they go far enough to protect the species?

0:26:340:26:37

Wild sea bass - one of our most popular fish.

0:26:450:26:49

Until recently, catching it was free from any EU-wide restriction,

0:26:500:26:55

but this year, temporary bans and strict catch limits will affect all

0:26:550:26:59

kinds of fishermen, both commercial and those who fish for pleasure.

0:26:590:27:04

The arguments over who should take the bulk of the restrictions will

0:27:070:27:12

rumble on, although everyone accepts that something needs to be done.

0:27:120:27:16

But for some, the new rules are not nearly tough enough.

0:27:160:27:21

'Bernadette Clarke is from the Marine Conservation Society,

0:27:250:27:28

'which campaigns for sustainable fishing.'

0:27:280:27:31

So what do you think about the quality of the restrictions

0:27:330:27:36

that the EU have brought in?

0:27:360:27:37

We think these measures, whilst they're welcome, er,

0:27:370:27:40

are too little, too late. The numbers don't really stack up.

0:27:400:27:45

The scientific advice is for landings, for both sectors -

0:27:450:27:48

recreational and commercial - of no more than 541 tonnes.

0:27:480:27:53

'This is the figure

0:27:550:27:56

'the International Council for the Exploration of the Sea

0:27:560:28:00

'told the European Commission was the maximum sustainable yield

0:28:000:28:04

'for sea bass in Northern Europe in 2016.

0:28:040:28:08

'But the Marine Conservation Society thinks the new rules could allow

0:28:080:28:12

'more than three times that to be caught,

0:28:120:28:15

'leading to an even more dangerous decline.'

0:28:150:28:17

What do you fear that might mean for the sea bass?

0:28:180:28:21

Well, the stock inevitably will continue to decline and, er,

0:28:210:28:26

we'll be looking at a moratorium being recommended.

0:28:260:28:29

It's, er, about money and politics,

0:28:290:28:32

not primarily conservation, as it should be.

0:28:320:28:36

'So, have the latest European restrictions actually been

0:28:400:28:43

'watered down, despite scientific advice warning that drastic measures

0:28:430:28:47

'needed to be taken now, before it's too late?'

0:28:470:28:51

Brussels - the centre of European policy-making

0:28:560:28:59

and home to the Council of the European Union.

0:28:590:29:02

Just last month, ministers from across Europe met here

0:29:040:29:07

to decide fish quotas for the next 12 months.

0:29:070:29:11

The future of thousands of fishermen

0:29:110:29:14

was decided in two days of debate and discussion.

0:29:140:29:18

Place Sainte-Catherine, in the heart of the city.

0:29:210:29:24

For 500 years, fish and seafood has been traded, sold and eaten here.

0:29:240:29:29

'So, what better place to meet the man responsible for overseeing

0:29:310:29:35

'all fishing policy for the EU -

0:29:350:29:37

'Karmenu Vella, the European Commissioner

0:29:370:29:39

'for Environment, Maritime Affairs and Fisheries?'

0:29:390:29:43

How confident, or sure, are you that the sea bass

0:29:460:29:49

will survive and thrive as a species?

0:29:490:29:53

Sure as in 100% sure and giving guarantees, I cannot do that,

0:29:540:29:58

but we are... I'm very positive that we will achieve the intended result.

0:29:580:30:03

The scientists recommended an 80% cut down to, I think,

0:30:030:30:08

-around 541 tonnes in the northern sector.

-That's right, yes.

0:30:080:30:11

And yet, what's been allowed is much more than that.

0:30:110:30:14

Yes, I can explain this.

0:30:140:30:16

The scientists always recommend an amount.

0:30:160:30:20

However, we do recognise that this might create

0:30:200:30:23

some social and economic hardship on some fishermen and member states.

0:30:230:30:28

'So, have European ministers put the fishermen before the fish?'

0:30:280:30:33

It sounds to me like you've given in to the fishing pressure groups?

0:30:330:30:37

No, no, no. The idea is to get...is to get there.

0:30:370:30:40

You either act and, in the process, you might be killing...

0:30:400:30:46

-not killing the fish, but killing the fishermen.

-Yeah.

0:30:460:30:49

-Or, if you use gradualism, you will save both.

-Yeah.

0:30:490:30:54

We've spoken to some fishermen, who say that

0:30:540:30:56

the restrictions you have brought in, you know, are very tough.

0:30:560:30:59

Um, well, I admit, I won't say they are the easiest of measures,

0:30:590:31:04

but it's in the best interest, after all, of the fishermen themselves.

0:31:040:31:08

Um, what we want and what we... what we are after is the long-term

0:31:080:31:14

sustainability of the stock, not only for the commercial fishermen,

0:31:140:31:19

but it's a good stock for the recreational fishermen as well.

0:31:190:31:23

The story of sea bass has a familiar ring.

0:31:280:31:32

Abundant stocks and no regulation.

0:31:320:31:35

Overfishing and a slow response.

0:31:350:31:37

Emergency measures and an angry reaction.

0:31:370:31:40

We'll soon discover if the current plan delivers a happy ending

0:31:400:31:44

for the sea bass, and the livelihoods that depend on them.

0:31:440:31:48

Now, there aren't many places as untouched by the hands of time

0:31:570:32:01

as Clovelly in North Devon.

0:32:010:32:03

When you walk down these cobbled streets,

0:32:070:32:09

it's like stepping back in time

0:32:090:32:11

and these characterful fishermen's cottages

0:32:110:32:13

seem to have changed very little over the years

0:32:130:32:15

and, really, that is what brings all of the tourists here.

0:32:150:32:18

Last year, there was over 150,000 of them.

0:32:180:32:21

But this place is not a museum, it's a working village.

0:32:210:32:25

And, when the tourists go, the builders can move in.

0:32:250:32:28

The Rous family, who own the estate, manage 80 properties.

0:32:300:32:35

Their biggest challenge is to conserve their character

0:32:350:32:38

whilst making them fit for 21st-century living.

0:32:380:32:41

Now, so many people come here to take photos of these beautiful cottages.

0:32:450:32:49

But not many visitors get to see what goes on on the inside.

0:32:490:32:53

That is until today. But apparently, this one needs quite a bit of work.

0:32:530:32:58

'In fact, it's about to undergo a major renovation

0:32:580:33:01

'into a four-bedroomed house over three storeys,

0:33:010:33:03

'and Luke McAdam is the architect leading the project.'

0:33:030:33:07

So this one room that we're standing in here now, this would've

0:33:070:33:10

originally been the whole of the downstairs of this one cottage?

0:33:100:33:13

-Absolutely right, yeah. It would've been one room per floor.

-I see.

0:33:130:33:17

So, kitchen, sitting area,

0:33:170:33:19

everything taken place in a room like this.

0:33:190:33:21

So what's the plan, then? How are you going to keep

0:33:210:33:23

all this wonderful character? What's the idea with this?

0:33:230:33:26

-Well, that's the challenge.

-Yeah.

-We've got to somehow balance

0:33:260:33:29

the constraints of the fact that the building is listed,

0:33:290:33:32

-and all the conservation issues that that brings with it...

-Yeah.

0:33:320:33:36

..with the need to allow the building to be adapted

0:33:360:33:39

to suit a modern lifestyle.

0:33:390:33:41

Come this way.

0:33:410:33:43

-Oh, right.

-So...

-Oh, are we outside now, then?

0:33:430:33:45

-It's sort of an inside-outside space.

-OK.

0:33:450:33:48

-You can see the rear of the retaining wall here.

-Yeah.

0:33:480:33:51

And then, through here, we think this could've been

0:33:510:33:54

maybe a smoke store, or something like that, but this will become

0:33:540:33:58

-a very useful utility room connected through the kitchen.

-I see, I see.

0:33:580:34:02

Well, let's have a look at what would have been next door's downstairs.

0:34:020:34:07

In the converted state, this was the living room for a larger house,

0:34:070:34:10

so they've converted what was the original kitchen range

0:34:100:34:12

-into a smaller fire.

-I see. But I guess the challenge you've got here

0:34:120:34:15

-is that you can't extend this, can you, at all?

-Exactly right.

0:34:150:34:20

-In the whole village, really, we're sort of landlocked.

-Mm-hm.

0:34:200:34:23

So the only opportunities architecturally to modify and adapt

0:34:230:34:26

the properties are within the constraints of the existing size.

0:34:260:34:30

And time is of the essence, cos you've gotta get it done

0:34:300:34:32

before the tourists turn up.

0:34:320:34:33

One of the challenges of working in Clovelly...

0:34:330:34:35

-Yeah.

-..as you've probably seen walking around, is we need

0:34:350:34:38

-to time the works to minimise the disruption on tourists...

-Yeah.

0:34:380:34:41

..but also not in the middle of winter, when it's quite difficult.

0:34:410:34:44

Well, the question is, have you got yourself a new sledge?

0:34:440:34:47

LAUGHTER Cos you're going to...

0:34:470:34:49

You're going to need a big one for this!

0:34:490:34:52

There's a lot of work to be done.

0:34:520:34:54

-ELLIE:

-Now, farming and the weather go hand in hand,

0:35:020:35:05

but in the winter months, it's easy to forget about

0:35:050:35:08

those warm summer days, when the conditions are perfect for growing.

0:35:080:35:12

But as Adam's about to discover, even in the depths of winter,

0:35:170:35:22

there's a way fruit and veg can flourish.

0:35:220:35:24

-ADAM:

-We're used to having fresh fruit and veg all year round.

0:35:280:35:32

But at this time of year,

0:35:320:35:33

a good deal of what we buy in the shops is imported.

0:35:330:35:36

So I've come to Bristol to see if there's a solution to this issue.

0:35:360:35:40

The challenge is to produce more of our own food.

0:35:400:35:43

That way, we can cut down on food miles,

0:35:430:35:46

become less reliant on imports,

0:35:460:35:48

but there is a finite amount of land,

0:35:480:35:50

so how can we produce more food?

0:35:500:35:53

Perhaps the answer's in science.

0:35:530:35:55

'I've come to Bristol University,

0:35:570:35:58

'where new technology is paving the way towards

0:35:580:36:01

'a cost-effective method of growing plants throughout the seasons.

0:36:010:36:05

'As horticulturalist Tom Pitman has been discovering.'

0:36:050:36:08

-Hello, Adam.

-Hi, great to meet you.

-And you.

0:36:080:36:10

-This is pretty impressive. Tell me all about it.

-Well, we're up on

0:36:100:36:14

the fifth floor of the new Life Sciences building here in Bristol.

0:36:140:36:17

And you're producing plants all year round? I mean, here we are,

0:36:170:36:20

it's the middle of winter, we've got maize with lovely green leaves.

0:36:200:36:23

Yeah, we can grow anything, any time, anywhere, throughout the year.

0:36:230:36:28

And amongst all the technology up here,

0:36:280:36:30

I understand one of the very special things is the lighting.

0:36:300:36:33

Yeah, these are LED lighting.

0:36:330:36:35

When we first moved in a couple of years ago, we had, um,

0:36:350:36:39

sodium lamps, which are the equivalent of a street lamp, really.

0:36:390:36:43

But they were, at the time, the norm for horticultural lighting.

0:36:430:36:46

-So, why did you go for LED, then?

-Two reasons.

0:36:460:36:50

LEDs grew plants under them just as well as sodiums,

0:36:500:36:54

but the main thing was the energy saving,

0:36:540:36:57

where we quartered our electricity bill

0:36:570:37:00

from something like about £16,000 a year down to about four.

0:37:000:37:04

-That's significant, isn't it?

-It is, yes.

0:37:040:37:06

'So, financially, it makes sense. But this is not the only advantage.

0:37:080:37:13

'New LED technology is a game changer for growers,

0:37:130:37:16

'and can offer so much more than the tradition sodium lighting.

0:37:160:37:20

'It's allowing scientists to experiment in new ingenious ways.

0:37:200:37:24

'Steve Edwards has been developing the technology

0:37:260:37:28

'and is the brains behind this system.'

0:37:280:37:30

-Hi, Steve.

-Hi, Adam.

0:37:300:37:32

These look great, but I wasn't expecting this colour.

0:37:320:37:35

No, it's an unusual colour, isn't it?

0:37:350:37:38

As you can see, we've got green, amber, red, blue.

0:37:380:37:41

It sort of takes a little bit of getting used to, but after a while,

0:37:410:37:44

you know, it's not too bad. The plants love it, of course.

0:37:440:37:47

So what are the advantages of LED, then?

0:37:470:37:49

Well, the advantages of LED over conventional systems

0:37:490:37:52

is that we can actually target specific wavelengths of light.

0:37:520:37:54

So, a conventional light would give you a very broad set of wavelengths,

0:37:540:37:58

whereas, with LED, we can actually give the plant

0:37:580:38:01

exactly what it needs, in terms of the right colours.

0:38:010:38:03

-Can you increase yields and those sorts of things?

-We can do.

0:38:030:38:07

In the commercial world, what we're finding is

0:38:070:38:09

we can increase yield across a whole year, so, rather than just

0:38:090:38:12

growing from, say, March to October, which is normal with sunlight,

0:38:120:38:16

what we can find is we can actually grow the whole year.

0:38:160:38:19

And, with an increased yield, presumably, with a growing

0:38:190:38:22

world population we're all told about, we may be able to feed them?

0:38:220:38:25

As the urban expansion eats into more and more land, there's

0:38:250:38:29

less and less land for farming and we're at the mercy of the weather.

0:38:290:38:33

We've had a run of really heavy rain just recently in the UK,

0:38:330:38:36

then we have issues with natural sunlight conditions.

0:38:360:38:39

With LED technology,

0:38:390:38:40

the hope is that we can build facilities where we can actually

0:38:400:38:43

grow the crops we need to grow in a more of a controlled environment.

0:38:430:38:47

And, for the environment and food miles, it saves us importing food,

0:38:470:38:50

-if we can grow more here.

-It certainly does.

0:38:500:38:52

Yeah, the more we can reduce how far we transfer food,

0:38:520:38:56

from where it's grown to where it's consumed, the better for the planet.

0:38:560:38:59

For example, we can actually look at growing urban farms underneath

0:38:590:39:03

a supermarket and just ship the crops upstairs to the supermarket.

0:39:030:39:08

Some supermarkets are actually having live growing walls within

0:39:080:39:12

their supermarkets themselves - the freshest herbs you can buy.

0:39:120:39:15

-Extraordinary, isn't it?

-Very much so.

0:39:150:39:16

'So, with a limited amount of land,

0:39:190:39:21

'and the need to produce more food, could this be the answer?

0:39:210:39:25

'Can it really work on a commercial scale? To find out, I'm meeting

0:39:250:39:29

'tomato grower Roly Holt in Worcestershire.' Hi, Roly.

0:39:290:39:33

-Adam, hi, good to see you.

-Good to see you.

0:39:330:39:35

This is extraordinary! And you're harvesting tomatoes in the winter!

0:39:350:39:38

-It doesn't seem right!

-No, after 35 years of conventional crops,

0:39:380:39:42

we took the plunge, invested in this set-up,

0:39:420:39:44

which enables us to grow all year round.

0:39:440:39:46

-And it's all about the lights?

-Absolutely.

0:39:460:39:48

Without the light, the crop wouldn't grow.

0:39:480:39:50

We've got a mixture of high-pressure sodium lamps -

0:39:500:39:52

these ones up the top here.

0:39:520:39:53

-High-pressure sodium lamps produce some heat.

-That's all a plant needs.

0:39:530:39:57

-I can feel the heat coming from the lamps.

-Yeah.

0:39:570:39:59

And a mixture of LED interlighting between the canopy.

0:39:590:40:02

-And that makes the difference?

-Absolutely. It gives us... It gives

0:40:020:40:05

the plant enough light to grow in the darkest months of the year.

0:40:050:40:08

They look amazing, don't they, like some sort of crazy tomato disco?

0:40:080:40:12

Yes, yeah, that's it, it is.

0:40:120:40:14

And with the lighting, does it taste any different to a summer fruit?

0:40:140:40:17

That's our aim and with this LED lighting,

0:40:170:40:20

we've got the right spectrum to target the maximum growth

0:40:200:40:24

and we're finding we're getting very similar quality and tasting fruit.

0:40:240:40:28

-Can I pick one?

-Yeah, help yourself.

0:40:280:40:32

-Lovely, shiny-looking tomato.

-Yeah.

0:40:320:40:33

Mmm!

0:40:350:40:37

-Delicious. It's really sweet.

-Really sweet, yeah.

0:40:370:40:39

Lovely, so can we take a closer look at the lights?

0:40:390:40:41

Mm, up there we got a hydraulic trolley,

0:40:410:40:43

-which can take you up to the top.

-All right, let's have a look.

-OK.

0:40:430:40:46

Goodness me!

0:40:570:40:58

-Different world up here.

-It really is. What an amazing view.

0:40:590:41:03

So this is where the flowers are?

0:41:070:41:09

That's right, yeah, this is all the new flower growth here.

0:41:090:41:11

Within a few days, you'll start to see little tomatoes forming.

0:41:110:41:15

Oh, yeah, OK.

0:41:150:41:16

And then a week later, you'll see more mature tomatoes forming.

0:41:160:41:19

-What's pollinating the flowers?

-Bumblebees.

0:41:190:41:21

-You've got bumblebees in here?

-Yeah, we've got an army of bees in here.

0:41:210:41:25

-It's wonderful, isn't it?

-Yeah, it does all the work for us.

0:41:250:41:28

You can really see the LED light shining through the crop, can't you?

0:41:280:41:32

And you're using a combination of colours.

0:41:320:41:34

Yeah, we're using a sequence of four red and one blue.

0:41:340:41:37

The red is to improve flower development

0:41:370:41:40

and the blue is for leaf development.

0:41:400:41:44

-Can we move along a bit?

-Yeah, OK.

0:41:440:41:46

This is quite exciting.

0:41:460:41:47

It's all very well not having the air miles by producing

0:41:490:41:52

the food here in the UK, but you are using a lot of energy, aren't you?

0:41:520:41:55

How do you argue against that?

0:41:550:41:57

Well, on site, we have a power plant producing heat,

0:41:570:42:01

electricity and CO2, so we're not relying on buying electricity

0:42:010:42:06

and also, together with the LED, we're already being quite efficient

0:42:060:42:10

on energy, so we're definitely heading in the right direction.

0:42:100:42:13

And what about being self-sufficient in tomatoes in the UK, then,

0:42:130:42:17

-how far off are we?

-We're way off.

0:42:170:42:18

-Yeah, we're only producing 25% of what we eat in the UK.

-Goodness me.

0:42:180:42:22

-Lots of room for growth.

-There's a massive, massive scope for growth.

0:42:220:42:25

And are we likely to see these LED lights

0:42:250:42:27

being used across other fruit and veg?

0:42:270:42:28

I think there's a massive application for soft fruits,

0:42:280:42:32

for herbs, other protected crops.

0:42:320:42:35

There is a huge scope for other crops to use it.

0:42:350:42:38

-Very exciting times ahead.

-I think it is, yeah.

0:42:380:42:40

Thank you for showing me around.

0:42:400:42:41

-It's been fascinating.

-It's a pleasure.

-Shall we go down?

-OK.

0:42:410:42:44

Now, a few weeks ago, we launched

0:42:530:42:55

the 2016 Countryfile Farming Heroes Award,

0:42:550:42:58

looking for those remarkable people

0:42:580:43:00

who embody the very best of our countryside.

0:43:000:43:03

Your hero should be someone inspirational,

0:43:030:43:06

a farmer who has gone above and beyond, or simply someone

0:43:060:43:10

whose commitment to the countryside makes us all proud.

0:43:100:43:13

If you know a farming hero, then I'd love to hear about them

0:43:130:43:16

and who knows?

0:43:160:43:18

Maybe they'll make it to the BBC's Food and Farming Awards in April.

0:43:180:43:22

But be quick.

0:43:220:43:24

Nominations close at midnight tonight,

0:43:240:43:27

so names sent in after that won't be considered.

0:43:270:43:30

Remember, if you're watching us on demand,

0:43:300:43:32

nominations may have already closed.

0:43:320:43:34

Details, including terms and conditions, are on our website.

0:43:340:43:38

Devon is a county of extremes, framed by a rugged coastline

0:43:460:43:51

and sheltered harbours.

0:43:510:43:53

Travel inland and you'll find tough moorland and lush pastures.

0:43:530:43:58

For all its beauty,

0:43:580:44:00

its harsh climate can make it an inhospitable place.

0:44:000:44:05

So, it's not surprising it takes a hardy breed

0:44:050:44:08

to survive this tough terrain of sloping, windswept fields.

0:44:080:44:14

Come on now.

0:44:140:44:15

'And hardy stock is certainly true

0:44:150:44:18

'when it comes to both local farmer John Stanbury

0:44:180:44:20

'and his flock of Exmoor Mules.

0:44:200:44:23

'His family's been farming sheep in the West Country

0:44:230:44:26

'for more than 100 years.'

0:44:260:44:27

-Whoa! Are you all right, John? How are you doing?

-Hello, Ellie.

0:44:270:44:30

-Good to meet you.

-Nice to meet you.

0:44:300:44:31

-Cor, it's grim weather up here, isn't it?

-Shocking, isn't it?

0:44:310:44:34

-It's not even raining today, though.

-No, but it's not very nice.

0:44:340:44:37

It's quite exposed, it's 1,000 foot up, north-facing,

0:44:370:44:41

-looks right into the sea.

-What about this lot?

0:44:410:44:44

How do they cope with this awful weather?

0:44:440:44:46

Well, they're a good breed to cope with the elements up here.

0:44:460:44:49

-They're a cross between the local hill breed, the Exmoor Horn...

-Yeah.

0:44:490:44:53

-..and the Bluefaced Leicester.

-Right.

0:44:530:44:55

And they combine the qualities of them both and the important one

0:44:550:44:58

for survival is the Exmoor Horn, the local breed.

0:44:580:45:00

I understand this fleece is bringing a bit of fame.

0:45:000:45:03

It is, a little bit, on a roundabout way.

0:45:030:45:05

I've got some lambs penned up if you want to come

0:45:050:45:07

and have a close look at the wool?

0:45:070:45:08

Yeah, let's check them out.

0:45:080:45:10

So, the Exmoor Mule, a cross between the local Exmoor Horn

0:45:110:45:15

and the Bluefaced Leicester, is a tough beast.

0:45:150:45:19

Bred with a thick fleece perfect for its unforgiving home,

0:45:190:45:23

but it does have a surprisingly soft side.

0:45:230:45:26

-I have a few ladies.

-Hello, ladies.

0:45:270:45:31

Oh, yeah! Once you get down in there, super-soft. That's amazing.

0:45:310:45:35

The Exmoor Horn is slightly coarser wool but there is more of it

0:45:350:45:39

while the Leicester is a fine wool.

0:45:390:45:41

So you get the best of both worlds here.

0:45:410:45:44

And it's this combination which has given John his claim to fame -

0:45:440:45:47

the Stanbury Walker.

0:45:470:45:49

How many of us can say we've had a sock named after us?

0:45:490:45:52

How did the sock come about?

0:45:520:45:54

Well, my friend John, he makes socks.

0:45:540:45:59

He asked if I kept this breed.

0:45:590:46:00

When I told him I did

0:46:000:46:01

he asked would he be able to use the wool from my sheep

0:46:010:46:05

and would he mind if he named the socks after me.

0:46:050:46:08

I said he would be all right to do that.

0:46:080:46:09

-You've got a sock named after you!

-I have, yeah.

0:46:090:46:12

-What a claim to fame!

-Yeah.

0:46:120:46:14

-And I assume you're wearing a pair, are you?

-I am.

0:46:140:46:16

-Go on, let's take a look. Prove it.

-I'll take my welly off.

-Go on.

0:46:160:46:20

Oh, yeah! They're just the ticket, aren't they?

0:46:200:46:22

What do you rate about these, then?

0:46:220:46:24

-A good combination of the two breeds.

-Yeah.

-Tough and soft.

0:46:240:46:29

Just what a farmer needs.

0:46:290:46:31

I'm going to find out how they go from this lovely fleece

0:46:310:46:33

to those socks and let you get your footwear sorted.

0:46:330:46:35

-Nice to meet you.

-Cheers, John. Yeah, you too.

0:46:350:46:37

John Arbon's been running a small-scale mill in North Devon

0:46:460:46:50

for 15 years, producing yarns perfect for creating

0:46:500:46:52

his range of socks.

0:46:520:46:55

-So this is where the sock magic happens.

-Sock magic indeed.

0:46:550:46:58

How do you go from farm to foot, then?

0:46:580:47:00

Well, what we've got here, this is the sheep's wool

0:47:000:47:03

after it's been sheared

0:47:030:47:05

but it's been washed or scoured, leave a bit of grease on there

0:47:050:47:08

-because you need a bit of softness to it.

-Oh, right.

0:47:080:47:12

What we're going to do now is open it out because it's a tangled mess.

0:47:120:47:15

-Behind me I've got an old 1950s carder.

-Hey!

-It's still going.

0:47:150:47:20

What we're going to do is run the fibre through this and as it

0:47:200:47:23

goes through a series of rollers with pins,

0:47:230:47:25

it's going to detangle it.

0:47:250:47:27

We're going to turn into what we call a sliver.

0:47:270:47:31

What's happened here is it's detangled it

0:47:310:47:33

so we can process it further.

0:47:330:47:36

-You must get a sense of the softness here when it's like this.

-Yeah.

0:47:360:47:40

Now we're going to take that to Ralph

0:47:400:47:43

and try make all these fibres that are a bit mismatched

0:47:430:47:46

nice and parallel.

0:47:460:47:47

This is Ralph. This is a gill box. All our machines have silly names.

0:47:470:47:50

They've got affectionate, silly names. Don't ask me why.

0:47:500:47:53

-I am going to ask you why. Why?

-They're almost human.

0:47:530:47:57

They're old machines and we're bringing them back to life.

0:47:570:47:59

Why have you gone for these older machines?

0:47:590:48:01

They're easier to maintain.

0:48:010:48:03

Mechanical - I can get them apart and fix them.

0:48:030:48:06

Next, the wool is combed to reduce the short fibres and then evened out

0:48:060:48:11

before arriving at this machine, called Butler, for spinning.

0:48:110:48:15

MACHINE WHIRS

0:48:150:48:16

What we are doing here is drafting the fibre, we've made into a roving.

0:48:160:48:19

We are drafting it down

0:48:190:48:20

and it's spun on to a ring and on to this tube.

0:48:200:48:22

-Can we see this one in action?

-Yeah, sure. I'll fire it up for you.

0:48:220:48:25

Go on. Here we go.

0:48:250:48:28

It's incredibly quick, isn't it?

0:48:280:48:30

Not quick enough!

0:48:300:48:32

WHIRRING DROWNS SPEECH

0:48:320:48:34

I'd love to have a go at making one of these socks.

0:48:340:48:36

-Do you think I could try?

-Yeah. We've got some yarn set up

0:48:360:48:38

on the machine. You can have a go on it.

0:48:380:48:40

I'm not much of a knitter. I like the sound of a machine.

0:48:400:48:42

-I'm sure you are.

-Which way? This way?

-Let's go this way.

0:48:420:48:45

Each sock is designed on this clever piece of kit,

0:48:460:48:50

a Victorian knitting machine.

0:48:500:48:52

What could possibly go wrong?

0:48:520:48:54

-Don't go in the wrong direction now.

-Forward.

-Off you go.

0:48:540:48:57

Gently, gently. Do I have to pull this thing?

0:48:570:49:00

There we go.

0:49:000:49:02

It is feeding the yarn into the needles as it goes round

0:49:020:49:05

and the inner tube.

0:49:050:49:07

These little levers, what do they do?

0:49:070:49:09

They are called latch needles. They're able to pull a loop

0:49:090:49:12

and slip a loop each time.

0:49:120:49:13

They used these quite a lot in the First World War

0:49:130:49:17

to knit socks at home for troops.

0:49:170:49:19

There is something quite moving about the idea of these women

0:49:190:49:23

sitting at these machines making socks for the boys in the Army.

0:49:230:49:26

-Yeah, a lot of them did.

-Why socks?

0:49:260:49:29

Well, socks... Who doesn't like a good pair of socks?

0:49:290:49:32

You put on a natural-fibre pair of socks, it's a whole different world.

0:49:320:49:36

I think these are going to be over the knee.

0:49:360:49:38

Oh, definitely. You're going for long socks?

0:49:380:49:40

I'm going for long ones!

0:49:400:49:41

I tell you what. We do a lot of standing around in cold weather

0:49:410:49:45

on Countryfile so I know someone who is going to love a pair of these.

0:49:450:49:48

Marvellous.

0:49:480:49:49

If you want to know whether you you'll be wearing thick socks, hats

0:49:490:49:52

and scarf this week, it's time for the Countryfile five-day forecast.

0:49:520:49:56

SEAGULLS CRY

0:51:050:51:08

We're in Clovelly, exploring this extraordinary little village

0:51:080:51:13

that clings to the North Devon cliffs.

0:51:130:51:16

The waters that lap at its shores

0:51:160:51:18

are some of the area's most sheltered,

0:51:180:51:20

protected from the worst of the westerly winds.

0:51:200:51:24

Thanks to this secluded position,

0:51:300:51:33

there's been a working harbour here since the 13th century.

0:51:330:51:35

At one stage, practically everybody that lived in this village

0:51:390:51:42

would've been involved in the fishing industry.

0:51:420:51:45

That changed in the 19th century, when tourism began to take hold

0:51:460:51:51

as Clovelly's main source of income.

0:51:510:51:53

But there is one man who's made it his mission to keep

0:51:550:51:59

the fishing traditions of this village alive.

0:51:590:52:02

Stephen Perham, who we met earlier, is not only the village dustman

0:52:050:52:09

and harbourmaster, he's also a sixth-generation herring fishermen.

0:52:090:52:12

Well, Stephen, it's good to see you again.

0:52:160:52:18

Now to talk about your true profession, where your heart lies,

0:52:180:52:21

as a fisherman.

0:52:210:52:22

Talk us through your year here, as a fisherman in Clovelly.

0:52:220:52:26

The main part of the fishing is the summer,

0:52:260:52:28

when we're fishing for the lobsters and we use a bigger boat for that.

0:52:280:52:31

My passion is with the herrings and the herring season

0:52:310:52:33

has finished now, that is why we're taking the nets out.

0:52:330:52:36

What is the key to catching herring?

0:52:360:52:38

These are drift nets and we shoot them on the tide out here.

0:52:380:52:41

Herring come in to the bay to breed. This is a breeding bay.

0:52:410:52:45

Sometimes you're out all day, all night.

0:52:450:52:47

It all depends on if you want to play with the moon.

0:52:470:52:50

The fish will rise to the light of the moon.

0:52:500:52:53

If the fish are playing, then you're not here very long.

0:52:530:52:55

I've been out for half an hour and caught about 2,000 or 3,000 fish.

0:52:550:52:59

And you're fishing in a very traditional way.

0:52:590:53:02

Let's talk about the boat. It has an interesting name, doesn't it?

0:53:020:53:06

She's called a picarooner.

0:53:060:53:08

The name comes from the Spanish word picaroon

0:53:080:53:10

for a sea robber, a rogue or a rascal.

0:53:100:53:13

Basically, the older fellows had bigger boats, bigger luggers,

0:53:130:53:16

and they had to wait for the tide to come in before they could get out.

0:53:160:53:19

These boats could float earlier, get out early on the tide,

0:53:190:53:23

they can get back in early and they catch the market, make more money,

0:53:230:53:27

so it was an insult.

0:53:270:53:28

-They were called the picarooners.

-The name stuck?

-The name stuck.

0:53:280:53:30

Stephen's ties to his heritage are strong.

0:53:350:53:37

Recently, he's decided to revive an old fisherman's craft.

0:53:370:53:41

He's making willow lobster pots, just like his father

0:53:410:53:44

and grandfather would have done at this time of year.

0:53:440:53:47

So these are traditional lobster pots?

0:53:490:53:52

Yeah, traditional lobster pots, withy pots.

0:53:520:53:54

As opposed to the ones that people would probably see

0:53:540:53:56

stacked up on the harbour today.

0:53:560:53:58

Here we are then at the end of the herring season,

0:53:580:54:00

in preparation for the lobster season, and this is

0:54:000:54:03

when all of this would have happened anyway this time of year.

0:54:030:54:06

Yeah. The herring fishing was finished, Christmas was over

0:54:060:54:09

so they would be out in the woods, cutting down the withies,

0:54:090:54:12

getting ready for doing this job.

0:54:120:54:14

This is very complicated.

0:54:140:54:15

You wouldn't have picked this up first go?

0:54:150:54:18

No. My father used to do it but he was left-handed so he couldn't

0:54:180:54:22

teach me how to do it. The other fishermen, Bernard, he taught me.

0:54:220:54:25

Is the idea for you to try

0:54:250:54:26

and make as many of these as possible and to try and get

0:54:260:54:29

fishermen to use them again or are those days well and truly gone?

0:54:290:54:33

Fishermen won't use these again.

0:54:330:54:35

They don't last long enough for fishermen to use them

0:54:350:54:38

but people like to buy them and put them in gardens or in pubs.

0:54:380:54:41

They're decoration. They are a beautiful thing to have.

0:54:410:54:44

The idea is to keep the craft going.

0:54:440:54:46

I haven't done this for ten years myself.

0:54:460:54:48

It's the first time I've done it for ten years. I'm giving it a go.

0:54:480:54:51

Well, if you haven't done it for ten years and you've created that,

0:54:510:54:54

I'll tell you what, that is mighty fine.

0:54:540:54:57

WAVES CRASH

0:55:060:55:09

Well, this is rather pleasant, isn't it?

0:55:140:55:16

We should end all programmes like this!

0:55:160:55:18

-Yomping... Can you believe how steep it is around here?!

-It's brutal!

0:55:180:55:22

Those cobbles, they've given you a funny walk.

0:55:220:55:24

Speaking of those cobbles, have you seen the fireplace?

0:55:240:55:27

That is something else, isn't it?

0:55:270:55:29

Given that it's chilly and next week we're doing the winter special,

0:55:290:55:32

how about these for your feet? Woollen socks.

0:55:320:55:35

-I've had a go at knitting these.

-Are these woollen socks?

-Woollen socks!

0:55:350:55:39

They are exactly a month too late for my Christmas stocking. Perfect.

0:55:390:55:43

Thank you very much indeed. As Ellie was saying,

0:55:430:55:45

next week we're going to be taking a walk on winter's wild side.

0:55:450:55:48

-Do join us. I'll see you then.

-Bye-bye.

0:55:480:55:50

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