Oxenhope Countryfile


Oxenhope

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Fair weather has flushed this land green. The hedgerows burst.

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The first hay is cut.

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And all across the fields and lanes, expectation is growing.

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This is West Yorkshire,

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a county with big country,

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and it needs it, because in a fortnight's time,

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almost the whole world are going to descend on these quiet valleys.

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And here's a clue as to why -

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one of the biggest sporting events on the planet, the Tour de France.

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And this year, it's starting off right here in La Belle Yorkshire.

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I'll be meeting the artists and farmers

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marking the event in a special way.

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HE WHISTLES

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Come on. Get them in.

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Whilst I'll be telling the story of one of our greatest-ever cyclists.

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After a while, they started letting the women ride with the men,

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and then she found out she was beating them as well.

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So, you'll be needing this then, Ellie.

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I certainly will. I'll be cycling on and off-road

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and you'll find out why in just a minute.

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-Happy biking.

-Thank you very much. See you later.

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Also tonight, Tom's looking at

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one of the most controversial issues in farming.

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Bee numbers have dropped dramatically in the last 50 years.

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So is the decision to ban one of the most widely used insecticides

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now helping their cause? I'll be investigating.

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And Adam's catching up with

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the young farmer who literally won the farm.

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Last year, I visited this beautiful place in Snowdonia

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to meet up with a Welsh young farmer

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who'd just won the keys to manage

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this rugged but stunning Welsh hill farm.

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And now I'm back again.

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Wonderful.

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Wild.

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Wuthering.

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The Yorkshire Moors have long inspired hikers

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to take to its hills,

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but it's pedal power that's set to shake up these hazy heaths.

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Because the biggest bike race of them all, the Tour de France,

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is coming.

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The opening stages of the Tour are happening here in Yorkshire.

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Stage 2 passes right through West Yorkshire,

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close to the town of Oxenhope.

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And it's not just the cyclists who'll be putting on a show.

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The locals have planned a very special Yorkshire welcome.

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If the landscape round here wasn't stunning enough,

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the fields are getting a face-lift.

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Yorkshire itself is being turned into an almighty artwork.

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Farmers and artists are getting together along the route

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to create a gigantic spectacle,

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using the hillsides as their canvas.

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The project, known as Fields of Vision,

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was the brainchild of one man - Andrew Wood.

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So how did you come up with the idea in the first place?

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One night in the pub, we sat down and said,

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"Look, we could do something on a really grand scale here."

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It's been lingering for about eight years, has this idea,

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but then when they decided the Tour de France

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was coming right to our doorstep, we just thought,

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there's never going to be a better opportunity to do this than now.

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What better way to draw people's attention to the stunning landscape

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than by kind of accentuating it,

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by putting these giant artworks in the landscape?

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And did you have an idea of what the artwork should be, at the beginning?

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Well, my original idea that I sold it to people on

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was to have a massive pint of beer.

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We were going to put it in a field and then we were going to kill it

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and it'd go brown then, so we'd have a brown pint of beer.

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And at the top, we were going to pen some sheep in

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to give it a frothy head.

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Unfortunately, because it had to be "proper artwork",

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that idea went by the wayside.

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What's been your role in all of it?

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Well, apart from kind of coming up with the idea in the first place,

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I'm leading the team that's putting the artworks

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from paper onto the pasture.

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We've used various techniques -

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covering, cutting, fertilising,

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and white-line marking, like you do on a football pitch.

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We've got to make it look like their original did,

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so that's the really tricky bit,

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to try and make sure that we do the artist justice.

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So Andrew, how was it, bringing artists and farmers together?

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They're quite a different breed, aren't they?

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As the middleman, it's been quite a challenge.

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The farmers are kind of get on, crack on and do it,

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blunt and say things as they are,

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and the artists are totally opposite to that.

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-So, er...

-Talking about concepts and visions.

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Oh, yeah. You watch the artist talking and the farmer's just there,

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raising his eyebrows and scratching his head.

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By the end, everybody seemed to be happy.

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Totally two different species.

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Today, local artist Louise Lockhart's design, The Leap,

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is being drawn into the landscape

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by who else but a bunch of cyclists?

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The idea is their tyres churn up the ground

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to mark out the image.

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There's a few of them coming a cropper here.

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It's not the easiest track in the world!

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It was really difficult, actually, to come up with a drawing

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that could be cycled in a loop

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but also fit in with the contours of this rather steep field.

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So what's the idea behind this image?

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What is it, first of all, and what's it about?

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Well, it's a big leaping woman leaping across the hillside.

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And the image is of a very free dancer.

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The bike played quite a significant role in the equality of women.

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Because its invention was the first time that women

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could just travel off on their own without being chaperoned.

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Also, you can't cycle in tight corsets and big hoopy skirts,

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so it was the first time that these corsets began to be made redundant,

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and more practical clothing was worn.

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I love the idea that this is a cycle-able image.

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Yeah, and hopefully all the tyre tracks

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from all these different people

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will create a really black, muddy line.

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It'll look like my original line drawing when it's...

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-But on a huge scale!

-Wonderful!

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I'm swapping my racer for a mountain bike

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and joining local schoolchildren to lend a wheel

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marking out the track.

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And to top it all, I'm being timed.

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BLOWS WHISTLE

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Wobbles!

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Here we go.

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I like this.

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Cycling to create art.

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Stay within the lines!

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Louise is right behind me, the artist.

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Watching me going off the lines!

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You're causing a backlog!

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We won't give her penalty points for that minor indiscretion there.

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Keep it going, Ellie!

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Yeah! Hello!

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Whoo! Done it!

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'Phew! I made it. But I'm not breaking any records today.'

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Well, I'm going to leave these guys to make their mark

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while I try and get a better view of this artwork.

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From the air.

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This is an incredible way to see the landscape of West Yorkshire.

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Just coming into view is the glorious leaping lady in full flow.

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She's...leapt into liberation.

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That's a fantastic view.

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They've really done a good job, those children,

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churning up the outline of her figure.

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SHE LAUGHS

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'Whilst Ellie is high above, I'm down on the ground,

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'meeting one of the farmers who've given over their fields.'

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'This is a land of dramatic contours.

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'High hills and steep valleys

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'make it a challenging place to keep livestock.'

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It can be pretty bleak up here in the uplands.

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The weather can get extreme,

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and in the open moorland, there's just nowhere to hide.

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So only the hardiest of breeds will do,

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including Highland cattle and traditional Swaledale sheep.

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For centuries, the shepherd and his dog

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have been etched into the very fabric of this countryside.

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But never before quite like this. Just take a look.

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This is where art and farming really come together.

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This gigantic piece is called, no surprise, One Man And His Dog.

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Like the work Ellie's just seen,

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it's the brainchild of Andrew Wood,

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cousin of farmer Miles Greenwood,

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who works this land with his son, Nathan.

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My cousin cornered me in the pub one night

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and he said, "I need a farmer as a guinea pig, and you're it."

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So I said, "Yeah, why not?"

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And...just grew from there,

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and next news, we are where we are, really, so...

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And Nathan, did you get involved in all of this?

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Yeah, I've been involved right from the start.

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I've done public speaking about the project.

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Later on, I've been helping mark out the artwork with pegs and ribbon

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before they can be put into the ground permanently.

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And presumably the field has to be

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in a place where the public can get a really good view?

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Yeah. The field's got to be on a steep valley side,

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so that each of the artworks can be viewed from the ground

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as well as from the air.

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And when this artwork finally disappears,

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are you going to miss it?

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It fades gradually over a period of a couple of weeks

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and then we repaint it and it comes back to life.

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You soon become attached to these things.

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And it's quite a special feeling, actually,

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standing in the middle of a work of art.

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Driving sheep over it yesterday, going across his head,

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and you think, "Oh, I better just..."

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Go not to rub him out.

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But, yeah, it grows on you after a while, it does.

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We're now going to attempt something that

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I don't think has been done before,

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and that is try to get those

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Herdwick sheep into the palm of that giant shepherd.

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That's the plan.

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JOHN LAUGHS

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'And volunteering to take on the task

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'is local sheepdog trainer Ian Ibbotson.'

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Hello, Ian.

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You're taking on quite a challenge, aren't you,

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bringing this artwork to life?

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How difficult is it going to be

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getting the sheep into this very small pen?

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This dog, I've only had for three weeks,

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so it could be difficult.

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But we'll work on it and be all right, I'm sure.

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-What is he called?

-Nap.

-Nap.

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The dog may be new to it,

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but you've got lots of experience, haven't you, Ian?

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Yes, I have. I've been training dogs for 30 years.

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As the chairman of the Yorkshire Sheepdog Society,

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and this is proper Yorkshire sheepdog country, I thought

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we'd have a go at it and see how we went on.

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All the very best, Ian, and to Nap.

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And as this artwork is called One Man And His Dog,

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I'm going to have a little go at doing a commentary. OK?

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So, off you go.

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And Matt Baker, eat your heart out.

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IAN WHISTLES TO DOG

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Nap is on his way. The sheep have been released.

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IAN WHISTLES SHARPLY

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Nice turn there, very nice, sharp turn.

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Heading them down towards the giant dog.

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And this is all part of Ian's plan.

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He is not taking them directly to the palm of the shepherd,

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they are going around the dog, and then they will come across

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this huge field towards the artwork of the shepherd.

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He's doing very well, this new dog.

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They want to graze on the dog, but there's no time for that,

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cos they are on the move again now.

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Nap holding them in a very neat bunch, there. Very neat.

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Sheep are obeying him totally.

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And now the sheep are progressing down the body of the shepherd,

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just outside there,

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but back in again and heading towards his hand.

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And he needs to turn her now, rather neatly,

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which he has done.

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Come on, Nap, get them in.

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Pen in!

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Well done, Nap, well done, Ian.

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Not bad for a novice.

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Could say the same for the commentator, as well.

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SHEEP BLEATS

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Now, as we all know, bees play a vital part

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in arable farming in the UK, pollinating the crops.

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But has a ban designed to protect the bees

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actually made life harder for British farmers?

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Tom has been finding out.

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TOM: Bees - tiny, unobtrusive and industrious.

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The farmer's hidden helper.

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Small maybe, but mightily important.

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Bees have a role in pollinating around a third of the food we eat,

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but there's a problem.

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Numbers appear to have been falling.

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In fact, some people reckon they've

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dropped by around half in the UK since the 1980s.

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Amongst other things,

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the finger of blame's been pointed at neonicotinoids,

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a pesticide used by farmers

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for the last 20 years on crops like oilseed rape.

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Last year, the European Commission decided the risk to bees

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from those pesticides was so great, it banned them.

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For many farmers, their big advantage was that the seeds came

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ready-coated with neonicotinoids.

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Without them, they're going to have to go back to spraying alone

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to protect against pests.

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'Bob Fiddaman has been growing oilseed rape on his farm

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'near Hemel Hampstead for more than 40 years.'

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What sort of thing are we looking for?

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Well, what we're looking for is the typical shot holing, or again, the

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leaf nibbled edge, which is the same sort of attack by the flea beetle.

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And it's that that's causing the damage.

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So you end up with a sort of shot hole there, or the nibble edge

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that we've got there.

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'Until this year, he has been using neonicotinoids to kill

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'the insects which love to feast on his crops.'

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As a working farmer, how much, if any more,

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labour do you have to put in if you're not using a seed treatment?

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Well, that's the point.

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If I'm having to spray because it's not in the seed, I will

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probably have to go back three or four weeks later and do it again.

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And that is what I dislike about the option that we are currently

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left with, with the removal of neonicotinoids,

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is the fact that I don't have that ability to be able to sit back,

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knowing that the crop is being protected through that early

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stage when I have other things that I need to get on with -

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getting land ready, getting the wheat seed into the ground,

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because that's my main cash crop.

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So what do you think about the ban?

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Wrong. Putting it bluntly.

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I think it's going to potentially do more harm than good.

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Bob's not alone.

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The restrictions mean more work for many arable farmers

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across the country.

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That's one of the reasons

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the National Farmers' Union has been trying to overturn the ban.

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We think this is a bit of a kneejerk ban on something that

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was useful to the farmer when it came to producing crops.

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It hasn't got sound science behind it and we worry,

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particularly, that it's setting a precedent where we'll lose

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a lot more of these tools

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we need in our crop production tool box.

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But if this does help bees, surely that's what you've got to put up with?

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Well, I'm not convinced it does help bees.

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And I really can't understand why

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farmers across the world - South America, North America, Australia -

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they can carry on using neonics,

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and only in this part of the world are we restricted from doing so.

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'The frustration for the NFU is that their members are doing more

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'work without conclusive proof

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'that these pesticides are harming bees in the wild.'

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But, despite their concerns, last April,

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the European Commission decided they did have enough evidence

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to justify a ban on the three most commonly used neonicotinoids.

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So, more than a year on, is the case any stronger?

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Scientists have been doing plenty of research, not just in the UK,

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but across the world, from the USA to Switzerland.

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But much of the work has been carried out in the lab.

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So what kind of places do you put your nest in, here?

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They're just tucked away anywhere where

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they're not going to get disturbed by people.

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'Professor Dave Goulson from the University of Sussex

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'is one of those doing research in the bees' natural habitat.'

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They really do sound like an angry hive in there.

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BEES BUZZ

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So, inside here,

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we've got a nice, healthy bumblebee nest.

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Why is this so important?

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There have been lots of studies in which bees have been exposed

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to these pesticides in a lab way,

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and they've been criticised,

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because, in the real world,

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bees are free to choose where they get their food.

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They might avoid areas where there are more pesticides,

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they might avoid crops that have been treated.

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And if that's so, then they might not be affected

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anywhere near as much as the lab studies have suggested.

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So, what we're trying to find out here is how much

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they are actually exposed to.

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Cos this is as close as we can get to a completely natural,

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realistic setting.

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So, see if you can suck out a little sample of...

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So, just squeeze it, insert and

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-let go and hopefully I'll get a little bit on the end.

-Exactly.

0:18:210:18:24

'But, in the outside world, others claim it's disease or

0:18:240:18:27

'habitat loss that's to blame, rather than pesticides.

0:18:270:18:30

'Dave believes it's all three.'

0:18:300:18:33

Bees face a number of stresses in the modern world.

0:18:330:18:37

There aren't enough flowers.

0:18:370:18:39

We've accidentally introduced

0:18:390:18:41

diseases from other countries to Britain.

0:18:410:18:43

And we're exposing them to pesticides.

0:18:430:18:45

And I think it's those three things together

0:18:450:18:47

that are causing them problems.

0:18:470:18:50

'But there is also credible research out there which seems to

0:18:500:18:53

'indicate that neonicotinoids are not a factor in the decline of bees.

0:18:530:18:58

'One study in France, which suggests bees aren't being affected,

0:18:580:19:03

'was carried out by Syngenta,

0:19:030:19:05

'a leading manufacturer of neonicotinoids.

0:19:050:19:08

'Dr Mike Bushell is their principal scientific adviser.'

0:19:100:19:14

The study that we've just published was a four-year study,

0:19:140:19:19

where we maintained hives of honeybees held alongside

0:19:190:19:23

treated oilseed rape and maize fields in France.

0:19:230:19:26

-Treated with?

-Treated with neonicotinoids.

0:19:260:19:29

And what has that shown you?

0:19:290:19:31

It's shown us that, when you use neonicotinoids properly,

0:19:310:19:35

they have a very low chance of causing any harm to bees.

0:19:350:19:40

And how robust is that work?

0:19:400:19:41

You'll be aware there has been some criticism,

0:19:410:19:43

for instance over the scale of it?

0:19:430:19:46

What you basically have to say is,

0:19:460:19:47

"Do these studies replicate the real situation

0:19:470:19:50

"as closely as possible?"

0:19:500:19:52

And we believe that they do.

0:19:520:19:53

'This is just one more piece of evidence in the controversial world

0:19:530:19:57

'of neonicotinoid studies, and so far hasn't affected the current ban.'

0:19:570:20:02

So, for the time being at least,

0:20:070:20:09

most farmers will have to go back to

0:20:090:20:12

the old system of spraying their crops

0:20:120:20:14

with pesticides called pyrethroids.

0:20:140:20:16

This is the pod, and then, inside here, are all be little seeds.

0:20:180:20:21

-If I can get in there.

-How's it doing this year, on the whole?

0:20:210:20:24

It's doing really well, actually.

0:20:240:20:26

'As we've heard, that's angered many farmers,

0:20:260:20:29

'but some, like Peter Lundgren,

0:20:290:20:31

'who farms near Lincoln, believe it's actually an opportunity.'

0:20:310:20:35

I am using pyrethroids,

0:20:350:20:38

but I'm using pyrethroids that have

0:20:380:20:40

a lower impact on bees and beneficial insects.

0:20:400:20:43

For the short-term, I can manage my crop without it costing me

0:20:430:20:47

financially and hopefully having a lower impact on bees.

0:20:470:20:51

A lot of farmers, though, don't agree with you,

0:20:510:20:54

and say this change is going to be costly and difficult for them.

0:20:540:20:56

What I have had to do is put more time into the management

0:20:560:20:59

of my crops, the selection of the chemicals I'm using.

0:20:590:21:02

I have to work harder.

0:21:020:21:03

But I think what we've got to do as farmers as a whole

0:21:030:21:06

is behave responsibly.

0:21:060:21:07

If we lose the bees and the farmers are implicated in the loss of bees,

0:21:070:21:11

then the loss of public trust in farmers is going

0:21:110:21:14

to cost me and every farmer in this country really dear.

0:21:140:21:17

We cannot be the generation where the bees

0:21:170:21:21

disappear from our farms and our countryside.

0:21:210:21:24

The stakes are high, yet many farmers are far from convinced that

0:21:270:21:31

using neonicotinoids rather than the older pyrethroids will have

0:21:310:21:36

this disastrous effect on bees.

0:21:360:21:40

But, with scientists divided, how will we know?

0:21:400:21:43

Surely the two-year, Europe-wide ban

0:21:430:21:46

should tell us just that?

0:21:460:21:50

Scientifically, in terms of finding out the effect of neonicotinoids,

0:21:500:21:53

how useful is this to you, the ban?

0:21:530:21:56

Well, sadly, not very.

0:21:560:21:58

Actually, in 2014, they are probably being exposed to the same levels

0:21:580:22:01

as they were in 2013,

0:22:010:22:03

because many of our autumn-sown crops

0:22:030:22:06

were sown before the moratorium.

0:22:060:22:07

So we won't expect to see any benefits for the environment

0:22:070:22:10

at all until next year,

0:22:100:22:12

which is actually the year that the ban expires.

0:22:120:22:14

And it's clearly not enough time.

0:22:140:22:17

'So, how will the European authorities

0:22:180:22:21

'know if the ban has been worthwhile?

0:22:210:22:23

'Well, interestingly, they told us that...'

0:22:230:22:26

What do you think about the way the EU are going to take

0:22:330:22:35

the decision at the end of this ban in 2015?

0:22:350:22:38

Well, what evidence are they going to use?

0:22:380:22:40

They admit themselves that they can't determine whether it's

0:22:400:22:43

been a success or failure, so what sort of policy-making is that?

0:22:430:22:46

It's just... It's from the madhouse.

0:22:460:22:49

By the end of next year, when this ban is up for a review,

0:22:570:23:01

it's very unlikely that there will be conclusive proof over

0:23:010:23:04

whether it helped bees or not.

0:23:040:23:06

So, expect a continuing tug of war between the different interest groups

0:23:060:23:11

until there is sufficient scientific evidence

0:23:110:23:14

to really deliver an answer.

0:23:140:23:17

Open fells, plunging valleys,

0:23:270:23:30

moors shrouded in mist.

0:23:300:23:33

'The dramatic landscape of West Yorkshire is robust

0:23:330:23:36

'and rugged, built for the resilient.'

0:23:360:23:39

These windswept hills were once the training ground

0:23:420:23:45

for one of Britain's greatest ever athletes.

0:23:450:23:48

From the 1950s to the 1980s,

0:23:480:23:51

one woman ruled these moors and dominated UK cycling.

0:23:510:23:55

Her name was Beryl Burton.

0:23:550:23:58

Almost unknown today,

0:24:010:24:03

this Yorkshire working mother reigned on the road and track -

0:24:030:24:08

smashing world records, gathering golds

0:24:080:24:11

and racking up both national and world titles.

0:24:110:24:15

Beryl Burton was the best.

0:24:150:24:18

For a quarter of a century, she was unbeatable over 25,

0:24:180:24:22

50 and 100 miles.

0:24:220:24:24

Beryl cycled up these hills and down these dales.

0:24:240:24:28

Unstoppable, tireless, true Yorkshire grit.

0:24:280:24:32

I enjoy going off for a day and I'll do about 80 miles

0:24:350:24:38

in the Dales, thoroughly enjoy it,

0:24:380:24:40

but I'm working hard all the time.

0:24:400:24:42

Some people say they couldn't do the amount of miles

0:24:420:24:45

that I do for training,

0:24:450:24:47

because they would be too tired,

0:24:470:24:49

but I need the miles to get speed.

0:24:490:24:51

'But how did this incredible athlete first become interested in cycling?'

0:24:530:24:57

-Hello!

-How are you doing?

0:24:570:24:58

'Here's her husband, Charlie.' Good, good.

0:24:580:25:00

Charlie, what was it that got Beryl cycling in the first place?

0:25:000:25:03

I hear it was down to you.

0:25:030:25:05

She said that when she first saw me, she thought,

0:25:050:25:07

"Oh! New boy. It's a pity that he's lame."

0:25:070:25:13

Of course, what it was, I had me cycling shoes on with the plates,

0:25:130:25:16

because I used to ride to work and change when I got there.

0:25:160:25:20

I got talking to her. She says,

0:25:200:25:22

"Oh, I'm going to get a bike like that."

0:25:220:25:26

I says, "Are you?"

0:25:260:25:29

Anyway, she got that one. So...

0:25:290:25:31

-She got your bike?

-Yes.

0:25:310:25:33

She took mine.

0:25:330:25:34

For the first few months, used to have to push her along behind,

0:25:340:25:38

because she kept dropping back.

0:25:380:25:40

And then, by the time it got into the second year,

0:25:400:25:44

she was riding with the bunch.

0:25:440:25:47

And by the third year, she was leading them.

0:25:470:25:50

After a while, they started letting the women ride with the men

0:25:500:25:55

and then she found out that she was beating them, as well.

0:25:550:25:59

If you could only use one word to describe her character,

0:25:590:26:01

what would you say?

0:26:010:26:03

Um... Determined, must be it.

0:26:030:26:07

Yes. Very.

0:26:070:26:08

To this day, she is the only woman

0:26:180:26:20

to ever break a men's competition record.

0:26:200:26:24

'I'm taking to the track named in her honour,

0:26:280:26:31

'the Beryl Burton Cycleway.

0:26:310:26:34

'Beryl's daughter Denise tells me

0:26:340:26:36

'more about her mum's competition wins.'

0:26:360:26:38

I think one of the most memorable ones is for

0:26:380:26:41

the Otley Cycling Club 12-hour event.

0:26:410:26:43

It's a time trial.

0:26:430:26:45

You're timed, it's over 12 hours

0:26:450:26:47

and you do as many miles as you can within that 12 hours.

0:26:470:26:50

-Exhausting!

-Yeah.

0:26:500:26:52

She did very well. She won, she beat the men.

0:26:520:26:55

-She beat the men?

-She beat the men.

0:26:550:26:57

She caught Mike McNamara,

0:26:570:26:59

who was the men's champion at the time.

0:26:590:27:02

I looked up the road and I thought, "It's McNamara!"

0:27:020:27:06

And I went all goosey, all the back of my neck,

0:27:060:27:09

all the hair stood up on the back of my neck.

0:27:090:27:11

And I thought, "What am I going to do?"

0:27:110:27:14

And I put my hand in me pocket

0:27:140:27:16

and I fished this little bag of liquorice allsorts out.

0:27:160:27:19

And as I caught him and rode alongside, I said,

0:27:190:27:22

"Liquorice allsort, Mac?"

0:27:220:27:24

And he said, "Ta, love!"

0:27:240:27:25

And he took a liquorice allsort and I went on me way then.

0:27:250:27:29

Mike McNamara was one of the greatest cyclists of his age.

0:27:310:27:34

But, on this occasion, he was soundly beaten by Beryl.

0:27:340:27:38

She finished nearly half a mile ahead of him,

0:27:380:27:41

smashing the men's record.

0:27:410:27:43

No woman could challenge the men like Beryl,

0:27:440:27:47

and this surprising athlete also had an unexpected training regime.

0:27:470:27:52

And didn't she have quite a physical job, as well? She had a day job.

0:27:530:27:57

She did, picking rhubarb.

0:27:570:27:59

She did weight-training, in a way, because the rhubarb was

0:27:590:28:01

great big bundles of it and you were bending down and picking.

0:28:010:28:05

What was it like for you, growing up in this cycling-mad family?

0:28:050:28:08

Well, it was normal for me. I didn't know any different.

0:28:080:28:11

Everything we did was cycling, to do with cycling.

0:28:110:28:14

So then you got the bug yourself

0:28:140:28:16

and became a competitive cyclist, too.

0:28:160:28:18

Yes, I represented Great Britain for lots of years. Yeah.

0:28:180:28:21

And wasn't that a race when you and your mum were together?

0:28:210:28:24

We raced together all the time.

0:28:240:28:25

-Your mum had this incredibly competitive spirit.

-She did.

0:28:250:28:29

She wanted to win. She wanted to be the best and she wanted to win.

0:28:290:28:33

-Even when she was competing with her daughter?

-Even me.

0:28:330:28:36

I was just another competitor. Yeah.

0:28:360:28:38

Tragically, Beryl died far too young.

0:28:400:28:43

She was on her bike

0:28:430:28:44

when a heart attack took her at the age of just 58.

0:28:440:28:48

When the Tour de France comes to Yorkshire

0:28:510:28:53

and thunders past the end of this cycle track

0:28:530:28:55

in a couple of weeks' time,

0:28:550:28:57

I'm going to be thinking about Beryl Burton,

0:28:570:29:00

probably the most successful female cyclist

0:29:000:29:03

the world has ever known.

0:29:030:29:05

'And here she comes now to win her second road championship.

0:29:050:29:09

'She crosses the line now,

0:29:090:29:10

'and Beryl Burton of Great Britain,

0:29:100:29:12

'the 30-year-old housewife from Leeds,

0:29:120:29:15

'wins her seventh gold medal.'

0:29:150:29:17

-JOHN:

-Owning and running a farm is a dream for some people,

0:29:230:29:26

but getting onto the farming ladder can be difficult.

0:29:260:29:29

Last November, Adam met Caryl Hughes,

0:29:290:29:32

who had just won a year's scholarship

0:29:320:29:34

to run a beautiful Welsh hill farm.

0:29:340:29:37

So, you're from a farming background?

0:29:370:29:39

Yep, North East Wales,

0:29:390:29:41

Llangollen-ish sort of thing.

0:29:410:29:43

So, pretty used to this terrain up there.

0:29:430:29:46

This is going to be hard work, isn't it?

0:29:460:29:47

It will definitely be hard work.

0:29:470:29:49

It hasn't been farmed for a while, so there's no tracks.

0:29:490:29:52

There's a lot of walking involved.

0:29:520:29:54

The National Trust and the Welsh Young Farmers' Club

0:29:540:29:56

run this amazing scholarship,

0:29:560:29:57

and now that 23-year-old Caryl

0:29:570:29:59

is over halfway through this scheme,

0:29:590:30:01

I'm going back to the heart of Snowdonia

0:30:010:30:04

to see how challenging it's been.

0:30:040:30:06

When I met you first, the farm was empty, there was no livestock at all.

0:30:150:30:19

And are these the ewes that I saw you buying from Arwyn, back in September?

0:30:190:30:22

Yeah, these will be the first 40 we bought.

0:30:220:30:25

-So these are...

-Oh, there we go.

0:30:250:30:27

SHE CALLS TO THE DOG

0:30:270:30:29

-And how did lambing go?

-Good.

0:30:290:30:30

We've no major issues and they all came quite good.

0:30:300:30:33

So, no, it's been a really good...

0:30:330:30:34

-And the weather was kind to us this spring?

-Definitely.

0:30:340:30:37

Anything's better than last year. So, no, it's been really good.

0:30:370:30:40

And what's the plan now? What are you doing with them?

0:30:400:30:43

So, we'll take these up now to the mountain

0:30:430:30:45

and they'll be up there then till shearing time.

0:30:450:30:48

Hopefully they will go and the ewes will teach

0:30:480:30:50

their lambs to become hefted.

0:30:500:30:52

So, they'll find their habitat on the mountain

0:30:520:30:54

and they'll stay there then and they'll

0:30:540:30:56

teach their lambs where the water is and everything.

0:30:560:30:58

And then it will pass on there from generation to generation

0:30:580:31:01

and they'll become a flock for this mountain.

0:31:010:31:04

-Is this the final gateway up onto the mountain?

-Yeah, this is it.

0:31:190:31:22

This is the gate now between here and the mountain.

0:31:220:31:24

So, we'll let them take their time up

0:31:240:31:27

and they should wander up slowly and pick their lambs up and off they go.

0:31:270:31:31

Well, that was quite a hike, but a good achievement.

0:31:310:31:34

Yes, that's it, now. The first ewes and lambs up there for 25 years.

0:31:340:31:38

It's definitely a good step forward for the farm.

0:31:380:31:40

It's a lovely site. Well done, you.

0:31:400:31:43

'On my last visit to Llyndy Isaf,

0:31:440:31:46

'Caryl was taking delivery of her very first animals from

0:31:460:31:49

'Arwyn Owen, a local farm manager,

0:31:490:31:52

'who has also been keeping a watchful eye on young Caryl.'

0:31:520:31:56

How has Caryl been getting on?

0:31:580:32:00

Oh, she's got on great, really.

0:32:000:32:02

From day to day, I tend to think she's been here for years, almost.

0:32:020:32:06

She's sort of adjusted so well to the farm, to the place,

0:32:060:32:10

that it's easy to think that

0:32:100:32:12

she's been farming here for an awful long time.

0:32:120:32:14

Whereas, in reality, it's only been a matter of seven or eight months.

0:32:140:32:17

And how well do you think the project works,

0:32:170:32:19

the idea of getting young people that sort of foot on the ladder?

0:32:190:32:21

Certainly, this year has been a great success.

0:32:210:32:24

From our perspective, it's worked incredibly well,

0:32:240:32:27

but the real measure of success, I think,

0:32:270:32:29

will be Caryl's progress from here on in.

0:32:290:32:32

Finding a hill farm to run yourself for 12 months

0:32:320:32:35

is always going to be difficult.

0:32:350:32:36

So, hopefully that experience now will stand her in good stead.

0:32:360:32:40

And I think, at the end of the day,

0:32:400:32:42

if you can run a farm like this, then I think you can run any farm.

0:32:420:32:46

'Rugged and tough hill farmers around here are hard to impress,

0:32:470:32:50

'but it seems as though Caryl has made her mark.'

0:32:500:32:53

So, you've introduced cattle to the farm now?

0:32:560:32:58

Yeah, I've got these two that have just calved in March,

0:32:580:33:00

so they've got young calves on them,

0:33:000:33:02

and there's six more up there on the mountain, just making

0:33:020:33:05

path for the sheep, really,

0:33:050:33:06

and trying to clear some of the heather and stuff.

0:33:060:33:08

-And you've chosen the Welsh Black.

-Yeah, Welsh Black.

0:33:080:33:11

I went to see Arwyn again for them.

0:33:110:33:13

But, yeah, they're a hardy breed,

0:33:130:33:14

used to living up those mountains.

0:33:140:33:16

So, yeah, the plan is to keep them up there

0:33:160:33:18

for as long as I can, really.

0:33:180:33:20

And what sort of other things have you done on the farm?

0:33:200:33:22

One of the first things to do was that mountain fence.

0:33:220:33:25

So there was four and a half kilometres of fence line to do,

0:33:250:33:27

so we carried just over a thousand posts up there by helicopter,

0:33:270:33:31

so that was an experience I'll never do again, probably.

0:33:310:33:34

So we carried them up and then we got the fencing contractor up there

0:33:340:33:37

and he's just finished now.

0:33:370:33:38

That's a huge job! Did you organise all of that?

0:33:380:33:40

Yeah, organised the contractor and the helicopter.

0:33:400:33:43

One of those things you'll probably never

0:33:430:33:45

do again on that sort of scale. So it was great.

0:33:450:33:48

And you're really getting the farm going for the future?

0:33:480:33:50

Yeah, these calves now, they will be the future,

0:33:500:33:53

the future of the herd, as well.

0:33:530:33:54

And the calves that come out of the heifers.

0:33:540:33:56

So, yeah, it's all for the future, really.

0:33:560:33:58

-Trying to build the stock up so it can carry on.

-Brilliant.

0:33:580:34:01

'Caryl has a short while left on this beautiful farm and, in September,

0:34:060:34:10

'is due to hand it over to the next lucky winner

0:34:100:34:13

'of this fantastic scholarship.'

0:34:130:34:15

You've obviously made quite a big impression on the farm,

0:34:150:34:18

doing everything you've done so far. Is it going to be hard to leave?

0:34:180:34:21

Yeah, I must admit, it's going to be quite hard, I think.

0:34:210:34:23

I've made a lot of good friends and I've met a lot of people

0:34:230:34:26

out here, and obviously, living in quite a gorgeous area, as well.

0:34:260:34:30

It's going to be hard, yeah.

0:34:300:34:32

'Well, Caryl is a real winner, and talking of winners,

0:34:320:34:35

'a few weeks ago, we revealed the three finalists of the

0:34:350:34:38

Food and Farming Awards Outstanding Farmer of the Year competition.

0:34:380:34:42

Up for this prestigious prize were cattle farmer Luke Hasell...

0:34:420:34:46

It's crazy to be feeding a beef animal that will finish off

0:34:460:34:50

at grass cereals when we can be feeding that

0:34:500:34:53

to the rest of the world.

0:34:530:34:54

We ought to bridge that gap between the consumer and the farmer

0:34:540:34:57

and tell a real story about the provenance of the food.

0:34:570:35:01

..dairy farmer Neil Darwent...

0:35:010:35:03

I think milk is a very undervalued food.

0:35:030:35:06

We're producing a great, nutritious product from cows

0:35:060:35:09

that are enjoying a great life and I want the world to know really

0:35:090:35:12

what that means to them, in terms of the value of that product to them.

0:35:120:35:15

'..and vegetable farmer Steven Jack.'

0:35:150:35:18

What's the idea behind all these different colours?

0:35:180:35:21

We all think the carrot has always been orange,

0:35:210:35:23

but it's only been orange for the last 400 years.

0:35:230:35:26

Prior to that, there were many different colours.

0:35:260:35:30

But there are different tastes, textures

0:35:300:35:33

and these are the type of ideas that

0:35:330:35:35

we are keen to get out onto the shelves.

0:35:350:35:38

'At the beginning of May, after much deliberation,

0:35:380:35:41

'a winner was chosen from the three finalists, and I had

0:35:410:35:44

'the honour of awarding the prize at a special ceremony held in Bristol.'

0:35:440:35:48

The winner is our dairy farmer, Neil Darwent.

0:35:480:35:51

APPLAUSE

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There were 100,000 dairy farmers in the UK in 1970.

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Today, there are only 10,000 left.

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But, believe me, we are still trying out there

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to produce a great product.

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Thank you very much for all the support this

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award is going to give us.

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'Congratulations to Neil. I hope he goes from strength to strength.

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'And I'm really looking forward to next year's competition.'

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JOHN: West Yorkshire.

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Open moorland, undulating hills,

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mill towns and beautiful valleys.

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And how about this for a spectacular vista?

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Cragg Vale.

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It's a landscape much-loved by artists, photographers

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and bird-watchers, but don't be deceived by its beauty.

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There's a beast lurking within.

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And this is it.

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The longest continuous hill climb in England,

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making it perfect for the Tour de France.

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The Cragg Vale hill isn't going to be the toughest one that the riders

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have to face, but it is certainly one of the most dramatic.

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To find out just how challenging it is,

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I'm catching up with local cyclist Jane O'Neil.

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She's been taking on this hill for years.

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Come on, Jane!

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So, this is the toughest bit of the climb,

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but it's really worth all the effort,

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because once you get to the top, the views are absolutely amazing.

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The hill climbs nearly 1,000 feet,

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or 305m, in less than six miles,

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so I'm glad that I'm already at the top.

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-Hello, Jane.

-Hello.

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Well, to me, that looked like really hard work.

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Well, it's not that bad, really, once you get used to it.

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A bit of a climb in places.

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How many times do you reckon you've pedalled up that hill?

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Several hundred, at least.

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Sometimes it feels like thousands, on a bad day.

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But what's it like when it is really bleak up here?

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Well, you get some amazing weather up here.

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We can have really strong headwinds.

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It's fine when the wind is behind you,

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but sometimes if it's in your face...

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-I've been blown off my bike once.

-Really?

-Yeah.

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And then the water can come flying over from the reservoir,

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so you can get a good soaking on a really bad day.

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So, why do you do it?

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I love it. I just love cycling

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and there's nothing better than getting

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right up here to this amazing scenery

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and having a sense of achievement.

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And how long does it take you to pedal up?

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I think my average is probably about 50 minutes.

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I think 43 is the best I've ever done.

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Some people have done it in 16 minutes.

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So that's probably what the Tour de France cyclists

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are going to be doing.

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Yeah, I think I read somewhere they're aiming for about 15 minutes.

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What's the best bit of this hill?

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-Going back down again?

-Yeah, probably.

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THEY LAUGH

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As well as being a keen cyclist,

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Jane is also a skilled artist in glass.

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But she only started drawing

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when she heard the Tour was coming to Yorkshire.

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Now, she's turning her images of matchstick cyclists pedalling

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through some of the highlights of the route into glass miniatures.

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We've just been to the top there, haven't we?

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This is Cragg Vale,

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with the Tour de France cyclists

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about to go up to the top of it.

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That's right. And the Robin Hood pub, which I cycled past.

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Well, this Tour de France has really inspired you as an artist, hasn't it?

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It certainly has, John.

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I just love this area, and I've cycled

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so many of the routes that are going

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to be on this year's Tour de France.

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How do you actually transfer this drawing onto the glass coasters

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and other glass work that you do?

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-Well, I get the images printed with glass enamels.

-Like transfers?

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Like transfers. And they go onto squares of glass

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and they get assembled in the kiln.

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And then everything sorts of fuses together, melts together,

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so that the transfers become permanent.

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So, is that a finished coaster now?

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Well, not quite, because the unexciting bit, we need to sand

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the edges, to make sure there's no rough bits before...

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-JOHN LAUGHS

-So, we need to do that in water,

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just to make sure that we're not exposed to any of the glass dust.

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-That's it.

-Now, this all started as a hobby, did it?

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It did, yes. It was just something I was doing a few hours a week.

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But it's grown and grown and I'm enjoying it so much.

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My fantasy now is to get on my bike and cycle round the UK

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-and start drawing other areas for cyclists in it.

-Right.

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We've been exploring West Yorkshire.

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Its green dales, valleys and highways

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will soon be playing host to one of the world's great sporting events...

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..the Tour de France.

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It kicks off here in Yorkshire in a fortnight's time,

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and local people are really getting into the spirit of it.

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Earlier, we saw how farmers, artists and the local community

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have thrown their weight behind a massive land-art project.

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But it's not all supersized.

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Willow sculptor Carole Beavis has been constructing

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some rather special smaller-scale stuff.

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-Carole, these look amazing.

-Thank you.

-They're fab.

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-Where are they going to go? Are they on the route?

-They are, yeah.

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They're going to be in Huddersfield at the start of the Tour de France.

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-Have you made them all?

-No.

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No, I've been involved in the making of them all.

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I made that one by myself, and then the other ones have been made with

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the help of lots of different groups of people in West Yorkshire.

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'This gang of willow cyclists will strike an athletic pose

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'as the Tour de France thunders through Yorkshire

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'in a couple of weeks.'

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Is there anything I can do?

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-I thought you might like to do a bit of hair.

-Can you teach me?

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Right, you've cut the end here, the thicker end,

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so you just find where you want it to go and put a little bit in...

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anchor it down. There isn't really a set way of doing it.

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It's random weave.

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The only thing that can happen is if you get a really enthusiastic group,

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you might get slightly larger figures than you expected.

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This one actually hasn't got a name.

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But she's quite elegant, she looks quite acrobatic -

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I think she could be you, don't you?

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I wish! I wish I was this elegant.

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I am thrilled to be part of the tour in this willow form. It's amazing.

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Thank you.

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'Let's face it, it's the only way

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'I'm going to take part in the Tour de France.

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'But now I've got to head over the valley

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'to where John's got a message for me,

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'one he wants to shout from the hilltops, apparently.'

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On your bike!

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Eat pies!

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Drink milk!

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Read the book!

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Love life!

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Russell Brand, the man behind these big messages,

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has certainly planted Yorkshire sentiments on this hillside.

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How did this big idea come about, then?

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When we'd learned that Yorkshire had won the bid to run

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the Tour de France event, we thought we'd have a drive along the route.

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And as we were coming back, my partner, an American lady,

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suggested that we should be doing something to help celebrate it,

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something like the Hollywood sign in California.

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After a few minutes I thought,

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"Well, do you know what? We could actually do it.

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"But we won't spell Hollywood, we'll put something Yorkshire up."

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-In great, huge letters.

-Ten-foot tall. Absolutely.

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And the messages keep changing, every few weeks.

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Have you had any help in building these letters?

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As part of the project we included four local schools.

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Every letter they've built has been signed by everybody in the school.

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-Now, what have we got here?

-We've got an L,

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which is the final letter in this salutation we're putting up.

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We'll get that up there, like that.

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If we can just check that's in line...

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-And all we need now is the final little bit.

-Absolutely.

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-And here comes Ellie.

-Here it is, the final piece.

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-Let's get that in.

-Thank you.

-How's it looking?

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-Nice.

-We're going to have to stand right back.

-I think you're right.

0:44:100:44:13

Oh, John, you must approve of this.

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Yeah, how about that? "Love Yorkshire."

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-Why not?

-Absolutely. Sends a message out, loud and clear.

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Nobody's going to miss that, are they, on the day that

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the Tour de France rides by?

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No, and that big day is Saturday the 5th of July,

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for those of you wanting to see all the action.

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But that's all we've got time for from West Yorkshire.

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Next week, Countryfile is going to be in Lincolnshire.

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While I will be at an old airfield,

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finding out why it's a hit with wildlife.

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And Matt will be helping to refurbish a beautiful old windmill.

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And I'll be launching this year's Countryfile photographic competition,

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-so hope you can join us then.

-Bye-bye.

-Bye for now.

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