Lincolnshire Countryfile


Lincolnshire

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Take one vast and endless landscape and a boundless canopy of sky,

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sprinkle with farms, small towns, green fields.

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The result - Lincolnshire.

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Its very flatness made it important during wartime.

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Hundreds of airbases dotted this landscape and this runway

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once thundered to the sound of the most famous squadron of all.

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The winds that carried those wartime planes aloft also provided

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the power for a Lincolnshire's most celebrated buildings.

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Windmills grinding the flour

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that made Lincolnshire the bread-basket of England.

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But what happens when these old beauties stop working?

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That's what I'll be finding out.

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John's here to launch this year's

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Countryfile photographic competition with its theme, animal magic.

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And he'll be joined by two brand-new judges.

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But can they capture some magic of their own?

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-Can you see anything in the birch trees?

-A little bit, yes.

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The slight issue today is the heat.

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At that distance,

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there's a great sort of shimmering heat haze coming off.

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It starts to become like a mirage.

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And Adam is on the hunt for a new White Park bull.

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It's good to see a bull walking. See his action.

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See the way his legs move, make sure he is not too narrow.

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The flat white expanses of eastern England,

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where acre upon acre spreads out beneath an endless sky.

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This can only be Lincolnshire.

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It's a big county.

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The bit Ellie and I are exploring centres on Woodhall Spa.

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And I've got a date with a very special lady.

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This is Just Jane.

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She's one of just a few Lancasters still in existence.

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Now, she's no longer certified to fly

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but that doesn't stop her coming out for the occasional taxi.

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I have to say, to be sat up here, perched in the navigator's

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position, you get a sense of the most terrifying excitement.

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Lincolnshire and Lancasters are inextricably linked.

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The flat landscape of this county made it the perfect place to

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build airfields. Bases like this one at East Kirkby

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and nearby Woodhall Spa

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were just two that sprung up all over during World War II.

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And the Lancasters were the planes that made up the most

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elite squadron of them all, 617, the Dambusters.

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There can be few who have not heard that tale of bravery and ingenuity.

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Of Barnes Wallis' bouncing bomb,

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of the destruction of the dams so vital to Germany's war effort.

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Wing Commander John Bell flew on subsequent Dambuster missions.

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Now 91, John is one of the last of the squadron alive today.

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And all the more incredible

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since his job was the most dangerous of all of the Lancaster's crew.

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My position was in the front of the aeroplane.

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I was a bomb aimer and the whole of the front of the aeroplane

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that you see there was my office, including the turret, which

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was immediately above the bomb aimer's position,

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where I could stand up.

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-Now, you are obviously a big lad.

-Yes.

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So it was a struggle to get in in the first place, I would imagine.

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I was curled up in there until the time came to use the bomb sight,

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when I got on my knees and looked through the bomb sight

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and through the front panel.

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And that is using that little window at the bottom that we can see?

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That's right. You just have to ignore the flak, which was the dangerous

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part of flying through. You can't just avoid anti-aircraft shells.

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He had to fly through and hope you'll not get hit.

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As far as D-Day is concerned, you were involved in a very

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-important kind of decoy mission, weren't you?

-Yes, yes.

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That night, the night of 5th June 1944,

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we were involved in this precise navigation exercise,

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flying backwards and forwards, backwards and forwards,

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nearer and nearer to the French coast

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dropping this "window" that produced a cloud

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of aluminium strip, which blanketed out their screens so...

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The hope was that they would think that something was happening

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behind it, perhaps the invasion fleet was coming behind this cloud.

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It just gave them something else to think about.

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-What is it like for you to come back to Bomber County?

-It's great.

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Especially with the Lancaster standing here

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and hearing the engines, it brings it all back.

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And when the one from the Battle of Britain Memorial flies over,

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you can hear it coming, and your heart goes, you know what it is.

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-Yeah.

-And everybody says the same, it's that Lancaster feeling,

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-and when you are a Lancaster man, that's a lot.

-Yeah.

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This is Woodhall Spa. It's where John flew his missions from.

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'Today, it's overgrown. Nature is returning.

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'The scars of war are fading.'

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Now, it's just skylarks you can hear overhead.

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But can you imagine what this place would have sounded like,

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70 summers ago?

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RUMBLE OF AIRCRAFT FLYING OVERHEAD

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BIG BAND MUSIC PLAYS

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'To get an idea of what Woodhall Spa was like in its wartime heyday,

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'John is taking me to the pub

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'that was central to life on the base here -

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'the legendary Blue Bell Inn.'

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You'll see on the ceiling,

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a lot of signatures of men who came in here in the 1940s and afterwards

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-and left their signatures.

-Wow!

-I left mine up here.

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The proprietor, Sean Taylor,

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is also an expert on the area's aviation history.

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They had three runways -

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a main runway, 6,000 feet long,

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and two auxiliary runways, 4,000 feet long.

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And it's designed so that aircraft

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basically take off and land into wind.

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So, you've got six choices if you had a change of wind direction.

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So, you were never more than 30 degrees out of a headwind.

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Now, what is fascinating, when you look down with this

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bird's eye view, are these little patches on here.

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Just shed some light on this.

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Every single one of these circles is a parking bay for the Lancaster,

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they are called dispersal pans.

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And they are built far enough apart from each other that,

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should one aircraft on one of these suffer a direct hit

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from a German bomb, or there is an accident and a bomb

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falls off and detonates, the blast should not reach the adjacent pans.

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I seem to remember, we were quite a long way

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from around the airfield, I think we were in one of these pans here.

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-The pub, then, that's about where...

-Round about where you are, Matt.

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That's where the pub is.

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So, a drinking hole, always very close to an RAF station.

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In comparison, back in the day, what was the landlord like in here?

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I can't remember the landlord.

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They always served beer very, very quickly,

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because there was usually a throng of people, thirsty airmen,

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then the landlord would say, "Sorry, chaps, just run out of beer."

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-It would be sacrilegious of us to run out of beer nowadays.

-Oh, yes.

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Although I would say, John,

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probably one of the most common questions that is asked

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when they come to the bar is, do you serve beer at wartime prices?

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THEY LAUGH

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'It may look somewhat forlorn now,

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'but Woodhall Spa is very far from being forgotten.

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'It may have had its heyday in the war,

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'but its story began way before that.'

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Now there is a new mission to breathe new life into this

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old base, and this former runway will be transformed.

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I'll be finding out how later.

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If Kent is the Garden of England, then Lincolnshire is its farm.

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But farming on this scale has a downside.

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The intensification of agriculture has corresponded with

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a decline in our wild flowers.

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In Lincolnshire, that has meant the loss of one species of wild

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flowering plant every two years since 1900.

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I'm looking for a man.

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Careful where you tread here.

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But not just any man.

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The one I'm looking for is a few inches tall and a pale yellow.

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'Mark Schofield from Lincolnshire Wildlife Trust is helping me

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'track down this strange fellow.'

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And there's one, just here.

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Here it is, the Man Orchid.

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And the reason why it's called Man Orchid is,

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you might see little man-like shapes, with a hood for a head.

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I like it! It's really clear, actually.

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And it's an endangered species,

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that means that it is declining in numbers and in its range as well.

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And we are actually here at just one of a handful of sites

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-that are at its northernmost range in the world.

-Really?

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So, seeing one of these at all is incredibly special.

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-You should feel very privileged.

-I do!

-These are special spots.

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It's quite incredible that such a rare

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and delicate plant would set up home right next to a busy road.

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But verges like these are some of Lincolnshire's last surviving

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ancient grasslands, the best habitat for wild flowers.

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Just here, you'll see just coming into flower,

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-is a lovely flower called Lady's Bedstraw.

-Lady's Bedstraw?

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That should be on your list.

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And here is an edible plant, it's Salad Burnet,

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as the name suggests, it is quite edible,

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but if you crush those leaves and rub them between your hands,

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-that should smell like freshly sliced cucumber.

-Absolutely does.

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-Excellent.

-It deserves a Pimm's, that one. That's fabulous.

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And just in here, we can see the leaves

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and the emerging flowers of Common Bird's Foot Trefoil,

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also called Lady's Fingers, because perhaps they look like

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nail varnished fingers, just while they're still in bud.

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Haven't they got the most fantastic names, British wild flowers?

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They have.

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'These verges link together to form corridors for wild flora and fauna.

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'But Mark has got plans to add bigger spaces to this network.'

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Effectively, a lot of village greens or churchyards could be

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plugged into these biodiversity superhighways,

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supplied with the wild flowers we see here and everything that

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comes with them, including more butterflies and birdsong, too.

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'To do that, wild flower seeds are harvested

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'and either grown as seedlings for planting in chosen sites,

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'or sown directly where they will grow.

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'That is something I have been doing in my orchard.

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'So far, without much success!'

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So, what might I be doing wrong?

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Well, you might be trying to plant the wrong

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flowers into the wrong places.

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So, when you see a wild flower growing in a certain location,

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try to read what its requirements might be.

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You can buy seed, but do make sure it is of local provenance.

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It would give you a better chance

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-of them surviving if they are from somewhere local?

-Exactly.

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And you might be able to help yourself to the odd little pinch,

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not from nature reserves, because we want to protect those,

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but maybe from your local road verge, for example.

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Following the rule of not all the seeds from any one plant

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and not seeds from every plant,

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but just literally a pinch can fill a seed tray.

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'Growing seedlings, rather than just planting seeds, gives the wild

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'flowers a head start when they're used to regenerate wild places.'

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Two years ago, this churchyard looked like this,

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very neat and tidy, but not many wild flowers growing,

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so, Mark persuaded them to mow less often, and now it looks like this.

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'This churchyard is pushing up more than just daisies.

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'Musk Mallow and Meadow Cranesbill have been planted here,

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'while other wild flowers, like Common Vetch, Hedge Woundwort

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'and Yellow Rattle, have self-seeded.

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'And while this part of the churchyard is not being mowed,

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'it still needs to be kept under control.'

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There is a cheaper and more carbon-friendly option than mowing,

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that also burns a few calories.

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Scything.

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'Traditional scything is undergoing a renaissance.

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'It's the perfect way to reduce the growth in sections

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'at different times of year,

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'which encourages the whole range of wild flowers to thrive.

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'Jonathan is going to show me how it's done.'

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This looks like hard work, Jonathan!

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Well, it does take a little bit of physical exertion, Ellie.

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But I'm sure once you get started,

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you will get into the swing of things.

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I feel like I'm just tearing the grass out.

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It's not as neat as a lawn mower would be, is it?

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Well, I'm not trying to do it like a lawn mower,

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-I'm trying to behave more like a grazing animal.

-OK.

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So that I can just take the tops off.

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The flowers can regenerate themselves

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and they can continue growing throughout the season.

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'Managing green spaces like this means less fertiliser,

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'less mowing, less fuel.'

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And in this case, less means more.

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More wild flowers, more pollinating insects and more wildlife,

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and who can argue with that?

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Now, every year,

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the 12 best photos from our annual photographic competition feature in

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the Countryfile Calendar, which we sell in aid of Children in Need.

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This year, we have broken all records

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and I can reveal that phenomenal figure a little later on.

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First, here's John with details of this year's competition.

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Greenham Common in Berkshire, an extraordinary place to visit.

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For many years, it was a no-go area, a military base,

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home to an arsenal of nuclear weapons.

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It was also the site of the famous women's peace camp.

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But it's wonderful how things can turn around, and once again,

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Greenham Common has become a wilderness, a haven for life.

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So, what better place to launch this year's

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Countryfile Photographic Competition?

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The theme - we want you to get out into the countryside

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with your cameras and capture some animal magic.

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We've got two brand-new judges,

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who are no strangers to the animal world.

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Comedian and bird lover Bill Bailey,

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recently seen in the jungles of Borneo.

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I am obviously being accepted

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as part-primate!

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And zoologist Charlotte Uhlenbroek,

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familiar to many through her work with primates.

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Look at this one, he is just so magnificent!

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'Both may have seen animal magic in the jungle,

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but how will they get on in the wilds of Berkshire?'

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-Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you too.

-Bill, you, too.

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-Welcome to the judging panel.

-Thanks very much.

-Thank you.

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-And what an intriguing place to be.

-It is.

-It's great, isn't it?

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It's fascinating.

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Well, in a moment, I'm going to send you both off on a safari,

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to see what wildlife you can find here and photograph.

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Bill, you are a very keen amateur photographer.

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What does animal magic mean to you?

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I guess it's capturing something

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of the character of the animal or the creature.

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I've actually brought along a few of my snaps here.

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This is a tarsier, each eye is bigger than its brain.

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THEY LAUGH

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I know people like that!

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Yes, er, this is...

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Well, this was just on the shoot, you know,

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so he's basically got his mate to film himself,

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-he pressed record and ran round the front very quickly.

-Did a selfie.

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-That's it, this is the ultimate selfie.

-It is, yeah!

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And Charlotte, I mean,

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I don't think you'd claim to be an expert photographer, would you?

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-But...

-No, I wouldn't, I'm afraid my skills are pretty limited.

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I was asked to look through some of your previous years' calendars,

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to just show some of the pictures that I love.

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That is one which I think is just mesmerising.

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Technically, it's brilliant,

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but there is also movement and composition,

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I could have that on my wall and look at it again and again

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and again and never get bored of that picture.

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Well, I don't think we are going to find anything exotic today

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-around here, but we'll hopefully find something interesting.

-OK.

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-Let's see what we can find.

-All right.

-Best of luck, everybody.

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-Cheers.

-Thanks.

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'Greenham Common is home to an array of birds, beasts and bugs.

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'It has even got its own herd of cows.

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'On a summer's day like this,

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'it's the perfect place to capture a bit of animal magic.

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'Or so you'd think.'

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So, with your scope, can you see anything in those birch trees?

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A little bit, yes. Just a slight issue today is the heat.

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At that distance, there is

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a great sort of shimmering heat haze coming off.

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-It starts to become like a mirage. It's like a desert mirage!

-It is.

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Oh, wait a minute, there's a hotel! There's a casino!

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Wait a minute, it's people dancing round a pool!

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No, it's not, it's just a bloke walking his dog.

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Sadly, pictures of pets are not eligible for our competition,

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nor are zoo animals.

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Any images of British wildlife in captivity must be declared as such.

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The theme of animal magic is wide open to your own interpretations.

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But entries must feature either farm or wild animals,

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preferably in a rural setting.

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Whatever you decide to photograph, please do it responsibly.

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Follow the Countryside Code and take care not to disturb any animals,

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especially protected ones, or damage the environment.

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Of course, you have to find them first,

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and frankly, our brand-new judges are starting to struggle.

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See, what would be great is if a bird,

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let's say a Dartford warbler, was just to land obligingly on

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the top of the gorse bush and just sort of, you know, parade around.

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-That would be nice.

-Yeah.

-That would be great.

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-It's not much to ask, is it?

-That would be ideal.

0:18:530:18:55

So, with no luck up on the heath,

0:18:550:18:57

Bill and Charlotte are going for a change of tack -

0:18:570:19:00

the nearby woodland.

0:19:000:19:02

With time running out,

0:19:020:19:03

we've enlisted the help of wildlife expert John Hanratty,

0:19:030:19:07

but even he is having a hard time coming up with the goods.

0:19:070:19:10

So, at the moment, it's not a bad idea to look in shady places

0:19:100:19:13

on the far side of trees, because it's so warm.

0:19:130:19:17

I mean, the one thing I would say is,

0:19:170:19:19

if you're going to photograph animals, it is worth

0:19:190:19:21

finding out as much as you can about their behaviour beforehand.

0:19:210:19:25

It gives you at least a kind of smaller search area,

0:19:250:19:29

you know, what time of day, but still, there is never any guarantees.

0:19:290:19:34

This area is apparently home to a rather unusual lizard,

0:19:360:19:40

the slowworm, a limbless reptile, and Bill reckons he's just seen one.

0:19:400:19:45

I just lifted up this bit of metal here and was a slowworm under here.

0:19:450:19:51

But he's now gone, of course. He's slithered off. But he was a beauty.

0:19:510:19:59

He was probably about this big.

0:19:590:20:01

And... No, it was THIS big!

0:20:010:20:03

HE LAUGHS

0:20:030:20:04

Massive!

0:20:040:20:06

It seems like they are out of luck

0:20:070:20:10

and, then...

0:20:100:20:11

-Bill, Charlotte...

-What have you got?

-Come and have a look.

-Oh!

0:20:120:20:16

-Oh, wow!

-I've just caught...

-Oh, wow, you've got a slowworm.

0:20:160:20:20

-Beautiful.

-The colour is just stunning, isn't it? Like, metallic.

0:20:220:20:26

This one has lost the tip of its tail,

0:20:260:20:28

which is very typical for slowworms. That is why their Latin name

0:20:280:20:32

is Anguis fragilis. So, this will break off and,

0:20:320:20:35

for a few seconds after, will thrash around, to distract predators,

0:20:350:20:40

so that the slowworm can escape and the predator gets just the tail.

0:20:400:20:43

Then, the tail will partially regenerate.

0:20:430:20:46

-Let's see if we can get a quick snap.

-This could be a challenge.

0:20:460:20:50

-Oh, yeah. He's off!

-Slowworms, by name, but not by nature.

0:20:500:20:53

Beautiful. I have a feeling this shot is going to have your boot in it!

0:20:530:20:57

There you go.

0:20:570:20:59

Well, it took some time, but Bill and Charlotte

0:21:000:21:04

have finally managed to find some animal magic.

0:21:040:21:07

And now, it's your turn. From all your photographs

0:21:070:21:10

of beasts and bugs and birds, the best 12 photographs selected by

0:21:100:21:14

the judges will take pride of place in the Countryfile calendar

0:21:140:21:18

for 2015 - one for each month.

0:21:180:21:21

As always, we will have an overall winner, voted for by you,

0:21:220:21:27

our viewers. Not only will their picture

0:21:270:21:29

grace the cover of our calendar, they will also get to choose

0:21:290:21:33

photographic equipment to the value of £1,000.

0:21:330:21:37

And the person who takes the judges' favourite photo will also

0:21:370:21:40

select equipment, to the value of £500.

0:21:400:21:44

There are no prizes today, though.

0:21:440:21:48

-How did you get on?

-To be honest,

0:21:480:21:50

not that well, John! A little disappointing.

0:21:500:21:53

You did get some things, didn't you? Let's see what you did get.

0:21:530:21:56

We did see a slowworm.

0:21:560:21:59

That is slightly cheating, because it is in John's hand.

0:21:590:22:02

So, if you happen to have a trained herpetologist to hold your snake

0:22:020:22:07

for you, great! When he put it down on the ground,

0:22:070:22:10

it was very, very quick. I have just got its tail.

0:22:100:22:14

-Its head's already disappeared. It's hard work.

-Yeah, it is, isn't it?

0:22:140:22:19

Did you get any slowworm pictures, Bill?

0:22:190:22:22

I did, actually. I have got a few here

0:22:220:22:25

-with the macro lens.

-Would you like to see that

0:22:250:22:28

on your wall, in a calendar, for a month?

0:22:280:22:31

Well, I would!

0:22:310:22:33

If you want to get your picture onto Bill's wall and onto hundreds

0:22:330:22:37

of thousands of others, you'll have to enter the competition.

0:22:370:22:40

To do that, write your name, address and a daytime

0:22:400:22:43

and evening phone number

0:22:430:22:46

on the back of each photo, with a note of where it was taken.

0:22:460:22:50

Then, send your entries to...

0:22:500:22:58

It is not open to professionals and, because we are looking for

0:23:000:23:04

something original, your entries must not have won

0:23:040:23:06

other national competitions. You can send in up to three photos.

0:23:060:23:11

They must have been taken in the UK.

0:23:110:23:13

And, remember, we want hard copies,

0:23:130:23:15

not e-mailed or computer files.

0:23:150:23:17

And, I'm sorry, but we cannot return any entries.

0:23:170:23:21

The full terms and conditions

0:23:210:23:22

are on our website and you will find details of the BBC's Code of Conduct

0:23:220:23:26

for competitions there, as well.

0:23:260:23:28

The competition closes at midnight on Friday 25th July, which means

0:23:300:23:35

you have got just four weeks to send in your entries.

0:23:350:23:38

So, don't waste any time. Head out into the countryside and find us

0:23:380:23:41

some animal magic.

0:23:410:23:43

I have been exploring Woodhall Spa in Lincolnshire,

0:23:520:23:55

where the famous Dambusters were based - just one of hundreds

0:23:550:23:59

of airfields that once hummed with activity during World War II.

0:23:590:24:03

Once war was over, the base was wound up

0:24:040:24:07

and has most recently been quarried,

0:24:070:24:10

for sand and gravel. But long before those human activities,

0:24:100:24:13

there was a different kind of life here.

0:24:130:24:16

From Woodhall Station, I walked up to Tower-on-the-Moor,

0:24:160:24:20

finding on my way, bell heather, heather and fruiting spikes

0:24:200:24:24

of goldenrod. On the moor, I noticed quantities of the beautiful lichen,

0:24:240:24:29

carpet on the ground, amongst the ling.

0:24:290:24:32

Devil's-bit Scabious was in flower here

0:24:320:24:34

and beside the dry ditches, grew any amount of fern. Beautiful.

0:24:340:24:40

A remarkable glimpse of what the airfield use to be like

0:24:400:24:44

and how it is going to look again.

0:24:440:24:47

This diary, written in 1890 by Edwardian naturalist

0:24:490:24:52

Joseph Burtt Davy, is helping

0:24:520:24:55

Lincolnshire Wildlife Trust in a new restoration project.

0:24:550:24:59

It is a unique

0:24:590:25:00

glimpse into the landscape of 124 years ago.

0:25:000:25:03

To have all those species listed

0:25:030:25:06

and the way he describes the habitats,

0:25:060:25:08

to have that and say, "Right, let's grasp that.

0:25:080:25:11

"Let's take that and put that back onto the site",

0:25:110:25:14

which has had the airfield on it,

0:25:140:25:17

it's had the quarry on it, what a fantastic opportunity.

0:25:170:25:20

Already, there is a real mosaic of habitats beginning to return.

0:25:200:25:24

As well as the dry heathland areas, there are wet, muddy parts

0:25:240:25:29

and lakes and pools. Our first port of call

0:25:290:25:32

is an old quarry pit, where, just like Ellie, earlier,

0:25:320:25:35

I'm lucky to see a rare and exotic plant.

0:25:350:25:38

Look at that. That is absolutely beautiful, isn't it?

0:25:380:25:41

It's a bee orchid and, slightly unusual here,

0:25:410:25:45

in that it's more associated with alkaline soils and we think that,

0:25:450:25:48

because they brought so much limestone in, for the runways,

0:25:480:25:51

it's made the soil slightly different and the bee orchids really like it.

0:25:510:25:55

-Now, the quarrying's stopped, there we are. Fantastic.

-Yeah.

0:25:550:25:59

And talking of life, as well, I mean, look at all the damselflies.

0:25:590:26:03

They are just that beautiful... Aqua blue, aren't they?

0:26:030:26:06

The place is buzzing with activity and traditional

0:26:070:26:10

Lincoln red cattle are doing their bit to help,

0:26:100:26:13

by grazing back the scrub.

0:26:130:26:15

But some of the new arrivals are causing a bit of a headache.

0:26:150:26:19

This is the piri piri burr,

0:26:210:26:24

a massively-invasive plant that smothers everything beneath it.

0:26:240:26:28

It is thought to have been brought here in the kit bags

0:26:280:26:31

of New Zealand airmen, so Dave and his crack team of volunteers

0:26:310:26:34

are busy ripping it out, across the site.

0:26:340:26:37

To be honest, you have got 550 acres here, Dave. I mean, how widespread

0:26:370:26:41

is this and is it going to work,

0:26:410:26:44

if you are just picking it out with a pair of gloves?

0:26:440:26:46

It is widespread.

0:26:460:26:47

You can see here, the way it's invaded into the stonecrop.

0:26:490:26:51

The important point is to get it now.

0:26:510:26:54

As long as we can stop it seeding

0:26:540:26:56

and stop the burrs spreading all over the place,

0:26:560:26:58

we have got a fighting chance.

0:26:580:27:01

The burrs are a not-so-welcome reminder of the past,

0:27:010:27:05

but there is one part of the old airbase

0:27:050:27:07

that will be taking centre stage.

0:27:070:27:09

The runway, and by far the most eye-catching part of the wildlife

0:27:100:27:14

restoration project, is to restore the edges that remain.

0:27:140:27:19

Not with concrete, but with heather.

0:27:190:27:21

Once they have edged the runways with heather, the plan is to put

0:27:230:27:27

a lasting memorial to the Dambusters,

0:27:270:27:29

smack bang where the runways cross.

0:27:290:27:32

But first, they have got to find that spot.

0:27:320:27:35

We can line up the posts, get some ropes out, we can find the middle

0:27:350:27:39

-of the runway.

-Great. And we are doing it in a very technical way?

0:27:390:27:42

Technical way - bits of rope, yes!

0:27:420:27:45

-Yeah? We happy, lads?

-Yeah.

-Let me get this cone.

0:27:540:27:57

Hang on. Put the cone in.

0:27:570:27:58

'Bingo. X marks the very spot where the memorial to 617 Squadron,

0:28:010:28:07

'the Dambusters, will go.'

0:28:070:28:09

That's it!

0:28:090:28:10

-Yes, well done.

-There we are, team! Come on, lads, let's salute.

0:28:100:28:14

We need to do something.

0:28:140:28:16

Livestock farmers know that, to keep a breed strong,

0:28:210:28:26

you need to bring in new blood.

0:28:260:28:28

That is especially true for Adam's rare-breed cattle.

0:28:290:28:33

These are the little White Parks. We have got two here that are

0:28:350:28:38

about a fortnight old and one, over there,

0:28:380:28:41

that is only a few days old. We have had White Parks on the farm

0:28:410:28:45

for over 40 years. At one time, they were "critically rare",

0:28:450:28:48

with the Rare Breed Survival Trust. They are now known as "endangered",

0:28:480:28:52

which means there is between 750-1,000 cows in the country.

0:28:520:28:55

Lovely-looking animals.

0:28:550:28:57

My White Parks are thriving, but all the bulls in the herd are now

0:28:570:29:05

related to these young cows, so I've got to introduce another bloodline

0:29:050:29:09

and expand the gene pool.

0:29:090:29:10

My plan is to buy another bull at auction. Whilst I'm there,

0:29:120:29:16

I'm hoping to sell this lovely young bull, Merritt.

0:29:160:29:18

When he was born on the farm, he would have been one of about

0:29:210:29:24

12 White Park calves - half of them female, that we have retained

0:29:240:29:28

and kept in the herd, to breed, in the future.

0:29:280:29:31

And, then, half of them male.

0:29:310:29:32

And the other male calves would have been castrated and go for beef

0:29:320:29:37

and we keep the very best ones, to sell as bulls.

0:29:370:29:39

And he would have been one of the ones that stood out as a calf.

0:29:390:29:43

He has grown on well now and he will, hopefully, go to

0:29:430:29:46

another pedigree herd and go for breeding

0:29:460:29:49

and make reasonable money.

0:29:490:29:51

especially if I get you looking all smart, eh?

0:29:510:29:55

1,000, I'll say.

0:29:580:29:59

1,000. A regular breeding cow.

0:29:590:30:02

1,000, I'll say.

0:30:020:30:04

Keep coming.

0:30:040:30:05

Take 20.

0:30:070:30:09

There's a White Park sale here, but also a commercial cattle sale,

0:30:110:30:15

and all the animals will have a pen number,

0:30:150:30:17

so I've just got to take him down the alleyway now and find its pen.

0:30:170:30:20

Here's a steady fella.

0:30:210:30:23

White Park auctions are few and far between.

0:30:250:30:28

But this one's on the doorstep in Worcester, too good to miss.

0:30:280:30:32

Steady. Steady. Steady. Steady, now.

0:30:320:30:35

All the cattle have a lot number in the catalogue. He's number 25.

0:30:390:30:44

So just got to sticker on his backside there

0:30:440:30:46

so when he's in the sale ring people know which bull it is.

0:30:460:30:49

Hopefully he'll make a good price.

0:30:520:30:54

Any money I make will go towards a new bull,

0:30:540:30:57

and there's some good ones here to choose from.

0:30:570:30:59

It's good to see a bull walking, see his action.

0:31:030:31:06

See the way his legs move, make sure he's not too narrow.

0:31:060:31:09

With good quality bulls like these, choosing one is going to be tricky.

0:31:120:31:16

We're mulling over whether this bull might do us, number 23.

0:31:160:31:19

He's called Gladiator.

0:31:190:31:20

Shouldn't affect him, but I like his name.

0:31:200:31:23

I have a fair idea of what to look for in a White Park bull,

0:31:250:31:29

but it doesn't hurt to get a second or even third opinion.

0:31:290:31:33

My livestock manager Mike has a really good eye

0:31:330:31:35

when it comes to cattle.

0:31:350:31:37

And Lawrence Alderson from the White Park Cattle Society

0:31:370:31:39

is a bloodline expert.

0:31:390:31:42

Lawrence, you're expecting White Park bulls for the society

0:31:430:31:46

all over the country.

0:31:460:31:47

And you know all about the genetics of the breed as well.

0:31:470:31:50

Yes. Which is important

0:31:500:31:52

because if you're going to get better you've got to breed better,

0:31:520:31:55

and selection of bulls, the herd size,

0:31:550:31:57

very important part of that whole exercise.

0:31:570:31:59

So you know what we've been using over recent years,

0:31:590:32:02

-would any of these bulls suit us?

-Yes.

0:32:020:32:05

In fact, the bloodlines here will fit in with your historic breeding

0:32:050:32:09

very well, all three of them.

0:32:090:32:11

Well, let's have a look at the other end.

0:32:110:32:13

They're nice, aren't they?

0:32:170:32:19

Yeah, they look nice. All lined up, easy to compare as well.

0:32:190:32:22

This has certainly got a lot more beef about it, hasn't it?

0:32:240:32:26

He's a lot more rounded, isn't he?

0:32:260:32:28

And this bit here, the depth and the top of the tail down to the V here,

0:32:280:32:32

I mean, he's a little bit narrower possibly than

0:32:320:32:35

the other one over here.

0:32:350:32:37

It's quite a bit of depth here. Nice.

0:32:370:32:41

If you notice, this one stands squarely,

0:32:410:32:43

-his feet are in four corners.

-Yes.

-That's always good.

0:32:430:32:47

-Goodness me. Decisions, decisions.

-Be a hard one.

0:32:470:32:51

Must admit, I agree with Mike and like the one on the right, number 26.

0:32:510:32:55

But number 22 in the middle with the red halter is first in the ring.

0:32:550:32:59

I'm tempted.

0:32:590:33:01

Lot 22. The first of the bulls, ladies and gentlemen.

0:33:010:33:05

At 14, I'm bid. I'm bid at 20. 14. 20. 14. 15.

0:33:050:33:10

14. 18 14. 18. 1,500 bid. 20?

0:33:100:33:14

15. 20. At 1,600 bid.

0:33:140:33:17

16. 18, sir?

0:33:170:33:19

1,700 bid.

0:33:190:33:20

1,800 bid. At 18. 50 bid.

0:33:210:33:24

You're out? Top of the left as well all done then.

0:33:240:33:27

At 1,850.

0:33:270:33:29

Adam Henson - 1,850.

0:33:290:33:31

Yay, we got one.

0:33:320:33:34

£1,850 - that's not bad for a quality animal.

0:33:340:33:38

Still, I'm looking to get some of that back by selling my bull.

0:33:380:33:42

Lovely breeder's bull there for you.

0:33:420:33:44

Lot number 25.

0:33:440:33:46

By the homebred sire. Go on. 900 bid.

0:33:460:33:50

At 9.

0:33:500:33:52

At 20 if you want to go on.

0:33:520:33:54

At 920.

0:33:540:33:55

920 bid. At 920 bid.

0:33:550:33:58

The last call.

0:33:580:34:00

All done at 920?

0:34:000:34:02

No, we can't go with that.

0:34:030:34:05

That's a bit below the belt for a good stud bull like that.

0:34:050:34:08

No sale. He didn't make the reserve.

0:34:080:34:11

And next up is the bull we really wanted - number 26.

0:34:110:34:14

The one on the right, remember.

0:34:140:34:16

The reason I bought the first bull is I reckon this one

0:34:160:34:19

will go for more than I was willing to pay.

0:34:190:34:22

All done at 2,400? Not today, David, nope.

0:34:220:34:27

Well, I thought he'd sell for a lot of money,

0:34:270:34:30

but he didn't even make his reserve.

0:34:300:34:33

I've got a cunning plan to buy this bull.

0:34:330:34:35

See if you can follow this.

0:34:350:34:37

Well, I bought a bull, but he wasn't the one I wanted.

0:34:400:34:43

The one I wanted I thought was going to go for too much money

0:34:430:34:45

and he was last in the ring,

0:34:450:34:47

but he actually didn't make his reserve, so he didn't sell.

0:34:470:34:50

-You were the underbidder?

-Yes.

0:34:500:34:52

-And I paid 1,850, so your previous bid was 1,800?

-Yes.

0:34:520:34:57

David, I have a bit of plan.

0:34:570:34:59

-You didn't sell this one, how much did you want for him?

-2,500.

0:34:590:35:04

How about if you drop the price a bit on him, and I give you 2,000,

0:35:040:35:08

and Keith pays 1,800 for that one, then you've sold two bulls.

0:35:080:35:13

I get the one I really liked and Keith gets a bull too.

0:35:130:35:15

Yeah, good business.

0:35:150:35:17

Thank you very much. Cheers, Keith.

0:35:170:35:20

We'll put it all through your auctioneer, so it's all above board.

0:35:200:35:23

Everyone's happy. There we go. Good business.

0:35:230:35:26

To recap, I've just sold the bull I first bought

0:35:310:35:34

and I got the one I really wanted at a knockdown price.

0:35:340:35:37

Negotiating a sale after an auction is fine

0:35:380:35:41

provided we put the sale through the auctioneers.

0:35:410:35:44

This is our new White Park bull that we bought

0:35:480:35:50

after a bit of swapping around.

0:35:500:35:52

And I think he was the best bull that was in the market today.

0:35:520:35:55

Really pleased with him. He's got great conformation, lovely colour.

0:35:550:35:59

He's up on his feet. Smart animal.

0:35:590:36:01

And he's got a beautiful temperament as well,

0:36:010:36:03

which is really important to us on the farm.

0:36:030:36:06

There's a good boy. In you go. Have a lovely new home.

0:36:060:36:09

All in all, not a bad day's work.

0:36:120:36:14

Lincolnshire is our second biggest county

0:36:200:36:23

and much of the land is given over to agriculture.

0:36:230:36:26

Here they grow everything from potatoes to sugar beat,

0:36:280:36:32

but most all they grow cereals.

0:36:320:36:35

Wheat especially.

0:36:350:36:37

Lincolnshire really is the country's bread basket with these vast

0:36:370:36:40

expanses of land where the wind can blow uninterrupted for

0:36:400:36:44

miles and miles, and that makes it perfect for these -

0:36:440:36:48

windmills, essential if bread's your business.

0:36:480:36:52

Lincolnshire was once full of them.

0:36:520:36:56

Even today, there are more windmills in this county than in any other.

0:36:560:37:00

But none quite like this. This is Heckington Windmill

0:37:000:37:04

and what makes it special is that is has eight sails.

0:37:040:37:07

And there were only seven eight-sailed windmills ever built

0:37:070:37:10

and this one is the last one standing.

0:37:100:37:14

Four was the norm.

0:37:140:37:16

Five sails is the optimum number.

0:37:160:37:19

This windmill at Sibsey has six, not in the same showing-off league as

0:37:190:37:24

Heckington, but a fully-functioning, working windmill nonetheless.

0:37:240:37:28

And nothing's changed. The processes are just as they were centuries ago.

0:37:280:37:33

In fact, a miller from the 16th century could walk in here

0:37:330:37:36

and feel right at home.

0:37:360:37:38

It was hazardous work though, cramped spaces,

0:37:410:37:44

the air thick with flour dust and you needed to be pretty strong.

0:37:440:37:48

Back in the old days, a sack of grain weighed about 18st.

0:37:480:37:52

That's twice my weight.

0:37:520:37:54

Today, they are a mere 4st.

0:37:540:37:58

That's too much for me. I'm going to leave that one to you, Ian.

0:37:580:38:00

Over to you.

0:38:000:38:02

'Then there's the simple task

0:38:050:38:07

'of getting it all the way to the top of the mill.'

0:38:070:38:09

Up here on the fifth floor, I can pull this rope,

0:38:110:38:14

which engages a wheel and the bag comes up.

0:38:140:38:18

That's it. So now... Oh, keep coming.

0:38:180:38:21

That goes down, put that back up.

0:38:220:38:25

Got a little platform there.

0:38:250:38:26

You just pour it straight into here.

0:38:280:38:30

There it goes.

0:38:330:38:35

The grain then comes down here

0:38:360:38:39

into this

0:38:390:38:40

and then it's fed into these two millstones at just the right speed,

0:38:400:38:45

the speed of which is determined by the sails outside,

0:38:450:38:49

and there it's ground into flour.

0:38:490:38:51

'Today there's just enough wind to drive the sails,

0:38:520:38:55

'but not enough to turn the millstones.

0:38:550:38:57

'But when there is, the wheat completes its journey.'

0:38:570:39:01

Back down to the second floor where the flour is all bagged up.

0:39:010:39:05

It's lovely being in here, isn't it, and listening the sails turn.

0:39:050:39:09

It's a living building and people come up and say,

0:39:090:39:11

"What did it used to do?"

0:39:110:39:13

My answer is it still produces flour,

0:39:130:39:16

it still works and it works exactly as it did when it was built in 1877.

0:39:160:39:21

Fantastic.

0:39:210:39:23

The last miller who worked this prior to its going out of action

0:39:230:39:27

was a guy called Tommy Ward.

0:39:270:39:29

The guy loved the mill, he lived for it.

0:39:290:39:31

It's even on his gravestone.

0:39:310:39:34

Do you still get a sense of him?

0:39:340:39:35

When you're locked in the mill working on it,

0:39:350:39:37

we've heard people come up the stairs

0:39:370:39:39

when it's physically impossible for them to get in.

0:39:390:39:42

We get a whiff of the old-fashioned tobacco.

0:39:420:39:44

'The appeal of windmills really is timeless.

0:39:460:39:49

'But just a few miles from Sibsey's six-sailed beauty,

0:39:500:39:54

'time and the years have taken their toll.'

0:39:540:39:57

Heckington's eight sails are rotten, so they've called in the heavy mob.

0:39:570:40:01

I'm going to be helping out in just a moment,

0:40:010:40:04

but first here's the Countryfile weather forecast for the week ahead.

0:40:040:40:07

.

0:41:500:41:57

'We're in Lincolnshire, a county famous for its windmills.

0:42:100:42:14

'To harness the power of the wind, they need to have sails

0:42:160:42:19

'and Heckington Windmill's famous eight sails

0:42:190:42:22

'are no longer up to the job.'

0:42:220:42:24

So they're taking them down.

0:42:260:42:28

'Jim Bailey from the Heckington Windmill Trust

0:42:280:42:31

'is overseeing the work.'

0:42:310:42:33

It's a big day today, then?

0:42:330:42:34

It's a huge day for us, absolutely huge day today.

0:42:340:42:37

The old sails are coming down and new sails will then follow up

0:42:370:42:40

hopefully within the month.

0:42:400:42:41

Four years ago, our sails were condemned.

0:42:410:42:43

What do you mean "condemned"? What's up with them?

0:42:430:42:46

They're rotten.

0:42:460:42:47

Of course, they're made of wood, they're 30 years old -

0:42:470:42:49

we leave them outside, they rot.

0:42:490:42:51

OK, so they could fall off, even?

0:42:510:42:53

I'd hope not. Not today, no. That would be a bad thing to do today.

0:42:530:42:56

This is the first time that eight sails are being replaced

0:42:560:42:59

and eight new sails have been replaced

0:42:590:43:01

for the last 150 years.

0:43:010:43:03

-OK, well, you've got a busy few weeks ahead of you.

-We have.

0:43:030:43:05

OK, good luck with it.

0:43:050:43:06

'The new sails are ready to go,

0:43:090:43:11

'but the supporting structure will need renovating

0:43:110:43:13

'before they can be put up

0:43:130:43:15

'and, of course, the old sails will have to come down.'

0:43:150:43:18

Oh, wow.

0:43:210:43:23

I'm high above the ground, getting a bird's-eye view.

0:43:230:43:26

This must have been what the millwright

0:43:260:43:28

who put these sails up in the first place must have seen.

0:43:280:43:31

And what a view!

0:43:320:43:33

'Now I'm being joined by "that old millwright's"

0:43:350:43:38

'21st century counterpart, Neil Medcalf.'

0:43:380:43:40

That is quite an arrival, Neil.

0:43:410:43:43

-Hiya, there. How are you doing?

-Good, you?

0:43:430:43:46

-Yeah, not bad.

-Fantastic.

0:43:460:43:47

So this is quite a momentous day, then, really?

0:43:470:43:49

It is, yeah. Start of taking eight sails off, yeah.

0:43:490:43:53

Is there anything I can be doing to help out?

0:43:530:43:55

Yeah, if you could take the sail bolt out for us, can you, please?

0:43:550:43:59

-I've got a special spanner here for you.

-All right.

0:43:590:44:01

There you go.

0:44:010:44:02

-Don't drop that.

-There you go, don't drop it.

0:44:020:44:04

That is a serious nut and bolt there.

0:44:040:44:07

-Now...

-Pull it up to me.

-That's it.

0:44:090:44:12

What is it about this mill that allows it to have eight sails?

0:44:120:44:15

That's unusual, isn't it?

0:44:150:44:16

It is, yeah. It's a Lincolnshire thing.

0:44:160:44:18

Because they've got this cast-iron cross...

0:44:180:44:20

Is that just beneath us here?

0:44:200:44:22

-No, the black thing that you're...

-Oh, this thing?

0:44:220:44:24

That's cast iron, that is.

0:44:240:44:25

What I'm gripping on to for dear life,

0:44:250:44:27

this is the Lincolnshire cross?

0:44:270:44:28

Yeah, that's what the sails are bolted to.

0:44:280:44:30

It allows you to have as many sails as you like.

0:44:300:44:33

To start with it was just four sails, and then for some reason,

0:44:330:44:37

somebody decided they wanted an eight-sail one.

0:44:370:44:39

It was like the Ferrari of their day, I suppose.

0:44:390:44:42

-So this is proper showboating?

-It is, really, yeah.

0:44:420:44:46

Here you go, that's yours.

0:44:460:44:47

And I'll have the nut when you're finished with it.

0:44:470:44:49

That's really rusty. Eurgh.

0:44:490:44:51

-Lovely, and the washer. Thank you.

-Very good.

-OK.

0:44:520:44:55

And as a millwright,

0:44:550:44:56

it seems like quite a specialist job for 2014.

0:44:560:44:59

Do you get much work?

0:44:590:45:01

Oh, we could work seven days a week if we wanted to, really, yeah.

0:45:010:45:03

There's quite a lot of mills about

0:45:030:45:05

and not many millwrights doing it, that's the thing.

0:45:050:45:07

So how does today's work differ

0:45:070:45:08

from how they would have historically replaced the sails?

0:45:080:45:11

Well, it's obviously a lot easier. We've got cherry pickers and cranes.

0:45:110:45:15

Steve's stepped in now cos we're doing some serious work.

0:45:170:45:20

OK.

0:45:200:45:21

What will happen to all these old pieces of kit?

0:45:230:45:25

-Is that going to get used again?

-This all goes back on, yeah.

0:45:250:45:28

-Right, well, the sail's just hanging there now.

-Is it?

0:45:280:45:30

Yeah, the crane's got it.

0:45:300:45:31

We need to get out of the way so that it can come down?

0:45:310:45:34

When you're ready, yeah. I'll move out the way as well.

0:45:340:45:36

This is the moment. I'm going to duck down, just in case.

0:45:360:45:39

This is the moment she gets taken away.

0:45:500:45:52

'Seven sails later, the job's almost done.'

0:45:590:46:01

There we go - there's the final sail making its way down now.

0:46:030:46:06

It's going to look absolutely magnificent when it's finished,

0:46:060:46:09

and I can tell you something else that's pretty impressive -

0:46:090:46:11

I can now reveal for the first time anywhere tonight the grand total

0:46:110:46:15

raised by the Countryfile calendar for Children in Need

0:46:150:46:18

and that total is...

0:46:180:46:20

..which deserves an enormous thank you

0:46:270:46:29

to everybody who bought the calendar.

0:46:290:46:31

Well, that's it from Lincolnshire this week.

0:46:310:46:33

Next week, the programme will be in the Peak District

0:46:330:46:36

where John will be on the set of the BBC drama The Village

0:46:360:46:39

and Helen will be exploring the area's connection

0:46:390:46:42

with the British Raj.

0:46:420:46:43

Hope you can join us then. Bye-bye.

0:46:430:46:45

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